FAQs about True Puffer
Behavior
Related Articles:
Puffers in General,
Puffer Care and Information, A
Saltwater Puffer Primer: Big Pufferfish! by Mike Maddox, True
Puffers, Freshwater Puffers,
Burrfishes/Porcupinefishes,
Tobies/Sharpnose Puffers,
Boxfishes, Puffer Care and Information by John
(Magnus) Champlin, Things That My Puffers
Have Told Me by Justin Petrey,
Related FAQs: True
Puffers 1, True Puffers 2,
True Puffers 3, Tetraodont Identification, Tetraodont Compatibility, Tetraodont Selection, Tetraodont Systems, Tetraodont Feeding, Tetraodont Disease, Tetraodont Reproduction, Puffers in General, Puffer
Selection, Puffer Behavior,
Puffer
Systems, Puffer
Feeding, Puffer
Disease, Puffer
Dentistry, Puffer
Reproduction, Freshwater Puffers,
Burrfishes/Porcupinefishes,
Tobies/Sharpnose Puffers,
Boxfishes
|
Puffer behavior
is directly related to their environment and tankmates
|
Puffer Exhibiting New Worrisome Habits
7/1/14
Hello and thanks for your wonderful advise and all the help you provide
for so many aquarist!
<Ah, welcome>
I have a 120 Gallon FOWLR system (60x18x25) running a Wet dry
filter. I perform weekly 25g Water changes, Nitrates - between 20-40,
salinity -1.023. PH - 8.1 - 8.2. Temp - 76. ammonia/nitrite - 0
<Nitrates a bit high, but... okay!>
Bioload is 9" Reticulated Puffer,
<Will get MUCH larger...>
4" Niger Trigger
<And this>
, (2) Reef Chromis, Skunk Cleaner Shrimp, (2) Peppermint Shrimp, lots of
assorted snails and hermit crabs.
<These crustaceans and snails will be consumed by the first two fishes>
I recently (1 week ago) changed the overflow from a 1" drain to one with
(2) 1" drains so I can have one connect to 20g refugium before draining
into the return sump chamber.
<Good move>
Since this change our puffer habitually starts swimming about 30 minutes
after the lights go out. he does this for the duration of the
night(roughly 11 hours), and does not show any signs of awareness if we
attempt to distract or communicate with him. He typically begs for our
attention at every opportunity, and never turns down a meal, however
during these trance like swim sessions he acts as if we aren't even
there. During this time he occasionally makes large splashes in the tank
while swimming over the higher rocks in the system.
<Mmm; natural (not anomalous) behavior... sort of like other "higher
animals" in zoos pacing. Coating one end of the system (outside) with
paint, paper... to reduce internal reflection; may help abate this>
Additionally he was eating fine, but 2 days ago he accidently
bit the Niger trigger fish during feeding.
<Not really accidental... another note re the need for planning, getting
a larger system>
The Niger literally swam in front of his food as he was biting it. The
Niger seems okay, but the puffer immediately became, for lack of a
better description, sad. He did not eat any more that night and his
colors darkened and he became lethargic.
<Happens>
Since then he is not eating as much or as happily as usual and when he
does eat, it seems like he spits it out and then sucks it back in,
sometimes several times before fully swallowing it.
Other than these two major changes in personality/habit he appears to be
healthy. His colors change from dark to light based on his
mood/activities
<Again... natural; to be expected>
and there is no noticeable marks or damage to his skin. His sporadic
swimming appears to slow if we turn the TV or a light on, but he
continues the swimming at a decelerated rate.
Other fish in system act good, except that the Niger is a bit more
cautious when eating. Please help me understand what the problem is and
how I can help alleviate his stress.
Thanks,
MikeC
<The coating/covering of one side; searching out a bigger world...
otherwise patience. Bob Fenner>
Re: Puffer Exhibiting New Worrisome Habits
Thanks for the quick reply, and also thanks for the skimmer
recommendation a few weeks ago, it is working out great!
<Ah good>
I will put the background on one side and the back of the tank
immediately.
The shrimp/fish have been getting along amazingly.
<And will do so... up to and until the latter all disappear>
The puffer is the definition of gentle giant. We have videos of the
cleaner shrimp literally riding the puffer during feeding time. He does
love biting snails though. The Niger actually lives/sleeps in a cave
with the two peppermint shrimp and shows incredible protective behavior
over them.
<These animals can/do get along in the wild... and oftentimes in
captivity...>
All of the fish go to the skunk for cleaning but he usually only offers
his service to the puffer, even going inside his mouth to clean. The
niger is the only thing that messes with the crabs so far and only by
removing them from his cave. It really is an amazing thing to watch all
the different types of life interacting with each other.
<Ahh!>
It really gives a feel of respect that I never would have guessed
possible with the types of fish and their natural tendencies. The skunk
cleaner actually seems to harass the puffer at times. The puffer is so
careful what he bites when being fed as to not nip my fingers. It really
was a fluke that the niger decided to swim in his mouth at the worst
time.
My current plan is to upgrade the niger and puffer to my 180g currently
occupied by my 7" clown trigger.
<Yes... moving the Clown out I hope/trust to elsewhere>
He is by himself but will need a larger tank in the future as well.
