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DIY wooden tank hoods 12/1/11 <Judy> I found a cheap way to build an aquarium hood that involves a wooden frame. It is here: http://www.plantgeek.net/article_viewer.php?id=11 I was wondering how someone who would build something like that would prevent mildew and warping? Do they need some kind of veneer?? Thank you Judy <For me, a coating of a waterproof material like Varathane. Oh, please read here re: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/canopycoatg.htm Bob Fenner> Tank Canopy Weight? (and more!) -- 10/27/11 T5 lighting, placement
12/29/10
Re: Old Tank, New Owner: Moving an established, yet
neglected tank. Tank Cover 3/20/09 Re: Tank Cover 3/21/09 Lighting, MH in Canopy 9/21/08 I currently have a 125 gallon semi-reef with compact fluorescent lighting. I would like to upgrade to Metal Halide but I only have about 5" between the top of the tank and the canopy (and would rather not build a new one). Am I stuck with what I have? <There are other options.> Any suggestions on other lighting options? <Well, the question is what you are trying to accomplish, what livestock additions do you plan to make that needs more lighting? That being said you could fit MH into the canopy, but I surely would not. Issues are heat buildup (with fans can be controlled), light spread (negligible in the front to back span of 125's), heat transfer to the tank (can be very significant) and the fixture/bulb getting splashed (it most certainly will in these close quarters). If you plan on obtaining livestock that requires more lighting, do consider either adding more PC's or switching to T5's. Either can keep a myriad of corals. The T5 fixtures definitely get my personal nod, although it may not be worth while if you already have PC's, depending on how much you now have and how much you will need. If you would like to go MH, it can be done depending on the look you want. In the past I have had the same issue and simply mounted some pendants above the canopy, while having cut out the top of the canopy beneath the fixtures. Up to you and your taste!> Thanks. <Welcome, Scott V.> Aquarium Lighting... canopy size limitation 5/28/2008 Hi, Hope you are all well. <Pretty spiffy, thanks> I am in sort of a dilemma. The canopy I had made, has a support beam down the middle front to back (who knew, I'm not a carpenter), leaving the available space at appx. 21.5"L x 16"w. Having trouble finding decent retrofits for PC mainly; all 65" units are listed and tested at 23-24". No one seems to do retro for the 18" lights - and they need to be single kits, one bulb each side lengthwise of the MH. FYI, with the end caps, all 22" CF are over 23" in length. I got a whole shipment from CA and while they looked pretty good and would 'almost' fit, let's put it this way - 3 out of 8 items actually worked and now I have to pay shipping back... All PFO are 24"; Hamilton only has the MH kit, which is nice but wow, bare for the $$. <We are in agreement, shock here> I am tempted to chop up the canopy I paid extra to have made taller for retro and get a silly Jebo light and be done with it, lol. I am not cheap but between all the attempts with CA, PFO, Hamilton, I could have bought 3 Odyssea lights already and used the canopy for kindling. Any advice on a 'real' custom lighting maker for retro? With real ballasts and reflectors that fit and don't look like they came out of a Reynolds Wrap box? Venting, sorry :) Take care <Am familiar with many domestic, and repatriated "foreign" brands (have just come back from a/"the" tradeshow there) of fixtures, reflectors... and concur that given the current size of the "box" canopy you have your choices are limited. I would choose between the two you list... modifying the current or... Bob Fenner>
