FAQs on Dartfish Disease/Health
Related Articles:
Dartfishes,
CA: Family Microdesmidae, the Worm- and Dartfishes by Robert Fenner and
Anthony Calfo,
Gobies
Related FAQs:
Dartfish 1,
Dartfish 2, Dartfish Identification, Dartfish Behavior, Dartfish Compatibility, Dartfish Selection, Dartfish Systems, Dartfish Feeding, Dartfish Reproduction,
See the egg sacs of the parasitic copepod under the
Nemateleotris pectoral fin?
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Ptereleotris zebra curious behavior
7/2/15
Hello,
<Howdy>
One of my Ptereleotris zebra is showing a curious behavior, wondering what do
you think.
<Let's see>
First, some historical context is in order. Back in 2013 I contacted you
regarding the behavior of a group of Ptereleotris zebra I had. One year later I
have lost two due to jumping out of the water,
<Oh so common>
with just one remaining. Lesson learned, my tank is covered now.
The lonely one has been mostly fine, although it became more shy than before.
<I hope I've mentioned that this is a social species... Not all Microdesmids
are, but this one and a few others NEED to be kept in a group... a few to
several individuals>
Anyway when I fed the tank it came out immediately.
Suddenly, about two months ago, I witnessed three panic attacks while eating.
The fish jumped out of the tank, barely squeezing through a corner. Fortunately
I was there, so I could put the fish back into water immediately.
<See above>
It happened three times. And that brought the social question, I was wondering
whether it was a result of being alone with other fishes
<Yes>
(a group of seven Chromis viridis, a Centropyge bicolor, a Nemateleotris decora,
4 Sphaeramia nematoptera and one Zebrasoma flavescens).
I have been avoiding to add fishes because I had some metal contamination
problem long ago, wiping all my corals, but, well, it was time with the issue
apparently solved (even Xenia died, now I have thriving Anthelia, some Zoanthus,
and some other "softs") and some time for the tank with several days off.
So, I ordered three fishes from my LFS. The three turned out to be four, because
the LFS guy wanted an extra one just in case one was DOA. I took the four of
them home because leaving one at the LFS would have been a bad idea (nobody
around my area keeps P. zebra as far as I know) and one more wouldn't make a
difference.
After acclimation, when releasing them, I noticed that one of the fishes was
severely battered. But I didn't worry too much because it behaved normally and I
saw it eating frozen mysis like crazy. Several days later it showed no sign of
damage and it's doing fine. In fact I can't tell which one of the five fishes it
is.
I haven't had many problems, apart from some social displays, a couple of
chasing incidents or so, and some barbel exhibitions without any consequences.
Rather than one burrow now there are several of them (the substrate is a DSB
made with "oolitic" aragonite)
<I'd mix in some rubble... more stable for burrows>
and the five fishes
just distribute themselves into two burrows. I can't know if they just choose a
burrow at random or I have two gangs :)
<No big>
What I have noticed is a marked difference in daring character, something I have
often observed in Dartfishes.
<Ah yes>
The surprising thing is, one of the fishes behaves in a strange way. It likes to
lie down on a cleaning magnet, which is (for me) a surprising behavior for a
Dartfish. Other than that it doesn't do anything odd. It eats perfectly (I
should say gorges) and I haven't seen it being bullied by the others. Anyway it
sleeps with one of the gangs.
Several years ago I had a Nemateleotris decora that went apparently went senile
after two or three years with me. It just sat in a corner on the sand bottom,
swimming up to feed when I added food, and being rather unresponsive to my
presence. It spent maybe two or three months in that state before dying.
But this zebra doesn't look senile at all, and it indeed reacts when I move in
the same room. Also, it turns to be the most daring of them, usually the first
one to come out of a burrow even when there's no food.
Whatever, adding more companions has solved the "panic" problem. No more
incidents since I added them, which is great. :)
<Good>
Any ideas? I have no idea of which of the fishes it is. I mean, might be the
veteran or one of the newcomers.
Thanks!
Borja.
<Enjoy! Bob Fenner>
Re: Ptereleotris zebra curious behavior
7/2/15
> I haven't had many problems, apart from some social displays, a couple
> of chasing incidents or so, and some barbel exhibitions without any
> consequences. Rather than one burrow now there are several of them (the
> substrate is a DSB made with "oolitic" aragonite)
> <I'd mix in some rubble... more stable for burrows>
This is interesting. Can these fishes use rubble to improve their burrows? I
still have a bottle of medium-coarse calcium reactor substrate and I no longer
use a reactor. Would be a good way to make it useful.
<Yes>
I have noticed that they burrow with a rather brute force approach, just pushing
and twisting their bodies to displace sand (and making the water very turbid for
several hours :) ). Another fish I've seen burrowing, the A. rainfordi, does it
with much more finesse, taking small mouthfuls of sand and disposing of them
outside of the burrow.
Thanks!
Borja.
<Thank you. B>
white hairs on zebra dart fish 10/24/13
I have 4 of these little guys in my 90 gallon reef tank. All of my fish
are non aggressive and get along fine. I noticed that this guy had these
little white hairs coming out. Do you know what these are and should I
remove the fish, or try to remove the fish?
<Yeeowch! I do know... these are almost assuredly the
podial spines of a Bristleworm... The dart got too dang close... They
will wear, fall out on their own over time; I would not try catching the
fish... too much stress alternatively.
Bob Fenner>
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Re: white hairs on zebra dart fish
10/25/13
Thanks Bob, it all makes sense now. I do have bristleworms.
<Ah yes; Microdesmids DO live "with" such... I would be considering
baiting/trapping and removing some of the larger part of the Errantiate
Polychaete herd here. A bunch re archived on WWM re Bristleworm
Compatibility FAQs. Cheers, BobF> |
Fire fish lethargic – 09/9/13
Hi crew!
Almost 3 weeks ago I put a Purple Firefish into a QT.
<Hope this tank is covered! Microdesmids are great "jumpers">
The first week or so he was doing ok.
<Mmm, see WWM; this is as long as I'd isolate this "type" of fish
should...
Too likely to starve, get too stressed>
He was hiding under plastic rock ledges but at least he was hovering
over the bottom of the tank. For the last week or so he has been just
sitting on the bottom. He'll go after food but not out of his way. He is
not scratching nor are there any spots. His abdomen seems to be a little
contorted. I think he may have an intestinal parasite.
<... see WWM re>
I tried treating with PraziPro but that did nothing. After researching WWM
I decided to add Metronidazole to his tank. What is the time frame to
wait to see improvements and/or remove medicine? Thank you!!
Jennifer
<... I would only expose the fish once... And be moving it to permanent
quarters. See WWM re the family. Bob Fenner>
Re: Fire fish lethargic – 09/9/13
Hi Bob,
There is a lid on the QT. Thank you for the info. I'll be moving him
soon:)
Jen
<Ah, good. Am sure you'll both be much happier. Cheers, BobF>
Hurt Firefish 12/12/12
Hello,
<Brent>
I have a question about one of my Firefish (Nemateleotris magnifier)
(Indonesia) . I noticed that the top dorsal fin has been damaged.
It appears to be split.
<I see this in your image>
Although the picture doesn't show it, but a part of the fin has been
broken off at the top, because it is now shorter than shown in the
photo. I haven't noticed any other tank mate picking on it. I have
noticed that when he is out of one of his hiding places, he rests down
on the bottom of the tank behind a rock.
<About what they do in the wild... in pairs. How large is this system?
What other tankmates, life there?>
If this makes sense, he is laying there like he is sick, but rather
resting. I can't help but think that it is impacting him. What I
don't know is: 1) Do we know if it would be in pain from the splitting
of its fin?
<Not likely, no>
2) If he ends up loosing <losing> his fin, is it gone for good, or do they
develop these back?
<Not likely to lose, and should grow back... given "good conditions">
I assume gone for good. 3) If it doesn't grow back, what purpose does it
serve? Would this negatively impact or handicap it in any way?
<Mmm, hard to say... likely some negative impact; balance,
maneuverability wise>
I'm not sure what purpose, if any, this long fin served. I'm just
not sure how to care for it under this situation. I have attached a
photo to help explain what its situation is. Thanks for your help. Brent
<Do read re Microdesmids on WWM: Start here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/drtfshsysfaqs.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
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Re: Hurt Firefish (reply for your request for additional
information) 12/12/12
Hello Bob,
<Hey Brent>
Sorry about the couple of misspellings. That's what I get for moving too
fast.
<No worries. We try to keep spelling and grammar correct to aid search tools
in going over the site>
Thanks for the reply. You asked about other tank-mates. Presently, there
is another Firefish, Yellow Watchman Goby, Gold Head Goby, Carpenter's
Flasher Wrasse, Lime Green Wrasse,
<Thalassoma lutescens? Needs room... lots>
Cardinal, Two pairs of Clown Fish (Black/White & Orange/White). None of them
seem to even act like they know the damaged Firefish is there. It is a
rather peaceful tank.
