Tetra sudden illness 3/4/19
Howdy,
<Doody,>
We’ve a 29 gal tank we clean & test weekly. Normal ranges. 5 Serpae tetras, 3
other tetras (silver?) a loach and a Pleco. been with us 2+ years with no
problems. Everyone ELSE is fine.
<Cool.>
Between yesterday morning roll call and today’s, this Serpae tetra went ghost
pale, floating weird a la swim bladder, and I think he/she looks bloated. Wedged
itself into plant leaves. And stopped moving & swimming. Infrequent breathing.
Any ideas on illness?
<Hard to say. Small tetras sometimes contract diseases that are all very similar
in appearance (lethargy, loss of colour, disinterest in food, perhaps social
behaviour oddities like leaving the group and hiding instead). In some cases
they are bacterial, in others microbes of other types, like Pleistophora. In all
honesty, with these very small fishes, it's often best to simply euthanise to
reduce the risk of cross-infection. Clove Oil does the job nicely.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/euthanasia.htm
Serpae Tetras are generally very tough, legendarily so, though they are also
notoriously nippy towards other fish and aggressive towards their own kind,
especially when feeding. There are some lookalike species (such as Ember Tetras)
that aren't nearly so tough, and don't handle hard water (for example) as long
as Serpae Tetras. So I'd keep an open mind in that direction, too. Cheers,
Neale.>
|
|
Minor Serpae Tetra fin rot? 11/2/14
Greetings. I have a 55-gallon aquarium that we set up 2 years ago & has
been stable and disease-free. Water parameters are: ammonia = 0, nitrite
= 0, nitrate = 30, phosphorous = 0. I do a water change every week. We
have live plants (water sprite wisteria). The inhabitants are 2
Bristlenose Plecos, 8 black-skirt tetras, 8 white-skirt tetras, 11 minor
Serpae tetras, and about 6 apple snails. The Serpae tetras were
introduced about 2 weeks ago and my quarantine tank currently is housing
some baby Gold Gouramis, so
I chose not to quarantine them. I know I should have, but I have never
had any problem with the tetras from this source. A bad decision on my
part, but anyway, may I explain the problem to you...?
<Fire away.>
Oddly enough, the other fish in the tank seem to be still healthy and
unaffected by this disease bothering the serape tetras. It is the
strangest thing I have ever seen. The first sign is a very pale area
where the dorsal
fin meets their body. It's very clearly delineated and easy to see
against their red-orange background. Soon after that, the dorsal fin
degenerates and the fish seems to die within a day or two after they
reach that stage.
They don't seem swollen and neither do they show any other signs of
illness. I have never seen fin rot behave like this or fin rot that just
affects one species of tetra. Today, I got some API Triple Sulfa and am
planning on giving them the entire course of treatment as directed by
the manufacturer. Do you think that I am on the right track here? Please
advise and thank you so much for your time and any comments you may have
for me.
<Serpae Tetras are notorious fin-nippers, so one explanation is that
they're fighting within the group (which they do, especially when
feeding) and damaging one another. When feeding they have a feeding
frenzy
behaviour, but will also bully weaker specimens, even killing them.
Usually they attack other fish too, but the Black/White Skirt Tetras
(both Gymnocorymbus ternetzi) are pretty pushy, fast-moving little fish
themselves, and may be holding their own just fine. Gouramis, though,
are easy targets so I wouldn't mix them. This said, it is rare for
Finrot to kill fish within a couple days. Adding more Serpae tetras
might help, by
spreading out any aggression, but before doing that you'd want to
observe the Serpae Tetras and see if they're chasing or nipping each
other. If they are fighting, adding a few more could be a good move.
Alternatively, you might simply have a "bad batch" of Serpae Tetras, in
which case medicating for Finrot might stabilise things, giving you time
to see if they can be saved. If the fish get better, then no harm done.
If they eventually all die, I'd recommend not buying Serpae Tetras
again. Although cheap and usually extremely hardy, they aren't well
behaved fish, and there are better alternatives such as Red Phantom
Tetras out there.>
Riobhcah
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Minor Serpae Tetra fin rot? 11/15/14
Greetings. Well, I treated the entire aquarium with API Triple Sulfa for
four days and then observed the aquarium for several days and the
mysterious problem of the bacterial infection with the Serpae Tetras
seems to have been eradicated. All the fish look very healthy.
<Good.>
I have been watching them closely for fin nipping and have only seen a
limited amount of chasing amongst the Serpaes and a few isolated
incidents of them bothering the black & white skirt tetras who, as you
previously
stated, can give it back to them even better than the Serpaes can dish
it out.
<Often the case. Both species are "fin nippers" but Serpae Tetras tend
to be more persistent and vicious, whereas Black Widows generally behave
themselves if there's enough of them.>
I haven't seen them bothering the gold gouramis, who can be rather
pugnacious also if they choose to do so.