Eggcrate to Keep Fish Inside Tank 3/29/08 I have a 180g reef w/sps, LPSs and softies and 55g refugium running for 2 yrs. Am using t5's and have had great success so far. <Great!> Have had problems w/wrasses jumping out. <This happens.> My tank is a euro type and I have eggcrate around the sides that do not have glass edges. I have my overflow covered. What kind of cover can I use for the rest of the tank that does not block light. <More of the eggcrate.> I have a canopy cover that holds the lights and cooling fans. Have had two Cirrhilabrus Wrasses jump completely out of the tank. These fish are great additions and I would really like to keep them but I don't want to interfere with the sps light situation. The t5's seem to really do a good job. SPS's are not only living, but they are growing! <The T5's can grow more than some think!> Currently have 4 Yellowtail Blue Damsels 2 Engineer Gobies 1 Pink Spotted Shrimp Goby 1 Foxface Rabbitfish 2 Blackaxle Chromis 1 Midas Blenny 1 Bristletooth Tang (flavicauda?) <That is one variety, see http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ctenocha.htm > 1 Green Mandarinfish 1 Copperband Butterfly 1 Lysmata Amboinensis Is eggcrate over the entire tank going to inhibit the light to a detrimental degree to the SPS's? <No, it will work fine.> I have Acropora, Pocillopora, Montipora Favia, Favites. Any help you can give is greatly appreciated. Roger Tisdale <Sounds like a nice system, eggcrate will keep everyone where they belong. Welcome, Scott V.> 55 Gal Canopy Weight 3/9/08 Hello. I am building a DIY canopy for my All-Glass 55 gal FW Planted aquarium. I was wondering what is a standard weight limit that I should strive for when finished? <Not really, obviously not excessively heavy. Brick canopies are out!> I am using solid red oak, and will have (2) 48" double shoplights mounted inside. I think the final weight will be somewhere around 45#. Should this be ok? Thanks a lot. <This will be fine, be sure to make the canopy contact along as much as the tank's edge as possible to avoid points with excessive pressure. Have fun, Scott V.> Clarifying the use of Egg Crate 1/19/08 Hello, <Marc> I was reading a comment Steven Pro made about the use of egg crate. You stated that one way it will intensify the lighting, is this with the taper up or down? One side is thick and one side is thin I believe. Thanks for your help. -Marc <The tapered side down, yes. Bob Fenner>
Metal Halide Canopy- How much height from top of canopy to top of light??? 8/12/07 Hey all! I've heard numerous things about making sure you mount your light 9-15" above the top of your aquarium, but how much space should you have between the top of your light and the top of your canopy?? <Mmm, mainly depends on what the canopy is made of (flash point and melting point wise) and how this might be insulated... can be "right next to" if thermally protected, the waste heat reduced through fans...> I'm custom making a canopy and trying to figure out how tall I need it to be. The light fixture(s) (Reef Optix III 250watt) is 4 inches tall. And I plan on keeping the light around 9-10" from the top of the aquarium. The aquarium is 30 inches deep. So far I only have 1 light, but will probably have a total of 3 eventually. Thank you! <Do look into non-corrosive insulation... like foam sheeting... at large hardware stores... Oh, and please have a read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/index.htm the second tray down... on Canopies... Bob Fenner> Tank Tops Hey Guys, Super Job (wise cracks and all): <Gotta have a laugh now and then, right? Scott F. with you this afternoon> Thanks for all of your help through this last month of my new journey. I have an All-Glass 55gal. The top is sectioned in half and has the double cover, single bulb combination. First, are they all like that? Could I have gotten a different maker of the same size without this partition/support thing in the middle? <There are many different configurations on the market, the one you have is fairly common> I want to replace the standard 40 watt 48" light with something more. I have seen doubles, but are there triples? <Once again, you can purchase hoods/fixtures in many different configurations> A triple would give me 120W, just what I would need, right (3watts per gal)?<Depends upon what you're trying to keep; for example, Tridacna clams require intensity that standard fluorescents generally cannot provide. For a fish only tank, or freshwater plants, this may be adequate. Again-largely depends on your animals/plants. Hard to generalize.> I think I have seen a quadruple, but that would cover the whole top? <In all likelihood, yes, but depends upon manufacturer's specifications> Can I get two 24" tops so I can leave one side on while I do stuff on the other? <Certainly a possibility-but remember, if your tank is exactly 48 inches wide, there may be some "overhang" on each side from the hoods. Have you considered one of the hanging pendant lighting systems? They are usually available in compact fluorescent and metal halide configurations, and may give you the access and flexibility that you want. Why don't you check out some of our advertisers' web sites for information on the various options available?