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FW to SW Conversion I have a 60 gallon Via-Aqua aquarium that was originally used to house African Cichlids so it has a crushed coral substrate (about 1.5"-2" thick). I recently decided change this to my first saltwater tank, primarily non-aggressive/mildly aggressive fish (see list below for what I want) and I also want some live rock with some mushrooms and anemones. <Please research anemones and their historically dismal survival rate, first.> The tank has a built in trickle filter in the hood, and has 3 lights in the hood but I can't remember what wattage they are. It also has a 200 watt Via-Aqua heater and is being kept at 78 degrees. The tank has already been switched to salt (I made the change yesterday and is currently cycling with 3 damsels and a 5 lb chunk of cured live rock (it was cured at my LFS. I plan on adding more as I can afford it. As of this afternoon, my readings that the LFS tested were Nitrates 0/Ammonia 0.25/pH 8.3/Salinity 1.022). What else do I absolutely have to have to make this set-up work? <A couple of good books. Let me suggest Mike Paletta's "The New Marine Aquarium" and Bob Fenner's "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist."> Is a protein skimmer a must or can I get by without one? <I strongly urge anyone considering a marine tank to buy a protein skimmer. Fundamentally, I believe more people will be successful with one than without one.> My LFS said I don't need one unless I'm doing hard corals but I want to double check on this. <I use and recommend them for all marine aquariums.> Also, are the following fish species compatible providing I take out the damsels? Clarkii Clown Maroon/White Stripe Clown True Percula Clown <Only one clownfish species and then only two of that species, please.> Scooter Blennie <A poor choice for most aquarists. They tend to slowly starve to death over six months to a year unless the tanks are very large, mature, and stocked with noncompeting fish.> Flame Hawkfish Diadem Dottyback Royal Dottyback Purple/Strawberry Dottyback <Only one Dottyback/Pseudochromis> Copperband Butterfly <Not to be recommended to the beginner.> Royal Gramma Basslet <Same as the Dottyback above. You will have to pick one of these four.> Disbar Anthias <Not to be recommended to the beginner.> On most of them I am planning on just doing 1 of each. I would like to have a couple of Blennies and possibly a couple each of the Royal and Purple/Strawberry Dottybacks. <You need to get those books above so you can begin to educate yourself on captive husbandry, temperaments, and compatibility.> Approximately how many fish will I be able to put in this 60 gallon tank. <6-10 depending on size.> Sorry for all of the questions. I've always done freshwater and am just learning the ropes on saltwater so don't want to mess anything up too badly or overstock my tank! Thanks for your help! Ronni <Good luck! -Steven Pro> Is a saltwater reef aquarium possible with a smaller tank (for a beginner)? Hi, I just came back from a very good specialty fish store in New York. I went there resigned to buy myself a small freshwater tank since, after much research, it looked too costly and complicated to buy and set up a tank of at least 55 gallon to start my first saltwater aquarium (which is really what I want). After talking about freshwater tanks with the salesperson (he was highly recommending the Aqua Via tanks with filter incorporated in the hood), he finally got out of me that I would prefer a saltwater tank. He told me that he could sell me a package with a smaller tank to start a reef aquarium -- the store actually has a few smaller tanks set up as reefs as demos. <Ok> In all of the books I have consulted, the author recommends a tank of at least 55 gallons in order to keep good water quality, especially for the invertebrates. <Yes, but for the added reason of a new hobbyist has all that much more water to work with/make mistakes. It is far easier for a small mistake to turn into a major catastrophe in a small tank vs. a larger volume of water.> He said this was true in the past but that there are now excellent new more compact "all-inclusive" filters on the market that have changed that reality (he was referring to an Amiracle wet dry trickle filter). <I would pass on the W/D for a small fish tank or any size reef tank. I only like to use W/D's when you have a large fish load of messy eaters and the need for nitrification overwhelms concerns for nitrate accumulation.> Should I follow his advice and buy myself a 26 or 36 gal tank to start a reef (with fish and invertebrates)? <It is possible with increased risks. It is still not cheap, though.> I understand that a smaller tank will limit the number and size of the fish I can have but if I have to choose between a reef with a few smaller fish and no saltwater aquarium at all. Can you tell me if this would be a mistake and I would have a hard time keeping my critters alive in such an environment? <It really depends on you and your commitment (time for maintenance, reading, educating yourself).> Thank you for your time. Best, Jean Fr??ic P.S. Your book "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist" is on the way. <Good luck to you! -Steven Pro> Converting FW to marine Hi Bob ( or whoever happens not to be diving on coral reefs! ) <does diving into a bowl of potato chips count for anything?> Would love your input on converting my 30gal freshwater to a marine tank. <OK... go for it> I've spoken to a lot of 'fish people' regarding what is required in upgrading equipment etc, some say more biological filtration in the shape of external canister filters while others just say get some live rock and let that perform the biological function in isolation. <the latter for sure! Just live rock and a good protein skimmer. Do check out the small Tunze model at General Aquatics (new banner on WWM). They have a sweet Tunze for $109> I'm thinking that would like to have a lightly stocked (say 4) fish only tank with live rock. I've calculated that I need about 25lbs based on your articles. <actually twice as much if you want a natural system without any man-made filters> Would this be enough to provide complete biological filtration without the need for any further external filters and enable me to remove the internal Juwel sponge power filter set up. <as above... closer to 2 lbs per gallon> By the way a sump is out of the question. <no problem... just be strict with daily evaporation top off so that your skimmer performs well> My other worry is the lighting. I currently have two 18W NO fluorescents positioned 2 inches above the water line, they both have reflectors. <indeed modest... but some hardy corals will still live here> Will this be enough lighting for the live rock to at least 'live' or is more lighting required? <very fine for live rock without corals> I know I need to change the tubes, but to what, will a 10k and an actinic be enough ? <too blue likely. But all depends on what if any