FAQs about Rhinecanthus Triggerfishes
Disease/Health
Related FAQs: Rhinecanthus
Triggers 1, Rhinecanthus Triggers
2, Rhinecanthus Trigger ID,
Rhinecanthus Trigger Behavior,
Rhinecanthus Trigger
Compatibility, Rhinecanthus
Trigger Selection, Rhinecanthus
Trigger Systems, Rhinecanthus
Trigger Feeding, Rhinecanthus
Trigger Reproduction, Triggerfishes
in General, Triggerfish: Identification,
Selection, Selection 2,
Compatibility,
Behavior, Systems,
Feeding,
Diseases,
Triggerfish Health
2, Reproduction,
Related Articles: Triggerfish, Rhinecanthus
Species, Red Sea
Triggerfishes,
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Triggerfishes for Marine Aquariums
Diversity, Selection & Care
New eBook on Amazon: Available here
New Print Book on Create Space: Available
here
by Robert (Bob) Fenner
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Huma Possible Swim Bladder Issue
6/5/19
Hi Bob and team,
<Hey Siena>
I have a young (barely 1”) Picasso trigger who has been in my system for 5
months and has recently begun exhibiting some concerning symptoms of what may be
a swim bladder issue. It’s a bit of a mystery I’m hoping you can help me out
with, so I’m providing a wealth of details. Brace yourself for a long read.
<Hotay>
Some history: He started in my 50 gal DT and was the lone survivor (no symptoms)
of a bacterial outbreak about two weeks after he was added to the system (4.5
months ago).
At this point we quarantined him in a 10gal for 30 days to let the DT bacteria
die off, then he lived alone with inverts in the DT for 2.5 months. (No invert
casualties, though we were prepared for that, and he did try. But I digress.)
After putting some thought into his future, we started working on building a 120
gal system that would be a better environment for him, with the idea of going
even larger down the road. Unfortunately its development course forced us to
plunder the 50 gal, so we moved him to a 10 gal tank with live substrate, live
rock, and wetted filtration media plundered from the DT. It’s up on the kitchen
counter because he’s a very personable, curious fish and the only way I feel at
all comfortable with having him in such a small tank, even temporarily, is by
putting him in the middle of everything so he can interact with us constantly,
which he does. He hasn’t exhibited signs of boredom that I’m watching for, like
pacing or chasing his reflection. We hit some snags with the 120 gal plumbing,
and he’s been in the 10 gal for 2 months now.
<Okay>
Four days ago he started exhibiting some unusual behavior - he usually wakes up
when we do and comes out of his rock to demand food, but he started laying
upright (belly down) on the sand in the front corner of the tank. It seemed to
take him some time to wake up and then some time to gain buoyancy, though he
never had any issues staying upright and was moving normally, if a bit
sluggishly, once he was up. Two days later he stayed in the rock and only came
out for food (Mysis and squid, which we soaked in Prazi that day as a
precaution), which he didn’t eat as aggressively as usual. We tried a wavemaker
to increase the current, air exchange and stimulation, but it was a bit strong,
so we turned it off. This is his second day without eating. He was out today in
that front corner and had trouble getting up. He started panicking when he
couldn’t move and eventually got up okay, but had trouble controlling his pitch
and yaw (up/down, left/right), though he had no rolling issues (stayed upright
pretty okay). He bobbed the surface a few times like he was trying to jump or
gulp air. Then he floated around with very little control besides staying
upright until he made his way into his rock and has been resting there ever
since. We’ve tested everything we can think of these past few days:
Nitrates/ites zero, ammonia zero, pH ~7.8 which is within the wide range marine
aquarium recommendation but slightly low for Huma-specific recommendations -
thoughts on this? Salinity 1.022. Out of concern for oxygen content we just
added an airstone. Unfortunately we did find out today that the thermometer that
came with the tank he’s in reads 4 degrees F higher than it should, and was at
72 degrees the entire time he’s been in it. We’ve slowly raised that to 77.6, a
little higher than I usually keep my tanks in response to the suspect swim
bladder issue. He has no signs of physical injuries, no discoloration, his color
swings are normal (light when he’s asleep, medium otherwise even when resting,
less emotive with his colors than normal), breathing is normal speed and
heaviness, no signs of parasites. His belly does look slightly bloated,
especially considering he hasn’t eaten in two days. I haven’t noticed any
abnormal poop, though he’s always seemed to poop when I’m not looking so I can’t
tell you he’s actually pooping normally - constipation is a possibility?
<Mmm; not likely.>
To try and eliminate the one additional possible source of issues we did a 50%
water change with DI water, instead of our usual tap water treated with Prime.
An RO/DI system is on its way. We have three other fish in another tank fed off
the same water system, and all have been very healthy except for one clownfish
that today just gave a nice stringy white poop. They’re about to get some Prazi
soaked food as well.
Of course in all irony, we’re finally in a place where we can move our Huma to a
larger system.
<I would do so w/o reservation>
If his current condition is environmental stress/boredom related, this might be
a good move. On the other hand it could easily stress him out more. Any
recommendations on what next steps to take, medications to use, and at what
point we should consider more drastic measures of getting him to eat? (I’ve seen
one aquarist literally pick up his trigger and use a syringe to feed… Our Huma
isn’t used to handling so this is a last resort option from a stress
standpoint.) Also…after our initial round of bad luck we’ve gotten pretty good
at shutting down the emotional side of losing fish, but this Huma holds a
special place in our hearts and it would kill us to lose him. I appreciate any
help you can give!
Thanks,
Siena
<I fully suspect the issue here is psychological... being in too small a world.
I would be moving this fish, now. Bob Fenner>
Re: Huma Possible Swim Bladder Issue
6/5/19
Side note - he’s always flat out refused to eat anything with veggies in it like
our Spectrum pellets, so I’m not optimistic about getting him to eat peas or
anything if he’s not even eating shrimp. We’ve been considering forcing him to
accept pellets by only feeding pellets for a few days, but we’re soft-hearted
fish parents and haven’t gone to those lengths yet.
<Move this fish. BobF>
Re: Huma Possible Swim Bladder Issue
6/5/19
I just reread both of these messages 4 times and holy crap he’s constipated
isn’t he?? Running to get Seachem Kanaplex and Epsom salts (I’m skeptical but
why not). Also will move towards more drastic measures of getting him to eat
anything, preferably peas and garlic.
