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Sandsifters and grain size 4/10/18 Substrate Vacuuming 36 Inch Deep Aquarium
10/17/16 Sand bottom ; maint. 6/29/14Hello again Mr. F, how are you? I hope everything is fine. I have added the 2 Z. Flavescens in the DT and they are doing fine. <Good. Do keep your eyes on them... can become territorial, fight if kept too long in close confines together> I have another question: on the bottom of my 250 gallon SPS dominated ( finally !!!! ) tank there is a layer of approx. 2-3 cm of fine sand. I know the depth is wrong, <Actually... this amount or several times it is fine> it is the last reminiscence of a long series of initial mistakes..., and I already have a RDSB in the basement as you may remember. The question is what should I do to keep this thin layer of sand clean. <Either the use of "sand stirring" organisms, and/or the occasional vacuuming, stirring during regular water changes> Given the rock formations and corals it is impossible to siphon it. There are areas unreachable. <Perhaps a small motorized water pump you can direct by hand...> I don't want a bare bottom . In your opinion what would be the best approach? <Mmm, read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/maintenance/maintindex.htm the first and third trays> To take it all out and wash it from all the detritus accumulated and then put it back in form of a very thin layer ( 0.5 cm )? - a very difficult task in a tank full of sensitive fish and corals . ( and the old Cryptocaryon problem that is under control for months now but still visible ). Or put some sand stirring goby in and let them do the job. If so , how many and what species. <Ah yes; see the above linked files> Or leave it as it is given the fact that the corals are doing great and the Cyano has almost disappeared ? But what will happened in the future, the detritus will continue to accumulate. Or stir it with a stick until all the detritus accumulated goes out and then continue to keep it cleaned by stirring. In there are some Nassarius snails, some sand stirring stars ( I know they don't belong in there ) <Do report back what you've settled on Andrei; and how it is working for you. Bob Fenner> Salt Water questions; stkg. Ecsenius, Cirrhilabrus,
vacuuming fine sand, mas... 8/31/13 Sand/Substrates, used, cleaning for
re-use 5/17/2011 Sandbed cleaning 3/9/11 Weird sand, 4/13/10 LS Bed Vacuuming/Algae Control
1/4/10 Soapy Sand: Best not to keep it.
12/10/2009 Re: Substrate Follow-Up
Questions 9/1/2009 Grading and Rinsing Oolitic Sand... (or not)? ~ 01/09/09 Greetings WWM Crew, <<Hello Brian>> Thank you so much for your fine work! <<Ah, quite welcome'¦a collaborative effort>> I've been reading over your many archives for a year, slowly acquiring gear (as I can afford) in anticipation of setting up a FOWLR, eventually (hopefully) reef system. <<Mmm, yes'¦ The planning and anticipation, indeed the *shopping*, is a time of much enjoyment. At least it was/is for me>> My confusion, if you'd be so kind to entertain a question and comment re, <<Certainly>> concerns the necessity (or desirability) of rinsing Oolitic DSB substrates. <<Ah'¦>> Advice and opinion on this seems to go from yes to no. <<Indeed'¦ And valid arguments to both. But my choice based on my experience re is to rinse'¦ rinse a lot'¦>> As background, given my fiscal constraints and the high cost (for 5-6 inch, main tank DSB in a 300G system) of "branded" packaged Oolitic/Aragonite, <<Hee-hee! Indeed! I have a 375g reef display with a DSB consisting of about 1,200 lbs of sugar-fine Aragonite, with another 300 lbs in a refugium. Lucky for me at the time, I was able to obtain 50 lb bags of Aragonite *play* sand for about $7.00 a bag versus the approximately $1.00 per pound for the, as you say, *branded* variety>>. finding discontinued availability of Southdown and Yard right, <<Mmm, yes'¦ A huge loss to the hobby, or rather, the hobbyist>> I spent several months doing some serious "snooping" around in search of cheaper Oolitic sand alternatives. <<Do tell!>> After considerable time spent on intelligence gathering, I located a source of Oolitic sand reportedly mined offshore of, I believe, the Bahamas. <<And very likely the same source for the previously mentioned and now defunct play-sand brands>> So, I hopped in the truck armed with a cup and a bottle of vinegar. I was surprised and pleased to find a 300-400 ton pile of clean Oolitic sand which, when tested, bubbled nicely in vinegar. <<Excellent>> I purchased (legally) 1300lbs (what the truck could hold) for $18 dollars (US). <<Wow! A superb deal for sure!>> This sand, however, is not "graded". <<'¦? I would not expect it to be a *consistent* grade. But if true Oolitic it should all still be very small/fine. But even if not so/if it contains some larger grains it should still work fine as is>> Upon return home, I devised two sieve drum-screens (for lack of better term) and spent the next two-weeks-of-nights manually rotating the drums, sifting the sand. <<Yikes'¦ A lot of work. And probably unnecessary>> I ended up with approximately 700lbs of fine sand (.00? to .75mm), 350lbs of medium (.75 to 1.5mm) and 250lbs of coarse sand (1.5mm to 3mm). <<Ah'¦ As alluded, this would all have been fine combined as obtained>> I want to achieve 15 to 20x circulation via use of an OM 4-way and closed-loop manifold. So, to get an idea of potential clouding problems I tested the finest-grade sand, placing about 1/2 cup into a quart of H20. As expected, the "fines" (particles barely visible to naked eye) in the sand totally clouded the water. <<Yep>> Sitting undisturbed in the jar, the cloudiness took 24+ hours to become crystal clear. <<Uh-huh>> Slight movement of the jar and plume trails rise off the sand surface. <<Yep>> My question, actually questions, is as follows: 1. Is it necessary or desirable to rinse this sand (especially the fine grade) prior to placement? <<Maybe not necessary, but I would/do'¦ With water movement, and unless filtered out by your equipment, these fine particles can really cloud the water for days. I also really don't like the mess these *fines* make of the system/decor/equipment/et al., and though some argue the fines can/will do much towards boosting alkaline/bio-mineral content, I find what is left after washing these away also does this just, er'¦ fine>> My plan is to place LFS-cured LR first, sand second so as to stabilize the rock work and then seed with live sand. <<A fine plan'¦ And one you will enjoy more if you first rinse the sand to prevent the