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Yellow Canary Wrasse and Royal Gramma?
2/16/19 Established H. melanurus and new H. melasmapomus; stkg., comp.
9/14/18
A three-part stocking change up- and saving some Hermits lives?
1/21/16
Banana wrasse Butler (and missing Hermits); w/ a nod to Peter, Paul &
Mary 9/23/15
saltwater compatibility question; Labrids
8/5/15
Re: Quarantine question; now Halichoeres comp.
6/21/15 Melanurus wrasses killers?
2/17/15
Wrasses. Mixing Halichoeres
8/29/14 Wrasse<s> Compatibility 1/2/14 Red/ brown flatworm problem 2/11/13 H. Cosmetus and H. Iridis, Halichoeres comp. Wrasses and Gobies, comp.
5/30/12 Lysmata wurdemanni's killer/Shrimp
Compatibility 1/24/12 Banana Wrasse Compatibility
10/28/11 Halichoeres claudia with Halichoeres
cosmetus -- Problems! -- 06/26/11 best mail order place... SW lvstk., mixing
Halichoeres and clnr shrimp 2/10/11 Wrasse Compatibility 1/29/10 Halichoeres chrysus Halichoeres melanurus
compatibility -- 01/17/10 Question on Halichoeres ornatissimus behavior...
Comp. 1/7/10 Re: Question on Halichoeres ornatissimus behavior
-- 01/28/09 Reef Compatibility (Halichoeres hortulanus) -- 10/16/08 Hello WWM, <<Hiya Steve>> I've looked through your site looking for some info on Halichoeres hortulanus (Checkerboard wrasse) and have found some interesting things about this species. <<Indeed>> However, I have some specific questions that I need answers to. <<Okay'¦will try>> First, will this wrasse eat my Tridacna clam, or my skunk cleaner shrimp? <<I've kept some of the smaller species from this genus with no problems re. This species does get moderately large (to about 12'), but even so I don't think the clam is in danger though if the wrasse is or gets large and/or doesn't recognize the shrimp as a facultative cleaner organism then it may well be in jeopardy>> I also have frogspawn, hammer coral, tongue coral, 2 leathers, mushrooms, Kenya tree, pumping xenia, several varieties of snails and hermit crabs, and a bubble tip anemone. <<The snails and hermit crabs could also fall prey to this wrasse, especially as it gets larger>> So far everybody is behaving quite nicely. Will I upset the apple cart by putting this fellow into this tank? <<Likely not at first with a small specimen (around 4' or less)'¦but as it grows the crustaceans and gastropods will probably be preyed upon'¦as will any fishes small enough to eat>> I know there never is a sure thing, but a little advice would be helpful. <<True'¦and I hope mine has been. Do consider a 'safer' choice here from this genus might be H. chrysus or H. ornatissimus>> Regards, Steve Harris <<Cheers, Eric Russell>> Lightning Wrasse - Halichoeres cyanocephalus 04/01/2008 Hello, <<Hello, Andrew today>> I have a question about a Halichoeres cyanocephalus. I just picked one up at a LFS, beautiful fish. <<Indeed>> I really normally research everything that goes into my tank but I really didn't want to pass this one up and took the LFS's word. LFS said that the max size was 6-7 inches and is reef safe. I did some research afterwards and there is a lot of conflicting information about this fish. Some sites say max size is 12", some say 5". <<Average about 5 - 6 inches>> Some say reef safe. Some say not. I found some mention on this site that said max size is 6". Could you shed any light on this? Would appreciate any info. He will soon be in a 90 gal. Right now he is in with a Filamented Flasher and a Yellow Wrasse. So far so good.... <<Deemed reef safe. More reading / info found here http://64.95.130.5/Summary/SpeciesSummary.php?id=3662 >> BTW, here is a pic... <<A lovely photo, thank you for sharing. Hope this helps. A Nixon>> <Andrew... you've got to move the graphics... RMF> Formosa Coris Wrasse with Thalassoma Lutescens Wrasse Compatibility 2/29/08 Hello - great site as usual. <Thanks and hello Jeff> Here's my question. I have a 150XH tank - fish only. I have a nice sized (6 ½") male lutescens wrasse (Thalassoma lutescens). <A Banana Wrasse.> I've also got a 5" Dragon Wrasse. One of my local stores has a beautiful 6" Formosa Wrasse that I'd like. What I'd like to do is trade in the dragon wrasse for the Formosa. I know the Formosa can get big and I'd find him a better him <home> if and when he outgrows the tank, but wondering how the Formosa and the Lutescens would get along. The lutescens and the dragon get along just fine. Curious as to your thoughts? I'd get the Formosa (tomorrow) if it would work. <Well, they are both aggressive, and there is a chance the Banana Wrasse will harass the newcomer, but in a tank your size, this should be minimal providing there are plenty of retreats. I'd give it a shot. Do read here for more info. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/fishes/wrasses/Coris/index.htm> Thanks <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)> J H. melanurus wrasse... comp. w/ Lion -12/22/2007 Greetings from the blustery Midwest, I have an 85g corner aquarium set up as FOWLR with 6" DSB, 100lbs LR, Berlin Skimmer. Current occupants are Volitans lionfish, Snowflake eel, serpent star, large 4 striped Damsel that may become lunch for the lionfish in time. I am looking to add one more fish...something to add a little color, that's big enough not to get eaten by the Lionfish, small enough for the tank, and passive enough not to nip at the lionfish fins. LFS has 5" h. melanurus wrasse that caught my eye and having read through a number of FAQ on compatibilities of my current occupants and this wrasse, it seems like it could be made to work. I do understand that the wrasses like to eat pods and I do not have a current source (refugium) to generate these and I am not sure if this will be an issue. In your experience will this wrasse fit in this system. Will the lack of pods be detrimental to health of wrasse? Thanks, Russell Furst <Might be a good choice here temperamentally, color and behavior-wise... Doesn't take much of a size lion to inhale a Halichoeres though. Bob Fenner> Redheaded Wrasse Has Scott F. Green With Envy! -- 11/17/07 Hi, <Hey there! Scott F. with you today!> I have questions about Halichoeres rubricephalus. <I have one, too! Where did you find this fish? I've been looking for it for years with no luck! I'm Jealous! Wow!