> I also want to make my own cover(s); should I use Plexiglas or real glass or something else? And what thickness would be right?<This depends upon the type of light you are using. Lights that burn at high temperatures, such as HQI could damage Plexiglas/acrylic over time. Additionally, some of these lighting systems give off considerable UV radiation, and glass may be more appropriate to shield the inhabitants. Salt creep is another consideration. Much to think about here. Best to consult the tank/lighting system manufacturer and find out what they recommend.> When I cut slots for the HO filter space, heater and whatever else I need, how tight should they be? A couple of millimeters space or like none? Should I drill holes for air in the top? <Open tops favor gas exchange, but there are (once again) lots of considerations, such as fish that jump, evaporation, etc. If you are cutting holes for filters, etc, you can allow a little extra space for gas exchange. Not necessary to be air tight-but do think of the aforementioned considerations.> Sorry, I didn't mean to ramble...thanks! Rich <And thank YOU for stopping by!> Lighting Hi again, Currently, I've got 2 x 96 watts power compacts about 2-3" off a glass cover and cool it with a fan, but I don't think the glass cover is such a great idea because it blocks the light, accumulates a lot of salt, and also the canopy gets pretty hot after a few hours. What height would I have to place these lights off the surface of the water to not have the lights so they are still effective, but not ruined by the salt spray? <I would leave at 2-3 inches off of the water surface and instead attack the source of the salt spray. Remove any venturi airlines on powerheads, lower any spray bars, remove any airstones, use a bubble trap on your protein skimmer, etc.> Are there better solutions than glass covers? <Some people use egg crate material to stop fish from jumping out while allowing nearly full light.> I'd like to grow LPS corals, mushrooms and polyps. Thanks, Ben <You are welcome. -Steven Pro> MH and Oceanic canopies I'm still in the design phase of a 120 gal reef and I have been looking at the Oceanic 120 for the main tank with several Rubbermaid sumps in the basement below (more on this in future questions I'm sure). Do you have any experience with mounting MH bulbs in the Oceanic wood canopies. I appears everything will fit but I'm a little worried about having the bulbs so close to the water surface. The canopies appear to be only 6" or so tall. Thanks, Kenny <metal halide bulbs closer than 6" to water surface can be challenging... do be sure you will be keeping high light creatures that will favor this. MH though are typically mounted 6-9" off of the water surface... any higher is a waste of light/efficacy. As importantly, with a commercially designed tank, be sure that you get a model with large enough drain holes for a proper reef... too many tanks just have 2-3 holes for 1" pipe or smaller. This will be inadequate for a high light MH tank full of SPS corals that need very strong water flow. Browse through our archives on this subject (overflows) and do a google search of our site as well for such topics... there is much in the archived FAQs here. Anthony> Egg Crate Material Reference Lighting Hi Steven, Just a comment about using egg crate material to cover the tank instead of glass covers. I read somewhere a few years back, that an enterprising student studied the effect of egg crate material on light and discovered by turning the egg crate upside down (opposite of the way they use it in elevators and office buildings) it increased the fluorescent light intensity by almost 30%. Don't know if its true, but I thought I would share. Paul E. Proue of St. Joe Beach, FL <It is definitely true. Egg crate has distinct top and bottom sides. If you look closely you will notice that there is a slight taper to the plastic. Used one way it blocks out light, the other way it focuses the available light. -Steven Pro> Re: canopy and light design I think I'm nearly complete on the canopy and light design and, if you be good enough to make comments on the plan and open items, I'm done. 200 gallon 72L x 24 W x 27H. I will have clams and SPS corals. I am having a custom built canopy and stand that will be against but