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Giant Clams have been cultured for the hobby for about thirty years and
times before and currently (unfortunately) wild-collected. This family
of Mollusks has an assortment of size species that occur in a myriad of
colors. Liking reef-quality conditions, they are not hard to keep;
providing sufficient nutrition directly and via photosynthesis, avoiding
pests, parasites and predators; keeping water quality stable and
optimized for their use. This being stated, many Tridacnids are
too-easily lost. This survey article is my attempt to provide the
highlights for successful husbandry of these Bivalves.
Many
Tridacnids (Family Tridacnidae ARE the giant clams) are lost due to
starting too small/stressed/starved, being placed with inappropriate
tankmates, and kept in too-chemically-clean and/or mineral-deprived
systems.
Selecting: Three requirements
1)
Aquacultured: Don’t buy
wild collected Tridacnids unless that’s all that is available… They are
almost always inferior to captive-produced; too often have unwanted
hitchhiking pests; and are FAR more likely to perish due to stress, poor
adaptation to aquarium conditions.
2)
Size Matters: Just like
the Goldilocks/Tres Bears and porridge temp. story, there are definitely
Clams that are too small, and on the other end of the scale too large.
BEWARE of tiny clams… ones below two inches or so die like proverbial
flies. Reciprocally, large clams don’t ship all that well, and are quite
expensive… so, you want to purchase yours between two plus and four
minus shell width ideally.
3)
Health: Obviously you want
to avoid unhealthy specimens. Ascertaining which to buy in this regard
requires knowledge, keen observation and patience. You NEED to know what
non-diseased Clams look like and how they behave (see diseases below)…
and CAREFULLY look over prospective purchases; scrutinizing ALL
individuals in the tank, or the entire sub-system of tanks if they are
tied together plumbing-wise. Beware of obviously pinched mantles,
animals that aren’t open/ing, ones that don’t respond to shadows and
changing currents near them.
Top Tridacnids Used in the Hobby/Trade:
Tridacna derasa, Tridacna squamosa and
Hippopus hippopus are the hardiest members of Tridacnids for
aquarium use; though a few others do come into the market at times.
Giant clams are mostly identified on the basis of shell
characteristics, shape/symmetry, ribs/folds/scutes, the shell halves
upper margin and presence and characteristics of their byssus
(attachment organ at the base) Hippopus hippopus: Horse’s
Hoof, Bear Paw… Clam:
Very thick shell with prominent ribs
Tridacna crocea: Boring (as
in burrowing) Clam:
Smallest Tridacnid used at six inches maximum
Tridacna derasa: Southern Giant or Smooth Giant Clam
Derasas are the hardiest and most widely available of Tridacnids.
Tridacna maxima
Maxima clams have elongated shells that lack symmetry.
Tridacna squamosa: Scaled Clam
The common name is in reference to having large scutes over its
symmetrical shell.
Stocking:
Photo-adaptation is critical, particularly for small/er specimens. Often
you can’t tell just how much light quality, intensity and duration your
clam/s have become used to ahead of your acquiring them. The best course
of action for you and your new Tridacnids here is to start off with
lower values of all three measures of light and increase them over a few
weeks’ time. IF you don’t have lighting that’s easy to adjust in terms
of brightness, nor depth that allows you to place the clam/s lower;
consider using layers of shade-cloth to shield a percentage of incipient
light.
Compatibility: Some fishes and invertebrates
are sure to possible no-no’s to keep with Tridacnids. Many mid-size to
larger Wrasses will nibble on their mantles. Triggers may eat all soft
parts up with glee; and larger fishes period like groupers and morays
are so unaware of their environment that they may knock your clams off
their perches. Butterflyfishes, Angels and others may cross the line and
start picking on your clams. Similarly large crustaceans like crabs and
lobsters, and even some shrimps can prove troublesome; bugging the clams
by walking over and outright sampling them. Stinging-celled life; aka
“corals” to most hobbyists, can sting Clams. Keep them a good foot or
more away to prevent sweeper tentacle contact.
