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With
all the publicity of Finding Nemo, there is sure to
be a considerable amount of interest in aquarium keeping and in
particular, the care of Clownfish and Tangs. Young,
impressionable children are going to be clamoring for their parents to
buy them their very own Marlin, Nemo, and Dory. This article is
intended to give a beginner some of the basic information on the care
and environment required to properly house these types of pets.
Luckily, Marlin and Nemo are actually very popular and hardy fish that
can be cared for relatively easily. They are sold under several
common names; common Clownfish, Clown Anemonefish, false Clown
Anemonefish, Percula Clownfish, or false Percula Clownfish, but their
scientific name is Amphiprion ocellaris or more casually as the
Ocellaris Clownfish. These fish are naturally found throughout
the Eastern Indian Ocean and Western Pacific and make an excellent
addition for a beginner's first marine aquarium. They have an
interesting, undulating swimming pattern, bright coloration, a great
personality, and grow to a manageable size; making them a favorite of
all saltwater enthusiasts. Clownfish are most recognized for
their symbiotic association with anemones, although they do not require
an anemone to be happy and healthy in captivity. Clownfish are
almost always found within the protection of an anemone in the wild,
rarely venturing more than three feet from their home. This close
association and tendency for limited travel make them a perfect subject
for life in the confines of aquaria. The anemones are another story.
Currently, there is no guaranteed methodology to succeed in keeping an
anemone alive, with most all anemones removed from the ocean perishing
in under a year. This is truly appalling given that anemones are
nearly immortal in the wild, have a low rate of reproduction, limited
distribution, and provide critical protection from predation for
Clownfishes in the wild. Luckily, like I said above, clownfish
adapt quite readily to life in the aquarium without an anemone because
they don't need the protection from predators in an aquarium.
Many times they merely take shelter near a small cave, or live with an
artificial anemone, or accept an unnatural surrogate such as a Leather
Coral (Sarcophyton or Lobophytum). The other factor that makes Clownfish such a
good candidate for a beginner's aquarium is that a large number of
them are currently being bred in captivity. These farm raised
fish are hardier because they do not have to survive the rigors of
transport from the Indo-Pacific, a lot less disease prone and
considerably less aggressive than their wild counterparts, just as
colorful, already accustomed to people and prepared foods, and are an
environmentally conscientious choice. For all these reasons and
more, I always urge hobbyists to purchase captive raised fish whenever
possible.
Clownfish will usually take to eating just about any food
offered. A high-quality, dry, pellet food would be a good
standard offering, supplemented by some frozen foods. Frozen
mysis shrimp, plankton, and bloodworms as well as any of the frozen
food mixes (example: Ocean Nutrition's Formula One) are all good
choices that should be offered at least once per week. The frozen
food should be defrosted for a few minutes in a small cup containing
some water from the aquarium. Heating the frozen food in a
microwave destroys some of the vitamin content of the food and should
be avoided. Simply allowing it to sit out for a minute or two on
a counter will sufficiently thaw the food. As it is defrosting,
it would be a good idea to add some additional vitamin supplements to
the cup. This will allow time for the frozen food to absorb the
vitamins and provide the fish with a little extra help to maintain and
boost their natural coloration. Products like Boyd's
Vita-Chem and American Marine Selcon would be excellent choices.
If the local fish store does not carry these brands, I am sure one of
the knowledgeable employees there will be able to help find a suitable
substitute.
If
your only goal is to keep two Clownfishes, you are in luck as the
initial investment will not be too great. This is, of course, a
relative statement. I have put together some larger saltwater
tanks that run into the thousands, even tens of thousands of
dollars. For the setup I outlined in the sidebar, you are
probably looking at just several hundred dollars. While two Clownfishes can live in a tank as
small as 10 gallons, most beginning aquarists will be more successful
starting off with something a bit larger. The reason for this is
simple; say there is a minor mishap. An error diluted over 10
gallons could be much more tragic than the same error diluted over
twice the volume. For that reason, I would strongly urge you to
purchase a minimum of a 20-gallon tank. And, of course, something
larger will give you more options for adding additional pets in the
future. Once you have selected and purchased a suitable
size aquarium, choose a location in your home where it can be easily
viewed and enjoyed. While a child may desire to have the tank in
their room, the rest of the family cannot see it, appreciate it, nor
notice when something is going awry. A living room or family room
is a much better choice. There are a few additional considerations as
far as placement goes. The aquarium should not be near a window,
as direct sunlight may fuel unwanted algae and necessitate frequent
cleaning. Also, drafts from windows or heating and cooling ducts
could cause significant temperature fluctuations in a smaller
aquarium. Dramatic shifts in temperature are unhealthy for the
inhabitants and should be avoided. Third, be sure that the tank
and stand are flat and level. It is much easier to take care of
this now while everything is empty. Another thing that is much
easier to do while the tank is empty is attach the background.