<You could try a modicum of MgSO4... safe... B>
Re: Huma Possible Swim Bladder Issue
6/5/19
Just caught sight of him again, and now I’m second guessing. He’s a bit
emaciated, which is to be expected with no food, and I’m not really seeing the
bloat like before. He’s breathing a bit shallow and is on the low color end, and
is very weak. He has short bouts where he swims stably, then will rest wherever
he stops. I did everything I could to get him to eat, but I can’t tell if he
took a few bites or was just twitching wanting to get away. At this point I’m
thinking intestinal parasites. At some point I should be considering force
feeding, right? I’m sure there’s a tube small enough for a 1” trigger somewhere
I could find.
<... Please re-read my responses. B>
Trigger, hlth.
8/14/16
As always let me begin by thanking all of you for your time. I have
received help many times from your site and various volunteers.
<Ah, welcome>
I have a 7 year old 60 gallon reef tank. I had a tank wipeout a year and
a
half ago when I added an new fish to my previously closed system and did
not qt him. This was stupid. I believed crypt wouldn't happen to me. All
died except for a goby I've had for 5 years now. I waited 8 weeks and
tried
a new fish and have tried various inhabitants in staggered intervals and
they live a month, 4 months, 6 months. But they all perish eventually. I
understand now I have crypt (Ich) in my tank.
<Actually, it is very common... that folks have resident, latent
infestations of Crypt... It showing clinically with some sorts of excess
stress>
I believe the goby is keeping this parasite alive. I am setting up a 20
gallon qt today. I have the goby, a fat and happy clownfish with no
symptoms (I've had him 2 months) and a baby Picasso triggerfish (2
weeks)
that arrived emancipated. He eats like a pig, I feed Selcon soaked Mysis
3
times a day (a cube total in a day) as I'm trying to fatten him up. He
arrived with fin damage. It is getting worse. His flesh looks like it's
deteriorating. One black spot on fin. He's outgoing and vigorous but
looks
worse everyday. I bought a new testing kit. Ph is 7.8.
<About as low as I'd let it get... Would be bolstering (adding
alkalinity)
via supplemented water in changes. Am a huge fan of the SeaChem lines
here. >
No detectable ammonia, no detectable nitrites, no detectable nitrate.
<No NO3? Odd>
I run an amazing Octopus skimmer. For water polishing I have a Aqueon
filter with floss I rinse every few days. I run carbon in it once a
month.
My questions I'd love help with are; how do I proceed? Does the trigger
have Ich/crypt?
<Can't say... w/o sampling, microscopic examination; could be; but there
are likely a few secondary issues here>
A bacterial infection? Do I qt all the fish?
<Depends on root cause/s. There may well be "something" awry
environmentally... a source of poisoning/toxicity... Metal? Organic? I'd
run Polyfilter for a week to look for tell-tale color... and use Boyd's
ChemiPure as your source of carbon (and more) to remove potential
chemical
issues>
What do I do with the cleaner shrimp?
<Leave it in the main system>
How do I treat the fish in qt?
<FIND out, determine WHAT the real issue/s are here first>
I've read a dozen articles and I feel more and more confused. I will do
whatever it takes. I have live rock with mushroom
<Some aspect of these may be at fault. Put the words: "toxicity",
"allelopathy" and LR alone and Mushrooms alone in the WWM search tool
(found on every page) and read re>
but will empty and do whatever it takes do finally guarantee the health
of
my fish. Any help is much appreciated by my fish and I. I have not tried
to
be lazy or ignorant. I love this hobby and enjoy the research and
patience
required. I fear I've let my inhabitants down.
Thank you,
Sarah
<The reading now, and then let's chat. Bob Fenner>
Trigger picture 8/14/16
<Mmm; this fish looks starved. Please see WWM re Triggerfish/Balistid
foods/feeding/nutrition. Bob Fenner>
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Re: Trigger 8/15/16
Thank you Bob for you thoughtful (and quick) reply. I wondered about my Ph
and Nitrate numbers as well. I've never messed with Ph
<Not usually necessary... in well set up (whatever this is... w/ adequate
hard/calcareous substrates) and maintained (frequent partial water changes,
use of skimming, ozone...) and not over or mis fed systems>
but will get a Seachem product for it via Amazon now. I haven't tested for
nitrate in a few years. Back then I always had around 40. The nitrate is a
new API test. I followed instructions carefully and the water in the vial
remained light yellow, not registering any nitrates.
<Mmm; I'd get/use other than this low end colorimetric assay. Not API; see
WWM re>
I will do the test again. I run poly filter now. When I rinse it out its a
purplish/reddish color.
<Mmm; it may be you have too much iron from somewhere... or this could be
indicative of biological coloring>
I will purchase Boyd's Chemipure via Amazon. Regarding the allelopathy; per
your advice a month and a half ago for my pop eyed coral beauty I rehomed my
Kenya tree coral and now only have blue mushrooms, maybe 50-75 of them. I
did a 25% water change and ran carbon. He died 3 weeks later. So I only have
one type of mushroom and no other corals. Should I remove the mushrooms?
<I would keep their herd thinned back... perhaps one polyp per five gallons>
Should I get a UV sterilizer?
<Worth considering>
I sent you a picture of my trigger, he does indeed look starved. In the week
and a half I've had him I've been trying to fatten him; I am feeding
him small amounts often.
<Good>
A total of 1 mysis cube for the tank a day, with Selcon.
<I would expand this diet; use a high quality pellet food (Hikari, Spectrum)
as basic staple.>
Perhaps he had an internal parasite?
<Could be. See WWM re triggers, Rhinecanthus re.. maybe a treatment of
Praziquantel, and...?>
I purchased a Tsunami coral insert from Fosters and Smith as I cannot have
multiple corals due to allelopathy. Do you have any experience with these
faux inserts?
<Not this line, no>
It is supposedly reef tank safe.
<Am almost for sure it would be. The folks at Dr.s F and S are quite capable
and careful re choosing products>
Thank you for your time, I am always amazed that you share your expertise
with us and cannot express my appreciation enough.
Sarah
<Thank you for sharing. Bob Fenner>
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Picasso trigger in QT tank
10/3/13
<You're an order of magnitude over our limited/stated file size.
Surprised your mail wasn't sent to junk>
Hi all at WWM,
I currently have a Picasso trigger in a quarantine tank prior to entry
into my 125 FOWLR. I am glad I added him to the QT tank as within
a few days, a growth began to form above his mouth (on his snout/nose?).
There were no signs of an injury, and he seems to be in good health and
spirits other than that. Eats like a pig
<Neat! Part of the translation of the Humu/Hawaiian name... "water pig
w/ a needle" (the last in ref. to the dorsal spine)>
and already comes almost half way out of the water to beg for food.
