FAQs about Light and Lighting for Marine
Systems, Fixture Selection 3
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Marine Lighting: Fixture Selection
1, Fixture Selection 2,
(incandescent, fluorescent, MH/HQI, LED, natural...), Lamp/Bulb Selection 1, Lamp/Bulb Selection 2, (See Fluorescent, LED,
MH... below), Installing, Waste Heat Production/Elimination, UV Shielding, Measure, Troubles/Repairs, By Manufacturer Make/Model:
& Actinic
Lighting, Metal Halide Lighting, Fluorescent Lighting,
Compact Fluorescent
Lighting, Small System Lighting,
Lighting Marine
Invertebrates, LR
Lighting, Tridacnid Lighting,
|
Many fishes don't like
overly bright settings
|
Lighting question: 20k vs. actinic bulbs 3/19/13
I am planning a move up to a larger reef aquarium with softies and LPS
and considering lighting options.
<What size display?>
Currently I have a very nice Aquaticlife t5 HO 4 bulb fixture with (2)
10k bulbs and (2) 20k bulbs in place of the actinics.
<How long have you had this fixture?>
I love the look and the corals have done well. The 20k run 14 hours, the
10k 12 hours. What do you think of this set up?
<Firstly, not all 20k's or 10k's are the same as one another. Some will
hold their spectrum much longer/better than others.>
Do you see any potential problems? It seems to me that 20k bulbs have
more usable light than actinics, but I do admit that I find the whole
lighting issue somewhat confusing.
<Haha it sure can be can't it. Some of these new full spectrum LED's are
even more complex. Not all actinics are they same either. There are
50/50's, 75/25's etc, the lighting combinations you can have are vast>
Thanks for your input.
Karen
<Your 4 T5's could be a ton of light for a shallow tank or they could be
really inadequate for a larger tank. Lets figure out what size range of
tank you will be upgrading to and go from there. NateG>
Re: Lighting question: 20k vs. actinic bulbs 3/19/13
Sorry about that. I am moving from a 46 gallon to 75 gallon. I got the
fixture three months ago. The 10k bulbs are original, the 20k are
Giesemann that where put in January.
<Nice color mix. I bet that looks great>
The fixture is 36 inches long, the new tank will be 48 inches long.
<Unless you raise the fixture a solid 6+ inches off of your tank, your
top corners will be without light. Some people even prefer this effect.
You should have enough light with your 10k 20k combo to have some less
light demanding corals by your sand. I wouldn't recommend 2x 10k and 2x
actinic over a 75. Especially if its a 36" fixture.>
Karen Adam
<If you find yourself in the market for a larger fixture, it is well
worth the investment for some nice full spectrum LED's. No more of the
$80+ a year in bulbs right. Less heat, less ac, less electricity=more
$=more frags! NateG>
Metal Halide Vs T5 HO
5/28/11
Hello guys and gals! John here. I hate to add to the large amount of
questions you receive and answer. I also know that reef lighting is an
open for debate topic. I am currently using a Current T5 HO Nova
Extreme fixture on a 90 gallon (48" long) Mixed reef with clams. I
am wanting to use that fixture for a propagation tank of LPS. My
consideration for a replacement is either an ATI 36" 8 bulb
fixture, with individual reflectors, or a 48" Ice Cap MH. I have
read The Book Of Coral Propagation. I am reading the Conscientious
Marine Aquarist but I can't find the answer I am looking for.
I guess I am looking for someone more knowledgeable than myself ,that
is not trying to sell me something, to give me advice. Thank you so
much for all of your help in the past and future.
<Mmm, well all three fixtures could/would work... a bit of an
equation/expression is the amount of energy and time you're
interested in investing in for the amount of growth you'd like...
the MH fixture here will get you the most growth in shorter time, but
with more operational cost (a few tens of percent)... the HO an
intermediate time frame/growth... and your present fixture last... Is
this response satisfying? Bob Fenner>
Re: Metal Halide Vs T5 HO
5/29/11
Yes and no. I guess I should have been more specific. Lighting is such
a tough topic. I have Crocea and Squamosa clams but I would like to add
Maxima. according to Anthony Calfo, Crocea clams are the most light
demanding. everything else I read and hear says Maximas need MH.
<Not necessarily... but as you state, high intensity...>
I am a bit confused, since my Croceas are doing well. I don't want
light overkill but I would like the maximum light for growth, health
and aesthetics of my invertebrates. Would Metal Halides be
overkill?
<Mmm, better to have you search WWM re PAR, metering... How to put
it/this... it's not the technology or means of producing photonic
energy that is important, but the cost of production, application
(depth, water clarity, colour....) that's important>
I suppose that is really what I was after. My tank is 48x24x18.
<... and so sometimes Maximas, Gigas clams are "placed up
higher" in the water column>
Thanks again for your quick response
and helpful info.
<Welcome. BobF>
LED vs. Metal Halide Lighting/Reef
Lighting 6/13/10
I couldn't find anything specific in your articles comparing these
two light sources, and I'm looking to go LED.
