BTA Sys F 4

FAQs on Bulb, Bubble Tip/Rose Anemone Systems 4

Related Articles: Bubble Tip, Rose Anemones, Entacmaea quadricolor, Use in Marine Systems by Bob Fenner, Bubble Tip Anemones by Jim Black, Recent Experiences with BTA's by Marc Quattromani, Anemones, Cnidarians, Colored/Dyed Anemones,

New Print and eBook on Amazon:

Anemone Success
Doing what it takes to keep Anemones healthy long-term

by Robert (Bob) Fenner

Rainbow BTA not doing well after tangling with Bristleworm 5/1/17
I have a 29 gallon,
<Mmm; large Indo-Pacific Anemones need (much) more room than this... Too unstable...>
with 165w full spectrum led, 8 month old tank with a RBTA, one clown, one Firefish, one cleaner shrimp, one peppermint shrimp,
<Shrimps may be eaten by the Anemone in time; as well as the Firefish.>
frogspawn,
<Incompatible... too allelopathogenic w/ the Anemone>
a small maxima clam, scan,
<? Acan?>
pulse and Sinularia. Everything is doing well except the BTA.
<Losing; per the statements above>
One day about a month ago I woke up to find some bristles stuck in her. She was deflated, disc shaped, I removed the bristles and hasn't reinflated
since. She is getting smaller and eating less each day. We try to feed her krill and shrimp but she isn't really interested.
<... how small are the pieces?>
Now she has moved about a half inch closer to the light and will react a small amount when the lights are on.
Nitrates 0,
<.... sigh; all chemosynthetic life NEEDS some N, P, K...>
nitrites 0, ammonia 0, ph 8.4, temp 76.2. Is there anything I can do for her?
<Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/bubbletipanemones.htm
and all the linked files above. You've set yourself up for failure here; do educate yourself>
Thanks!
Jill
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Lighting Replacement BTA's 2/26/17
Crew,

It's been several years since I've had to write for some advice. I just can't seem to find a concise answer for my situation. Lighting is always one of those topics which gives me paralysis by analysis.
<Easy to understand w/ a bit of study... nowayears there are simple testing devices for PAR, PUR... The deal is you want to deliver oh so much photonic energy to the area of the livestock for so many hours per day...>
My current system is a 90 gal Acrylic tank (48 x 24 x 18) which is home to 4 Rose BTA's and 3 fish. It bought one BTA back in 2008 and it split, and then one of those split again.
<Oh! Or there's the good ole bio-assay... As your BTAs are living; there IS enough>
My current lighting consists of two Hang-on-Tank 150-watt Metal Halide fixtures (300 total) with 10,000K bulbs.
I also have two 55 watt power compact actinics that I use for morning and evening just for the color and effect.

My tank resides in a cabinet I built with a flip up sliding door to access the top of the tank. I had the Coral Life Hang-on-Tank fixtures on a glass tank prior to designing the cabinet for the 90 gal system. These Metal Halide fixtures are mounted to a bracket on the wall behind the tank because they did not fit the acrylic tank.
<A note for browsers to take great care w/ MHs due to their high heat production. NEED to be vented, often actively (fans) and insulated from the acrylic, wood... which they can catch on fire>
So, due to the cabinet design and flip up sliding door, I cannot hang pendants from above. One of the fixtures has broken due to age and deterioration of the plastic housing. The fixture still works so I have it "propped up". The other issue I have is with the power compacts. I bought DIY retrofit kits and have been using them for years. The company I purchased kits from also sold the bulbs and they have gone out of business. I cannot find replacement 55 watt actinics with the 4 straight pin connection anywhere.
<Mmm; call/contact Perry Tishgart at Champion re:
http://www.championlighting.com/home.php
All of that just to ask for a recommendation. I like the shimmer that the Metal halides provide.
<Are really neat>
I like the "look" of the actinics in the morning and evening. The most important issue is obviously providing the correct
amount of lighting for the BTA's.
<Yes>
I must buy something that sits on the tank since I cannot hang it from above and they do not make the same hang-on-back fixtures any more. I've been looking at LED's but really do not have any confidence that I know what I need to replace 300 watts of 10,000K Metal Halides.