What is the “cost of freedom”? Answer: Constant vigilance. Even
with careful selection, starting with smaller tankmates it is critical
that you keep a sharp eye out for developing trouble.
System: As mentioned above; Tridacnids require
reef-system conditions; including water quality, currents, lighting and
feeding; both chemical and biological/particulate.
Make it Used: Established, optimized set ups are necessary. It
may take half a year or more to be sure you’re ready for a clam. The
healthy production of encrusting red algae is a good indication of
readiness.
Biominerals and More: Healthy Tridacnid Clams are very big users
of biominerals; you will need to monitor and very likely adjust the
concentrations of Calcium (380-450 ppm); Magnesium (about three times
your Calcium concentration) and Strontium (6-10 ppm; no more) for their
health. Bear in mind that elevated temperature and intense lighting can
greatly boost the uptake of these alkaline earth elements. Best to
incorporate a working “calcium reactor” using media that melts down to
provide all; or pre-mix and use dried/concentrated supplements for ready
use.
Biomineral content will do you no good without matching alkalinity; 8-12
dKH is an ideal range for these animals and all other reef life.
Iodine (actually –ide, -ate) is an essential micro-nutrient as well. You
want 0.04-0.08 ppm present; though in actual practice adding a dose
every week, along with water changes will very likely suffice.
Placement: Where you put these animals is very
important. Note from the scant species coverage above that some live on
amongst or on rock, others on the sand/substrate. There’s more to
this simple difference however. The amount of light should be measured
and added to if necessary, the animals placed lower in the water column
or light-screened if too intense. Place your Tridacnids to face up
toward the light.
Circulation needs to be considered as well, and these animals
prefer moderate (5-10 times turnover where they are) per hour or so; not
too little/stagnant, nor too brisk. In particular beware of placing
clams in direct pump blast of water movement.
Foods/Feeding/Nutrition:
Small clams (under two inches across; that you should be avoiding) do
need direct supplemental feeding. Larger specimens should do fine on
photosynthesis along with incidental food from your feeding other
livestock and life originating in the system (DSB, LR, LS). There are
some commercial clam food products and promoters of their use (the same
folks for the most part) that you can offer your clams if you’re so
inclined, concerned that they’re not getting sufficient nutrient.
There is a deficiency syndrome we should mention as it is in particular,
a common mortality cause of captive clams et al. chemo-photo-synthetic
life. Many reef systems are kept “too clean” via the use of chemical
filtrants… removing all measureable nitrate, soluble phosphate and more
from the water; denying absolutely essential elements. These animals
NEED some NO3 and HPO4 present to live. IF you must use chemical
filtrants, do so sparingly and on a punctuated basis (on/off) every few
days; ALWAYS assuring there is some measurable nitrate and phosphate.
Disease/Health: Tridacnids are one of only a
few groups of marine invertebrates that “give signs” that something is
going wrong. A lack of responsiveness, gaping, or loss of color are
prompts for you to be checking water quality, doing water changes;
possibly adding nutrients to the water.
Browning out, or loss of mantle color is often due to aging light bulbs,
but can be sign of a nutrient or biomineral deficiency.
Clam Pests & Predators: Many pests and
predators are attracted to Tridacnids. Boring sponges, segmented worms (Errantiate
polychaetes), crabs, predatory mollusks (snails) and flatworms are
commonly caught preying on Tridacna. Most can be observed through
careful observation and removed recommended. Pyram, Murex and
Costellarid snails often prey on such clams. The Pryamidellid snails are
perhaps the most common, prolific and tedious, if not difficult, to
eradicate due to their small size and camouflage coloration. Natural
predators, such as smaller species of wrasses, can be helpful for
reducing the population of such predators, but none can be assured of
providing complete protection.
The best means of their control is of course avoiding introduction
period. This can be assured by purchasing cultured specimens IF these
have not been housed in a system that also harbours wild individuals.
