FAQs on the
Cyprinodontids,
Pupfishes et
al.
Related Articles: Cyprinodontid Fishes, Cyprinodontiform Fishes, Killifishes:
Part 1 by Dr. Robert J.
Goldstein, Killifishes, Part
II- The Nothobranchius Family by Robert J.
Goldstein, Ph.D
Related FAQs: Aplocheilid Fishes, Killifishes, Aplocheilids, Rivuline Fishes,
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Fish I.D. Help 10/6/10
Dear Crew,
During a recent visit to our local zoo we came across this
particular fish in a saltwater display (yes I am sure it was
saltwater). I have been scouring the internet in an attempt to
find some, as they quite interesting
and I enjoy them. I thought perhaps they might make a neat
addition to my 125g tank. I have to say though, it appears more
freshwater than salt, given it was only about 3" in length
and, in my opinion has rather large scales comparative to its
body size. Seems to me most of the smaller fish offered in the
trade are more "smooth skinned" in appearance, with
less defined scales, though this could be a juvenile I suppose. I
am by no means any type of marine biologist, and it has merely
been a humble observation
of mine in the local shops I frequent, and the books I have read.
Any help with an i.d. / possible lead on where to obtain some
would be greatly appreciated. Thanks crew!!
Justin
<Hello Justin. This looks like Cyprinodon variegatus,
the Sheepshead Minnow, one of the American non-annual
killifish known as Pupfish. It's distributed across a very
wide area along the coastline of the Americas from Massachusetts
down to Venezuela. Although sometimes found in freshwater, it is
primarily an inhabitant of brackish and
saltwater canals, swamps and lagoons. It is famously
tolerant of high salinity, including hypersaline conditions up to
twice the salinity of normal seawater. In the wild it is commonly
associated with Fundulus spp. killifish as well as Poecilia
latipinna, all of them being found in brackish to normal marine
habitats rather than freshwater habitats. Maintenance is best at
a salinity at least one-quarter that of normal marine conditions,
i.e., about SG 1.005. It can be kept in freshwater, but it tends
to be less easily kept that way and more susceptible to disease.
Water temperature should be room temperature or slightly warmer,
up to about 25 C/77 F. Males are extremely aggressive towards one
another, but otherwise the species generally ignores dissimilar
fish. The specimen in your photo is a male, notable for its blue
colouration that becomes especially intense when spawning.
Females are more
green-brown. Like other Pupfish, this species is an omnivore that
eats both algae and small invertebrates. Unfortunately this
species is rarely offered in the trade. You may be able to obtain
them through a national killifish association, or more easily,
through a biological supply house. Although I've never used
them and so can't recommend them from experience, biological
suppliers Sachs Systems Aquaculture for example offers 4 of these
fish for $25. That perhaps gives you some idea of the sort of
place you could get them from and what it would cost. Within the
aquarium hobby the Florida Flagfish (Jordanella floridae) is the
only Pupfish routinely sold. Basic care is similar though it is a
freshwater to slightly brackish water fish, and unlike Cyprinodon
variegatus, Jordanella floridae is generally more peaceful and
both sexes are nicely coloured. Cheers, Neale.>
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Re: Betta temperature, and
10/2/10
Alas, I have no basement, but fortunately the temperature spike we
experienced was only due to a bad blower motor on the air conditioner,
not a regular occurrence.
<Oh, I see.>
Desert goby looks like a fun option. I may try to locate some to keep
in an unheated tank. They are not on the Arizona Fish and Game
restricted species list, so it's only a question of finding
some.
<Arizona does of course have some fantastic desert fish of its own,
including various Pupfish species like the Devil's Hole pupfish,
Cyprinodon diabolis. But I fear many of these are
threatened with extinction in the wild, so may or may not be suitable
choices for home aquaria. You might ask around the fish clubs or local
universities to find out if there are captive populations available
from which you might you take a few. The irony with desert fish
generally is that as species they're usually very hardy and breed
extremely rapidly, but their habitats are being taken away from them,
and even the toughest fish can't cope with a bulldozer flattening
their habitat or removal of local water courses that cause their ponds
to dry up completely. That we have fish that live in deserts should be
the sort of thing we celebrate as a sign of how amazing Nature can
be'¦ and yet they're amongst the least familiar and least
protected animals on the planet.>
I saw you have a goby article in the November issue TFH. I looking
forward to reading it.