live rock from being coated by the fines (yeah you can blow these off'¦ but then your water is all cloudy again>>>> I've read in various forums, including Dr. Shimek's work, that it is "desirable" to keep the "fines" (as in "mud") <<No argument, but better in a refugium with a lower flow rate than in the display in my opinion... Unless the display is a biotope geared towards such>> ...but the problem of clouding would, I presume, potentially continue indefinitely with DSB critter disturbance and given 15-20x desired circulation. <<Not indefinitely, as these very tiny particles will *eventually* settle out in your sump/places of low flow and also be removed by your skimmer, with time>> 2. Would it be advisable to layer...place the .00? to .75mm to a depth of 3-4 inches and then place another 1-2 inches of the .75 to 1.5mm on top of that to perhaps reduce clouding until the super-fines (.00? to .05) dissolve or amalgamate? <<You can'¦ And though it may make some small difference it won't be much I think. But it also won't hurt to give it a try>> 3. Can or should I use the larger grade (1.5 to 3mm) for anything?...perhaps in some configuration (maybe separated horizontal layers or vertical "walls") in the refugium for POD production? <<This too you can do'¦ Though I would just mix it all together and use as is>> Can the larger grade potentially be used in a calcium reactor? <<Indeed it can>> 4. Have I wasted my time separating grades? <<[grin] I would not have bothered with such>> Could or should I have used this sand "as is" with the various particle sizes naturally all mixed up? <<Indeed you could have/can do>> Any opinions or guidance you might provide would be very much appreciated. <<You can go either way'¦ And I think this is also a bigger *deal* when adding sand to an established system as opposed to new'¦ But though it takes a lot of work *I* would definitely rinse the sand of the fines before use'¦ And with the volumes/ratios you listed, I would also not be concerned with separation of the particle sizes>> Warmest Regards, Brian <<Happy to share. Eric Russell>> Tiny bubbles, from substrate 9/29/08 Hello again! <Pavlo> As usual, I turn to you for your advice. My 120 FOWLR - soon to be a reef, has been maturing nicely for 9 months now. I have been able to keep all my parameters steady, right where I want them (will get to them in a min.) All is good except for some Aiptasia that keeps coming back. I just tried injecting lemon juice - we'll see how that works. <Do look into, try the Red Sea product "Aiptasia-X"... a winner here> My main concern are these tiny bubbles that appear on the substrate & float off whenever a hermit walks over. When I injected an Aiptasia that was sitting on the substrate LOTS of larger bubbles started percolating from that area of substrate (not from the syringe). I have seen mention of nitrogen bubbles in some WWM postings, and it seems like I shouldn't worry, but I just want to make sure. My parameters are temp 81, S.G 1.025, ammonia, nitrite & nitrate all 0, phosphate 0, ph 8.2, ca 400, KH 8 (as per Elos tests). They have been like this steady for the past 8 months. The tank is a 120, w/ a 30 gal refugium with a 4 inch DSB & Chaetomorpha for export, 200 lb LR and lightly stocked with a Tomini tang, oblique lined Basslet & 2 Talbots damsels. More to come of course, but going slowly. Another question, if I may - what would you recommend as a good beginner coral? <Posted... on WWM... perhaps a Corallimorph> I have 2x150w MH with 4 54w T5's - hopefully this will be enough to sustain some coral life. Any ideas? <Reading> Thanks for the invaluable insights that you provide. Pavlo <I would be vacuuming your substrate each time you do water changes, looking into root cause/s re the gas in/about the substrate... is this too coarse? Too much food? Too little circulation? Low RedOx? Bob Fenner> Sand Washing 7/18/08 WWM Crew or Bob, <Hello! Benjamin here> I've been around long enough to know that I have to wash any new sand I add to my aquarium, but what about washing old sand -- I have a rather deep tank and though I try I get dead spots in the sand and this occasionally results in Cyano outbreaks. I stir, I adjust powerheads and I also siphon but to get it clean I often remove quite a bit of sand from the tank. As a result I am constantly adding new sand to keep my DSB in place. Is it possible for me to simply wash the siphoned sand clean and return it to the tank? <You bet! Rinse it well to get any detritus or microfauna/flora out, and it's good to go for round two.> Derek <Benjamin> Cleaning Sand and Feeding Gobies 06/02/2008 Hello, <<Good evening, Andrew today>> My fiancé© and I have had a 38 gallon tank for almost 2 years now and we have never had clean sand! We have tried everything from sand sifting stars that disintegrate in days, to a huge clean up crew that resulted in hermits eating all our snails, to our favorite the golden headed sleeper goby. But we were never properly educated by the store we bought him from. They told us as long as he has fine grain sand he'll be fine. WRONG! <<Yikes...Very wrong>> He starved in about a month. We have been reading up and we know about the copepods but do we really need a refuge tank? We are very limited with space and money and the refuge isn't really any option at all. <<Not even one of the cheap hang on refugiums? They really are low cost and are of great benefit to your system, especially to promote copepod growth, nutrient export>> We really want to get our sand clean again. We recently added 20 Nassarius snails but they aren't doing much either We would love to get another goby but we don't want another one to starve. Any suggestions? <<Getting another goby is not really a good option, as your already aware, as it will starve also as there is obviously a lack of food in the substrate. I would suggest getting some low flow going over the sandbed. This will stop particles settling, and keep it in the water column to be removed via filtration. Maybe up the filtration level on the tank. Don't know what your tank system is, so, cannot really comment much more on that side of it>> Thanks, The Tuggs <<Thanks for the questions, hope this helps. A Nixon>>