corals you put in there and their respective needs> Put simply:- if live rock filtration = more lighting, then that = ????? and that's not really a viable proposition for this tank as another aesthetically matching light fitting would be too expensive coupled with the live rock expense. <understood... focus on the live rock first. Lights can be upgraded later as you add animals later that need more light> I know I need a skimmer as well but that's another question for a different day. its way past bedtime here across the pond. <ahhh... sorry about the domestic vender reference above. But do still look into that nicely small and affordable Tunze skimmer. And cheers to you, my friend in the lovely UK> Thanks for your help, it is so appreciated, and as for the content of the website and CMA -fantastic. Andy <best regards, Anthony> question regarding converting on a budget My husband and I have a 75 gallon we have been toying with the idea of converting from fresh water to marine fish - only, for years now. We have a H.O.T Magnum and another large hang-on filter (generic). Now my question comes in, we are on a very tight budget, due to the resent addition to our family. <I understand.> But I am board with this fresh water tank and its one inhabitant, a five year old Oscar. I believe the only equipment that we need to buy is a couple of powerheads, a protein skimmer, and some live rock, is this all? <To this I would add a good book (Mike Paletta's "The New Marine Aquarium" and Bob's "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist" are both excellent), some sand, a saltwater-safe heater (many freshwater ones are not), and some test kits (pH, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate).> What type of protein skimmer would you recommend considering our budget and tank size? <I would strongly consider the Aqua-C Remora line.> Also, what type of lighting, cheaply, do you recommend we upgrade to? <Two 40 watt normal output lamps will be all you need for fish-only.> Thank you very much! Miranda B. <Welcome to the club. -Steven Pro> FW to SW Hi. I have kept freshwater fish for about 5 years now and I wish to convert a 40 gallon Malawi tank to a saltwater tank. At the moment for filtration I have a Eheim eccho canister filter turning over 220 litres/hour. Would this be suitable for the return flow from an approximate 15 gallon sump and/or what other filtration do you recommend. <Canister filters are not really designed to operate as a return pump from a sump. The only filtration I use is liverock, livesand, and protein skimmers (sometimes adding a refugium).> I realize that I will need a protein skimmer and I will also use the plenum system. Although it will start off as a fish-only tank I would like to set it up so that I could keep invertebrates in the same setup in the future. <A difficult line to walk depending on what fish and/or invertebrates you are talking about. In most instances, one most determine what kind of inhabitants you really want and then tailor the tank to their needs.> Will I need a wet/dry filter <Probably not> and roughly how much will the conversion from fresh to salt be as I am on a budget. <You will spend hundreds of dollars, approaching a thousand, depending on what you currently have and what you are planning in particular. Liverock, livesand, protein skimmer, test kits, lighting upgrades, saltwater safe heater, etc. these things add up. Let me suggest Mike Paletta's "The New Marine Aquarium" as a great start. -Steven Pro> FW to SW Conversion Hello Gentlemen. I have a question about conversion from FW to SW. I have a 37G tank with a Marineland 300 biowheel and extra BioMax media for biological filtration. The tank had cycled years ago. Ammonia & Nitrite have always been zero. I set it up for saltwater and, after testing for N03, NH3, NO2, I promptly went out and bought a nice healthy yellow Sailfin Tang. In no time at all, it got sick and, on testing, I found that my NH3 level was 2ppm and my NO2 was a bright purple on the color scale. Not good! <Agreed> I never realized that different microbes populate different aquaria water. I was under the impression that my wheel and media would continue to do it's thing in my SW tank. <No, there are the same types of bacteria, but different species. There are not many things that can live in either fresh or salt water.> My question is this. Should I clean my biowheel of old bacteria or leave it in to become repopulated with SW bacteria? <I would just leave it if it is still spinning well and the spindle is plastic (some of the older one were made of stainless steel). If yours is not spinning freely or made with a stainless steel rod, buy a new one made of inert material (I think they are either a plastic or ceramic now).> Should I attempt fishless cycling? (Go here to read. http://www.tomgriffin.com/aquamag/cycle2.html) <I have seen this type of fishless cycling before. I prefer cycling with liverock.> My Tang lived for 2 weeks and then died. I have no fish in the tank but my Ammonia is approx 1ppm and my Nitrite is about 1.5 ppm. I am not adding any load since there is nothing in the tank. My LFS is having their annual 50% off fish in 3 weeks and I would love to take advantage of their sale. <Not sure you can make it with this kind of time frame.> Any additional cycling help would be welcomed. Thanks <I recommend Mike Paletta's book "The New Marine Aquarium" to all new saltwater hobbyists. It is very good and fairly inexpensive, a great investment. -Steven Pro> FW to SW Equipment Hello! I currently have a 29 gallon freshwater aquarium with a whisper power filter 3, a diaphragm air pump, and a 50 watt heater as the only equipment. Would the addition of a protein skimmer (along with the obvious addition of new substrate, decor, etc) be sufficient to convert my set up to a FO marine system? <Your tank with its Whisper filter plus a skimmer, live rock, live sand, test kits, new heater (most freshwater heaters are not safe with saltwater), and a book (Mike Paletta's "The New Marine Aquarium" is excellent for beginners and is inexpensive, too) should outfit you pretty well.> If so, what brand/size do you recommend? <Please see here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/skimbestof.htm> I am most interested in housing a yellow head jawfish (Opistognathus Aurifrons) or two. Would this set up be adequate? <It could be. Please see here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/jawfishe.htm> If so, what other fish, if any, could I add to such a small tank in addition to the one or two jawfish? <A few Cardinalfish or a pair of Clownfish would give you something up in the water column.> What type of substrate would you recommend? <Sand> Are the lighting requirements of a FO marine system different than that of freshwater? <Slightly different color of the lamps for accent the different colors.