> The green fish with a red head. Is this fish known to nip on corals? <Typically, fish of this genus eat small crustaceans. I have kept many members of this family without any coral-nipping whatsoever. I am unaware of any Halichoeres species including coral polyps in its diet. Obviously, fish are individuals, so anything is possible, but I think it highly unlikely.> Is this fish aggressive towards other fish? I mean, does the fish nip on other fishes' tails? <All Halichoeres can be a bit feisty with members of their own genus, but based on my experience with other species in the genus, it should be compatible with other wrasse species if plenty of hiding places are available. This is one of the smaller members of the genus, so do think about this in your stocking scheme.> I have a Mystery Wrasse, a Laboutei Fairy Wrasse and a Flame Hawk in my tank which is about 80 gallon. I don't have any shrimps or other invertebrate in my tank. Thank you, Ferdinand. <Well Ferdinand, I think that this should be an acceptable mix if you've got the rockwork for each fish to establish territories and to retreat to if things get too crazy. Best of luck with this fish- do let me know how it works out for you! Regards, Scott F.> Question about Ornate Wrasse and cleaner shrimp 8/26/07 I have heard so many different stories about how the Ornate Wrasse and cleaner shrimp either get along or don't. I have just added 2 skunk cleaner shrimp to my 90g tank after being in their own quarantine for 3 weeks. The other fish that I have are all still in quarantine and all are peaceful fish that I KNOW won't attack cleaner shrimp. Now, I purchased the Ornate wrasse a bit ago and he's been in quarantine with the others and is getting along great. But I've heard from my own LFS that they either are fine with cleaners or might "sample" them. <This is a valid statement... re the genus Halichoeres and Lysmata (and even some Stenopids) in general> Is there a real authoritative take on this? <Mmm, well... would you define "authoritative"? These species are found within the same geographical range... in Hawai'i for instance... and generally do "get along"... but if the Labrid is large/r, hungry... it might go after an impugned shrimp... particularly one that is undergoing ecdysis/molting> I would assume not simply because the information I've found everywhere has pretty much said it's a toss-up. As always, you guys give me the best info so I'm coming for help yet again! <I'd toss more toward the end of them getting along... particularly if there's room, decor to hide amongst, good feeding/maintenance> Also, if there really is an "authoritative" view on this and the wrasse will eat my shrimp if not fed well, is there a preventative measure for this or something I could feed the wrasse to take his mind off the shrimp? <This latter> I would assume he'd only go after the shrimp if he was a very hungry fish at the time, but again -- I bring the questions to you guys. Thanks a ton -- you've made my relatively short venture into the hobby a much easier time than I would have ever had otherwise. - Jonathan <Don't hold too long or dear for absolutes in this very relative universe Jon... You'll only waste time and make yourself unhappy. Bob Fenner> Re: Question about Ornate Wrasse and cleaner shrimp -- 08/26/07 Thanks a lot, Bob, for the quick response on this and giving me more confidence in the matter between the two species. <Ah, good> I have a ton of hiding places in the tank for the fish from the various caves and caverns I've made to some PVC pipe that I've hidden around the tank, so after reading what you wrote to me I think the Skunk Cleaner and Ornate Wrasse should be able to co-exist. Thanks for the bit of a confidence booster as I didn't want to remove the wrasse since it's of absolutely gorgeous coloration and I don't want to lose my cleaner shrimp, either! I'll keep a watchful eye out if I find an exoskeleton if I can even find the shrimp when it's molting (though I'd think not finding it for a day or two might actually be better as that'd mean it found it's hiding spot!). Also, right now, the wrasse is about 2.5-3 inches long and the shrimp are both around 2.5 inches long. <Good...> I've heard Ornate's can grow up to around 7 inches so I'm hoping he doesn't reach the full span but a bit shorter. Thanks again! - Jonathan <Sounds good. BobF> Flashing clownfish and wrasse with attitude 4/15/07 Greetings aquarium gurus! <Daniel> A quick question for you today. I have a 100 gal reef that contains: 2 saddleback clownfish 1 Valentini Puffer (well behaved) 1 bicolor blenny 1 Talbot's damsel 1 pinstripe wrasse (Halichoeres melanurus) 1 Longnosed Hawkfish 2 golden wrasses 5 Chromis LPS and soft corals. Ammonia=0, Nitrite=0, pH=8.3, Nitrate=unknown (dodgy test kit, needs replacing). Temp and salinity also ok. I take a lot of pride in the appearance of the tank so take a lot of care to keep it well maintained. Weekly maintenance includes 10% water changes and changing of filter media etc. The last few days the clowns have been flashing themselves fairly regularly on the substrate (fine aragonite sand) and some new Zoanthids I've added to the tank. The clowns' colouration is fine and they are eating well. All other fish also seem ok, no signs of disease at all. They also don't seem to flash at night at all, only when the lights are on. I am wondering what could be causing the flashing. Do you think it's environmentally caused/disease? or could it just be part of their natural behaviour? <Is this latter... likely leading to mating, reproduction...> The only new fish to be added are some of the Chromis, but they were quarantined for 2 weeks and still aren't showing any signs of disease. Oh and one more thing. The pinstripe wrasse does not seem to like the new golden wrasses and chases them whenever he comes near them, forcing them to bury themselves in the sand. Is this likely to continue? <Mmm, likely so to a degree... these species are space/habitat competitors...