Rift Valley Cichlids: Talking Tanganyikan
Neale Monks
The cichlids of Lakes Malawi and Tanganyika have become among the most
popular of all the fishes in the aquarium hobby thanks to their
brilliant colours and dazzling variety. While some are demanding fish
best suited to advanced hobbyists, others are hardy enough to do well
even when kept by relatively inexperienced or casual hobbyists. About
the Rift Valley lakes Rightly have Lakes Malawi and Tanganyika been
referred to as inland seas. Both lakes are almost incomprehensibly vast
bodies of water.
• Lake Malawi has a surface area of about 30,000 square kilometres,
about the same as Belgium or the state of Maryland. Lake Tanganyika is
even bigger, at a whopping 32,000 square kilometres.
• Lake Malawi is about 560 km long and Lake Tanganyika about 670 km
long. Driving between New York and Washington only covers about 400 km,
and even the distance between San Francisco and Los Angeles is a mere
600 km. In other words, these are seriously big lakes!
• Both lakes are also very deep, the average depth of Lake Malawi being
around 300 m and Lake Tanganyika 570 m. At its deepest point, Lake
Tanganyika is almost 1500 m deep, equivalent to one quarter the height
of Mount McKinley!
These facts should make it clear that both bodies of water are more
like small seas than lakes, and it is because of this that they support
such an incredibly variety of endemic species. As well as the cichlids
for which the lakes are famous, they are also home to a variety of other
aquatic animals including catfish, spiny eels, crabs, snails, even
jellyfish. The Tanganyikan cichlids For the first part of this series,
we’ll look at the cichlids of Lake Tanganyika. In some ways they’re
easier to keep than their Malawian cousins, being generally less
aggressive (though still territorial) and consequently easier to combine
in a community. There is also a nice variety of dwarf
species too, and setting up an small single-species aquarium for these
cichlids can be very rewarding. On the other hand Tanganyikan cichlids
have a well-earned reputation for being sensitive to poor water quality,
so anyone keeping these fishes will need to provide ample filtration and
regular water changes.
The cichlids of Lake Tanganyika are typically assigned to one of
twelve tribes. Of these, only a few are significant in the
aquarium hobby: the Cyprichromini, Ectodini, Eretmodini,
Lamprologini, and Tropheini.
Julidochromis regani “Sumbu”
The Cyprichromini are sometimes known as the sardine cichlids, a good name given their lifestyle.These are open water fish that live in large schools and eat plankton. There
are two genera in this tribe, Cyprichromis and Paracyprichromis,
species of which are reasonably commonly traded. They are all
mouthbrooders. The tribe Ectodini contains a number of genera
typically associated with the substrate and in many cases
sand-sifters that forage for prey in a way analogous to the
earth-eating cichlids of South America. Members of this tribe
are not common in the hobby, though some, including various
species of Cyathopharynx and Xenotilapia, are periodically
traded. All are mouthbrooders.
Eretmodus cyanostictus
The clown and goby cichlids of the tribe Eretmodini are small,
benthic fish that feed extensively on algae. Eretmodus
cyanostictus is probably the most regularly traded, though other
speciesin the genera Spathodus and Tanganicodus are sometimes
seen as well. Eretmodine cichlids are mouthbrooders. The tribe
Lamprologini dominates the Tanganyikan cichlid trade, with
numerous genera routinely represented in hobbyists’ tanks,
including Altolamprologus, Julidochromis, Lamprologus, and
Neolamprologus. Lamprologine cichlids are egg-layers.
Cyphotilapia frontosa
The tribe Tropheini contains several genera with one in
particular, Tropheus, being regularly traded and containing
several very popular species. One of the biggest Tanganyikan
cichlids, Cyphotilapia frontosa, is also a member of this tribe.
These cichlids are all mouthbrooders.
Environmental conditions
The water in Lake Tanganyika is consistently alkaline (around
pH 9) and very hard (around 12-14 degrees KH) and replicating
these conditions in the aquarium is important. In practise
though, most Tanganyikan cichlids have proven to be relatively
adaptable, and what appears to matter most is not the precise pH
or hardness values (provided they are not too from the ideals
given above) but that the water chemistry in the aquarium should
not change much over time. In other words, the water needs to be
well buffered, and water changes should be small and frequent
rather than large and occasional.