<Hope you enjoy it. The Desert Goby is featured in there, I think as
my #1 Goby!>
Regarding the small planted tank, I added some Hydrocotyle
sibthripoides, a crown tail Betta, and two Amano shrimp. All seem very
happy in their new home. (If I tell Bob F that I did not buy the Betta
in a cup of blue water, he will know where in phoenix I bought
them.)
<Oh!>
Cheers,
Rick
<Cheers indeed, Neale.>
Re: Betta temperature, now... 10/5/10
Cyprinodon diabolis appears to be extremely
endangered, with one source (Virginia Tech dated 2006) stating only 40
wild specimens remaining.
<Very sad.>
I'm guessing they might be a bit hard to come by, but I will
definitely keep my eyes open for them.
<Good luck. Even if this species isn't available, other
Southwestern killifish species might be. But honestly, I don't
know. There is presumably an American killifish association or club,
and they may be able to share
with you information on these species.>
I've wanted to keep Endler's livebearers simply to help keep
them around.
Devils Hole Pupfish might be another one if I can find any captive
population.
<Indeed. There are several aquarium species that no longer exist in
the wild. I've got Ameca splendens here at home, a nifty if
aggressive livebearer.>
Rick
<Cheers, Neale.>
For Neale (Cyprinodon of Nevada) 10/8/10
Thought you might find this of interest.
http://www.azgfd.gov/w_c/edits/documents/Cyprmacu.fo_000.pdf
--
Rick
<Interesting. Does sound as if there are some captive populations,
which is good to know. Fascinating fish. Sadly, the European killifish
aren't in much better shape thanks to the same intense pressures on
water and real estate in sunny but dry parts of the world. Do research
the Desert Fishes Council, which I suspect you'll find publishes
some interesting stuff.
Cheers, Neale.>
Florida flag fish in with chicklids
7/10/10
Hi there,
We have two florida flag fish
<A subtropical fish.>
in a 50- gallon tank with chicklids
<Cichlid, as in "sick lid"...>
we added a couple of parrot chicklids tonight and one of the flag fish
keeps pushing the one parrot fish around
<Yes, it's what they do.>
...doesn't seem to be nipping at them just rubbing up against and
almost like herding it into other areas or against the tank...Why is
this?
<The sarcastic answer is "because you shouldn't be keeping
them together"!
What I mean by that is they have no overlap at all in terms of
requirements and behaviour. Florida Flagfish need subtropical
conditions, 18 C/64 F is about the ideal, and are territorial and
potentially fin-nippers. They work
best on their own or with fast-moving cool water fish, Swordtails or
Rosy Barbs for example. Parrot Cichlids are of course hybrids, and
deformed, handicapped ones at that. The people who bred them didn't
give any thought at all to the well-being of these cichlids, and
consequently while their brains tell them they're territorial,
semi-aggressive fish, their bodies just can't handle that kind of
life. As we say in England, "all mouth and no trousers" if
that makes any sense to you. Parrot Cichlids are an easy target for
nippy fish, and mustn't be kept with them. Bottom line, these two
fish need to be separated. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Florida flag fish in with
chicklids 7/11/10
Thank you so much for your help :-)
we will separate them asap :-)
<Cool. Glad to help. Cheers, Neale.>
Possible fin-nipper? - 06/27/07 Well.... Along
with the Rainbow fish, I added 1 American Flagfish (male), I have a
female on order. I did read that they can be territorial, but I've
watched him interact with the other fish, and while he will chase them
away from his preferred location, there's no nipping and it seems
quite harmless. He's the only possible culprit, but again, he seems
harmless (when I'm watching him). I've wanted a Flagfish for
some time as the Otos weren't touching some of the algae and
Flagfish have a reputation for eating algae that no one else likes. If
you think he's the culprit, will he settle down and change his
fin-nipping ways (would a female companion help) or should I return him
to the shop. I've only had him in the tank for 5 days and he does
live-up to his reputation as an algae eater... he's quite a cute
little guy. Thank you and regards, Michelle <Aha, the plot thinnens.