> I was under the impression that pinstripe wrasses were peaceful and could be kept with other wrasses. I will probably rearrange the rock work if it doesn't improve over the next week, maybe remove the older wrasse and isolate him for a while to think about his behaviour. Thanks! Best website EVER! Dan in Sydney, Australia. <Thank you for helping make it so! Bob Fenner> Halichoeres melanurus and Halichoeres hortulanus 3/21/07 WWM Staff first of all I want to thank you on the wonderful and hard work you do here on a daily basis. My question today comes to in regards to Halichoeres Melanurus and Halichoeres Hortulanus, can they live together? <Mmm, yes> My tank is about 115G (90G Disp+20G Sump+5G Refugium) mixed reef (LPS/Softies dominated with an SPS hint) which is inhabited by 3 wrasses (there are more fish but my main concern are the wrasses) 1 Halichoeres Melanurus (3.5"), 1 Cirrhilabrus Scottorum (4.5") and 1 Pseudocheilinus Hexataenia (2"); the Halichoeres Hortulanus (2.75") is QT'd and ready to go in, I have done lots of research and can't find anywhere that says that those two can't get along together. <Most members, specimens of the genus Halichoeres get along...> In the next 3-4 weeks I'll be moving to a new 120G tank if that helps any in answering my question. Keep in mind that the other 3 wrasses being together for a while and other than the occasional I'm the King quick chase there is no other sign of aggression, I understand like everything else the newbie will be chased and tail whipped for the first few weeks until he learns to respect territories and boundaries. <Ah, yes> I'm imagining that it would work like Tangs when you put more than one Acanthurus species together or more than one Zebrasoma species together they will tail whip each other until they show who is boss and who runs the show (pecking order). Regards, Rafael A. Saavedra (Member of the Washington D.C. Area Marine Aquarist Society (www.WAMAS.org)) Rockville, MD <Much less than with the Acanthurids... thank goodness. Cheers, Bob Fenner> Would a Halichoeres ornatissimus eat my cleaner shrimps? 3/14/07 <<Is a possibility with a large individual (can reach 8" in the wild), but I think it unlikely. H. ornatissimus feeds mainly on bottom-dwelling crustaceans and mollusks in the wild. Though slightly smaller as adults, I've housed H. chrysus with a couple Lysmata species with no problems. Keeping the fishes in your care well/properly fed can also reduce such risks. EricR>> Halichoeres melasmapomus comp. 12/2/06 Hi, <Good evening Dave, Michelle here.> I would just like to thank you all for your great help in the past. <Glad you have found WWM helpful. Thank you for your kind words.> I was wondering if a Halichoeres melasmapomus would attack hermits, sally lightfoot crabs, cleaner shrimp more so than other Halichoeres species and if it really gets up to ten inches? <I'm not sure if it would be more or less likely than others in the same genus, but in general this genus will eat small snails, ornamental shrimp, and several types of worms. And yes, it really does get up to ten inches.> Also do Pseudanthias bimaculatus require and additional husbandry compared to other Anthias, I have heard mixed opinions? <They are a challenging deep water species which require low level lighting and passive tankmates. Please read here: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2005/8/fish and here http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-04/ac/index.php> Thank you so much for your help. <You are welcome. Mich> - Dave Puddingwife Wrasse...Snail/crab compatibility 9-19-06 What up WWM Crew? < A preposition for a direction. Just kidding, howdy! > I've put a deposit down on a juvenile Puddingwife Wrasse so that I could do some more research on them...he was cool looking/interesting in the store. < Beautiful fish. Research ids always good, I could use some myself! > I've found that he will one day be too big for my aquarium, but am willing to deal with that problem when it arrives. < Spoken like a good foster parent. > I've read that they eat mollusks/sea urchins in the wild...that being kind of a broad statement, do you think that my snails and hermit crabs will be in danger from this guy? < Oh, yes. One of their favorite things to do is to pick up the snails/hermit crabs, and beat them on the rocks until the good stuff comes out. Horribly entertaining, but very taxing on your clean-up crew. > Also, are these fish generally wild caught or farm raised? Just curious. < Wild caught, but captive breeding is being worked on daily. > Thanks again, Brad < Good luck! RichardB > Wrasse Compatibility - 06/02/2006 I have a 75 gallon tank that has been cycling for 6 months with 4 blue reef Chromis. I just added an adult Coris gaimard to the tank and from that point on I was simply amazed at the beauty that these fish possess. <A gorgeous fish indeed.> They just beat out tangs as my favorite fish in the sea. I was wondering however if it would be ok to mix this Coris gaimard with a Halichoeres ornatissimus? And also how these fish would be with inverts (cleaner shrimp) and soft corals? <Dave, an adult Coris is an aggressive fish while the Ornate or Christmas Wrasse is rather docile. Would be a gamble. Both are not safe with ornamental shrimp and most inverts including Fanworms, small hermits, and snails. The Coris is not safe with corals while the Ornate Wrasse reportedly is. Keep in mind that wrasses do need a fine sand bed in which to burrow. Thanks! <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Dave Cleaner Shrimp Compatibility 6/2/06 Bob, <Jonathan> I have a 72 Gallon FOWLR tank set up. The current stock is a juvenile hippo tang, a pair of clowns, a punctatum butterfly, and a pinstripe wrasse. I was just wondering how a pair of skunk cleaner shrimps would do in this tank? <Likely fine> My main concern is the wrasse. <Mmm... is this Halichoeres melanurus?> I have done some research and found that most wrasses must be monitored with shrimp. So, I am just looking for some guidance before going out and spending $40 on what could potentially end up being as an feeding session for my fish. Thanks, Jon. <Likely this fish will recognize the cleaners for what they are and leave them alone. If you have sufficient rock for them to hide, I would not be concerned here. Bob Fenner> Checkerboard wrasse? 