The growth however, continued to grow and I made the call just to wait
and observe for a bit to see what happened. It has been about 3
weeks now and the crusty/pimple like growth is still present. In
addition, when I went to feed him this am, I noticed (couldn't not
notice) that he had a large
tape/string like object coming out of his rear. It reminds me of
(or looks like) a very small empty sausage casing. I have attached
pictures of both.
My questions are, 1. Any idea what these can be?
<Mark, growth in response to a mechanical injury almost assuredly>
.... and 2. how can I go about treating him prior to removal from the
QT?
<I wouldn't>
Thanks again for any help!
Dillon
<Move this fish. Bob Fenner>
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Picasso Trigger very ill, please help!
4/24/13
Gents, I have a Picasso Trigger that hasn't been very well for
the last 2 days. Sitting on the bottom and not moving or eating.
<Mmm>
It's hanging in there but only just. I've tested the water both at home
and at the local LFS and it all looks fine. I've had the fish for nearly
year in a 400 litre tank without any problems. He's probably my
favourite fish and I'd be gutted to lose him. Even though the water
readings were good, I performed a 40 litre water change. I also treated
the tank with Oodinex which has been used previous top treat white spot
(though, there is no sign of this on the Trigger). Coincidentally I also
lost a Hawkfish recently and these are the first fish I have lost for
about 6 months.
<Do you suspect the loss may be related?>
The tank mates, including 3 cardinals, Regal Tank, Lemon Tang,
<These tangs may have slashed the trigger>
Lionfish
<Or more likely the Lion poked it... and the lost Cirrhitid>
and 2 clowns all appear to be fine. Any advice you could provide would be
most welcome. I'm desperate!!! Many thanks, Dan
<I do hope your Rhinecanthus recovers... I would trade the Lion out. Bob
Fenner>
Rectangle Trigger not eating
4/2/13
After months of searching, I was finally able to purchase a
juvenile Rectangle Trigger, approximately 1.5" long. He ate
immediately, and throughout most of tank transfer (where I was
using 10g tanks), which lasted
13 days or so. However, since the final day of tank transfer he has been
reluctant to eat much at all.
<Not unusual w/ small fishes being moved about; even triggers>
He is now in my 29g QT that I have dosed with PraziPro,
where he has been since the morning of 3/31 - and still won't
eat much at all. I've seen him bite an NLS pellet or two in half, and
once or twice he has eaten a very small piece of fresh scallops
(previously frozen and then thawed) and a small chunk of frozen Mysis. I
soak the food in Selcon every other try, but it never seems to make a
difference.
To me, he looks a little thin, and I'm worried that something else is
going on with him. I dropped in a live littleneck clam on the half shell
last night, and he didn't touch it. On top of that, he has been swimming
slowly from one end of the tank to the other, at the top of the surface.
I have tried offering him other seafood, but he literally swims right
past it.
Water parameters are all perfect, as the water is only a few days old,
so I can rule that out. Am I overlooking something here, and is there
something else that I can try and convince him to eat?
<This small fish is likely simply frightened, stressed, even perhaps a
bit lonely>
I'd really like to avoid live foods if possible, because I don't want that
to be an issue once he is moved
into my 90g FOWLR.
Mahalo,
Nick Panaccio
<I would move this animal to the main tank, now. Bob Fenner>
Humu parasite;
not 12/31/11
Aloha crew,
<Erik>
I was hoping that maybe you guys could give me some advice on
what to do next with this fish. He has what appears to be
an external parasite on his soft dorsal fin (see picture).
<Mmm, I see this white dot>
Now the fish has been in .21ppm Cu for a week now (since i
received him in) and was just yesterday put in a freshwater dip
with Methylene blue for 10 minutes.
Still the spot does not seem to be changing. Any thoughts
or idea on where to go from here?
<Yes... into the main/display tank. This is not likely a
parasite at all... but a blem from a reaction/bent fin
spine>
He is in QT (although with a few Chromis as well). I do
have an empty tank that i could set up for another QT if you
think i should change up the copper with something else (not sure
how well copper treats these guys). What do you guys
think? More of the same (with a few more dips) or something
different?
<Diff... move it>
With Cu in
the system should i be worried about my Chromis becoming
infected?
<Nope>
Mahalo for your time and effort, you guys have such a great
site.
Erik
<A hu'i hou! Bob Fenner>
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Rhinecanthus aculeatus Trigger, hlth., nutr.
3/8/2010
We need some advice. We have a twelve year old Rhinecanthus aculeatus
Trigger who until a week ago was extremely active and healthy. Last
year he broke two teeth and ended up knocking them out.
<Happens, but still... ouch!>
Since then he has eaten fine and been a great fish. Last week the teeth
that have been gone a year started to come back in. He got until he
wouldn't eat. We saw no signs of infection but treated him with
Maracyn for one week. Just in case there was an internal infection. At
the end of the treatment he seemed only slightly more interested in
food. Now he seems to be having issues seeing. He runs into rocks and
isn't eating at all.
His mouth is still swollen but from looking at other postings when a
trigger goes blind it is due to vitamin issues.
<Mmm, could well be a "nutritional deficiency" at play
here. Do you supplement foods with vitamins, HUFAs, iodide? I would add
these periodically to foods, and the water if the fish/es aren't
eating>
Is this the case or could some of his vision issues be tied to his
recent re-growth of teeth.
<Interesting to speculate. I do not know>
Any information would be greatly appreciated
<Do see WWM re the nutritional items listed here; their
supplementation for marines. Bob Fenner>
Re: Rhinecanthus aculeatus Trigger 3/8/10
Thank you for replying. After reading some of the posting about
nutritional deficiencies we did go to our local aquarium store and ask
about supplements that could be added to the tank. They didn't
really have a lot of knowledge about this but suggested that we try
"Vita Chem" made by Boyd Enterprises. Is this a good
choice?
<It is a good product>
We have dosed the food as well as placing a small amount in the tank. I
will go to WWM and look over the suggested supplements list. We will
keep you posted. Thanks so much!!!!
<Welcome! BobF>
Trigger dental work? 2/9/10
Howdy crew, I purchased a Picasso Trigger about 2 weeks ago from
an LFS and it may not have been a good purchase, as I think his
teeth may be overgrown.
<Does appear so>
I asked if they would feed him for me so they dropped in some
flake food and he ate it. I should have been concerned then about
the flake food, but I've dealt with them in the past and not
had problems.
The trigger gets excited when I drop in krill, silversides,
clams, or squid in the tank and he will stay near the puffer to
clean up his scraps.