Any significance in the other tank-mates?
<May be that one of the gobies, the other Firefish, wrasse could be
harassing the one>
You say, it possibly may grow back under "good conditions". Besides the
normal good conditions, is there anything that is particularly important?
<Please read where you were referred. Too much to (re) list here>
The tank it is in currently is in great condition and well maintained.
Thanks again.
Brent
<Cheers, BobF>
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Constipated Firefish 6/11/12
Good afternoon!
I recently set up a 5 gallon SW aquarium in my class room.
<Mmm, small volumes... not much room... for error or keeping>
pH is at 8.2, Ammonia is 0, Nitrate is 0 and Nitrite is 0. Salinity is right at
1.025.
Living in this little habitat is a friendly Firefish named Ferdinand.
We've had him for about 2 weeks. He is a great eater, and is currently eating a
combo of Ocean Nutrition Spirulina flakes and Spectrum pellets.
<I'd sub something small, frozen/defrosted for the flakes>
I noticed today when feeding that he appears to be constipated. He
has a bit of a lump on his belly.
<Mmm, this could be "a few things"...>
His appetite is healthy and he doesn't appear to be in any distress at
all. I have had success doing Epsom salt dips with other constipated fish, but
I'm having trouble finding a good dosage to use for this little guy. What would
you recommend?
<None at this point>
Also, should I modify his diet to prevent this from happening in the future?
<See above>
Thank you so much for your time!
<Welcome! Bob Fenner>
--
-Aron
Firefish tail trauma
5/25/12
Thanks for your wonderful website! I search it frequently for advice and
assistance. This question is quite specific, so I haven't been able to
locate a similar passage. I obtained a purple Firefish from the LFS
approximately 1 month ago. The poor fish was being pretty beat up by
others at the LFS, so I felt sorry for him and brought him home. He had
already been in copper at the LFS for 6 weeks. I fresh-dipped him and
placed him in the quarantine tank. (My quarantine tank is painted black,
so a little hard to see the fish well during his stay in quarantine for
two weeks) I don't like to use medication unless absolutely necessary
<We are in agreement>
so I decided to just watch him closely. He's acted wonderfully normal
during both his stay in quarantine and subsequent placement in the main
aquarium. It's a peaceful community tank (pajama cardinals x 2,
yellow-head goby, royal gramma)
<Uhh, not w/ this last... Grammas are quite aggressive toward
Microdesmids... they both/occupy about the same niche/habitat>
in a 50 gallon tank. Everyone gets along rather nicely. I've been soaking
their food with both garlic (daily) and Selcon (twice a week) to help
their immune systems.
The firefish's top frayed fins have healed. However, the lower tail fin
continues to have a translucent appearance with black lines running
through it.
<This may be the enduring appearance>
They almost look like veins. Please review the pictures I have sent. Is
this something to be concerned about?
<Not really; no>
Does he need to be placed back in quarantine? or receive antibiotics?
<No and no>
It just doesn't look like the tail rot I've seen pictures of or read
descriptions on various web sites. The tank parameters are healthy:
Nitrates, ammonia, Phos - all zero. I run a protein skimmer 24/7 with
live rocks and corals.
Thank you for your assistance,
Joan
<Thank you for sharing. Bob Fenner>
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Re: Firefish tail trauma
Bob,
<Joan>
One last request for advice ~ From the statement below {It's a peaceful
community tank (pajama cardinals x 2, yellow-head goby, royal gramma)
<Uhh, not w/ this last... Grammas are quite aggressive toward
Microdesmids... they both/occupy about the same niche/habitat>
in a 50 gallon tank.}
So far, the two are not competing for food and space. I'm hopeful this will
continue due to the size of the tank. However, I have a pyramid snail
population that is growing. I was planning to add one last fish in the next
few weeks to deal with this situation. After researching for hours, I
thought my safest option is a canary wrasse.
<Meiacanthus? Yes if so>
It's a reef tank, so I know
that's a slight risk as well as the Firefish compatibility, but I wasn't
sure what else to do. There are no clams in the tank, but quite a few corals
and larger snails. Thoughts? As always, I sincerely appreciate your advice.
Joan
<If there's too much "dissonance" twixt the two, the new, I'd put the
protagonist (use two nets... hard to catch; may have to remove rock,
decor...) to a floating, plastic colander (yep, spag. strainer) in the tank.
BobF>
Re: Firefish tail trauma – 5/26/12
Bob,
"[After researching for hours, I thought my safest option is a canary
wrasse.
<Meiacanthus? Yes if so>"
Do you mean a canary blenny or a canary wrasse?
<The Halichoeres Wrasse... mea culpa>
I'm happy to go with the Blenny, but I haven't found information regarding
it eating the pyramid snails, only the dining patterns of the wrasse. Please
clarify my slight confusion.
<Sorry for my part>
Thanks and I won't bug you the rest of the holiday weekend!!
Joan
<Not a bother. BobF>
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Firefish goby dies over night -- 12/29/11
Hey crew,
<Adam>
First off awesome site and very useful. I looked trough the index and
found a couple possible answers to my question of why my new
Firefish goby
<Singular? Are social species; given to easy
stressing>
died overnight. I recently bought him and dripped the fish for almost 3
hours also putting the heater in to make sure water temp matched after
such a long period of still water. The goby appeared fine and was
put in with a red coral banded shrimp
<Predaceous>
( who I've since removed for picking on the goby- I know mistake).
He seemed a lot happier after that and started moving about more but
was still timid.
<As Microdesmids are>
To give you the whole picture I have had this 30gal
tank for a little more then 6 months. I started with a cleaner shrimp
then added two Clarkii clowns. I also have 4 blue
hermits, 1 emerald crab and 4 turbo snails. And lastly a LTA
anemone.
<Too likely to have problems... anomalous deaths, consumption by
this Anemone in such a small volume>
Everyone lived great together. The cleaner shrimp died last week and I
found him under the filter so I'm assuming he got caught while
trying to molt and that was the end. I have about 20 pounds if not a
little more of live rock. I plan on adding more.
<I wouldn't. Better to have more water volume, space>
The goby was introduced about 6 days ago and again seemed to do fine
the clown fish loved him and they slept next to each other side to side
at times. Since I removed the red banded coral shrimp 3 days later like
I said, he seemed to be great. Yesterday I added a new cleaner and a
small dwarf angel my last additions.
<... this system is too small for a Centropyge Angel and the
Clowns>
The angel took territory over on the right side of the tank and goby
left side. They didn't bother each other and the goby actually
became more active by the time I fell asleep. I thought " wow the
angel cheered him up!" I had the lights off for a good 5 then my
timer turned on the light. I woke up to a dead goby who is now on the
opposite side if the tank?
<In a word, the cause here: "stress">
After I tried moving some things to see if he was alive I saw him
restless on the bottom moving with the current. He wasn't breathing
and I notices his color went from awesome last night to being very dark
in the middle and one side had a huge protruding bubble on one
side.
What could have happened over night?
<Damage... from the other fish/es or trauma from dashing into the
rock, side>
I checked my levels at the LFS ( ran out of tabs) and water was
perfect.
Salinity was a tad high but the gobies water when introduced was of
similar quality. Any ideas?
<See above>
I noticed since my anemone likes to hang up on the glass between a
heater and a corner ( is this okay by the way?)
<No; too likely to get burned>
I turned down the heaters out put so it didn't fry my anemone.
Could the slightly colder side of the tank have been the reason?
<Perhaps another source of stress, but not by itself>
I have another heater on the other side that was set only 5 degrees
higher then the others.
Just want clarification on why this beautiful goby died on me so
quick.
Thanks guys,
Adam Hirschberg
<Best to review, look into what is posted on WWM re all the species
you currently house here, AND anything you intend to add. Bob
Fenner>
Question I have a Nano 6gal reef tank
2/22/11
<VERY hard to keep such small systems>
and this am notice my fire fish was gasping for air at
the bottom was fine last night eating great!. Checked all parameter
everything is in range could a fish just die like that with no reason?
(ph 8.4, temp 80, am o, nitrate 30 , KH 10) have a couple of mushrooms
and a clown fish in tank as well as a cleaner shrimp a couple of snails
and crabs and sand snails. tank has been up for 7 months with no
probs.
Maria
<Some simple change likely resulted in too low dissolved oxygen. The
Microdesmid needs higher DO than the Clown. Bob Fenner>
Could a worm be harming my fish? 1/7/10
Hi there,
<Hello>
About a week and a half ago, I notice this worm in my tank, it
was long (maybe 6 inches long 5-7mm in diameter, and can stretch
I think), brown and looked as if it had bumpy skin, or very
freckled skin. One end of the worm
seems to 'suction' itself on the live rock and move along
in that way. I'm not sure what kind of worm this is, but I
thought maybe that's the way it eats off the live rocks, so I
didn't give much thought to it and let it be.