7/7/05 Hello, just have a quick question. I have the opportunity to purchase a checkerboard wrasse, I was wondering if it was reef safe, mostly coral and clam safe. < Yep, sounds safe to me. It may pick at some small inverts but overall a very safe fish. > The wrasse is 4 inches long right now and would be goin into a 135 gallon with 150 pounds of live rock. are they finicky feeders? < I don't believe so. Having lots of quality live rock will certainly help, and really any balanced foods will be fine. > and I have a 2 inch six line will this be a problem? < Should not be a problem in a tank that size. > I understand the wrasse gets to 12 " and I'm under stocked on fish right now. < So far I think you would be fine. If it ever gets that big you can get rid of it later, but that would be years down the road. > <<I'd rate Halichoeres wrasses as "medium" in the reef safe category... RMF>> thanks a lot Tristan < Blundell > Wrestling With A Wrasse! 9/22/05 I am considering getting a Radiant Wrasse to combat a problem with the Montipora Nudibranchs. I've heard many reports of great success with these wrasses, and they are gorgeous fish. <Yes they are! I love Halichoeres species, and the H. iridis is one of my very favorites! They are a bit touchy, however, and I have known several people who have not been as lucky as I while acclimating them. Take it really slow and be sure to quarantine them carefully.> Only thing is, I worry about my cleaner shrimp (2) and my jumbo Tongan Nassarius snails in particular, and the other snails and hermit crabs in general. What is your experience with these fish and their behavior towards these animals? Thanks, Joel <Well, Joel, these guys have relatively small mouths, but they can and do pick on small snails. In fact, I've had other Halichoeres wrasses (H. melanurus, in particular) that have taken an almost sadistic dislike of snails, literally bashing them out of their shells before dispatching them! Generally, these guys are well behaved, but smaller shrimp, Fanworms, and snails are potential snack items if the fish feels so inclined! I certainly feel that the potential risk is worth it for their utility and sheer beauty, but you'll have to make the final call. Good luck with this wonderful fish! Regards, Scott F.> Tailspot wrasse ?????? hey bob, can we consider the Tailspot wrasse ( Halichoeres melanurus) reef safe, as far as coral, hermit crabs and snails ? <Hmm, not absolutely... I'd say it's somewhere between 30-40% likely reef safe. Bob Fenner> I cant find very good info anywhere on it. Thanks again Rob Huss <The HUGE genus Halichoeres has very little written about it in the aquarium interest. Have you seen the coverage on our site: http://wetwebmedia.com/halichoeres.htm Bob Fenner> Question about Halichoeres wrasses I have a well-established h. ornatissimus in a 180 gallon reef. Can another Halichoeres sp. be added to the same tank? Specifically, I am looking at a H. iridis. Thanks for your time Brian Daniell <Yes, and thanks for writing. This speciose genus of Wrasses are often found in "more than one" associations in the wild... And Halichoeres iridis is one of the smaller, more gentle (some of the larger members of the genus get too big, rambunctious) to associate with the "Christmas Wrasse" (what a family, there are three "other" official Xmas Labrids!). Pix and more on the genus et al. stored on the site: www.wetwebmedia.com Bob Fenner> Yellow Coris Wrasse Bob, I recently purchased a yellow Coris wrasse, <Halichoeres chrysus: http://wetwebmedia.com/halichoeres.htm> whom I thought was a reasonably reef-safe fish. He doesn't seem too interested in the flake food I feed, or the pieces of shrimp or scallops that I feed the Lionfish every 3 days. But I just witnessed him tearing small snails off the rock and shaking them in his mouth, dropping them. Is this normal? <Yes> I have hundreds of snails (they reproduce once in a while in my tank - previous email...), but they are periodically sucked into the intakes, and I need as many of them as possible. (serious algae issues in this 300g tank) What to do? <Use other algae control methods... these are detailed on the WWM site> Also, I noticed earlier today the dreaded Aiptasia gaining a foothold - wished I had seen them earlier - would've waited to add the wrasse and put in Peppermint shrimp - or do you think they will be safe to add now that the wrasse is in there? <Worth the risk... but would likely try a Chelmon or other... oh, see you mention this below> I will read up on Aiptasia control, maybe a butterfly (copperband?) - though I have heard that if they are not weaned onto other foods - they soon will perish. I hate to buy a fish that I know is doomed, guy @ the LFS says he will get rid of all the Aiptasia, therefore doing the job I need him for, so what if he dies after that. I feel that is a very short-sided point of view, and told him I didn't agree with that type of philosophy! <Read about the Glass Anemones, their control on our site.> Anyway, thanks for letting me ramble - and as you say - "Be chatting my friend"! Mike Berrett <Indeed. Bob Fenner> Help with clownfish/wrasse Hi Bob, you have been tremendously helpful in the past. Thank you. If you have the time, please see if you can help me with the following questions: My set up: 30 gallons, 45 lbs premium Fiji live rock. Just bought a true Percula and am upgrading to a 92 gallon reef later this year. When I do, I want to add an anemone. Can you recommend a few that are will host the Percula and are relatively easy to find? <Please read through the many FAQs on Anemone selection, use posted on WWM starting here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/anemones.htm> In the meantime, while I'm in my 30 gallon, a friend suggested to get a pink tip because he has heard of them hosting the odd Percula. Have you ever heard of this? Also, could I add a saddleback clown with a tank (the 92 gallon) that already has a Percula? <I would NOT try this... please study... this is an a possibility fraught with danger> When I go to a reef set up, I know I have to get rid of my (small at the moment) red Coris wrasse. Do I have to get rid of my (also small) golden Coris wrasse too? <Not likely, this is a Halichoeres chrysus I'll assume> I currently have inverts (cleaner shrimp, assortment of crabs) and plan to add more in the reef set up. Are there any wrasses that are OK with inverts that I could put in a reef tank? Thanks again Bob. <Many. Please read through WetWebMedia.com Bob Fenner> Re: Multiple Halichoeres wrasses (marine livestocking) Hi, Bob, Thanks for the comments below; really appreciated. I know there is always a risk when introducing new fish to the tank but I hate to introduce something that is