I probably do not need as much light as I have, but the BTA's are doing very well so I'm very hesitant to change things. I fear that I'm on borrowed time with these fixtures and it is time to replace the bulbs. My choices seem to be LED and T5. The Metal Halides seem to be all pendant style mounts now and I can't use those.
Thanks for providing this service. I have gained much knowledge from Wet Web Media.
Mark
<Thank you for your kind words, and writing so clearly and completely Mark. Bob Fenner>
Re: Lighting Replacement BTA's 4/8/17
Hello Mark,
I've read your email and I will put my two cents in. LEDs have come a long way in the last five years, and now to a point where there are fixtures that rival 1,000 watt metal halide lamps in terms of PAR/PUR (photosynthetic usable radiation). Most aquarium LED manufacturers offer individual control of channels both in terms of intensity and programming.
Your desire to have blue lighting early morning and late evening would be no problem with most LED lighting fixtures with the added bonus of ramping up and down with the intensity.
BTA's prefer a lighting spectrum similar to what LPS/SPS coral require. A PAR/PUR of 90-120 is more than enough lighting to maintain healthy BTA's providing an ideal spectrum is provided.
There are many companies that produce LED strip lighting in the blue spectrum that were designed to supplement metal halide/HQI lighting. I would look for something in the 410-430nm range which would target the
420nm area where actinic lighting peaks. This should solve your problem with the actinic four pin tubes if you cannot locate a supplier for them.
Another option is to replace your existing fixture(s) with a single LED fixture that will give you all the features you desire and result in lowering your energy use, reducing heat, and the cost of periodic replacement of new lamps.
Have a great day Mark.
James G
*.*
james@orphek.com
Sales Consultant
Orphek LED Lighting

Bubble tip anemone tank move 7/2/13
Good afternoon,
<Eric>
2 weeks ago I moved and with that being said had to break down my 125 gallon reef and set it back up. Never a fun job but things are starting to perk back up except for my bubble tip anemone's. Over the years 1 ended up becoming 7 and they take up about 1/3 of my tank. To date only 3 have made there way out to the front of the tank. The other 4 are still hiding out
in the shade in the back of the tank. I know they are an animal and will move to where they are most comfortable but I am starting to get concerned that they will end up dying due to the lack of light.
<Mmm; no... they can/will move if circumstances require>
Will the anemones move when they are ready or should I start rearranging rock.
<I'd leave all as is>
Today has been two weeks since the new tank has been up and running.
Thanks,
Eric
<And you, Bob Fenner>

Rose Anemone, sys. 1/6/12
Hi there, I have a 180 Fowlr, slowly switching to reef tank. I have Emperor Angel, BlueLine Angel, Harlequin tusk, Naso tang, pair of tomato clowns, Moorish idol, porcupine puffer (I am thinking of getting rid of him), and some Chromis. Yes I do know they will need a new larger home in the next few years. I have been adding a few leather corals, mushrooms, and hammer corals. so far everything has been good. I keep them fed very well and seem to have no interest in the corals. I really want a rose anemone. I do know I take a risk at my fish getting ate by the anemone, but I think they are smart enough to stay away.
<Maybe if the Clowns occupy the Anemone it won't be consumed by the angels>
My problem is my closed loop for the return. They are two foot tall screens, about 3" around. I am not sure what to cover them with, without damaging the pump. I have two dolphin external pumps. They are 1/3h.p. and pump a lot water through them. Maybe to <too> much? I think just from the flow of my main system I do not need the closed loop going, because there is plenty. I would love your advise for this. Thanks!
<You'll have to just take the risk of the Entacmaea drifting up to the pumps, the Pomacanthids nibbling it, should you choose to try this Anemone.
here. Bob Fenner>
Re: Rose Anemone; sys. 1/7/13
Bob, I got the Anemone. so far so good I think. I have had my closed loop off for a few days now before I bought the anemone to observe my fish and make sure nobody would be stressing. He is deflated at the moment only been in for 15minutes or so. My question is as soon as I put it where I think it would be happy, my tomato clowns were already trying to host it. Is this alright? This my first one and I am nervous. Thank you!
<Should be. B>
Re: Rose Anemone 1/8/13
Bob, My Anemone has not expanded to his regular size yet, Should I be worried, or give it a week?
<... wait, read (all) on WWM re Entacmaea>
Temp 78, Ph 8.25, Nitrate 10, Nitrite 0, Ammo 0. My calcium is high in the 520 range. Is that my problem?
<Could well be... read re this too, as well as Mg conc., bal.... B>
Thank you for your time!
Re: Rose Anemone, Angel incomp. 1/10/13
Bob, I actually had to time to set in front of my tank and stair at it for few hours last night. Even my kids left me alone. (amazing!) My anemone problem is my BlueLine angel it nips at it,
<Not atypical... many Pomacanthids eat anemones in the wild>
Not much, but enough to where its not happy. Getting a bio cube for my new friend. I love Fowlr not willing to trade it in yet for a reef. Thank you for your time. and happy diving!
<Thanks! BobF>