not built into the wall (but will have a built-in look) set two inches away from the wall, so air can travel behind the tank. So no "back" on the canopy other than the wall. The front 1/3 of the canopy will fold up on piano hinges and fold back on itself. The outside height of the canopy will be 14" high. The canopy will be made out of maple plywood. The inside of the canopy with be painted with white epoxy. The fixture will be a Custom Sea Life retrofit kit 3 x 250 Ushio 10000K MH with VHO (actinics?). The fixture is about 71" x 12.5" x 2" H. The fixture will be hung at least 1" from the underside of the roof of the canopy, so the bulbs will be about 10" from the top of the tank. Perry at Champion insists that I need a lens cover, acrylic Plexiglas would be fine, hung 2" beneath the fixture. It seems to me that this would interfere somewhat with access and may not be convenient to hang. Is it really necessary? He also believes fans are necessary and that it should be mounted on one end with a finger guard (is that a filter?) on the other end for optimal air flow. He thinks that the canopy should have a back so that together with lens cover the "heated air" is enclosed and kept away from the water and then sucked out by the fan. If I had to have a fan I would want it mounted in the top of the canopy? Do I need one, and if so, where should it be placed? So I'm still uncertain over fan location and the lens cover. Can you illuminate these issues? << Fan location: Yes you need fan(s). The idea is to keep the air moving to cool the canopy. There are some interest FAQs here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/lighting/canopyfaqs.htm and beyond about fan placement and if top/back/sides are best. The best placement is such that there are areas of stagnant air. Lens Cover: Excellent idea but acrylic too close to halide = melting!!!! Trap the air??? Never thought about that one. But keeping water spray out of the canopy is a good reason. May use coated glass to cut down on UV. Oh, to my knowledge, a finger guard is a metal protector over the blades of a fan for exactly that reason, guarding your fingers. There may be a foam filter as well>> As always, your input is valued. <<Thanks, Don>> Lawrence M. Benjamin Cost of a metal halide hood - 2/20/03 Hey <Hi. Paul back atcha'> I would like to know how much would a metal halide hood cost? <Depends on many things, the least of which is the size of your tank, what type of fixture, and brand.> Can you give me some web sites with cheap hoods? Thanks <There are a great many sites to find such. I would first think about what type of animals I plan to keep, what size tank I need to light, then I would look at the following links for information: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/lighting/mhmarfaqs.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/growingcorals.htm After this information has been assimilated, I would just click the various links that are advertised on this site and do a price comparison for the fixture you want. The links are on the right hand side and top of this page as well as here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/WWMAdminSubWebIndex/general_links_pg.htmBe sure to look under Retailers/E-tailers. Hope this helps! Regards Paul> MH lighting and custom hood. I have a 60 1/2x18 32deep with 4" crushed coral base 200lbs primo Fiji rock some soft/hard coals urchins, mushrooms, anemone, quite a bite of vegetation.1 1" red abalone didn't know it survived warm water still kicking need to build a top for tank. Daughter keeps putting scuba Steve in tank have glass top don't stop her. so my quest on is what would you do for lighting. Have a Solar Lighting Systems 6' to long 4 tank, with 6 55wat VHO fluorescent. I have access to any type of halide from 175-1000wat. I was thinking of putting 2 250 5500k metal halide and put my 6 55wt all aqua lux in custom hood. Or ma by 4 175wat halide. how high should I place lights from water going to put a 1 piece glass piece in hood with 3 squirrel cage blowers to removes heat. Have all types of interstitial ballast that will work. what is your option on ballasts. should I spend the money and get good ballast like a ice cape or something like that. Have all the ballasts and hook ups in any size to fit a army of tanks. Just need to by special bulbs. Or will the regular halide bulbs work didn't know the cal. on bulbs. have high preacher sodium, mercury vapor