likely to cause to problems. <I feel the same way> Just wanted a little clarification. You thought my H. marginatus would likely be fine with a H. ornatissimus or a H. iridis. Since you actually said something to the effect that odds were they'd all do fine, do you think it wouldn't be too much risk to try all three? They are nice fish and seem reasonably hardy plus with they swim out a lot. <Should be fine. Do look for a "larger" (about same size to start with) iridis> My H. marginatus seems to be a feisty fish and held his own on introduction against a fairy wrasse (trapped and returned to the LFS) and a Pseudochromis sankeyi but my yellow "Coris" did not (the sankeyi pestered him) and the "Coris" had to be removed. Thanks to a cracked tank, I have a chance to reintroduce everything and given the fish interactions, I'm wondering how important it is to control fish reintroduction order. The P. sankeyi is going back to the store but I'd like to replace with several P. fridmani (I've read they will tolerate each other; rare for a Pseudo). <Not really... there's a huge spectrum of "compatibility" in the genus... especially tank-raised specimens tend to be easy-going> I have a P. asfur and a purple tang as well as a flame angel , Rainfordi goby and C. fisheri angel. My thoughts are to introduce the fridmani and Halichoeres wrasses simultaneously, followed by the tang and angels. My asfur is very shy though. Maybe it should go in first? <Not necessary> Do you think I could later add some fairy wrasses or would that be risky with the pseudos or the Halichoeres? The tank is 210G. The only other fish would be my 9 Chromis viridis and a clown pair. That's probably it for the fish stock in this tank. <Should be okay as well... though will hide more with the wrasses present> BTW we've talked about my maroon clown pair before- looks to me like they have mated and may be ready to spawn. They are a tad ornery but really aren't too bad to the other fish so I'm thinking of keeping them rather than getting a Perc pair. However, now is the time to remove them since I've never seen them swim into a trap. What do you think? Not too risky or asking for trouble later when they get even bigger? Thanks! Marc <Can be feisty indeed... will likely "rule the roost" for a good hundred gallons. Bob Fenner> Multiple Halichoeres wrasses Hi, Bob and company, <Hello Marc> Your Halichoeres faq suggests you can keep multiple Halichoeres but I'd like to double check before trying. How well do wrasses of this genus do with other members of the same genus that look similar? With others of the same species? <Better than members of the same species at times> I have a yellow "Coris" and a H. marginatus (I think: kind of dusky but with turquoise band on tail and darkish red/green/blue on the body; hard to match to your pics.) These two get along fine. I've recently "discovered" this genus after ignoring for years and am quite taken with them. Do you think I could add a H. ornatissimus or H. iridis safely to my 210G reef? <I give you very good odds that these will all do fine here. Bob Fenner> Thanks! Marc Wrasse Compatibility Hello; <<Hello, JasonC here...>> How are you today? <<I am well, so far... thanks for asking.>> I am thinking of getting a Golden Wrasse (Halichoeres chrysus) for my 30 gallon tank. <<Only 30 gallons? This fish would fit - they max out at about four inches - but that's a small system for a fish who will cover every inch.>> I also have a couple of peppermint shrimp, a cleaner shrimp and some feather dusters. Will the wrasse be okay with the shrimp, or will he eat them? <<Well, there is always that chance, but the odds are lower because the shrimp were there first. Still... if you miss a day or two of feeding, you might be missing a shrimp. I wouldn't put it past the wrasse to take a sample.>> I also have a refugium that I grow amphipods in, and if necessary, I could feed him the amphipods. <<Also a good source of food.>> Thanks for all your help in getting me going in the marine hobby. (It would have been a lot more difficult without your help.) <<Glad you find the site useful.>> Kevin <<Cheers, J -- >> Yellow wrasse (Halichoeres chrysus) compatibility Hello, <Hello> I'm considering adding a "Yellow Coris Wrasse" (Halichoeres chrysus) to my 75 gal. system. Current occupants are a Royal Gramma, Neon Goby, some hermits, Astrea and Nassarius snails. I eventually would like to add a Percula Clown, Longnose Hawk, and possibly a Flame Angel. Do you see any compatibility problems here? <It may eat your snails, even the hermit crabs if hungry> I'm particularly concerned if the similar shape and color between the Royal Gramma and wrasse might be an issue? <Not likely if they grow up together> Also, I have aragonite substrate. Is this soft/fine enough for the wrasse, or does it require "beach-like" sand? The Nassarius snails have no problem burying in it. <Should be no trouble> Thanks in advance for your response. John H. <Bob Fenner> Canary Wrasse Woes Bob (Steve), <Actually- Scott F. this morning!> Nice to talk to you again. I have had some fairly good success with my reef tank (thanks in part to your assistance). I now find myself in a rather interesting problem. All reports I have read, people I have talked to, and internet sites visited (including yours), list the Canary Wrasse as fish and reef safe. Until recently, I have never had any problems with mine. He (I am guessing sex based on the number of dorsal spots) has never seemed to be very aggressive at all, sticking close to my banded goby on most occasions. This morning I noticed him nipping at my star polyps and chasing my banded goby. Have you heard of or noticed this type of behavior before in a canary wrasse? Is it possible that this is as a result of finally feeling comfortable in the tank (he has now been in the tank for about a month), and being close to full size, trying to establish dominance in the tank? Short of replacing the wrasse with a smaller version or a different fish entirely, what do you suggest I do to tame this apparent growing menace? Sincerely, Mark <First Mark- forgive me for this if I'm mistaken, but by "Canary Wrasse", I'm assuming you are referring to Halichoeres chrysus? Assuming this is the fish, here's my take on the situation: These wrasses are not known to eat corals, but they do pick on tubeworms now and then. Also, they are known predators of flatworms and Pyramidellid snails, etc. Perhaps the fish was merely foraging for these prey items among the star polyps? Were the polyps actually damaged? Is he eating well, and have you been providing him with meaty foods? Finally, the chasing of other fish can sometimes be confused with the cleaning behaviour that these wrasses do engage in from time to time. My suggestion at this point (once again, assuming we're talking about the same species) is to observe him for a while longer to see if the undesirable behaviors persist. If he is truly nipping coral polyps and aggressively engaging your other fish, you may have to remove this individual to keep your aquarium a healthy, safe place for all of your specimens. Good Luck! Scott F.