On Sunday this week, I put in a Firefish, yellowtail damsel, and
clown fish
<All social animals...>
in my tank (about 60 gallons, it had just completed cycling).
They all seem very peaceful, and doesn't appear to be any
bullying etc. Today, when I was feeding my Firefish, I noticed on
one side of its body, there's a circular bulge, and there is
a small indent in the middle of the bulge - like a ring. If you
look front on, you see the bulge sticking out, but if you look
side on, you can see the indent in the middle. The size of this
'circular bulge' is similar to the size of that worm I
mentioned. Could that worm have 'suctioned' itself on the
fish and caused this? Or could it have been something else?
<Yes and yes>
Oh, and yesterday, I fed my fish frozen brine shrimp, and the
Firefish ate some and then threw it up pretty much straight away.
I looked on the forums and read that maybe the fish just
doesn't like the food, so I put in a bit of flake food to see
if the fish would throw that up too, but it ate that just fine,
and has been eating fine this morning. I don't know if
that's relevant to whether it could have caused the bulge
since it looks as if it's an external thing. Right now, the
fish doesn't appear to be doing anything out of the
ordinary.
I would send you a photo, but my camera has a dead battery so
I'll try to post one when it finishes charging.
Thanks for your help,
KC
<I'd keep an eye on the worm... and read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/polychaewmcompfaq2.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Pic - Re: could a worm be harming my fish?
1/7/10
Hi again,
Here's a picture of the fish, it's rather blurry... you
can sort of see the bulge, I couldn't take it from the side
on to show you the small 'indent' because it just comes
out as white on the camera. After paying some more attention to
the fish today, it doesn't seem as if it's swimming
around as freely now. Most of the day, it was hiding in one of
the holes as if it's sleeping. When it does come out,
it's not swimming around as usual and just seems to be
hovering in the water, in the middle of the tank. And it's
not interested in any food either now. Any idea what could be the
cause of this? And what can I do about it?
<Could be predation... from the worm or... Or resultant from a
physical trauma... or...>
I tested my water a few hours ago..
Salinity: 1.023, PH: 7.8,
<A bit low>
Ammonia: 0, Nitrite: 0, Nitrate: 0, KH: 9-10, Temp:81-82
Thanks!
KC
<Welcome, and keep reading... on WWM, re Microdesmids, your
other
livestock. Bob Fenner>
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Re: Pic - could a worm be harming my fish?
1/7/10
Hi Bob,
Thanks for your quick reply! I've been looking through the
pics and some posts in the worm FAQs to find the type of worm
I've seen in my tank to see if they're harmful or not but
I can't seem to find a match. Any idea what
type of worm it could be - that suctions itself to the surface
and moves flat along the ground/rocks?
<Need pix Kitty... even then, there's a bunch of worm
species...>
And possibly harm fish... I would take a photo of it, but I
haven't seen it for a few days.
<Try baiting it out toward lights out/evening>
Also, do you think it would be a good idea to somehow get rid of
the worm?
<Mmm, likely so... this one's a bit too large for
me>
I wouldn't want it to do the same thing to my other fish - if
it is the worm that caused the injury to my Firefish in the first
place.
Thanks again,
KC
<Welcome. BobF>
Re: could a worm be harming my fish? 1/7/10
Hey there,
Thanks for your reply Bob, it seems we have two separate emails
going on (this one, and another one where I sent you the photo)
so I'll just reply to this one from now. Well, my Firefish
just died =( I've been trying to figure out whether the worm
could have really caused this. At first, I thought it could quite
possibly have been the worm because the size of the
'bulge' and the shape matched the worm. Tonight, though,
when my fish wasn't looking too good, I noticed it kept
twitching it's tail violently every 10 seconds or so, as if
it was trying to get rid of something, but I didn't see it
scraping itself against rocks or anything, and it was breathing
rapidly.
Right after my fish died, I looked at it again since it'd
been trying to hide at the back, near rocks for most of the night
where it's kind of dark, and realized that the bulge that was
initially just white with an indent was gone, there was no bump
but instead there were red scratches on its skin. Now I'm
wondering, could it have been internal?
<Possibly>
Or could the fish have been scraping at the wound?
<Also could be...>
Or maybe something eating away at it on the skin? I'm
probably way off...
<We can only guess here>
I just looked briefly at the link you sent me about the bristle
worms.
(I'll read it more thoroughly tomorrow since it's really
late where I am... I was actually about to go to sleep when I
noticed my fish not looking so good =( ) I didn't notice any
bristles on the worm, and I never saw any bristles on the body of
the fish either. Do all bristle worms have visible bristles on
their body?
<Mmm, no... some have very little podia, bristles>
Sorry for all these questions but I'm pretty new to this
hobby and am trying to learn as much as I can, and I don't
want something like this to happen again to my other fish.
<Understood>
Anyways, I've attached a photo of the red wound on the fish
along with this email. The photo was taken about five minutes
after the fish died. The purple color around its head came on
after its death, but you can see the
red area I was talking about.. I also attached the original
picture that I took and sent you earlier today when I could still
see the white bulge.
Thanks again for your help
KC
<Welcome dear. BobF>
Re: could a worm be harming my fish?
1/7/10
Hey there again,
<Hello Kitty>
Just as I said I hadn't seen the worm for a few days,
it came out of hiding! Well... sort of... you can only see
a tiny part of it, most of it is still in hiding. I'm
not sure if you can tell what kind of worm species this is
since the photo is rather blurry, but here it is
anyways.
I'm going to try and trap the worm tonight, and see
what happens :)
KC
<Mmm, can't make much of anything here.
BobF>
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Firefish 12/18/09
Hi my Firefish is floating upside down and just letting the filter push
him around. What should I do?
<Unfortunately it sounds likely it is too late. What are your
system's specs? Scott V.>
Quarantine woes 8/15/09
I have had 3 bad experiences with my quarantine tank. (was a 29
gallon.
Hang on back filter with a Koralia power head.) I have lost 3 fish in
it.
2 recent were a pair of purple Firefish.
<I am not a "fan" of quarantining Microdesmids... this is
one group/family (along with others) that are better summarily
dipped/bathed (and sometimes not even this) and directly placed in
their display tank/s... Much more to
be lost in delaying their placement (starving, jumping out, plain
stress...)>
I had decided to let them go after returning from a weekend trip as
long as all was well. (QT duration was about 18 - 20 days) their fins
had frayed a bit from stress as I don't think they liked their
close quarters but all else was well. I came home to see one of them
had developed flukes/flatworms while I was gone. I consulted many
sources as well as my LFS and went with his guidance and what he
recommended which was a freshwater dip and then if that wasn't
effective try a treatment with Sea Chem Para Guard or copper. I had a
VERY bad experience with my first freshwater dip as the sick fish began
to go upside and twirl erratically immediately after being placed in
freshwater w/ Methylene blue. I removed him and placed him back in
fresh and treated the other. Needless to say the twirly fish, as we
will call him, did not make it another 24 hrs. The other developed an
outward sore about the size of a pencil eraser. I tried to treat this
with a low dose of Paraguard and 2 days later he too died. The wound
had closed, or so it seemed. It had a white patch over it and seemed to
have closed up. First question on this matter does it sound like
anything went bad on my end?
<Doesn't seem like so>
The tank had a few pieces of live rock in it and had been cycling for
over a month (LR previously cycled, tank had already had 1 successful
QT'd fish come out of it). No noticeable nitrite or nitrate while
the fish were in the QT. I am at a loss and hate to see my pets die at
an early fate feeling as I have failed in my husbandry.
<Mmm, not entirely w/in your control... Might be the given livestock
was "too weak" when you acquired them>
My second question is this: Will allowing my LFS to watch over fish I
order through him for 2 - 3 weeks and take care of any issues that
arise work out just as well as I went through QT process with them at
home?
<Maybe... Some outfits are astute, disciplined...>
I understand this would require a bit of trust between the LFS owner
and I, but after the experiences I have had and my bad luck I would
feel better letting someone more accustom to handling the situations to
take care of the QT end...
Adam
<Bob Fenner>
Firefish Parasite? 1/15/09 I first want to start by
complementing you on your web site.? <Maybe complimenting> I have
had much success finding answers to my continuous list of questions.? I
have searched the site but have not found an answer to my most recent
question. I recently purchased a Firefish <Are social animals... one
won't be happy> from my local supplier about 2 weeks ago.? He
has adjusted well to his new surroundings.? He eats well and he does
not seem to be under any stress (breathing good, swimming good etc.)