BTA With Heater Burn -- 01/15/12
Hi, I just came across your site and haven't found anything on burnt anemone foots. My tank's fine (60 gal/established) and I bought a Bubble Tip Anemone 4 days ago, Mike (the anemone). Even though I blocked the intake filter, he wiggled in there, got sucked in, then the heater came on and part of his foot was damaged. I saw him stuck, unplugged the filter, and he dropped out of the intake cap on his own, but evidently his foot was still on the heater at some point in the night when it came on. I disconnected the heater and removed it from the glass, laid it on a rock and he slowly made his way off of it and onto the rock. He's already stressed from the new tank move and now he's injured. These are his photos from day 1 through the day after his burn, he's seemingly getting worse, I don't know what to do for him and at a loss, any help/advise would be appreciated.
<<Unfortunately this is not an uncommon injury when these cnidarians are housed in systems with exposed heaters'¦and one that in my experience/estimation generally results; as does most any 'foot' injury, in the demise of the anemone. There's nothing for you to do other than ensure prime water quality (along with relocating the heater to a remote sump) and waiting'¦but sadly, I wouldn't hold out that this animal will recover. And while you are waiting; if you have not done so already, please start reading here and among the associated links (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/bubbletipanemones.htm)>>
Thank you,
Michelle
<<Happy to share'¦ EricR>>
Re: BTA with Heater Burn -- 01/16/12
Thank you for your rapid response.
<<Quite welcome, Michelle>>
I've attached a few photos for your reference if anyone else could benefit from them since I couldn't find any photos of what I was looking for before taking him out of the tank.
<<Thank you for these'¦and just for future reference, please resize images to no more than a few hundred KB'¦we have a limited storage capacity re>>
Mike's out of the tank and in a hospital bucket with air and light, he pooped before I got him out of the tank and I removed everything before it did any damage to the rest of the tank. I'm keeping him in the hospital bucket in hopes that he's a strong little guy and comes back.
<<The photos would seem to tell a different tale'¦sad to say>>
I'm not getting another anemone until I have the proper equipment to protect it from the filter intake and heater - I feel awful because I thought I had it blocked from him pretty good - but alas I was wrong. Again, thank you for your assistance, it is extremely appreciated.
<<And again, happy to share'¦and condolences for your (impending) loss>>
Michelle
<<EricR>>

New Clown and Sea Anemone, Tiny tank 12/25/11
Dear WWM crew,
<Hi>
I must compliment on what a wonderful site you have.
And now moving on to the situation.
<Thanks>
My tank is roughly an 8.5gallon tank. I know its small but the LFS said that its good enough for a 1-2 fish. The LFS said that there is no need to test the water parameters for ammonia and pH for now.
<Really? I strongly disagree.>
He said just use the hygrometer and check the water temperature for 2 weeks and it should be alright.
<It usually takes about a month for a tank to cycle, but it is impossible to tell if the cycle is complete without testing for ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates. You should also be aiming for a pH of around 8.3.>
So, after 2 weeks, I put in a clown but it was bobbing its head up and down throughout the day. It developed white spots so I took it back to the LFS immediately. The LFS said to give it a bit more time and to come back a week or two later.
<White spots have nothing to do with time, it is a sign of a parasitic infection which is now in your tank.>
After cycling for 1 month, I went back to the LFS and brought home a yellow tail damsel fish and it was happy and feeding well. I figured the water quality has improved significantly. After a week I took the damsel out and let the tank remain empty (with the exception of a snail that was happily crawling around cleaning off the algae) for another week. After which I put in a clown (False percula i think) and a sea anemone (it has bulbous tips of a strange light brownish-green color).
<This tank is far too small and new to be a home to any anemone.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm
.>
When I put the clown in it was swimming around across the tank and up and down. I tossed in some sinking pellets, it ate it then spat it out repeatedly until the pellet disintegrated. I doubt it actually ate any at all. The anemone opened up and remained stationary at the bottom of the tank until I decided to rearrange the Live rocks.
<A clown that does not eat is an unhappy clown, check your water parameters.>
The sea anemone was has gone and nested itself in a cave I have built away from light. Now I know that sea anemone requires some amount of light but is it really getting enough light hiding in the dark?
<Anemones require a large amount of light, what type of light do you have on the tank?>
The clown has gone and hosted in the anemone but its just staying in that area. I tried feeding the clown but he doesn't seem to be able to find the food. It looks for scraps here and there and then spits it out.
Is this normal?
Your quite response will be greatly appreciated!
I have attached a picture for your reference.
Best regards,
Kelly
<Time to take a step back here I think. This tank is not sustainable long term in my opinion. Start taking a look here,
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/bubbletipanemones.htm , and related articles at the top of the page.>
<Chris>