> I'm sorry I ask so many questions! I've always been under the impression that marine aquariums are extraordinarily difficult to set up and maintain, but your amazing site has given me the confidence to attempt it. Nevertheless, I want to be sure that my plans are feasible before I start working on the switch. <My best advice is to get Paletta's book and read it cover to cover first.> It doesn't help that I don't trust the 'expertise' of the folks at my LFS. I believe I have found THE source for aquarium info at your site! <Many other sources in print are excellent, too, but thank you for the compliments.> Thanks so much for your time! --Chris B. <Good luck to you! -Steven Pro> Substrate/pH Hi I currently have a freshwater setup with a few juvenile Monodactylus argenteus, and I am currently constructing an additional setup, this one marine. I intend on moving the Monos to the new tank for their health. My question is this: How quickly would about 30 or so pounds of aragonite affect the pH of a 55 gallon aquarium? (Would it be safe to, immediately after adding freshwater to the 55 gallon with aragonite, move the Monos to that tank, or would the pH change be too rapid? <Should be fine to just use the aragonite (rinsed of dust of course)... it will elevate the pH of the water likely... and you don't state what the current pH is... if it is only a tenth or two tenths higher, the Monos should make the switch fine (do move a good part of their water with them)> The plan would then be to, through water changes, increase the salinity to marine. The pH in the tap and the freshwater tank currently housing the Monos is about 7.0) <Oh! There it is... likely the new substrate will drive the pH up to the upper sevens... So I would start manipulating the pH of their current water... with just baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) additions... about a level teaspoon per day (dissolved in some tank water) and poured around the edge of the system... depending on the buffering make-up of the current system, this will move the pH up over a matter of a few weeks to the 7.8 range> Also, how fast can the salinity be changed (i.e. 0.001 sg per week, or what rate)? <A thousandth a day with these fishes is about maximum and ideal. Bob Fenner> Thanks, Patrick FW to SW Hi, Bob. I have an eclipse system six and would love to convert it to a marine set up... nothing fancy, just a 'start up tank' with only a few damsels. <It will only house one damsel comfortably.> I know it is considered small for a marine tank, but would it work for a year or two until I feel more comfortable to move on to a larger more appropriate tank? <Yes, it can be done. It is more delicate than a larger tank, though.> A million thanks! ~Alecia <You are welcome a million. -Steven Pro> Change to saltwater Hello Bob and crew... <<and crew here, at your service...>> I send yet another email, thanks for all your patience and speedy replies. <<no worries.>> I have a 54gal corner tank, a 200W heater and a smaller one (I think 150 or something like that) Fluval 404, and 204 canister filters, the large one with carbon, foam inserts, and the Fluval bio media, the small one with the foam inserts and that cotton-ball-like filter media. There is approx 1"-1 1/2" of crushed coral on the bottom, and some large (10") shells. Currently there are some African Cichlids in the tank, but I am looking to switch over to a saltwater setup...I have been bitten by the bug I guess. <<you know, they make a repellent for this... ;-) >> Anyhow...I was wondering what changes would need to be made for a FO setup, other than adding the salt and a skimmer. Should I keep it as it is, with just these couple of additions, or should I go for it and get some live rock, replace the crushed coral with sand, and build it from there. <<Well, the live rock in my opinion is a necessary component, and in sufficient quantities and circulation will likely outperform your canister filters. Likewise, these filter's aren't ideally suited for marine use, but the will work. I would go the live rock route.>> I was hoping to have a small school...maybe some green Chromis or something of the sort...I would like a couple slightly larger fish, but I am not sure what will go with the schooling fish, perhaps a tang (I guess this would require the live rock) or a wrasse of some sort...but anyhow, I guess there are far too many options to go through here. <<Browse the marine section of WWM - many, many choices.>> Any insight you might have would be just lovely. Thanks Chris <<Cheers, J -- >> Marine Newbie Hi Bob, I have a 33gal tank (36" long, 12" wide, 18" tall) that I have had set up for freshwater the last couple years and I would like to convert it into a marine system. I plan on housing several (3-4) small fish, possibly some small inverts (hermit crabs, snails) and live rock. Using a live sand substrate, I would first put in the live rock (as much as I can afford at the time!) to cycle the system. I'm thinking of adding a damsel fish or two after the tank has cycled for a week or two, and/or a clownfish. <The clownfish would be a far better choice due to the damsels territoriality/aggression.> Right now, since the tank is set up for freshwater, I have an Aquaclear 300 filter (would this be useful for the marine set-up?) <Sure> and a Hagen canopy that came with my tank. The canopy supports one 24" fluorescent tube, and I'm pretty sure it doesn't support HO. Would I need a new canopy so I can house more lighting? <There are some retrofit kits available from places such as AHSupply.com if you are a DIYer.> How many watts/gal do you need if you have live rock, but not a reef aquarium? <One PC Smartlight lamp would serve you well.> What type of lighting would you suggest? Keep in mind I don't have a lot to spend (I'm a student). I'm also looking at investing in a Bak-Pak2 protein skimmer/biological filter. Eventually, after the tank has matured for several months/year, I would like to add a dwarf angelfish and possibly a dwarf lionfish, of course removing most of, or all of, the damselfish to free up room. Any comments or suggestions on my planned setup would be greatly appreciated. <The clownfish, dwarf angel, and dwarf lionfish are workable in this size aquarium.> Thank-you, Mike <You are welcome. -Steven Pro> FW to SW Hey Bob, I have a 33 gallon freshwater aquarium which I am planning on converting over to tropical saltwater. I have a few fish in mind, but I would like to center the aquarium around a Fu Manchu Lionfish, adding in a Maroon clownfish, and a Coral Beauty Angelfish for company. I plan on having liverock, don't know how much, <Depends on for looks or biological filtration. Many writings on WWM regarding both.> and a crushed coral substrate. <If you use crushed coral, keep it very thin, less than one inch. Otherwise, look into using a sand bed.> My tank has only one fluorescent tube. For filtration I have a Aquaclear 300 powerfilter and would be looking at getting a hang-on protein skimmer (Prizm?). <For this application, I would recommend a CPR Bak-Pak.