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FAQs about Oculinid/Galaxy Corals 1

Related Articles: Oculinids, Galaxy Corals

Related FAQs: Oculinids 2, & FAQs on: Oculinid Identification, Oculinid Behavior, Oculinid Compatibility, Oculinid Selection, Oculinid Systems, Oculinid Feeding, Oculinid Health, Oculinid Reproduction/Propagation,  & Stony/True Coral, Coral System Set-Up, Coral System Lighting, Stony Coral Identification, Stony Coral Selection, Coral PlacementFoods/Feeding/Nutrition, Disease/Health, Propagation, Growing Reef CoralsStony Coral Behavior,

Creature ID/FAQ Direction... Oculinid Resurrection! -11/25/07 Top of the morning WWM Crew, I have browsed the site looking for some assistance with an ID. I originally purchased 2 pieces of Live Rock that were barren at the time, and since they have literally sprouted with some interesting anemone looking creatures. The first two attached are of the darker rock, upon which 15-20 tiny purple based with greenish tip organisms have appeared. They do not appear to have mouths like an anemone would, but they seem to be of the same consistency based on how they move with the water flow in the tank. The second set of pictures of are the lighter rock. I was unable to snap a picture of the backside of this rock, but many completely clear more pointed organisms are starting to emerge out of these 'chambers'. Any assistance would be appreciated, I would like to read more about these organisms, get up to speed on whats in the tank! <Haha, that's not just live rock my friend, that's coral! Apparently, whoever sold it to you thought the coral was dead and so sold it to you as "rock." But the coral (a Galaxea sp. from the looks of it) is now coming back (and spectacularly so). Congratulations! :)> Happy Holidays, -j <Gracias, y tu tambien, Sara M.>

Re: Creature ID/FAQ Direction -11/25/07 Ahhh Excellent! Thanks so much for your assistance I will read up ASAP. I did not think my 2-t8 32 watt bulbs would be sufficient to foster coral growth (55 gal tank) <Well, actually, Galaxea sp. don't need much light.> But they seem to be multiplying rapidly! <It's pleasantly surprising to me too. Especially since, if it was sold as live rock, there must not have been much more than a few bits of live tissue left. We know that, theoretically, corals can come back from even just a tiny "drop" of live tissue. But it's exciting to see it actually happen (especially when you're not even trying or don't even know it's there! lol). May I ask, what do you feed the tank? It might be helpful for people attempting to revive such dying corals to know more about your system. And please don't be shy... if your nitrates are through the roof or something, please share anyway. It's always interesting, when someone has this kind of great, unexpected success, to know all about the conditions under which it happened. :)> Diligent research incoming, thanks again! -j <Very good, but before you think about changing anything, please keep in mind that whatever you've been doing, it's been working for this coral. Best, Sara M.>

Re: Creature ID/FAQ Direction  11/26/07 Haha! Yes, I found both pieces in a live rock bin at a LFS, walked out with both for under $20. The darker rock has propagated quite a bit in the short amount of time it has been in the tank (1 week). The lighter rock is beginning to sprout the clear organisms I spoke about. Is the lighter rock a Galaxea Coral as well? <Well, it was at one time. It's hard to say if there's anything living left on it. I'm sorry I was unable to see the "clear organisms" you were referring too. It *could* be bleached out coral tissue. But I honestly don't know without a better picture (and preferably with the unknown thing circled).> Nothing to be ashamed about, I'll post the stats. I also attached a picture of the tank. I don't see anything out of the ordinary with my setup, is it normally difficult to "revive" these type of corals? <In my experience, it can be a difficult thing to do when you're deliberately trying to do it. But, as you can see (and as has happened to me too), sometimes they just come back without much aquarist effort at all. Corals are just weird that way sometimes (or they seem so because of how little we really understand about them).> 55 gal 2 t8 32 watt bulbs (actinic and full spectrum) Fluval canister filter with activated carbon. 3 Maxi-Jet 1200 Powerheads Inhabitants - O. Niger Trigger, Maroon Clown, Longnose Butterfly. Assorted Hermits and Snails. Cleaner Shrimp. Tank parameters Gravity - 1.023 PH - 8.3 Ammonia - 0 Nitrite - 0 Nitrate - 0 Temp - 78 <Your salinity and temp are a little low (1.025 and 80-82F would be better). But like I said, whatever you're doing is working so I wouldn't change anything too quickly.> I feed defrosted Mysis shrimp once daily soaked in Selcon. <Hmmm... maybe the Selcon is helping? The strong water flow certainly doesn't hurt.> I was not planning on changing anything (if its not broke....) but I was curious if I needed to supplement feedings/care requirements of the coral. Will research the FAQs. -j <Here are some links to help you out: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/oculinidae.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/galaxycfaqs.htm http://wetwebfotos.com/Home?actionRequest=articleView&articleID=299 http://www.asira.org/galaxea They're actually not considered "easy" corals to keep. They feed on small particle food and, when healthy, can be extremely aggressive. If/as this coral continues to grow/thrive, it will probably need to be feed more and maybe given some space. But as they say in AA... best to take it "one day at a time." :-) Good luck and thank you for sharing about your coral/system, Sara M.>