> Wrestling with Wrasses <Scott F. here with you this lovely evening> I am thinking of adding an Halichoeres chrysus or two to my 65 gallon reef tank to help control flatworms. <They are excellent wrasses. They are hardy and attractive and do well in small groups.> One of the fish I currently have is a P. fridmani. Will the canary wrasses be OK with this fish? Fred <Should be fine as long as there is enough rock work and shelter. Fridmani tend to be more secretive than these extraverted wrasses. These are great fishes, and I'm sure you'll enjoy them.> <Regards, Scott F.> Halichoeres chrysus and cleaner shrimp compatibility Hi Craig, <Hi Jun, Phew! Just now catching up on mail!> I actually have a couple of questions for you. First. Do you think a banana wrasse (Halichoeres chrysus) a cleaner shrimp killer/eater? <Hmmm, wouldn't chance it! Likely wouldn't be good.> Secondly, my purple tang is now ich free (he is still in QT, just finished copper treatment). He is now eating but had develop HLLE from poor water condition (Ammonia, nitrite both .25) due to QT not cycled. I was doing 25% water change daily and adding cycle to keep ammonia and nitrite down. Should I keep doing water changes in my QT? or should I just let the cycle to continue by adding cycle in QT (how often?). Can not catch my banana wrasse and bicolor blenny in my main tank (they didn't get the ich) so I was unable to run my main tank fallow. It's been 2 weeks that these 2 fish are ich free nor showing any symptoms. My question is, if I keep my purple tang in my 20 gal QT for 4 more weeks until he is really healthy, do you think that he's got the chance of fighting off ich once I reintroduce him in my main tank. I also heard that you can not really get rid of ich in a system (is this true?). Sorry, I got carried away and ask more than a couple of questions. Thanks again. <Continue water changes, hopefully your QT is catching up bio-wise. I like to run a filter at least for mechanical filtration. This is one of those cases where getting the Tang to eat medicated food would be great. Start him on it before moving him and then continue for a while afterward and if he gets any "spots'. I would try to get the Wrasse and Bi-color Blenny to eat it as well. The idea isn't to "get rid" of ick or any other of the various maladies, it is to provide a well balanced ecosystem where ick is under control, naturally. When it isn't, then we act to get the system back in order and provide poor conditions for ick to flourish. He should do fine with the medication in his system. Boy, good luck with this Jun! Craig> Yellow wrasse and a batter dipped... er... cleaner shrimp. Hi, Thanks for your excellent and very informative site. I wish I had seen it before I started, I could have made some better decisions! <Hehe, didn't we all> I have a 30 gallon FO with some (hopefully) culturing limestone reef rock, some scattered LR rubble (to provide coralline cultures etc.), and a <1 inch Fiji pink aragonite substrate. Filtration is an Eclipse 3 system with BioWheel (I know the limitations but its all I'm going to have for a while). Carbon filter cartridge is changed every 2 weeks and filter pad is cleaned daily, PolyFilter is in continuous use in the filter tray. Lighting is a CSL 24" 65 watt compact fluorescent SmartLamp (50 10K/50 actinic) retrofit kit. Water changes are 10% weekly. Circulation is augmented by a 160 powerhead. I'm adding a small amount of Seachem reef calcium daily to help get the coralline going. I'm in the process of getting a skimmer going under the Eclipse hood. <Cool, it's a big pain though, involving chopping the hood up a bit. I know of several people who have fit cheap SeaClones in there.> The tank has been operating 3 months and is stable with SG 1.023, Temp 78-79, PH 8.2, Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrates <10 ppm. Stock was initially 3 small damsels for cycling, 2 died due to constant attacks from the very aggressive yellowtailed blue (fins and eventually bodies bitten). <Lovely...> After the tank stabilized, we added 1 Engineer Goby (Convict Blenny?) <I've always wondered why they have two very distinct and different names...> which is doing well hiding under the rocks and digging his own elaborate cave system. <Careful that he rock doesn't collapse> I knew I should probably remove the damsel but it was thriving and I just didn't. But now I wish I had. I then added 4 turbo snails and 1 small serpent star. Then one 1.5" false percula clown was added. We're trying to keep the stock level quite low in this small a tank. With the Clown and the 1 aggressive damsel being the only free-swimming fish in the tank, the Clown was dominant at feeding time and most other times. Then this strange behavior would occur where the Clown would sort of hover, head down, in front of the damsel's preferred rock hole, while the Damsel would act aggressive and nip at the Clown's pectoral fins. The Clown would seem to completely ignore this. This went on for about 1 month with no apparent damage to the Clown. A few days ago we noticed the Clown acting more submissive in general and his tail fin had been chewed almost completely off. We knew it was the damsel (saw him doing it some later) but the Clown (who's behavior and feeding was normal otherwise) still seemed oblivious to these assaults. Due to the fin damage, it was already too late to save the Clownfish. I've since torn the tank apart in order to get rid of that damsel. What do you think would cause this seemingly healthy and normal Clown to allow these lethal attacks from a smaller damsel? By 'allow', I mean this apparent sort of 'sitting-still' and taking it behavior. <That's very odd, I don't know what to tell you!