<Because this innovative lighting is rather new, we do not have much
information on this.>
Right now I am running a Hamilton 2x175 MH 10,000k / 2x110 VHO actinic
over my 125 gal. with success, but would like to cut my power usage. I
read in one place that LED has about the same lumens to watt ratio
(about 90-93) with greater useful light energy, but cannot find more
sources to verify.
<There are many systems out there ranging from simple LED strip
lights to full blown modular systems capable of duplicating the light
intensity of 400 watt MH systems.>
Can you guys help me? If LEDs are a practical alternative, what wattage
should I have to replace my Hamilton?
<I wouldn't say that are a practical alternative at this point,
as an LED system that would duplicate your MH system is rather pricey,
but over time, the savings realized both in lamp replacement and power
usage may well
justify their cost. I strongly believe that in the near future, prices
will drop considerably on these systems.>
Also, my tank is 24" deep, so are LEDs going to penetrate deep
enough to grow my corals? I have a large mix of soft corals, clams,
polyps etc and would not like to harm them by cheaping out on elec.
usage.
<AquaIllumination produces a modular system that would duplicate
what you presently have in intensity/useful light. One 12" module
consists of 24 LED lights and will draw about 75 watts from your wall.
When you compare this to a 250 watt double ended HQI lamp, the light
intensity is amazingly close, but the bad news is the 250 watt DE lamp,
once warmed up, draws about 280 watts from your wall. Have a look here
at pricing and detailed information.
http://premiumaquatics.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=PA&Category_Code=AquaIllumination
Also read Dr. Sanjay Joshi's test review of this system and several
others.
As you will see, the AquaIllumination system has by far the highest
light output in terms of intensity.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2010/5/aafeature2>
Thanks!
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Lighting recommendation -- 12/09/09
Dear WWM
<Dan>
I was wondering if I could get your input on these lighting
systems.
<Sure>
First is AquaticLife 72IN 3-150W HID 4-T5 HO 6 LUNAR,
<A nice unit:
http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/prod/242484/product.web>
second 72" Outer Orbit 3x150 w/ PC Lamps and
<http://www.cheappetproducts.net/72__OUTER_ORBIT_3X150W_10K_HQI-MH_4X96W_PC_
__LUNAR_LIGHT_STRIP-P47975.html>
third Belize Sun 72" 3 x 150W HQI + 2-T5 80W + 4 LED
<http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Category_Code=hreefst
ar&DEN_CRVM_Add=1&PA&Product_Code=H-A63H1502T5&Screen=PROD>
The first two lights have internal ballasts, is there any concerns
with
having internal ballasts?
<Mmm, no; not if the units are well designed, engineered, put
together...
In some ways I prefer (especially over the Net, not knowing folks) that
they be internal (vs. external, placed by the user, installer), as here
they're likely shielded from causing harm, fire>
Does the HID lamp really put out more light while using less power?
<Yes>
I'm also concerned with noise from the fans on the light, is one
system quieter than the other?
<Mmm, don't know. I'd ask about on the usual hobbyist
bb's re actual user input here, though I suspect all are very
quiet>
What system has the better reflector and over all light?
With many thanks Dan
<Again, I don't know, have not seen these tested for such. It
would not be difficult to check for these characteristics though...
given PAR, Lux meters and the fixtures on hand. I suspect the Belize
unit is the winner
just by reading the specifications. Again, for real gear input my
standing suggestion is a careful/cursory asking about on the hobby
bulletin boards like Reefs.org, ReefBuilders... Please do report back
your findings here.
Bob Fenner>
Lighting Question/Selection 8/29/09
Hello Crew,
<Wayne>
I am re-sending this email because I'm not sure it was delivered
properly. If it has already been received and is being processed,
please forgive me for the repetition.
<Don't believe we have received this before.>
I am writing to you for help with my lighting questions, as have many
people before me! My system is a 90 gallon 24"H x 48"W x
18"D with about 100 pounds of live rock, about 80 lbs of sugar
sized aragonite, 3
Amphiprion percula, 1 Centropyge bispinosus, 1 Pseudocheilinus
hexataenia, some green Sinularia, Duncanopsammia axifuga,
Pachyclavularia sp., some mushroom anemones, a few Zoanthids and a
Pavona sp.. I currently have a 48" 2 x 65 watt 50/50
daylight/actinic fixture for my lighting. I would like to upgrade my
lighting setup and was hoping that you might help me to determine what
type of fixture and
bulbs I should be looking for. I keep wavering between T5 and metal
halide but I am having difficulty making a decision. I can easily
accommodate a hanging fixture in either case. Some of my concerns
with
the metal halides would be the heat generated and also the light
spilling out from the fixture, let's call it light pollution. My
tank is in our kitchen area which is also open to our living room and I
am not concerned about the extra light in these areas, but I am
concerned about exposure to this high intensity light for my family,
most especially my little 8 month old girl who would be looking up at
it all the time! Would I be able to suspend the MH light at a
sufficient distance so that I would be able to provide adequate
lighting for my
invertebrates and yet not need a chiller for my aquarium? My house is
air conditioned, so generally the ambient air temperature is not that
high. Would I be better served by T5 lighting, and if so, how many
bulbs and what combination of wavelengths/intensities should I be
looking for? I would also like to add that my rock structure is also
arranged so that I am able to put the invertebrates with lower light
requirements under some of my overhangs and at the ends of rock
structures so that they do not necessarily receive the highest
intensity or direct lighting.
