Ich or Velvet?     11/10/13 I have a Kole tang that suddenly is covered in a velvety substance. I’m assuming it’s marine velvet… but I also thought it could be marine Ich. Could you confirm which disease it is for me? <.... doesn't look like either of these Protozoans to me... Something "more sinister", like poor water quality issue, perhaps stinging... What else is in this system? What additives, supplements et al. are you pouring in? Bob Fenner> And I believe this guy is probably to far gone. Friday he seemed fine… today (Sunday) he looks terrible. Thank you for your help. Matt Kasperski Unfortunately, this is the best pic I can get.  It does appear more velvety than sprinkled with ‘salt or sugar’. I’ve probably just answered my question.  But I thank you for your time.

Re: Ich or Velvet?     11/10/13 It’s a 6 month old system… (75 gallon). Other fish are 2 ocellaris clowns, 3 Chromis, 1 melanurus wrasse. Also 2 Birdsnest corals and a Montipora, cleaner shrimp… assorted snails. <All these should be okay> I moved from VA to TX back in June…  The system was set up immediately in June and was ‘seeded’ with a few pieces of live rock from my old (4 year running) system. I thought I had Ich in this new setup (even though all fish were quarantined for 6 weeks in a smaller tank).  I have been treating with ‘Kick Ich’ <... here's the problem. Ala pepper sauce. You've been scammed>  for two weeks… (I know, it probably doesn’t work but I was desperate). Was performing 25% water changes twice a week before a new dose of Kick Ich was added. Aside from adding the Kick-Ich, I have added buffer (sodium carbonate) occasionally to combat low Alk.  Regular water changes are performed every two weeks and I would have assumed water quality was ok. All the fish look a little ‘off’ today but the Kole tang looked the worst. All are in hospital tank now… and I was wondering what would be the best course of treatment. OH… and how long should I leave the DT fallow?  8 weeks? <... posted on WWM... I'd look into quinine cpd.s> I have attached a better pic of the Kole tang in the hospital tank. <... poisoned by the scam product. Search, read re this on WWM as well. BobF>

Marine Velvet. Trtmt.  9/24/08 Hi guys. <Heya!> I have had my tank set up for 18 months (120gal) it's has no corals just fish and lots of inverts, the last fish I added was several months ago. I had what I thought was a white spot outbreak which I now think is velvet as the white spots are much smaller and seem far more aggressive, I tried a reef safe medication for 2 weeks in the main tank with no successes at all <Rarely will this work.> and within a week I lost 3 fish and everything was smothered in thousands of tiny spots (just visible to the eye). I moved the remaining fish to a separate tank and have been treating them with copper for the last 3 weeks I also slowly increased the tank temp to 30C, increased aeration and lowered the SG to 1.012. I have 4 fish left, 2 large young Columbian catsharks, 1 juvenile star and stripes puffer and a adult 6 lined wrasse. The 'velvet' has become worse on one of the Columbians and it even has a large ulcers and skin looks shredded with loads of mucus, the other for some reason is looking much better, the wrasse is and has always been spot free but must have it to some extent so is being treated and the Puffer although still heavily infested is feeding and moving about normally. <Amyloodinium is a tough parasite to kill. Please read http://www.wetwebmedia.com/amylloodiniumart.htm and then follow the links from that page for more info.> There is still not a major improvement over all, (apart from less rapid gill movement). What else could I do to help eradicate it and how long should I continue treatment plus how long will the main tank need to be fish free? <The life cycle is 6-8 weeks so you'll need to keep the tank empty of fish for at least that long.> This is first disease I have encountered in over 20 years of keeping fish and is shockingly stubborn and very aggressive, I must admit curing it is beating me and I really hope I don't loose any more fish. Please help. <As you will read in the above article, Copper is not very effective against marine velvet. I would suggest you try a fresh water dip as outlined in http://www.wetwebmedia.com/dips_baths.htm. Regardless of what you treat with, this will only be partially effective with the free floating stages of this parasite. Those attached to the gills pretty much get a free ride. Furthermore, will your main tank remains void of fish, your quarantine tank is not, thus the cycle continues. I really hope you can beat this, please keep us informed as to your progress. -- Good Luck! BrianG> Thank you Charlotte