He hardly seems to be actually eating anything though (except
some flake that I bought to try to get him to eat something) and
seems thinner than when I got him. He looks different than
pictures of Picasso's I find on the
net, almost like his mouth is stuck open. Also when he comes up
to the top to get the flake I hear a clicking noise which I'm
attributing to teeth clicking. I've read that triggers grunt,
but I definitely don't think I could call this noise a
grunt.
<Balistids also make noise by articulating their dorsal
spines, pectoral girdles>
If the teeth are overgrown, is it possible to do any dental work
similar to what is done to puffers?
<Oh yes>
I think I'd rather try to do something than let him slowly
starve to death.
<Agreed>
-125 gallon tank/ 170 total water volume
-5" porcupine puffer
-4" Picasso trigger
-12" snowflake eel
-all water specs are good and everyone is active
-no signs of aggression between anyone
Thanks for your help!
I'm really sorry the pics are so bad, hopefully they're
enough to see what I'm referring to.
<They are of use. Please read here re a S.O.P.:
http://wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_2/cav2i1/puffer_dentistry/puffer2.htm
Bob Fenner>
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Picasso Trigger dying 1/02/10
Hey there, Happy New Year!
<And you Gary>
I have a 4" Picasso Trigger who is my main show piece in my tank
along with
Hippo tang - 6"
Yellow Tang - 5"
2 Clownfish - 1"
Foxface - 5"
Damsel - 2"
100+- lb live rock
100 live sand
A couple days ago the Trigger retreated under a rock and hasn't
been himself, his belly looks pinched, labored breathing, and all and
hasn't eaten in a couple days.
<Mmm, how long have/had you had this fish? Was it treated
prophylactically in recent times?>
I moved him to QT this AM (2/3 new water 1/3 tank water) and he has
taken a turn for the worse, tried to hand feed shrimp and krill but no
luck. I added Vita Chem to the QT to try to get some vitamins in him
and regularly soak food in it and add to tank weekly. Once in QT I
noticed his top fin shows some signs of fin rot although not in a
terrible way. I originally thought it could be him getting picked on
and fin nipped but just not sure the other inhabitants would be able in
inflict that kind of damage to him over just a couple days and have
never seen anyone nip at the trigger. At this point he was lying on
bottom of the QT sideways barely breathing
<Typically "frightened" behavior for most
Balistids>
so I figured one last ditch effort to save him and treated the QT with
1/2 dose of Para Guard by Seachem. I didn't want to go full dose in
case he was sensitive to it and in case I was wrong about the fin rot
diagnosis - its just so hard to tell. His belly is pinched and at one
point in the QT (about an hour ago) he was completely upside down but
still breathing. I added a little more vita Chem to hopefully boost his
system but just not sure if its too late to do anything else. I covered
the QT with a towel to keep the light low so he can recover (the QT is
in the kitchen which gets a lot of natural light). When I did that he
reacted to it and righted himself and is sitting up in the bottom
(still in bad shape) but haven't checked on him in 20-30
minutes.
Water Parameters
Ammonia - 0
Nitrite - 0
Nitrate - 10
PH - 8.2
Calcium - 450
The clowns and yellow tang are new to the tank, about 2-3 weeks.
<Not that it might be directly of consequence, but were these new
specimens quarantined?>
He has not regularly hidden under rocks except when I first got him and
now, he is usually always roaming the tank when I wake up. Any help or
advice you can offer will be great, I have been "reading on"
all over WWM for clues and diagnosis but ran out of good leads on this
one.
<Mmm, well, there might be something internal, "brought
in" with this fish, at root/cause here... With what little
you've presented, I myself am inclined to suggest returning the
Rhinecanthus to the main system... Much less stressful than the
quarantine system. You might gain solace, insight through reading here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FishInd3.htm
the fourth to last tray... on Trigger Dis., the various genera of
Balistids Health FAQs files. Bob Fenner>
Re: Picasso Trigger dying -- 01/03/10
Thanks for the reply - I got him about 3 months ago (he unfortunately
passed this morning or sometime during the night in QT).
<Ahh>
I thought about moving him back last night but thought it might stress
even more to make another move. I actually did QT the clowns and Tang
for 2 weeks before adding to the show tank.
<Good>
Still stumped and bummed but the silver lining is I can now convert my
FOWLR to Reef...thanks again
<Thank you for this follow-up Gary. Some fish groups more than
others... but Triggers/Balistids do at times "die
mysteriously"... who can say... from "too much stress?".
Perhaps types of internal complaints. I would not have this incident
sway you from trying another Rhinecanthus sp. sometime down the road.
Cheers, BobF>
Re: Picasso Trigger dying 1/4/10
Thanks again for the reply Bob - just ordered your book (long overdue
but looking forward to the read)
Gary Nash
<Ahh! Am sure you will enjoy, gain by its perusal. Cheers,
BobF>
Trigger sad, Poor Environment 1/29/08 Hello,
<Hi> I searched through a lot of posts here and found similar
problems, but not exact. I know it's small but this is in my office
at work so I cant' go with a big tank. I have a 20 gallon high with
about 20 pounds of live rock and a Picasso trigger a little less than 2
inches. <Doomed in this sized tank.> I run an Aquaclear 200, Red
Sea Protein skimmer, Aquaclear 20 powerhead and 80 watts of lighting.
The water tests fine and I do frequent changes. <"Fine" is
relative, exact numbers next time please.> The tank is blooming with
life, Copepods, Arthropods, Inverts of various types, Macro algae (came
on the rock) which attests to the quality of the water. Ok that's
out of the way. My Trigger was in the tank with to Damsel mates. Two
weekends ago, I came in and observed the trigger acting skittish and
hiding. The blue Damsel was acting like he took over the tank like the
Alpha male. I assume they duked it out and the Trigger lost.
<Probably, the damsels are very aggressive.> For a few days I
observed his cowardliness and did some research and discovered that
they must have had a tick. I placed the damsel in my quarantine tank
and the Trigger came out of hiding soon after. The other damsel started
to give him a hard time and he did they same thing. I removed the
second damsel. <He is not healthy so he is low man in the pecking
order.> Now he doesn't eat that I can see (food goes right past
his face with no reaction) and doesn't swim around much at all.
<Not good.> Mostly he sits in his hole, or wiggles slowly with
his nose against the glass like he is sad now. His lack of eating is
worrying me now since he was a hardy eater. I just bought a small tank
raised Clown to put in there with him for company. <Also can be
quite aggressive, are members of the damsel family.> I'm not
worried if things don't turn out too good for the Clown. <Bad
news for the clown.> What do you think might be his problem, and do
you think he will die soon? <Yes, if kept in a 20 gallon tank he
will not last long, it is just not a suitable environment for him and
you are seeing it begin to take it toll.> Thanks in advance for your
help. Keith <Welcome> <Chris>
Huma Huma Trigger with a swollen jaw... over and
mis-stocking, and? 11/6/07 I have had a my Huma Huma
Trigger for about a year and to date he has been relatively healthy.
