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Ctenolucius hujeta; was - Re:
Moving! 7/3/11
You make an interesting suggestion. Could you possibly suggest a
blueprint of a "perfect" 90 gallon Hujeta Gar tank setup?
Thanks for your help.
Rob
<Hello Rob. Ctenolucius hujeta is best kept in small groups, ideally
equal numbers of males and females (they have differently shaped anal
fins) but I have two males and they mostly get along fine. In a
90-gallon tank I'd be aiming for a group of 5-6 specimens, though a
pair or trio would be fine if you wanted more space for other fish.
Tankmates can include anything that isn't so small they'd be
swallowed; large characins, rainbowfish and barbs would all fit the
bill nicely. Non-aggressive loaches and catfish would
work too. Ctenolucius hujeta are quite adaptable but the ideal
conditions would be soft to moderately hard, around neutral water (2-12
degrees dH, pH 6.5-7.5) and water that has a brisk current even though
they are somewhat adapted to stagnant water (they have peculiar flaps
on their jaws for absorbing extra oxygen). In a good current
they're surprisingly lively.
They aren't too fussed about plants though floating plants seem
welcome.
Couldn't care less about decorations at the middle and lower
levels, so do what you want in those parts of the tank. In short, they
fit into almost any medium-sized fish community system. Mine live with
Ameca splendens, Dwarf Upside-down Catfish, a Cherry-Fin Loach, a
Garra, and a Royal Plec.
There's more, here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/CtenolucidArt.htm
Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Ctenolucius hujeta 7/4.5/11
Sounds like a nice tank. I like the idea of the hujeta knocking off the
livebearer fry.
<Can be a useful trait!>
I feel bad for asking this, as you have already helped me out a lot as
it is and steered me off the rocks of my own impetuousness once
again.
Could I keep one or two Cetopsis coecutiens in my 90gal? if so what
sort of biotope? It sounds like a wild and easy to keep species
tank.
<I don't know much about Cetopsis coecutiens, though I have seen
them in shops like Wildwoods now and again. Although reported to be
fairly easy to keep (provided you provide adequate space, lots of
oxygen, and low to middling tropical temperatures) they can't be
trusted with other fish. They feed in two ways, partly on small prey
they can swallow whole, and partly on biting chunks out of larger fish
(in this regard being very similar to the infamous Cookie-Cutter
Sharks). On the other hand they are reported to be sociable with their
own kind. They also seem to be adaptable feeders that quickly take
earthworms, tilapia fillet, etc. Given their adult size of around 20
cm/10 inches, a 90 gallon tank would be adequate rather than generous.
Decor would need to be something evocative of a deep river channel --
which in South America would include things like smooth silica sand,
bogwood, water-worn pebbles, and ideally some large hollow log-like
structures within which the catfish could hide. Lighting would need to
be dim, ideally a few spotlights so there'd be dark and brighter
patches in the tank. These aren't catfish I'd particularly
recommend. They're not, for example, like the wonderful Jaguar Cat
(Liosomadoras oncinus) that is similar in size and just as shy, but
completely harmless towards fish it can't swallow whole. My very
favourite big catfish is the superb Sorubim lima, a species that
combines large size (around 35-45 cm/14-18 inches), sociable
personality (please keep two or more!), looks amazing, and best of all,
is completely peaceful and easy to feed on anything, even pellets. So
provided you choose appropriate tankmates, such as Severums and Silver
Dollars, you can have your "Big Cat" fix while also creating
a beautiful community tank. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Ctenolucius hujeta
7/5/11
I hear what your saying, and as always you give good advice. I'm
going to research those fish now.
<Cool.>
I confess that I like the idea of keeping a fish that few people have.
I also like the idea that its a fast moving fish as well, at least this
seems to indicate that it is
"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vlvvw8Ohgwo".
<Absolutely. They are fast-moving fish, at least they need to be in
the wild. Their favoured prey are, apparently, the large predatory
catfish such as the giant pimelodids. Again, the parallels with
Cookie-Cutter Sharks are obvious.>
My LFS is getting some regardless of what I decide so I will have a
chance to look before hand. Perhaps I might make a few observations on
keeping them (if I decide to get them) in the process?
<Sounds like a plan. My only issue is this: While you could keep
these in a tank by themselves without problems, the question is whether
you'd be happy with a tank containing a couple of catfish you
rarely saw for 15+ years. I tend to prefer tanks that allow me to add
or remove tankmates on an ongoing basis, so the aquarium always has
something new as well as attractive.>
Thanks again Neale, you are the man.
Rob
<Thanks for the kind words. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Ctenolucius hujeta;
comp. 7/23/11
So you're right as always.
<Not sure my girlfriend would agree'¦>
I'm going to go with a Ctenolucius hujeta tank with a
single Xenentodon cancila. will that work?
<I'm not 100% sure, but it's definitely worth a shot.