<Is all going to depend on the type of invertebrates you want to
keep. In your 24" deep tank, most SPS corals are going to require
high intensity lighting in the form of HQI/MH, the same goes for many
species of clams also. If your intent is to keep medium light loving
invertebrates, then I would go with a 4 lamp T5 fixture. If SPS corals
and light loving clams are in your future, then I would go with an
HQI/MH fixture. There are many of these full hood fixtures on the
market incorporating cooling fans in the fixture itself.
With these fixtures, your little girl will not be able to look directly
at the lights, and in that regard, I would steer clear of hanging
MH/HQI light hoods, can cause damage to your daughter's pretty
eyes.>
I am looking through literature on the WWW as well as your many FAQs on
WetWebMedia, but these are complicated and dare I say, muddy waters
that I am traversing so I would appreciate your assistance here.
<You may want to read here.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm>
Thanks again,
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Wayne
Lighting Advice'¦Fixture Type/Wattage --
08/24/09
Dear WWM
<<Hiya Dan>>
I'm looking for some advice on lighting.
<<Okay'¦let's see if I can help>>
I'm planning on buying ether a 72x24x24 or a 72x24x30 inch
tank.
<<I see'¦and for clarity/others benefit, I'm going
on the assumption this is the standard dimension presentation of
LxWxH>>
I'm looking at also purchasing an Outer Orbit HQI 3X150w MH with
4x96w PC. Do you think this lighting system is a good make and would it
be adequate for both tank sizes?
<<I don't have any 'hands-on' experience with these
units and to be honest they're not my cup of tea (for this kind of
money I would rather build a rig using a better MH reflector [Lumenarc
or Lumen Bright], but I have heard others say good things about them.
As for its 'suitability' re these tanks, yes, it probably will
do just fine with proper considerations to stocking and
placement'¦though I would prefer a 250w system here for
increased versatility re>>
Keeping in mind that I have not made up my mind on what type of corals
I would like to stock and don't want to be limited on what I can
stock.
<<Then I would consider a higher wattage MH bulb>>
Also I'm considering in adding a DSB of 6 inches to the tank, how
much would this change my minimum lighting requirements.
<<Keeping in mind you haven't decided on the organisms
you're going to keep'¦and most reefers penchant to go with
'bluer' bulbs these days (myself included)'¦I would
still go with a 250w fixture/system>>
Thank you, in advance
Dan
<<Happy to share'¦ EricR>>
R2: Lighting Advice'¦Fixture Type/Wattage --
08/26/09
Do you consider Coralife Aqualight Pro Metal or Hamilton Technology
Belize Sun Metal Halide better fixtures?
<<I might give Hamilton the edge in quality, though I think any
real difference here is going to be in one's sense of
aesthetics'¦that said, I like the look/style/design of the
Hamilton fixture over that of the Coralife unit. EricR>>
Re: Lighting Advice'¦Fixture Type/Wattage -- 08/26/09
Thanks for the info and the quick response.
<<A pleasure to assist... EricR>>
T5 Compaq combo? 5/5/09
Reef Lighting
Hello Crew,
<Hello William>
I'm completely confused by the mixture of info and lack of numbers
to judge by when dealing with light bulb types, and I could use your
help (and please correct me if I list something as a fact that is
actually wrong).
<OK>
I have a 72 gal bowfront tank, which is 48" long by 13" deep
by 24" tall.
I also have the Coralife (Oceanic) 48 " deluxe light with Compact
Fluorescents. It comes with 2- 24", 10k, 65 watt bulbs and
2-24" actinics (which I assume are 65watt as well), for a total of
230 watts of lighting.
I've been told this isn't enough for sps.
<Would be borderline for most light loving SPS corals, but there are
a few species this lighting could support. Most etailers will list
light requirements for species of corals they sell. In your case, based
on the depth of your tank, corals requiring "moderate" light
should survive in your system.>
I've taken LUX readings with the CF (don't have a par meter
yet). Just below the water surface it's 5800 LUX , and my sandbed
is at 1300 LUX. I converted LUX to PAR (but I haven't found any
listing for the compact florescent coefficient to use so this is a
guess) and get something like 116 at top and 26 at the bottom.
<Photosynthetically Active Radiation, often abbreviated PAR,
designates the spectral range of solar light from 400 to 700 nanometers
that photosynthetic organisms are able to use in the process of
photosynthesis.