My guess is the Flagfish is to blame. They have been reported to be
fin-nippers. Not consistently, but frequently enough that I'd be
cautious about keeping them in a community tank. They are, as you say,
lovely fish and excellent algae eaters (they enjoy hair algae in
particular). Now, there are two ways to approach this. One is to remove
him and see if things settle down. The other is to build up a fair size
group of them, so they concentrate on one another rather than the other
fish. This is the way it works with tiger barbs -- more tiger barbs you
keep, the less nippy them become. A tough choice. The problem with
nippiness in fish is it isn't always consistent. I keep pufferfish
in a community tank, and although they did nip the Corydoras, once I
removed the Corydoras, they've been good as gold. Some species of
fish maybe attract the attention of nippers. Corydoras seem to be real
targets because they are slow and blunder into territories. They also
seem to very stupid, and don't learn to avoid threats. In the
meantime you do need to treat the fish with damaged fins before
infection sets it. Cheers, Neale>
Re: possible fin-nipper? -- 06/29/07 > Hello
Neale, Just wanted to say thank you. I know they're not the
brightest, but Corys are such cute little guys, mine "groom"
each other. I fear I'll be overstocked if I add too many more
Flagfish. I'll watch for another week & see how it goes. The
good news is the damaged tissue is growing back: I've been treating
with Maracyn II and Melafix. So all is better for now. Thank you again.
Michelle <Cool. Sometimes fin-nipping stops when the fish settle in.
Perhaps the new fish are just hungry or annoyed? So if the other fish
are healing up nicely then perhaps they've learned to avoid the
nipper. Keep an eye on things though. I agree, Corydoras are the best!
Make sure you have a go at breeding them -- baby Corydoras are cute
beyond words. Cheers, Neale.>
Coralline algae growth/20 Gal pupfish
tank: 2/16/07 In my pupfish tank there is red
coralline algae starting to grow and spread all over the artificial
corals I have in there. Since they are artificial, over time
will this be a problem? <Nope> Thank you so much for
your advice/comments. Regards, Debra P. <Thank you for
sharing. BobF>
Pupfish With Goiter? 1/11/07 Hi
Crew, <Debra> I have a 20 gallon long saltwater tank housing
pupfish, what I believe to be Cyprinodon variegatus.
<Mmm: http://fishbase.org/Summary/speciesSummary.php?ID=3181&genusname=Cyprinodon&speciesname=variegatus+variegatus>
I acquired them when my brother had to move and said he had some
"saltwater fish" that he was going to flush (yes down the
toilet) if he couldn't find someone to take them.
<Poor practice, attitude> I later learned he was
offered the 55 gallon tank for free and these fish came with
it. I had an empty 20 gallon tank which I planned to set
up for saltwater so I agreed (sight unseen) to take them (visions
of the typical saltwater fish you see at the LFS danced through my
head as I headed to his house to collect them.) <Some surprise
now!> It took me over two weeks to ID them on the
internet. The conditions the fish were kept were to say
the least very poor. The only maintenance he said
he performed in the 4 months of having the fish was water top offs
(tapwater treated with dechlorinator) and the lights were only
occasionally turned on. The gravel was filthy, the water
reeked of tobacco smoke so I opted to start anew and unfortunately
put the fish through a cycle. The LFS (I no longer use)
after selling me all the equipment they thought I needed, told me
to "...do nothing..." and "...I might lose more than
half the fish." <I do hope they fold... soon> About
halfway through I learned about fishless cycling and products like
BioSpira, Stability and Right Now! which I utilized all at some
point to bring the tank under control. I did lose a few fish but
they were fish in very poor condition when I acquired
them. I later learned more about live rock and started
adding that to the tank as well (from new LFS). I have a
total of 15 pupfish of which four are new babies. well not babies
now, only one has not reached maturity yet. He/she
is about 2 months. The salinity is kept at 1.021
to 1.022 <I would keep this egg-laying toothed carps somewhere
more "middling" in spg... 1.010 myself> set up with
live sand and live rock. It has a clean up crew of blue
legged & red legged hermit crabs and snails consisting of
Cerith, Nerite, one Margarita and one hitchhiking bumble bee snail;
some bristleworms and I've seen a couple Brittlestars.
<Cancel the above... need to keep the spg near where you have it
for this other life> I utilize a Prizm skimmer which
I eventually plan to replace (now that I have a Tunze DOC Nano in
my 10 gallon and can see a big difference in how skimmers should
work) <Oh yes> and a Bio-wheel 150 filter with two filter
pads. Ammonia, nitrite & nitrate are
0. About 8 cup water change daily. After
researching the site I think one of my pupfish may have a
goiter. Attached is a picture for your
comment. She is in the center of the picture and you can
see the lump just under her right eye. <Mmm... rather than a
goiter, I suspect this is evidence of some sort of tumorous
growth... or parasitic mass... not endocrinologically linked...
