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Of all that goes into configuring a viable (to
optimal) saltwater set-up, nothing is more poorly understood or hotly
debated amongst hobbyists than lighting. Judging by the queries we
receive on WetWebMedia.com, and exhaustive visits experiencing said
systems in person, there are large gaps in people's understandings
of what their options are, the gains/losses to be had in
efficiency/results, and indeed, simple actions they might take to
improve on what they have invested.
Here
I am going to undertake to list and explain the principal elements of
applied lighting'¦ including general categories of fixturing,
the range and use of light by photosynthetic life forms hobbyists may
keep, a go at having you determine what it is you want to do with this
life, and the aforementioned 'things you can do' to improve
results from your costs in gear and ongoing electrical
consumption. Is There ONE Perfect Lighting System'¦
As in the BEST?
Mmm,
no; there's not. GIVEN a tank of certain dimensions, a
selection/mix of livestock, a budget for initial set-up and ongoing
costs of operation, your subjective evaluation of what is beautiful,
AND an idea of what you're trying to do with your
livestock'¦ grow it maximally, have it be the most colorful...
there are still a range of choices. Be that stated, some general
'rules' to consider as guidelines:
Costs of Lighting vs. Useful Photonic
Energy
The
cheapest type/source is 'none at all''¦ i.e. either
just incidental insolation (sunlight) or the use of non-photosynthetic
life. Though many of the 'corals' (sensu dictu of hobbyists)
are photosynthetic (along with many sponges, some molluscs like
Tridacnids, other groups'¦), there is a huge range of not-much
to fully non-photosynthetic soft, hard et al. 'corals' that
can/do quite well w/o supplementary light.
For
the sake of our keeping captive aquatics though, our being
visually-oriented beings ourselves, almost all captive systems will be
artificially illuminated. What is at question is what to use, how
expensive it will be to buy and run, and what sorts of effects the
lighting will have. There are a few standard choices of fixtures with
options as to lamps/bulbs, ballasting, timers and more.
Photosynthetic Life: Definition, Differences,
Adaptability
Organisms that can/do use light energy to form useful foods are labeled
photosynthetic life or photosynthates. The compounds these organisms
use for converting light energy to chemical changes are most often
termed photosynthetic pigments; these pigments are generally contained
within endosymbiotic algal life called zooxanthellae.
There are several types of said photosynthetic pigments (Chlorophylls ,
Carotenoids et al.), of differing make-up, each with a determined range
of utility, given the wavelengths and photo-strength of light it
receives. These pigments, like the cells, organelles that contain them,
are not static in their content, but can be and are made and lost to
'fit' given conditions. Is More Light (Intensity) or Higher Kelvin or
Spectrum More Important?
A
bit of all these measures of light quantity and quality are important;
no one more so in the absence of the others. The Intensity, most often
discussed in terms of wattage (a measure of electrical force,
consumption) may be inadequate to overbearing (see below). The analogy
of having enough 'power' to drive a mechanism is apt, but not
so much as to 'bust it'. Of importance is not whether one
needs so many 'watts per gallon' but how many lumens per watt
one is getting per watt consumed, delivering to ones livestock with a
given, appropriate light source; using a moderate amount of
power.
Kelvin, a measure of light radiated relative to the temperature of a
black body source, is much over-discussed in the aquarium interest.
Functionally, as one might presume, Kelvin temperatures similar to our
sun's production measured at reception (5,600-6,400 K) are most
useful. The higher Kelvin lamps (10k, 20k'¦K) being more for
appreciation (i.e. 'looks') by/for aquarists rather than
utility unless your tank is (for hobbyists) very deep. In cases where
light-using life will be in 24-30 or inches more of water depth, higher
Kelvin ratings (8-10k) may be desirable. It should be mentioned that
employing higher K lighting can also result in higher RedOx, improved
overall system and livestock health as well.
Spectrum is important. Many types of lamps/fixtures produce light that
is of little use to submerged photosynthetic life. As stated above, the
actual pigments involved in the process/es of photosynthesis are able
to best utilize light w/in certain (received) spectral wavelengths.