... trouble

Purple Flower? (Nope'¦a Clavulariid) -- 11/24/11
Hi there, love your site!
<<Hey Julie'¦thanks!>>
I recently obtained this tank from someone and didn't get a whole lot of information on its inhabitants. I've been trying to find what this plant or coral is, turned out blue in the picture, but they're really purple, small flowers almost. Any idea?
<<Indeed'¦ Is an Octocoral'¦a Clavulariid species'¦often sold/traded under the common name of Clove Polyp. Have a look here (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clavulariids.htm ) and among the links in blue at the top of the page'¦do also search the Net in general re>>
Also since he managed to get into the frame, although a little blurry... what is the brown sun-like plant/coral in the background? Once when cleaning the tank, I bumped him with the siphon and he retracted completely into the rock.
<<Is an Aiptasia species'¦commonly considered a 'pest' anemone and generally undesirable (can proliferate explosively and damage its neighbors). Do read here (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_1/cav1i3/aiptasia_impressions/aiptaisia_impressions.htm ) and browse here and among the links as well (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/aiptasia/aipfaqs.htm)>>
My new green bubble tip anemone snuck into the picture as well. :)
<>
Thanks for your help!
Julie
<<Happy to share'¦ Eric Russell>>

Re: Purple Flower? (Nope'¦a Clavulariid), & now... BTA comp. -- 12/07/11
Thanks for the info!
<<Quite Welcome, Julie>>
Well the anemone moved there himself. But has moved a little ways away now. Could that be why he's lost his color? Being too close to the polyp?
<<That'¦or other environmental issues (e.g. -- lighting, water quality, etc.)>>
Also apologies but I'm having a hard time finding the sessile/non-sessile info on your site.
<<Mixing sessile with non-sessile inverts (though it 'can' be done in a large enough system) is generally not encouraged, especially with new/inexperienced aquarists. In fact, compatibility among Cnidarians as a whole is often overlooked or even ignored by many hobbyists, inexperienced and not. Have a read of the info at these links, and do also browse among the links provided at the top of the pages.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/bubbletipanemones.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/CorlCompArt.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm>>
Thanks!
<<Happy to share'¦ EricR>>

R2: Purple Flower? (Nope'¦a Clavulariid), BTA.... sys? -- 12/09/11
Thank you for the info.
<<Quite welcome>>
My water quality is perfect,
<<'¦?>>
and just got new lighting before I got the BTA. It is basic, so that could be a problem. Coralife T5 24W Actinic and 10K 24W daylight, cycled on and off for day and night. Fixture to bottom of the tank distance is 19 inches; he's nearer to the bottom.
<<The lighting may well be insufficient, but if the anemone is hiding and water quality is truly 'perfect''¦there is likely an issue with allelopathy or harassment from a tankmate. Or perhaps the anemone was already compromised when purchased>>
My tank is approx 8 months old, so should be established enough. It's interesting the articles say to put them under more circulated areas. That's where I placed him initially, and he moved away from there immediately and is hiding in probably the "least" circulated area of the tank.
<<If this 'more circulated' area was being directly blasted by a powerhead then yes, the anemone would not like that. Better water movement/circulation would be provided by one of the many 'propeller' pumps available for such'¦and preferably configured to provide a gyre-type flow pattern>>
Feeding 2-3 times a week, either brine or Mysis shrimp. Have a clownfish, but he hasn't discovered it yet, only had him a few days. Also, the BTA is very small, approx 1 1/2 inch base, so that may be another reason for not doing well.
<<Maybe so>>
I'm not extremely attached to the polyp, would rather have the BTA, so I may get rid of that and see how he does.
<<Do read up on/consider a system designed solely for the BTA>>
Thanks!
<<Cheers'¦ EricR>>

Your recent query on BTA lighting
Marineland PAR Chart 10/16/11

Hi Simon,
I read your response on this query regarding the Marineland LED Strip.
Lighting: Marineland LED Reef Capable- 18- White 1 watt LED's, 3- Blue 1 watt LED's. Rated 130/12700 PAR/LUX at 12'
<Really? This seems high, is certainly enough>
I'd just like to inform you that the 130 PAR at 12" can be a little misleading. If the Apogee
meter were moved just three inches off center of the fixture, the PAR level drops dramatically, down to
61. As long as the BTA was no more than 12" deep and dead center with the lighting, it likely would be enough.
Marineland does print the chart on their packaging. See attached Word document.
Cheers,
James

