FAQs about Shark Systems:
Maintenance
Related Articles: Sharks, Sharks In My Living Room?, Cartilaginous Fishes, Blacktip Reef
Shark, Nurse
Sharks, Coldwater
Sharks, Leopard Sharks,
Port Jackson Sharks, Moving Sharks,
Related FAQs: Shark
Tanks, Shark System Lighting,
Shark Habitat (Substrates, Decor),
Shark System Circulation &
Aeration, Shark System
Filtration, & Shark Systems
1, Shark Systems 2, Shark Systems 3, Shark Systems 4, Shark Systems 5, Shark Systems 6, Shark Systems 7, & Sharks in General, Shark Compatibility, Shark Behavior, Selection, Feeding, Diseases, Shark, Ray Eggs,
Coldwater
Sharks, Leopard Sharks,
Heterodontus, Blacktip Sharks, Nurse Sharks, Moving Sharks,
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Water quality issues need to be monitored.
Metabolite accumulation, DO,
temperature especially.
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Sharks and Rays in Aquariums
Gaining an understanding of how to keep these fishes in captive
saltwater systems
New
Print and
eBook on Amazon
by Robert (Bob) Fenner |
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High phosphates wither sharks
7/16/18
Hello.
<Hello>
I have a 550 gallon salt water fish only tank. I two sharks
approximately 2 feet long , epaulets and coral cat. I have been able to
control the nitrates but not the phosphates, it us off the chart.
<Please tell me more about your tank equipment, other tank mates and
maintenance practices.>
I am looking into hooking up a reactor with Phosguard but have read that
some phosphate removers are not good with sharks. I was making sure
Phosguard is okay to use with them.
<Phosphates are very hard to keep at low levels in Elasmobranch systems
because of their feeding habits(amount and frequency). Fortunately high
phosphate levels are tolerated by must shark species and YES, phosphate
removers are toxic for them because of its ferric oxide composition
which affects their electroreceptive system, I suggest you to use a deep
sand bed refugium with algae(Chaeto/Caulerpa sp.) to keep phosphates in
check; do frequent water changes and use a high quality skimmer rated to
your tank gallon capacity to export nutrients before they break down.
Thank you
<You`re welcome. Wilberth>
Re: High phosphates wither sharks 7/17/18
I will try Phosguard thanks for your assistance.
<Let me know how it goes. Wilberth>
Re: Nitrate Reduction... f' also Lg. sys. maint., Shark
sys.... 9/15/13
... Are you joking? Re file size? Deleted. READ re our requirements,
limitations... re-size and re-send all. B
Re: Nitrate Reduction 9/15/13
Apologies
<Accepted>
Ok, Still working on the nitrate problem. I have
attached some pics of the sump and tank so you can see what I am working
with.
<Have gone over all>
I am looking at a few possibilities regarding this nitrate issue.
After reviewing the responses you have given me I am noticing I am very
limited on what I can do. Let me know what you think.
I have tried to figure a way to retrofit the bags but I have no way of
setting them under the outflow pumps. The sump was designed
with an access tray that I was going to try to remove but could not I
may be able to clip them to where the tray slides out by doubt it would
be very effective.
<Do see CPR's site re:
http://www.cpraquatic.com/pdf/sockitcombo.pdf
I do not have enough room in the sump for a refugium but I am going to
have one built that I can tie into the main sump.
<Good>
Regarding that how many gallons does that sump need to be in order to be
effective.
<As big as possible... whatever the largest size you can fit>
In the meantime I have thought about pulling the matrix from the tank and
cleaning it then placing it back into the sump.
<Eh!>
Would you recommend this or would this be more detrimental.
<Don't think it would make any difference at all; the washing... I'd
just leave in place>
I have noticed any heavy shifting can cause a nitrate and nitrite
spike in my tank in the past.
<Shifting? Of what? How?>
I have also noticed that since I have gone to changing the pads everyday
that it almost seems pre mature since they look brand new when I pull
the three floss pads out. No staining at all. Will an
increase in water amount that I change per water change help to solve
this problem.
<Not much; no; and only temporarily... several hours to a day or so>
Possibly going from 100-150 gallons up to 200 gallons per week or even
more or would that damage the stability of the tank.
<Agreed>
I attached the pics so you can see the tank. Everything is extremely
healthy even the Duncans, Mushroom Corals, Gorgonians and African
Red Seastar.
