FAQs about Skilter Skimmers  Related FAQs: Best Skimmer FAQs, Skimmers 1, Best Skimmer Selection FAQs, Skimmer Selection, Skimmer Selection 2, Skimmer Selection 3, Skimmer Selection 4, Skimmer Selection 5, Skimmer Selection 6, Skimmer Selection 7, DIY Skimmers, Hang-On Models, Best Skimmer Op./Maint. FAQs, Skimmer Maintenance,  Skimmer Operation/Maintenance 2, Algae Control, Corallife Skimmers, CPR Skimmers, Deltec Skimmers, ETSS Skimmers, Euro-Reef Skimmers, Prizm Skimmers, Skimmers for Eclipse Systems, Skimmers for Small Systems, Tunze Skimmers, Related Articles: Skimmers by Steven Pro, Protein Skimmer Impressions By Steven Pro, Marine Filtration, Mechanical, Physical & Chemical, and FAQs, Invertebrates and fishes that live in close association with them need good water quality... Will your skimmer help? Amblyeleotris guttata (Fowler 1938), the Spotted Prawn-Goby and Alpheid partner.

Live Rock Anemone ID and Skilter Search 2/17/10 Hey guys, I had 2 quick questions I need your help with. <Ok> I have a little 10 gallon saltwater aquarium I am gearing up for a reef tank. I've been pretty religious in checking the salinity levels and doing 2 gallon water changes every other week. <Probably not often enough for such a small tank.> Current stock is a Firefish, a tiny royal gramma, a percula clownfish, 2 peppermint shrimp, some snails, and some blue leg hermits. <Too much here, the gramma will eventually kill the Firefish most likely, then go after the clown. My gramma is very aggressive in a 46G with just a pair of clowns, in a ten it will most likely kill all other tankmates.> One day while doing maintenance I noticed a small anemone on a piece of live rock. It doesn't appear to be a glass anemone, but I know most desirable ones require high light which is not available at the moment, yet the anemone appears to be thriving. Its about a half an inch across, beige base with clear tentacles tipped with white. I included a poor quality pic if that helps. I was wondering if it should be removed or kept. <Hard to say from the picture, but I would guess a majano.> <<Very hard to see, but my guess is a Pseudocorynactis. Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/mushrmidfaq2.htm at the bottom for instance. RMF>> Also before I turn the aquarium over into reef (I'm giving it 6 months to mature) I wanted to find a good quality Skilter to replace the current filter for increased current and skimming. <I would not spend money on a Skilter, neither filters nor skims very well in my opinion. Look into a Aqua-C Nano for more bang for your buck.> The only one we sell at the store I work at does 250 gallons an hour, probably much too much for the little 10 gallon. <Depends on what you are keeping.> I was hoping you might know where one could find a good quality Skilter for a 10-20 gallon aquarium. Thanks guys! <Welcome> PS I give your website to any customer at the store who is starting out in the hobby! Keep up the good work-Ray <Great!> <Chris>

Re: Losing fish after tank cleaning/water change, skimmer sel.    2/17/09 Thanks for the help. Sorry I hit the wrong key on the pH. It is 8.3. I have added 10 lbs crushed coral and will go looking for some live rock this weekend. Hopefully this will help. Also I was reading on your site and found that my skimmer (Skilter 400) is not held in very high regards. <Mmm, no... is barely functional as such> I maybe get an ounce of liquid in there per week and it is not that dark. My water parameters are still OK. Does this mean the skimmer is doing its job? <Not likely... other aspects, gear are doing this...> I would think if there skimmer were not efficient the water quality would suffer. I think I am going to order an AquaC Remora to replace it (just in case). <A hugely better product> When I do replace the Skilter do I still need to run a carbon filter or does a good skimmer and live rock bypass this? Thanks, Chris <You can use the Skilter for such chemical filtrant applications. BobF>