PUR, Photosynthetically Useful Radiation (400-560 and 620-700
nanometers) being ideal. Light Fixtures: Cost Per Function Up
Front and Ongoing:
Presently there exists a direct relationship between cost of
acquisition and operation of light fixture types as a function of their
production of useful photonic energy'¦ Incandescents, T-12s
(e.g. 'shop lights'), High/er Output Fluorescents, Compact
Fluorescents, SHO, VHO T-5's on down, HQI/Metal Halides and
evolving LED technologies in order all make less to more PAR per
dollar spent on their fixtures and electrical consumption. This is
however not the end of factors to consider in choosing one way of
lighting over another. Currently, HQI/Metal Halides are best at
'punching' light to depth (over 24' of water let's
say), and still further consideration must be given to consequences of
using light sources due to their production of waste heat and sometimes
undesirable UV wavelengths of light'¦
And
even this isn't the end of co-factors one need contend with. IF
over-driving photosynthesis is desired, achieved, other aspects of
metabolism must be handled in concert'¦ The 'law of the
minim' states that there is always some aspect, some rate-limiting
step to every reaction series. Should light itself not be this
rate-limiter, alkaline reserve, biomineral lack, perhaps other forms of
chemical (e.g. Carbon, Nitrate, Phosphate) or biological food
will be. Blue/Actinic Light Efficacy/Utility: An Effort
At Describing & Rating
More
for looks than function, the lower end spectra (400 ish nm) that is the
target/range of this lighting is often touted as being necessarily
supplied by special lamps'¦ This is assuredly not the case; as
enough of these wavelengths are almost always produced by other
sources'¦ However, if you're determined to use such lamps
(though your system, livestock would be better off using just more
'white light''¦) you are encouraged to utilize timers,
having the 'blue light' come on and go off a half to full hour
ahead of the 'regular' lighting. Can There Be Too Much Light?
Yes'¦ for light-using life in the acclimated and sustained
sense, there is the issue of saturation. A point in which more light
does no more good (driving electron transfer'¦) and may harm
the organism. Maximum lux (a lumen per square meter, a measure of light
intensity'¦ determined by a meter), should be no more than
that of the wild reefs (110,000-120,000 lux at the surface, about
20,000 to 25,000 lux at a meter of depth'¦), this light being
of useful wavelengths (PAR: Photosynthetically Active
Radiation'¦ light between the wavelengths of 400-700
nanometers. What (Mal) Affects Light Transmission &
Usage?
1) Dissolved color can be a
very important reducer of light transmission. These losses can exceed
10-20% of possible production. Using a good grade of activated carbon
on a punctuated basis, assuring high RedOx potential is useful for
reducing color.
2) Suspended particles and
bubbles likewise can block light'¦ They can be eliminated
through sieving out such through mechanical filtration, arranging for
bubbles to coalesce, be popped or removed from the main/display
tank.
3) Dirty lamps and tops can
also be a major source of light loss. A good idea to add their cleaning
(before lights on) on your weekly cleaning schedule.
4) Reflectors can greatly add
to your lighting efficiency. Do look about for reports on the best
available to direct light output down, into your system.
5) Old lamps/bulbs. They may
still 'look bright' but lumen depreciation (6-9 mo.s bulb life
in general for ½; LEDs last much longer) and spectral drift
with time/use render all lamps/bulbs less and less useful. Mark their
inception date in your log-book, list of aquarium facts, and switch
them out on schedule.
6) Backgrounds can be
important. Take care not to adhere them too closely to backs and sides
of tanks, as the light 'bouncing' from the interface twixt your
glass or acrylic and the background (rather than air) can greatly
reduce total light availability.
7) Organism placement in the
water column is extremely important, particularly for
'wild-collected' stocks. By and large, the highest light-using
life should be placed as close to the surface as practical; with lower
use species being set minimally deeper. Here I will mention the
importance of 'light acclimation' of reef-collected
specimens'¦ they are best kept in increasingly
'brighter' circumstances while being quarantined Cloze: So, what is the 'right' or even perfect
lighting system, choice? It depends'¦ on the types of life you
keep/intend, what you hope to have them do (growth, color,
reproduction'¦), what you have to spend up front on gear
(fixtures, lamps/bulb, possibly fans/chillers), ongoing for
electricity, and do degrees your desire/tolerance for 'fooling'
with all this. Think on what has been stated above'¦ and be
conscious when choosing your system'¦ size, shape'¦
and determining (through planning and action) what life forms you will
keep, what you have in mind for expression'¦ Thorough-enough
investigation of ones choices, short and longer term, the cursory use
of light metering, care to maximize ones results per cost should be
customary practice. Bibliography/Further
Reading: Joshi, Sanjay, 2006. Facts of Light. http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-05/sj/index.php Riddle, Dana & Miguel Olaizola, 2002.
Lighting the Reef Aquarium - Spectrum or Intensity?, http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2002/2/aafeature Strohmeyer, Carl, 2009. Aquarium Lighting.
http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Lighting.html
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