Stirring Substrate With Water Changes 4/9/08 Good Evening Crew! <Good eve Gans.> I have a crushed coral substrate. Before I do water changes I stir up the substrate with a small power head to get all the junk out which then gets collected in the skimmer. Is this a good thing to do? <Yes, I would with this substrate too.> I heard the substrate houses a lot of beneficial organisms. Will doing something stirring up the substrate harm then in anyway? <No, leaving the substrate alone applies more to sandy substrates. In this case you may even want to gravel vacuum with your water changes to siphon out the maximum amount of detritus.> Cheers Gans <Best regards, Scott V.> Substrate Clumping/Binding -- 04/03/08 Howdy Crew. <<Hiya, Paul>> I have a question regarding my aragonite substrate solidifying over time. <Okay>> I have read the responses you have regarding some of the causes, high levels of Calcium and Alkalinity combined with high pH. <<Is one cause, yes>> What I wanted to know was what levels of Calcium and dKH would do this? <<Mmm, generally those levels of Carbonates that bring your Alkalinity levels to the higher end of the accepted scale (8-12 dKH)'¦which coupled with a high pH, allow increased formation of Calcite crystals to clump your substrate together>> My tank is about 120 gallons. Temperatures run 79 -- 81. pH during the day is about 8.35 or so. The calcium level is 390 -- 405 and the dKH is 8.8 -- 9.6. <<Hmm'¦looks okay>> The lower levels in the calcium and dKH were what it is currently after my water change, the higher being what they drift up to before the water change. <<Drift up? How so 'are you supplementing?>> Neither level seems very high <<Not excessively, no>> '¦why do I continue to have this problem? <<Not sure'¦ Perhaps the clumping is due to abundant microbial activity (organic bonding), rather than a result of mineral deposits. Also, it seems I've heard/read that excessive precipitation of Phosphate can 'bind' a substrate as well>> How do I prevent this? <<Determine the true cause'¦ Stop supplementing Alkaline substances (if indeed you are doing so) and see what happens. Increase water flow'¦ Reduce Phosphate'¦ Stop dosing Kalkwasser'¦ Back-off on the Calcium reactor'¦>> I have added a few Nassarius snails to help out. <<A larger bio-turbator may help 'something along the line of an Engineer Goby (e.g. -- Amblygobius phalaena)>> I can try to break up the sand every few days, but should this be occurring? <<Ideally, no>> Does everyone have this issue? <<Many do experience such issues 'but not 'everyone'>> Thanks so much for you time. Paul <<Well Paul, I don't think I've been a lot of help here 'but based on the information you have provided I don't see any immediate red flags 'it will likely take some more investigative work to determine the root of the problem here. Regards, EricR>>
My sand bed, maint. -01/05/08 Hello! First, your site is quite informative, I love it. I have finally got my hands on Anthony's, Coral Propagation book and love it! Please let him know. I'm not a farmer just yet, but his book is great for all levels of Aquariology. That being said, I have a 5.5 gallon mixed reef. I have various Zoanthids, Leathers as well as Blastomussa and Micromussa. My tank has app. 12 lbs of mixed live rock- I like all-. I have a 1 inch mixed sand bed of Florida crushed coral aragonite and fine white sand. My filtration, along with the live rock consist of an Aquaclear mini, with sponge then filter floss and carbon, a remora nano skimmer and a micro-jet powerhead for a little more movement. My livestock, other then the mixed coral consist of 3 Blue-legged Hermits, 3 Astrea snails, 1 Cerith, an Emerald crab for bubble algae removal, and a Bluefin Damsel ( he has another home once he's no longer juvenile). The tank has been up and flourishing for 10 months, with coralline and Chaeto flourishing. Everything is covered in purple. My levels are- Cal:500, alk:9, phos:0, nitrate:0, nitrite:0, ph:8.4, and salinity:1.26. I do every 3 days a 5 percent water change. My question after all this, will my 1 inch mixed sand bed give me problems further down the road? I have an alarming amount of life throughout it. Various worms, sandsifters, pods, snails. <The sand bed should be fine so long as the benthic populations stay healthy. However, being so shallow, it won't likely function as much of a nutrient filter/nitrate reducer.> I do not siphon my sand bed, but when I perform water changes I blast it. I take a turkey baster and blast the sand with it. In a way I think of it as a storm in the ocean stirring everything up. <...not a bad idea.> I have noticed on occasion that some of the sand bed seems to be fused together, not like a clump but as a loose clump. <Very small, loose clumps probably won't hurt anything.> Thank you for your time. Also on a side note I had a chance to get my hands on the elusive Blane's Purple People Eater Zoanthid and it since has budded. <cool... congrats.> Thank you again, and happy reefing, Joe <Best, Sara M.> Substrate Help please!! - 10/07/2007 Good afternoon guys, Howzit? Hope everything is going well. Summer is over already?! <Hello! Where does the time go?> Anyways, I just have a quick substrate question. I have a 46g reef tank. 5 months old. Alk-8.6 Cal-450. Everything good except I now have STICKY sand. When the sand gets stirred it clumps together in small balls of maybe 10-15 grains of the sand. I have never seen this before and very confused. Is my calcium to high and its somehow effecting the sand like that. Let me know what you guys think. Thanks. <This is a common occurrence with sand clumping. It happens in systems with both deep Sand Beds and Plenums. The sand is calcifying together thru precipitates. Simply rake thru the sand and break up the clumps. You can increase the number of sand dwelling creatures like Cerith snails to help stir the sand bed. Some gobies also work well as sand sifters.-Rich...aka Mr. Firemouth> Black Sand? Joseph and the Multicolored Sandbed 8/1/07 Hi, <Hi Joseph, Mich here.> I love your site, and have found quite a bit of good info. Recently I was looking under the cabinet of one of my aquariums, and I looked up to see that the sand around the overflow has turned black, not a lot of it, but it worries me, just a couple of small mildly blackened areas about 3/8² by 2². I set this aquarium up about 4 months ago. It is a 45-gallon tall tank, with about a 4² sand bed, it also has a converted 18 Gallon tall tank converted to a refugium. I have never had readable levels of ammonia, nitrite or nitrate. I haven¹t disturbed it as I¹m worried that it may poison the tank. I was wondering if there is a safe way to clean this, or if I even need to be concerned. Please advise soon. I¹ve been told not to worry, but I wanted to check with you to be sure. <I do not think there is any cause for worry... won't change anything anyhow. Just vacuum the area gradually over time.