One approach is to use a pre-packaged Lake
Tanganyika salt mix in the same way as marine salt mix is used
to make up artificial seawater. An alternative approach is to
rely on chemical filtration to harden the water and raise the
pH. A good system is to combine a canister filter (for
mechanical and biological filtration) with an undergravel filter
(for chemical filtration). The outflow of the canister filter
passes water into the undergravel filter plate, and as the water
rises out of the plate is passes through layers of crushed coral
and coral sand. In hard water areas, the water may be
sufficiently hard and alkaline that chemical filtration is
redundant, and simply by performing regular water changes and
background changes in pH can be avoided.
Neolamprologus multifasciatus
While Tanganyikan cichlids are fairly adaptable
in terms of water chemistry, what they won’t forgive is failure
to maintain good water quality. These fishes are notably
intolerant of nitrate, far m ore so than most other freshwater
fish. The key things to avoid are overstocking, overfeeding, and
insufficient water changes. As a general rule, you want to aim
for a nitrate level of no more than 20 mg/l.
Decorating the Tanganyikan tank
Tanganyikan cichlids are well served with a tank containing
plenty of rockwork for hiding in, some open sandy areas for
foraging, and, in the case of the shell-dwellers, some empty
shells for spawning in. The traditional Tanganyikan cichlid
aquarium uses tufa rock for the rockwork, coral sand for the
substrate, and empty apple or edible snail shells for the
shell-dwellers. Plants aren’t a major part of the Lake
Tanganyika environment except around the mouths of the rivers
the empty into the lake. There, plants likeVallisneria and
Potamogeton can be found in abundance. While there’s no reason
not to add plants tolerant of hard water conditions to a
Tanganyikan aquarium, a lot of cichlids will either view them as
food or else destroy them while foraging or landscaping their
territories. Epiphytic plants, like Anubias and Java fern, are
likely to be easier to accommodate in the aquarium that species
that require a deep and largely undisturbed substrate.
Neolamprologus pulcher “Daffodil”
Social behaviour
While some Tanganyikan cichlids schooling fish that exhibit
little aggression or territoriality, this isn’t true for most
species and the aquarist must take care that each individual or
pair has enough space to satisfy its territorial needs. Many are
also aggressive towards any other species of similar shape and
size. For that reason, it’s often best to include only a single
species per genus. This minimises the chances of cross species
aggression.
While Malawian cichlids, especially mbuna, are
outgoing and easy to tame, Tanganyikan cichlids tend to be
rather shy and often nervous. An aquarium well provided with
hiding places will encourage them to settle down, but even then
these are fishes that get on with their own lives rather than
spend all their time begging for food. If you want robust,
friendly cichlids then Tanganyikans are generally not a good
choice. But if you enjoy watching the more natural aspects of
cichlid behaviour, the Tanganyikans can be very rewarding.
Altolamprologus calvus
Favourite Tanganyikans
The variety of Tanganyikan cichlids on the market is enormous,
but the following are a selection of species that are easily
obtained, known to do well in home aquaria, and generally
peaceful enough to coexist in a community tank alongside species
of similar size and temperament.
Altolamprologus calvus
This laterally compressed cichlid feeds on invertebrates and
small fish in the wild, but in the cichlid community tank it
poses no threat to tankmates larger than guppies. Live and
frozen foods of all types are accepted, though a mix of
bloodworms, brine shrimps, and the occasional small earthworm
works well. These are very mild cichlids and their tankmates
need to be similarly gentle. This is especially critical at
feeding time, when these slow feeders can easily lose out to
more boisterous tankmates. Several varieties are available,
collected from different parts of the lake. Maximum size is 15
cm for males and 10 cm for females. Sexual dimorphism is obvious
even with immature fish, the males having a more robust head and
larger fins. They do best in harems, with one male being kept
with a group of females.