Live rock, Cupramine  - 05/26/07 Hi Bob and WWM crew! <Mark> Firstly, let me say that I've learned more from your site than I have from any LFS in the city. <Easy eh? It's passive, huge, took many thousands of hours to compose... whereas the store only has brief minutes of your time, diffuse attention...> I use your site religiously.  I've had my current tank up and running for about 4-5 months. It is a (saltwater) 75 gallon, housing 3 small damsels and an Auriga butterfly.     Recently, my butterfly had a bad ich outbreak- the damsels were fine however. <Uh, no... they're reservoir hosts... Your system "has" Crypt>   I did a water change, lowered the salinity (approx. 1.021), but the ich just kept getting worse.  Since I couldn't catch my fish for a dip, <Mmm, no...> and I don't have a quarantine <Oh... you don't need one of these, you need a treatment system... Too late for quarantine> I went to my LFS for advice.   They told me I could put Cupramine into my display tank without killing the live rock and live sand. <... no>   After reading up on your site, I realized that was a mistake.  24 hours after medicating with Cupramine,  I decided to abandon the plan and put carbon and CupriSorb into my filter to remove the Cupramine. My question is:  within the 24 hours that I had medicated, do you think it killed my live rock and sand?   <To some degree, yes> Do I need to replace my live rock and live sand? <Likely not... but perhaps adding a bit more LR will help boost, reinoculate the old material> My plan of action is to add garlic to the food as temporary relief, <Not warranted> add a uv sterilizer to minimize parasitic cycle, and continue with more water changes and lower salinity...  Is that all I can do?? <Errr, no... you can treat the fish properly... elsewhere... Or learn to, live with a resident infestation... All covered on WWM.> Thank you so much for your help! Regards, Mark <Read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mardisindex.htm Bob Fenner>

Staying The Course (Amyloodinium Treatment) After five weeks of leaking tanks moving fish and (almost) tons of rocks in and out of various tanks to try and get my display 6x2x2 up and running, I thought I had achieved it at last. In went the rocks live and otherwise, all nicely aquascaped, in go the fish (the only loss in all this was my prized neon goby, as they are rarely imported to this part of the world) and hey presto, back in business. ........Or so I thought! <Uhh-Ohh...> Someone who posted on your great site wanted a picture of Amyloodinium (or rather a fish with Amyloodinium) well if I can photograph it well enough I will let you know, since my tank is now riddled with it. Can you believe it! <Yuck!> After all this care and work (I am absolutely shattered) I get a dose of Oodinium in my tanks. (The tank is reef and fish now) I have two completely collapsed disks in my back so removing everything again to get the fish out is no longer an option, I'm afraid. I committed mine and your, cardinal ('scuse the pun) sin. I dosed my display tank with Oodinex. <Well, given your circumstances, you really didn't have a lot of options, I guess...> Now, I do not know if you fellows are familiar with this product but (haha) it is supposed to be reef and invert safe! <A questionable claim made by a number of products....> I was just so tired after many many nights trying to fix leaks and sawing bits of pipe and god knows what else, I just had no choice. <Believe me, I understand!> Anyway, The fish, after one week are looking a tiny bit better. The Pulsing Xenia is looking awful as are most of the star polyps and mushroom colonies. <Well, that is most likely some collateral damage caused by the "medication"> My question is this: Are you familiar with this product and if so, have you any experience with it? I know you won't have dosed your tanks but maybe you have heard of some-one that has? There are no list of ingredients on the bottle which is infuriating but it turns the water fluoro green four an hour or so after dosing. To make things worse we ( my wife and I) have just had a new carpet fitted (due to a tank accident) so I need to make water damage a no-no. <I have heard of the product, but I am not familiar with its active ingredients. If any WWM readers have experience with this product, your comments would be most welcome!> Now I've dosed the tank, other than carbon and PolyFilters how long would you leave the tank before doing a water change (or would you dose the tank again in a week or two's time, to try to catch the Oodinium's six week cycle. <Well, If you do elect another round of dosing, it may be better to get the corals out of the tank, to avoid continued damage to them.> The Koran Angel still has cloudy eyes but the rest of the fish seem to have stopped scratching. I really want rid of this disease and I know eventually the fallow tank method is the only sure way but right now I am just too shattered. <I feel for you!> Any more opinions/ideas will be very much appreciated, I can assure you my friends. Thank you for all your help in the past. Kind Regards Simon. <Well, Simon- at this stage of the game, I suppose that you have no other real choice but to follow through with this medication per the manufacturer's instructions. The "collateral damage" issue is one that you'll have to deal with. Perhaps the most difficult problem to overcome when treating the tank is that it's often hard to maintain control of dosage, when you take into account the rocks, sand, and other items in the tank. After using this product per manufacturer's instructions, be sure to execute some small water changes and utilize carbon and/or PolyFilter to remove any residual medication from your tank. While you may not have embarked on the smoothest road, you might as well stay on it until you reach your destination! Good luck! Regards, Scott F.>