> Thank You, <Welcome, Mich> Joseph Vacuuming sand bed 7/5/07 Hello <Hi there. Mich here.> I have CaribSea live sand ( very fine sugar grade [ I believe between 4 to 5 kilos] ) in my nano reef with live rock and an Eheim external filter for filtration (the smallest in their external filter range). <OK.> Sand bed residents are three Nerite snails and many tiny snails I haven't identified but don't grow more than 2 millimeters long and the microscopic fauna typical of a sand bed. <OK.> Other inhabitants of the tank are X1 clown fish X1 brittle/serpent star 6lbs of live rock Colony of brown mushrooms Sea grass (used as nutrient export) <OK.> My question is should I periodically vacuum the sand bed? <Yes. This should be done periodically, a small portion at a time, not the entire bed at once.> I don't want to upset the microbial balance of the sand or stop it acting as an efficient filter yet I don't want the sand bed to produce toxins. Cause for concern is darkening of the sand in appearance with areas of deeper depths of 3 inches. Colouration is a light coffee brown. Would this be bacteria/algae/organic matter? <Any are possibilities, and not likely cause for concern.> Many thanks <Welcome! Mich> Question... New substrate dust-cloud, SW -- 07/01/07 Hi Crew, many an hour spent on your site, thanks ! I have been researching a possible answer for my question but have not found one yet, I'm sorry if I missed out on something or just plain dumb... I have been gradually setting up a 55gl FOWLR for over a month, letting rocks and sand establish with a couple powerheads heater etc. I have recently decided the sand depth was not adequate, as my aquarium is long the inch per 1.5lb was not deep, so I purchased some CaribSea crushed coral to mix in with the sand... I "lightly" rinsed the coral in a bucket in the shower, put in the aquarium which has now been totally clouded and full of dust for over 12hr. visibility is close to zero. <Needed to rinse more...> i removed the rocks this morning and put them in buckets with saltwater, because I'm afraid the sediment might harm them (there seemed to be many little growth developing) have executed a %50 water change and wiped the glass which was totally dusty inside. I left powerheads on. What else can I do ? <Mmm, run a Diatom (tm) filter might be best... Check with your LFS to see if they have such for rental, loan> do you think the rocks are damaged or should I just leave them in the tank? <Mmm... hard to impossible to say from here... but likely not irreparably harmed...> Also, btw, when I removed the largest rock it had a very strong sulphuric odor (like a rotten egg). <Not necessarily associated with the dust storm...> Thanks, I hope you have some advice and I would like to warn people to rinse their products very, very, thoroughly. <Thank you... Another simple route is to gravel-vacuum all... a few times... over a week or two's time... Again, do ask your local fish stores re the Diatom filter use/borrowing. Bob Fenner> Re: Preventing Sandstorms/"Rubble Bottoms" (Cont'd.) 6/22/07 Hey there again :) I have questions on your comments below: <Okay!> I've ready on WetWebMedia that having rubble bottoms is a no-no because of nitrate production. <I disagree. Live rock and rock rubble still harbor bacteria capable of denitrification. I have ran systems with "rubble bottoms" for years without any detectible nitrate. The keys ARE brisk circulation, careful feeding, and consistent maintenance...like in any system. No magic here.> However, you talk about husbandry <More like "ramble..." LOL> .. if I clean up detritus by sucking everything up with a vacuum, won't I also suck up the good critters also? Jason <Potentially, sure. My point is NOT to suck up every drop of detritus in the system. Just some of the obvious excess. Think about it. What exactly is the point of keeping the aquarium "sterile"? We're not doing surgery or delivering babies in our aquariums, after all! In my opinion, this belief harkens back to some of the bad interpretations of the "Berlin School" of marine aquarium husbandry, in which many hobbyists obsessively siphoned out every bit of detritus in their systems in an effort to maintain high water quality. Unfortunately, in recent years, some reef hobbyists have continued to perpetuate this belief on the message boards with "bare bottom" methodologies, live rock "cooking", etc. Think about it for a moment. What exactly is so bad about some detritus in a system? Much of it is essentially inert material, already broken down by organisms within the aquarium. Some is not. Regardless, many organisms that we keep (corals, fishes and other inverts) utilize these materials as nutritional sources. It's perfectly okay to have some in your system. It's all about balance...The point is that you should not allow large quantities of uneaten food and fish waste to accumulate in the system. Regular manual removal of this stuff through siphoning when you conduct your weekly water changes will help export it out of the system. If some remains, it's not the end of the world, IMO. In an otherwise healthy system, fishes and other organisms will utilize it as a supplemental food source. Okay- off my soapbox now! Hope this helps! Regards, Scott F.> Bleaching sand -- 5/13/07 Hi. <Hello!> I have sort of a crazy question, not the first one you've received I'm sure. <Heee! You're correct there!> Is it possible/safe to bleach sand that will be used as the substrate in a reef aquarium? <Hmm, I don't know.> I know it sounds a little crazy, <Yep!> but I'm asking because I found some sand at a local Wal-Mart that I was going to use in the display tank. It's silica based of course and has a very yellow color. I found similar sand at a pet store that costs literally more than 10 times as much and is also silica based but pure white and looks much nicer, IMO. I'd much rather spend $8 on the sand as opposed to $90 but really like the look of the white sand. So could I bleach the yellow sand to make it whiter? <I would not do this. There are better alternatives out there that are not only white, but also not silica based. Silica sand tends be abrasive to bottom swelling creatures. I would avoid using this in the display for the welfare of your tank inhabitant. Look for formerly Southdown, now Oldcastle play sand it is inexpensive, can usually be found at you local home improvement store and is aragonite/calcium carbonate based. You can test for this by putting a pinch of sand in some white vinegar and it bubbles you have a calcium based sand.