> Anyway, we now have another small clown which is doing well so far (a few days) by itself with the always hiding Goby. We just got a 2" Yellow Coris wrasse (Halichoeres chrysus) along with a skunk cleaner shrimp on the advice of our LFS. This may not have been the best idea given that I am now reading on your site that there is a possibility that the shrimp may become a shrimp snack for the wrasse. <Yep> The shrimp is little smaller than the wrasse maybe 1.5" head to tail. What do you think the odds of losing the shrimp the wrasse are? <90% when the wrasse gets larger> Should I complain to the LFS because when I specifically asked if the wrasse might attack the shrimp they said 'no'? <IF you think complaining will get you anywhere. Maybe simply pointing out that in the long run these critters may not get along together will be enough> Should I just wait and see? I want to keep the wrasse well-fed but it disappeared after 30 min nosing around the tank. I assume its buried (the LFS mentioned this behavior as well). <Yes they do that, he'll wake up every morning buried in the sand> Should I make an effort to feed it when it re-appears or should I just wait till the normal feeding time even if it has re-buried by then? <Don't expect normal behavior out of it for a week or so being that it's a new fish. Keep it well fed and remove it if it gets much larger than the shrimp. Good luck! -Kevin> Thanks for any help you can offer! Rob Pensacola, FL - Canary Wrasse Disappearance - Hello all: I just added 2 canary wrasses to my 125G FOw/oLR. As the tanks at the LFS did not have sand beds, both wrasses happily dove into the gravel when introduced on Sunday afternoon. Both made an appearance on Monday afternoon and both ate well. However, I have not seen either wrasse since Monday. I read the articles on the website that stated that these wrasses may hide for two or three days, but this time period seems unusually long. <Not for new introductions...> How are they surviving if I feed the tank while they are buried? <They are likely going hungry for the moment.> Do you think that they will appear in due course? <I do hope so, but you might also check the floor behind the tank. These fish can fly through the air with the greatest of ease... need to keep your tank well covered to prevent accidental loss.> As always, your input in valued. Thanks, Mitch <Cheers, J -- > - Expensive Tastes - Jason: Thanks for your reply. <My pleasure.> The mystery has been solved... my porcupine puffer saw both of these fish as an opportunity to satisfy his hunger pangs. <Oh bummer... those puffers do things like that. Sorry to hear of your loss.> Mitch <Cheers, J -- > - Mixing Wrasses - Hello all at WWM, I have a female Christmas Wrasse (Halichoeres ornatissimus) that follows me from one end of the tank to the other. My kids like to watch her dive into the sand bed at night after the lights go out. How DO they breathe under there anyway? I recently saw a male at a LFS that has a gorgeous bright ruby red color and is around the same size of 4" long. would it be o.k. to introduce a male into my tank ( 200 gal. with plenty of live rock ) with her or might she resent the presence of a male in her territory? <It's my thinking that this wouldn't work out. These fish are solitary in the wild - almost never seen in pairs. I don't think, even given the amount of space you have, that this mix will work. If you enjoy the interactions of your current wrasse, I'd leave it be as these will certainly change post addition.> I read on your site they are solitary but she gets along fine with everyone else... <Solitary meaning they don't hang out with others of their kind.> Coral Beauty Algae Blenny Royal Gramma Azure Damsel If not the male, how about another type of wrasse such as the Red Head Solon Fairy Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus Solorensis)? <Well, that Cirrhilabrus would be a fabulous choice not only because it is a real looker, but because it would work much better than another Halichoeres.> I want to make conscientious decisions on stocking the tank to make sure all inhabitants are happy as possible. <Good think you asked in advance.> Thanks in advance for your answer. Cheers! Joel <Cheers, J -- > Halichoeres compatibility -- terminator or Kumbaya???? 5/24/04 Hi there. Hope you're having a pleasant day. <well, with thanks and hope for you in kind> The dilemma: We have two primary tanks, a 200 and a 45 gallon. In the 45, we have our small and juvenile fish. Had a Yellowcheek wrasse (Halichoeres cyanocephalus) in there with a Lemon Meringue (Halichoeres leucoxanthus) for over a year, each being roughly an inch and a half long. About a week ago the Yellowcheek started turning on the Lemon Meringue, with intent to kill. Chomped a bit of the fins off the little guy before we popped him into the 200 for safety, where a larger Yellowcheek lives. That one immediately hit a torpedo attack on the lemon. We'd had a previous pair, each about 4 inches long, together in the 200 for about 3 years, no problems. We pulled the lemon out of the 200 (he's my favorite fish), put him back with his other friends in the 45 and put the small Yellowcheek into quarantine. <ah, good> What are the odds -- oops, as a Baptist I'm not supposed to know about those things...ahem. Let me rephrase that. What might be the chances that the two Yellowcheek fellows might get along in the 200 gallon neighborhood? <not likely it sounds at this point. Territorial drive is stronger than sexual drive more often in closed aquaria> We have mainly triggers and tangs in there now, with the larger Yellowcheek and a Mexican rock wrasse. Plenty of fine grain sand, barnacles and live rock in there as well. I've never tried mixing wrasses of the same species before. <it can be very difficult indeed, and works better when both go into new tank at the same time. Little chance here with one established> Thanks much, Susan Kooiman <best regards, Anthony> Radiant Wrasse I originally purchased the wrasse to put into a 40 Gal. SPS tank that has 70+ lbs. of LR. It is bare bottom except for a 1 foot square alcove in the rocks that gradually rises from ½' in the front to Approx. 