Approximately 3-4 moths ago, he survived Ich which affected my entire
tank. <Does... the fishes> Recently I have noticed that each
morning, his eyes appear to be "bugging" out of his head and
later in the day he appears back to normal. <Okay> The last few
days, I haven't seen any problem with his eyes, but his jaw is
swelling. It looks as if he went a couple of rounds with a boxer and
lost. <Good description> I've searched around on the site,
but haven't found much help. Can you offer any direction? <Mmm,
well... could be an after affect of whatever chemical/medication
exposure this fish suffered... Perhaps this is coupled or instead due
to some nutritional deficiency, water quality anomaly, ingestion of
some noxious organism, genetic predisposition...> Tank info: 50 gal
<Too small... for this species> with two Pacific Blue Tangs, one
Niger Trigger <Ditto and incompatible with the Odonus> and One
Lunar Wrasse. <And too small for this Thalassoma as well> {I used
this tank as a hospital tank when I had a huge ich problem. Main tank
is 170 gallons.} All appear healthy since we defeated Ich. <How?>
I was considering transferring all of the fish back to the main tank
and placing some schooling fish in this tank when my Huma starts having
this issue. All of the fish including the Huma are very active and
eating well. He will even nip my finger if I put it on the surface of
the water. He doesn't act like he's sick, but sure looks that
way. Thank you in advance for any help you can provide. <Well... you
do need to move all out to larger quarters... I would try bolstering
their immune systems via supplementing their foods... and hope. Bob
Fenner>
SICK Huma Huma Trigger; research, patience 3/1/07
Hello, I really hope that you can help me. <Hello, and
so do I. GrahamT with you today.> I purchased an established tank
about 2.5 months ago. The tank is a 46 gallon bow front with
10 lbs of live rock. <Far less than useful. A
*generalized* "rule of thumb" is 1:1 lbs/gallons. More is
better...> The tank had a 2" yellow tang, a 3" yellow
tang, a 4" Foxface and two damsels. <Too little
room for these species, excepting the damsels.> It has a Penguin 250
filter, a Penguin 350 filter and a SeaClone 100 protein
skimmer. <This protein skimmer is regularly touted as
one of the frequently regretted purchases among hobbyists...> When
we moved the tank we kept about 2/3 of the water. <Very
good idea.> After setting up the tank we had the water tested and
found out that it was extremely dirty (no detectable nitrite or
ammonia, but over 200 ppm nitrate). <Wow! Could have a
lot to do with stirring up the substrate, or even lack of water changes
on the previous owner's part...> We proceeded to do 6 water
changes in about a two week period bringing the nitrate down to 80
ppm. <Still very high, and likely stressing out your
inhabitants.> After the last water change the smaller yellow tang
died. <Mmm, what is your water source for the water
changes?> The next day the larger yellow tang would not eat and was
hiding. <Not a good sign...> A day later the large
yellow tang died. <Oh, even worse.> The guys at the
fish store told us it was probably due to the stress of moving them and
all the water changes. <Mmm, would not disagree, but
without knowing more about the mix you used for water changes...> I
waited two weeks and then purchased a Huma Huma Trigger. <D'oh!
Did the nitrates come down below 40ppm? Had the damsels seemed to look
better? (I know they may have looked fine the whole time) I hope this
purchase was based on better water conditions, and not JUST time gone
by.> A week after that I purchased a Flame Angelfish.
<I have to say, this sounds like someone wants to "fill"
their tank, rather than stock with appropriate selections and care for
them as appropriately. Patience and research is key to success in this
hobby.> It has been two weeks since I introduced the Huma and now it
has also stopped eating and is hiding. <This is very
abnormal behaviour. Triggers are notorious for the voracity. Unless
this is a very small specimen (under 1.5") then I suspect your
water quality has gotten away from you again.> Could this be
bacterial? <Anything is possible, but current water test
results are necessary in assisting you.> I don't have a QT tank
yet, do you have any suggestions on what I can do to save this
fish? <Take some water tests. Consider upgrading the
filtration and liverock compliment. Also, you didn't mention
whether you employ live sand or bare-bottom.> Also, the Flame Angel
has a white spot on her lip that has been there since I purchased
her. <Hmm... you should NEVER buy a fish that shows
symptoms of disease. Put a modest deposit on it and the LFS should be
happy to keep it QT'd until it looks better.> The fish store
said it was probably Lymphocystis and that it should go away on
it's own. <Could, but proper nutrition and water
conditions help more than time will.> However after a week it looks
like it is just getting worse and she now has a cloudy eye and a frayed
tail. <I think you need to get some test results
and reflect on your purchases. You have to keep in mind that these
animals depend on us and require us to know their needs, or else what
is the point in keeping them? I used to work at a retail fish store and
we regularly refused business from customers that we knew/suspected
were buying fish over and over again only to kill them through
ignorance/negligence and laziness. I will quote a phrase I use often:
Many folks leave the marine hobby in failure due to their lack of
understanding and its subsequent devastating consequences. Fish may be
purchased with problems you don't see and aren't responsible
for. My intention is not to place blame or to make you feel inadequate
or inferior. Most of us have made this mistake, or worse ones. We all
(hopefully) learn from our mistakes. I think that most of the crewers
here at WWM will agree that they hope to prevent the unfortunate
side-effects of improper selection and lack or research that they
themselves (myself included) have caused. The information you need to
be a successful hobbyist is out there (or here!) and you owe it to you
and your fish to use it.> Foxface and damsels are still doing
good. HELP PLEASE! <Use the Google search tool here for
your Centropyge loriculus's symptoms, and you will be directed to a
FAQ list of those symptoms. -GrahamT>
SICK Huma Huma Trigger; research, patience (pt.2) 3/2/07
Graham, <Hello again.> Thank you
for your response. <You are welcome! Is what we
do...> I really do want to keep these fish alive and I feel horrible
that I was probably the cause of their death. <Woah!