> I don't have a lot to spend and don't plan on getting everything at once. I would set up the substrate, some liverock, and possibly one of the fish shortly after. I would then work my way from there as the months progressed. Am I on the right track or am I missing anything? <Your fish selection is going to be pretty cramped at full size, but it is workable.> I've never kept a marine aquarium before and want to make sure my bases are covered before I get started. <The first thing you should buy, forget liverock, sand or whatever, is a good book. Bob's "Conscientious Marine Aquarist" is excellent. I have also heard good things about Mike Paletta's "The New Marine Aquarium." Thanks for your opinions! Mike. <You are welcome. -Steven Pro> A Cry for Help Hello Bob! I have had a 75 gal salt water set up since January this year. Not having a lot of luck with occupants other than damsels and hermit crabs. My question is this: Since I have had awesome luck with my fresh water tank (had up & running 2 yrs) should I shut down my salt tank & convert to fresh or are there hardy marine fish that I can add to my set up? <Saltwater fish are not that much more difficult than freshwater fish. You do not say what in particular is giving you so much trouble, but it is not uncommon for beginner aquarists to experience problems. These are usually brought on by poor setups or advise. I hate to lose any marine hobbyist, but it is really your decision. If you feel that you have exhausted all avenues to success, go back to doing what you have been successful with.> I'm discouraged with my tank, and I've done everything the way I should, but with no real luck. My LFS doesn't carry many damsels so am at a loss. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Kat <Given only the information supplied, I can give you no advise other than to continue your education into aquarium husbandry by reading on WWM. -Steven Pro> Fresh to Salt Conversion Hi Bob, Great site with fantastic information, I love reading it, anyway my question. I have a 28 gal freshwater tank at the moment but I want to convert it to a lightly stocked fish only marine. Now everyone I speak to (in the business of selling equipment!) says that I need to upgrade my filtration from the internal powerfilter (400L/hr) with sponge media which is fitted at the moment. Please bear with me if I'm missing something obvious but surely if my ammonia and nitrite readings are currently 0ppm then aren't I right in assuming that my filter is doing its job perfectly well and does not need to be upgraded for a similarly stocked marine tank? <Close, but not completely true. Many freshwater filters are perfectly capable of working wonderfully in freshwater, but are inappropriate or incomplete in saltwater.> I can see logic in removing protein beforehand with a skimmer to reduce the load on the filter and subsequent nitrates but I can't see the necessity for more bio filtration. <I would not advocate any additional biological filtration at all other than liverock.> How can it be increased beyond 100% in any case? Many thanks, Andy (Bracing myself for an answer that is going to make me say "of course, never thought of that!") <I would just use liverock, livesand, protein skimmer, and some additional circulation, but not biological filtration. -Steven Pro> Fresh to Salt Conversion Hey Bob, I'm sure you remember the kid with ambitious dreams of owning a shark tank? <Steven Pro in this morning and I did follow the conversation on the daily page.> Anyway, it's me again, Tyler Medaris. I've had a 28 gallon freshwater aquarium with Lake Malawi cichlids, and frankly I'm bored with it. I was wondering if I could convert it to a saltwater tank with the following: Skilter Filter 250, <A rather lousy skimmer. You should choose something else. Many recommendations in our skimmer selection FAQ file.> live rock with HUGE amounts of algae on it, heater, live sand, and a powerhead? The tank would hold a carpet anemone, several clownfish( percula, or ocellaris), a purple tang, a mandarin goby, possibly a pair of harlequin shrimps (okay or not?), other corals, and a cleanup crew of other invertebrates. <Leave out the anemone, Tang, Mandarin, and Harlequin shrimps and you will be ok. The reasons for leaving these out are varied, but you can find out why by searching the WWM site.> The Skilter as I'm sure you know includes a skimmer, but should I upgrade it to the 400 model? <No, will not help. You need something better.> I'm bored to death with the freshwater and I love the marine habitats and was hoping to set it up for about or under $300. <Probably over $300 once said and done.> Is this okay, if I need more what do I need? Ty Medaris <Do make use of the extensive files on WWM to educate yourself. -Steven Pro> Brackish to Marine Hi Bob, I have two questions for you, we're thinking of converting our current Brackish setup to Marine. We're running a 55 gallon system with 2 green spotted puffers, 1 figure 8 puffer, 2 silver scats, 2 orange chromides and 2 yellow Monos. The salinity in the tank currently is 1.011, is it possible to slowly convert the brackish to full marine? <Yes... but the Chromides may not adjust well to full salinity...> Would you recommend it, or should we be setting up a new tank entirely? <A neat experiment, experience... I would try it... but an "all-marine" (not converted brackish) arrangement will very likely be more interesting in the longer haul> The Mono's originally came from a full marine tank and were acclimatized to the brackish conditions over a period of time upon their arrival. I've seen green spotted puffers in full marine at the LFS. If it's possible to convert the system, the only concern I have now is the Figure 8 puffer which is in the tank currently. He's about 2 inches long, and to be honest the hardiest fish we have. Were we to move to full marine I would most likely move him to our second tank which is fresh. So this is the second question, I've read all about figure 8's, ours originally came from a brackish setup at the LFS, but I've heard everything ranging from them being fresh only, fresh to light brackish, to withstanding full marine. I'm guessing the fresh to light brackish is correct, I know they're one of the less common breeds. Any insight into this Figure 8 mystery would be great. <Please read about this species on WetWebMedia.com... it is able to make the transition, but prefers less alkaline water. Bob Fenner> Amy Miranda No experience! I need help! (fresh to marine aquarist) Hi...I
am a kindergarten teacher. We have been studying ocean animals and had
a visit from a retired biologist from a local university. She left us
with an anemone and a snail, though I don't know what kind...I have
had some previous experience with freshwater fish and only have a 5 gal
tank (not currently set up). I have a biological power filter, heat
pump, and aquarium salt for freshwater fish. The snail and anemone are
currently in a plastic bag. HELP! what do I need to do so that I can
get them out of the bag and set up as quickly as possible without
killing them...I am sure a trip to the LFS would be advisable, however