> I could then let it soak with a dechlorinator for months if need be to removed any residue from the bleach. I'm only using about an inch of this sand in the display and have another 6-8 inches of aragonite for the refugium, so I am not concerned that it is silica based and has no buffering properties. <Why not use the aragonite based sand that you are using in the sump. It would be a better alternative in my opinion.> I also thought of using peroxide. I know it's used to whiten bones or teeth sometimes, not sure if it would have any effect on silica based sand. <I don't know if either peroxide or bleach would have an effect, but again I would encourage you to use an aragonite-based sand.> It's purely for aesthetic reasons, but I read on the back of a filtering product (Purigen) that it can be recharged by bleaching and then using a dechlorinator to make it safe for the aquarium. I figured why not try it on the sand and see if it turns whiter. Any thoughts, other than this is a crazy idea? <Definitely agree with the latter part!> Thank you again for your help and wonderful site. <Welcome! Glad you like the site! Mich> White Spots on Sand 4/24/07 Hello, <Hi> My Question is: My tank has been up for about 5-6 weeks now, with 2 damsels, I have notice that the are white furry balls on the sand, some are flat and the water has a yellowish tint to it. <Sounds like rotting food or other decaying organic material.> I have done 20% water change to see if that cleared it up, but it didn't. <Seems like a water quality problem, keep changing out 20% or so, every few days if possible.> I'm wondering, is all this part of the cycle, I'm a truck driver and my wife don't even want to put her hands on the tank, so I do everything when I get home, please let me know what is going on, because I can't get her to take the test for amm. and nitrite and all the other one, she makes me so angry. Please help, thanks <Seems like you have water quality problems, my guess is that if you can get these under control you will see the water clear.> <Chris> Sand Bed, clumping... 3/28/07 My sand bed in clumping together. I have anywhere from small to very large chunks of sand clumping together like a rock. What may be causing this? <Most likely mis-adding supplements... though... there are organisms, just chemical situations in which "cementing" occurs...> How can I prevent this in the future? I have a 90 gallon tank that has been set up for 3 months. I have Carib Sea Arag-Alive Reef sand (1.0 - 2.0 mm) to a depth of 5 inches. 100 lbs of LR. My turnover rate is 26 times an hour. My alkalinity is @ 11 dKH, calcium @ 360 ppm, phosphates @ 0, ammonia @ 0, nitrites @ 0, nitrates @0, & ph @ 8.3. I have not touched the sand bed since it has been in the tank for 3 months (stirring or siphoning). Please Help, John Ucci <John, do you add alkalinity, and/or biomineral products? If so or not, I would do a periodic stirring, perhaps gentle vacuuming to this sand bed... one half/side per time when you're doing water changes. Bob Fenner> Sand in Sheets?
BGA problem... 3/4/07 First, <Second...oh we're
not playing that game, sorry.> let me say thanks in advance for any
help you can provide. <You are welcome.> My sand is
starting to from sheets on top. I have started noticing this
a few weeks ago after 15 months of operation. A week ago, I
scooped a bunch of it out during a water change. It seemed
to be stuck together in sheets by some sort of greenish/brownish algae.
<Sounds like blue-green algae, Cyanobacteria. What is your source
water? Water chemistry?> What could be causing this?
<Phosphates, nitrates and nutrient problems in general. Also water
flow and lighting spectrum.> I have 3 Maxi-Jet
1200's in the display for water movement. My sump/fuge
is a 25g aquarium with a fuge section in the middle with 4-5 inches of
live sand, Chaeto, live rock rubble. The return is a RIO
3100. <Careful with this pump brand.> Lighting on the display is
from 2 Iwasaki 14k bulbs each powered by an Ice Cap electronic
ballast. I run them about 10 hours per day. One
comes on an hour earlier and goes off an hour earlier than the other.
<Why don't you respond with the questions I asked above and we
can try to figure it out from there, also see the WWM: FAQs on the
subject. Also at what depth is the sand and what is it's make-up?
Thick (crushed coral) or small (oolitic)?>
Thanks, Gerald Gibson <Adam
J.> New tank-nothing but water, sand and
ammonia??? Dear All! Thanks for being such an inclusive resource
for me in my year of planning and saving and stressing about my
first saltwater tank! It's been a terrific resource, however,
I didn't find any info about the issue I am currently having.
I am in the process of converting a 42 gallon hex
freshwater tank into a marine set up (ideally a reef set up
once I am out of my apartment). <Heeee!> This is a
plan that has been in the making for over a year and I'm finally
in the final stages, <Very exciting> however, my water
quality seems to have gotten ahead of me somehow. I
don't have an RO/DI system yet, so after cleaning the
tank (just water) I filled it up and let it sit for two
weeks before adding sand. The sand was added
another week and a half ago. I just added the salt last
night (expecting to get my live rock shipment) but that's not going
to be shipped at least for another week now. <Good...>
I tested the water this morning just to get a baseline so I
could track the cycling process and was shocked at
the results. The temperature of the water is at 79 degrees
Fahrenheit, my pH is at 8.2, my specific gravity is at
1.024-1.025 and my alkalinity is
at 3.5, however, my ammonia is at 3.5
ppm, my nitrites are at 0.15 ppm, and my nitrates are at 3.5
ppm. <Good that you have a mix/spectrum of all stages of
nitrification> Why did this happen? How did this
happen? Could it be residue from the previous freshwater set
up or the result of some stray cat hair? <Heeeee! Not the
last... very likely this material came in/about from either the salt
mix and/or the sand... and not to worry... Should actually assist you
in establishing cycling and curing your rock> Has it begun the
process of cycling with on it's own? <Ah, yes> Do I
need to start from scratch and bleach the tank? <No... I
would not> My tapwater does not flag any of these things
when tested, and I haven't had any of these issues with
my freshwater tank. Do I need to pick up some pieces of live
rock from my LFS while waiting for my Tampa bay rock to come
in so that the TBS rock doesn't get an ammonia dip?