<Males, yes; females less so, if at all. Also, as they age, they slow
down a lot, making them easier targets, so do keep an eye out for them.>
I will watch the gouramis closely and move them to another aquarium if
necessary. I will keep watching the Serpaes for aggression. I have not
found anyone yet who has any idea exactly what this strange infection
was,
but the guy at PetSmart said that the others that came in in that
particular group had to be treated with antibiotics as well. Anyway,
just to let you know what the outcome was with this incident. Thanks for
the heads-up on Serpae aggression. I did notice that they are on nippy
fish.net where they seem to be known as the culprit in many a
fin-nipping incident.
<Indeed. Excellent fish in terms of colour, size, and usually hardiness.
They were extremely common fish in the aquarium hobby during its earlier
phase. But nowadays are not as popular. Unfortunately some retailers
give them alternate names, making it easy to buy them by mistake. Red
Minor Tetra, Jewel Tetra, Hyphessobrycon eques, Hyphessobrycon calistus
and Hyphessobrycon serpae are some of the names you'll see.>
Thanks again for your advice.
Rivqah
<Welcome. Neale.>
How small can I go? 12/3/10
Hey gang, looking for help picking a freshwater fish. I would like to
set up a tank of schooling predators, active, swarming, shiny, greedy
little fish. The challenge that I'm setting for myself is a using a
very small
tank. Probably a salt water style Nano tank, (primarily for aesthetic
reasons), I'm thinking 14-20 gallons. Can you recommend such a
fish? I have already ruled out Exodon paradoxus as probably to big (am
I wrong?).
Thanks for being awesome
Rob
<Your best bet would be Serpae Tetras. These have a true
"feeding frenzy" behaviour which is why they can create such
mayhem in community tanks. Keep at least eight specimens, and
preferably one per gallon of water, with 15 gallons being the minimum
tank size. These fish are insanely nippy sometimes, and will bit chunks
out of each other at feeding time. They were the first fish I ever
kept, and in part the subject of my first ever TFH Magazine article on
ten fish aquarists shouldn't keep. But I suspect you'll find
them just the thing. They're hardy, nicely coloured, and look
amazing in tanks with lots of Java moss and Java ferns, which
shouldn't be hard to do in a small tank. Exodon paradoxus is a
great fish, but you do need much
more than 20 gallons for them, realistically, 55 gallons would be about
right for a school of ten, which is the smallest number at which they
won't eat each other. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: How small can I go? 12/9/10
Thanks man, very helpful. My LFS guy, offered
Aphyocharax paraguayensis as a solution as well. Do
you know anything about them? Seems to be little info.
As always thanks very much.
Warm regards,
Rob
<Hello Rob. Aphyocharax paraguayensis isn't much traded,
particularly when compared to the very popular (and hardy) Bloodfin
Tetra, Aphyocharax anisitsi. Compared to the common Bloodfin,
Aphyocharax paraguayensis is a little over half the size (3-4 cm) but
otherwise pretty similar in terms of care and personality. It's a
peaceful schooling fish, but nippy, so best kept with species able to
avoid fin-nippers (i.e., not angels, fancy guppies, Bettas, Corydoras,
etc.). Water chemistry should be soft to
moderately hard, acidic to neutral, and the water turnover rate should
be fairly brisk as these are active swimmers, so aim for turnover rates
from 4-6 times the volume of the tank per hour. Cheers, Neale.>
Serpae tetras - Neale's Recent Post
2/9/10
I'd like to thank Neale for mentioning the trouble with these demon
fish.
<Oh! Another "once bitten, twice shy" story, I
suspect!>
I had done my research but unfortunately there are plenty of big sites
that will lead you astray on this fish.
<Indeed.>
I worked up to 7 of these fish as per other sites. More in the school
less likely for trouble.
<Is (usually) true with Tiger barbs, where the nipping is more about
frustrated social behaviour than anything else. But Serpae tetras and
their close kin are fin-eaters in the wild, and they view fins the same
way puffers view snails: potential meals!>
What I got after adding some peppered Cory catfish was nothing I've
read anywhere else. The tetras really attacked their fins and what was
most disturbing was that the tetras would lie in wait. They would often
hover at 90 degree angle to the catfish waiting for the right moment to
strike.
<Oh yes. These fish have evolved to feed on fins, and this stealthy
behaviour is precisely what they do.>
The cats would be on the bottom of tank doing what they do. I'm not
talking about a nip as the catfish would intrude on the space of the
tetras. I mean a deliberate wait to attack regardless of where the
victim was.
<To be fair, Corydoras are fairly stupid fish that don't seem to
learn anything. Which is why they're so often bullied (supposedly
even blinded) by dwarf cichlids. They never cotton on to parts of the
tank being off-limits, so keep blundering into trouble. By contrast, I
have some Dwarf Synodontis in a pufferfish aquarium, and they quickly
learned to keep a low profile!>
The other thing they would do is "head butt" the catfish as
they came down from getting breath at the top of the tank. Never on the
way up but always on the way down.