<Good>
Maybe I am over reacting but I just want to provide the best
environment that I can for these guys. PS. I am using an API
nitrate test kit and I have heard these test really high.
<I'd invest in a better make... API is really rudimentary... see WWM re
such>
I have three different test kits with API and have used all of them and
they are all the same. From your experience are these not
accurate.
<Nor precise. Do get going on that 'fuge... add as much (a foot or more)
of very fine sand... and alternating light cycle (RDP)... You're going
to need all this, these changes, addenda as these fishes grow MUCH
larger. Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Shea
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Re: Nitrate Reduction
9/15/13
So to refresh
1. Eliminate SeaChem matrix all together.
<Mmm, I'd keep it if I'd paid for it>
2. Build as big a refugium as possible.
<Yes>
3. Sand in refugium at a depth of one foot.
<Or deeper!>
4. Increase weekly water changes to 200 gallons weekly.
<If you don't go broke or break your back!>
Is this accurate.
I assume you mean a one foot depth sand bed in the refugium.
<Ah yes. BobF> Re: Nitrate Reduction;
Shark Sys. 9/26/13
Leader of all that which is aquatic,
<Javul!>
Two things I thought of over the last few days
that I would like your help on.
<Hotay>
I have been thinking of adding a few more inches to the sand bed in the
display tank. Do you think this is a good idea with the sharks
being large fish.
<Yes I do>
Also. I was wondering about adding a giant kelp plant
<... what species? Not temperate I hope/trust>
into each of the four corners of my tank. For two reasons. I
would assume the tangs could eat it but not faster than it would grow.
And it could be a very good looking addition to the interior of the tank and
consume nitrates.
<Mmm, no... >
The problem is I can not find any info of anyone keeping them in
home aquariums and I cant find anyone that sells it. Can
you give me any info on either of these issues, it would be greatly
appreciated.
<... the large brown (Phaeophyte) and red (Rhodophyte) algae that are kelps
won't help here... Need to grow them, perhaps in a tumble culture in a
separate sump/refugium... Have you been reading? B>
Shea B
Fw: Nitrate Reduction 9/26/13
Sorry I used the term Giant kelp. Mainly a form of kelp with
that look but smaller size. Not sure if there even is one. Just so
there is no confusion. Sorry.
<No worries; there are many species... mostly too cold-water for your use...
Do keep reading. B>
Shea
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BLACKTIP SHARK HYPOTHERMIA
12/1/11
Hi Bob, I need your help please!
<Here for you amigo>
This week temperature went down here in Mexico City and my costumers
shark tank drop to 70 degrees.
The tank is 1200 gallons housing a 30" 3 year old Blacktip Shark,
the shark was eating and behaving normally all this time, water levels
are:
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0
Ph 7.7
<Mmm, a little low... I take it you use buffering compounds...>
Temp (before heater failure 78)
My guess is that the shark got hypothermia(let me know if I am
right).we spend the whole night and part of this morning raising tank
temperature, now it is 75 degrees but the shark barely swims and sinks
on the bottom after just a few laps to the tank.
I grab it every time carefully and force him to swim, I increase
aeration and last night add some ph up(Brightwell Aquatics) but
don´t know what else to do, is it possible that having his
temperature back to normal his muscles and other body organs work again
or he is far gone?
Please help me the answer is not on your files, I was searching for
hours.
Thanks a lot
Wilberth
<"Don't panic!" All should be fine w/in a day or two
my friend. Go slow here w/ any changes. Nos vemos. RobertoF>
Re: BLACKTIP SHARK HYPOTHERMIA 12/1/11
Muchas gracias Bob, I´ll keep you posted
Wilberth
<Thank you, BobF>
Re: BLACKTIP SHARK HYPOTHERMIA, plus pH/Alk adjustment for large
volumes 12/3/11
Hola Bob,
<Hey Wil!>
I want to tell you that the Blacktip is swimming normally again, like
you said it took a couple of days.
I didn´t know they could get that bad at 70 degrees, I mean
it is not really cold but they are tropicals hu.
The only problem to be solve is de Ph/Kh issue, I can´t
raise it to the right levels, is there an effective product that you
recommend?
<For 1,200 gallons... It may well behoove you to make your own.