Don't be so quick to hate yourself here. You don't know what
the water conditions were when you purchased the system. You may have
practiced some patience, but in the end some of us need to make
mistakes to know their consequences.> I did purchase "The
Conscientious Marine Aquarist" book when I first got the tank
(before I added anything or did any water changes) and have read it
cover to cover twice. <A good read, no doubt.> In the
book it mentioned that there was no real proof that high nitrates
caused fish any harm and that most "fish only" systems run at
high rates. <This is true, there is no research into the
mortality of captive species that are housed in systems with too high
Nitrates. We do know, however, that the concentrations at sea are at or
near zero and that this is the environment we try hard to reproduce. I
would look at 40ppm as a "ceiling" for your FOWLR, with an
occasional peak into the 50's or 60's. This doesn't mean
that your fish won't be stressed about these levels, just that they
might get to that point before a water change. The other end of the
spectrum is where we work to keep the bio-load at a point where
Nitrates are maintained below 15ppm for FOWLR. It is possible to do
with well, regimented feeding and the addition of natural process
(Refugium, DSB) that abate these toxins. (All laid out in
"TCMA")> After seeing no visible signs of infection on the
tangs (i.e., no reddening, color change, etc) after they died I assumed
the guys at the fish store were correct by saying that they probably
died due to the stress of moving them and all the water
changes. <This is possible, but hard to confirm. Either
way, I find myself wondering if you have some contaminant in your
system. Have you looked over our link on toxic tank syndrome? (
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/toxictk.htm ) I ask because, though
damsels are very very hardy, triggers are pretty tough in their own
right.> This was the reason I purchased the huma and flame <Flame
angels are notoriously finicky about water conditions and stress
easily. A much more tolerant cousin is the Coral Beauty (Centropyge
bispinosa).> (I also did multiple water tests before purchasing
these two fish and everything checked out fine, <Relative. Numbers,
if you have them, are far more useful to me.> except the nitrates
were still high) <D'oh!>. I have since taken the
flame back to the fish store because I did not want her to get worse
and die. <A tough decision on your part. I think the
right one.> They are going to try to rehabilitate
her. The Huma has gotten worse, so I purchased a hospital
tank (10 gallon) filled it with water from my main tank and put the
Huma in that tank to begin treatment for a bacterial
infection. <What are his symptoms again? Other than not
eating, I don't remember you mentioning any outward signs. > I
does not look like he is going to make it. <Have you
considered treating with Lifeguard marketed by Instant Ocean? (
http://www.jlaquatics.com/phpstore/store_pages/details/medicine.php?product_ID=md-aslg016)
I mention it because it's a broad spectrum and rather gentle
treatment. Unfortunately, it is new enough that I don't have
experience with it, and there have been only a few blurbs that I've
read lately on it's use. On the good side, it seems very
promising!> Two questions: 1. I
don't plan on purchasing anymore fish for a VERY long time, but if
the Huma lives I need to know if it will be too crowded for
him.... My 46 gallon tank now has a Foxface (4") and
two damsels (1"). I am planning on upgrading to a 125
galloon tank next year. <If you are sure about the
timing of the 125-gallon, then you should be ok. Wait! You never
mentioned how big he is! Under 4 inches, he'd be ok for a year or
so. > How many fish could I keep HEALTHY in my 46 gallon tank for
the next year? <For clarification: You have two damsels
and a Foxface? With these inhabitants, and the trigger, you are well
(if not over) stocked.> Could I add the Huma back in or should I try
to upgrade to the 125 gallon now? <Would wait for a change in
behaviour from the trigger. You have moved him around quite a bit in
the past few weeks. That reminds me: did you ask whether the trigger
was caught or tank-raised?>
2. What can I do to get the nitrates
down? <Well: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nitratesmar.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nitratennr.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/denitrification_erfaqs.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nutrientcontrol.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/no3probfaqs.htm ...would help you
gain an understanding of the various opinions and techniques regarding
nitrates and the exportation/conversion.> (I use tap water for water
changes and condition it with PRIME and add CYCLE. Salt used
is CORAL LIFE) <Mmm... do you test your water before and
after mixing? It is possible that you have some unknown metals or other
contaminants in your tap water. I would consider trying to eliminate
that area of possible contamination by purchasing a small, effective
De-ionizer http://www.aquariumguys.com/tapwaterfilter.html . If you
can afford the up-front, then you could try an RO, but I like the DI
for it's low initial cost and you can set it aside guilt-free if
your tap water is actually fine after buffering. As far as Prime and
Cycle go, I'm not sure what you are trying to achieve by their use
in this instance. Prime is a dechlorinator/ammonia reducer, and useful
in cleaning up (to some degree) tapwater before using in a freshwater
setup. You may find it makes you feel better about using tapwater, but
I think you should invest in a better form of treatment here. Cycle,
IMO, is not worth trying, and I'm not sure what you are hoping for
in it's use. If you are medicating with anti-bacterials in a QT
then you will be killing off your nitrifying population, adding them
back is not how you counteract this, but with water changes. Frequent
water changes. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/quaranti.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/QuarMarFishes.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bestquarfaqs.htm > I have done
about 10 - 20% water changes in the past 2 months and they have gone
down from 200ppm to between 80 and 60 ppm but have not budged from the
high 80-60ppm. <See above.>
3. If the Huma lives how long should I keep him
in the hospital tank before moving him back to the main
tank? <No less than 4 weeks, but preferably 6-8. You
don't even know what he has, so premature introduction to the
display system may be, well, premature.> Also, is there something
more I can do for him besides treating him? <Keep his
environs pristine.> I am currently using a broad spectrum
anti-biotic because we have no idea what is wrong with him (no color
change, no spots) <See if you can entice him to eat live brine.
Maybe he's just too soon from the wild?>
Thanks again....I am still learning and I just don't
want to be the cause of anymore death. <A worthy cause. I applaud
you for trying and for pledging to be a saviour to your buddies. Spend
some time reading here on WWM and you may find something that jumps out
at you. In the meantime, provide excellent water quality, nutrition,
low stress levels and keep testing. -GrahamT>
Huma Huma help 1/2/07 hello. <Hello, Graham here.> I
have had a catastrophe... and want to help save my last fish... I
purchased some turbo snails from the local pet store and after
introducing them to my 75 gallon tank all my fish started scratching. I
added Sea Cure and that was the end of my marine life. I lost 2 clown 2
damsel 1 yellow tang and my emperor angel.. now my trigger is left but
he is still scratching away at his side. he has his whole belly red and
flakey now. what can I do ? My tank was all zeros for no2, no3 and
ammonia and a ph of 8.0-8.2.... I now have him out of the tank and in a
quarantine.. he seems to be fine but he is scratching his skin really
bad...I an dosing him with sea cure BTW. <Very hard to diagnose a
problem like this when you can't see it. Send a high-resolution
.JPG that has been either compressed in an image editor or to a .ZIP
file. (Make sure the file is no bigger than 500k, but preferably under
100k) If you cannot send a pic, I recommend you try to work out an
identification from our FAQs using the search tool.>
Thanks
Josh
<Welcome.> <P.S. Bob F. : Please jump in if you see a red flag
I'm missing! -Graham> <<Mmm... copper poisoning...