Re Your recent query on BTA lighting 10/16/11
Hi Simon,
<Hi James>
I read your response on this query regarding the Marineland LED Strip.
Lighting: Marineland LED Reef Capable- 18- White 1 watt LED's, 3- Blue 1 watt LED's. Rated 130/12700 PAR/LUX at 12'
<Really? This seems high, is certainly enough>
I'd just like to inform you that the 130 PAR at 12" can be a little misleading. If the Apogee
meter were moved just three inches off center of the fixture, the PAR level drops dramatically, down to
61.
<Ahhh, one of these 'blade-type' LED's - I am not a fan>
As long as the BTA was no more than 12" deep and dead center with the lighting, it likely would be enough.
Marineland does print the chart on their packaging. See attached Word document.
<Mmm, do we have the posters email address still handy? Perhaps we should forward this on to her>
Cheers,
James
<Thank you James, Simon>
Re Your recent query on BTA lighting
Hi Simon,
I'm sure the query has been deleted by now.
James
Re Your recent query on BTA lighting 10/16/11
Actually, I generally save about two day's back queries... You can search by the name, title, date, size. B
Re: Your recent query on BTA lighting 10/18/11
Have tried this... no Joy..
Simon
<Ahh, lost. B>

Rose Bubble Tip Anemone needed a home :) 10/11/11
Hello Crew,
<Hi Roxy>
Just want to start by saying that your website is awesome!
<Thanks!>
It has helped me out of a lot of questionable situations to say the least.
:) However I searched through your site as well as many others (karensroseanemones.net also very helpful) to find some topics concerning an issue that is giving me trouble and I am having no luck so I'm hoping you can help!
<Ok>
I will start with my parameters since they are the most important.
Alkalinity: dKH-12/ 225ppm CaCO equivalent <best 9-11 if you can>
Calcium: 500ppm <Too high... should be around 400>
Nitrate: 0-<10ppm
Nitrite: 0
Ammonia: 0
Phosphate: 0- 0.25ppm <A big swing.. should be to 0.01 - 0.03 ish. Are you using GFO to produce these swings?>
Salinity: 1.024 <A little low>
Temp: 78-79
Filter: Fluval U1
Lighting: Marineland Reef Capable LED,