5' in the back of the alcove. It also has 40 Gal. Refugium upstream and a 20 Gal. sump containing an overkill skimmer. A 1500 gph ( 0 head ) pump returns the water through a Mechanical, carbon, U.V., and heater modules. My question is will the wrasse be compatible with a Swissguard Basslet (L. rubre), and a Scooter Blenny (S. Ocellatus) which spends its nights buried in the sand (except for eyeballs). I had the intent of using the wrasse to help the scooter blenny control flatworm. I slipped up and didn't do my usual 4 week coral quarantine because I got some from a friend. I don't have a lot of flatworms. I think the blenny is doing some damage to them. He doesn't eat any of the food I feed the tank, not even Mysis. I do see him picking at the rocks and sand all day and he is chunky. It could be all the pods in the tank too. The only other occupant is a Flameback Angel (C. aurantonotus). <I don't see any problem with adding the fish.> My other option is to put the wrasse into a 40 Gal. Anemone (lots of polyps, mushrooms) set up that is identical to the SPS setup. This includes all equipment, refugium, LR, BB, and 1ft. square sand bed. This tank only has a pair of Solomon Island Perculas. The Chevron tang will also be going into that tank. I guess I could put the wrasse in this tank to keep the pods in check and leave enough for the scooter blenny in the SPS tank. This will insure he is working for his keep as I am not sure how it will do on flatworms. Thanks for all your opinions in this email and all other info you have shared with me on all FAQ's, Mahalo, Dennis <Dennis, I think either option will be viable. I would like to point out that the QT is too small for those fish. Even though it is a temporary home. The wrasse will get along in either tank. I would probably put the fish in the first tank. Good luck MikeB> The Mean Green Wrasse? (Halichoeres chloropterus) Hi, I have a Green Wrasse (Halichoeres chloropterus) and was wondering if the are compatible with corals and anemones ETC???? Thanks! Ryan <Hi Ryan. I'm a huge fan of Halichoeres species wrasses, and have kept many of them over the years. The H. chloropterus is one of the larger members of the family, and is every bit as compatible with corals as the others, IMO. Like most Halichoeres species, they will decimate any tubeworms, snails, feather dusters, and other small crustaceans that live in your system. They are not aggressive fishes, for the most part, but they can become "cantankerous" once they become acclimated to their new home. They have great personalities, but can become a bit of a behavioral problem in a smaller tank, or one that houses smaller fishes. All in all, I think that this is a great fish if you can accept their personality traits. Hope this helps! Regards, Scott F.> Wrasse compatibility I have a 72 gallon bow front reef tank with a pugnacious six line wrasse. I have a Halichoeres argus in another tank and would like to add him to the 72 gallon tank, however, I am wondering if the six line and him would get along. < I'd say you will be fine. I don't picture either of them causing any problems. > Another option I have been pondering is to set up a fish only tank with some more aggressive fish - triggers, moray eel, and a puffer. Would the Halichoeres argus be able to handle this tank? < Yes, I think so. Especially if he is 4 inches or longer. I think that would be fine as well. > For the more aggressive tank, what type of filtration would you recommend? < Lots of live rock, and a very large healthy refugium. > Thank you for your help. < Blundell > Green Wrasse Hi, I was wondering if the Green Wrasse (Halichoeres chloropterus) when people say not reef safe for this fish what do they mean E.G. they eat coral polyps, crustaceans ETC ? <According to fishbase.org, "Feeds mainly on hard-shelled prey, including mollusks, crustaceans and sea urchins"... And as it is a small species, a high/er score on blanket "reef safeness". Bob Fenner> Halichoeres chloropterus--Reef Safe or No? (5/11/05) Hi, I was wondering if the Green Wrasse (Halichoeres chloropterus) when people say not reef safe for this fish what do they mean i.e. they eat coral polyps, crustaceans, etc? <By "not reef safe," it is meant that they eat something that reefkeepers want in their tanks. Anything that eats corals is therefore not reef safe. Other things are more nuanced. The species in question is known to eat various invertebrates, a number of which (flatworms and parasitic snails) are actually pests. They may nip at Featherduster worms, but are not reported to nip at corals. They'll take out smaller crustaceans as well. Therefore, they advisory is "with caution" when it comes to reefs. Hope this helps, Steve Allen.> Wrasse Selection 4.3.05 Hi, I was wondering is the Green Wrasse - Halichoeres chloropterus safe to keep with a BTA and 2 clowns and also corals (if there is any corals to avoid when keeping this fish please inform me) <Although every fish on the reef eats SOMETHING, a wrasse of this type is especially hard on reef aquaria. Only in the largest aquaria is it a decent combination. A fairy wrasse would be a much better choice. Good luck, Ryan> Halichoeres hoeveni vs. Halichoeres melanurus - Will the Real
Wrasse Please Stand Up? >I wanted to get information on the
Halichoeres hoeveni. Is it reef safe? And what abut feeding
requirements and how big will it get? And lastly temperament? Yours,
Mark >>Hello Mark, Marina this morning. It seems that a search
using that name nets me a referral the Halichoeres melanurus. Once we
get that far finding this fish on fishbase.org is pretty easy. To
answer your question, in my experience most fishes of the Halichoeres
genus are outgoing and won't be bullied around. However, this guy
hits about 5" (12cm) in length, and is relatively small-mouthed,
as it feeds on small invertebrates. Expect this fish to snack on the
small stuff, and you'll need to treat it (re: feeding) as you would
a mandarin dragonet. So, in general, yes, "reef-safe", though
expect some snacking. A refugium or good supply of "pods"
will be most helpful for this little fellow. Don't forget, now that
you have the proper name of this species, please use our Google search
to find more information on this fish. |
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