Copper treatment and Ammonia dilution; Galaxea problem - 07/16/07 Hi Crew, <Hi.> I am treating my fish for ick with a product called CopperSafe <good>. My clown goby that looked real bad has cleared up and is eating, my spotted cardinal did not seem to have it, but he stopped eating, but now is eating and my royal Gramma had it, but did not seem too bad, but he died. I tested the water for ammonia and it is at least 1. <Yikes, I hope you are treating your fish in a tank without live rock/sand and invertebrates. CopperSafe is a chelated copper product. While easier to handle than ionic copper, it is still best to monitor the chelated copper level with an adequate test kit.> I am using a product called AmmoLock for ammonia and the fish seem ok. I am also making a 30% water change. Should I make more drastic water changes? <Not a fan of this and similar products in that case. While it may not hurt, I'd rather rely on large water changes to keep the ammonia down and additionally remove free stages of the parasites. Be sure to measure ammonia at least daily and act accordingly.> I got a Galaxea, see pictures (550 is current and 531 is as it was 2 weeks ago) and it is not doing well. It is in a 10 gallon with 65w pc. Does it need special feeding or more light? <<RMF lost pix...>> <Ensure the water quality is good at any time. Nitrates can be around 5, but temperature, salinity and pH should not change too much. Your lighting should be sufficient, but the small water volume might go through severe daily changes. Check that. Try feeding it just like other LPS corals. Give it some time. If its condition does not improve, it might do better in another tank. Beware this coral is quite aggressive and can sting animals almost one foot away. See http://www.wetwebmedia.com/oculinidae.htm and the linked FAQs.> I cannot find much info about it. I got it as a package deal and had no choice. I also got a very large Fungia but gave it away. Should I do the same for the Galaxea? Thanks. <Welcome and good luck with your treatment. Marco.>

Galaxea VS. Tridacnid  1/8/06 Hey! <…is for horses. Just kidding, couldn't resist. Hello.> I recently received a Galaxea (Oculinid) as a package deal on a piece of live rock with a clam (T. Maxima, gorgeous). <Oh yes.> They are both attached to the same large piece of rock. They are both currently doing fine. But, I was surprised the first time the Galaxea busted out with its sweepers. Those are long sweeps! <Oh yeah, have seen them personally at 10 to 12 inches. And very potent I might add.> Anyway, they are not touching the clam at this point, but if the coral continues to do well I am concerned that it might touch the clam in the future. Will the clam be affected? <Generally the sweepers are extended at night when the clam is closed so it should not be too much of a problem. However yes if the sweepers do come in contact with the clam (the mantle most likely) this could cause some mantle recession, which yes is very bad for a clam which needs the mantle for photosynthesis. Keep an eye out.> Do these kids need to be sent to different areas of the classroom? <Maybe, just keep a close watch as I mentioned.> Thanks for your help and for fighting the good fight! <Thank you for the encouragement.> Andy <Adam J.>

Coral Aggression: Galaxea 1/7/04 Brant here again, <cheers> I really appreciate having such an informative site.  I wanted to  mention in reference to my last e-mail about white band that I also got  a Galaxea at the same time.  I placed it on the top of a rock in the  center of the aquarium with some distance between corals.   <grumble, grumble... would rather have heard it was placed properly in a QT tank first for 4+ weeks. We might not be having this exchange if so <G>> The Stylophora  is only 3-4 inches away and is somewhat 'downstream' from the Galaxea.    <Yikes! The Stylo is soon to be Galaxy coral food> I've read a lot about sweeper tentacles <eventually 10" long from Galaxea... they are one of the worst> and was wondering if this had anything  to do with my Stylophora problem.   <very easily so> My salt level is low also, at about  1.019. <do get this up to 1.023-1.025 for corals> Besides the Stylophora problem, I was wondering if I could/should place my  Galaxea directly on the floor of the tank at the farthest distance from everything else?   <perhaps... they are one of the most aggressive corals in the trade> Your help is greatly appreciated. Sincerely, Chris Brant <best of luck, Anthony>
 

