FAQs about Triggerfish Disease Treatments
FAQs on Triggerfish Disease:
Trigger Disease 1, Triggerfish Health 2, Triggerfish Health 3,
FAQs on Triggerfish Disease by Category:
Diagnosis,
Environmental, Nutritional,
Trauma,
Pathogenic (infectious, parasitic), Social,
Genetic,
Related Articles: Triggerfish, Red Sea
Triggerfishes,
Related FAQs:
Triggerfishes, Triggerfish:
Identification, Selection, Compatibility, Behavior, Systems, Feeding, Reproduction,
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Triggerfishes for Marine
Aquarium
Diversity, Selection & Care
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by Robert (Bob) Fenner |
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Blotchy White Spots on Trigger 12/30/16
Dear WWW Team:
<Dan>
Happy holidays and I hope all is well.
<Thank you; yes>
I recently purchased a 7in crosshatch trigger, but I was only able to quarantine
him for 5 days. The water quality in my QT was bad. So, I decided to dip
him with Safety Stop (2 parts dip - 45min in formalin and another 45min
in Methylene blue) before putting him in my 120 reef tank. In the last couple of
days, I noticed several white blotchy spots on both of his fins (pics attached).
They are different sizes and shapes - I don't think is ich.
<Agreed... this looks like "burns" from the dip exposure to me. Should heal on
its own in one-two weeks>
I decided not to catch him and QT him again because it would cause an extreme
amount of stress to him and all other inhabitants in reef tank.
<We are in agreement>
Besides he looks well and eating well.
<Ah, good>
A couple of days ago, I began to give him Dr G's bacterial frozen food plus
soaked Selcon in the pellets 3x a day. The trigger and all other tank mates are
behaving normal, happy, active, and eating well. All the other fishes are
currently not showing any signs of the blotchy white spots.
My water parameters are: ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrates 2-4, temperature 77-79,
and ph is steady at 8.2.
My questions are: what is afflicting my trigger?
<As stated>
And I am on the right direction in terms of treating him or do I need to do
something differently/aggressively?
<I would continue as you are doing; no worries>
Your advice, insights are greatly appreciated.
Kind regards and Happy New Year
Dan
<And to you. Bob Fenner>
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triggerfish keep dying: Poisoned by phony "med.s" 6/21/12
I have followed your site for some time and noticed the detailed
answers/advice you seem to offer. I am a very frustrated aquarist.
Over the last 3 months I've purchased separately 10 triggerfish
that die almost immediately.
<?!>
(4 clown triggers, 2 BlueLine, 1 whitetail, 2 undulated, 1 Huma BlueLine).
I know a good aquarist should find out what's wrong before adding more
but I am doing everything right. I have 6 SW tank setups with groupers,
eels, damsels, a marine Betta, harlequin tusk, & pufferfish all thriving
in different tanks. As I add triggerfish the initial acclimation is
fine, they're eating and getting along with others. Within a week or so
it's the same MO; their eyes begin to cloud, small white dots on their
fins develop, and it seems their scales begin to peel. After getting
progressively worst, each stops eating and after a week or two dead.
<Something up here...>
My parameters seem fine: ph 8.3, 0 nitrites, ammonia, 5
nitrates(unnoticeable in some cases), salinity 1.023 range. Medications
and a QT tank for most doesn't help. The latest was the BlueLine (55g)
and clown(150g); acclimation was fine, LR, canister filters, protein
skim, 77 temp, parameters were near perfect, and after a few days, white
spots, cloudy eyes, not eating, and then death. I purchased both from
online retailers but others I have purchase locally with the same
results.
<Mmm, what's going on here?>
This is extremely frustrating and disappointing for both the costs I'm
out of and simply not knowing why these fish are dying while others
thrive. I take these deaths personally as I am dedicated and serious and
hate to this happen to any of my fish. Also using Instant Ocean
sea salt which I hope is not the issue. Any assistance or guidance is
appreciated.
<Well, there are no specific "Balistid only" pathogenic diseases... what
might mal-affect them would do the same to the puffers, other fish
groups... Have you changed your protocol in dipping/bathing new
purchases?
Perhaps there is insufficient oxygen (using RO water in dips?) or too
much formalin exposure... Explain to me your modus operandi from
purchase to main tank placement. Bob Fenner>
Re: triggerfish keep dying; being killed 6/23/12
I have tried two primary methods: a Methylene Blue dip before the
QT tank and a product my LFS suggested called Ruby Reef Rally.
<A scam... see WWM re>
After a few days and noticeable cloud eye, white spots, and laggard
movement,
<Could be the pepper sauce...>
I use Chem-Marine parasite products, Melafix,
<These last two are worthless as well... Please search on WWM...>
and EM Erythromycin to varied degrees. The most recent happened to both
5"clown and 6" bluelined, both in new species only cycled tanks (150g,
55g) where parameters were excellent. I also used this product I
discovered call Seachem Stability and Stress Coat hoping this would
help. I let the bag float for 1/2hr and pour 1/2cup of tank
water every 5mins into the bag for about an hour.