This will permit removing the tank or spinning it around to make it
much more convenient to securely adhere the background. Fourth,
consider that having the tank located somewhere near a sink will make
maintenance that much easier and more likely to get done. No
matter what your child says, you know you are going to be the one
taking care of this pet. Make it as easy on yourself as
possible. Lastly, the tank must be situated near an electrical
outlet and remember to leave space behind the aquarium for the filters
that will hang off of the back and for the wires.
Once
an appropriate location has been decided upon, the assembly can
begin. Please note that no fish should be brought home the same
day that the equipment is purchased. Their new home must be setup
first or else the fish could be killed due to insufficiently mix
saltwater or some sort of mechanical problem - and break the
child's heart. The first thing to do would be to begin
treating the tap water for chlorine and mixing the saltwater in
buckets. Do not use the bucket that you use to mop the floor, as
any kind of cleaning chemicals can be fatal to your fish.
Purchase several buckets for fish use only. Follow the directions
on the labels, but realize that it is much easier to add just a bit
more salt to the mix than it is to dilute water with too high a
concentration of salt. And please always check with a clean
hydrometer (salt concentration testing device) what the actual salinity
is. Don't just rely on the instructions on the salt
mix. The exact amount of salt is crucial to the proper health of
your pet fish.
What
I am going to describe for you is what is referred to as a Fish Only
With Live Rock setup or a FOWLR display. It is a more natural
methodology for caring for ornamental marine tropicals. While
there are many other acceptable ways to provide a proper environment, I
prefer this method, as it is functional, relatively easy to maintain in
comparison to other methodologies, and aesthetically pleasing.
Equipment Checklist for a Clownfish only tank (Sidebar)
q Standard 20-gallon tank q Background (I prefer a solid color, blue or black, as this shows the fish better) q Hood with fluorescent light (fluorescent lighting gives the tank a far better color and appearance than incandescent lighting) q Aquarium stand (not a rickety end table) q 20 pounds of live sand q 30 pounds of live rock q Protein skimmer (A Red Sea Prizm would be a fine choice for up to a 30 gallon tank. If you think you may upgrade to a larger tank in the near future an Aqua-C Remora, CPR Bak-Pak 2R, or Precision Marine HOT-1 would be a good investment.) q Two ~100 gallon per hour powerheads for water motion (models from Aquarium Systems or Hagen are good choices) q 100-watt submersible heater (Aquarium Systems, Ebo-Jager, Marineland, and Tetra all make fine units) q Thermometer q Test kits for pH, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate (Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Dry-Tab test kits are reliable and easy to use) q Hydrometer q Salt mix (I have always used and liked Instant Ocean or Reef Crystals) q Dechlorinater q Buckets for mixing q Gravel siphon for changing water q Algae pad/scraper (be sure to get a model appropriate for the tank's material - glass or acrylic) q Net q Power
strip (like the ones used for computers) to plug in all the electrical
devices
Into
the aquarium add enough live sand so that when it is evenly distributed
it is approximately one inch deep. At this point, I would put all
the mechanicals in place; pumps, heater, and protein skimmer.
This way when you add your live rock and decorations you can attempt to
cover and disguise this items. Just don't plug anything on
yet. Most all aquarium devices are designed to operate submersed
in water. Operating in air (what is referred to as running dry)
will damage them. Now place the live rock into the
aquarium. Be sure to work the first few pieces down into the sand
so that they end up resting securely on the bottom. This will
prevent settling of the rockwork and provide a stable footing for
subsequently higher placed pieces. Continue adding the rest of
the rock while attempting to create an open looking display. Try
to build caves, crevices, and overhangs versus a brick wall. Once
you are satisfied with the layout and look of the aquascaping, you can
begin to pour in the mixed saltwater. Try to avoid dumping the
water directly onto the sand, as this will quickly turn the display
into a cloudy mess. A trick it to place a small bowl or plate
onto the sand and then to slowly pour the water onto it. This
basically cushions and absorbs the force of the falling water.
When the tank is filled, you can turn everything on and see your
finished masterpiece.