Last night, when feeding the tank I noticed that he has two white curly
things coming out from behind his pectoral fin?? These do not seem to
be bothering him.? At first glance it almost looks like wing of a fly
(I know sounds strange) From the research that? have done, I am
thinking that they could be a parasite or part of his intestine.? What
do you think? <Could be parasitic... perhaps a copepod of some
sort... Please see WWM re, send well-resolved images> Thanks for our
insight Tamara <Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Question about Firefish quarantine, 10/22/08 Hello
WWMedia crew, <Hi> I read over the info about Firefish on your
web-site and I know that you as a whole routinely recommend to
quarantine fish in general. <Yes> However, a couple of times it
was mentioned that a quarantine period may be detrimental to Firefish.
I realize that it would be a risk to put any fish directly into the
main tank; but in the case of Firefish, would it better for them to be
placed directly into the DT? <They can at times be difficult to feed
and very shy in an overly sterile QT with good hiding places. Sometimes
putting them directly into the DT where there are lots of bolt holes
and microfauna to feed on helps, sometimes it introduces disease.
Pluses and minuses to both approaches.> Yesterday I purchased a
paired couple of red Firefish. They were placed in a bare-bottom QT
with PVC pipes, air stone/pump, an external filter and a good cover on
the tank and I just use ambient light. <Good, lots of PVC here helps
a bunch.> I routinely do 10% daily water changes and monitor
parameters. They will be fed a combination of frozen Cyclops-Eeze,
frozen Mysis soaked in Selcon and Formula One Flakes. <Good.> My
questions are: Do I keep going with the quarantine tank or move them to
the DT? <If you can get them to eat and they are not cowering in the
corner of the tank I would go with the QT.> For the Firefish, is a 2
week quarantine too short or should I do a minimum of 4 weeks? (I
routinely do a 6 week quarantine). I realize there is no right or wrong
answer but I want to maximize the chances of survival for this couple.
<Generally if they adapt well to the QT initially you will have few
problems going farther. The quietness of a QT can be very beneficial to
this passive fish, gives them a chance to beef up a bit before going
into the DT.> A separate subject/question. I know that some people
recommend adding garlic as an appetite stimulant. Do I just crush a
small amount of a fresh garlic clove and soak the food with it?
<Can, although probably easier to buy a prepared liquid mixture
available on-line and in most fish shops.> Thank you in advance,
Miguel Perales <Welcome> <Chris>
Purple Firefish parasite? 6/24/08 Hello
and thank you for taking the time to view my question.
<Welcome> I had recently(~3 weeks ago) purchased a pair of
Firefish from the same LFS. Both fish are eating fine and have
acclimated well to my 72 gallon system. After about 1.5 weeks,
I've started to notice a couple of small brownish-white bumps
on the lower-interior lip of my purple Firefish. Since then, two
protruding spike-like growths have stemmed from the bottom lip and
seems to have somewhat made the bottom lip a bit swollen. Although
I'm not sure, it does seem that the two protrusions each have a
fuzzy tip. <Mmmm> I've tried to take multiple pictures
with no success and wondered if this possible infection/parasite
may affect my other tankmates? <No, not likely> I've done
much research in attempting to find pictures of a similar parasite
and/or disease but haven't had any success. <I don't
think this is a parasite> During the four year period of me
owning the system, I've never had any fish suffer from any
diseases of any kind including Ick so I'm a bit concerned.
I've attached a photo that was the best I could take.
Unfortunately, my Virgate Rabbitfish is very camera friendly and I
can't fixate my camera for more than a couple of seconds before
he jumps in front of my focal point. I'd appreciate any insight
you may provide in identifying this parasite/disease and thank you
for your help. Here's info on my setup: 72 gallon bowfront with
~130-140lbs of live rock 30 gallon sump 90 gallon Euro-reef skimmer
~15-20% bi-monthly water changes (1) Virgate Rabbitfish (1) Orange
Firefish (1) Purple Firefish (1) Blue-green Chromis (1) Red Social
fairy wrasse (1) Banana wrasse (1) False Percula Clownfish (1)
Bi-color blenny (1) African Midas blenny (1) Orange-spotted goby
(3) Dispar Anthias (one male w/ two females) (1) Fire shrimp (1)
Peppermint shrimp (2) Yellow cleaner shrimp (2) Emerald crabs (1)
pom-pom crab (~15-20) assorted hermits (~10) assorted snails (1)
Sand-sifting starfish (1) Lettuce Nudibranch (1) 5-inch Crocea clam
Chemicals used: Chemi-pure (added to hang-on four-filter filtration
system for added mechanical removal of free-floating solids) AZ-NO3
Zero (small daily doses to keep nitrates in check) Daily capful
dose of Bi-Ionic Calcium/Alkalinity solutions <The one fish
looks like he has run into something... perhaps bit into a
fire/Bristleworm... hopefully it will recover. I would do nothing
(not move the one fish, add medicant) here. Bob Fenner> |
|
Firefish trouble... Reading 4/1/08 Hi
there and let me first say thank you for a great site. My Firefish
while under a .3 percent dose of Cupramine has developed either a
growth or injury to its mouth. <Mmm, not uncommon with
Microdesmids... from jumping, running into things in captivity... the
copper might be a factor here as well> The fish can no longer close
its mouth and it looks as if it hurts it eat. The growth or injury
seems to cover the entire bottom lip and even appears to be getting
larger. The growth or injury is brown in color and at first glance I
thought it was some kind of food lodged in the fishes mouth. Just today
I noticed that the tail fin seems to be frayed. <Bad...> I can
not tell if this is a injury also or if it is a symptom of the growth
in the fishes mouth. Any advice you can provide would be much
appreciated. Regards, Lee <... this fish is very likely a goner...
Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/dartfish.htm and the
linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Fish Parasite
<copepod> 12/14/06 Hi, <Hello there>
Attached is a picture of my Firefish with an attached parasite
behind the right fin. <I see it> I was not smart enough or
patient enough to follow the quarantine advice from your Marine
Aquarist book. I really enjoyed the book by the way. I
find myself rereading it often. I would appreciate any information
about this parasite you could give me. Thank you, Paul Hug
<Appears to be a Copepod... the trailing "egg sacs"
are indicative to definitive. Please read here re: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/crustdisfaqs1.htm I would
(gingerly) remove this from the fish using a tweezers... pulling
away, toward the tail... with the fish netted, underwater... Bob
Fenner> |
Re: Fish Parasite 12/14/06 Thank
you for the response. I am hoping you can give me some
advise on what to do next. <Okay> I removed the Firefish,
Nemateleotris magnifica, from my main tank. I then removed the
parasite using tweezers. The parasite stretched during
removal making me think it was a worm. The
'"Thing" on Firefish' letter sounds exactly like
mine. The curlicue description fits. <Mmm, I do wish
I would have remembered to include a note re grasping the
"worm" (like previously stated this is actually a
crustacean)... near, by the head... pulling firmly, though slowly
from there... to prevent breaking the Copepod...> I quickly set
up a new 10 gallon tank as a quarantine/hospital tank and moved the
Firefish and my only other fish, a diamond goby, Valenciennea
puellaris, to this new tank. <Mmm, okay... though likely
unnecessary... The parasite likely has a "complex" life
cycle... requiring the presence of at least another intermediary
organism (which is highly likely not present)> My two week old
105 gallon main tank now contains base rock, live rock, sand from
another running aquarium, 29 miscellaneous snails, 15 hermits, 2
Cleaner Shrimp (Lysmata amboinensis), and 6 mushroom corals
(Discosoma sp.). This tank with some live rock and sand from an
active system shows now ammonia or nitrite. Nitrates are
currently 20 ppm (This is a decrease from 1st week at 30 ppm).
<Good> This afternoon the Firefish died. I am
pretty sure I stressed it during removal and by the delay in
getting it into the new quarantine tank. <Very likely... sorry
for your loss> Should I medicate the diamond goby (no symptoms)?
<I would not... not worth the further stress, small likelihood
that this is something "treat-able"> I
assume that leaving the goby in the quarantine tank and leaving the
main tank fishless is a good idea. <Mmm... not really
necessary> If so, how long would you recommend and should I do
anything else to reduce/eliminate the possibility of transmission?
<Use of practical cleaner organism/s here...>
Also my quarantine tank was purchase/setup in a hurry
so I ended up with a cheap incandescent hood. Is this a problem,
other than heat, for the diamond goby? Thank you, Paul Hug <Not
a problem. Paul... please do read re Dart Gobies, Microdesmids...
most of the species used in our interest really need to be in
pairs... Bob Fenner> |
|
Stress Guard... Microdesmid trouble? Nature of disease/health,
tilting balances... 10/3/06 Forgive me if this
answer is already posted on the board but I really did try. I have a
recent addition (Scissortail Goby) that seems to be suffering from some
type of external parasite, I don't think its Ich because the small
white spots are in different quadrants of the fish and not like salt
has been shaken on it. But then again what do I know I've never had
Ich before. <Mmm, there are a few "things" that look like
this> Anyway, I am going to remove him from the tank (if I can) and
QT him/her. I was thinking of putting Stress Guard in the tank to build
up the slime coat of my other inhabitants hoping to avoid any further
parasite hosts. <I would leave this fish where it is... if indeed
there is a pathogen involved, it has already infested the system> So
here is the question, would you know if Stress Guard is reef safe?