Fighting Amyloodinium Good day to you all at WWM. (and if I don't speak to you before......Happy Christmas!) <And a Happy Holiday to you! Scott F. with you tonight> Just an update really, to which I would hope you will add your views/comments/advice to my continuing battle with Amyloodinium in my marine tank. I discontinued my treatment with 'Oodinex'. Far from being harmless to inverts, it almost killed everything invertebrate. <Yep...unfortunately, chemical treatments that are effective at wiping out this disease can easily destroy inverts as well, as you know well!> I can think of no other reason all the corals (especially the xenia) and the BTA shrank to about 10% of their original size. <Well, that is the most likely culprit!> To top it all, I still have Oodinium in the system. One question I would like to ask is, do the fish build up a resistance to this disease once they have had it, much like us having a vaccination? <Not to my knowledge> The reason I ask this is the fish that have had it and survived, seem to be ok with no more infection showing. The disease seems to be very, and I mean very, slowly abating. My main question is regarding getting rid of this awful disease for good and how long might it take. (how long is a piece of string? maybe?) <Well, it is a vicious disease; one which requires aggressive treatment to be successful> I am now treating only with ozone, trying to keep the ORP between 350 & 390 and doing a 20% water change every week or even twice a week when I can. IYO do you think I can ever conquer this disease in this fashion or will I eventually have to go the fallow tank routine? <You asked my opinion...I'd go the fallow tank route. I really think that this will get the causative protozoa in your tank once and for all down to numbers that the otherwise healthy fishes should be able to withstand.> I should add as an update. The Koran Angel is improving slowly with the cloudy eyes. The Majestic angel is 100% better, and all but the Emperor Angel (juvenile) is still scratching (flicking lightly) on rocks etc. ( I have four angels in this tank as a friend had a disaster, but they all get on fine at the moment. I realize this wont last forever and am trying to find homes for some of them. <Good idea. Four angels in just about any sized tank is potentially problematic..> The only loss so far (which was bad enough) was an Indian Ocean butterfly. The BTA and the Xenia are starting to expand again and the anemone's 'stickiness' is starting to return too. Hope I can beat this thing with your help. I so much appreciate your comments and without them feel I would have given up long ago. Have a great Christmas all of you! Simon. <We're glad to be here for you, Simon! I know that you're on the right track, and with continued perseverance, you can beat this thing! Do consider the "fallow tank" technique to help eliminate the remaining protozoa that reside in the tank. Hang in there! Regards, Scott F.>

Marine Velvet, Marine Betta and Cleaner Wrasse 4/15/05 Just a quick question. I have a 125gal reef tank. I had an episode of Marine Velvet about 3.5 weeks ago. All I have left is my Firefish, glass goby, Scarlet lady shrimp, my Anemones, and coral. Tank was treated with Stop Parasites. Did a lot of water changes and turkey blasting and for the past 2.5 weeks everything has been fine.  <Stop Parasites is rough stuff! The water changes are a good idea. Beware that velvet has a life cycle that is about three weeks long. Many aquarists are lulled into a false sense of security because their fish are parasite free. Then, a week or so later, all of the resting cysts hatch and it is worse than before.> I saw a young Marine Betta at a store in Fredericksburg VA, called Maru. The Betta is only 1.5 inches, and seems peaceful. I was just wondering if the Marine Betta would be okay.  <Introducing any new fish to your system would be a bad idea. I would suggest waiting at least 6 weeks (two life cycles of the parasites) before adding any new fish. When the Betta gets larger, it will eat your ornamental shrimps.> I have also thought about getting a yellow or blue spotted Jawfish. Find them very fascinating. I wondered if I got a Cleaner wrasse if it would eat Copepods. I have quit a few. Thanks love your site you guys are my main source for aquarium info.  <Jawfish are very fascinating! However, I would apply the same waiting period as for the Betta. Also, Jawfish require at least 3-4" of sand to construct a burrow and can topple live rock with their digging. This must be considered when setting up a tank for them.  Cleaner Wrasses may eat copepods, but not enough to sustain them. 99% or more of the Cleaner Wrasses sold die quickly of starvation. Also, they don't eat Ick and Velvet parasites (these parasites are too small), and often die of those diseases themselves when they are introduced as a possible treatment. Please leave cleaner wrasses in the ocean! Best Regards. AdamC.>