Formulations are available on the Net if you search. Otherwise, there
are "bulk" suppliers, like BRS:
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/products/calcium-alkalinity-magnesium
In the long/er term, if this were my account, I'd be looking into a
calcium reactor...>
Thanks for your help as always.
Wilberth
<Welcome. BobF>
Saltwater questions.. Shark sel.,
systems 3/4/06 Hi Bob, <Joe> I have a few more
queries which I'd like your help for. <Will do my best>
Firstly, I have a chance to purchase a Colclough's Shark, and
knowing how rare these are, would like your opinion on whether these
sharks might live well in my tank. <The genus does about as well as
any captive shark species. Have never seen this fish in the trade in
the U.S., but sometimes sold in areas closer to its Australian origin:
http://filaman.ifm-geomar.de/Summary/SpeciesSummary.php?id=5893>
My area of concern is the temperature range to which they are
accustomed. Scott Michael's book states this range as being between
18 and 24 degrees Celsius. We have just come out of Summer in Australia
and I have noted that the tank maintains an average temperature of
about 28 -30 degrees Celsius. <Mmm, yes... I would employ a chilling
mechanism here for sure> While I am certain that this will drop a
few degrees during the winter, I do not want to purchase this shark
only to let it suffer next summer. Do you think the shark will be
comfortable given this temperature? <Not likely. We have a similar
"challenge" here in S. California with folks trying to keep
Leopard (Triakis semifasciata, now banned I'm given to understand),
and our local Port Jackson (Heterodontus francisci)... some success
during the winter months, almost none w/o chilled systems during the
summer> If not, I would prefer getting an Epaulette which has a
warmer range. <A better choice w/o the chiller...> Secondly, I am
aware of a certain product on the market ("Deniballs T by
Aquamedic) which claim to reduce nitrate by slowly dissolving over a
period of a year or so. Is this product essential to a successful
marine aquarium or is it simply a money burner? <Mmm... a worthwhile
expedient for some... Nitrates can be a "menace"... but given
other means, not necessary. You do want to keep these at a minimum in
shark systems... less than 10 ppm.> Are water changes enough to
control nitrate? <Well... not unless you're super-wealthy, to
afford bunches of salt mix, or have a hose pipe from the sea to
maintain an open system... Other means are detailed on WWM... Should be
reviewed> Since I will be keeping a shark and ray, among other fish,
do they have a specific low-tolerance to nitrate?? <Yes! Any is of
trouble really...> Finally, are cooked shrimp better/worse than raw
shrimp to feed to my fish? (In regards to nutrient value and disease
carrying potential). <Worse nutritionally> Thank you very much
for your time and effort, Joe <Thank you for helping us all by
asking, sharing. Bob Fenner>
Outdoor Shark Pool... Heat
Has Gotten To Querior 5/27/06 Hello, <Hi> Thank
for all the great info on your website, its really
appreciated.
<Glad you enjoy it.>
I have a question on having a outdoor shark
pond/pool. I was thinking of building an above ground pond
(roughly 500 gal.) for a small shark (thinking banded bamboo shark)
outside my house since an aquarium that size will be difficult to fit
in my house. I was wondering if the temperature of the
Arizona heat will be difficult to keep the adequate temperature in the
pond, not to mention evaporation. I'm also wondering
what kind of materials to build the pond out of and/or how big of a
filtration system will need. Would this be a
good home for a shark or am crazy?? <You're
crazy:) You would have to have a very large chiller to
accomplish this, and your electric bill would be as high as the Arizona
heat. Summer temps average in the nineties, often exceeding
100+ degrees as you well know, and to chill a tank down 20-25 degrees
from ambient...Yowsie Wowsie.> Thanks. <You're
welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Sharks in stingrays in a small tank - 3/15/04 I have an 80
gallon saltwater tank; it has been set up for about 2 years. I had a
Blue spotted sting ray, and a black banded cat shark. <Much too big
in the long run> The sting ray we have had for about a year. I
don't know how old he was. The shark was about 2 months old; he was
born into our tank from an egg. All of a sudden the sting ray just died
no signs of foul play, only a small green mark on his belly. The shark
died 2 days later. <Sorry to hear. Your description does nothing to
implicate anything concrete> I could tell something was wrong with
the shark a couple of days before he died, he was swimming erratically,
and bumping into things, as if he couldn't tell which way was up or
down. <Electrical current or magnetic field, metal poisonings,
inadequate water chemistry, many things could be the issue here or a
combination of them> The water tested fine. <Means nothing to
me> The only thing I could think of is, it has been a while since I
changed the filter in the wet dry, (about 2 months) apparently the
filter needs to be changed every 3 weeks, I did not know that.