<Yikes!>
This would have made good video to show how evil these fish can be but
I had to separate them before causing any more harm. The cats simply
had lost spirit and would only come out when they had to and race back
to the bottom in order to be safe.
<Yes, this is how bullied Corydoras behave. Wild Corydoras are said
to be nocturnal, and they will revert to that behaviour if the aquarium
isn't peaceful.>
Petco a large chain here does warn that these fish can be nippers.
<Good.>
PetSmart the other huge chain does not. They list them as community
fish on their tanks.
<Bad.>
Even my LFS hadn't heard of tetras behaving this badly. I'd
like to see these fish de-listed from the community categories at the
retailers.
<Up to a point, I agree. While hardy and very pretty, it's a
difficult fish. One problem is that there are multiple Hyphessobrycon
of similar appearance, and some are perfectly peaceful while others are
nippy. So on the one hand you have the Flame Tetra (Hyphessobrycon
flammeus) which is shy, even timid, and on the other hand the Common
Serpae (Hyphessobrycon eques), a very vicious little nipper! I suspect
that some reports that Serpae tetras are "community fish"
come down to misidentifications. Again, we come to this issue with
common names rather than Latin names being used too loosely.>
I would also like to see when recommendations for a particular tetra be
made, that this fish be specifically mentioned as one that should be
kept on their own.
<Well, Serpae tetras can be superb fish *on their own* in things
like Amano-type tanks, where their small size, bright colours, and
schooling behaviour can work well. On the other hand, there are many
other tetras I'd recommend ahead of them for community tanks. Among
the best are things like Pristella Tetras in terms of hardiness,
Bleeding Heart tetras as companions for medium sized fish, and Congo
tetras where you're after show-stopping fish that grab the
eye.>
Anyway, thanks Neale for spreading the truth on this fish.
<Thanks for writing! Cheers, Neale.>
Attacked female guppy... Serpae
Tetras 2/5/10
Hello, I have a 30 gallon tank with a large variety of fish. I have to
female guppies who are always swimming around untill recently they have
been hiding In the temple for a few days. This morning I was looking
for them and one was finally out and I shook the temple to check on the
other one. He came out but his fancy tail Is almost all the way chewed
off..
Could this be from the other female because I don't have any males?
The only new fish I have Introduced them to are three white clouds,
Three tetra Longfin seep, and three tetra bloodfins. Are any of these
to aggressive for
the guppies?
<What's with the bizarre use of capitalised "I" all
over the place? Is this some new thing teenagers do to annoy people? In
any case, the Serpae tetras are almost certainly to blame here. Serpae
tetras are notorious fin nippers. The fact you're keeping both
Minnows, Serpae and Bloodfin tetras in groups of less than 6 specimens
makes things even worse. Out of frustration, any one of these species
could go rogue. Do read on the needs of fish prior to purchase. Cheers,
Neale.>
Re: attacked female guppy -- 2/5/10
Ok thank you.. My spell check must have made the caps. The people at
Petco said three of each would be fine.
<Ignorance on their part, and a reminder why you should read about a
fish before buying it.>
Do you recommend getting rid of the guppies or getting more Serpae
tetras?
I noticed there are a few red eyes nipped also.
<Serpae tetras will nip everything given the chance, including each
other (long-finned versions usually look very raggedy). So while
colourful and extremely hardy, I find them rather useless fish. Cheers,
Neale.>
Are there such a thing as serpae
tetra subspecies? 05/25/09 Hi all,
Firstly thanks for all the help with the SAP, plus the website is
amazing! I just picked up another serpae tetra today (I
miscounted the last time and
only had 11) so the total is now up to 12. This new tetra looks
identical to the other 11 tetras in the school--except s/he is lacking
the black dot located behind the eye. At first I thought it was
stress-related but the fish has adapted well and is eating... but no
spot. Is there such a thing as subspecies?
<The "subspecies" concept does indeed exist, humans for
example being a subspecies of Homo sapiens, Homo sapiens compared with
Neanderthal Man, Homo sapiens neanderthalensis.>
The 11 Serpaes look like this:
http://badmanstropicalfish.com/stats/characins_stats/stats_characins2e.html
And the new serpae looks like this:
http://badmanstropicalfish.com/profiles/profile75_comment.html
Thanks
<The problem here is that what the industry calls "Serpae
Tetras" can be any one of multiple closely related species in the
genus Hyphessobrycon.