This spectral region corresponds more or less with the range of light
visible to the human eye. Since we use lamps of the proper Kelvin
temperature, I would be more interested in LUX values rather than PAR
values for our purposes. I might add not to confuse lumens with Lux.
Lumens is the total amount of light that a lamp is capable of
generating, usually available on either the lighting package or from
the manufacturer's data sheets. There are two values usually quoted
for fluorescent tubes: initial lumens and design lumens. Initial lumens
describe how much light it produces when first turned on. Design lumens
describe how much light it will produce for a much longer term. After
an initial 20 percent drop in brightness, the light output will slowly
decrease over the lifetime of the tube. Lux is a unit of measure equal
to lumens per square meter or, a measure of the actual intensity of the
light falling over a specified area.
Because Lux depends on how the light gets from the bulb to the area, it
can not be specified by the manufacturer, but must be measured by the
aquarist.>
I need to bump my lighting in the tank. I want to add a single strip T5
HO fixture. This housing will be 3 inches wide, which is all the real
estate I have left to sit a light on top of the tank. I estimate this
new light will cost me around $140.
So here's the problem.
I can't figure how much more PAR this will add to the tank, and
therefore whether it's worth it. I don't want to waste money by
adding a light that really won't be felt, but I don't have the
ready cash available to buy a whole new lighting system. I don't
understand how to judge watts to PAR <Watts has nothing to do with
PAR. The watt is used to specify the rate at which electrical energy is
dissipated, or the rate at which electromagnetic energy is radiated,
absorbed, or dissipated.>
between Compaq's and T5s and MH. Any help?
<If keeping SPS corals is your goal, I would wait till you have
enough cash to replace the unit with a twin 150 watt HQI lighting
system. Adding an additional T5 lamp for 140 bucks would not be a good
investment.>
From what I've read, the new T5 HO's are just as good as
MH's these days.
Is this true?
<Yes and no, will depend on the depth of tank and number of lamps
used. In shallow tanks such as yours, the T5 HO is a good way to go. I
personally like the look of metal halide lighting.>
If so, how do you judge how many bulbs you need? As I stated my tank is
48" long, 24" tall and 13" deep.
And lastly how do Compaq's compare to T5 HOs straight up?
<The T5's, in my opinion produce a larger light distribution
pattern and produce more lumens watt for watt.>
Are 2, 24" 65watt 10k Compaq's equal to 1-48" T5 HO?
<No, we are comparing 130 watts to 54 watts.>
Are the CFs 1/2 as strong as the T5 HO?
<I don't believe to that margin, again, watt for watt.>
Are compacts equal to the older T5s?
<Likely close, but the T5's have an edge on efficiency.>
These are the kind of facts I could use right now.
<I suggest you read here and related articles/FAQ's.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm>
Thanks.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Lighting and DSB'¦T5 vs. MH --
03/17/09
Hello everyone.
<<Hiya Steve>>
I am looking into upgrading from an Aquapod to a larger system. The
wife has 1 unchangeable limitation of length being a maximum of
36".
<<I see (dang women [grin])>>
So what I am contemplating is either a 36"x24"x24" which
is 90 gallons or 36"x24"x18" which is 65 gallons.
<<Same footprint, eh'¦might as well go for the added
volume then, especially if considering a DSB>>
Also she wants a canopy for her own aesthetic reasons.
<<Okay>>
I would like to be able to keep clams and various types of corals. I
will be using at least 1.5lbs per gallon of LR,
<<Do be sure to leave room for the fishes to swim/corals to
grow>>
refugium, sump.
<<Excellent'¦and both can be used to house live rock (if
needed) to keep the display from being overcrowded re>>
I would rather avoid a chiller.
<<Okay>>
I live in Orange County Southern California and the normal temp is
under 90 most of the time. I do have AC in the house. I would also like
to keep my electric bill down.
<<Wouldn't we all'¦>>
I would rather have the 90 gallon tank of course and this brings me to
my question. If I go with the 24" deep tank and 4" DSB would
a 8 X 39 Watt T5 HO lighting system with 4 10k bulbs and 4 actinic be
enough to penetrate <to> clams <and> corals at sand level
or would I have to go metal halide?
<<With some caveats, yes'¦ I would recommend a 6 to 2
ratio of 10K and Actinic bulbs. I would also suggest
'individual' reflectors for the T5s if possible, along with
placement close to the water's surface. Do also consider the
careful placement in the water column of livestock based on
species/lighting requirements>>
If metal halide should I use 2 175watts or 2 250watts?
<<The smaller wattage would suffice>>
Should I decide to go with the shallower tank then could I use the
T5's?
<<Not necessary'¦especially considering the addition of
the DSB>>
Also should I have a lid between the lights and water?
<<I would not place anything over the tank to hinder light
transmission OR gas exchange>>
I also don't mind installing fans in the canopy if necessary.
<<I would figure on doing this'¦regardless of the
lighting option you choose>>
Also if T5 setup is ok will it penetrate <to> the DSB?