Galaxea Coral Hi <Hi Gaurav> I have a question regarding a tooth coral, Galaxea coral. I have one that is more than 12 inches in diameter. it is getting too big for my aquarium so I am thinking about fragging it. but I have never fragged a LPS hard coral before so I need some suggestions on how to do it. <I think fragging your coral is a wonderful idea. I'd like to suggest you use Anthony Calfo's "Book of Coral Propagation" as a reference and there are some wonderful websites that deal specifically with coral fragmentation.  WWW.fragexchange.com is one that immediately comes to mind> or do you have any better idea of what I should do about it. I have included a few pictures of it for reference. thanks for any suggestions you can give me. <If I may quote Anthony, "Galaxeas are fused colonies of individual, tubular corallites. Each cylinder crowned with a polyp can theoretically live on its own when separated. Coral farmers take colonies of Galaxea and rip paths between the corallites with an electric saw. Wire saw blades work well for this approach.. . . Propagated divisions laid on their side or against hard surfaces will quickly encrust and continue to grow.>  <I also know people who use a Dremel and do it on a lesser level. Good luck, Gaurav, I do encourage you to document what you do and post it on one of the websites. MacL> Gaurav

Galaxea Coral Question Mr. Fenner, Hopefully you can shed some light on this. I have a Galaxea coral that has been in my 75 gallon reef tank for several months, doing quite well. Over the last couple of weeks, it has started showing a light brown (or tan) "ridge" running through it. It starts at about the center of the coral and runs up and to the right. <Neat> I've attached a picture of the coral. <Hmm, looks like "another organism" to me... something that is living in/on this Oculinid colony opening up/coming out at night to feed along with this Galaxeas polyps... sort of like "Bisma Rock", duster worms and the Porites they ofttimes inhabit... Many such examples as you might presume, given such an ample substrate source. Bob Fenner, who wouldn't worry about this.> Thanks for any information you can provide!!! Mike
 

My galaxy coral  Hello, I just found this site and I love it. I have heard (read) your  name before. Aren't you kinda famous? <Ha! You're making my day> anyway, thank you for supplying yourself for questions. I have one for you. I have a Galaxy coral that I got as 6 little sticks about the size of cigarettes, I epoxied them together on a piece of liverock in my 35 gal. reef. there they started to grow quite well and the mantel covered over the epoxy. that was about a year and a half ago. Then I broke down my 55 gal freshwater tank and converted it over to a reef tank with a sump and all that stuff. then after it cycled I moved everything into it from the 35 gal. tank about 6 months ago. now lately I have noticed on my galaxy coral that the center of the galaxy coral is disappearing. do you know any reason why this might be happening. the Galaxy coral is still growing slowly outward as the center disappears. I hope I'm not going to lose it. All my tank readings are clean and calcium is at 410. any suggestions I would appreciate <Thank you for writing... A few things could be amiss here. I would first check on the age of your lighting/lamps... it may be that they're "getting old"... should be cycled out every six months or so (depending on the format, hours used per day...), and next your alkalinity... Your calcium et al. can be fine, but without adequate alkaline reserve your biomineralizing livestock will falter... I do doubt if you have a predator at play here, due to the origin of the "whiting out" spot... however, if the light, alkalinity possibilities don't help, I'd move the specimen up in your water column toward more light and better circulation conditions.> Thank you, Mike Lewis <Bob Fenner>

My galaxy coral Hello, I have to say thank you again for helping me. I dose Kalkwasser and I also have been adding Kent Marine supper buffer dKH, could the supper buffer be doing it. I also add Kent Iodine, Strontium, Iron, Calcium, Coral-Vite as a mix once a week. what am I doing wrong. thank you. Mike Lewis <Yikes... too much mixing of various alkaline and biomineral agents... Yes to choosing EITHER the Kalk OR the Calcium product... and do leave out the "Vite" for a good while... Do look into the Baensch Marine Atlas v.1 for a thorough going over of the basics of water chemistry... you want to fashion or purchase a calcium reactor going forward, believe me... Bob Fenner>