Zoo Med Reef Sun Compact Fluorescent (10w)
I have a few tanks, 29 gallon (Still Cycling), 65 gallon (FOWLR), and 20 gallon (Seahorse Only). My friend recently gave me a Rose Bubble Tip Anemone due to a family emergency. I did not feel comfortable putting it in any of my tanks due to the fact that they are not mature enough for a BTA (I have read they need at least 6 months to a year).
<Better, yes>
Having no other choice she brought it over in a small tank (5 gallon) with the original water it has been thriving in. The tank has no substrate, it only contains the live rock it is attached to, a sexy shrimp, and a coral banded shrimp all who have lived on the same rock for over 2 months. The BTA is small (she said it was a baby), the foot is a little larger then a quarter in diameter. It has great coloring, neon pink tips with a little neon green on the base.
<Nice - one of the more expensive BTA's>
The foot it centrally attached to the rock about 3/4 of the way to the top and it is a darker pink color.
When she first brought it over it was happy, and bubbly. I fed it the following day as she instructed and it spit the tiny chopped up silverside fish I fed it. I then tried thawed bits of Mysid shrimp and still no luck.
Now being day three it doesn't look very happy.
<Stop this feeding for the minute.. the anemone may not need it>
Its tentacles have slowly deflated over the past three days and it looks droopy. Its mouth is not puckered but I don't think it is wide open either. I have also read a bout them expelling waste and acting this way but I have not seen any waste nor should it take tis long to "puff" back up. I have read not to force feed them when they are this way so each time it spit the food out I removed it from the tank to avoid polluting it.
<Good>
I did a 15% water change this morning because I was worried since it is such a small tank. In my 65 gallon tank I do have a Maroon Clown that I'm sure would love to host it but I'm afraid for its size being so small.
<This anemone is far too small to be with a Maroon IMO>
Any idea what could be going on and anything I could do or add to perk this little BTA back up?
<Mmm, correct the above, and the Maroon? My bet.>
If you need any other information or pics let me know and I will send them ASAP!
Thanks in advance for all of your help!
<Have you read here?
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/bubbletipanemone
s.htm. I would not worry too much at this juncture, is very early>
Roxy :)
<Simon ;)>
Re: Rose Bubble Tip Anemone needed a home! 10/13/11
Hello Simon!
<Hello Roxy!>
Thank you for the super fast response!!! :)
<No problem, sorry this one is a little slower.. am busy with life!>
As far as the parameters go, I am not removing the baby BTA from the original water and tank it was brought to me in, as I do not feel it will do any better in any of my tanks.
<? But it is not well, and if you did not think you could care for it why take it? You seem intelligent enough to me, I am sure you are capable>
With that said what would be the best way to go about correcting some of the existing issues? Would you recommend changing more water? I was worried because it being in such a small tank it might cause stress and take an even worse turn.
<Move the anemone to the most mature/ stable/ best system you have available>
What would you recommend to bring down the Calcium and Alkalinity/dKH?
<Likely water changes, but read here: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2002/11/chemistry>
I forgot to add that the pH is currently 7.8 (low), I was worried about bringing it up too fast to avoid stress.
<7.8 is a little low, but not worriedly so>
Is there a reason why the pH in the tank is low but the dKH is high?
<Yes - respiration (removal of O2, addition of CO2), acid introduction (faeces, decaying foods et. al), not being balanced with photosynthesis>
What would be the best way to adjust for this situation?
<Mmmm.. the usual.. reading re: pH http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-09/rhf/index.php http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/fwph,alk.htm?h=>
I'm not using any GFO at the moment in this little tank just the filter it came with and Chemi Pure Elite in the extra media spot, that is just what the test said, I'm pretty sure its closer to 0 but just in case I have a Phosphate clarifier.
<Mmm, am a little worried re: the swing you have. This is not really important for the anemone as such, but can affect other things.. some phosphate is needed but only a little>
Fixing the salinity I can handle, but what would you recommend it be for a BTA?
<1.025 - 1.026 S.G.>
My other tanks are consistently around 1.023-1.025, should I raise them too?
Filtration/Flow: Fluval U1- Internal tank filter,
<As long as you have no nitrate problems. Are you using Live rock?>
it has many adjustable flow options and 3 stage filtration. It is rated for 15 gallons.
<In the long run this anemone will need around 50 gallons, the more the merrier>
I have the U2 and U4 as well but I didn't want to take up even more room in that small of a tank if I didn't need to. Do you think this is adequate for flow?
<Probably not>
Should I add bubbles???
<Mmm, this is up to you, if you are struggling for water flow and have this option available (an air pump/ airstone) then you could, yes. This can help with pH problems also>
Lighting: Marineland LED Reef Capable- 18- White 1 watt LED's, 3- Blue 1 watt
LED's. Rated 130/12700 PAR/LUX at 12'
<Really? This seems high, is certainly enough>
(The BTA is a little higher then that currently and has not moved from the
original spot) 1305 Lumens. The Reef Sun
Compact Fluorescent (10w) is the one she gave me in the rush. Its basically a 50/50 in light bulb form. She gave it to me in a 'desk lamp' type of set up she was using temporarily.
<Ok. Have you shocked the anemone by putting it under those LED's? Cut the photoperiod on the whites to three or so hours and see what happens>
Knowing they need more light then that I added my Reef LED set up. I know they need stellar lighting and I have read the positive and negative sides of keeping reefs under LED's. So far my researching has found that these are pretty comparable to typically used reef lighting set-ups and of course LED's in the reef world is fast moving and more frequently seen. YAY for technology! :)
<Agreed, but the animals need to be gradually introduced to powerful lighting. Just sticking them under billions of photons is bound to stress them out>
As far as feeding goes, I stopped trying after the second attempt was spit out.
I am going to wait a few days and see how it goes and possibly try again. Then as my friend advised feed 2-3 times a week. Small portions until it gets a little larger and then maybe less often.

The Maroon is not in that tank; I agree it is far too small still. But I'm hoping someday (when it grows up) it will be a great host!
<Hopefully!>
And yes, when lively and bubbly it is very nice! I can see why this kind would be more expensive!
Quick update of the appearance; still small and shriveled looking, (foot is around quarter sized when inflated, currently dime size) tentacles are also still short. It is still attached to the same place it has been but there seems to be less of a hold (a little droopy instead of a firm grasp). Every once in a while when I check on it the mouth appears open. The place on the LR where it is attached is narrow and vertical so I'm not sure if it is always open or if sometimes when I look at it just looks closed because of the placement. Regardless, I have seen how its suppose to look and how it looked when she first brought it over and it is not puckered and tightly closed by any means. How long do they take to inflate, and how long can they stay this way without rising a major concern?
<This depends on whether the animal is stressed or in a natural purge cycle>
Other then the fixes you suggested (which are already being worked on), what else would you suggest me do?
<With the added info, I would place the animal in the largest/ most stable system you have and cut the lights (photoperiod) on it right down. Try to get some reasonable flow going.>
Is there anything else you would suggest me add? Is there anything else I should test the water for?
<No, just as mentioned previously>
Also I wanted to double check, I know that 5 gallons for a BTA is very small, but do you think for now it will do considering it has all its original surroundings?
<Will need 10 times this volume at least>
As you could probably already tell I want to avoid any more stress if possible and acclimating it to a not-so-ready for-BTA tank is not a good idea to avoid this IMO.
<This is your call/ judgment to make>
I will follow up with new water parameter test results soon! (When problem areas are fixed)
<No problem>
Thanks, Roxy :)
<Simon>

