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Whether you call them Mushroom Anemones, Coral Anemones, False Corals,
even just Mushrooms, Corallimorpharians are standard favorites of reef
aquarium hobbyists worldwide; and for good reason. They’re beautiful
color and shape wise, interesting behaviorally, generally hardy, easily
propagated and readily available for a reasonable price (most). They do
have some noxious properties that can be of consequence; and we’ll have
much to state concerning this issue.
Systematics:
Mushrooms, Order Corallimorpharia are members of the Phylum Cnidaria;
the stinging-celled animals; and considered by hobby aquarists as
“corals”; though scientists only commonly label the soft corals (Order
Alcyonacea) and stony corals (Order Scleractinia) strictly as such. Some
of the group’s higher taxonomy is:
Corallimorphs appear similar to Anemones; being short-bodied
cylindrical, with bumps and/or tentacles arranged in radiating rows on
their wide oral (facing up) disc surfaces. They are narrow-columned and
lack true tentacles of the namesake Actinarians (true anemones).
Species Variety: For most Corallimorphs,
description to genus is best.
Corallimorpharia Not Usually Sold in the Trade:
Metarhodactis, with one species (M. boninensis, Carlgren,
1943); with its papilliform tentacles covering the oral disc appears
similar to Actinodiscus… but due to possessing a type of mastigophore,
and gaining larger size; the genus is definitive. Sold in Europe at
times (de Jong site); the “Elephant Ear Mushroom” gets too large for
home hobbyists; as does:
Occurrence in the Wild:
Most all Mushroom Anemones are tropical and live in shallow water
of a few to tens of meters depths; attached to hard substrates. Some are
solitary, although the majority are colonial; at times exclusively
covering large expanses of rocky reefs. Polyps are generally small; one
to two inches across; though Amplexidiscus can span more than a foot.
Conservation Status:
Mushroom species are not challenged in the wild as far as I’ve seen
first-hand and in pertinent references; but are rarely abundant. More
singular species, like Ricordeas are only found here and there; and
colonial ones like Actinodiscus are really only common in a few places.
This being stated, folks who collect them in the wild are careful to
always only take a part of what they find; realizing that in time, under
the particular conditions where they were found, these animals will
reproduce, and repopulate the area.
Captive Care Guidelines:
Mushroom Anemones are popular for aquarium use worldwide; in part due to
their hardiness and equally, their beauty. They are easy to take care of
given a few simple considerations.
Acquisition: Corallimorphs can be purchased
on-line, from stockists, and traded amongst hobbyists as friends of
clubs or “frag fests”; gatherings of reef aquarists.
Introduction: Is best done using an
intermediate isolation zone for a week or two; to assure the health of
the new specimen. Most all Mushrooms are sold attached to rock, and this
should be placed WITHOUT the shipping water in the main-display tank.
Placement: This is a very important issue; to
avoid physical and chemical mal-interaction (allelopathy), make sure and
put your Mushrooms on bommies, rock arrangements of their own. Though
some do and learn to get along with other life, it is best to keep your
Shrooms stranded on rocks of their own; not allowing them to migrate
over to other sedentary livestock.
Lighting: Corallimorphs are photosynthetic,
contain endosymbiotic Zooxanthellae, and hence require “reef” like
illumination to do well. They do celebratedly “get by” on lower
illumination than stony corals and true anemones, with PAR/PUR readings
in the few to several tens. Metallic appearing colonies do better with
PAR nearer 100.
These are spectacular organisms, particularly the “metallic” species,
under actinic/blue lighting. Very nice to have some lamps to mix in when
guests are over, and/or transitioning to night/lights off time. Flow:
In the wild, Corallimorpharians are almost always found in low-current
settings. In captivity they like the same, but will tolerate non-linear
water movement up to the point where it turns their edges up.
Feeding: As stated, ‘Shrooms are
photosynthetic organisms; deriving part of their useful energy from
conversion of carbon dioxide into sugar via light. They also feed
themselves directly, both through absorption through their tissue wall,
as well as feeding on particulates and small life; gathering them in
mucus threads that get passed to their circular mouths.
Towards the chemical needs ends you are urged to not make Nitrate
(NO3) or soluble Phosphate (HPO4) absolutely zero; and to stock your
system with some other organisms (fishes) that by their feeding will
small foodstuffs. Certainly, the best mechanism for providing nutrition
to your system all the way around is to have a tied in “living sump”,
i.e., a refugium with a Deep Sand Bed; a space where various micro-and
macro-organisms can populate and contribute to this function.
Compatibility: As noted in the genera/species
review, there are some Corallimorphs capable of capturing and consuming
small fishes. What is more concerning is this group’s capacity for
chemical allelopathy. Along with some Zoanthids, soft and stony corals;
Mushrooms, if and when “upset” can release toxic chemicals and slime
that can trigger breakdown of other life present. How to avoid such
overt situations is simple: Maintain an optimized, stable environment;
and isolate probable contenders on their own real estate.
Though they should not be placed adjacent to other Cnidarian groups,
some Mushrooms (especially of the genus Actinodiscus) get along with
other Corallimorphs of the same genus.
Propagation: Mushrooms are amongst the easiest
of Cnidarians to propagate. With the exception of Ricordeas, most
Mushrooms are quick growers, readily split (fission) or leave a piece
behind (pedal laceration) when they move. The Order does reproduce
asexually in the wild as well as sexually.
As with fragging Zoanthids, you are cautioned to be extra careful when
handling; especially cutting Corallimorpharians. Their slime contains
some noxious chemicals so by all means DO wear long-sleeve shirt, gloves
and eye protection. Larger pieces, cuts through the mouth are best,
result in higher rates of survival and faster recovery. Cuttings can be
acrylate secured to hard substrate, placed directly on same in calm
settings. DO take care to do all handling, cutting OUTSIDE your
main/display, and allow the cuttings to convalesce in an isolated
system. TAKE CARE to discard any water that has been used in the
fragging process; and of course, clean your cutting tools thoroughly and
allow to air dry.
Health:
The vast majority of disease issues with these animals are environmental
in nature. Like all Cnidarian life in captivity, they require high and
stable pH, adequate alkalinity, sufficient biomineral content…
Cloze:
Mushroom Anemones have a great deal going for them; requiring little
specialized care, being appealing in appearance and available in many
colors, patterns and textures, and being aquarium-hardy. Their one
downside, and it can be important, is their penchant for over-population
and allelopathy. Confine yours to designated rock formations, and do
your best to not offend them physically, chemically or biologically;
especially if you’re trying your hand at asexual fragmenting them to
make more. Much better to provide propitious conditions and be patient;
even slow-growing varieties like Ricordeas will split and make more of
them in time. |
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