Better by far to be safe than later sorry; by doing your own isolation
of new purchases for a few weeks; particularly if dealing in wild
stocks. I should state that the need for quarantine also applies to live
rock, live sand, actually any other source of life with hard substrate
involved that has been wild-extracted or come in contact with the same.
Cloze:
Mention other species and hybrids.
Giant clams are not only beautiful, but they are beneficial to
captive systems; removing ammonia, nitrate, phosphate and other organic
materials in the course of their filter feeding and photosynthesis.
Make the effort to find and choose captive produced over wild-collected
specimens. Most of the Tridacnid clams found in the ornamental trade are
cultured, although some still extracted from nature. Aquacultured
animals are much more likely to excel; they are easier to acclimate for
having been farmed in captive conditions and transported with fewer
traumas.
Pay attention to your clam/s… Most issues are water quality related and
show early in non-opening, tired looking mantles. Be quick with checking
your water, changing some out and adding a double dose of iodide/ate and
all should be well.
Giant clams are from the family of Tridacnidae, and come in an
assortment of different sizes and colors. They have been cultured for
the hobby for about 30 years, but unfortunately, they are also still
collected from the wild.
This family of mollusks enjoys reef-quality conditions and are not
hard to keep, but you must provide sufficient nutrition directly and via
photosynthesis; avoid keeping pests, parasites and predators with them;
and maintain stable water quality.
Many Tridacnids are lost due to selecting specimens that are too
small, stressed or starved from the beginning; being placed with
inappropriate tankmates; and being kept in water that is chemically
stripped or devoid of minerals.
This article will provide the highlights for successful husbandry
so that you may increase your chances of success with these beautiful
bivalves.
Choose Well
1.
Go Aquacultured Don’t
buy wild-collected Tridacnids unless that’s all that is available.
Wild-caught specimens are almost always inferior to captive-produced.
Too often they have unwanted hitchhiking pests and are more likely to
perish due to stress and poor adaptation to aquarium conditions.
2.
Size Matters Beware
of tiny clams -- those below 2 inches or so die like proverbial flies.
Conversely, large clams don’t ship all that well, and are quite
expensive. Purchase clams between 2 and 4 inches in shell width.
3.
Healthy Choices
Obviously, you want to avoid unhealthy specimens. Ascertaining which to
buy in this regard requires knowledge, keen observation and patience.
You need to know what healthy clams look like and how they behave (see
diseases below). Look over prospective purchases carefully and
scrutinize all individuals in the tank, or the entire sub-system of
tanks if they are tied together plumbing-wise. Beware of obviously
pinched mantles, animals that aren’t opening and those that don’t
respond to shadows and changing currents near them. Most of all, beware
of gapers! Gapers are indicated by a stretched appearance or
splaying of the animal’s shell halves, as well as the inhalant siphon
(the larger opening on the mantle of this filter-feeder) appearing to be
open particularly wide and non-responsive.
Top Tridacnids
Tridacna derasa, Tridacna squamosa and
Hippopus hippopus are the hardiest members of Tridacnids for
aquarium use, but a few others do come into the market at times.
Giant clams are mostly identified on the basis of shell
characteristics (shape, symmetry, ribs, folds and scutes), the shell
halves upper margin, and the presence and characteristics of their
byssus (attachment organ at the base). Horse’s hoof / bear paw clam
(Hippopus hippopus)
• Very thick shell with prominent ribs.
(Temperature, pH and alkalinity requirements for this species?)
Boring (as in burrowing) clam
(Tridacna crocea)
• Smallest Tridacnid used at 6 inches maximum. (What do you mean by
smallest used? That people should not select one smaller than 6 inches?
Or they don’t come in sizes smaller than 6 inches?)
<Three inches is ideal… too much smaller ones are very touchy and
larger cost too much>
<The clam produces and releases the acid to help bore the hole in
the rock to live within. The shell opening/closing helps grind the
opening>
(Temperature, pH and alkalinity requirements for this species?)