While Hyphessobrycon eques is probably the most commonly traded member
of the Serpae Tetra Species Complex, other species of Hyphessobrycon
may be traded periodically as well. Even within Hyphessobrycon eques
there is substantial variation between geographical populations, and
artificial varieties further muddy the waters. The absence of the black
spot above the shoulder (called a humeral spot) could easily be
explained by any of these reasons. This variation has probably meant
that what people report when keeping "Serpae Tetras" has been
very variable over the years. True Serpae Tetras -- Hyphessobrycon
eques -- are noted for being aggressive feeders and have a feeding
frenzy behaviour very similar to that of large, predatory characins
such as Piranhas and Exodon paradoxus. They are also distinctly nippy,
and will take bites at slow-moving fish such as Corydoras, Platies,
Angelfish, Guppies and so on. Personally, I do not recommend them as
community fish at all. In fact they were my first ever tropical fish,
and the species with which I learned not to trust without verification
anything the pet show owner said! After I added some Angelfish and
Gouramis to my tank, I was shocked to see the carnage, and from that
point onwards have been much more critical about the information
casually
Weird
behavior? (Serpae Tetras, no surprises) --
10/23/08 Hello,
I am a new to this hobby. I have a 30 gal hex tank with a heater (78
degrees) and bio filter. Listening to the guys in the aquarium store I
cycled my tank using a male Guppy and two Sunset variatus (one male one
female). Everything was going great, and finally after one month I got
my water tested by the store and they said I could add more fish. They
suggested another male guppy and three Serpae Tetras.
<Bad community fish; Hyphessobrycon "serpae" (in fact a
variety of Hyphessobrycon species is a known fin-nipper. They are
schooling fish that need to be kept in groups of at least six and
realistically 12+. They have a feeding frenzy behaviour, and will
attack anything in range when feeding, including each other. Bullying
is a problem with this species. Under no circumstances should this
species EVER be added to community tanks with slow or long finned
species such as Guppies.>
From the moment I added the new fish my original Guppy began to act
strange. What once used to be an active fish swimming all over the tank
turned into shy fish hiding in the plants (fake). The new male Guppy
seems to be bullying all the other fish (including the Serpae Tetras
who I thought were supposed to be more aggressive).
<Male Guppies will certainly be aggressive towards other male
livebearers (such as Platies) given the chance. All livebearers should
be kept in groups of one male to every two or more females to reduce
this problem. I heartily recommend against keeping different livebearer
species because of differences in behaviour and aggression
level.>
This morning (the morning after I added new fish) my original
Guppy's tail fin is about half the size.
<Attacked by the tetras.>
He is laying on the ground and only moved to get food and then returned
to the ground not moving at all. What is going on? Will my fish die?
What can I do?
<Obviously the Serpae tetras must go. Please read an aquarium book
BEFORE purchasing new fish. The fact these are [a] nippy and [b]
schooling fish is no unknown and will be revealed by any decent
aquarium book. I happen to like (and rate highly) Baensch's
Aquarium Atlas, but there are lots of others.>
Thanks in advance for your help,
Dan
<Cheers, Neale.>
Fish inquiry... Tetra, small Characin sel., comp.
7/15/08 Dear Crew, I'm pretty new to the fish keeping
hobby but I have been researching online. Here is my dilemma. I
have a tank with serpae tetras who keep to themselves (thank
god), zebra Danios, a rubber lip Pleco, and platys. <A
"courageous" combination to say the least. Serpae
tetras aren't my recommendation for the community tank, as
you seem to realise.> I need a somewhat larger fish to be the
so-called "attraction" fish but I don't know which
kinds will live peacefully with my other fish. <With Serpae
tetras, not much! The obvious choices -- Angelfish, Gouramis,
etc. -- will simply be pecked to death.> I have a 26 gallon
tank, its pretty tall and its a bowfront. I've been deciding
between some kind(s) of gouramis, freshwater angels, or silver
dollars. <No, no and no respectively. The Gouramis and Angels
will be nibbled to pieces, and the Silver Dollars get far too
large for a tank this size.> Which species is best suited for
my tank and well get along with the tankmates; and if you have
any other suggestions about other species please let me know.
<To be honest, I'd not bother. I'd either up the
numbers of the species you already have, or perhaps add an
interesting catfish of some sort that can keep out of trouble.
Serpae tetras for example look their best in big swarms of dozens
of specimens, when their feeding frenzy behaviour becomes quite
something to watch. Of course any catfish that avoids trouble,
like a Synodontis, isn't going to be showpiece fish
you're after.> Also, ever since I transferred a red wag
platy over to the bigger tank, it has constantly been hiding even
though none of the other fish harass it. <Almost certainly it
has been nipped by the Serpae tetras and is keeping a low
profile. Serpae tetras don't just bite the fins from other
fish but also the scales, and such damage can be difficult to
see.> Is there any way I can solve this problem? <Not
really, no.> Thank you, Pierre <Hope this helps, Neale.>
Re: fish inquiry 7/15/08 Thank you for that info.