Altolamprologus compressiceps
Similar to Altolamprologus calvus in shape and behaviour, this
is another relatively placid cichlid that works well in quiet
communities. Compared with Altolamprologus calvus, this species
is more deep bodied but with a shorter snout. As with
Altolamprologus calvus, there are many varieties of
Altolamprologus compressiceps available in the trade.
Cyphotilapia frontosa
The ‘frontosa’ is one of the most popular and easy
to keep Tanganyikan cichlids, suffering in only one regard:
size. Adults are 30-40 cm in length, with males being slightly
larger on average than the females. Obviously such big fish
require a massive aquarium, upwards of 700 litres. On the other
hand, these are spectacular fish with brilliant colours, and
male fish develop a very noticeable nuchal hump that makes them
very imposing fish. Despite their size, frontosa cichlids are
quite gentle animals that do best kept in groups. They are
predatory though, and will eat any fish small enough to swallow
whole. Captive specimens eat all sorts of foods other than live
fish though, including pellets. There are a few regional
varieties available in the trade.
Cyprichromis leptosoma
This is one of the ‘sardine cichlids’ that form schools in
open water, feeding on plankton. They rarely swim anywhere but
at the top of the tank, making them useful for adding movement
and colour to a community tank without overcrowding the hiding
spaces among the rocks. They also work as excellent dither fish,
encouraging shy benthic cichlids to leave their burrows or caves
and swim about in the open. They are basically hardy, but like
other open water fish require lots of swimming space so are not
suitable for small aquaria. Maximum size is about 12 cm, with
males being more colourful than the females. There are numerous
varieties in the lake, some of which are regularly traded.
Julidochromis ornatus
One of the most widely traded of the ‘julies’, Julidochromis
ornatus is a very pretty and basically easy to keep species, but
like other members of its genus, it is rather secretive and
rarely strays far from its cave. For this reason it is important
to provide them with food at the lower level of the tank. Wild
fish mostly scrape algae and small invertebrates from rocks.
Maximum size is 10 cm, with no reliable differences between the
sexes. They breed readily even in community tanks.
Neolamprologus brichardi
This cichlid is one of the most popular of all the
Tanganyikans thanks to its basically tolerant personality and
attractive colouration. Maximum size is about 10 cm, the female
being a trifle smaller than the male. Matched pairs are very
loyal to one another, and have proven to be excellent parents,
to the degree than these cichlids routinely rear sizeable
clutches of offspring even incommunity tanks. In aquaria at
least, older juveniles will help their parents defend younger
batches of fry. Easily satisfied in the aquarium, these cichlids
eat most foods, though live or frozen crustaceans will help them
develop their best colours.
Neolamprologus leleupi
Similar in size and shape to Neolamprologus brichardi, the
‘lemon cichlid’ Neolamprologus leleupi is one of the most
dramatically coloured of the Tanganyikans. Depending on the
variety, the basic colour is orange or yellow, with
varying amounts of electric blue on thefins and fins.
Intermsof basic care they are similar to Neolamprologus
brichardi but are a bit more aggressive and overtly territorial
Maximum size is 11 cm. In good condition, this is a superb
cichlid that rivals any saltwater fish but aquarium fish often
lack the bright colours of wild fish. A diet rich in carotene is
important to prevent this, for which reason the aquarist should
regularly provide these fish with plenty of live or frozen
crustaceans as well as occasional mouthfuls of colour enhancing
flake food.
Tropheus duboisi
Tropheus spp. are among the most aggressive Tanganyikans and
are best considered fish for their own tank rather than the
community. Another reason they should be kept alone is their
diet. They are strict herbivores, and even small amounts of
meaty food (such as flake or frozen bloodworm) causes them harm.
The ideal diet for them is algae, either fresh or in the form of
Spirulina flake, Sushi Nori, or similar. In terms of social
behaviour, they should be kept as a colony of a dozen or more
specimens. This will prevent bullying, but it does of course
mean that these relatively large fish (around 14 cm) can only be
kept in a big aquarium. Still, for all their problems these are
beautiful fish, and there are lots of different varieties
available. Tropheus duboisi is perhaps the mildest of all the
Tropheus and has sometimes been kept in large Tanganyikan
community aquaria, though this isn’t recommended.
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