<<Yes>>
My last question pertains to lighting as well; depending on what light
setup you recommend the canopy is available in 2 different heights
10" and 12"?
<<If your preference is the T5 lighting, choose a canopy that
lets you mount these closest to the water's surface (ideally,
within 3-4 inches). If you choose metal halide, either canopy will
likely serve>>
Thanks for all your help.
Steve
<<Happy to share... EricR>>
Lighting Choices... reef 9/26/08 Hi
everyone. I have a lighting question for you. I have looked at your
site but the more I look the more I get confused. I was reading this
article from Bob
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/lighting/index.htm and it
states in his opinion that full spectrum florescent lighting VHO is the
best most appropriate lighting. <In some situations, less so
nowadays.> But then when I read more into other articles others
there answer say that PC and VHO are basically the same but PC has more
density than VHO but Metal Halide would be the way to go. <Again, it
depends on your system and livestock.> This is my plan and then you
can give me an idea if you don't mind. I have a 55g that I want to
move over to a 125g AGA that I got a few months ago. I have finally
finished the sand bed and plumbing and want to start on the light. The
light I have now on my 55 is a Odyssea 260w CF and I don't think
that will be enough of my 125. I am going to build a canopy and was
planning on pulling the fixture apart to put in there but again I
don't think that is enough. I was planning on putting some DIY MH
till now. It has a 6in sand bed right now. All my stock is still in my
55 which is a 4ft Zebra Eel (reason why I need to switch to my 125) 1
Clown, few Dempsey, Angel, butterfly and yellow tang and a few sps.
<Yep, time to upsize!> I want to be able to really stock this
once its up and going to lots of coral. <What corals do you wish to
keep?> What is you recommendation on the light and how much
(wattage, quantity, etc..)Also don't want something that will bring
my electric cost up. Single parent. <More wattage equals more power
used regardless of bulb type. For what you are looking to do you may
want to consider T5 bulbs. They tend to impart less heat into the water
and are as energy efficient that you can get right now (except for
LEDs, but these are big money). How much wattage depends on what you
wish to keep. A little research on your part regarding your desired
livestock will answer this.> Been doing this for about 5-6years so
I'm not really new to all this. Thanks!! Bill M <Welcome, Scott
V.>
Odd Lighting Question revised (sorry guys and gals),
SW fixture choices, reefs... 9/25/08 Hello crew, hope
you all are well. <I am here, thank you.> So I have a lighting
question for you. I have a 60 cube that is 30" long x 24"
tall x 18" wide. I was using two t5 lighting units, both 48 watts.
I recently upgraded to a SunPod 30". Its a 150 watt MH with all
the LED's ( very happy to have those for night time viewing). I
took the t5's down, but after chatting with some reefer friends
that use other types of lights with there MH's, I started to think
about maybe using the t5's with the MH SunPod. Would you recommend
this? <You could, its up to you. Most use T5 actinics with MH to
'blue' the water a bit more and make the livestock fluoresce a
bit. Realize that all light transfers some heat to the tank, even
T5s.>br>I am not doing any sps, just softies, LPSs, polyps, and
Shrooms. Also, I have read/heard never to remove the center plastic
beam on the top of the tank, and I haven't, but it casts a shadow
in the center of the tank from the MH. What's your take on that
black plastic beam? <I hate the danged things, but if your tank was
designed with it leave it be.> I am hanging the MH pendant about
10" above the tank, do you think I should lower it? <7-10'
is about right.> Also because my tank is so tall would I benefit
from lowering the light, as well as using the t5's? <What you
list will be fine with the light you have, but the T5s will not hurt
anything either. They can have quite an impact on the look of the tank
depending on bulb choice.>br>Also, given the right conditions how
long does it usually take coal to grow/propagate? <Depends on the
coral.> II have notices some of my zoo's grow new polyps, but my
hammer hasn't gotten any bigger or shown any signs of new growth. I
also have never had Mushroom reproduce either. I have heard stories of
people putting mushrooms in a tank and two weeks later splitting
occurs. All my water parameters are in line and I test and change water
religiously. I feed the coral with DTS 3 times a week. Any suggestions?
<Mushrooms do appreciate more of an indirect, subdued light and
current. These are one of those corals that can grow like gangbusters
in ill maintained systems and just be there in immaculate tanks. More
info at the link below and linked pages above on the page.>br>
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/corallim.htm Thanks again guys and thanks
for your continued support and information. This site has been a wealth
of information for me over the past year. <Heee, thank you and
welcome!> Spencer Hall <Scott V.>
Lighting.... again. 9/5/08 Hello,
friends! <Hey there Thomas.> Sorry I do not have the prior emails
to accompany this, I'm using a web based email at this time. <It
is a world of difference sometimes.> The long and short was that I
am setting up a reef tank 36" long and 24" deep (top to
bottom). The tank is a 65 gallon tank. I do plan to keep softies and
stonies as I read more about them. I've exchanged emails with a
crew member there, and had initially decided on an 8 bulb T5HO fixture
for this tank. One thing he mentioned that has me hesitant, is that
they won't produce that 'shimmer' that is so amazing in
nicely done reef tanks. <Nope, not like the MH will.> I've
read your FAQ on medium system metal halide lighting, and I've
looked at several fixtures... none really match my setup in the FAQ.