Re: My galaxy coral Hello again, thank you for answering so quickly, I had to buy a alkalinity test kit and it reads 5.7 meq/L or 286.4 ppm I know that is a little high, could it be the cause of the "whiting out" spot. bye the way do you remember my last e-mail. thank you again, Mike Lewis <Ah, yes... or more specifically, the "whiting out" is likely caused by whatever it is that you're doing that is resulting in the high alkalinity reading... Do you mix supplements? Time to limit yourself to just one either "all-in-one" alkalinity and biomineral product or just one "two part" product. Bob Fenner>  Hello, I just found this site and I love it. I have heard (read) your  name before. Aren't you kinda famous? <Ha! You're making my day> anyway, thank you for supplying yourself for questions. I have one for you. I have a Galaxy coral that I got as 6 little sticks about the size of cigarettes, I epoxied them together on a piece of live rock in my 35 gal. reef. there they started to grow quite well and the mantel covered over the epoxy. that was about a year and a half ago. Then I broke down my 55 gal freshwater tank and converted it over to a reef tank with a sump and all that stuff. then after it cycled I moved everything into it from the 35 gal. tank about 6 months ago. now lately I have noticed on my galaxy coral that the center of the galaxy coral is disappearing. do you know any reason why this might be happening. the Galaxy coral is still growing slowly outward as the center disappears. I hope I'm not going to lose it. All my tank readings are clean and calcium is at 410. any suggestions I would appreciate <Thank you for writing... A few things could be amiss here. I would first check on the age of your lighting/lamps... it may be that they're "getting old"... should be cycled out every six months or so (depending on the format, hours used per day...), and next your alkalinity... Your calcium et al. can be fine, but without adequate alkaline reserve your biomineralizing livestock will falter... I do doubt if you have a predator at play here, due to the origin of the "whiting out" spot... however, if the light, alkalinity possibilities don't help, I'd move the specimen up in your water column toward more light and better circulation conditions.>  Thank you, Mike Lewis <Bob Fenner>

Galaxy coral I just wanted to let you know, that awhile back I e-mailed you about my galaxy coral. it was dying off. you said I was adding to many additives. that was about 6 months or so ago. after your advise, it has all grown over the dead spots and is still growing. <Thanks for the follow-up, congratulations. Bob Fenner> Thank You, Mike Lewis

Galaxea sp. Coral Anybody ever been successful fragging these corals. I have one that is fast approaching the size of a soccer ball in my 92 gal office tank and I would like to frag it. I know quite a few years back Albert did a demonstration fragging certain LPS and I think it involved a Dremel. Any thoughts or suggestions? Anybody near Madison, WI want to help? -Howard >> Oculinids (family containing genus Galaxea) can/are divided with hand tools... for asexual, commercial "fragging"... We use a lowered spg. iodine and hexose sugar dip immediately afterward... Dick Perrin's/Tropicorium got the biggest run of these going... about four species, one, two year classes. Bob Fenner, in sunny southern cal.

Galaxy Coral Hi Bob, Hope all is well. I picked up a Galaxy coral for my 55 reef yesterday at a "scratch and dent sale" at my LFS. He is opening well but does have a few spots that look like damage during shipping. It looks like the stony base may have 2 or 3 spots that are damaged where there are no tentacles. Will this grow back under good conditions? Are they able to regenerate some lost tissue? If one area is damaged will the whole animal die? As always, thank you for you help., Andrew >> Really like the Galaxeas (family Oculinidae)... though they are "real stingers" (keep a good space between it and other cnidarians)... And yes, under propitious circumstances the animal will overgrow bare spots... and get bigger all the way around. Bob Fenner

Galaxy Coral Hi Bob, Hope all is well. What is you opinion on the Galaxy coral. I can not find much printed on this coral. Is it a LPS? I know they have powerful sweeper tentacles and need room because of but I am not sure on their hardiness. One book I have says they are on a scale of 1-10 an 8 which would be very difficult to keep. The book says, however, this is do to shipping problems. Are they hard to keep? Less hardy than Euphyllia species? I see them a lot locally and want to know if they are a good long-term choice for my 55 Gallon Reef. I have a modified Berlin setup with LPS and soft corals in my tank with VHO lighting. >> One of my favorite genera of stony corals (family Oculinidae), and I consider them LPS'... As you say, most losses of Galaxea can be traced to tissue damage through the transport process... Once you get one in good shape, they are hardy animals, generally thriving in well lit, medium to low circulation conditions... The only proviso I'd like to add is to provide a large space around them and other sedentary invertebrate life... their stinging sweeper tentacles can/do reach out several inches. The genus is easily reproduced through fragmentation.... A friend, Dick Perrin of Tropicorium, has hundreds of colonies of a few species that he regularly re-divides. Bob Fenner



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