liquid cooled&non liquid cooled exa. all interstitial grade. Dad is electrician & has stocked pilled. What would you do?????? I know that probably going to have to buy bulbs, no problem just need to know how height to place off water .plan to have major reef tank. All I know is have to build top to keep hands out so mite as well do it all at once even if not ready yet always leave some lights off for now didn't really want to buy more VHO cost to much. my light was $450.hopping to use what have stocked pilled would like your opinion on situation.... <OK, I see 4 questions here, 1) What ballast to use, 2)Distance of MH from surface, 3)Wattage of bulbs, 4)Temperature (K) of the bulbs. If this is incorrect, let me know. Here goes, 1)The obvious answer is to use a ballast that will properly fire the bulb you get. Not all ballasts will fire all bulbs. Check with the manufacturer. As far as brand is concerned, I have seen ballasts from $40(US) to $200(US) You will have to look at the pros and cons of each and decide 2)8-10" is recommended for Metal Halide and as close as possible for the fluorescent. 3)A 32" deep tank (28 after substrate) with SPS and anemone would benefit from 2 250W bulbs. 4) 5500K will not do. Go to at least 7100K or even 10000K. Ushio and Aqualine/Buschke (AB) are bulb manufacturers recommended by many. BTW, keeping corals and anemones that require such a wide range of lighting needs (corallimorphs to SPS/Anemones) will be very challenging. You might want to rethink your livestock list. Don> Light Hood and Tank Access I'm reading The Conscientious Marine Aquarist -- very good information. <Yes, an asset to anyone in the hobby> My question is a practical one. I have a 55 gallon tank (48X13X20). I have a Hamilton oak light hood (halide/CF) which is 50X12X7.5. It covers most of the top of the tank. I cannot hang the hood from above. I can't scoot the hood back because of the hoses/cords hanging over the back lip of the tank. Can you think of a workaround so that I can access the tank daily for feeding, etc. without having to lift the hood and setting it on the floor? I also use glass canopies, half of which folds up to access the tank. I can't move the hood enough to fold up the canopy. Is there a way to make a miniature, say 4X4, opening or door in the front right of the glass canopy or use a plastic canopy and make a little door? That way I could perhaps move the hood enough to get access to a little opening. <Yes, this is why customized and DIY hoods are popular. If your glass top is similar to others I have seen, it has a plastic strip that acts as a hinge between the two pieces of glass right? You should be able to remove the smaller piece (normally the front) by sliding it out of the hinge. Any glass shop should be able to cut the glass to give you what you want. Or, you could replace the smaller piece of glass with plastic eggcrate to give access to the tank. Eggcrate is used as a diffusion panel in overhead lighting. It is sold by home/hardware stores in 2ft x 4ft panels. Hope this gives you some ideas, Don> Lifting it off weekly is not a problem, but lifting it off daily or twice a day is tedious and increases the risk of breakage. Am I the only one that has problems with a hood that covers the entire top of the tank? I've never read this question anywhere. <Certainly not the only one. I have seen some very clever uses of drawer slides and hinges used for the tops of chests that solve the problem. Most of these designs are on DIY sites so you would have to be pretty handy with woodworking tools to accomplish some of these.> Thanks, Randy Re: metal halide cover hello, <Hi Eric, PF here tonight> I am building a new canopy for my 55 gallon tank. It will house 2 175 w MH with Ushios and a 55w actinic power compact. My question is should I have any glass protecting the bulbs from splash <I'd say yes, and as UV filters too.>, and how high should the halides be off the water? <10" - 12" is standard from what I've read/done.> Also I am switching over from all fish to a reef, I had 65 lbs of live rock and a tomatoe clown in this tank, I have a sump with 10 lbs of miracle mud with bio balls in the water. I cannot seem to get nitrates under 40 <Yipes!> I do regular water changes, the tank has been set up for about 2 years, thanks <Well, MM should be used with a nutrient export method: i.e. macroalgae. The official EcoSystem method advises Caulerpa, but I'm not fond of Caulerpa as it causes to many problems. IMO Chaetomorpha is a much better choice. You didn't mention a skimmer on your system, also you might want to look into using a DSB to help reduce your nitrates.