they are not very helpful there... thanks Andrea <wow! Andrea... the
advice that you need cannot be answered in a single e-mail short of a
novella or dissertation. Care for seawater animals is nothing like
freshwater creatures. You cannot simply whip up a tank of dechlorinated
water. The cost of the setup you will need is well over one hundred
dollars if not several hundred depending on the anemone species (light
requirements as a photosynthetic animal). These poor animals were just
dropped off in a bag?!? I have great concern for them truthfully. The
absolute best thing to do is to find a LFS or another aquarist that can
take them immediately. You need more information and equipment than can
be gathered in time to save their lives. It was honestly irresponsible
for someone to have dropped off these animals without knowing if you
had compatible tankmates or even the life support to keep them! When
you are ready, please study the many articles in the WWM archives...
begin by navigating from the homepage. Best regards, Anthony> Marine aquarium Hi Bob, Great website, thought I would join in! <Steven Pro in this evening, part of the WWM crew.> I have always kept freshwater tanks and wondered about the marine jump. Well, I stopped wondering and purchased a 65 Gallon tank ( I hope my conversions are right, I'm used to the metric system) with the intention of stocking it with fish alone. <Welcome to our ranks.> It is now five months along and once again I am being transferred to another country, however this time I will be settling there for good and therefore will be starting the system from scratch - I had expected to be here in New Zealand for another 2 years. This email concerns algae...irritating stuff ! Initially I approached an aquatic centre which set the whole system up for me by running the stack filter off an existing tank for 6 weeks and then started my tank going with the matured filter once that process was completed. I obviously had to wait for all the levels to reach the desired standard, which took a further 3 weeks. I went out and proudly bought my first fish, a Clark's Clown. About two weeks later I noticed for the first time glimpses of green algae and then red algae which I had read would indicate the system was maturing and everything was as it should be. <Depends on the exact type of algae, many out there, some not as desirable as others.> All levels continued to remain as they should, however, the algae proliferated. I went against my stockist's advise and installed a protein skimmer, he had assured me it wouldn't be needed, and a powerhead to get some movement in the aquarium. However, they seem to have had no detrimental effect on the algae. <A properly functioning protein skimmer is one of the best pieces of equipment to use for nutrient export.> The red algae started in a small patch and we watched with wonder as it grew quite quickly and suddenly realized it was not as friendly as it had first appeared - it's appearance is velvet-ish and spreads over the decor leaving a smooth appearance over the top. <Sounds like Cyanobacteria, not algae.> I'm not sure if it was the green algae beneath it which caused it, but bubbles started appearing just beneath it and eventually the globules of red algae were floating all over the surface of the water. The green algae started as a fluorescent green and became a hairy dark green. Just before I had to pack everything up and get the tank ready to be shipped, I checked the levels and they were as follows: NH3 = 0, NO2 = 0, NO3 = 5, PO4 = 0.25, pH = 8.3. The salinity was 1.023. <All sound reasonable, but archive the WWM site and you will read many FAQ's on how most phosphate kits are unable to measure total phosphate, a primary fuel for Cyanobacteria.> As I will be starting from scratch again, I hope to do better this time. How do I stop the algae from becoming so prolific, is there more I can do? <Regular water changes, careful feeding, good nutrient export processes, and clean source water are all good ideas for any tank.> It was suggested that the red algae was actually a bacteria that I could control with more protein skimming or by only using ionized water? <Correct, deoinized and/or reverse osmosis water help tremendously.> Should I just continue to get everybody's point of view, and continue reading conflicting statements about the way things should be done until I come up with my own formula, or is there a hard fast way to get the right results? <Do continue reading and draw your own conclusions, but most of the various methodologies will work and have the same very basic broad points that I wrote about earlier; regular water changes, careful feeding, good nutrient export processes, and clean source water.> I think I've found myself a new lifetime hobby. <Glad to hear it.> Regards, Craig <Have a nice weekend. -Steven Pro> Movin' up? Hello Bob (or fellow expert) <Steven Pro this evening after having some sushi and vino with Anthony.> Hope you are having a great day! I have a couple of dumb questions. I have a 39 gallon tank and have had it set up as brackish for several months, (I'm the one with all the mollies- started with 2 and now at least 50 reside here....) Hose band is bored with the mollies, and he thinks I should go ahead with making the switch to salt.....( really I wanted a tank that could be appropriate for salt, but the tank HE bought me is small for salt....(I think) My pet store fellow tells me that any size tank can be salt. Is this true? <It is always easier to keep a successful aquarium in the largest tank possible, but 39 is fine for salt.> I seem to be having success with brackish, and I completely love this hobby...What do you think? I've been getting great responses from Anthony.. (Hi guy!) How much more do I need to buy and what fish are better for a beginner salt water enthusiast <Equipment wise for a 39, I would use the CPR Bak-Pak with another powerhead or tow for circulation, some liverock, and DSB. Anything captive bred is great for beginners; a pair of clownfish, pair of Fridmani Pseudochromis, ...> The fish are really pretty, and seem a treasure to have and keep ..... Thank you for writing back. You guys are great! ( the pet store said they will take my babies and sell them, I hope they won't be dinner for something-but it's nature, I guess) Sue <Good luck with the transformation. -Steven Pro> saltwater? Or freshwater? Hello there fish friends, I know Im
about to ask you the weirdest question, but I just cant keep up with a
saltwater tank, due to my budget. So my question is the following,
would I have to take out my crushed coral and sand out of my saltwater
tank in order to turn it into a freshwater tank? I really didn't
want to take it out and have to put that fake colorful rock in it. And
would I just simply keep doing gradual water changes and add unsalted
water? See, I want to keep the tanks biological filtration going, and I
don't want to have to go through a (cycle) process all over again.
