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Livestocking,
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Related Articles: Avoiding Bad Choices: Saltwater Animals
That Are Commonly Offered in the Trade That Shouldn't Be, and
Suggested Alternatives, by Bob Fenner, Collecting Marines, Marine Livestock Selection, Reef Livestock Selection, Quarantine, Quarantine of Corals and
Invertebrates, Acclimation,
Acclimating
Invertebrates, Marine Life Use
in Ornamental Aquatics,
/The Conscientious Marine
Aquarist
Top 5 Marine Fishes for Beginners
(& what setups they require to thrive)
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by Bob Fenner |
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What makes a fish one of the best choices for new saltwater aquarists?
Beauty in terms of color, markings and behavior certainly; along with
aquarium hardiness and suitability in the way of prepared foods
acceptance and disease resistance. Of the few thousand species offered
in our interest there are some resounding “duds”, but thankfully on the
other end of the scale are others that are real winners. Here is a brief
listing of my top five.
I hasten to mention that there is a strong inclination to direct you to
captive-produced, versus wild-collected specimens. These are far
superior in adapting readily to aquarium life, having known it their
entire lives; as well as readily eating easily obtained prepared
commercial foods… And, aquacultured specimens are initially healthier
and lack pathogenic diseases. The super-bonus of choosing cultured
livestock is realized in its being much less aggressive, territorial;
getting along with other stock you’ll be placing.
Onto my take on top five beginner marine fishes:
1.
Nemo! Amphiprion ocellaris, the most common and hardiest Clownfish
of course.
Here’s a whole bunch of Nemos at
an IMAC show years back in the
ProAquatix booth. And below that two of
the many sport mutations of A. ocellaris
available nowayears: A “naked” and
“black” Ocellaris. Neat eh? And there
are MANY more varieties to choose
amongst. Clownfishes are the archetypal
marines; recognized everywhere, they
frequently have trouble adjusting to
captivity when collected from the wild.
All Clowns are found in close
association (symbiosis) with one of
several large Anemones; and they get
very stressed when parted. Not to worry
though with aquacultured specimens.
These don’t require their
stinging-celled hosts and are so
domesticated that they do well in a
wide-range of conditions.
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Besides
being the darlings of Disney pix; the
smaller cultured Clown species are a
delight to keep; being fine housed in
ten gallons when small, twice that as a
couple/pair as adults, to much more if
being housed with other species of
fishes; to grant them all room. As in
the movie, one individual out of the two
or more you have will “turn into” a
female with time, growing decidedly
larger and a bit more agonistic than the
smaller (male/s). This fish greedily
accepts all types of foods, and unless
you introduce it to wild pathogens,
should remain biological disease free.
The smaller Clownfish species are best
kept with other easygoing fishes and
invertebrates; like gobies, blennies,
small cardinalfishes, and gentler
wrasses.
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2.
Gobiosoma Cleaner Goby, Gobiosoma oceanops (and other cleaner goby
species!).
These little chubsters are not
only cute to observe as they dart about
pose on your corals and rock, but they
do double-duty as biological cleaners,
helping other fishes to keep clean of
dead skin and parasites, greatly
reducing stress. Do look for
specifically labeled “tank raised”
specimens, as this fish is also
wild-collected. Below; a couple in Key
Largo, FLA, and one giving an expensive
Butterflyfish a once over at friend Rob
Bray’s “House of Fins” in CT.
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Cleaner
gobies can be housed by themselves, but
they’re much more fun to watch when kept
with other peaceful fishes. This being
stated, the system size you’ll need will
be dictated by the needs of these
“others”. A pair of Gobiosoma or
Elacatinus species by themselves can be
housed in a ten gallon system. Though
they will eat dried foods in all
formats; flake, pellet, extruded sticks
and wafers, these fish need to be
offered either live or frozen/defrosted
meaty foods on a daily basis to do well.
Cleaner gobies can be kept with almost
all other fish life; even large basses,
wrasses, puffers and triggerfishes
recognize them as helpers, rather than
food items. I would not trust lionfishes,
piscivorous morays or frogfishes
however… these might easily cross the
line and inhale such small fishes.
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3.
Watchman Goby, Cryptocentrus cinctus (plus others!)
This is one of several species of
“Shrimp Gobies” that form mutually
beneficial relations with different
species of Pistol Shrimps in the wild
(and captivity if you’d like to match
them). Females are bluish in base color,
whereas males are yellowish.
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These
fish need a good deal of uncrowded
bottom space, at least two square feet
per individual. Do take care when
placing any solid décor as it may well
be underminded by this fish’s prodigious
digging. For substrate, a mix of finer
and coarser material is useful to
provide structure for their burrows as
well as mouthfuls of digging pleasure.