> Distance from lights 3/25/04 I am building a canopy for my 90 gallon tank...I have purchased a DIY kit with 2x250 metal halides and 2x46.4 inch VHO's What would be the ideal height I would want each light from? I have heard that the metal halides should be 6 inches and VHO's 2 or 3? Does it really matter? <It isn't super critical. The closer to the water you get, the more light you will get into the tank, but there are practical limits in terms of splash risk and being able to work in the thank. The distances you stated are reasonable ideal goals, but you will likely find that a bit higher is more practical, and that is fine. I would recommend staying within about 10" of the surface, though. Best Regards. Adam> The Dreaded Hex! >hello! >>Greetings. >first time "question asker" kind of a beginner with saltwater tanks. Here's the dillio. I have a 30 gallon hex (was a free gift) with over 30 lbs of live rock, a wavemaker, and a filter (soon to be replaced by a protein skimmer [SeaClone 100]), recently added a cleanup crew of some hermits and emerald and sally light foot crabs, and bubblers (do I need to get rid of those??). >>The emerald (a.k.a. Mithrax) and Sally Lightfoots (one of three possible species), you very well may need to. Not always known for being polite customers. As for the bubblers, the salt creep they generate will help you along with your decision one way or the other. >Well the main question I have is!! . . . what can I do for some great lighting? I don't want to do a metal halide because I plan on moving in probably 5 months from now (or my roommate probably won't approve of how it looks hanging from the ceiling as it does) and there are no compacts that can fit with the top of the tank being 20" across. I recently found an Aqualight Deluxe 20" exuding 96 watts. Should I just go with it or is there someone out there that can take this hex to other places than 3 watts per gallon. >>Well, I don't see why you can't go with power compact fluorescents at all. You'll be somewhat limited as to what you can keep in terms of photosynthetic creatures, but you may be able to create a "bank" of lights, or go with the MH lights post-move anyway (5 months in terms of setting up a reef and getting it going really isn't a very long time). >I don't really want to put in that much time making a hood with a compact. I'd rather buy another tank than do that, but are there other stories I can hear about overcoming the dreaded Hex? Can someone just make me a hood and sell it to me on eBay, please?!?! >>I'm sure someone could, but you'd have to ask them. >p.s. the top is glass (looks custom made) -Michael >>Right, well, there you have it. Or, stick with entirely non-photosynthetic animals and you'll have no worries on the lighting front. Marina Metal Halides above water - 11/22/04 Hello, <Hey Brent!> I have a 55 gallon aquarium that I'd like to add metal halides. Since my canopy is 7 inches, about 6 inches off of the surface of the water, it seems through reading the FAQs that I'll have to build a custom canopy. Can you tell me how high the canopy should be? <Well it is more important to note how high the recommendation for halides to be above the surface of the water. I would suggest 7-10 inches above the water (minimum) and definitely incorporate a fan or two into the canopy for cooling and moving the trapped heat out of the canopy. Do search the internet (via Google, Dogpile, or Yahoo) for DIY canopies. See if there are any helpful DIY plans available. Good luck ~Paul) Thanks, -Brent Building your own metal halide system and canopy Hi crew, I hope all is well, and if its not, I hope it gets better. I just finished building my own canopy to house my metal halide system. It is built out of pine. My MH are complete DIY, with a reflector. Do 250 HQI's get hot enough to warrant some insulant between the reflectors and the wood( I spent hours making it, don't want it to turn to ashes just yet)? << I don't think so, but I would certainly have fans in there for water heat reasons, and I guess for wood heat reasons. >> Is painting the inside of my canopy white sufficient to reflect light? << No way! For about $10 you can buy fantastic reflectors which make all the difference in the world. Best money you