<... and see WWM re acclimation>
But it has happened to my other triggers once mixed in with other species.
Very disturbing and can't figure out the issue especially since other
fish are fine. I visited my LFS today which had a fresh crop of triggers
but I didn't dare purchased any. I noticed how vibrant each were
in their tanks and also notice they are using rock substrate where as I
use sand on a 3" bed. thx
<Read. BobF>
A case of rehoming Bluechin triggers.., avoiding Crypt
6/30/08 Evening all :D <Carolyn> Am sure this question must
appear somewhere on WWM but I can't find it for love nor money, so
hope you don't mind me asking it :) <Please go ahead> I'm
(hopefully) rehoming a pair of Bluechin triggers (male and female)
however the current owner has recently had ich. I'm still keen to
take the animals now they are on the mend (he says only a few spots
left) however they will be popped straight into my hospital tank on
arrival. Now then.. 1. given that the animals will be stressed from the
move, should I still freshwater dip them before they go in the
treatment tank? <Yes, I would... with formalin, aeration...> 2.
are triggers ok with copper treatments so long as the instructions are
meticulously followed? <Yes> 3. OR would it be better l (i.e.
less stressful) leaving the animals without copper for a few weeks and
see if they are indeed over the ich, treating if any signs occur?
<Up to you... if they appear healthy, I might skip the copper, go
with simple observation for now> They will, ultimately, be going
into my 5ft tank upgrade once they're done in QT but I'm
terrified of introducing ich :o Any advice on how best to ensure this
hated parasite never makes it past QT would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks as always, Carolyn <As often welcome. Bob Fenner>
QT size for Triggerfish
01/09/2008 Dear Crew: <<Hello,
Andrew here>> In your opinion, is a 14 gallon BioCube large
enough to quarantine a 2 inch Sargassum Triggerfish for 6 to 8
weeks assuming excellent water quality and maintenance? It's
up and running with some modifications and improvements over the
stock set up, but still empty, so it would be quite convenient if
large enough. Thanks for any information in advance! <<Yes,
as the fish is still very small at this point, just keep good
maintenance on the tank>> Michele <<Thanks for the
question, A Nixon>>
Re: QT size
01/18/2008 Andrew, (or who ever gets
this reply) <<Hello, Andrew here>> Thanks for the QT
info. We went ahead and ordered the Sargassum triggerfish from
Blue Zoo and it arrived today. Our 2 inch trigger is a....
gulp..... 4 inch trigger! Do you still think we might be okay for
a two month quarantine in a 14 gallon BioCube? The QT has to be
at least two months to allow us time to finish some plumbing on
the 240 gallon display tank. We have about eight to ten pounds of
live rock for biofiltration and hiding places and no substrate.
<<well tended and water parameters held excellent, yes,
will be fine, maybe conceder a larger QT in the future if
purchasing larger fish>> I know everyplace says no live
rock in a QT, but I couldn't figure out why it would matter
as long as I realize that I will lose the rock if I have to treat
with any meds. <<Live rock and substrate are not desirable
in a QT tank it provides places to harbour parasites which can
then be passed on to other newly quarantined fish, and yes, if
you use meds, it will mostly kill off the live rock>> I
plan on changing about 10% -20% of the water twice a week unless
water tests/levels dictate more often. <<This is
good>> This is our first time ordering a fish online
instead of using the LFS, so we've been a bit nervous. We did
a 1 1/2 hour acclimation and left him/her in dim lights today.