Do you think there are any tetras that I could replace the
Serpaes with that would get along with angels or gouramis? I
might decide to take them back to the pet store. Pierre
<Angelfish will simply view very small tetras, such as Neons,
as food, so you have to be careful. Certain other tetras, can be
just as nippy as Serpae tetras and will nibble on the Angels and
Gouramis. Black Widows (Gymnocorymbus ternetzi) and some of the
other Hyphessobrycon species fall into this category. My honest
recommendation would be to replace the Serpae tetras with more
Zebra Danios. Here's the thing: if you have one big school of
a schooling fish, it looks so much better than two small schools
of different schooling fish. You would then have one species at
the top (the Danios), one in the middle (perhaps a pair of Angels
or a pair of Lace Gouramis) and then your catfish at the bottom.
Instead of a jumble, you'll have an nice ordered arrangement.
Otherwise, consider X-Ray tetras (Pristella maxillaris), Diamond
tetras (Moenkhausia pittieri), or Lemon tetras (Hyphessobrycon
pulchripinnis) are excellent community tank tetras and the right
size for your aquarium. But as I say, better to have twelve
schooling fish of one type than six of two different types.
Cheers, Neale.>
Re: fish inquiry (Dwarf Gouramis, Angelfish, selection)
7/15/08 I'm going to exchange my Serpaes this
evening. I think I will most likely go with the large school or
Danios and either dwarf gouramis or angelfish. I'll let my
little brother pick. Thanks so much for all your help! Pierre
<My advise to anyone is don't get Dwarf Gouramis (Colisa
lalia, including fancy forms like "neon gouramis",
"robin gouramis", and so on). Unless wild-caught or
locally bred, which the ones in shops most certainly are not,
these fish are extremely likely to carry an incurable viral
disease known as Dwarf Gourami Iridovirus. One estimate by vets
puts the incidence at 22% for Dwarf Gouramis exported from
Singapore. Because the virus is extremely contagious, you only
need one infected fish in a batch to ensure all the others get
sick too. The number of Dwarf Gourami e-mails we get would
astonish you, and they really are a complete waste of money.
Almost every retailer I know dislikes stocking them because so
many die in their tanks, but there is sufficient demand among
newbie aquarists who don't know better that they remain
profitable. It's a shame, because twenty years ago they were
quite good little fish. Nowadays, you're better off with the
hardier (if slightly bigger) Colisa fasciata and Colisa labiosus.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWsubwebindex/dwfgdis.htm If you buy
Angelfish, do remember these are territorial cichlids. You cannot
sex them. But if you have two males, in a small aquarium they are
very likely to become aggressive towards one another. If you buy
a singleton, then there's an increased chance that Angelfish
will "go rogue" and attack other fish in the tank, so
that approach is not without risks. The standard way to keep
Angels is to buy six specimens, let them pair off as they mature,
and remove the four surplus fish when the time comes. Because
Angels are such popular fish, rehoming adults is not difficult
and any half-decent aquarium shop will take them off your hands.
Cheers, Neale.>
Re: fish inquiry (Dwarf Gouramis, Angelfish, selection)
7/17/2008 Can the dwarf Gourami virus spread to other
species of fish or only the ones in the Gourami family? <This
is a complex question. The short answer is yes, the virus can
spread to other species in other families. But so far as I know,
the only scientifically documented example is where Dwarf
Gouramis Iridovirus appears to have infected Maccullochella
peelii, and Australian perch-like fish belonging to the
Percichthyidae family. There are no reports that I am aware of
where the virus has caused problems in other species of Gourami
though. Hence my recommendation that Colisa fasciata and Colisa
labiosus are safe, reliable alternatives. Yes, they aren't
quite as colourful, but they are still lovely fish and much, much
more likely to live long and happy lives. If you want a small,
non-aggressive Gourami for the community tank, these are the ones
to go for. Cheers, Neale.>
|
Neon Tetras And Serpae Tetra, incomp.
5/5/08 Hello there, nice to be
back! I have my problem with my 9 neon tetras and 5 Serpae Tetras.
First week after I buy the Neons the Serpaes are not doing anything to
the Neons, they don't disturb them. <Yet...> Yesterday I saw
one of my Neons has no tail then one Serpae attack the neon and bite
the neon's tail. <Ah, there it is.> I'm shock when I saw
it, and until now I can't imagine the worst thing my Serpae did. I
think of possible solutions, and it came to my mind that if I remove
the Serpae tetra (3 of them) will the aggressiveness will be minimize,
I will just remain one male and female. Is it ok? <Nope. Serpae
tetras, as I point out repeatedly here at WWM, are not community safe.
They eat fins and scales in the wild, and also have a "feeding
frenzy" behaviour that means they lunge at anything and everything
when feeding. Mixing Serpae tetras with anything other than more Serpae
tetras is not a good idea. Period. End of discussion. They're great
fish on their own, but were the very first fish I ever kept way back in
the early 80s, and I learned my lesson the hard way.> please give me
the right solution. My tank is 10 gallons, planted, and an Amazon
blackwater layout. <Neons need cooler water (around 22 C) than
Serpae tetras (around 25 C), so aren't really compatible anyway.