Now
that it is full and running you are probably going to be tempted to run
out and buy some fish to stock it. Don't do this just
yet. You have to allow the live rock and sand time to fully cure
and the tank time to cycle. This means merely giving the system
time to develop the bacteria that will help to support the tank's
inhabitants. This can take anywhere from one week to one month
depending on the live rock and sand. Use the test kits to monitor
the progress. Once the ammonia and nitrite are both zero and
holding, you can add your fish few fish. In the case of the
twenty-gallon tank outlined here, that would be a pair of small
Ocellaris Clownfish. After one month, if ammonia and nitrite are
still absent, you could introduce another tank mate or two.
Unfortunately, while properly housing Marlin and Nemo is going to be
relatively easy and inexpensive, bringing home Dory is another matter
completely. Dory-type fish are known by whole host of common
names in the hobby: Blue Regal Tang, Hippo Tang, Pacific Blue
Surgeonfish, Palette Tang, or Blue Yellowtail Surgeonfish. The
scientific name for this fish is Paracanthurs hepatus. One
of the problems with keeping one of these fish is their full-grown
size. They grow up to a foot long as adults! While there
are many juveniles offered for sale, not being prepared to house it as
an adult is inappropriate. The smallest appropriate tank for one
of these is 90 gallons. Anything smaller than that is
cruel. Think of it much in the same way as caring for a
dog. If you were to bring home a puppy Saint Bernard and try to
keep it in a cage/kennel meant for a Toy Poodle, the ASPCA would have
you arrested for animal cruelty. Fish should be thought of in the
same way - as cherished family pets.
One
of the other problems associated with Hepatus Tangs is their
tendency to become sickly. They have a strong propensity to
contract a variety of parasitic infections, especially marine Ich or
Cryptocaryon. This infection is so prevalent with this
species that many people refer to this fish as the "Ich
magnet". There is another health concern with this
particular fish. There is a practice in some parts of the world,
namely the Philippines and Indonesia, of collecting some fish using
cyanide to "temporarily anesthetize" the fish and make it
easier to catch. I put these words in quotes because it does far
more than that. The cyanide does permanent damage to the fish and
many times while they survive the initial exposure, death is almost
certain later. Currently there are several trade associations
working to eliminate this practice, but unfortunately it is still with
us. Purchasing Hepatus Tangs that originate from Hawaii,
or if they come from elsewhere, are guaranteed net caught (you may be
able to find a limited number of fish that have been certified net
caught by the Marine Aquarium Council, MAC for short), or were raised
from larvae is a reasonable assurance that this particular specimen is
safe from cyanide poisoning.
If
you intend to house a Dory-type fish, I would still recommend a FOWLR
setup. It is just that everything needs to be bigger; aquarium,
pumps, protein skimmer, and amounts of live rock and sand. Again,
a competent, experienced aquarium professional should be able to help
guide you. One last piece of "equipment" I would
like to mention is a good book. While I have hopefully outlined
much of the basics here, this is a rather broad stroke at a vast and
addictive hobby. If long-term success is desired, I would
recommend investing in a couple of good books. Any of the
publications mentioned in the bibliography would be fine, but I wanted
to point out two in particular. Michael Paletta's "The
New Marine Aquarium" is an excellent book for the general
beginning saltwater hobbyist. It is only 140 pages or so, with
pictures and illustrations, and written in very comfortable language,
so it should be a quick read. It will provide a more in depth
discussion than what could be provide here on topics such as equipment
selection, setup, compatibility issues with fishes, selection of
healthy individuals, some disease diagnosis and treatment information,
and ongoing maintenance. Scott Michael's "Marine
Fishes" is a very handy reference covering the 500+ most popular
saltwater aquarium fishes. It has pictures and a brief summary
for each fish discussing adult size, suitable volume aquarium, feeding,
hardiness, compatibility, and general care notes. Hopefully, I have put you on the right road to becoming a successful hobbyist. Like anything in life, the more you put into it, the more you will get back out of it. Be sure to continue to read more about aquarium keeping. The more educated you are, the better your tank will look, the healthier and longer lived your fish will be, and the fish won't dread coming home with you like they did with Darla. References: Allen, Dr. Gerald R. and Daphne G. Fautin. 1994.
Anemone Fishes and Their Host Sea Anemones.
Tetra Press: Blacksburg, VA. Fenner, Robert M. 1998. The
Conscientious Marine Aquarist. Microcosm Ltd: Shelburne,
Vermont. Michael, Scott. 2001. Marine
Fishes. T.F.H. Publications, Inc.: Neptune City, NJ.
Paletta, Michael. 2001. The New
Marine Aquarium. T.F.H. Publications, Inc.: Neptune City,
NJ. Tullock, John. 2002. "Anemonefishes: The
First Part." Tropical Fish Hobbyist, March 2002.
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