Re: Bio-Spira  12/14/06 Thanks for the super fast response! I used Cycle by Nutrafin and followed directions for marine use. OK, so I'll get Bio-Spira, do an 80% water change and all fish and inverts will be ok? <Yes, you need to remove the toxins in there.  Just be sure the SG, pH & temp are the same as the tank water.>   Should I also put in new carbon filters? <Wouldn't hurt> I have a Skilter Filter 400. Also, the protein skimmer isn't getting any foam yet, I'm assuming that is normal since the tank is so new.   <Get yourself a decent skimmer.  Skilters are junk!  In addition, that pad will collect nitrates on it.> Thanks Pufferpunk! <You're very welcome!  ~PP>

Air pump Hey folks! Just started a 20g saltwater tank and got a, (shudder) Skilter 250. Yea, I know, say it ain't so. Anyway, I found the Skilter modification in the FAQ and have completed it with the help of the LFS that I like here. Main reason for doing it was it seems to inject a ton of bubbles back into the tank. Much better now. I have an ashwood air stone running off of a Tectra Deep water 24-2. I was wondering if it would be appropriate to simply plug the non-used outlet of the pump for the time being (and to save my sanity from the noise) with a piece of tube with a plug on the end of it. I was thinking that when I setup an additional tank for QT, I would run hose from the other outlet to it for air, etc. Will this burn out my pump or be ok? Love your site, very very informational! <Dan, I would use a "T" and use both lines, if it's too much air you can always add an inline flow control.> James (Salty Dog)>

Adding an airstone to a skimmer Skilter Filter Question #1,000,000 probably. << Maybe so, we'll see. >> I have a small 7 gallon tank, been up and running for a while now (8 months).  Has fish, LR (10 lbs), and a xenia in there.  Along with a couple of snails.  Never used a skimmer on it, but have decided to try the Skilter filter (Instead of my Aqua clear mini and a powerhead).  Have been using it, and I have been getting good foam and good filtration. << Not a bad way to go on a 7 gal. >> The thing that really bothers me is the amount of bubbles getting into my tank when I use it.   I have read through your site and noticed a couple of pieces on a skimmer adjustment to cut down on the aquarium bubbles.  The one where a wooden airstone is fitted into the contact chamber and run by a whisper air pump.  I am just a little unclear on a couple of things with this.  Where in the contact chamber should the airstone go.  Top, bottom? (Also, by contact chamber do you mean the part where the bubbles accumulate and go up to the collection cup?) << Yes, in the bottom of that area.  Not a bad idea. >> I saw the question asked 'which size whisper air pump should be used?'  The answer went into a sentence that said something about a II and then mentioned a couple of other brands or something that I am not very familiar with.  By II, were they referring to the whisper 20 air pump? << That I don't know.  I haven't used air pumps in my reef tanks forever.  I'll bet you can't over power the skimmer, so don't worry about it being too big.  I wonder if that comment meant "challenger 2" but I don't know.  Best thing to do is to just try it out and see how it goes. >> Thanks in advance for any help you can give me. << Sorry I can't be of more help.  One thing that may help is to see what types and how large of air pumps are being used with brand new skimmers.  Just visit a local pet store and take a look at their skimmers. >> Tom   <<  Blundell  >>

Kilter Skilter 3/29/04  Hey Guys, I learned of you guys from my dad, He has been very grateful for your help. I have a 55 gallon salt water Fish/ Invertebrate mix tank. I am writing because I need help with my Skilter 400. I had used it on a previous tank a couple years ago and I lost the manual, I have it all set up an running but  I'm having one problem, and that's it is aerating at full blast and not pulling any protein out. It is also spilling a lot of air bubbles back into the tank. Is it something I need to let run all the time or should I be able to turn the air off? Let me know If I'm doing something wrong. Thank you, Jason  <add a brass needle valve (for air, get at local fish store) to the airline intake to fine tune the air input as needed. This makes a world of difference. Anthony>