removing the copper, hope, time going by... RMF>>
A buddy's Picasso in distress.... -
04/05/2006 <Sab> I had a quick question for
ya.... I have a buddy at work (CC'd here) with a 2"
Picasso in a 40g tank with two other fish; <Gonna get crowded...>
water parameters all sound great, am going to double check for him in
case his test reagents are old/faulty. Sounds like a decent
setup given the inhabitants' current size; also, the tank's in
good shape/health aside from this little trigger. He's
been in the tank for 5 months and has started showing signs that he
might be blind. <Does happen> He tries to go for food and fails
to find it. He apparently acts as though he wants to eat,
just can't see/get the food. The only things I can think
of that might be issues are nutritional problems and toxic metals
(copper, etc). <These are the most common...> I think we've
ruled out the latter though. The fish are fed on frozen
krill, Mysis, brine shrimp, and flakes. I've suggested
he start trying some frozen/thawed human-consumption fish/shellfish
meats, foods soaked in Selcon, maybe some Spectrum pellets, but I'm
just not sure if nutritional issues would blind a fish?
<Yes, can/do> I've read so in a couple of places,
but.... is there anything else that I'm
missing? Other things that cause blindness in fish/triggers?
<Likely the third most common "cause" are
pathogenic/parasitic problems... next, too-bright/continuous
lighting...> Am currently recommending quarantining the critter so
he won't have competition for food and trying to get something into
his little concave belly. Any other thoughts? Also, Brent,
the link for the conference is http://www.wmc2006.org - hope to see ya
there! -Sabrina <Oh, yes. And do send along a close-up pic of this
fish's eyes if you can. Bob Fenner>
Re: A buddy's Picasso in
distress.... blindness - 04/05/2006 thanks
to both of you. I'll get a close-up of his eyes
soon. as far as lighting goes, i have a 50/50
skylight/actinic on a timer (no reef/coral set-up), so i don't
think that's it. <Me neither... Bob Fenner>
Questions on Huma Huma Hello- I have a question about my Huma
Trigger. I just got the fish a few days ago, it has a whitish rash on
its body and has been ramming himself into the wall of the tank, the
bleached coral, the thermometer, you name it. Is it trying to scratch
an itch or is it just attacking these things? <Hard to say... all
your suggested possibilities might be the one... or a combination of
the reasons for this animals apparent aberrant behavior. Might also
simply be something that disagrees with it in the way of water
chemistry. What other sorts of life do you have in the system? Or
consequent with capture, handling damage... Or an internal
disorder...> Also I have 3 damsels with this guy. Are they safe,
they seem to be happy for now. The Trigger is quite small. <Safe for
now.> Last question. I am wondering if there was a good scavenger
fish that I could get that would clean up after the trigger. He is very
messy. I know that if I get a shrimp or a crab it would end up being an
expensive snack. Any suggestions??? <Please see our site re marine
scavengers, starting here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marscavart.htm
following the links, FAQs from there> I have a 32 gallon tank with a
Fluval 304 filter <Yikes... this is a small system for what you have
now, and smaller as the fishes grow.> Thanks for any help Jason
<Be chatting. Bob Fenner>
Picasso Trigger We have had our Picasso
Trigger for around 5 months now and he has been slowly developing a
'bump' on his nose. <Yes, I see from your image.
Bizarre> Recently, in the last week his bump has begun to swell
and he is beginning to get quite lethargic. Earlier in the piece,
he used to 'scratch' his head on the rocks but there is no
obvious scratching on his skin. None of the other fish in the tank
seem to be affected. At first we thought that it might have been
bruising as he bumps his head on the top of the tank when we feed
him. He's eating a diet of frozen mussel, oyster and spinach
with some dry flake food. We also give him fresh mussel as well.
We've tried to give him a little bit of garlic (recommended to
us by the shop we've bought all our fish through) but he
doesn't seem to be improving. <No... I suspect this is a
fluid-filled tumor or cyst within the animals internal skin...>
Our other fish in the tank include a yellow tang, 2 blue/green
chromos, a Percula Clown and a Black and White Humbug. We also have
a few local shrimps to help keep the tank clean and they sometimes
sit on his nose 'cleaning' him. The tank is 600 litres and
recently set up and our regular testing shows that the water is
good and we change it regularly with local fresh sea water. I have
attached a photo of 'Trig' and we hope that you may be able
to have a look at it and perhaps recommend what may be wrong with
him. He's by far our most interesting tank inhabitant and
we'd hate to lose him. The shop don't know what it is and
all the diseases that we read about don't seem to come close to
his condition. If you're not sure, can you recommend someone
who may know. Thanks for your time ... <Thank you for writing,
and sending the image. I have a long-standing keen interest in
triggers/Balistids (for many years thought I was going to make them
my life's study, do my doctorate on their systematics...)... so
have always had ancillary interests in their biology. Have only
seen these sorts of tumorous growths on a couple of other
occasions. Unfortunately, nothing I'm aware of can be done to
reverse or remove this "bump"... Though sometimes such
growths resolve themselves spontaneously, of their own accord. I
would keep the animal as well as can be, soaking its foods in a
vitamin and iodide mixture twice a week... in the hopes that it
will self-cure. Should this animal perish, do consider donating to
university (zoology department) or through your veterinarian to a
specialist. Bob Fenner> |
|
Humu Humu Trigger died Saturday Hi all.. Anthony and all
<greeting, my friend> sad sad...but Magnum died Saturday morning
after his situation got worse on Friday. <alas... sorry to hear it
but I admire you for your great efforts> he seemed to do fine on
Thursday evening, after he got stuck to the air pump that morning.