The fixture I'm looking at has dual 175w halides with two 65w CF
bulbs. I need to go with two bulbs due to the center brace. <I love
these tanks, but the center brace is a pain.> Think this is adequate
for lighting? <Oh yes, you will have quite a bit of overlap in the
middle of the tank, suitable for your higher light needing corals.>
There is a unit that has dual 250w halides, but I'm thinking that
may be a bit excessive. <This can work too, but will be quite a bit
of light and heat to manage with this spread.> The T5HO is still an
option, I'm just fascinated by that shimmer.... <I hear you, I
fought it for years. Recently I have finally given in and honestly
would never go back. I just personally like the T5. Others have tried
the same and go back to halides. If you are the type that does not mind
a slightly higher power bill along with a chiller, then IMO it really
does come down to the shimmer. Do you want it or not? I used to think I
could not live without'¦now it is no problem.> Best
regards! Thomas <I hope this helps you decide. For what it is worth,
the LED lighting is quickly advancing and will likely be the standard
within the next few years. At the moment it is expensive, but LEDs do
combine the advantages: low heat of T5 with the shimmer much like the
MH, a lower power cost of either, no bulb replacement, along with some
amazing adjustability in the current units out there. Something to
consider/watch out for in the next few years. Cheers, Scott
V.>
T5 or Metal Halide 9/2/08 I need to make a
very big decision regarding my 120 gallon reef to be Tank. I have been
looking at the following fixtures: current USA's Nova Extreme 8x54,
and the Outer Orbit 175w 10,000k combination halide/actinic fixture. I
do not yet know exactly what I want to keep for corals, clams, etc. in
this tank. I do know that I would like to have the greatest flexibility
as to what I am able to keep/grow in this tank. I really do not want to
have to deal with the light problems of 250 W halide, so another
question is would 175 W halide x 2 be sufficient? <Yes, for the most
part you could keep what you like with the correct placement in the
tank.> The Nova Extreme is a 432 W fixture, while a Outer Orbit is a
516 W fixture with all lights on. What would I lose in my ability to
keep SPS corals and clams by going with the T5 fixture? <No, you can
keep SPS and clams just fine with the T5, again with appropriate
placement; higher light hungry corals closer to the top.> Setting
SPS and clams aside, how good would the lighting be for most other
corals? <Very good in general.> I would really appreciate some
advice as to what fixture would be best for me to go with. <Either
fixture can fit the bill for what it sounds like you want to do. I have
personally become partial to the T5's in the recent months, see
first hand what these fixtures can do. The T5's will transfer less
heat to your tank, an important factor if you are borderline on needing
a chiller. Also, the bulbs are easy to switch around and swap out to
get the look one wants. The MH are tried and true coral growers. The
big thing that keeps many from leaving the MH is the shimmer they
provide, you just don't get that with the T5's. You will just
have to decide what is important to you.> Best regards, and thanks
greatly for your help, Jeffrey C <Welcome, have fun setting this up,
Scott V.>
Lights question, reading...
08/28/08 Hi :-) Can you please tell me the difference between
the following lights? 1. PC - Power Compact 2. CFL - Compact Florescent
3. PL - I don't know what the full form is for this one. <...
this last is a company: http://www.pllight.com/about.php> Is PL good
enough for LPS and Zoanthid and Shrooms in a 40cm water column tank?
Thanks Again Ranjith <Read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm the last couple trays... and
Corallimorph Systems FAQs... Don't write... read. BobF>
Re: Lights question 8/29/08 Aloha bob I
have gone through the FAQs many times. My question is I don't
understand the difference between these technologies. Couldn't get
out of Google or Wikipedia too. <? What do you mean by
"couldn't get out?"> I apologise for not being clear
with the question though. Will zoas shrooms and a moon coral thrive in
a cfl lit tank of 16 inch water column depth when lights are 6 odd
inches away from the water level? <Yes, can> So many say MH is
needed and so many say otherwise. Driving me nuts. I see you recommend
full spectrum T12s. <I have at times, places... There's a bit
more to any given "equation" of determining a "good
fit" for lighting (and other gear)... To wit: what are your
intents (not needs)... IF you're trying to maximize growth,
reproduction, repair from fragmenting... MH is very likely a/the route
to go... perhaps with even some "natural" light... But, if
you simply want to keep these sorts of Cnidarians
"successfully", less photonic energy is fine, preferable in
terms of not "over-driving" other factors (e.g. temperature,
biomineral content...) and increasing the cost of operation of your
system> I just do not want to go to MH unless necessary due to the
heat issue. Cheers Ranjith <I understand, and agree. Bob
Fenner>
Lighting questions... SW, gen. 07/23/2008 Hi,
<<Hello, Andrew today>> There are many hang on
lighting systems available in the market these days.