Only able to discern through necropsy, microscopic examination>
Tonight I'm noticing some redness on the lower part of the
lump. Although I had not been monitoring or adding
iodine I started last night using Salifert's Natural
Iodine. I also use this in my 10 gallon tank.
<Good> The reason for using Salifert's
Natural Iodine is when I added some Kent's iodine to the 10
gallon tank and then tested the water using a Salifert Iodine test
kit I could not get a reading. <Yes... this is one of Kent's
poorer products...> After switching to
Salifert's Natural Iodine I can get iodide readings but still
cannot get a reading on the combined iodate/iodine test. <This
is a transient valence state...> At this point I'm not sure
if it's me or I'm not adding enough iodine supplement.
<Best to test... not to over-dose> Throughout the site
Lugol's seems to be the preferred iodine supplement. <Mmm...
only due to its easy availability> Will the Salifert test kit
easily read the Lugol's iodine levels in the water or is
another test kit needed? <It will read sufficiently to give
indication of presence of useful amounts of this element> Why is
Lugol's preferred over other Iodine supplements? If
this is a goiter she has, how much iodine do you soak the food in?
<Very little... Iodine/ate will/can be absorbed sufficiently
through the water> Should I place their food in a teaspoon and
just add a couple drops of iodine? <A drop will likely be more
than enough... and much of any may make foods unpalatable> They
are fed twice daily a variation of Formula One flakes or frozen
Formula One, Spirulina, or rolled seaweed on a clip. If
adding iodine to the food, should I also continue to add iodine to
the water and of course monitor it with testing? <Yes>
The current level for iodide is .03, but as stated
earlier I can't seem to get an iodate reading. <Not to
worry...> Will the addition of iodine to their food have any
negative affects on the invertebrates or the smaller pupfish?
<Overdose exposure could, yes> In other words, is there any
chance of an overdose? <Yes, though small> On another note,
from what I've read in the wild the typical lifespan for
pupfish is approximately one year. Do you have any
knowledge of how long they may live in captivity? <Yes... a few
years... as shown in the fishbase.org link above... maximum
longevity is about 4.4 years in the wild> In my
research all I've found is "...can live longer in an
aquarium setting." but nothing definitive. They
have wonderful, spunky, playful personalities... but I keep hoping
for no more babies! Thank you so much, Debra Piedra
<Do post what you have in the way of young on the Internet, ask
your local stores if they'd like to sell... Bob Fenner> |
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Ameca splendens "fainting" Hi Bob: Thank you for
letting me put some of your articles on my web site Aquarticles, which
has now been done. Now I have "discovered" you, I find I have
a question!- I wrote a piece about the Butterfly Goodeid Ameca
splendens, (Fish Breeding/Three Unusual Livebearers) in which I mention
a curious habit they have, of "fainting" as soon as they are
caught in a net - they lay on their side as if dead, but come to life
again immediately upon release. This is not cause by stress or
over-exertion, since it happens even if they are caught with the first
dip of the net. It is particularly noticeable with younger fish. Has
this reflex been written about anywhere? <Likely so... do know of
this "reflex defensive mechanism" with "baby birds"
like Chickens (Gallus)... thought to have "survival value"
for the individuals/species in avoiding predation... Don't recall
such being recorded about Goodeids... Would do a library/computer
search on the species, behavior:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/litsrchart.htm> Does it have a name?
<Probably... but I don't know it, yet> Do any other species
do this? <Assuredly yes... many species young that have slow neural
development... neoteny... "faint" with certain types of
stimulation...> What could be its advantage in nature? <Imagine
being a snake, coming up on a palatable meal/organism, having it,
instead of "running away", faint on the spot... you might
well "leave it alone", continue in search of other prey...
Or, imagine circumstances that might "scare to death" an
individual Ameca splendens or likely cause its demise from struggling
(like scraping its skin in a net...). The individuals, species that
"pass out" might be more likely to survive, pass on their
genes, including the disposition to hard wire behavior stated... than
ones without> I would like to add more info. to my article. I posed
the question in the newsgroup alt.aquaria but got no satisfactory
answers. Sincerely, Howard Norfolk, Aquarticles.com <Be chatting.
Bob Fenner>
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