<No... not likely to be an issue... some further decomposition from
the new LR will likely contribute more ammonia... see WWM re curing
LR... Water Quality FAQs for the same> Or am I worried for no reason
and everything will be ok. <Very likely the latter>
This is my first saltwater tank (I've been lusting after
them ever since I was six and lived in Monterey Bay) and I
really want it to go well. I've also had two Aquaclear
20 powerheads running, I have an Excalibur hang on skimmer (rated
at 100 gallons and purchased used) running just so I can
figure out water movement, and I am also planning to set up
a 12 gallon nano as a refugium for the hex. The sand is 2
1/2 to 3 inches deep (forty pounds of aragonite) <Mmm... oh, I see
this below> and I am also getting in another 30 pounds of
live sand for cycling and to flesh out a proper DSB. <Ah,
good> I have two CoraLife 96 watt quad fixtures set up (I
couldn't go HQI because of a 15 pound cat who has been
known to go fishing in this particular tank) and have been
testing the water with red sea test kits (yes, I know I need
something more precise- I'm not happy with their
saltwater ranges at all). As I mentioned, I
am also waiting for live rock to come in (85 pounds- one
piece for my hex (tall, skinny and about 70 pounds) and the
rest for my planned refugium. Sorry about my long winded
e-mail, I just want to make sure that all the system specs
are provided. Thanks for the help and I am
eagerly awaiting instruction. Lee <Nothing really to be
overly-concerned about here... Enjoy the process! BobF> Sand Trouble... dust, in the tank... dude! 11/30/06 Morning fishy folk... <And a good morning to you as well, David. JustinN with you this morning.> I have a newly installed 3" CaribSea Aragamax Sugar Sand sandbed in a new 200gallon setup. The package says little or no rinsing required. I put about 10lbs at a time into a bucket with some freshwater, stirred it up and then scooped off all the particles as well as the cloudy water. Then I'd repeat again until the water produced no particles, yet stayed a little cloudy. <Ok> Anyhow, I have a sump system and am using a small Fluval filter with sponge material to help clean out the water. I read in your FAQ's a few times there was the mention to NOT filter out the sand dust. In other FAQ's you providing tips on how to filter out the dust. <Simply the result of many minds working together here, difference of opinions. The finer dusts are more soluble into the water column as freely buffering the solution. Both methods will work fine, its all in your patience levels *grin*> It's been about 10 days and I can JUST now see through to the other side of the tank. I imagine that the majority of the results are from filtration, and partly due to some of the dust settling. <Likely a balance of both here> At this point, all I have is the sand, the salted water running through my sump/pump, and a small Fluval helping to clear it up. I think if I put in my liverock to aquascape it will cloud up again because of the disturbed sand. I'm wondering if I should stir up the top layer of my sand to cloud the water a bit in hopes of the filter cleaning it up a bit more for me and getting rid of the settled dust? <Mmm, too likely to 'make things worse' here> Or if I should just proceed and likely let the water cloud up again when I place my cured liverock? <Bingo> The water is milky, not gritty... my pre-rinsing seems to have taken any fine particles. One of the first critters I wanted to introduce is a Snowflake eel and I'd imagine that it'd stir up the sand a little. I guess I'm afraid of it stirring up the sand frequently throughout the day and me not being able to view the tank for a week or so after the fact. <Of little concern here, once all settles> Of note, I am currently using that tiny Fluval which is rated for tanks up to 40gallons... again, it's only being used to clean up the dust (it's the filter I use on my quarantine tank). I wonder if it'd be worth while for me to dish out the $150 for a filter that could handle up to about 200 gallons? <Mmm, I would not, with your existing sump. Canister filters can become nitrate factories very quickly.> With an eel, a lionfish, and other critters, I'll have messy eaters... The bigger filter would allow me to better handle carbon, etc... if needed in the future? I see also on your FAQ's the mention of using DE Filtration? It seems uneconomical to purchase a DE filter from a pool company just to clear a tank and none of my retailers have or rent out filters. <There are specialty filters for aquarium use that will do exactly this, I believe they are known as diatom filters.> In short, once my tank clears should I be fine just placing my liverock and living with a bit or a lot of dust until it eventually all filters out over a month or so? Or, do you think I should make the purchase of a larger filter? Any harm in a lot of dust with critters in the water... i.e. them stirring up the sand to create the dust? I've noticed the dust is like a minor smog in my aquarium room... you can't see it, but you can smell it. My external pump also has a fine light white colored dusting on it. <I would simply add the rock here, and stay the course. All will settle with time. Do be sure to blast any sediment accumulation on your rock away after all clears up.> Oh, going off on a tangent here. I was at my retailers two weeks ago. At the time, a guy was trying to sell back a Zebra Moray of substantial girth (it must have been a few years old?). I was quite curious as I've been interested in either a snowflake or a zebra... so I watched the retailer staff member place it in an empty tank (which had no cover on it). The eel swam at the surface for about 30 seconds before it started to jump/spill out over the top where this staff member goes to grab it with his bare hand behind it's head to push him back. The eel clamped onto the underside of this guys wrist to create quite a bit of a mess of this guy. <Ouch! That's one mistake you don't make too many times...> In short, even with just the molar crushing teeth... seems like these guys can still deliver a pretty nasty bite. <Indeed> I'm building my chain mail glove as we speak... hehehe. Dave <Hehe, even with chain mail, it would likely still 'hurt like the dickens!" I would stay the course with your tank as you are currently going, add your rock when you feel comfortable, and don't sweat the sediment settling. It will eventually clear, no matter how cloudy it seems. As a tip, when I've filled tanks after adding oolitic sand, I simply use a trash bag to cover the surface of the sand, held in place by a dinner plate. I add the water to the surface of the dinner plate, and when done, remove all from the tank. I still get a bit of kick-up, but using this method I was able to add about 30 pounds of sand to my 40 gallon tank without rinsing, and the water was clear within a day! Hope this helps you! -JustinN> New sand settlement in a 180
11/24/06 I have a quick question that I hope you can
answer. < Will surely do my best! > I started my new 180-gallon
tank and put CaribSea Alive Bahamas Oolitic and now the sediment is in
the water. < You can rinse this stuff for days and still end up with
cloudy water. > How long does it normally take this to settle out of
the tank? I have the wet/dry, Tunze 6060, and all of power heads
working. I have two bags of Chem-Pure, PURA pad, 200lbs of live rock
and some filter floss in the sump. How long do you thing this will take
to clear? < It will take a few days to clear, and plan on cloudy
days every time your stir the sandbed up for a while. Change mechanical
filtration daily as well as cleaning everything else until it clears
up. Your skimmer will probably need a thorough cleaning once the silt
has settled. > I have the fish in a 20-gallon tank and
they seem fine, but I know this is excessively close of quarters for
the fish and would like to put them in as soon as possible. < You
didn't mention what fish are in the 20 so it may or may not be an
issue. In any case you can add the fish as soon as you can see from one
end to the other in the 180. Crystal clear would be best, but not a
must. > Thank you for your guidance and assistance on this project.