I'd get rid of the Serpae tetras, since a 10 gallon tank is too
small for them. Keep the Neons, let the temperature drop, and if you
want obtain some suitable tankmates for this sort of tank, e.g.,
Corydoras habrosus.> Hope you will reply soon. Thanks and more
power! <Hope this helps! Neale.>
Serpae Tetra Stopped Eating
4/1/08 Hello Crew, First of all, thanks so much in advance
for your help. We are new to the hobby, and are not sure what
information you'll need, so have included as much as possible
below. We have a 55 gallon freshwater tank; it has been up and
running with decorations since December 2007. We are using a
Marineland Penguin BioWheel 350 for up to 75 gallons, and have
included an Algone pouch in the filter to help control algae. We
also have a circulation pump on the opposite side of the aquarium
from the filter that has a flow rate of 2300 L/H, 600 GPH. There
are no live plants, but there are a lot of silk plants, large
pieces of wood, and floating plant decorations, providing plenty
of hiding places. The first fish were added on Feb 24: 4 Head and
Tail Light Tetras, 4 Red Eye Tetras, and 4 Harlequin Rasboras.
During this time, levels of Ammonia and Nitrate stayed at 0, and
PH was steady at 7.0; one water change of 15% was performed on
March 16, and levels continued to stay the same. Temperature
fluctuates slightly between 77 and 79 degrees. On March 22, the
following fish were added: 2 Farlowella Catfish, 4 Emerald Green
Cory Cats (Brochis Splendens), 4 Serpae Tetras, 4 Black Tetras, 6
Brilliant Rasboras. The Ammonia / Nitrite / PH levels have
continued to stay the same, and most of the fish are doing great.
Additionally, we have been adding API's Stress Zyme weekly as
directed, to help the live bacteria. However, there is one Serpae
Tetra that has recently stopped eating (we have been feeding once
per day with Aqueon Tropical Flakes, and planned to incorporate
other types of food later). At first, all 4 Serpaes ate the food.
All the other fish are still very interested in the food each
day, and swim freely around the tank, but this particular Serpae
stays in one corner of the tank pretty much all the time, and is
most often near the bottom. At feeding time, the other fish rush
over to the food, but this Serpae stays at the bottom of the
tank, usually hiding under a piece of wood. We have not noticed
this fish eat for 4 or 5 days. He shows no obvious signs of
illness. Two of the other Serpaes have dorsal fins that look as
if they could have been nipped, but this Serpae has a perfect
dorsal fin. We have not noticed any bullying, although the other
three Serpaes do chase one another around, and one of these three
(with a possibly nipped fin) often hangs out nearby the
non-eating Serpae. How can we get this guy to eat? Thanks, Kate
and Jason <Greetings. Serpae tetras (Hyphessobrycon spp.) are
not good community fish, and they do indeed feed on the scales
and fins of other fish. They will nip other fish in the tank,
particularly slow moving things like catfish. Secondly, Serpae
tetras have a "feeding frenzy" of sorts, and when kept
in too-small a group they are apt to bully one another. Even six
specimens is too few to get good behaviour from this species. You
need 10-12 at least for them to create a stable "pack".
Frankly, I'd recommend against any aquarist keeping them
unless they know precisely what they're letting themselves in
for. Yes, they're cheap, and yes, they're hardy, and yes,
they're pretty. But they just aren't good aquarium fish.
Sooner or later you will find your Serpae Tetras bully each other
to death until you end up with just the one specimen. Stories of
people keeping "peaceful Serpae tetras" usually end up
being situations where people have kept look-alike tetras with
nicer personalities. Do read up on the species sold as
"Serpae tetras" , i.e., Hyphessobrycon callistus, H.
eques and others. Remember also to treat nipped fins: these can
quickly become infected, yielding to Finrot or Fungus. As a total
aside, many of your fish are schooling species: that means they
MUST be kept in groups of at least 6 specimens. When kept in too
small a group they will, at the least, be stressed. You're
also not going to see them behave normally. Resist the temptation
to treat them like pick 'n' mix candy and take a couple
of these and a couple of those. They're animals, and they
have needs. Trust me on this, you'll also find them
longer-lived, healthier, and more rewarding when kept in SCHOOLS
rather than small numbers. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Serpae Tetra Stopped Eating 4/1/08
Neale, Thank you very much for your response. We definitely do
want to have healthy and happy, non-stressed fish (we thought a
group of 4 was good for schooling fish, obviously a mistake). It
sounds like we should remove the Serpaes and take them back to
the LFS (they are definitely Hyphessobrycon callistus). If we did
that and increased the other schooling fish (Harlequin Rasboras,
Head and Tail Light Tetras, Red Eye Tetras, Black Tetras, Emerald
Cory Cats) to 6 fish, would that be all right, or is that too
many fish for our 55 gallon tank? We don't want to overload
it, and doing that would remove 4 fish and add 10. Our apologies
if this is a naive question--we are beginners and we greatly
appreciate your help. Thank you, Kate and Jason <Hello again!