So maybe you can help me out. Maybe I missed a couple of factors that
you could remind me of. Well, thanks again for your quick replies.
Hamilton <I would change the gravel and get new. Anyhow, you have to
cycle the tank over again. The bacteria is different. -Steven
Pro> Freshwater to Marine Hi Bob I've had hours of enjoyment reading over your site and learned a huge amount, many thanks. I currently have a 30 gal freshwater set up with Malawi Cichlids but every time I visit my local shop and see the marine fish on display I leave there thinking I must have a go at marine fishkeeping sometime. There just so colourful. I know a 30gal is a bit small but its all I've got! At present all I have is an internal box filter with sponges and powerhead. I've had conflicting advice on upgrading the system and would be grateful if you could comment on which is the best way to go out of the following:- Im looking at upgrading the system on a low budget for a lightly stocked fish only set up say 1 tang, 2 clownfish and maybe something else (small) Do you think I need a skimmer? <Likely so> a Sander maxi-skim 400 would suit my tank as it will sit under the lid, or should I upgrade the internal filter media from sponges to sintered glass, or invest in an Eheim external canister filter. Would the introduction of live rock together with the current internal box filter provide enough filtration alone? <Yes, could do so> or should I go with a DIY 10 gal sump and skimmer, lose the internal box filter and do the mechanical and biological filtration in the sump. <This would be better> Or do I need to do the lot! Im religious with my water changes and monitor PH nitrite and nitrate weekly so I don't mind the amount of maintenance, it's therapeutic! <Yes, you are disciplined> I know what I would like to do ( buy a new larger tank! ) however for now I just want to get into marine fishkeeping for minimal expense. Thanking you for any comments on the above. Andy <Proceed deliberately my friend. You are ready for this adventure. Bob Fenner> Fresh to Marine conversion, Greece Hello Mr. Fenner I am from Greece and my English are not so good. <It's fine my friend. I understand you> I have two aquariums with African cichlids 450lt and 250lt.I am thinking to change the 250lt to a marine. I would like some advise at the following questions I have. 1.Is it possible to set up a marine aquarium with Mediterranean fishes? <Yes, certainly> If so where can I find some info about? <About set-up? On our site starting here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marineSetUp.htm About the fishes, look for Helmut Debelius books> 2.If I decide to change it to a tropical marine please tell me if the following equipments are enough and what else I will need. a. BERLIN protein skimmer for 350lt b. Two canister filters for 400 and 250 ltr c. Trickle filter for 500lt d. Two power heads for undergravel filter. Thank you. <Should work. Do read as long as you feel to where you understand the various parts of marine set-ups. Perhaps a book on general marine aquarium keeping, maybe look on the internet for others to discuss all with. Bob Fenner> Converting SW to FW (African) Dear Bob, I first have to tell you that I enjoy visiting your site very much - a lot of detailed information is always educational for me. <Thank you for this note> I currently have a 45 Gallon FOWLR tank that is set up for about a year. After realizing that SW is not for me, I am thinking about converting it to Malawi tank. I thought this is a brilliant idea (pat on my shoulder) because right now, I have crushed corals as substrate and liverock which are all designed to bring up the hardness of water, which Malawians likes. Yes, I am planning to use even the liverock for my African tank - would this be a problem ? <Shouldn't be a problem... after cleaning up a bit... perhaps a slight bleach/acid wash to remove most of the biota. See here re a suggested protocol: http://wetwebmedia.com/clnornart.htm> Some think it's a waste of money, but I think since the water parameter is going to be somewhat similar, the same beneficial bacteria will stay on/in the liverock even after the conversion. Do you foresee a big problem with this ? <Different microbes... better to sacrifice them in a complete cleaning... other ones will repopulate the nooks and crannies here quick enough> Thank you and best regards, Takeshi Toda <Be chatting my friend. Bob Fenner> Tropical to Marine. Hi, I have a 4 foot tropical fish tank with only 8 small fish in it. I would love to transform my tank to a marine tank. I have an underground filter, 2x "Fluval 3" filters and an Eheim filter. How easy, and what do I need to do to transform my tank. Also, how much money would it cost. <Yikes, thanks for asking... I tried to locate the link onto our site re the article on this issue... not linked, worse, not even written... but the FAQs are here: http://wetwebmedia.com/fw2marfaqs.htm Now... Please read through the "Marine Set-Up" sections on WetWebMedia.com, related FAQs as you deem a need... It's not hard at all to make this conversion. Cost will likely be minimal at first... for substrate/gravel change-out, salt mix and a hydrometer... but a few hundred dollars going forward... for livestock, likely "advancement" into better lighting, different filtration modes... getting into full-blown reefs. Can be a bit expensive, but definitely worth the cost. Please read over the "Expensive" thread on our chatforum as well: http://talk.wetwebfotos.com/ Be chatting. Bob Fenner> Thank you very much in advance Kevin Cross Question re best reef books Hi, I will be starting a 70+ gallon setup this summer. Right now I am in college. I have had some experience with salt water. I have also been doing a lot of reading on your site and FFexpress faq's. However I was wondering what you consider to be the best books when it comes to learning to create a good reef/fish tank. Thanks for your time, Mason. <Thank you for asking... the ones I use I consider indispensable: Baensch Marine Atlas v.1, Sven Fossa and Alf Nilsen v.1 and 2 of The Modern Coral Reef Aquarium, John Tullock's "Natural Reef Aquariums", and Eric Borneman's new "Aquarium Corals" book... the works by Stephen Spotte, Martin Moe and many others are useful as well... but if you have a good grasp of the first five books listed, you will be successful. Bob Fenner> new aquarium I have had African fresh water fish for the last five years. I want to convert to a salt water reef tank with about six fish or so using Fiji live rock. My tank size is 55 gallons, 4 foot length. I think for filtration, I am going to make my own miracle mud system. <A very good idea.