The plan was normal lights tomorrow and offer a chopped
silverside for a first feeding. S/he is a gorgeous
fish.......checked out the tank and then hung out in a little
cave in the rock. Thanks again for any information! <<These
are such a beautiful fish indeed, great personalities, I wish you
all success with your new friend. Michele <<Thanks for the
questions, A Nixon>>
Re: QT size
01/30/2008 Andrew, (or who ever gets
this reply), <<Hello Michelle, Andrew here>> I'm
bothering you about the Sargassum triggerfish in QT again! I
apologize ahead of time if this is really stupid, but I wanted
your opinion. <<No need to apologise>> As a reminder,
I have a four inch Sargassum triggerfish in QT in a 14 gallon
BioCube. As expected, water quality is difficult. We are
finishing the second week of QT and I do 20% water changes every
2 to 3 days. The nitrate stays between 5 and 10 ppm. Ammonia and
nitrite are zero. <<Sounds good, always good to keep on top
of them>> Our goal was to leave the fish in the BioCube for
an additional 4 to 6 weeks after the end of QT until our 240 was
ready for fish. I am starting to worry that this may be too
stressful on the fish because of the small size of the aquarium
and the nitrate levels. SOOO, the question...which is the least
stressful on the triggerfish. 1: Spend the additional six weeks
in the BioCube or 2: go in a very overstocked 100 gallon aquarium
with a Naso tang, yellow tang, Rabbitfish, mandarin dragonette,
and pair of Sebae clowns until the 240 gallon is ready? The tangs
are all very peaceful, but the female clown can be a bit
aggressive. Currently, the triggerfish is very active and eats
flake and frozen seafood well. S/he does pace the top of the tank
a lot...I'm not sure if this is begging for food or secondary
to the small size and nitrate level. We have liverock in the QT
(I know, it will be scrape if we treat), so the fish has hiding
places and a small area to explore. If it makes a difference, at
the end of the four week QT, we will connect the BioCube to a
refugium with a four inch sandbed, six gallons of water
(that's in addition to the sandbed and liverock) and
Gracilaria. Thanks as always for your help! <<I would keep
the fish in the quarantine tank, don't see a reason to add
undue stress to the fish. As long as the water is kept very well,
as your doing already, feeding a good diet, and add the extra
refugium for filtration, it shall be fine>> <<Thanks
for the update and questions. Good luck. A
Nixon>>
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Filter Cleaning, actually trigger
non-treatment 06/08/07 Hello,
<Howdy> I have a 6 inch Black Hawaiian Trigger <Ah, Melichthys
niger... very wide-ranging species...> with a small white dot right
above his eye that looks pretty much like a pimple my LFS said it was
probably fluke and I want to qt him a 10-gallon qt tank. <Nah and
nah> Is the tank big enough if I keep pristine water conditions?
Also how should I treat this? <All posted on WWM, however...>
Thank you very much, Jared <I would NOT treat this fish, not move
it... not. The spot is likely "nothing" pathogenic... will go
of its own accord. Moving, exposing this specimen will be more harm,
trouble than it's worth... Not necessary... Is this clear enough?
Bob Fenner>
Re: Sick Trigger 6/9/07
Ok I did the wrong thing and over reacted and moved
him to the qt tank cause it looked like the trigger started to look
like it was getting ich. <... if this were/is the case, the system
has "it"... all fish livestock must need me moved,
treated...> So now he is in the qt tank. Should I give him a
freshwater bath and lower the salinity? Thanks for all your help. Also
I live in Dallas, TX and I was wondering if you could help me find a
respectable fish store in my area or maybe point me to a site that
could help me. <Ask your local marine club for input here> Your
sites help is priceless Jared <... then use it. Your answers are all
archived... along with much related, needed info. Bob
Fenner>
Stupid trigger? Mmm, no, but going blind... from?
2/25/07 Hello, <Kwon> Thanks for all the wonderful info on
your site. They're really helpful. But I can't seem to find
info on my problem. I have a 3" clown trigger in a fish only 55
gal tank with 50lb live rocks. <Mmm, you know this fish needs more
room... can/will likely become a terror...> I have him for about 8
month now. Lately, I've notice that during feeding, he charges
towards the sinking food and miss it. He has no problem picking them
off the floor. He also bumps into the rocks a lot. Is there something
wrong with his eye sight? I see no physical damage on his eye nor body.
<There is likely a nutritional deficiency at play here... though the
source of the problem could be (smaller likelihood) an internal (eye)
parasite... or even less likely, a psychological result from the
crowding...> He just survived an ick attack about 4 month ago. Could
that have damaged something? <Mmm, yes... depending on how the
fish/system was treated... it may have been neurologically poisoned.
Bob Fenner> Please advise. Thanks. Kwon.
Huma Huma help 1/2/07 hello. <Hello, Graham
here.> I have had a catastrophe... and want to help save my last
fish... I purchased some turbo snails from the local pet store and
after introducing them to my 75 gallon tank all my fish started
scratching. I added Sea Cure and that was the end of my marine life. I
lost 2 clown 2 damsel 1 yellow tang and my emperor angel.. now my
trigger is left but he is still scratching away at his side. he has his
whole belly red and flakey now. what can I do ? My tank was all zeros
for no2, no3 and ammonia and a ph of 8.0-8.2.... I now have him out of
the tank and in a quarantine.. he seems to be fine but he is scratching
his skin really bad...I an dosing him with sea cure BTW. <Very hard
to diagnose a problem like this when you can't see it. Send a
high-resolution .JPG that has been either compressed in an image editor
or to a .ZIP file. (Make sure the file is no bigger than 500k, but
preferably under 100k) If you cannot send a pic, I recommend you try to
work out an identification from our FAQs using the search tool.>
Thanks Josh <Welcome.> <P.S. Bob F. : Please jump in if you
see a red flag I'm missing! -Graham> <<Mmm... copper
poisoning... removing the copper, hope, time going by...