Skilter produces no foam... (03/28/03) Hello, <Hi! Ananda here tonight> I have a Skilter 250, and I was wondering how much air should I be injecting into my tank??? And also I have not seen any foam in my collector cup so far, I've only had the tank running for 4 months. Is that normal??? <This is not a good skimmer by anyone's stretch of the imagination. So I'm not surprised that you haven't seen any foam. BUT, with a good skimmer, you should see foam within a day or three, or less. Unless your tank is 20 gallons or smaller, I'd upgrade to a better skimmer. (Use the Google search tool and look for "skimmer" and your tank size.) In the meantime, you can do some modifications to the Skilter to help its output. One forum member's suggestions on these pages: http://wetwebfotos.com/talk/thread.jsp?forum=5&thread=3450 and http://wetwebfotos.com/talk/thread.jsp?forum=5&thread=5381, with diagrams here: http://wetwebfotos.com/Home?actionRequest=userview&userID=1222) Thank you for your time   <You're welcome. --Ananda>

Skilter 400 Protein skimmer 3/25/03 Hello, I find your site very helpful and am looking for information on the Skilter 400.   <its a novel idea... but a poor performer. I wouldn't buy one unless you are handy and willing to modify it. Aquarists had rigged ingenious modifications for this model (injecting air with an air pump into the venturi or drilling the lid and adding an extra airstone, etc)> who produces this filter Supreme?   <sort of, yes... EG Danner produces Supreme and these Skilters> do they have a site.  I am using this on a 30 gallon tall fish and invert L.R tank, it has been working well for about 3 months, but overnight we had a nitrate nitrite increase hence sick fish which we moved out to another tank, but it looks like the foam is going back over into the tank instead of up into the collection cup, any ideas?  we are using the lee's airstone instead of the bubbler that came with it <ahhh... perhaps a large part of the problem. Do purchase a limewood or basswood airstone made for premium skimmers. Bubble size is crucial for this awkward design to work at all> thanks Lauren <best regards, Anthony>