will spend on your tank. >> I also want to address everyone who asks a question to you guys. There is a donation area to keep these guys up and running. I figure about 1-2 dollars for every email you send to this site is more than worth it. The information is invaluable, and it will keep them here. I figure I have asked about 10 questions this year, so I'll be sending them $20. It is expensive to run a site, so let's all chip in!!! << Well that is awful nice of you. I think that is a little high, and I feel bad seeing you pay that much. I think $.02 is fine (like asking for my two cents on something). You know if you really want to, write in a question about advertising for a certain price (I have no idea how much) Cesnales will put an add for you on our site. We appreciate the donations, and we are here to help. >> Thank you crew. James P Rhode Island << Blundell >> Building your own metal halide system and canopy continued The metal halides will have a polished reflector. Would covering the remaining interior of the canopy with silver Mylar work? << Not really. I did this on a tank once. It was great for about 8 months but eventually the salt creep just ate it away. A polished aluminum reflector is definitely the way to go, and I wouldn't worry about using anything else. If you can, just use more of it. >> Thanks again. James << Blundell >> - Canopy Completion - Hi crew - <Hi.> Hope all is well, my next step is to wire a direct hotline to you guys to save on typing. <Can it be a 900 number?> I cannot thank you and your website enough for the information provided while upgrading my tank. Lighting is the only part I am uneasy about. I have upgraded from PC's to HQI halides. I have built my own canopy- and I would sleep better if I get your approval/suggestions on it- <Ok.> It's going to be a 90 gallon tank, with mixed corals, a lot of LPS and SPS. My lighting is DIY HQI- 2-250w with Ushio 10,000K bulbs. Since I don't really want a suntan (Irish), I will be sealing the top half of the canopy (where the bulbs are) with 1-inch glass. <One inch? Won't that be incredibly heavy?> The bulbs will be about 10 inches off the surface when installed. Under the glass- I will have 2-80 CFM fans blowing through the canopy. Above the halides, I will have 2- 30 CFM fans blowing upwards. Directly above the halides will be a polished aluminum reflector. The rest of the canopy will be coated in silver Mylar reflective covering. I installed a dual closed loop system in the canopy, but I am confident in the plumbing area. I am kind of seeking a "stamp of approval" on my setup, and any suggestions would be helpful. <Sounds good to me. Make sure your plans to "seal the top" of the canopy and lighting don't make the canopy too heavy to maintain OR make it impossible to swap out bulbs. Other than that, it all sounds good.> The info you provide to the general public on fishkeeping is more than helpful. You guys (and gal) have guided me through a complete overhaul of my tank. Thank You. James P Providence, RI <Cheers, J -- > Hood Options, Hex Tank 1.8.05 <Hello, Ryan with you today.> Ok, every time I look at your site, which is a lot, I find myself with another question; well here goes. My 44 gal. Pentagon tank has fairly insufficient lighting, only two 15W fluorescent bulbs for a 25'' deep tank. Problem is the hood that came with my tank is unable to support any other lighting system. So I went to my hardware store and made my own hood out of 1/8" thick Plexiglas. I can only fit at most a 20"Lx6"W lighting system on top. <Have you considered using a MH pendant?> I only wish to boost my coralline growth, but I was thinking of the Satellite light fixtures(?), I forget the proper name at the moment, which is only 10W more powerful than what I have now, but much more light will be able to enter the aquarium. <I have used the fixtures you're thinking of. They worked well for a moderately lit tank.> Anyways, is Plexiglas a very good material for this purpose, and if so, would the light system be flush with the Plexiglas hood, or rest above it so that the lights are approx. 3" or so above the hood. <I'd give a bit of room for air- And hands, etc.