RMF>>
- Picasso Trigger Needs Help - Hiya, I have a
Picasso Trigger and a Volitans Lion in a 75 gal. (1) Fluval 304; (1)
Fluval 404. Lately noticing the Trigger is having trouble seeing. He
can't quite grasp the food so I've resorted to putting it on a
skewer for him. It appears as though both eyes are larger than before
w/ white circles around them at the base. No signs of parasites (at
least externally). Water quality: salt = 1.021; ph = 8.2;
nitrates =
tend to be on the high side; ammonia & nitrites = 0. When the Lion
was first introduced I caught the Trigger nibbling on his fin and
wonder if perhaps he's been poisoned in same way or stung and could
this lead to eye problems or trouble seeing. <Is a possibility.>
Now that he's having trouble seeing, he's getting in the way of
the Lion during feeding and therefore the Lion is turning on his side
and then the Trigger gets into his fins. He's going into a 20 gal
QT. <Excellent.> After searching your FAQ's I read about
using Epsom Salt, but that all appeared to be for pop-eye. <I would
treat as such anyway... think the Epsom salt could help reduce some of
the pressure in those eyes.> Not sure if this is the same thing so
wanted to double check before using something. <The Epsom salts are
safe to use in the quarantine tank. As an aside, if the trigger was
actually envenomized in/near/around the eyes, there is likely little
you can do. All the same, I'd give a good try at getting it to eat
and you've already outlined the steps that I would take. Make sure
you have plenty of new water made up so you can provide frequent water
changes in that 20 gallon tank.> Please help. Your site is always
informative and extremely helpful...thank you for always being there
for us hobbyist! ;) <Cheers, J -- >
- Clown Trigger Questions - Hello, <And hello to you,
JasonC here...> I've recently set up a semi predator tank with
inhabitants including a clown trigger (3.5 in), snowflake eel, <My
friend, with these two creatures alone, the word "semi" does
not belong - this is a true predator tank.> formosa wrasse and a
recently added Imperator Angelfish (4.5 in) and my triggers colors have
been fading since his addition I am not sure if this is a sign that he
is stressed out from the new arrival or if it might be related to
either a feeding or disease issue. <Could be any one of those - how
big is this system?> About 6 weeks ago, I noticed spots on him and
corrected by treating my tank with a mild based copper treatment
(killed my cleaner wrasse) which seemed to correct the situation and
regularly am checking for signs of return <Egad... this is not a
correction by any means. Treating your main system with copper will
likely stall your biological filter and could even lay it to waste. You
should do some rudimentary water tests to make sure ammonia and nitrite
are not building up...> In regards to feeding I try a few
goldfish/ghost shrimp twice a week and for the balance of the week feed
the tank brine shrimp and frozen krill. At what size can I feed him
crayfish and what size should they be in relation to him <I would
stick with frozen foods like Prime Reef and other meaty foods, shrimp,
krill, squid, etc. Live foods tend to cause too much aggression which
this clown trigger doesn't need to have encouraged.> All
assistance is greatly appreciated <I would encourage you to browse
and read the Wet Web Media site - all of these animals and their
captive care requirements are covered there in addition to quarantine
and treatment procedures for ailing fish.> Chris <Cheers, J --
>
Trigger Trouble? Concerned about my Niger Trigger. 5yrs
in 1200 litre system. Gone off food for 2 weeks now & not swimming
around at all. <Not good...> All other fish in system
ok. Captured & in hospital tank. No signs of external
disease. <That's good to here...> Treated for 1
week with Myxazin & fresh water dip. <I'd stick with
just the FW dip. Why medicate if you're not sure what you're
treating?> Tried feeding sea urchin to see if any interest. No
interest at all in food. Don't know what to treat with, maybe
something for worms? Concerned from Cape Town South Africa.
<Well, concerned, a fish that refuses food all of the sudden
definitely is problematic. While these fishes tend to go on
"hunger strikes" occasionally, it is entirely possible that
you may be dealing with some kind of internal parasite. So, I cannot
entirely blame you for attempting medication after all! I suppose that
I'd utilize medications that are for internal parasites. Hopefully,
that will do the trick...Also, keep tempting the fish with a variety of
different foods. You may want to use some liquid vitamins, such as Vita
Chem, which can be administered directly into the water. As fishes do
drink, the fish may actually take in some of the vitamins directly.
These may just pull him through until he starts taking food again.
Don' give up! Regards, Scott F.>
Triggerfishes for Marine
Aquarium
Diversity, Selection & Care
New eBook on Amazon: Available here
New Print Book on Create Space: Available
here
by Robert (Bob) Fenner |
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