<I don't, wouldn't use it... There are a few
"things" I'd like to relate... first, the overall
"picture" of disease/health: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mardisease.htm The fact that this
species is social, shy, needs lots of room, a paucity of aggressive
tankmate beh.: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/dartfish.htm and maybe lastly for
now, the value/utility of purposeful cleaners: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clnrfaqs.htm> Thanks, Tom
<And the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Sick Firefish? - 5/8/2006 Hi Crew, <Thomas> I
know this might be hard to answer, but hopefully you can help. <Will
try> I have a Purple Firefish that's been alone in a 15 gallon
quarantine tank for 3 weeks and 2 days. <Mmm, hard on Microdesmids,
this species in isolation... social animals...> The quarantine tank
was held at 1.017 specific gravity until a couple days ago, when I
starting daily water changes (2 gallons, then 3 gallons) replacing the
quarantine water with system tank water with specific gravity 1.025. As
of today, specific gravity is just under 1.022. The Firefish has been
behaving and eating well. My old eyes are not that sharp
anymore, but until today, I had not noticed any visual signs of disease
either. Today, however, I noticed maybe 4-6 small patches on each side
of the fish that looked unusual. I examined these with a
magnifying glass. Some appeared to have no well defined
form, to be slightly raised above the skin, and almost
transparent. I also noticed three or four other milky to
translucent things attached to the skin that seemed to have form.
<Ahh!> These appeared elongated in shape, I'd guess well less
than 1 mm in length, and sometimes looked attached at one end only, so
the other end would occasionally lift up (perhaps from the current - or
maybe these things move). It would be easy to imagine that
these were some kind of "worm" attached to the
fish. Could the other formless patches be lesions from
previous attacks by these "worms"? <Yes... but likely
"flukes" themselves> So I have three
questions: Can you guess what this is? Do you
think I would have a decent chance of curing this problem simply by
lowering specific gravity to 1.01-1.012? If not, how would
you recommend I treat this fish? <I would not reduce the spg, but
try the use of a purposeful cleaner here... either a Gobiosoma goby or
a Lysmata shrimp... small specimen> P.S. I decided to begin lowering
specific gravity -- initially from 1.022 to 1.018, and four hours later
to 1.015, where I'll leave it until tomorrow. Too fast,
probably, but since the fish still looks strong, maybe it will hurt the
disease more than the fish. <Hard to state, but the fact that this
apparent pathogen has persisted through the previous density
manipulation is telling... Bob Fenner> Thanks, Tom
Re: Sick Firefish? - 5/11/06 Thanks, Bob.
<Welcome> Here's a follow-up, and some additional questions.
The next morning, before getting your email, I went ahead with one more
20 percent water change, dropping the specific gravity to a little
under 1.012. As of now (48+ hours later), I can no longer see parasites
on the fish's skin, fish's color looks better, fish continues
to eat well -- in short, this appears to have worked. Recall
that I had held specific gravity at 1.017 for three weeks, and then
increased it to 1.022, after which I noticed these
parasites. I wonder what mechanism is at work here. <Me
too> Were these parasites "dormant" in the quarantine tank
until the specific gravity was increased? <Perhaps> Were they in
the system water I used to raise the specific gravity? <Maybe>
That system water came from a tank that now contains just one fish -- a
Yellow Clown Goby -- that's been in there for 6 months and seems
healthy. I did have a Firefish in there for four months, but
he disappeared after a few weeks of seeing him less and
less. I did not notice any sign of parasites on him before
he disappeared, though. He's been gone over two months
now. If these parasites just remain dormant, or somehow persist in my
system tank, I will have this problem again when I raise the specific
gravity, or begin acclimation to system water. If this worry
is well founded, perhaps I should get a cleaner Goby as you
suggested. What is your opinion now? <The same... to try
the cleaner> Also, I had understood from your book that one should
have 20 gallons per fish to keep more than one Firefish. <Yes, a
good general "rule of thumb" with this family> Since I
have only a 30 gallon system here, I have not been considering more
than one Firefish. Do you think that's right?
<Yes> Finally, how long do you think I should keep specific
gravity at 1.012 in the hope of wiping out the parasite population?
<Am not a fan of hyposalinity (alone) as a treatment of parasitic
disease. This condition persisted through your last effort at such...
Bob Fenner> Thanks, Tom Goby Quarantine Period 10/11/05 Hi
Crew (especially Bob F. if available), <Howdy> Bob Fenner
suggests a short quarantine for Gobies (maybe a few days), since longer
quarantine periods represent a "bad trade-off." I assume he
means that after a few days, the additional insurance against disease
transmission is outweighed by ill-effects of additional quarantine time
for fish like Gobies. <Good interpretation> My question: If my
Goby (actually Firefish) has been in quarantine for 5 days, is
looking/acting/eating well, and shows no outward evidence of disease,
is that a reason to get him into the main tank soon (since he is likely
disease free) or is that a reason to leave him in quarantine (since he
does not appear to be suffering from being there)? <Not a problem
here> Of course, I have to assume that one should also consider what
is at risk in the main display tank. <Yes> In my case, there are
no fish yet, but there are hermit crabs, a Fireshrimp, mushroom coral,
and live rock. So, if I introduce a sick Firefish, I would lose no
other fish, but I assume I would have to leave the display tank fallow
for at least a month. Thanks, Tom <Could. Bob Fenner>
Re: Goby Quarantine Period 10/12/05 Hi Bob, <Hello
again> Thanks for the prompt reply. However, I need clarification on
this point: My question: If my Goby (actually Firefish) has been
in quarantine for 5 days, is looking/acting/eating well, and shows no
outward evidence of disease, is that a reason to get him into the main
tank soon (since he is likely disease free) or is that a reason to
leave him in quarantine (since he does not appear to be suffering from
being there)? <Not a problem here> By "Not a problem
here" do you mean that if the Firefish (or any other Goby) is
apparently doing well in quarantine, quarantine should continue for a
full 4 weeks? <<Yes, sorry for the lack of clarity>> And
conversely, your short quarantine recommendation applies when the Goby
is not doing well in quarantine? <<Yes>> Thanks again, Tom
<<Bob Fenner>>
Purple Firefish passed away, was there anything I
could/shouldn't have done? 9/8/05 First of all, thanks
for such a great website with tons of info. We are new to
the scene and your website has helped us a lot in countless
ways. At this moment, I really need help in evaluating the
following scenario and please advise me of any wrong doings before we
mishandle another precious beautiful life. I'll try to
keep it short, so please bear with me. <Okay> My husband and I
bought a purple Firefish 2 1/2 weeks ago from a LFS. I
recalled later that the owner of the LFS didn't put stress coat
into the bag. When we got home approx. 1 -1 1/2 hrs. later,
we immediately turn the lights off & put the little bag in the
aquarium to adjust the temperature. At that time we noticed
that the fish was slightly tilted to its side in the bag. We
let it float for 15 min.s, then pour the entire content into a plastic
container. The fish seemed better in the container, it was
not leaning to its side and swims a little bit. We then used
turkey baster to take some water out, then put some aquarium water
in. However, whenever we put aquarium water into the
container, the fish would tilt slightly, but if I put some of its bag
water back, it would straighten up again. It seemed better
after we put some stress coat in, but the same scenario repeats
whenever we attempt to put aquarium water in. Puzzled, I
check the salinity of the bag water, it was close to 1.027, and ours
was at 1.023. <... too much difference> Thinking
after the super slow acclimation, the fish would adjust the new water
parameter, <Mmm, no... a couple of thousandths per day... 24 hours
is about right> we patiently took about 5 - 6 hours to gradually
acclimate him. Then, since he looked somewhat OK, we
carefully put him into the aquarium (16 gallons), <Too small...>
but he lays on the sand, wouldn't move and was breathing
rapidly. So after 2 hours, we carefully put him back into
the plastic container. The next day, we went to the LFS with
bottles thinking that perhaps their water was more suitable then ours
for the fish. The guy at the LFS gave us a gallon of
Catalina Island water (that's what they use, they claimed it has
gone through UV sterilization), <Good quality synthetic is
superior> and advised us to check the PH of our water. We
rushed home and checked the PH of our tank, it was at 8.0 - 8.1, and
the water he gave us was at 8.3. We then proceeded with a
small water change, put 1/2 gallon of Catalina Island water in, then
used Seachem Reef Buffer to increase the PH over several hours to
8.2. At the mean time, we pour the other 1/2 gallon of water
into the container with the fish (nick named YY at this point, since YY
means not straight or tilted in Chinese), then proceeded to acclimated
him again. At this point, YY would not eat, and spent most of time lay
on the bottom of the container breathing heavily. The guy at
the LFS told us that YY would have a better chance of survival in the
aquarium then in the plastic container, <Yes> so after a couple
of hours later, we put him into the tank again. This time,
he swam a little, and ventured into the cleaner shrimps
"clinic". Both of our skunk shrimps were
immediately all over him, particularly over him head. They
were picking at his gills so hard he turned sideways. One of
the shrimp was particularly interested in him, but after a while, YY
started running away from the shrimp. After a few hours, we
noticed that he was not only still breathing hard, laying on the sand,
he was also scratching constantly against the substrate.