BGA and Skilter adjustment questions (revisited) >Hi, >>Hello again. >Thanks Marina, for your answers. Here are just a couple of clean-up questions, if I may ... >>Of course. >(Oh, cool April fool pic yesterday, btw ...) >>April Fool's?  Uh oh!  Ok, if you're talking about that seahorse with the sea monkey (my av) riding it, I have no idea where that came from! > >I have a skimmer question, but vital statistics first:-20g-"long" tank, (i.e. shallow) cycled but still maturing at about 2 months old, 1/2" "live" Arag reef sand (before I knew live sand wasn't), about 15lb LR, 1 x Natural daylight 17W NO tube and 1 17W Actinic, giving around 1.5 effective W/g.  Skilter (w/Walsh mod), additional CAP200 powerhead, and temporarily a Magnum HOT for added circulation. > >>Eck.. Skilter, eh? >Yeah, well, the noise is comforting, in a way ... ;-) >>LOL! > >One tomato clown with his buddy, a green tip (in Actinic light, anyway) long tentacle anemone transplanted from my 37g FOWLR, and 1 blue damsel.  Ph 8.3, temp 77, Ammonia & Nitrate close as dammit to zero, Nitrate coming down from around 50 to around 12.5 and still falling, Red Sea Phosphate test kit shows same color as new water - very pale yellowy green, but no color that is actually on the test card! > >>If you're getting readings at all of ammonia and nitrite, then your tank is not actually cycled, it's still in the process. >I'm not. I'm sorry, I misled you: I meant that Ammonia and Nitrite are indistinguishable from 0 using the "Tetratest" test kits. >>Ok.   I had seeded the tank with very mature live rock, so cycling didn't take long, but it has definitely cycled :-) >>Great, so at least that's not a worry. >Nitrate is now WELL less than 12.5, and continuing to decrease with daily water changes. >>Even better!   > >C. sertularioides (sp?) > >>? >I meant Caulerpa Sertularioides. >>AHA! > >I added a month ago is growing amazingly fast. > >>Ok >My macro algae is also taking off like crazy - is that due to the reduced Nitrates? >>A bolting macro is telling you (like anything else, really) that it's getting all the food and good environmental conditions it needs.  It may be what's consuming your nitrates, too.  If it's pretty, your LFS may want to take some harvest in trade for store credit. > >I got a purple BGA attack a short while ago ... <clip> > >>Alright.  Although, you should know that it's more likely that your high nitrate readings could just as likely be the cause.  See here--> http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm >Got it, thanks! >>You're welcome! > >The BGA is turning from purple to dark brown. Can I assume I'm winning and that it is about to collapse and will require rapid water change etc. to prevent toxic damage? > >>Not necessarily "rapid", per se, but frequent. >Yeah, frequent, that's what I meant :-) >>Ok, then we're both on the right track. >But is the change of color a meaningful indicator? >>Aaahh...interesting question.  You know, I don't have the answer for you.  As I understand it, when we see a change such as color or form, it could be indicative of the advent of a new species, or subspecies.  If anyone else on the crew has the answer to this question, please chime in! <Skimmer discussion skipped> >I stirred things up in the tank to break up the red/brown "mats" of BGA on the LR, sand, etc, after which I got "weak tea" in the skimmer for an hour or so. I'm also playing with airstone positioning on the Skilter to get the best out of it. >>Do the best you can. >Can I restate my green filamentous algae question ? Will the green hair algae go away naturally, or do I need to scrub? I do have macro algae growing quite well now, and I don't want to destroy that, but I want to get back to plenty of coralline like my other tanks. >>Well, if it's doing well as is, and you want the other macro(s) to win the upper hand, then yes, you'll have to harvest. > >Last question: Because it's a shallow tank, the actinic and regular lamps don't mix well, so I swap the lamps front to back every couple of days to hit the LR at the back and the anemone and Caulerpa in front. > >>Not sure I understand what you're saying. >I meant that whatever bulb is in back, lights up the back, what's in front, lights up the front. The tank is so shallow the light doesn't mix back to front like it would in a deeper tank. >>Ok, thanks! > >>Live rock doesn't need lighting, your anemone does.  Also, actinics aren't a necessary component of lighting, they are more for aesthetics. Look here for information on lighting--> http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm >Excellent document, thanks. >>That Anthony guy surely knows his stuff.  ;) >I guess from your answer and from the link, I should just put the same lamps in front and back, but selected for the anemone, which really means forget the Actinic in favor of full spectrum, unless I upgrade to PC. I'll try to get financial approval for that ... >>LOL!!  Spoken like a true husband (or at least s.o.)!  Yes, that would be the course of action suggested.  Remember, good reflectors can do a LOT to help spread the light, too. > >It is time to replace the wide-spectrum lamp. As I eventually want to end up with a Walsh-style nano-reef with a little soft coral, should I just go to all 50/50's, or just get a 10,000K for the anemone for now, keep swapping, and change to PCs when the tank is mature?  Many Thanks! > >>What you first need to do is decide what you *really* want to keep.  Putting in animals such as soft corals and leathers in a tank (*especially* such a small tank!) with an anemone is a bad idea. >Aha - good to know. Thanks for that ! >>No problem. > >>If you want the anemone, then keep it just to that.  It could (with good husbandry) soon outgrow that 20 gallon, too.  If it does, then you move it to its own tank (50gal or larger) then you can consider the corals in the 20. >I'll put it back in the 120g I'm planning, when my ship comes in ;-) >>Great plan.  Let's hope it's one of those Princess Cruise Line ships...or better yet, a Windjammer Barefoot Cruise! >I really need to properly identify this anemone now, so I can determine its lighting needs. It is around 4-5 inches diameter, including tentacles around an inch or so long, green tipped at the ends when viewed in Actinic light, but otherwise an off-white color with pink/purple coloration in the main body and tentacles. It is paired with a tomato clown.  Could you suggest a reference site with pics?  Thanks!  Julian. >>Hhhmm...I haven't got anything more than what's on this site at the moment.  Look here--> http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm  There are links to many and all things anemone to be found on the WetWeb.  Tanks for the update, Julian!  Marina.