<Hmmm.....maybe but not entirely convinced> If that is the reason
why then why didn't my blue damsel die or my maroon clown fish?
<That is easy. These are typically very hardy fish. Cartilaginous
fish are very sensitive to water quality.> Looking forward to
hearing from you. <Not sure what I can tell you here. Please read
through our ever expanding section on sharks and rays for more
information on nutrition, water quality needs, tank sizes, etc. Sorry I
couldn't be of more help ~Paul> Cindy & George
Shark Tanks Aloha from Hawaii, <Howdy> My name is
Jillian Davis, a junior at West Hawaii Exploration Academy (WHEA) on
the Big Island of Hawaii. We have a unique school set up where we have
access to surface ocean water and deep-sea water. <We were just
visiting there (at NELHA) last week!> We just recently finished the
tank for our shark pit, which is quite exciting. We also have an Aloha
Kai program where students from other schools and people of all age
groups come and see our projects. Shark Pit is intended to be one of
the most exciting. Being that I have never had sharks before, I was
wondering if you could give me some advice. These are the things I
would like to know... <Okay> What is the standard temperature of
a shark tank? <Mmm, actually, there are decidedly tropical to cool
to coldwater sharks... and systems respectively. You can find ranges
for many species listed on fishbase.org> How do we clean the tank or
keep it from being over-grown with algae? <Good, thorough
circulation/agitation of the water... I suspect you will have an open
system (not-recirculating) otherwise we could chat re filtration
methods... so good turnover (maybe ten-twenty turns an hour) will do
likely... along with good scrubbing, vacuuming perhaps on a daily
basis> What are some fish that would survive well in a tank full of
sharks? <Depends on the shape, size of the system and types/species
and sizes of sharks kept. I would try fast, aware species found in the
same region/ecotype> Is there a certain type of fish that
shouldn't be put in with the sharks? <Mmm, venomous, spiny types
that might cause trouble if ingested> Are there any precautions we
need to take prior to putting the sharks in the tank (water quality
testing, etc.)? <Yes, please see below> Do you know of a source I
can use to look up an future questions? <... Oh yes. On our site
(starting here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/sharks.htm
and the materials listed in the bibliography/further reading at the end
of the articles there. Do seek out Scott Michael's last re-do of
"Sharks and Rays" for sure> Your time and effort in this
is greatly appreciated. I would like to thank you in advance for any
advice u may send to me. Mahalo, Jillian Davis 11th grade
<You're welcome. Bob Fenner>
Re: Shark tank Saw/bought your book (TCMA) at our local pet
shop this weekend. So hopefully, although you shouldn't expect
fewer questions, perhaps you'll receive better informed ones.
<Well-stated> Yes, very fond of fine specimens... Aquatic or
otherwise. <Me too> If convenient (i.e. You have it in electronic
form), I would greatly, hugely appreciate the opportunity to review the
draft of Aquarium Sharks and Rays. But only if it's not too much
trouble. <Hmm, have a draft copy (black and white, pages) and a
bound finished... it's now in print... no electronic> Yes, the
Ecowheel was a monster expense... But so are 100 gallon monthly water
changes. Now, I'm only doing water changes every 3rd month to
replace trace elements. Is this practice O.K. in your opinion?
<We'll soon see... should be... along with skimming> I DO
change carbon and filter cartridges on a monthly basis. Other than
eliminating nitrates and phosphates, which were previously a constant
struggle to deal with, the other great benefit of the wheel is that it
occasionally releases pieces of macro algae that my tang greedily jumps
on. Since goatfish appear to eat anything they can get their mouths
around, I'm thinking about getting small ones(s). Can you recommend
number or goatfish and Archaster sp. stars for my tank? <Three of
the smaller Goatfish species/individuals... and five or so
Archaster> Thanks again, and looking forward to delving into your
book. Looks tremendous from initial skim through! J.D. Hill <Yes,
lots of good help putting these together. Bob Fenner>
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Sharks and Rays in Aquariums
Gaining an understanding of how to keep these fishes in captive
saltwater systems
New
Print and
eBook on Amazon
by Robert (Bob) Fenner |
|