< You're most welcome and hope you and your tanks prosper. --
Emerson > Scot Rinsing Sand/Eliminating a Back-Siphon -- 11/21/06 I was reading your FAQ's and have a question from one of your responses to the FAQ. <<Okey-dokey>> I forget the article subject header/date etc... but don't think it is needed. The gist of it was adding new sand to a new aquarium and the crew's recommendation to not filter or rinse because the dust in the water is beneficial to a new setup. <<Ah yes, when using aragonite sand the 'fines' as they are called are readily soluble/contribute readily to the mineral content of the water...though can be a real mess/pain to clean off equipment. But 'rinsing' the sand is no fun either>> Currently, I have my new tank circulating saltwater at the appropriate salinity and temperature and I am using a sump. My sump is empty. In short, it's simply water circulating over my new 2" fine aragonite sand bed. <<Ok>> Although the sand has pretty much settled I still have a cloudy mess. <<Been there...>> Am I correct in saying that I should simply let it run for four or five days as is... before adding my cured live rock? <<I would...only to prevent settling/covering up of any emergent life on the rock>> I will be using live rock in my sump as filter media...shall I leave this out as well for the 4 or 5 days??? <<Might as well, yes>> Second question: I'm super paranoid about overflowing a tank or my sump in my 200-gallon tank and 55-gallon sump. <<As you should be...but this is easily taken care of by assuring water/drain levels are set to allow the sump to hold all transient flow when the power is off>> So, to be safe I do test runs and what do ya know...I have a system that cannot overflow. <<Excellent>> So, I put together a manifold for water coming into my tank from the sump with 'hang-down' type 90 degree elbows to give me 4 mini-powerhead like nozzles. <<cool>> They hang down about 4" below the manifold and about 3" below my overflow box...see where this is headed???? <<Mmm, yes...the manifold is draining too much water for the sump to hold>> So after a 24-hr no-leak test run...I shut my pump off to mix my salt....and the phone rings. <<Uh-oh>> I'm upstairs for about an hour on the phone to come back down to my aquarium room/sump flood! <<Indeed>> Obviously, the pump back-siphons the water to the level of the manifold nozzles 3" below my overflow box. <<Indeed>> After wet-vac' ing up the water I realize that this is what has happened. I figure it would only back-siphon to the first nozzle exposed to air...nope...it back-siphons water to the lowest nozzle that is fully submerged. <<Curious...I too would have thought once any nozzle was exposed the siphon would be broken>> Although I am fully aware of this now... I'm sure there is a simple fix to correct this from happening unexpectedly but not quite sure what it is. Obviously I could use a shallower nozzle that when running, would just barely hit the water surface so when the pump turned off it wouldn't back-siphon much at all, but this wouldn't give me the flexibility of range in my water flow. <<Understood...but this may be your best/only option>> Any suggestions? <<Can you get/fit a larger sump to hold the extra volume? Can you set the 'running' water level in the existing sump lower/low enough to handle the extra volume?>> What about drilling a small hole in the top of the manifold and using a very small hose shoved down inside while keeping the other end of the hose up and out of the water? <<Might be worth a try; just be sure to have the hose inside the pipe pointed 'downstream' to keep from jetting water all over the room>> Would this keep air in the water supply manifold that prevents all back-siphoning? <<Maybe...but you might find you have to do this at each nozzle>> I just don't want water shooting outta this small hose while the pump is on. <<Indeed>> Any advice? <<Before trying the hose idea, I would try drilling a small (1/8') hole just above each nozzle opening about a half-inch below the water-line (where the water-line is when the tank/everything is 'running'). This should break the siphon when the water-level falls and should have little effect on the operation/efficacy of the manifold. But, if you do this, do make checking/clearing these holes part of your regular maintenance routine>> Regards, Dave Brynlund <<Cheers, Eric Russell>> Vacuuming Substrate, Algae,
Dead Fish, LFS Water Testing - 05/30/06 Hi crew,
<<Hello!>> Ok, I have read all the vacuuming FAQ's and
still have no definitive answer to the question of whether I should be
vacuuming the substrate in my 46 gallon reef tank. <<My
preference is to NOT vacuum the substrate in reef setups...many
beneficial organisms will be destroyed/removed. If your
substrate is of a fine material and you have good strong flow it should
be of little concern as detritus should stay in suspension long enough
to either be eaten, or removed by your filtration system>> It is
brownish on top and I have a sand sifter goby that works his buns off
(although he does dump his sifted sand on my live rock mostly, I hate
that), also various crabs and snails. <<I know what you mean
about the goby "crop dusting" your rock/corals...is typical
of many of the "Sleeper" variety (Valenciennea
sp.). I can suggest you try a Dragon goby (Amblygobius
phalaena). In my experience these gobies will usually not
sift/dig so deep as the sleeper gobies, and tend to stay lower/closer
to the substrate while sifting meaning less "fallout" on your
rock/corals>> I don't know what kind of snails but I am
pretty sure they aren't Astreas since I couldn't find any to
buy. I also have a considerable amount of "Green
Algae" that I think is hair algae. <<Hmm...do you filter all
your top-off/salt make up water?>> I have a good skimmer that
works well, my water parameters are as follows: Salinity
1.021 to 1.023, <<I would raise this to NSW levels of
1.025/1.026>> Temp 79-80, Ammonia-0, Ph 8.2, Calcium 470,
<<You're flirting with the upper limits here...I would let
this fall to about 400ppm>> Alk 3.5, Nitrite and Nitrate-0,
Phosphate reads 0 but I wonder if the algae isn't taking it up so
it doesn't show on the test. <<A
possibility. Perhaps you can add some Poly-Filter to your