<The same as stated above… Calcium 350-400, Magnesium at about
three times the concentration>
Southern giant /
smooth giant clam (Tridacna derasa)
• Derasas are the hardiest and most widely available of
Tridacnids.
(Temperature, pH and alkalinity requirements for this species?)
<Ditto>
Tridacna maxima
• Maxima clams have elongated shells that lack symmetry.
<The byssal threads are easily broken and crushed by dropping,
placing the clam on a hard surface… s/b placed on a PVC pipe pedestal>
(Temperature, pH and alkalinity requirements for this species?)
<As stated: Reef conditions>
Scaled clam (Tridacna
squamosa)
• The common name is in reference to having large scutes all over its
symmetrical shell.
(Temperature, pH and alkalinity requirements for this species?)
Stocking
Photo-adaptation is critical, particularly for smaller specimens. Often,
you can’t tell just how much light quality, intensity and duration your
clams have become accustomed to before you acquired them. The best
course of action for you and your new Tridacnids is to start off with
lower values of all three measures of light (What are the three measures
of light? Suggest appropriate starting values for each.)
<Permanent PAR values of 100-200 are about right; best measured w/
a meter at depth>
and increase them over a few weeks. If you don’t have lighting
that’s easy to adjust in terms of brightness, nor depth that allows you
to place the clams lower, consider using layers of shade-cloth to shield
a percentage of incipient light.
Some fish and invertebrates should not be kept with tridacnids.
Many mid-size to larger wrasses will nibble on their mantles. Triggers
may eat all soft parts up with glee; and larger fish, such as groupers
and morays, may knock your clams off their perches. Butterflyfish,
angels and others may cross the line and start picking on your clams.
Similarly, large crustaceans like crabs and lobsters, and even some
shrimps, can prove troublesome, harassing the clams by walking over them
or picking at them. Stinging-celled life, such as some corals, can sting
clams. Keep them a good foot or more away to prevent sweeper tentacle
contact.
Even with careful selection and starting with smaller tankmates,
it is critical that you keep a sharp eye out for developing trouble.
System Setup
As mentioned above, Tridacnids require reef-system conditions,
including water quality, currents, lighting and feeding -- both chemical
and biological/particulate.
Established, optimized setups are necessary. It may take half a
year or more to be sure you’re ready for a clam. The healthy production
of encrusting red algae is a good indication of readiness.
Must-Have Minerals
Healthy tridacnid clams are big users of biominerals. You will
need to monitor and very likely adjust the concentrations of calcium
(380-450 ppm), magnesium (about three times your calcium concentration)
and strontium (6-10 ppm; no more) for their health. Bear in mind that
elevated temperature and intense lighting can greatly boost the uptake
of these alkaline earth elements. Best to incorporate a working “calcium
reactor” using media that melts down to provide all (as in all of the
minerals mentioned – calcium, magnesium and strontium, or to just
provide all the calcium your clam needs?)
<Using “reef” based media; all three biominerals can and will be
supplied in proportion. Otherwise folks can use specific supplements>
or pre-mix and use dried/concentrated supplements.
Biomineral content won’t do you any good without matching
alkalinity. An ideal range for these animals and all other reef life is
8-12 dKH.
Iodine is an essential micronutrient as well. You want 0.04-0.08
ppm present, but in actual practice, adding a dose every week along with
water changes will very likely suffice.