Oodinium Questions 6/6/05 Ok, hard lesson to learn about marine velvet.  But after reading what was put on this site and doing further research have come across this, and was wishing input from the crew, as your bunch seem to know this hobby quite well and are quite informative. <Thanks for the kind words, let's see if we can help!> http://www.fishvet.com/revive.htm.  It is an article on both freshwater and saltwater Oodinium. Are they onto something with this Revive product? <In my opinion, no.  Copper, Quinine and Chloroquine are proven to be effective and are safe when properly used.  Oodinium is a fast killer, and experimentation can cost precious time.> Granted, its probably too late for my use, this time.   As I seem to misdiagnosed what killed off a few fish from 55 gallon, and when moving the sand from the 55g to the 150g, seem to transport this nasty parasite along with it. The pair of cleaner shrimp seem to constantly work at the LR, unless a fish happens to come by one of them.  <An aquarium must be free of fish for at least six weeks to ensure that it is free of this parasite.  Also, while attractive, cleaner shrimp are useless against Oodinium.  Even if they did eat this parasite (they don't), they probably could not do so fast enough to be effective.> Interested, read from article by Steven Pro, Mention some promising use of Hydrogen Peroxide to treat this nasty parasite.  But, not enough research (experience) with use of it yet.  I question if more has been done along this lines to consider it a good practice, as the DSB and LR are probably covered in the parasite as well.  And that inverts can carry it, unlike Ich.  And Cleaner shrimp would be doomed in copper treated QT.  Maybe your more knowledgeable insight with reading their article could discern whether it is of merit. <Inverts can carry this parasite, but are not effective vectors.  If the aquarium remains fish free for six weeks, it should be clean.  Hydrogen peroxide is effective, but the levels necessary would be quite harmful to a reef tank.  It would have to be used in a hospital tank like copper.  Steve's article is the foremost resource for the treatment of this disease for hobbyists.  I suggest following the advice he gives (Although I have had good experience with, and am partial to Chloroquine).> Appreciate the answers from the crew.  I seem to spend many hours at this site, and think it is one of the blessings of the internet, as many other sites are very much like parasites. Keep up the good work. <Thanks!  Best Regards.  AdamC.>

Need advice please (Restocking after Amyloodinium outbreak) 10-09-05 Hi Bob, <<Hello, TravisM here.>> I hope you can help me as reading through the many entries on the website has not really helped me make a decision(s) I need to make. <<I will do my best.>> I lost half my fish in my FOWLR tank to Amyloodinium many months ago, ( newbie idiot mistake of not quarantining / not recognizing symptoms / using useless med ( Kent RXP, should be called RIP ! ) Remaining fish were hardy and were saved by a malachite green / formalin product called Cuprazin. My main tank has been parasite free now for many months with all fish healthy. My number one priority is to keep it that way. <<Good choice of number one priority.>> I have learned an awful lot. <<That is the key to this hobby, learn from your mistakes and move forward.>> I have my quarantine tank set up and matured, with a sunburst anthias and an orangeback fairy wrasse in there from 2 days ago. Both look very healthy, feeding well, they will be there for a month. Now here come the questions: 1. With the safety of my main tank being the overriding concern, should I preventatively medicate these two fish even though they appear healthy? <<Absolutely not. Never blindly medicate. I would suggest purchasing some medications to have on hand, but only use them when you have a positive ID on the parasite/disease.>> 2. If the answer is yes I read somewhere that this anthias is sensitive to copper (Scott Michael article on them I think?) Would that rule out malachite, or just copper sulphate products? << Answer was a big NO. I would use hyposalinity and many other procedures before copper.>> 3. I know dips/baths are recommended also. I have read that wrasse react badly to freshwater baths. Would a tank water dip with either formalin, or methyl blue, be effective ( I have both ) and if so which would you use? Duration? << I may get flogged for this response, but I suggest you skip the dips. Dips done incorrectly can be very traumatic to you and your new fish. Acclimate them to your QT tank and follow proper QT procedures and you will be much further ahead than you will be by needlessly stressing your new fish friends. Here again proper parasite/disease ID leads to proper medication identification to use during a dip.>> Thanks in advance for your help, <<Happy to help.>> Toby Joyce <<TravisM>> 