Six is generally considered the MINIMUM number for schooling
fish. Any fewer and they just don't "school".
Upgrading your schools to 6 or more in a 55 gallon tank will be
fine. I'd even go for 8-10 a piece. Serpae tetras were the
first fish I ever kept, back around 1987. All they did was nip,
nip, nip. Terrible fish. What they are is miniature piranhas, and
kept on their own in a big swarm they're actually quite good
fun. When they feed, they go berserk, and will rip bits off each
other if they can't get enough food to eat. It's a real
feeding frenzy. But as community tropicals, they are of limited
value. Anyway, all your other fish would be fine, except with
these provisos: Black tetras (by which I assume you mean
Gymnocorymbus ternetzi) are also fin nippers, though usually only
when kept with Gouramis, angelfish, guppies, Bettas and the like.
With other tetras and fast-moving fish they're fine. Red-Eye
tetras (Moenkhausia sanctaefilomenae) are only very rarely
reported to be fin-nippers. Keep an eye out for it, but in groups
of 6+ they should be fine. Again, don't put temptation in
their path. Farlowella catfish are perhaps the most difficult
commonly traded catfish to keep alive for any length of time.
They are really a fish for advanced hobbyists. The problems are
two fold. Firstly, they're easily damaged by other fish (look
out for signs of nipping, e.g., damage to their tail fins).
Secondly, they are almost entirely algae-eaters, and cannot
"scavenge". You will need to add Algae Wafers to the
aquarium at least 3-4 nights per week for these fish to eat,
though frankly I'd be surprised if the Corydoras didn't
eat them first. You can also offer thin slices of softened or
blanched vegetables, weighted down with little bits of lead (the
stuff used to hold down aquarium plants, very cheap). Courgette
(zucchini) is a favourite, but tinned peas, cooked spinach, and
Sushi Nori will also be taken. Some small invertebrate foods like
bloodworms will need to be give as well. Lifespan in most aquaria
is sadly rather short. Hope this helps, Neale.>
|
Serpae Tetras Badgering Cory Cat 8/1/06
Hi WWM Crew! <<Hi, Stella. Tom here this
morning.>> Hope you all are doing well. <<We hope you are,
too!>> I have a 10-gallon freshwater aquarium with 5 small serpae
tetras, a small bronze Cory and 2 small Otocinclus (everyone's
around the same size of "small" except the Cory is more block
shaped). <<Sounds fine.>> I introduced the serpae tetras
about a week ago and they have been a complete terror with the poor
Cory, nipping his dorsal and caudal fin to pieces. <<It would
seem that I spoke too soon.>> I was hoping they would eventually
adjust to the tank and stop the nipping but they aren't and the
Cory isn't able to recover. I've decided to move the Cory to
another 10-gallon tank that I have but is currently empty.
<<He/she will be happy for the relief, I'm sure.>> My
question is whether I should move the Cory before the tank has cycled
or wait the 3-4 weeks for the new tank to cycle completely. <<It
doesn't sound to me like those juvenile delinquent Tetras are going
to leave the Cory alone long enough for the other tank to completely
cycle.>> My current tank is well cycled with no trace
of ammonia or nitrites and nearly zero levels of nitrates. <<This
is going to help.>> Which is the least of two evils: fin nipping
or uncycled tank? <<The fin-nipping is the lesser of the two but
five against one are odds that no fish should have to contend with. The
Cory's stressed and likely injured (to an extent) which is going to
make it a prime target for an infection of some description. That alone
would likely mandate the move so let's look at the options. The
first I would recommend is doing water changes in the QT with water
from the cycled tank. Since we're not dealing with a pathogen issue
in the older tank, this shouldn't be a problem and may, in fact,
help us along. If you have a source for BIO-Spira (Marineland),
you'll be able to eliminate this dilemma altogether but it's
not always easy to come by locally. If you have a good fish store
nearby, you might give them a call, or visit them, to see if they have
this specific product in stock. Beyond these two, the best counsel I
can share is to keep an eye on both the Cory and, certainly, on the
water conditions until this tank settles out.>> Any advice would
be appreciated. ----Stella <<Wishing you the best of
luck here, Stella. Tom>>
Re: Serpae Tetras Badgering Cory Cat - 8/10/2006
Thank you so much for your quick answers, Tom! <<You'll make
me blush, Stella! You're very welcome.>> I just wanted to let
you know that the Cory is happily swimming about in his very own nearly
cycled tank. Doing the water change with water from the already cycled
tank really did the trick. <<Neat trick, isn't it? :)>>
I will probably get him a companion Cory soon as I've read that
they like to be among their own like kind. <<Oh, they don't
do bad by themselves, Stella. When you get a chance, post again and
I'll give you the brief rundown on "schooling" fish. They
don't "school" as much as some would like us to