<<yes>> They combine MH and tube lights/PC/CFL lights
in the same canopy. The distance of bulbs from the water surface
to be effective for MH is much higher than the tubes and PCs etc.
<<Yes, this is mainly due to heat transfer from light. Too
much heat at the water surface greatly increases
evapouration>> Which means the lights will either be too
bright or too inefficient based on how high or low one chooses to
set them at. <<The average for Metal halides is about 8
inches. This provides a good chance for heat dissipation into the
air, lowering evap and allows for the largest portion of usable
light into the tank>> The question is, is it efficient to
combine different light sources in the same canopy? <<yes,
I don't see any reason why not. However, for me personally, I
really don't see a need to combine metal halides and T5, for
example, as the white marine light will mainly come from the
halides>> PS: I almost forgot, some of them also advertise
they have moonlight LEDs in the same canopy :-)
<<Moonlight...hmm....Unless your very very specific on
creating the moon phases in the aquarium, then, then the only
purpose is so you can view the tank after lights out, when its
dark>> Cheers, Ranjith <<Thanks for the question,
hope this helps. A Nixon>>
Re: Lighting question 07/23/2008 Hi Andrew,
<<Hi>> I think I confused you.
<<Slightly>> I understand all the reasons for the
difference in distance from water level for MH and other lights.
Look at it this way If you keep a T5 or Compact Florescent at
8-10 inches above water level, will you not lose the major part
of the effectiveness? On the other hand, you NEED to keep the MH
at the same 8-10 inches from the water level. <<I mentioned
keeping a halide unit that amount above the water level, not a T5
or compact fluor unit. These are usually about 3 inches above
water level. Yes, if you had that at the 8 - 10 inches height,
yes, you would certainly loose the effectiveness of that type of
lighting unit>> So, if a single canopy has both types, then
what height to keep at? <<If you referring to a canopy
which has halides, then 8 inches. This is where I don't see
the need to mix a canopy of halides and T5/PC lighting, as the
effectiveness of the tube lighting is far less effective>>
Cheers Ranjith <<Thanks, A Nixon>> Re: Lighting
question 07/23/2008 Thanks a Lot Andrew. That sentence of
"effectiveness of the tube lighting is far less
effective" is what I wanted to hear from you guys :)) I was
thinking of buying something like this
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+3733+12779&pcatid=12779
They basically have T5+HQI+Led all on the same system. I was
wondering if this is useful. I guess it is ONLY fine if u want to
Use one type as a full time light and others as an pure viewing
pleasure right? <<the above link shows "page no longer
available". However, yes, that type of lighting fixture is
fine. Was just looking at the Outer Orbit HQI/Compact
Fluorescent/Lunar Fixture>> Cheers Ranjith <<Thanks,
and have a good day. A Nixon>>
|
T5 vs. Metal Halides 6/28/08 I first want to say what a
wonderful site and thank you for all the help you have been so far.
<Great, glad the site has been of help, thank you!!> My question
is about the debate over T5 and MH. <Can be a quandary.> I have a
300 gallon 96L X 24W X 30H. I am currently running 4-250 watt MH and
was wondering if two Tek 48" 8 bulb 54-watt fixtures would be a
better choice. Everyone I talk to is worried about the 30" depth
will this be a problem with T5. <Neither is the 250W MH depending on
bulb choice and what you put near the bottom. It is all about
placement.> I am planning on keeping all sorts of LPS, SPS, Clams,
Mushrooms, etc. . I know the corals that need the most lighting will
need to be placed at the top but will the 16-54 watt T5 be enough.
<I feel it is. With any light the placement comes into play, but you
will have similar lighting with these T5 fixtures as you have now.>
My main issue with the MH is heat and electricity, I know I will lose
the shimmer but will I also loose the heat and electricity? <Yes, to
some extent. Don't expect an earth shattering difference in you
power bill. The halides you run now consume 1000 watts (likely about
1200W in reality, depending on bulb and ballast), while the T5's
you propose will pull very close to what they are rated, Thanks for a
wonderful site, 864 in this case. This does definitely add up over
time, but you have to consider that you already own the MH's!! As
for the cooling, the bulb's heat is spread through the bulb in
either case, the T5's just spread it over a longer area. This does
translate into less heat your tank will absorb, especially with fans
running between the bulbs and water. The other factor is cost of
replacing the bulbs. The T5 bulbs should last a bit longer than the MH,
giving a slight edge to them here (this again depends highly on what
bulbs you do use). I must say I am a huge proponent for the T5's,
but do not use them due to my addiction to the shimmer!> Brad <I
hopes this helps you decide, Scott V.>
A quick thank you! 05/29/2008 Hello, I
wanted to send a thank you for answering my lighting question. I really
appreciate all of the hard work undertaken by the WWM crew. My ability
to care for our tank in a responsible and informed manner has greatly
improved since finding this website. The families, teachers, and foster
grandparent volunteers at my workplace, a non-profit child care center
with 160 children ages 6 weeks through 6 years, enjoy a thriving,
beautiful tank each day. With regard to my lighting question, I decided
to go ahead and change the tank lighting to T5 lighting, as per my
question. was promptly answered by A. Nixon on 04/05/08. We ordered the
lighting through one of the advertisers on the WWM website, marine and
reef. The fixture was $200 less than what my LFS was offering and
included free shipping. We ordered it on a Monday, they verified the
shipping address on Tuesday, shipped it on Wednesday, and it arrived on
Friday! It is now all set up and doing well. We have noticed things we
never noticed before, sponges and brittle sea stars etc., because we
couldn't see in the darker rock crevices. We love the new lights
and thank you again for your advice. Sincerely, Kim <<Its my
pleasure Kim, I am really glad to hear everything is well and new
aspects of viewing pleasure are now being explored. Kind Regards, A
Nixon>>
Light Conversation (Lighting
Upgrades) 5/29/08 I have a 90 gal
glass tank, 48x24Dx18. It's been setup for about 3 months. 100 lbs
live rock, sand bottom, wet dry filter, 25w Aqua UV light. Reef Devil
protein skimmer, MRC CR1 calcium reactor and a 1/4 hp Oceanic chiller.