They're similar in temperament, and though the Ctenolucius are a
bit smaller, they're quite chunky, and I'd expect the
Xenentodon would leave them alone. Ctenolucius are somewhat social, so
do try and keep more than one. Do also keep your eyes peeled for
Boulengerella species. Some get huge (see Google!) but the 30-40 cm
long species are extremely attractive, rather placid predators.>
As well, how risky would it be to have a few crayfish on the
bottom? I've always wanted some of the handsome ones but
they eat fish... I'm wondering if the fish I've chosen would be
safe?
<Well, Xenentodon does eat crustaceans in the wild, so my assumption
would be if it could catch any crayfish small enough to swallow, it
would eat them. But on the other hand I don't see a large crayfish
being at any severe risk. Crayfish can/do cause problems in fish tanks
through aggression and opportunistic predation, so there's always a
risk from that angle. I'm not a huge fan of crayfish in community
tanks. By all means try it, be alert to the risks and act
accordingly.>
Thanks for your patience, If your ever in Toronto please drop me a line
so I can buy you a stack of beers.
<Real good.>
Rob
<Good luck, Neale.>
Re: Ctenolucius hujeta;
7/23/11
So I'm cycling the 90 gallon tank right now. It has 40lbs of good
quality gravel with 30lbs of light planted tank substrate on top (from
an existing 20 gallon heavily planted tank). I think it looks nice, the
gravel is black layered larger pieces on the bottom to progressively
finer, the planted stuff is light and sits on top. Lots of driftwood
and rocks. Lots of easy to maintain plants and java moss. Got a dozen
tank bred Danios cycling it right now, as well as three Kuhli loaches
from the old 20 gal planted tank.
<Sounds good. Do look at the hardy Cryptocoryne species like C.
wendtii; these are ideal for providing ground cover in big tanks. They
don't take up so much space as Vallisneria, but unlike Java ferns,
Anubias and Java moss, they do go in the gravel rather than on bits of
bogwood.>
I'm thinking 4 Ctenolucius hujeta 1:1 male female ratio,
<Good.>
One Xenentodon cancila for a start, more if it thrives,
<A wise approach. They're fiddly feeders, but will take live
crickets, and these can be easily dusted with vitamin supplements as
well as gut-loaded.
Mealworms and earthworms are also good for rounding out the diet. As
ever, avoid using feeder fish unless home-bred, non-cyprinid
types.>
and more small pike type fish (pikehead Gourami?) in due course?
<Luciocephalus; extremely difficult to maintain. Needs a single
species tank with very soft (1-2 degrees dH, 0 carbonate hardness) and
very acidic water (pH 5.5). Once the pH gets above 6, the bacteria
count in the water rockets, and these blackwater fish simply can't
handle that.>
Basic husbandry question here. The tank is sitting 89.7degrees
lengthwise and 89.3 in width, I thought that that was pretty good yet
the water level is 1.1cm higher on one side. That seems like a lot to
me. The tank is only two years old and in in good condition. I am
assured that it is fine but I don't trust it. The tank is difficult
to shim as the whole base contacts the floor (picture attached). Is
this setup safe?
<Yep, should be fine.>
Regards,
Rob
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Ctenolucius hujeta; 7/24/11
Thanks man, I'm on the path to a good setup here.
<Cool.>
Would you be kind enough to suggest a few "pike type" tank
mates that I could potentially add some months down the line?
<Think you'll be crowded already, and frankly, apart from the
Ctenolucius, Boulengerella, and Xenentodon, there's not a huge
variety at this size range. Pike Livebearers would be too difficult to
feed, and North American Gar (Lepisosteus spp.) would be too
large.>
Or anything interestingly oddball that would inhabit the bottom?
<Smallish Pike Cichlid perhaps? Otherwise would look for a fun,
characterful midwater fish, perhaps a Ctenopoma or South American
cichlid, and then one or more bottom dwellers, perhaps a Tyre-Track Eel
or some sort of Synodontis or Loricariid. Essentially fish that
won't molest the peaceful surface dwellers and won't compete
for food. If they happen to eat leftovers and algae as well, so much
the better, in which case perhaps something like a Panaque or
Baryancistrus. If you have an open sandy substrate, giant Whiptails
would be superb companions for surface swimming predators. I'm a
big fan of these fish; see my recent article in TFH:
http://www.tfhmagazine.com/details/articles/the-weird-and-wonderful-world-of-whiptails-full-article.htm
Pseudohemiodon apithanos is particularly impressive, thanks to its
colour-changing abilities.>
Thanks again,
Rob
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Ctenolucius hujeta
8/1/11
Added a pair of Ctenolucius hujeta to the tank Saturday, I had thought
that the Danios that had cycled the tank were large enough to be safe.
I was wrong, by Monday all the unfortunate fish had been consumed.
<Oops.>
I'm not happy about it as I'm thinking weaning onto frozen/dry
food will be more challenging now.
<Shouldn't be. But a whole Danio will provide a lot of energy,
so give them 2-3 days before offering anything else.>
I'm going to try to teach them to take floating pellets (as I have
a giant bag of the stuff) using crickets to start the process. I've
had good luck with this in the past. Could you suggest an alternate
method?