Appropriate Placement
Where you put these animals is important. As I mentioned
previously, some live among or on rock, and others on the
sand/substrate; however, there’s more to this simple difference. How
light reaches these places must be considered. Measure the amount of
light and be sure to add to if necessary for the animals placed lower in
the water column. Always place your Tridacnids to face up toward the
light. Conversely, be careful not to provide so much light that your
tridacnid becomes stressed and rarely opens its shell. (I added this. Is
it OK? If so, how can you measure to make sure there isn’t too much
light? )
<Ah yes; fine. And you can measure PAR/PUR with a meter; borrowed
from an LFS, club or purchased>
Circulation needs to be considered as well. These animals prefer
moderate (five to 10 times) water turnover per hour. Beware of placing
clams in the path of a direct pump blast of water movement as this can
cause them stress. Nutrition
Needs
Small clams, which you should avoid if less than 2 inches across,
need direct supplemental feeding. Larger specimens should do fine on
photosynthesis along with incidental food from your feeding other
livestock and life originating in the system (DSB, LR, LS – what do
these abbreviations stand for?).
<Deep Sand Bed, Live Rock, Live Sand>
There are some commercial clam food products that you can offer
your clams if you’re concerned that they’re not getting sufficient
nutrients.
There is a deficiency syndrome we should mention, as it is a
common mortality cause of captive clams and other chemo-photo-synthetic
life. Many reef systems are kept “too clean” via the use of chemical
filtrants (should this be filters or no?),
<Mmm; no; just as is: filtrants… these are media>
removing all measureable nitrate, soluble phosphate and more from
the water. This process, unfortunately, also removes essential elements
(minerals?)
<Just as is: elements>
in the process. These animals need some nitrate and hydrogen
phosphate present to live. (How does it help them?)
<Numerous ways metabolically; but w/o, can’t form, add shell mass>
If you must use chemical filtrants, do so sparingly and on a
punctuated basis (on/off) every few days. Always make sure there is some
measurable nitrate and phosphate left.
SIDEBAR: Watch for Health Problems
Tridacnids are one of only a few groups of marine invertebrates
that “give signs” that something is wrong. A lack of responsiveness,
gaping or color loss are prompts for you to check water quality, perform
water changes and possibly add nutrients to the water.
Browning out, or loss of mantle color, is often due to aging light
bulbs, but the condition can be sign of a nutrient or biomineral
deficiency.
SIDEBAR: Beware the Pests & Predators
Many pests and predators are attracted to Tridacnids. Boring
sponges, segmented worms (Errantiate polychaetes), crabs, predatory
mollusks (snails) and flatworms are commonly caught preying on
Tridacna species. Most can be observed through careful observation
and removed.
Pyram (Is this a common name or a genus?),
<Genus (sorry), Pyramidellidae is the family name> Murex
and Costellarid snails often prey on clams. The Pyramidellid
snails are perhaps the most common, prolific and tedious, if not
difficult, to eradicate due to their small size and camouflage
coloration. Natural predators, such as smaller species of wrasses, can
be helpful for reducing the population of such snails, but none can be
assured of providing complete protection.
The best means of their control is, of course, avoiding
introduction in the first place. Only purchase cultured specimens (of
clams?).
<Yes>
Try to avoid those that have been housed in a system that also
harbors wild individuals. By quarantining new purchases for a few weeks,
you can avoid introducing predators into your tank. I should state that the
need for quarantine also applies to live rock, live sand and any other
source of life that has been wild-extracted or come in contact with the
same.
Choose Wisely for Success
Giant clams are not only beautiful, but they are beneficial to
captive systems, removing ammonia, nitrate, phosphate and other organic
materials in the course of their filter feeding and photosynthesis.
Make the effort to find and choose captive-produced instead of
wild-collected specimens. Most of the tridacnid clams found in the
ornamental trade are cultured, but some still extracted from nature.
Aquacultured animals are much more likely to thrive; they are easier to
acclimate because they have been farmed in captive conditions and
transported with fewer traumas.
For the best results, pay attention to your clams. Most issues are
water-quality related and show up early in non-opening, tired-looking
mantles. Be quick with checking your water, changing some out and adding
a double dose of iodide/ate and all should be well.
Robert Fenner is the author of multiple
aquarium-related articles, studies and books. His work in the industry
spans decades, and his teaching and academic credentials include several
degrees in chemistry, physics and biology. To contact Bob, visit
webwebmedia.com. |
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