believe... Corys are a good example.>> Sadly, one of the
Otocinclus is now getting slightly nipped in the tail as well. Are
these serpae tetras just bad seeds, or is there something I should be
doing to prevent this behavior? <<Not "bad seeds", just
little pains-in-the-butt (if you'll pardon the expression). Pretty
fish but are somewhat notorious fin-nippers.>> I've placed a
small glass jar in the bottle <<bottom?>> of the tank to
serve as an Oto hideout which I think has helped some, and there are a
couple of plants (plastic and real) for cover as well. <<Mine
have, finally, lost their love of nipping at everything that comes
across their "plate". Still rambunctious but not nearly as
bad as they used to be. When they discover that your Oto is faster than
they are, they should lose interest.>> Thank you for an advice
you can give. ---Stella <<Nice to
"talk" to you again, Stella. Tom>>
Fading Serpae Tetra - 2/15/2006 I recently bought 2 Serpae Tetras about a week
ago. They are in a 10 gallon tank with 2 fancy
tail guppies. <Like different water...> All are doing fine, but
noticed this morning one of the Tetras looks like it's
fading. He's not the bright orange and black
he was before. What do you think could be
the problem? Thanking you in advance..... Jenny~
<The Tetras "like" soft, acidic, warm water (80's F.),
the guppies, hard, alkaline, cooler water... Bob Fenner>
Serpae Tetra shimmy while swimming 8/9/05 I have a ten gallon
tank with 3 Serpae Tetras, 2 Platies, and 2 Otocinclus. My tank is 8
months old and I have not had any problems with it other than a rough
start with cycling when I first set up the tank and a case of ich
(during that cycling period) that wiped out all the fish except one
Tetra. It is that original Tetra that I am having a problem
with. He seems to shimmy when he swims. I have
read all of your postings on "Shimmy" but they all
seem to indicate that the fish is standing still when he shimmies.
<Usually, yes> My fish only shimmies when he is
actually swimming. This started a couple weeks ago and at
first I thought it was some kind of mating behavior but now he seems to
be swimming slightly slanted to the side. He still has a
healthy appetite and seems to be playful with the other
fish. Any ideas? Is this something that I should
treat. All the other fish seem fine. Even though this fish
survived the start up cycle and the ich could that have had any long
term effects on him? Thank for all you do Tina <Thank you for
writing, and so well, thoroughly. This one fish sounds like it is
neurally damaged... perhaps from the cycling trouble, ich-medicine
exposure. It very likely does not have something that is catching. I
would just keep it as you have been, and hope it straightens up. Bob
Fenner>
School's In Session Long story. I have a
5gal tank, for lack of expenses, though I have heard that 20gal is
better. Last week, out of compassion or whatever, I tried to save some
goldfish some people on my college campus were not treating right.
Oops. Found out later that they are not good starter fish. Well they
all died within a few days. I had not given the tank enough time to
cycle. I was told that I could get a couple fish to put in here for
starters. Three days ago I got one Serpae tetra and one black skirt
tetra. The man at the pet shop said they were his favorites to use.
Later that day, I found out online about the schooling fish, and that
they need to be in groups of six minimum. What do I do? They seem
healthy so far, active. <Well, I would give your tank a little more
time to finish cycling, then you might want to add maybe two more of
each. Not exactly a school, but small groups> I realized yesterday
that I was overfeeding, so I have cut back to once a day, smaller
pinch. Water is clear, but there is a smell, reminds me of urine. No
other way to put it... Here are my questions. is the smell something
bad? how do I get rid of it? <Well, if it smells like urine, it may
not be a good thing. A healthy tank has an "earthy", pleasant
smell, not an ammonia-like smell. What kind of filter are you using? If
you are not already (and assuming your filter can accommodate it), try
using some activated carbon. That will help remove discoloration and
odor. And, of course, in a small tank, you should be diligent about
regular water changes! Acquire some test kits: ammonia, nitrite,
nitrate. By regular water testing, particularly in the early stages of
your tank's existence, you can really get a handle for what's
going on.> Would the two groups work good together, or do I need
eventually to get a separate tank? <I think that they will work with
diligent attention to maintenance, but you will eventually have to get
a larger tank to accommodate these fish at full size. Maybe neon tetras
would be a better choice for the long run?> To add fish, how big a
tank do I need for a good number? <Maybe a 10 or 20 gallon tank.
This would give you more flexibility> Don't have the gages yet,
but will be getting them soon. Any help will be so appreciated. Thanks
for everything. I've been reading and it's good info. Amy
<Keep reading and learning! You're doing great! Scott F.>
|
|