> Thank you so much and sorry for flooding your mailbox with questions. Thanks again! <No problem! Ryan> -David Hume DIY Hood And Lighting Greetings To The Best Knowledge Base Around! I have read many of you faq's on lighting and am narrowing down a setup that is right for my pets. I am an employee of Lowe's home improvement and naturally I have been looking through our lighting dept. I have decided upon constructing a hood from wood to match my stand, and plan to add five fluorescent bulbs- Four 10000k Ocean Sun 32 watt T-8 and One Coral life actinic blue 40 watt T-12. all 48" bulbs with the T-8's on a four bulb ballast, and the T-12 on a single T-12 ballast. I had planned on mounting the ballasts in the tank stand away from the hood. <And carefully... away from where waste heat might cause troubles> This is for a 55 gallon 48"x18"x12". <Mmm, s/b 13" wide... or my memory is bunked out... again> I have not seen much talk about using these type bulbs for corals or anemones, only the halides and other high-dollar setups. Will my lighting plan satisfy a bubble-tip or some types of corals? Thank you for any suggestions. <Will... but "barely"... however sufficient from my point of view. As you will come to understand, you could bring to bear much more photonic energy here... but, there are downsides to driving photosynthesis... these are covered in the extreme in archived FAQs on WWM. Bob Fenner> Aquarium lighting I currently have a 55 gallon tank (standard) with 4 x 55 watt PC. Two are 10000K white and the other two are 03 actinic blue. I know that this amount of light limits some types of corals I can keep, so I recently upgraded to 2 x 175 w MH. I plan on building a canopy and incorporating all of the lighting under this canopy. First of all I was wondering if you knew of any good canopy plans for such a common size tank. <Hello Corey. I'd copy one of the nicer hoods from a dealer. I would suggest a hood where the whole top opens which makes it easier to clean the tank without having to take the hood off.> I think I am leaning towards suspending it from the ceiling to avoid having to buy a chiller. Also do you think this would be too much light? <Definitely not too much light.> I would like to keep lower light loving species as well (i.e. mushroom coral). Another option I was considering was taking apart my PC fixture (same one as described above) and assembling it into a hood for my 15 gal. tall sitting beside my other tank. I have some anemones and corals in both tanks that would enjoy a lighting upgrade. What would be a good way to "divvy up this light" so to speak. I also have a spare 48 in 40 watt 50/50 fixture I plan to throw in the mix. <I would use one 10K with an actinic. James (Salty Dog)> Thanks, Corey Lights in a Canopy? Good day, I have been reading through this site for several weeks now and think that it is really a wonderful forum. Thank you to everyone that participates and shares their skill. <Welcome> I have about 30 years in freshwater and I am starting my first marine tank this year. I have a lighting question that I have not found in the archives. I built a stand and canopy for a 48" 90 gallon AGA drilled tank. The more I research lights the less I want the bulbs fixed to the top lid (retrofit kits) do you see a problem with using one of the common aluminum fixtures inside the canopy (like the Aqualight)? <Mmm, for marine use, yes... the aluminum reacts with seawater, the residue from this is toxic to livestock> There is about 8" across the back for airflow and 8" of height inside. I plan on one 4" fan as a pusher and one as an exhaust in the canopy I would prefer MH on the tank but the common thread that I am reading is that they are so hot I would (or should) be worried about them starting the canopy on fire (it is oak). <Mmm, can be fitted with a non-metallic thermal buffer, reflector behind, twixt the wood, fixture> I was able to find a manufacturer that will put six 96-watt PC bulbs in an aluminum housing. I believe this will allow me some good options for more light hungry inverts. What are you opinions on enclosing MH in a canopy? <This is posted... can be done... with cooling fans> If I go the PC route I was thinking about four 10k bulbs and two 50/50s, do you think that would allow room for growth down the road? <Also posted... I am a bigger fan of boosted fluorescent technology than metal halide in water depths (not tank note) of less than two feet... Others opinions here vary> Is lighting the most bewildering subject or do I have another surprise coming Filters seem easy by comparison? <Heeee! You'll see. Do make sure that whatever fixture you employ is resistant to marine |
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