<I got mine feeding on seafood within 24 hours. Simply get 'em
hungry, and then use needle-nose forceps to dangle a sliver of prawn or
fish fillet in the water. They're visual predators that appreciate
movement. Wiggle the prey in the current. Eventually, they'll nose
up to the food, and with luck, snap at it. It's very quick, and the
first time, quite surprising!>
I'm happy with the fish,
<Glad to hear it. For predatory fish, they're very easy to keep,
and compatible with all sorts of stuff. A nice fierce look, obvious
speed and power, but a gentle temperament and moderate size.>
the male seems very comfortable with the tank already and the female is
settling in as well often taking station astern of him.
<Yep, this is what they like to do. They're often said to be
sedate, but in a spacious tank with a good current, they're
constantly moving about. Mine are very curious, and in fact one of them
is watching me right now!>
And Neale, great website man. Really neat, you seem to be making a
living writing about your hobbies. I'm envious.
<Thanks for the kind words.>
Regards,
Rob
<Cheers, Neale.>
Rocket gar... max. size
10/22/07 Hi, thank you for answering my first question about
adding the frog. I was wondering what the maximum length of the
rocket gar (Ctenolucius hujeta) is. I seem to be able to find
only the long nose gar info. Thank you very much for your time
and info. <Maximum size of Ctenolucius hujeta is a bit over 20
cm. But do bear in mind that these fish are not always reliably
identified, so spending a bit of time at Fishbase ( http://filaman.ifm-geomar.de/identification/specieslist.cfm?famcode=104&areacode=
) is a good idea so you can correctly ID your fish. Most species
are in the 20-40 cm bracket, but the biggest species gets to over
80 cm. Ctenolucius hujeta is a characin, and far removed from the
longnose gar Xenentodon cancila, which is a member of the
Belonidae (the sister group of the halfbeaks). Cheers,
Neale>
Re: Rocket gar 10/22/07 Hi, thank you very much for the
web site about the rocket gar. I'm sorry to repeat any
previous information that was said before, but I was wondering if
the rocket gars are more of a schooling fish and would enjoy the
company of another one rather than being alone. Thank you very
much for your time and effort. <Yes, Ctenolucius hujeta is a
schooling species. We have an article about these and other
"mini killers" here at WWM:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/pikefishes.htm .
There's also another article about this family of Characins
here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/extcharcins1.htm .
Truly, if you have a dig around, you'll find articles on just
about everything aquatic here! Cheers, Neale>
Fish room 10/21/07 Hi, I have two Jack
Dempsey's, two fire mouth cichlids, 1 Zig Zag eel, 1 red
crayfish, 1 Chinese algae eater and 1 rocket gar. I have them all
in a 75 gallon tank and they are doing wonderful. I was just
wondering though, if it could be possible to place an African
clawed frog in the tank also. I have had one before but I
wasn't sure if adding another one would work. Thank you for
your time and effort. <Greetings. I'm surprised the
Chinese algae eater (Gyrinocheilus aymonieri) and the JDs
aren't causing havoc yet. Zig-zag Spiny eels (I assume
Mastacembelus armatus or Mastacembelus favus) is large but
peaceful, and the Rocket Gar (Ctenolucius hujeta) is very nervous
and easily scared (and then damaged as it flings itself about the
tank). So long term I'd be waiting to see casualties. But if
things are working out, fine. But no, adding a frog of any kind
to this tank would be foolish. If nothing else, the Chinese algae
eater will probably try and suck their skins, and frogs have
very, very delicate skins. Chinese algae eater become steadily
more aggressive as they mature, and once about 20 cm or so, most
specimens become completely hostile to everything in the tank.
JDs are also very territorial, and anything slow and clumsy like
a frog could be easily bullied. Bottom line, mixing fish and
amphibians is generally not a good idea unless you have a
specific combination that you know will work. So rather than
trying to add random animals to your tank, why not just keep the
fish you have *better*. Ctenolucius hujeta is a schooling fish:
best kept in groups of 3-5. So if you're going to add more
things, why not bump up their numbers, so they're happy
instead of lonely? I'd honestly get ready to move out the
Chinese algae eater. Cheers, Neale.>
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Freshwater Barracuda I've seen and heard of
this freshwater barracuda. Scientific Name Ctenolucius hujeta. I want
to know if I could put just 1 alone in 55 gallon aquarium with a
sailfin pleco that is 8 inches. I heard they like lots of filtration
and open water with some live plants. I also want to know if guppies
would be OK to feed to it. They recommend using live fish such as
feeders but my guppies are constantly breeding. I want to know if I can
get some info about this species of fish. Also it looks more to be a
gar than a barracuda. I greatly appreciate you guys for reading this
message. Sorry for any misspellings. <This member of the Gar family
grows to around 9 inches. A 55 is plenty of room for one. Up to 3 would
be OK with heavy filtration and lots of water changes. It's the
sailfin that will outgrow this tank. They grow slow, but can hit 18+
inches! As to feeding, guppies you breed yourself are fine food. As
long as you know the tank is healthy, it's not a problem. But no
store bought feeders! You WILL bring Ick, or worse, into your system.
When you run short of guppies try small garden worms, insects, human
seafood, as well as any flake or pellets he will take. Don>
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