BGA and Skilter adjustment questions >Hi, >>Hello! >First, thanks for opening my eyes to the depth of this hobby. Talk about enlightenment !!!   >>Indeed.  And don't hesitate to explore other sites, as well. I have a skimmer question, but vital statistics first:-20g-"long" tank, (i.e. shallow) cycled but still maturing at about 2 months old, 1/2" "live" Arag reef sand (before I knew live sand wasn't), about 15lb LR, 1 x Natural daylight 17W NO tube and 1 17W Actinic, giving around 1.5 effective W/g.  Skilter (w/Walsh mod), additional CAP200 powerhead, and temporarily a Magnum HOT for added circulation. >>Eck.. Skilter, eh? >One tomato clown with his buddy, a green tip (in Actinic light, anyway) long tentacle anemone transplanted from my 37g FOWLR, and 1 blue damsel. >Ph 8.3, temp 77, Ammonia & Nitrate close as dammit to zero, Nitrate coming down from around 50 to around 12.5 and still falling, Red Sea Phosphate test kit shows same color as new water - very pale yellowy green, but no color that is actually on the test card! >>If you're getting readings at all of ammonia and nitrite, then your tank is not actually cycled, it's still in the process.   >C. sertularioides (sp?) >>? >I added a month ago is growing amazingly fast. >>Ok >I got a purple BGA attack a short while ago (possibly because I was daft enough to use an invertebrate formula to feed tiny tubeworms that came on some LR) and am fighting that in the usual way (Caulerpa, frequent water changes to reduce Nitrates, long light cycle). >>Alright.  Although, you should know that it's more likely that your high nitrate readings could just as likely be the cause.  See here--> http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm >The BGA is turning from purple to dark brown. Can I assume I'm winning and that it is about to collapse and will require rapid water change etc. to prevent toxic damage? >>Not necessarily "rapid", per se, but frequent. >Secondly, I bought the Skilter 'cos I have no money :( and I did the Tom Walsh mod on it with a Lee's wooden airstone and my old Elite 802 pump. I assume I need to keep the Skilter's own air mixer working too, because it was worthless with only the airstone. >>Not surprising. >Even with both running all I get from the Skilter is daytime white froth with a ring of only enough green gunk to stick to the lid of the collector box. >>Then you effectively have no skimmer.  Since money is an issue I suggest searching our site for (IIRC) Ananda's soda bottle skimmer.  It's ugly, but it works (from what I've gathered). >Do I run the Skilter's aerator full throttle? >>I would.  The issue with skimmers is having sufficient contact time--air bubbles in contact with the material being skimmed. >Do I need to upgrade the air pump to something more powerful? >>Why waste your money?  Save up to get a quality unit instead, in the meantime deal with your problems via water changes (though truthfully, they cost you as well). >I assume there's enough junk in the tank to feed the Cyano, but I can't get much out with the Skilter. >>Shows you what quality is, doesn't it?  LOL!!  I'm just kidding, but only a bit. >Penultimate question: will my green filament algae (came with one piece of LR from another tank) die off eventually with good husbandry? >>It could, but at this point you need to get your tank fully cycled (which, btw, could cause problems with your anemone) before you can determine what your nutrient export demands will really be.  Over-filtration is generally far better than under, however. >Last question: Because it's a shallow tank, the actinic and regular lamps don't mix well, so I swap the lamps front to back every couple of days to hit the LR at the back and the anemone and Caulerpa in front. >>Not sure I understand what you're saying.  Live rock doesn't need lighting, your anemone does.  Also, actinics aren't a necessary component of lighting, they are more for aesthetics.  Look here for information on lighting--> http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm >It is time to replace the wide-spectrum lamp. As I eventually want to end up with a Walsh-style nano-reef with a little soft coral, should I just go to all 50/50's, or just get a 10,000K for the anemone for now, keep swapping, and change to PCs when the tank is mature?    Many Thanks! >>What you first need to do is decide what you *really* want to keep.  Putting in animals such as soft corals and leathers in a tank (*especially* such a small tank!) with an anemone is a bad idea.  If you want the anemone, then keep it just to that.  It could (with good husbandry) soon outgrow that 20 gallon, too.  If it does, then you move it to its own tank (50gal or larger) then you can consider the corals in the 20.  Good luck!  Marina