RBTA Help Please/Entacmaea quadricolor/Systems/Behavior/Recipe For Disaster 8/2/11
Dear Wet Web Media,
<Hello James>
First I would like to thank you for your help and splendid website.
<You're welcome.>
I have searched all over the internet and all over your site and I can't find any information in regards to my Rose Bubble Tip Anemone.
<Is the same as Entacmaea quadricolor, just a different color variation.>
To provide some background information I have a 12 gallon JBJ Nano cube.
<Much too small for this anemone.>
It has been set up for 5 months now. In it is 20lbs of live sand, 20 lbs of live rock, 6-8 Scarlet Reef Hermits, 5 Astrena <Astrea> Snails, 1 Turbo Snail, 5-6 different mushrooms, 4 different Zoa colonies, a Kenya Tree, a Duncan, a Maze Brain frag, a Brown Birdsnest frag, a small Peppermint Shrimp, A large Cleaner Shrimp, a Coral Beauty Angelfish,
<Too small a volume for this fish as well.>
and 2 False Percula Clown Fish (who host in the Duncan), and I recently added a RBTA. My wife and I were given 2 RBTA but we kept the smaller and traded the other. As far as I can tell its tentacles bubble up really well and it looks healthy, except for the fact that it is not centered on its foot, and on one side it has some purple frilly stuff coming out from the bottom and it also has yellow stretch marks on it. I know my water parameters are not the best but they are improving.
My nitrates <20,
<Too high.>
nitrite 0, alkalinity 300, ph 8.2 I acclimated the anemone for well over 2 hours, and it has attached itself to the rock near the bottom of the tank. I haven't fed it yet, but it expelled some brown pellet looking balls earlier today. I am nervous because I am still new to the hobby. I don't know if it is splitting or if it is sick. Any information would be greatly appreciated.
<Is a normal reaction when moved to a new environment. I suggest trading the BTA or find an acceptable home for it. Your system is much too small for success with this animal, and all other Cnidarians will be at risk should the BTA decide to move, and likely it will. When the BTA dies, if unnoticed, you will assuredly have a complete wipe out....not worth the risk.
Please read here. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/bubbletipanemones.htm
Thanks For all of your help!
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
James
Oops, sorry Jamie for addressing you as James. My oversight and you can call me Jamie if you would like. :-)
James (Salty Dog)

BTA Daytime Blob/BTA Health/Systems 2/7/11
<Hello Jasen>
In my 8 years of Saltwater tank setups your site has been a wealth of information. My tank is a 26 gallon bow with 72 watts of T5 lighting.
<Kelvin temperature of bulbs?>
My parameters are good except my N03 is at 20ppm. Unfortunately I have never been able to get this any lower.
<Didn't try hard enough, can be accomplished.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nitratesmar.htm>
I purchased a 5" BTA for my Ocellaris clown pair. I know the tank is small for an anemone.
<Mmm, why did you get it then?>
It spent the first two days moving around to find its spot. The last couple of day it looks like a blob with a wide open mouth.
<Not good.>
I was about to give up on it but found in the last two nights it has fully expanded and looked healthy again.
<Is good.>
In the night my light has 4 moon LEDs.
<Means nothing to a BTA.>
I am little perplexed about this BTA. I have kept Heteractis crispa and LTAs in the past in this tank and a BTA in my last 55 gallon.
<For how long?>
I am not sure if this BTA is slowly dyeing or does not like my lighting.
<Lets start by reading here.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/bubbletipanemones.htm>
Today I am going to put the top of a two liter bottle on it with some Mysis to see if it will take it.
Thanks for any help you can provide.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
-Jasen
Re BTA Daytime Blob/BTA Health/Systems 2/7/11
<Hello Jasen>
I have reduced the lighting and running only 2 of the 4 bulbs, witch <which>
is 36 watts.
<Not really enough light for your BTA.>
The BTA is nice an full during the day. I am guessing it wants lower lighting and will need to slowly acclimate it to the other two bulbs.
<Sounds like a plan but I would use all bulbs and reduce the photoperiod and then gradually increase.>
Thanks again James I will read through the links you posted for me. I am also looking to add a HOB fudge, to help with the N03.
<Sounds good. James (Salty Dog)>
Re BTA Daytime Blob/BTA Health/Systems 2/7/11
I <I'll> try your solution of the shorter photo period with all the lighting.
<Good.>
Also sorry about my poor spelling and punctuation.
<Easy enough to fix. Just copy and paste into Word and do a spelling/grammar check.
Saves us time if we do not have to correct. James (Salty Dog)>

Quadricolor Anemone Lighting/BTA Lighting 12/4/10
Dear WWW Crew,
<Hello Nick>
I have heard a great deal of controversy surrounding the lighting I am supplying my bubble tips with. You all always give such wonderful advice, I am hoping you can help me put a stop to my pondering.