Some folks even place short sections of
PVC pipe under rocks where they hope
their Cryptocentrus will take up
residence. Shrimp gobies are generally
fine with all types of livestock;
leaving snails and crustaceans alone,
and fishes with mouths not large enough
to inhale them reciprocating.
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4. The Orchid Dottyback, Pseudochromis fridmani
Some wild Dottyback species can be
too territorial for home-hobbyist use;
but this Red Sea endemic (only found
there) is on the far end of the families
agonistic scale; particularly where one
has the sense to purchase
captive-produced animals. Fridman’s or
the Orchid Dottyback is available most
everywhere all times of the year; being
successfully aquacultured for the
ornamental trade. There are a handful of
other Pseudochromid species that are
also captive-produced, but make sure to
check out their temperament ahead of
investing in them. Some are quite
“mean”.
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Dottybacks need structure they can get
into and hide behind to feel
comfortable; and a complete top to avoid
them leaving your tank! A singleton can
be kept in as little as a ten gallon
system; though larger is better,
particularly if you intend to keep more
than one. This fish readily accepts all
foods, but should have some meaty
component daily. Dottybacks are quick
and smart fishes; and get along with
most everything with the exception of
other fish species that occupy similar
rock-dwelling niches. Leave out grammas,
basslets and such in their systems.
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5. The Yellowstripe Cardinalfish, Ostorhinchus
(formerly Apogon) cyanosoma.
Though not as popular (yet!) as
other Cardinals like the Pyjama and
Banggai; the Yellowstripe is a much
better choice; staying small (usually
about two inches max.) and being MUCH
more peaceful amongst themselves in a
school. Below a male with a mouthful of
young in Bali, Indonesia. This Cardinal
is available more and more from US
aquaculture firms and will soon be about
in larger numbers from international
culturists.
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Cardinalfishes, especially
captive-produced specimens, are ready
feeders on dried-pelleted and
frozen-defrosted prepared foods. They
get along with all types of livestock
that gets along with them; leaving
corals and their allies be. Best kept in
small schools of 5 or more individuals,
they hang around in mid-water, usually
facing into your system water flow. This
small species is able to be housed in
volumes of a few tens of gallons, but I
recommend at least a forty gallon tank
for housing a small school.
Cardinalfishes are like so much
aqua-popcorn in the worlds tropical
reefs; the usual suspects; lions, basses
of size, triggers et al. will inhale
them if they can fit in their mouths,
attack them otherwise. Hence they should
be stocked with life that gets along
peaceably; small damsels, basslets,
gobies, blennies and such.
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Common Habitats:
A few useful notes regarding the general parameters required for keeping
the above species healthy long term. Though I’ve mentioned and remarked
that they are exceptionally hardy species, doubly so from being bred
successive generations in captivity; they too require good, clean water
and otherwise acceptable conditions to thrive.
Tank size and shape is of extreme importance. Do purchase as large a
system as practical; the bigger the better in terms of avoiding troubles
and granting you the most possibilities in terms of stocking and
aquascaping. Smaller systems vacillate easily if power or gear outages
occur, foods, medications and supplements are mis-applied. Measure for
the maximum dimensions system you can fit.
Water quality, lighting, circulation…. Need to be stable and
optimized. Metabolites, easily measured using Nitrate (NO3) as your
guide, should be kept under 20 ppm; really less than 10 ppm. This can be
accomplished through simple prudence in stocking, set up (e.g. skimming)
and feeding, along w/ regular maintenance; in particular frequent,
partial water changes (a fifth to a quarter of the system water switched
out for new weekly).
Lighting that is not too intense suits these fishes; no need for
“blasting” them as with small polyp stony corals; though they can be
kept together, given provision of caves, overhangs in your décor that
provide optional shade. The use of timers on your lighting equipment is
strongly advised; eight to ten hours per day is about right, and you can
certainly schedule this time for when you’ll be about; leaving the
lights off mid-day if so desired.
Circulation cures many potential ills: promoting gaseous exchange,
moving particulates about for their easy removal via filtration,
providing exercise-currents for your livestock. Best to have a good
“five, ten turns” (the volume recirculated in your system multiplied)
per hour, provided by powerheads, submersible pumps, mechanical
bubblers.
These are all tropical shallow water, reef fish species, requiring
warm water in the mid-seventies to low eighties F. on a consistent
basis. To avoid possibly heater troubles, you’re encouraged to use two
heaters of moderate wattage to maintain system heat.
Cloze:
Yes to there being MANY more great first fish choices for
beginning marine enthusiasts; it’s up to you to look around, investigate
the possibilities for your particular set up; keeping in mind the
ultimate size, compatibility and nutritional requirements of your
potential acquisitions.
These “top five” fishes represent the best that our hobby has to offer;
being all aquacultured and widely available. They’re hardy, adaptable to
aquarium conditions, and very easygoing in terms of getting along with
other fish and non-fish livestock.
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