> For lighting, I am totally confused. Can you give me some direction, I have talked with several fish stores, each give me different advice. <Yes... a very easily misunderstood area... Please read over the "Light, Lighting", "Lighting Fixtures for Marine Systems", AND the many FAQs from others and myself posted on the site: www.WetWebMedia.com re light/ing for your type, size, desired livestock type system... Much there... to help you educate yourself by. Bob Fenner> Your Book Bob, I purchased your book, "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist", yesterday. I started reading it at 7:30 p.m. I did not put it down until 1 a.m., two hours after my normal bed time! Well written and informative. <Yes, lots of good help, and many years practicing re "knowing what needs to be made known" and "how to approach a wide interest, ability level mix audience". Sorry about the loss of sleep.> I am a long time fresh water tank keeper and thinking about starting a salt water with fish, live rock and "janitor" species; and if all goes well with water quality, ultimately move toward a full blown reef system. Your book is the best resource I have seen to guide someone like me through this process. Thank you. Regards, John <Thank you. Deeply gratifying to sense the camaraderie, participation/sharing with others lives. Be chatting, Bob Fenner, www.WetWebMedia.com> 75g Reef Tank Questions Hi Bob, I am in the process of setting up a 75g reef tank. After spending years with smaller Cichlid tanks I feel this is the best approach for the size, power bill, and money constrictions I will face. So far I have purchased the following: Tank: 75g (48lx24dx19h) black edge/black silicone (to reduce visible algae growth.) <Good size, nice touch> Stand: Hard wood, with a 31" internal height for fitting a large sump and skimmer. <Very thoughtful> Canopy: Hard wood with front lifting face and room for 4 bulbs. <Coated (wood that is) I trust> Lighting Ballast: IceCap 660 for 4 48" VHO bulbs. I also purchased the necessary VHO end caps and wiring harness. I chose VHO over Metal Halide mostly because of heat; it gets REALLY hot down here on the Gulf of Mexico in the summer. <I understand, and agree> Power Heads: 2 ZooMed brand "Powersweep" power heads with built in rotating head. <Nice products imported by a friend of mine, Gary Bagnall> RO/DI unit: Kent 25gpd with "high silicate removal cartridge" Mr. Fenner, I would like this tank to be setup as a Plenum/Live Rock filtration system. I plan to use about 100lbs of cured/semi cured Fiji Live rock and substrate of a mix between aragonite (such as CaribSea) and some "Live Sand" from a local Marine shop. The tank was drilled as it was built for a 1.5" drain with strainer and a .75" return hole <Wish these were 2" and 1" respectively... and that the latter was a duo... that is, two returns...> .5" higher than the drain hole on the opposite side. I did this for two reasons. 1. It's cheaper than a standpipe and box. 2. I Personally don't like the room that the standpipe/box takes up in the display. I plan on stocking this tank with mostly small "reef safe fish", "cleaner crews" some small invertebrates, such as cleaner shrimps, small stars, I would also like to try my hand at some of the easier to keep soft corals, polyps, mushrooms, etc. And eventually try to keep a few of the easier to keep species of stony corals, a giant clam species, and a hardy anemone for a clownfish. And..... for my ultimate goal, after a year or so of tank maturity, a dragonet. Sorry for the long explanation of my goals, livestock wants, and equipment list, but I felt the details where important to give you before I ask a few questions. <I understand> Question 1. I will be making a large sump with a 50g Rubbermaid tub. <Good, the larger the better of course... and you must allow some space/volume for transit water... should your pump, electricity fail... You'll want to test the maximum height of water in this sump and label it to prevent flooding accidents...> After measuring the water that drains through the drain and output holes of the tank, the sump will safely hold 35g of water and leave some extra head room. <Oh, you're already there> The operating level of my sump will be about 16-18" of water. I wanted a large sump for higher system volume and to have room to add live rock and duplicate a plenum in it with possible reverse to the tank NO fluorescent lighting. I am wondering what good protein skimmers can operate in sump at that level of water? Many... Without concern for over skimming, I would place a Turboflotor 1000 and likely cut back its use as the system settles in (in a month or two, with a timer...) and maybe remove it in several months as your refugium takes over... there will be little to skim, much that might be removed at that point that you'd like to keep> What would you recommend? Could you recommend a good in sump or out of sump skimmer for around $200? I want to go in sump because I have heard a lot of horror stories about out of sump protein skimmers overflowing and dumping water. I would use an out of sump if there were one that wasn't prone to this happening. I only ask because us Cichlid aquarists don't use protein skimmers. <Not yet, here... have seen freshwater models used for removing "limiting" organics (e.g. pheromones, scatols, phenols... short chained aliphatics... that influence growth, reproduction, behavior... in Europe, Asia...