<Perhaps was infested...> It is probably necessary to add that on
the same day we bought YY, we also bought a pair of false Clowns from
Petco that's only 5 min.s away from home. <To go in the same
too-small 16 gallons? Both/all w/o quarantine?> They
were acclimated in similar manner and were transferred into the tank in
about an hour. They are now still healthy and
adorable. Since we were afraid that YY might have parasites
and that could potentially pass to the clowns, we took him out again,
<... would be too late by then> dipped him in fresh water
w/Methylene blue, then put him in a larger glass container with 1 1/2
of water and Kordon's Rid Ich in mild dosage, <Too toxic, much
added stress...> also aerated the water with an air stone as
suggested by the LFS guy. Unfortunately, YY left us early
next morning. <Am not surprised> Did we do something wrong? <A
few things...> Was the travel too long / stressful for YY? Would he
be less stressed with the aid of stress coat from the moment he was put
in the bag at LFS? <Doubtful> Or was YY sick / too stressed to
begin with? <Maybe> Was it due to our water parameter being so
different? <A very important contributing cause, yes> We should
have checked all water parameters beforehand, but since the clowns
seemed OK, and there were so little water in the bag, barely enough for
salinity check, we didn't even thought about it. The
clowns were purchased from the same Petco where we bought all the
set-up, tank, live rock, & salt water (they use Instant Ocean)
prior to mixing our own (with Reef Crystal), so it possible that our
tank condition is closer to theirs. Should we have matched
our water parameters close to YY's and all of our future purchases?
<Yes... close as you can... through quarantine...> Is purchasing
from different LFS a bad idea? Or just not on the same day?
<Mixing new purchases is generally a poor idea, not quarantining
most is a terrible one... Not checking the requirements of livestock
ahead of time... disastrous. Your tank is too small for what you have
placed...> Sorry for all the questions and long description of the
scenario, we really loved YY and will mostly like purchased another
purple Firefish again, so I really hope to eliminate all the
possibilities of our wrong doing to ensure our fishes will have a happy
life in our aquarium. Thank you for your help. Lorie
<I've recently "split up" the Microdesmid FAQs...
Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/drtfshsysfaqs.htm and elsewhere...
books, the Net re Firefish Systems... On WWM re quarantine protocols...
Bob Fenner>
Re: Purple Firefish passed away, was there anything I
could/shouldn't have done? 9/8/05 9/9/05 Thank you for
your prompt response. I'm really sorry for not
indicating that our 16 gallon bow-front tank (although was not intended
to be a QT) is and will always be the QT (after learning from your site
of its importance, I WOULDN'T EVEN DARE write to you if we
didn't have one). It has been up & running since
June 12th with the following: 1. 15lb of Fiji live rock
(were fully cured & brought home completely submerged in saltwater
from Petco 5 min.s away from home), 2. 20lb of
CaribSea Arag-Alive Bahamas Oolite Sand, 3. Marineland
Stealth 200 Visi-Therm Submersible Aquarium Heater,
4. Fluval 304 (with Two Little Fishes HydroCarbon &
PhosBan, Fluval foams & BioMax) 5. Standard florescent
light fixture from All-Glass We also have a 46 gallon bowfront tank
(equipped with same heater, filter, but longer standard light fixture)
that has been used to cure 50lb of Marshall Island rocks since August 6
(they are already cured at this moment). We are in the
process of getting 60lb of CaribSea Arag-Alive Bahamas Oolite Sand for
this tank, 6. AquaC Remora Protein Skimmer, shared between
the tanks, <One at a time> and 7. Reef Crystal with
additions of Seachem Prime & Reef Buffer (after reading your site,
we will be switching to Tropic Marin Pro Reef), 8. DI water
for mixing salt. We use Aqua. Pharm. Tap Water Purifier, and
were shocked to get only 25 gallons out of each column (sometimes less,
that's how bad Los Angeles water is). Without a
trustworthy source of RO/DI water within 30 min.s of drive, this is
what we settled with for now. I was told these are all we need at this
moment. We are still learning & researching and will add
other equipment, refugium, sump, VHO lights, RO unit, etc., if
necessary. <You are "way ahead of the
curve"> The residents in the quarantine tank are as follows:
1. 2 skunk cleaner shrimps that molts every 1 1/2 - 2 weeks
(purchased on June 26th, 2 weeks after the set-up), 2. 2
feather dusters (sorry, they were purchased with the shrimps, before we
found your site), 3. A pair of false clowns (purchased on
Aug. 20th with the purple Firefish from different source).
Fully aware of the limitation of our tank size, we have been very
restrained from purchasing any more livestock. We were not
going to purchase any fish until the 46 gallon is totally complete and
filled with live sand, despite the fact that my husband's family
thought we were out of our minds for having nothing but pieces of rocks
in the tank with only 2 shrimps (no fish?!).
<"Things take time..." An important lesson> However,
one of our shrimp has given birth to hundreds of babies the day before
we purchased the Firefish & clowns. We were extremely
excited, but after reading your site & breeder's registry, also
confirming with the LFS that it is close to impossible to raise the
babies, my husband thought it would be a good idea to add fishes to
consume them before they die off & possibly foul the water
completely. Thus leads to the purchases of the Firefish
& clowns. <I see> We were not aware of the purple Firefish
needing a bigger tank. On Liveaquaria.com, it is classified
as Nano fish with minimum of 10 gallon tank size compared to false
clowns that need minimum of 30 gallon tank. <Opinions vary> We
have also seen the Firefish been placed in 12 gallon nano tank in LFS
with corals. Is 46 gallon still too small for one purple Firefish &
2 clowns? <Mmm, likely okay> We are planning to have maybe 5-6
small fishes (no more then 3" in adult size) in the 46 gallon and
are well aware of the limited selection of fishes we can
keep. <This does appear so> Can you recommend any
reputable LFS in the Los Angeles area for marine livestock? <There
are a few... but would rather refer you to MASLAC... the L.A. marine
club... and have you "chat" with them re. Can be found on the
Net> The quality of livestock in Petco we frequent varies a lot.
<Uh, yes... Have followed this co. quite a bit... was one of the
early "architects" of their livestock program... The
mass-merchandisers have yet to "get right" the pet-fish
end> Last time we were there, they had an outbreak of Ich in almost
all the tanks that are linked to the same filtration system. Most of
the fishes were so infested they looked scary. Most of LFS also has
linked systems and we wouldn't buy any livestock from the place if
we see any casualty in any of the linked tanks. We feel that
the least they can do is to take the bodies out before it rots and
become infested with bacteria. <Yes> Also, for the
feather dusters, is Liquid life BioPlankton a better choice then DT
since it claims to be highly concentrated? <IMO yes> Is
Cyclop-eeze whole freeze dried (powder) too big for them, or can it be
blended down to appropriate size? <Can be mixed... a good idea>
Last but not the least, what are the medications will you suggest to
keep at hand for emergencies? <Mmm, actually... none if there are
stores nearby... too much tendency for folks to "medicate"
out of fear, reaction... more harmful than usually is worthwhile>
We currently have Methylene Blue & Rid
Ich. I now know Rid Ich (Malachite green & Formalin) is
probably too toxic for most marine fishes (it worked well with our Koi
though), so I have ordered SeaChem Cupramine (it seemed milder then
CopperSafe) <Chelated and not...> with their copper test kit for
parasites, and intend to order Furan-2 (contains Nitrofurazone,
Furazolidone, and Methylene Blue Trihydrate) for bacterial
infections. Are there anything else you'll
recommend? I know it is best not to dose medication unless
absolutely necessary, but I just want to be prepared. It is
often difficult to find what's needed in an urgency locally.