Skilter Off Kilter? Hello crew: <Hi there! Scott F. with you today!> I have a 44 gallon aquarium with a Skilter 250. I know  the skimmer is not that great but it does its job fairly well. <That's all that counts! If it's working for you, be happy!> But then a got a Magnum 350 ( with the carbon filter), and now my skimmer in not skimming any foam out of my aquarium! Is this because the mag is doing both of the jobs? <Well, hard to say. It may be for a variety of reasons, ranging from different water flow, "tension", etc. Probably not a function of the Magnum removing organics, but more of a function of hydrodynamics...Give it time- I think it will resume skimming again.> I know I can retro fit my Skilter to work better but I don't know how. Can you help me on this? <As far as I know, the best way to modify the performance of the skimmer is to adjust the air flow...You may want to contact the manufacturer and see if they have any other suggestions for this...> Thanks for all you do!!!!!! <And thanks for paying us a visit...Good luck! Regards, Scott F>

Skilter Question Just purchased a "Skilter 250" for the purpose of skimming my 55g FOWLR tank in conjunction with my Penguin 400.  (Not the best skimmer, I know I know….(now anyway))   It's been in for a week now and all that happens is a few big bubbles that make it to the top of the tube where they expire, nothing in the collection cup at all… I've tried the valve almost wide open for a day, half-way for a day, etc.  My LFS hinted that it takes a while for some sort of "build up" to occur in the tube before it really starts dumping skimmate.  By the way, I'm sure there's stuff in there to skim, tank is 9 months old, <... this is enough time for "build up"> 1 yellow tang, 1 hippo and 2 clowns. All tests are good, Nitrites 0, except for Nitrates (80ppm) Should I modify this thing, give it more time, or what? <Have seen some modifications... placing a fine airstone (hooked up to an air pump, with check valve...) with the stone inserted straight down the middle of the middle (with the cover left off the Skilter collector cup)... but, I would return this unit to the store if you really want a skimmer, save up and buy a real one. Bob Fenner> Thanks heaps, David

Skilter modification? Good Morning To All- I was reading about Tom Walsh's 20 gal tanks and I was wondering about the modification that he made with his Skilter. The article says he uses a wooden airstone in the contact chamber, powered by a Whisper airpump. I was wondering...what size airstone (any size that fits in the 'tube')?, what size airpump (to power only 1 Skilter) and finally, do you still use the 'air flow adjuster' on the Skilter itself or just the wooden airstone? <I was there, wrote the piece. It was a "regular" small wooden (Ash?) airstone (need to be air-dried, switched out quite regularly... maybe weekly... Best tested with "bio-assay" of your trying to blow through line instead of airpump... if you can't do easily, than time to switch)... and a "II" equivalent diaphragm type air pump (Tetra's/ESU's Luft Pump is ideal here)... and the regular aspiration line was still employed on the Skilter> Any insight would be greatly appreciated! In case you were wondering...I have a 20 gal tank myself (running for almost 4 years now) and I've always just used the Skimmer part of the Skilter on an "as needed basis" (usually 2-3 nights per week, I don't usually run it during the day because I really hate all the bubbles it generates and sends into the tank...it just looks bad, in my opinion)...will the airstone modification help to reduce the number of bubbles that get into the tank?  <Yes, should> It seems to me like it might...??? Thanks for your help (again)! Ann <Bob Fenner>

Skilter retrofit - 5/7/03 Hello again: <Sooooo sorry for the delay. Have not only been trying to prepare for the close of my marine biology course but my job is really busy at the moment. Paul at your service (albeit very very delayed)>   Thanx for your reply, <No problem> I thought you had forgotten about me!!! <Never, a matter of checking my inbox and getting the time to answer. So sorry for the delays> But I have another???(sorry) What did you mean by retro fitting my Skilter??? <I know people add airstones and do some other retro fits I cannot name specifically any retrofit or vouch for its use. Check out the various forums and DIY sites out there and ask about Skilters and ways to improve performance on them. I personally have never employed the use of the Skilter system but have seen it's use in some impressive tanks.>  I'm willing!!! I would like to know how, can you help me on this? <I will keep your email and try to get some help for you, in the meantime, just do a search in google for "Skilter" or "Skilter DIY". Here is a starter link for you to look through http://home1.gte.net/rhe1/nanoreef/comingsoon.htm. Good luck> do you know some one who can!!! THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR YOUR TIME!!! <My pleasure. Sorry for the delay>