filter flow path?>>>> My normal water change regimen
consists of 5% twice a week and I only use RO/DI from the LFS for top
off and prepared salt water from the LFS for changes. <<Mmm, a
couple thoughts here. Change your regimen to one 10% change
per week, or even a 20% water change every two weeks...more effective
than the tiny frequent changes in my opinion. Also, test the
water (both fresh and salt) you are getting from the
LFS. I'm not suggesting they are doing anything wrong,
but YOU need to be confident this water is not causing you any
problems>> My bio-load is small just the goby, a
lawn-mower blenny (that isn't mowing much), a shrimp and a
frogspawn coral. I had other fish but over the past three
months they have all died mysterious deaths but that is another email I
guess. <<This would seem to indicate more than just an algae
problem>> In case you are interested they were two clowns (died
at different times), a royal Gramma, a yellow tang and a six lined
wrasse, all died about a week to two weeks apart. No clue
from the two LFS (they also tested my water several times and always
pronounced it wonderful) I use on why because my water parameters are
stable at what you see above except the alk gets a little low from time
to time. <<Still, all those fish dying means something was/is
poisoning your system. The low alkalinity is likely due to
the extremely high calcium...the two are generally considered mutually
exclusive, I'm surprised neither LFS has said anything to you
regarding this. Please do some reading here and among the
indices in blue at the top of the page: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/alkalinity.htm >>
The two clowns looked a little like they had developed HLLE but were
eating Mysis shrimp and Cyclop-eeze with garlic drops and Selcon almost
up until the end. The others looked perfectly healthy, just
slowly got listless and died, no spots, etc. If you do have
any ideas I would be interested to know them. <<As stated, it
sounds like some environmental/poisoning event...might even be the fish
were "damaged" when you acquired them...do you employ any
chemical filtration (carbon/Poly-Filter)?>> So I am waiting a few
weeks to try to add more victims and in the meantime am trying to take
this time to get the tank and rocks as pristine as I can. So
I think I am doing everything right except I don't vacuum the
gravel because my LFS has told me not to. <<I am inclined to
agree>> He says the goby should do the job. He
apparently needs help. <<Perhaps the substrate is too
"course" for the goby>> Should I be vacuuming the
gravel or not. <<If this is a shallow substrate (less than an
inch) of course material then yes, you can go ahead a lightly vacuum
during water changes...if this is a fine substrate, if you have a DSB,
then no, I wouldn't vacuum, it is not necessary in the first
instance, and is not desirable in the second>> Thanks for your
help then, now and in the future. Debi <<Debi, all things
considered, I strongly recommend you get some test kits of your own and
test the water you use from the LFS...if for nothing else but your own
peace of mind. Regards, EricR>> Sand
Beds/Maintenance 6/9/06 Hello, I currently have a 90
gallon FOWLR tank. The current inhabitants are 2 yellowtail
damsels, 2 clowns, a hippo tang, a royal Gramma, a skunk cleaner shrimp
and an assortment of crabs and snails. All live in relative
harmony. I recently wanted to add a good sand sifter
because, even though my Nassarius snails were doing a good job, I
wanted something to more actively clean the surface of the
sand. I went out a purchased a diamond goby. God
bless the little guy because from the moment I put him in the tank he
went right to work. The problem I have is the tank is a
little cloudy now because he is always at it. Will the
constant cloudy water have any ill affect on the rest of the
inhabitants in my tank? <Could very well, if the sand bed is
stagnant, that is, not enough critters to keep it stirred
up. If that's the case, the goby may/will cause hydrogen
sulphide gas to be released into the tank. And this, is not
good. Is a good practice to vacuum the sand bed during water
changes to prevent this and improve water quality.> And of course
thanks in advance and for the great site. <You're
welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Thanks Craig Dirty Sand
6/5/06 I have a brown red film that will go away at night and comes
in about 2 hrs after the lights come on. What would be causing this? Is
it the lighting I am using. I have a power compact 260 watt with 2
actinic blue and 2 12k lights? <Most likely Cyanobacteria, a
photosynthetic bacteria. Can indicate a nitrate or phosphate
problem. Also common in new tanks and will often cycle out
after a while with no action needed.> <Chris> Maintenance/Substrate Cleaning 7/18/06
Your site is great & have used it for about 8 months now, learning
so much. Thank you. <You're welcome.> Have done
searches & FAQ's, but have these Q's: 1) When I vacuum
<vacuum> my substrate (Caribbean product, I believe aragonite?),
I think I may be sucking out too much of the substrate
itself. How much, if any, of the substrate should actually
be removed from the tank when siphon cleaning? <Very little, if
any.> I started with about a 2" deep bed 5 months ago and am
now down to about 1/4". <Ah, a substrate guzzling tank.> 2)
I have not been regularly rinsing & reinserting the sand I've
removed (too lazy after cleaning red slime off of live rock),
<Can't be lazy in this hobby.> so now I have a bunch of sand
that has been sitting in a bucket for weeks/months. I want
to put that back in the tank (slowly, parts at a time) but think I
should probably clean it since it's not completely
dry. What is best way ? Should I use a
bleach/water combo, rinse , and then let it dry in the sun ?
<I'd put the substrate in a five gallon pail and just keep
rinsing with water, no bleach or other chemicals. Fill the
pail with about two inches of substrate at a time, much easier,
quicker. I like doing this outside with a
hose. Shouldn't say "I like", rather,
"doing this outside".> Thanks, <You're
welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Paul |
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