<Much, too much to discuss here re...> Sorry for the long
post. Again, I really appreciate you and your crew's
assistance in providing and sharing your precious
experiences in the field, so newbies like us has someone to turn to
other then blindly trusting the LFS that are more interesting in making
$$ then anything else. BTW, I finally found a copy of your
book last night, great book. Lorie <Ahh, a pleasure to have
intelligent, caring people in our interest. Again, thank you for
sharing. Bob Fenner>
Dead fish/replacing male clown
6/31/05 Hello Crew, <Linda> I have tried to find my situation
in the FAQs but didn't find it. I have two questions: 1)
Can/should I get another male clown for my female clown? <If
you'd like. Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clnfshbrdfaqs.htm> 2) What
happened to the male clown and two Firefish? <Mmm...> Here is the
story: I had a pair of tank bred percula clowns that
I've had since I started my tank 8 months ago. They were
already paired in the store and got along great. The male
was adventurous and has been found in the overflow and sump several
times before I covered it. He was always fine. <Ah,
yes... the classic "Nemo" syndrome> One day I
didn't see him until yellow-headed goby was trying to taste his
dead body (I was quite surprised and saddened). His body was
torn up a bit, but I'm not sure if that was after he was dead or
not. On a side note I had 2 fire fish die a few weeks
earlier - one had his tail chewed on...then his dorsal fin was
gone...then he was floating dead (over a period of 2-3
weeks). Then the other one just disappeared about a week
later (no body found). I haven't seen any predator at
night and no signs of disease/other problems. <The Microdesmids do
"just" die mysteriously... but you may have a hitchhiking
crustacean... Pistol or Mantis shrimp...> Here is the set-up: 75 gal
reef with 90-100 lbs LR 35 gal sump/refugium with LS and 40 lbs LR 1
Kole tang 1 yellow-headed sleeper goby 1 mandarin 2 clowns (male is now
dead) 2 Firefish (both now dead) 4 red hermits 2 emerald crabs (removed
after clown death) 3 cleaner shrimp 1 serpent star 1 black brittle star
1 crocea clam 1 bubble coral 1 hammer head Zoanthids mushroom corals
Thanks in advance! Linda <Or could be from a toxicity... from the
Zoanthids... or... I would place a baited trap... at night. Bob
Fenner>
Firefish With Flushed Cheeks - 08/11/2005 Hi, New to
the questions here:) We have a 40 gallon tank that has two Indo
Firefish and today we noticed a red spot on one of them. It's
located by the gills on the right side. Our other Firefish doesn't
have one. What could this be? <Very, very many possibilities, and
too little information.... could be a wound, perhaps from a
parasite; could be an indication of bacterial infection; could be
irritation from something in the water.... Could be
"nothing much at all". Watch carefully, quarantine
if necessary.> Thanks!! <Start here for more:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mardisindex.htm
. Wishing you well, -Sabrina>
Sick
Purple Firefish 9/4/05 Hi Folks, <Marshall> I have
perused many pages on Firefish and many on illness and still no luck in
getting an answer on my question so I turn to your expert
advice. I maintain a 5 month old 180 gallon FOWL system for
my uncle that has 240 lbs of very mature live rock. We have
a 55 gallon sump with a protein skimmer, more live rock, live mud and
live sand. My only point of concern for the setup is the
lighting. I have a Corallife Aqualight with only 384 watts
of lighting mixed between 10K lights and Actinics. <Mmm, I'd
switch the latter out for more "white"> As of
my last test everything was at acceptable levels for a FOWL
system. I do a 10% water change each month but as of this
month I'm switching to a 20% change. <Better to do two tens at
half month intervals...> For supplements I regularly
dose Coralvital, Coralvital Live Sand Booster, Iron, Zooplex, Two
Little Fishies C Balance and Iodine. <I'd skip the voodoo
"vital" products... they're not (vital)> We have a
large cleaner crew but as for fish we have (many), 1) Queen Angel
(Juvenile) 2) Emperor Angel (Juvenile) 3) 2 Yellow Tangs 4) 1 Purple
Tang 5) Tassel Fish 6) Orange Shoulder Tang (Juvenile) 7) 2 Blackcap
Jawfish 8) Purple Firefish (the guy in question) 9) 5 Cleaner Shrimp
10) 2 Bicolor Blenny 11) Coral Beauty 12) Sixline Wrasse 13) Ruby Head
Fairy Wrasse 14) and the big daddy a Zebra Moray I know this seems like
a lot of fish but so far everyone is getting along just fine (even the
blennies). The only issues I have had was a case of Popeye
on one of the Yellow Tangs (which I treated with NoSickFish.com's
Popeye treatment) <I do wonder what is in these products> and a
case of Lymphocystis on the other Yellow Tang and the Queen Angel which
went away on their own. I noticed tonight that my Firefish has what
appears to be several blisters forming along his sides. I
don't recall seeing them before today but now he has about 5 of
them mainly on his right side and 1 or 2 on his left
side. He isn't lethargic and eats just
fine. I'm not sure what these are and as a result I
don't know what to do. I hoping that you can help me
because I really don't want to lose him. Thanks, Marshall <I
wish I could... the Microdesmid may have a subcutaneous
"worm" or protozoan pathogenic disease... but, w/o removing
it (I would not add medicines to the main system...) and trying a few
(e.g. Praziquantel, Metronidazole) targeted therapeutics... and the
added stress... I would leave it as it is, and "hope for the
best", a spontaneous recovery. Bob Fenner>
Question on a Firefish Hi, My name is Tara. I was surfing the
internet looking for answers to a sudden death of my Firefish. I came
across your site and was excited with all the information I found on
other topics, but unfortunately, not on my problem. Maybe you could
help me----- <I will try> I recently purchased a Firefish (I
asked for two, but was only sent one). He seemed to be doing well, then
just died all of a sudden today. <Among other sources of
"stress"... you know (or seem to) that these are not
"solitary" animals... shame on the folks who only sent you
one... they should be held in "solitary confinement" for a
while...> I have a 90 gallon reef with a sea clone skimmer, a hot
magnum 350 BioWheel, two actinic lights (one white, one blue) and two
daylight lights. In the tank is about 50 lbs of live rock with various
hard corals, starburst polyps, 2 cleaner shrimp, a false percula, a
diamond watchman goby, a bi-color blenny, a Sebae, 2 Condys, 3
tiger-tailed cucumbers, 2 brittle stars, and tons of Turbos and
blue-legs. The water quality, at least from what I can tell, is great.
No ammonia or nitrites, about 15 ppm nitrate, ph is 8.2 and the
salinity is .023. Everything else in the tank is doing perfect. What
could have happened? I know that the Firefish like to be in groups, but
would that have actually killed him? Any thoughts on it would be
greatly appreciated. Thank you. <I do consider that the cumulative
hardships of collection, shipping, being alone did conspire to result
in the loss of this individual. Do try again, more than one, with a
different dealer. Bob Fenner>
Firefish Down! 3/19/03 Hi Phil,<Hey
Richard!! What's up?> Bad news, just had a casualty
overnight.<Oh no, I'm truly sorry! The loss of a fish
is never easy!> I've got a 30 gallon which cycled
properly.<Good> My first inhabitants were a pair of Firefish. Day
one they were out feeding together in the water column day two I
introduced a orange spot goby. During the second day one of the
Firefish started to stay out of sight it would come out occasionally
but wasn't feeding. It would stay under a rock shelf, its dorsal
fin was laying down and wouldn't come up. Day three in the morning
I found it dead on the bottom of the tank so I took it out, it had a
bite out of the neck probably after it died the orange spot took a
taste. Any ideas as to what happened, I thought these were hardy fish.
I couldn't see any lesions on the body. Should I do anything with
the other fish?<You shouldn't really keep two Firefish together
in a small tank. You can keep a pair in a tank say 100g or
bigger. The one will be fine alone.> Thanks <No
problem, again sorry about the loss.> Rick <Phil>
Come on Baby Light My Firefish) I recently bought a Firefish
goby for my 12 gallon nano-reef. He's the only fish in there
besides a scarlet hermit and a peppermint shrimp. After acclimation the
fish was doing fine, hanging outside all the time, feeds well and was
so for about 2 days. One time the light was off and he was swimming
about as I happened to walk by the tank, I guess he felt threatened and
darted beneath the rocks...and I have not seen him out ever since. This
has been for about 2 days as well. I'm afraid that he's too
stressed out and wouldn't come out to feed anymore...Please help.
Thanks in advance... P.S. Grateful thanks to folks like you guys for
the knowledge you provide which makes this hobby a much easier and fun
thing to do... <Firefish are often shy fish which prefer a calm
environment. Some fish are known for hiding for weeks before they
finally come out to feed. I would do some "night searches"
and look for the fish. If you're unable to find him, you may want
to take apart your rockwork to locate him. If the fish is alive, it
should eventually come out. Continue to feed, although in smaller
amounts, for the fact that the fish may still be alive. I've had a
similar experience with a Royal Gramma. In this incident, the fish went
missing for 9 days before he finally came out to eat. The fish has been
doing fine ever since. I hope this helps.> Take Care, Graham
Wetwebmedia.com Crew
Re: Firefish trouble,,, Thanks for your input, but he died
last night when I checked under the rock. <I'm sorry to hear
about your loss.> I kinda expected that as he was gasping pretty
heavily since the hiding began...I'm suspecting that I did not
acclimate him too well and with too little time...I'll try another
Firefish and see the difference with a much longer acclimation
period... By the way, is common household super glue ok for sticking
corals unto rocks as far as toxicity goes? Please let me
know...Thanks... <Yes, most super glue is fine for gluing corals.