Skilter Modification (Follow-up) I just wanted to let you know that I went ahead and tried the Skilter modification that Tom W. uses on his 20 gal tanks and I must say that the amount and 'quality' of my skimmate(?) has greatly improved. (High quality skimmate...now that is funny!) Also, I have not been using the Skilter's air producing ability at all. As a result the number of bubbles going into the tank has decreased dramatically. Thanks for sharing the information. My fish, inverts and I are much happier for it! <Glad to hear it. Will post on the daily page and file under the proper FAQ to help others. -Steven Pro>

Are there any HOT skimmers small enough for a 10 gallon nano tank? Ana M. Saavedra <There are a few, but not many. Most people with 10 gallon nanos rely on 10% weekly water changes, rather than skimmers, to get rid of nutrients. Some of the hang-on-tank skimmers that will physically fit on a 10 gallon tank include the Prizm and the Skilter; there may be others. While neither of these are particularly popular with people with larger tanks, they can work out okay on small tanks. The Skilter can be modified to make it more efficient. You could also put a bigger/better skimmer in a sump. There are some threads about this on the WetWebFotos discussion forum. Also check out the www.nano-reef.com forums for various viewpoints on the pros and cons of assorted small skimmers. --Ananda>

Skilter purchase Hello all! This is a simple one for you. I want to upgrade my little Skilter 400 I am using on my 55 gallon reef. It does a lousy job skimming! Can you please RECOMMEND what to buy? I just don't want to do any more guess work on this issue! Thanks a lot! -Pamela <I will help, but nothing beats you learning and making an informed, educated guess. Take a look at the CPR Bak-Pak and the Aqua-C Remora with Maxi jet pump. -Steven Pro>

Re: Skilter purchase What do you think of this? Sea Clone AQS08111 Reg: $119.95 Our Price: $68.99 thanks! <I would use it if it were free. -Steven Pro>

Re: Skilter purchase Ahhhhhh, that bad! <Pamela, I am sorry. I mistyped. I meant to say I WOULDN'T use it if it were free. And I literally mean it. I have one sitting in my laundry room. Got for free for a comparison test I did for a local store. Hooked up the SeaClone and ran it against the Prizm from Red Sea in a controlled test. The Prizm was better, but there are even better choices out there. I get the sense you are looking for another, maybe cheaper option, than the others previously mentioned (Aqua-C, CPR, Euro-Reef). If so, take a look at the Excalibur here http://www.championlighting.com/. I have used these before. They perform reasonably well and are fairly quiet. -Steven Pro>

Re: Skilter purchase Don't worry Steven, I'm still learning, just a bit tired these days, you know the drill... work, kids, $$$$, etc! <Pam...just to throw my hat into the ring: if there is a tank upgrade or significant additional invertebrate purchases planned in the 2-3 year plan, I would consider investing in something even higher shelved like a Euroreef skimmer. You don't hear complaints about that beast of a skimmer. Kind regards, Anthony>

Skimmer question Hi Bob, I'm going to order my rock for delivery this Saturday. I have an old 55 gal setup for curing it. For skimming the tank, I have two Skilter filters and a Turboflotor. I'd like to use the Skilters simply because they're easy to maintain for the curing process (skimming and mechanical). The Turbo is hooked to my show tank now. This wouldn't be a major undertaking to move it to the curing tank, but if I could get away with the Skilters, it would make life easier.  Would the Skilters (2) provide enough skimming for the curing process? <Only way to tell is to try them out... if the rock's in good shape... probably so> Also, should I use carbon right from the start in the curing tank? <I wouldn't... might slow down the curing process... maybe add it if there is much of a "spike" in ammonia, nitrite> Thanks again, Tony Revinski <You're welcome again, Bob Fenner>