> Question 2. I want to use and external pump for recirculation, can you recommend a brand that is energy efficient, dependable, has low heat, and is sized for my application? <Look into the Dolphin line for really big water flow... But for me, a couple of Eheims on the water movement and skimmer are my number one choices... Will check to see if links to these are on the www.wetwebmedia.com website> Question 3. What type of VHO lights should I use for my planned setup? I was thinking two VHO actinics and two VHO 50/50 bulbs. <I'd use just one actinic, and the others 50/50's if you like them> Question 4. I have a 15w quartz UV sterilizer from a 55g fresh that I scrapped. Would love to use this on my new tank but wondered if it would effect my copepod population? <Not deleteriously... I would definitely place it if you have it... last thing before the return(s) to the main tank> Question 5. I planned to mount the "Powersweeps" in opposite diagonal corners from each other, would this work well? And do you feel two is enough current? <Yes for mounting, no for amount of current. Place two other minipumps or powerheads at/near the bottom, aimed at mid front, crossing patterns> Question 6. My wife and I love clownfish so these will be a must, but I am also partial to some of the damsels, is there any of these that can be kept in my system that aren't quite as aggressive if kept solitary? Also, I would be interested in keeping a lionfish as they are smaller than the other species, but only if I didn't have to worry about it destroying my shrimps, snails, and clownfish. <Many, many choices here. Check out my listing, ranking on the site: www.wetwebmedia.com. I'd try some of the genera Chromis, Chrysiptera, maybe Dascyllus melanurus... you'll see> Question 7. My final question...Do you feel that the above described system is acceptable for my goals? If not, what would you change? <Not much at this time... you are setting upon a "grand adventure" with much to unfold to your experience, enjoyment. No outright "mistakes" here (as far as I know of course)... Yes, you could add a few other pieces of gear... ozone, a dryer for same... a calcium reactor rig would be my big investigation for you... but for the next few months, you're doing fine.> I appreciate you taking the time to read/respond to my email. I'm just a beginner in this and want what's best for the fish and my wallet. I try to plan out and get as much information as possible before I make a purchase on anything. I thank you for your time and apologize for the headache I'm sure my rather long and probably trivial to you anyways) email has left you. <And I, just a beginner with a little more time invested in learning about, appreciating this interest... with a keen desire to help others.> Sincerely, Michael Hicks Gulf Shores, AL <Be chatting my friend. Bob Fenner> Going from salt water tap fresh I just bought a 55 gallon tank, the whole set up, tank, over the side and under grave filters, hood, plants nets, power heads, almost everything you need for a 55 gallons tank. This tank was set up as a salt water tank then held pond gold fish in the winter months. My question is How do I completely clean the tank hood filter and other part no to harm the fresh water fresh I will be putting into this tank. I want to do a community tank. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Joe McCorry >> A glass tank I take it? If there is not a whole bunch of scale (hard water deposits) a simple scrub (new) with some salt of all things will remove all gunk... If there is appreciable scale, put on your rubber gloves and sponge on a weak, dilute acid (like vinegar, aka acetic) outside of the house... and this will dissolve, loosen that. Rinse all else in freshwater... done. Bob Fenner Dirty tank Hello-- About a year ago, one of my classmates moved to another state, and could not bring his 29 gallon tank with him. I volunteered to take it. The problem is that my classmate did not keep very good care of the tank. Now, there is a big algae problem (which neither scraping nor algaecide will take care of) and a vast amount of I guess old food and waste. no matter how much I clean the tank, it remains very dingy-looking. It just looks horrible and is probably horrible for the fish. What do you advise I do? Thank you, Colin Foard >> Hmm, if it were I'd figure yes/no whether you really want to be a fish person... and if yes, do some investigating re the set-up itself... Sounds like you don't have a decent filter... and maybe could use some help devising a regular maintenance schedule (weekly, to biweekly water changes, gravel vacuuming, cleaning or switching out filter media...), and get going with a biological control program for the algae and mulm buildup... some live plant material would help a great deal... Take a read through the set-up and maintenance sections on our website for a good start. Home Page Be chatting, Bob Fenner Salt/Fresh water fish I own both a fresh water and a salt water tank. Someone recently told me that there were several breeds of fish that live in both. I don't put stock in this, but was curious as to if it is true? >> Hmm, well, these folks might be referring to brackish water organisms... including fishes and plants that can live in/tolerate variable and varying levels of salt content in their water... You know, Scats, Monos, some Puffers of the family Tetraodontidae, Targetfishes (Theraponidae), Archers... you can mix some of these with "equally matched" temperament fishes (e.g. Chromides let's say...) Or maybe they're talking about the sugar mixes making their way back into commercial markets, that profess an ability to mix fresh and true marine livestock... this is a very poor idea... and does not work out in any real length of time.... Thanks for giving me more impetus (the big boot) to getting more of my old articles, images, book sections on "Brackish" systems, livestock on our www.wetwebmedia.com site... These are really neat set-ups... one of my "top hits" at almost all public aquariums around the world. Bob Fenner I'm thinking about starting a saltwater aquarium. I've been successful with freshwater fish for many years now. What all do I need to start a good saltwater tank? >> Yikes, starting with and having a freshwater set-up is a good starting point... But there is MUCH to state here.... If it were me, I'd start gathering all sorts of input (from books, the Internet, my site: www.wetwebmedia.com, other hobbyists...) over what, how to put together, stock, maintain a marine system... and decide the type you want... Knowledge is requisite at this point. Bob Fenner
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