Live stock consists of 3 Blue/Green Chromis, 2 False Percula Clowns, 1
Firefish, 1 Yellow Tang, 1 Blond Naso Tang, 1 Exquisite Wrasse, 1 Flame
Angel, 1 Coral Banded Shrimp, 1 Red Serpent Star, and 50 Hermit Crabs.
<A nice mix of fishes, but we need to rethink the Naso Tang. This
fish requires a very large aquarium (hundreds of gallons) in order to
live anything close to a natural life span, and really needs to be
given away to an aquarist who has the facilities to keep this fish for
the long run. Just a gentle reminder! Scott F., your conscience, in
today..> Corals consist of 1 Open Brain, 1 Frogspawn, 1 Trumpet
Coral, 1 Moon Brain, 3 small Ricordea and a small assortment of
Mushroom corals. Water movement is accomplished with 2 Maxijet
1200's with mod kits along with the return line run from a Dart
pump. Currently my lighting is 4- 96w pc's, 2 10k and 2 actinic
mounted in a closed hood about 7" off the surface of the water
with 2- 3" fans, 1 pulling and 1 pushing. I would like to upgrade
my lighting. <A good idea. This selection of corals will benefit
from greater intensity> I can fit 6- T5's 54w HO run off of 3
Accu-start ballasts with various selections of bulbs or I can also go
with 2- 250w MH, either Ushio 10k or Radium 20k run off of 2 Ice Cap
electronic ballasts along with 2 VHO actinic T5's into the existing
hood. My goal if reasonable is to add stony corals and maybe a clam to
the current stock. Any suggestions and opinions would be appreciated.
Thanks, Roger <Well, Roger, I'd suggest the T-5s, with a mix of
daylight-flavored bulbs, such as the Giesemann "11,000K", or
UV lighting 10,000k bulbs. If you go the halide route, I'd
recommend some double ended pendants, such as Sunlight Supply's
"Lumenmax" units in 250 watt configuration, with either a
Phoenix 14,000k bulb or an AquaMedic 10,000k bulb. Although arguably
less energy efficient than T5's the double ended halides in
well-designed reflectors are always a fine choice, and will provide
excellent intensity for a wide variety of animals. Don't forget to
gradually acclimate your corals to either of these higher-intensity
light sources, as you don't want to burn them as he new light
system is breaking in. Hope this helps! Regards, Scott F.>
Fixture Size 5/15/08 Hello Bob {and
crew}, <Hello, Scott V. with you.> I have a quick
question....I'm currently setting up a 75 gallon reef tank and I
have run into a slight problem with my lighting. The canopy I am going
to use fits snug to the top of my tank {like normal canopies do...lol},
so this prevents me from using a 48" fixture. AARGH. <I here
you, frustrating. Do realize that many of the T5 fixtures actually
measure in at 47-47.5' . This is one of the advantages of T5's,
they were developed to fit inside canopies!> I plan on using
T5's {most versatile for easy corals/invertebrates I plan to keep}
- subject to change per your advice/my further research! <T5 is a
fine choice.> My question is, do you see a problem with me utilizing
a 36" fixture{s} or something other than the 48" fixture?
<No, although your tank will be a bit darker on the ends, you will
need to place livestock accordingly.> How about placement of a
shorter fixture? <Likely in the middle, you could put it to one side
if you like the look (it will leave the other end dark).> I'm
trying to stay away from the cliché of a normal wattage per
gallon, having said that, what's a good ratio for beginner corals
and inverts? 3-4...lol? <Of course this depends entirely on what you
wish to keep, but 4 watts per will serve you for what most consider
beginner corals.> Your advice and instruction on what I should do is
greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time in helping us less informed!
Jay <Welcome, have fun with the new tank! Scott V.>