Help! Amyloodinium Bob, I am really upset right now so please forgive me. I think my tank has Amyloodinium. The only way marine velvet could of come in my tank as far as I know would be through the Passer Angel. The passer is scratching, the Maculosus is breathing heavy and not swimming. He is covered in powder. The black durgeon is hiding and I think he's either dead or pretty sick. I'm going to do a water change. What can I do? I'm leaving for Israel on the 19th so I'm reluctant to medicate the water as my dad doesn't know how to do anything but feed and change water. I've read about medicines in FAMA Jan 1999 about medicines that use hot pepper and work. What should I do? - Thanks for your help.- Yaron >> >> Yeeikes... Very sorry to hear of your situation... And I did have a bad premonition about the Passer... as I recall I remonstrated you re its non-acclimation/quarantine... At this point? If it is Velvet... I would lower the specific gravity, raise the system temperature, and immediately institute a copper medication regimen... Please carefully read through the articles and FAQ files on the site: Home Page re this. And do this NOW!  The pepper sauce treatments will not solve this problem... Bob Fenner

Marine Velvet (I think) Bob, I have a bunch of questions for you. We bought an Achilles tang about 5 weeks ago and did not quarantine him.  <Uh oh> My brown tang (normally very peaceful) did not like him and bit and cut him so bad he died. A week later both my brown tang and my hippo regal) tang had ich. We began using a reef safe product called kick ich. <Did it work?> Then my hippo got pop eye and some black spots all over. They began to look better after about a week, but then overnight again all symptoms returned. <Typical> I had two damsels and two black perculas (all black) who showed no signs. Then my brown tang started looking blotchy with big white and smaller gold blotches on her body. Her skin was more pale then brown. My other four fish finally got what we thought was ich after about 4 weeks. I called an aquarium maintenance man to set me up a hospital tank. He did but used water from my main tank that had kick ich in it and added copper, lowered salinity to 1.015 and dropped temp from 85 to 75 (which I thought all of the things he did seemed not right given what I know about fish) <Should keep temperature elevated...> Anyway, the brown tang died the next morning (we had all fish for at least 10 months, and some for over a year). We did a big water change in hosp. and about 8 hrs later noticed that my clowns were trying to get out and my blue tang was almost white from loss of color, one of my damsels was floating and the other was hidden. We removed from hosp. and put back in main. All color came back and they appeared better. We lost the floating damsel. We did a 20 gallon water change on main tank(50 gall.) and added carbon and PolyFilter to pull kick ich out as we were having no good results. We began using Melafix the next morning and feeding them antibacterial and antiparasitic flakes. The damsel and my female clown appeared spotty with white dots didn't look like ich) and began "shedding skin as my brown tang did right before she died) we dipped them, but lost them later that day. This was four days ago. We are still using Melafix and feeding medicated flakes with vita-chem and Zoecon. My regal looks good except he has a little pop eye that looks 90% better than the previous day, he itches a bit on rock and has some bigger and not uniform white spots on his fins almost all gone as well) we have cleaner shrimp cleaning him. My male clown is now all speckled with white he has been every morning for past few days, and looks better as day progresses. He eats a lot at night, but nothing during morning feeding. He is swimming around fast. I am afraid of losing him, but more afraid of losing my regal tang. Is this highly contagious? <Yes!> We are shied away from a hosp tank as it did us no good and we lost 3 fish that were really not that bad off brown tang excluded) We just added a big UV Sterilizer last night hoping this will help. I am just afraid my tang is going to get whatever the clown has. Can what we are doing cure this and how likely is it that my tang will get this as well. <Yes, and likely> We want to save both if we can and we are really unsure of what happened and how we can keep it from happening again. <You introduced an infested organism, used a bunk chemical treatment, weakened your other livestock... a not-so comedic order of troubles> All our water I s good quality, test and water changes done once a week, temp. was at 85, now dropped to 81-82(slowly). I am sad and don't want to bury any more of my fish, please help. If there is any more info you need please let me know. Your assistance would be GREATLY appreciated. Thank You in advance, A concerned fish Mommy <Sorry this note/message is getting back to you so late (have been out of town on a ship...). Please do read over the following sections of our site: http://wetwebmedia.com/tanktroubleshting.htm http://wetwebmedia.com/parasiti.htm and the FAQs beyond... and on WWM re quarantine...  Bob Fenner>