Make sure that it contains Cyanoacrylate. Many of the super glue which
doesn't contain Cyanoacrylate will not be safe in your aquarium.
For gluing corals under water, I actually prefer superglue gel instead
of the standard superglue. The gel is able to mount corals under the
water.> Graham Stephan
Re: Firefish trouble,,, I've heard that calcium levels
that are too high can be toxic to its inhabitants, especially fish. I
do add liquefied calcium to the tank on a regular basis (to
manufacturer's recommendations - 1 drop per gallon everyday) and I
don't have a calcium test kit...Do you see a problem? <Yes...I
see a major problem. One of the most important pieces of information
I've learned in this hobby is that you should always test for what
you add. I cannot stress this enough. I would recommend you purchase a
calcium and alkalinity test kit as soon as possible and test for these
elements. From my experience, Salifert and LaMotte test kits are some
of the most accurate kits. Could this have killed my fish? Thanks for
your input once again... <I highly doubt so. If you did indeed have
an extreme amount of calcium, you would most likely be seeing a calcium
carbonate substance building up on your glass/rockwork. I'm
thinking your fish died due to excessive amounts of stress rather than
from water quality/acclimation.> Take Care, Graham Stephan
Goby Suicide? My dart goby killed himself this morning. I got
him on 02/09/2003 so he was almost a year old. The other day I notice
he was stressed out lying on the bottom. I placed him in a refugium
below the tank. A day later he seemed fine, so moved him back to the
main tank. Everything seemed fine. He came out when I started
feeding... but the tank needed more food so I put some more in. All of
a sudden the dart Goby was in the corner digging wildly. The dart goby
stopped and fell half in and half out of the whole he had just dug. He
dug his own grave. I don't get it. I removed him promptly to place
him in the refugium again but he was dead with his mouth wide
open. Anyone else have a goby commit suicide. It was
weird. <I've seen this happen before to wrasses and other
gobies. I'm not sure if it is a "phenomenon", or just a
bunch of uncorrelated coincidences. When a fish dies suddenly, I'd
always launch my own "investigation" as to the cause of
death. Often, it can be traced to some specific incident, like a
poisoning, lapse in stable tank chemistry, or pestering by another
fish. Other times, the answer eludes us. All I can suggest is to
eliminate the obvious stuff, then explore the exotic! The truth is out
there...Regards, Scott F.>
Firefish In Peril? Well, I have been treating my 2 clowns,
two Chromis and Firefish for about two months now ever since they have
had Ich. I'm glad to say that the Ich looks like it's gone with
no new spots appearing and only a couple of spots left. <Good to
hear that> Unfortunately, the Firefish, (who I regret quarantining
to begin with because he never had Ich) has stopped eating and hides
all day. <As a not- quarantine is the right thing to do. No regrets,
okay?> I looked at him closely and on his side there is a reddish
bruise forming. This really worries me because I love this fish. I
immediately did a water change and I will do another one. I'm just
wondering what could have caused this and what should I do? Could it be
the low salinity (1.009)? <I doubt it. Could be anything from some
sort of trauma to an internal problem of some sort> I have had him
in hyposalinity before and nothing happened. Also, what else can I do
other than water changes? All five fish are in a ten gallon with
hang-on filter and a protein skimmer. Should I treat with a medication,
if so which one? <At this point, we are not certain what we're
dealing with here, so using medication is not a good idea> Would
acclimating him to a higher salinity within a few days and moving him
back to the main tank help, or would it make the problem worse due to
stress? <If it were me, I'd start re-acclimating the fish back
to normal specific gravity, and get him back into the display as soon
as possible. I would think that this will help alleviate some
stress.> Thank you so much for your help. <Glad to be of service!
Regards, Scott F>
Sick Firefish-Or Funky Behavior? My purple Firefish has been
in Cupramine for nearly two weeks. I treated it because it
looked like it was flashing. On occasion it would dive down,
touch its belly on the bottom and then dart up. It did this
again today after 12 days of copper. Could this be something other than
Ich? It never rubs its gills, always the
underside. Also, would it still be doing this after 12 days
in copper? I know that these fish bury themselves in the
sand and I'm wondering if the behaviour I saw is normal. <Good
thought...I have seen similar behavior in Halichoeres species wrasses,
and it can easily be mistaken for "scratching". If the fish
is otherwise appearing healthy, without other symptoms commonly
associated with Ich or other parasitic diseases, then I'd back off
the meds and observe the fish for a few more days. If all looks good,
I'd repatriate him into his display tank> If you think it is
Ich, after 14 days should I do a water change with display tank water
and try formalin in a few weeks? <May not be Ich, as stated above.
I'd opt for observation before another round of stressful
medication.> Many thanks, Peter <My pleasure, Peter! Good luck!
Regards, Scott F>
Firefish On The Mend! Hi Scott / Crew <Hi there!>
Thanks for your prompt reply. <You're quite welcome!> The
Purple Firefish seems to be its normal self again. Heavy breathing is
getting less obvious and it is also eating the fresh shrimp that we
fed. <Excellent to hear. as I always say, "A fish that eats is
a fish that lives". It's true!> I will continue to monitor.
<Good...Stay on top of things!> Thanks. Ai Kun <My pleasure!
Regards, Scott F>
Firefish Feeling Ill Hi. <Hey, Mike G with you this
afternoon.> I purchased a Firefish 11 days ago and have been keeping
him in a QT since the moment I got him. <Very good, QT is always the
responsible way to go.> Unfortunately, I noticed he had Ich, so I
brought the salinity down to 1.009 over the course of three days. He
was eating for the first three days I had him but he has not eaten
since then. A day or two after he stopped eating, I noticed his belly
looked swollen. He was also acting lethargic. <Those symptoms just
cry out "Bacterial Infection!"> I waited a day to make
sure I had an internal bacterial infection on my hands, something that
is said to be common among fish with an immune system weakened by Ich.
His belly continued to enlarge during this time. I then went out and
purchased Maracyn-Two and am now on the sixth day of the treatment. His
belly is no longer swollen and he seems a bit more active.
<Wonderful! That is always good news!> However, he's still
not eating. <Not-so-good news, but at least the swelling is
gone.> I've tried feeding him multiple kinds of shrimp, pellet
food, and flake food but to no avail (I even soaked some of it in
garlic). Do you think his lacking appetite is due to the hyposalinity
and medication? <I think that would be safe to assume.> Is there
anything else I can do or should I not be concerned about this? The
quality of the water is very good\u2014No ammonia, nitrites, or
nitrates, pH at 8.3. Another thing I've been noticing is his
tendency to swim along the bottom of the tank. He will rarely swim out
in the open and seems to prefer having his body grazing the bottom of
the tank at all times. Is this normal swimming behavior or is it a sign
of something? Thanks in advance! <Well, I personally would continue
with the medication, and try feeding him several times a day. Stay on
top of your water changes, and keep the conditions right. I would also
begin to raise the salinity once I was positive he was free of
pathogens. Hopefully you will be rewarded with a wonderful and healthy
Firefish! Good luck, Mike G>
Firefish I haven't received a reply to the last two
emails I've sent to you guys, but hopefully this one will get a
response. My Firefish has been in QT for 25 days, 22 of those in hypo.
I am currently in the process of raising the salinity to 35ppt. He
had Ich and an internal bacterial infection, both of which seem to be
gone, thanks to the hypo and Maracyn-Two. I stopped the M2 treatment
about a week and a half ago and added the carbon back into the filter.
He hasn't eaten prepared foods in 22 days. I don't know what
he's living off of, but occasionally I see him biting at the sand.
He doesn't show any interest in the multiple kinds of food I've
presented to him. Flake food, brine shrimp, Formula One pellets, raw
shrimp, etc. All with and without garlic (I would try Mysis but I
can't find any around here for the life of me). For the first
couple days I had him, he was eating the flake food just fine. I feel
as though I'm running out of options. Right now, I'm
just trying to get him into my display as quickly as
possible, hoping he might gain an appetite once he's in there (he
has never been in my display; he went straight into the QT the moment I
got him). He's getting skinnier and skinnier and it's
really hard to watch and not know what else to do. I would really
appreciate any help on what to do here. He's still swimming around
the tank some, and he actually seems more active lately than he has
been. Thanks in advance! Heather <Heather, I would try some frozen
Cyclop-eeze. There are not too many fish that will refuse
this, small fish that is. Also might want to find some live adult brine
and try that. <James (Salty Dog)>
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