<great stress I'm sure> We saw the deterioration on Friday
but there was nothing we could do, and we had small hope that he would
get better. deep inside you know when a fish is dying. I really miss
this cute fish and I wished he'd survived but we think the injury
was too much.......or maybe even got infected inside in any
case...after spending the last 2 weeks caring about this fish'
health he became kind of like my little care project, meaning...you
want to protect it and want it to have a good life.... <yes... and
its death is not in vain... you have learned so much and other Q&A
readers have benefited from the insight as well, rest assured> I
just wanted to say thanks to all who have helped and given
advice......too bad the last injury was too much Wendy <always
welcome... best regards in this hobby/life to you. Kindly,
Anthony>
HELP - Sluggish Picasso Trigger Hello, Over the past few days
I have noticed changes with my Pecos Trigger. Until recently
the trigger has been very active, but now he has been spending a lot of
time sleeping under the rocks. I have even noticed him
swimming past the power filter inlet and allowing himself to be sucked
against the grate. Today when I go home from work I found him upside
down lodged behind the overflow. At first I thought he was
dead but when I moved the box he swam away. I checked my
levels and found the following:
Nitrates: 20
Nitrites: 0
Ammonia: 0
PH: 8.8
Obviously I have allowed my PH to get way out of control so I instantly
added the first dosing of marine buffer to get it back under
control. I have looked over the trigger and see no signs of
other disease. Would the PH be causing him to act sluggish
and reduce the level of activity? Any advice is appreciated.
Stacey Hippen <Hi Stacey, Your pH is *high* at 8.8. Are
you sure it wasn't 7.8? Adding buffer to 8.8 water would raise it
far too high. Of concern to me is your nitrate level. I
would perform adequate water changes to get your water to 8.3-8.4 pH
and lower your nitrates to start. You might also try looking up your
trigger at WetWebMedia.Com in the Google search engine to see if there
is something you are missing. Craig>
Trigger needs glasses Good Morning
Guys
Thanks for such an informative sight. I have a question concerning a
Picasso Trigger, which has been part of the family for about 5 years.
He has always been the picture of health and very responsive to my
being in the room or nearby. Now here's the problem. He has what
appears to be a vision problem. When I walk up to the tank he can see
me. I know this because he comes running at feeding time. He comes to
the top of the tank to feed but seems as though he can't see the
food. The food can be right in front of him but he can't find it!
The only way to feed him is by hand! So it seems as though he can see
at a distance but not up close. He also has become very clumsy and
disoriented at times. (i.e. running into the coral) I really would
appreciate your thoughts on this. He has lost weight. Is this a result
of not being able to find the food or is something else going on?
Thanks again for your time. Randy S. < Try soaking his
food in a vitamin preparation such as American Marines
Selcon. Unfortunately this is a problem with many large/old
captives. You won't be able to completely restore his vision but
just keep it from getting worse. Also make sure you are
keeping up on your regular water changes. Hope this helps,
Cody>
Picasso Trigger Hi there, I have a small question
regarding my baby pico. I've had him for a month and
he's been doing great, swimming all over, eating like no
other... This morning I saw a two small brown spots on the
tip and side of his nose/mouth. They eventually disappeared,
but I don't know what they were. He picks on the rocks
all the time, searching for food and the other day I saw him scratch
himself against the rocks. Could the spots be just from his
daily pickings? I have 2 damsels in a 55 gallon with all the
goodies, and I do a 25% water change weekly. Any info/advice
would be great. Thanks Jon <Just keep a close
eye on him for know as these fish are very tough. You need
to quarantine all new fish in a separate tank for at least 3 weeks
before adding them to your main tank. For more info on
quarantine and the trigger read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/quaranti.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/fishes/triggers/rhinecanthus/index.htm
Best regards Cody>
Trigger Losing His Sight? Good Morning Guys <Scott F. your
guy today!> Thanks for such an informative site. I have a question
concerning a Picasso Trigger which has been part of the family for
about 5 years. He has always been the picture of health and very
responsive to my being in the room or nearby. Now here's the
problem. He has what appears to be a vision problem. When I walk up to
the tank he can see me. I know this because he comes running at feeding
time. He comes to the top of the tank to feed but seems as though he
cant see the food. The food can be right in front of him but he cant
find it! The only way to feed him is by hand! So it seems as though he
can see at a distance but not up close. He also has become very clumsy
and disoriented at times. (i.e. running into the coral) I really would
appreciate your thoughts on this . He has lost weight. Is this a result
of not being able to find the food or is something else going on?
Thanks again for your time. Randy S. <Well, Randy- hard to
say...There actually is "nutritional blindness", generally
brought on by (surprise!) dietary deficiencies. There are other
possibilities, too: The fish could have had some sort of trauma to its
eyes...? You should observe carefully...Make sure that the
environmental conditions are stable and of high quality...This is an
unusual occurrence, but it does happen...Usually, however, lack of
response to environmental stimuli is indicative of some sort of water
chemistry issue, in my experience...Hang in there, and take action as
needed...Regards, Scott F>
Scratching Picasso! Dear WWM Crew- My Picasso trigger
constantly scratches in the sand and rocks he has no visible signs of
disease or ick I've done 3 fresh water dips nothing works he's
scratched him self up with wounds now please help! <Ack! Doesn't
sound fun! It's Ryan helping today. Triggers do this, to
an extent. This doesn't quite sound
normal. Unfortunately, without more info I can be of little
service. What size tank is this? Have you made
any changes in your water chemistry that may have caused
this? Is he a mature trigger with a history of this
behavior? There is much to be considered. Please
quarantine him if possible-in a glass bottom tank with little to no
rock, ho won't be able to rip himself up too badly. Just
don't forget that with a fish like this in QT, daily water changes
are mandatory. Search the WWM FAQs- there is a ton about
scratching triggers. If you're still amiss, write us
back with the details. Hope this helps! Ryan>
- Lumpy Humu - Aloha WWM Crew,
<Aloha.> Much mahalos for the wonderful service you
provide. I can't thank you guys enough for all your
help. I have a baby Humu which has a line (bump) that
run from one side of his jaw to the other side (see attached pics).
<Interesting.> I gave him a couple fw dips and quarantined
him for a couple weeks before placing him into my transition tank
(30gallon). I was going to put him into my main display
tank when I noticed the strange bump. All the levels in the tank
are normal and I have been feeding him vitamin soaked food ever
since I got him. What going on? <Really hard to say... I've
seen similar lumps on related triggers like the Rhinecanthus
aculeatus and your R. rectangulus but am still not sure of the
origin. Think it could be one of two things: a subcutaneous
swelling, perhaps from wedging itself into a tight spot. The other
option, which is less inviting is a tumor. Both happen... and
there's not really a whole bunch you can do for either one. I
would just continue to keep the fish like any other pet and perhaps
the lump will go away and perhaps you will name it Lumpy... as long
as it's eating, you're both doing alright.> Thanks
again,
Jeff
<Cheers, J -- > |
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Triggerfishes for Marine Aquariums
Diversity, Selection & Care
New eBook on Amazon: Available here
New Print Book on Create Space: Available
here
by Robert (Bob) Fenner
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