Fighting Back Against Amyloodinium Hi, <Hi there! Scott F. with you tonight> I have a marine reef tank for almost one year now and velvet (Amyloodinium) has always been a problem in the tank (rarely have I been more than two months without it reappearing). I recently purchased a product called "Probiotic Marine Formula" from a company called Tropical Science. Few questions here: 1. Is it really effective? Will it help break the reproduction cycle of the bacteria? <<Amyloodinium is NOT a bacteria. RMF>> <I honestly don't have any experience with this product...be sure to check with some other hobbyists on the wetwebmedia.com chat forum to see if anyone has used it with success> 2. Does it only prevent or it helps cure? <Again- do check with those that may have used this product> 3. Should I tear down the whole thing and start from scratch (and what about live rock)? <Well, in my opinion, Amyloodinium and Cryptocaryon are best treated by letting the tank go "fallow", without fishes, for at least a month. By depriving the parasites of their hosts (fishes), you are actually interfering with their life cycle, and will, in all likelihood, cause the majority of the parasite population to crash. And, if the fishes are treated directly for the illness with a proven treatment, such as copper sulphate, in a separate aquarium, you'll be assured of re-introducing healthy fishes to the display tank> An yes, the only time, my tank was "disease free" is when I let it "go fallow" for one month... which is about to happen for the second time... <You hit it on the head, my friend...go fallow! It really is the best way to go...Many of the so-called "miracle cures" and "reef safe" medications are the aquatic equivalent of "snake oil", IMO...Deal with the disease by beating it at it's own game!> ref.: Bob Fenner. I am just tired of that "so true" advice! Thanks, Benoit Belanger <Yep- sometimes the hard answer sucks! But, in the end- it's the best way to go...Hang in there! Regards, Scott F>

Re: Fighting Back Against Amyloodinium The Cure Update. After more than three weeks, I can tell that "Probiotic Marine Formula" works. There was Oodinium in my tank. I had lost two fishes (the only ones in the tank), I introduced a new fish (a damsel) a few days later and it got contaminated in a few days. I then purchased the above product and started treated the tank with it. After three days, the fish didn't show any visible signs of Oodinium anymore. Three weeks later, it is in perfect health. First time in a year that I save a fish from Oodinium without having to quarantine it and treat with copper (and they often die anyway with this method: copper is not very good for the immunity system). Regards, Benoit Belanger <Well, Benoit- I'm glad that you had a positive experience with this medication. It's great to share this with our readers, as this is a forum for all hobbyists. I do not personally have experience with this stuff, so I can neither criticize or compliment it. I am, however, always leery of treating disease in the display aquarium. Many medications tend to bind with substrates, rocks, etc., rendering them somewhat ineffective at times. In my opinion, it's much better to treat the disease in a separate aquarium (with whatever medication you are administering), and let the main tank go "fallow", resulting in a diminished or eliminated parasite population. It's also important to note that many "cures" that are supposed to target specific maladies may actually cause a serious amount of collateral damage to beneficial organisms. Parasitic diseases can often go into "dormant" phases for weeks or moths, only to re-appear at a later date with a vengeance. Again- I'm not trying to "bash" this product- if it is a successful, gentle, and efficient cure, then we all have something to be happy about! I agree that LONG TERM copper exposure can possibly compromise some fishes' immunity systems and digestive infauna (in the case of tangs). However, if used properly, copper is a highly effective remedy against parasitic diseases, and has been for years. Also- as you no doubt agree- the best offense is certainly a good defense: Initial quarantine of all newly-arrived fishes is the best way to prevent the introduction of disease into our tanks. Thanks again for sharing your success with us. DO stay in touch! Regards, Scott F><<"Probiotic Marine Formula": Active ingredients sodium chloride and Nitrofurazone... this product didn't "do it". RMF>>