I have a 90 gallon (22" from light fixture to the top of my sand-bed) tank with a 48" Orbit (575 watt) Compact Fluorescent fixture. In this tank, I have a Finger Coral that has nearly tripled in size, a very healthy Open Brain Coral, an Haitian Pink Tip Anemone <Condylactis gigantea>, a thriving green Goniopora (which my clowns have hosted for about five months now), a green bubble-tip and a rose bubble-tip (both less than 3" in diameter).
The rose bubble tip was a 'rescue' that was in very poor health; stringy legs, not eating, and shrunk from at least 2" in diameter to less than an inch when I took it.
<A bad idea "rescuing" anemones in poor health as most never recover even under expert care.>
The green nem was in an Oceanic Biocube with stock lighting (also CF) and seemed to be doing okay however, it would not eat. So, I have had the RBT in my tank for about 1 month now and while it does eat, I have not noticed much other improvement; despite 575 watts of light, it still has stringy tentacles (no bulbs). The green BT has huge bubble tips and is finally eating however, it has continued to move about my tank for the past week (since I introduced it). A lot of people have told me that Compact Florescent are not sufficient for a bubble tip...is this true?
<No. If your corals are doing as well as you state, the lighting should be more than adequate for your BTAs providing they were healthy to begin with.>
My water parameters are as follows:
Nitrates < 5ppm
Nitrites 0
Phosphates 0
Ammonia 0
Salinity 1.025
Temp 78-80
Also, I have 2 power heads (each 1075 gph) and I supplement my tank (1-2 times per week) with calcium, strontium, and iodide.
<Personally, I feel that dosing strontium is a waste of money as there have been few, if any, scientific studies of the effects of depleted strontium on organisms that most reef aquarists maintain.>
I too, feed the tank DT Phytoplankton weekly (sometimes more) and have a thriving populations of Copepods, along with a fat Mandarin Dragonet (in the tank for nearly a year now). I apologize for such a long post however, I want to be as thorough as possible. I look forward to your feedback!

Thank you,
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
~ Nick

Rose BTA And Lighting/BTA Systems 10/3/10
Dear Crew,
<Matthew>
I currently have a Rose BTA in my 30 gallon tank. The biggest I have seen him get is about 3 inches diameter. Once I stop moving so much I plan on getting a larger tank for him. This leads to my question. I have 2, 65watt CFL bulbs. One is a 10K and the other is an actinic. I have read that these lights are too blue and useless for them and a 65K would be better.
<I would go with two 10K lamps. This will provide the needed light and give the tank a better visual look than two 65W lamps although I do believe the 65Ws would provide more beneficial light for the BTA. Another more colorful approach would be to use the 65W lamps supplemented with an actinic LED strip light. Take a look here.
http://premiumaquatics.com/aquatic-supplies/EX-8010.html >
I was wondering what light would be best. Would a 4K MH be too far in the other direction?
<Yes.>
I know that this low Kelvin will make the tank look yellow compared to the 65K or 10K but I would plan on having VHO's to help with the white and blue.
<I'd consider my suggestion above. If you are planning a larger tank, I wouldn't tie up too much money
for lighting in the 30. Have you read here?
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/bubbletipanemones.htm>
Thank you for your help
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Mr. Matthew

Anemone Tank 9/28/10
Hello Crew.
<Hi Ben>
I really enjoy your website, and would like to thank you for all that you do.
<You're welcome.>
I've been involved in the hobby for about 15 years. I currently have a 30 gallon species tank that houses a pair of Maroon clowns, a Bubble Tip Anemone, a couple Emerald Crabs, a few Blue Legged Hermits and a few small mushrooms. The main goal of this tank is to house the Anemone and clowns.
It had been set up for about 4 months before the Clowns and anemone was added this past week.
<Tank is too small to house this clownfish species, they can grow to 5+ inches.>
It has about 40 lbs of live rock, a Coralife skimmer in the 20 gal sump, and 4 T5 bulbs, (2) 39watt 10k and (2) 39 watt 420nm. I took this picture of my clown hosting my Anemone and thought I would share. Feel free to use it anyway you'd want.
your fellow fish nerd,
<Thank you for sharing, Ben. and will post. James (Salty Dog)>
Ben Kunning

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