Hopefully I can get a year or two out of the current systems before that
becomes necessary. I don't dare put any fish with the clown trigger as
he has a very typical temperament for his species towards other
fish/crabs/PVC/rocks/glass.
<Oh yes>
My nano reef is very excited for the upgrade from biocube to 120g system
unless I use the tank as sump for the 300g clown trigger display.
<Nice!>
Just wanted to share my plans and thoughts. The hobby is so engaging in
so many ways and your assistance is so helpful and extremely
appreciated!
Thanks again for all the help,
MikeC
<Thank you for sharing. BobF>
Re: Puffer Exhibiting New Worrisome Habits
8/5/14
Hello Again,
<Mike>
There are some new developments with the puffer. The background stopped
him from swimming along the back, but now he swims along the
front and really doesn't watch where he is going.
<Still seeing its reflection likely... Need to cover one end of
the tank to eliminate internal light bounce>
Yesterday he developed a red sore below his lower lip, I put a small led
fixture over the tank last night which helped prevent him from swimming
as aggressively against the glass, but he still swam the entire night,
and has done so for over a month now. If I turn off all the lights he
swims extremely fast horizontally back and forth. The nitrates
are hovering just under 30 ppm.
<Do you need help using the indices, search tool re Nitrate control
input on WWM?>
I changed 60 gallons in 20 gallon intervals last weekend and plan on
doing 60 more today and again tomorrow. Is there anything else I could
do to discourage this and help heal the sore? Attached is a picture of
him and the sore.
<The paper or other cover as mentioned... likely the addition of a or a
few "dither fish">
The AquaC 180 skimmer is working well and the 20g diy refugium I made is
growing Caulerpa nicely.
Thanks,
Mike Cail
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
|
|
Dog face puffer, beh. 5/29/13
Hello ladies and gentlemen, I have been looking all over your site for
an answer, I'm sure it's there but I can't seem to find it.
Anywho, I recently bought a dogface puffer he's about 2-3 inches in
length
<Wow, small>
he's still a little guy, and he was doing fantastic for the first 3 weeks,
but now he seems to be stressed he's turning a very dark shade of brown.
<Happens>
My water parameters ammonia 0 nitrite 0 nitrate 20 I had to bring it down
yesterday with a small WC about 10 gallons of a 125 gallon tank...tank
mates are 2 yellow bell damsels I think that's what they are called
they're damsels none the less and 2 ocellaris clown fish all juveniles.
The other day I added 2 live rocks in the area the puffer stays most the
day, could that be what's stressing him?!?
<Not likely the rocks; these are probably psychologically helpful. Could
be "just a phase"... the damsels may be intimidating...>
He eats fine and lightens while he eats he goes back to the gray color
but after he changes right back to brown. I'm going to do a larger
water change and this evening, and I'm trying to catch the damsels to
relocate but they are a pain and hide in my LR and I got a bunch of LR!!
Is there anything else that may be stressing the little guy out?
<His reflection in the side of the tank. Try taping a piece of paper
over one end>
I can't seem to figure out the problem here! Thanks in advance I love
the site, first place I go if I have an Inquiry!
<Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Re: Dog face puffer, beh. 5/29/13
Thanks for the reply! That would have been my next guess, as he is
constantly biting at his reflection in the glass,
<Ahh!>
I didn't know if it was
normal puffer behavior as I only see him doing this when I feed him! One
other thing, he seemingly will only eat mussels
<See WWM re Tetraodont foods/feeding/nutrition... you don't want the
troubles such a restricted diet will impose>
I tried to feed him crab and clams as well as shrimp and he eats only a
couple bites and leaves it alone for my hermits to take care of.
Is there anyway to entice him to something other than mussels,
<... See WWM... the FAQs... BobF>
I do soak all the food I give to my fish in Kent garlic extreme, and a
vitamin booster called Acurel but it still
doesn't seem to work!
Strange Coloration on Betta's Tail
5/30/13
Hello,
<Tayelor>
I just set up my tank last week, so it had to go through a fish in
cycle.
<Too new to stock>
However, I used Stability by Seachem for the seven days that it requires
to help the process along and gain all of the necessary bacteria. Also,
I use Prime when I do my water changes. during this process I've done
almost daily water changes, usually 25-35%. I did one 75% when I
switched from gravel to sand. In my tank I have live plants as well as
plastic. In my tank there are 4 Albino Cory Catfish, 1 MM Platy, and 1
male Betta. I am writing this message because The tip of my Betta's tail
has a waxy look to it. At first I was worried it might be the beginning
stages of Fin Melt.
He has one tear in his tail fin from snagging on an ornament about 5
days ago, however I haven't seen any signs of white lining his fins
except in one spot on a front fin that is just some fin growing back in.
He is eating normally and doesn't show typical signs of stress like
clamp fin. However, the reason I even notices his tail's waxy look and
slightly darker coloration is due to his sudden change in behavior. He
has gotten to where he almost constantly swims back and forth along the
back wall of glass along the length of the aquarium, which is 10 gal.
<Likely reacting to its (internal, you can't see it) reflection>
He has no signs of nipping and none of the other fish bother him. I
thought my filter may be too strong but the current is fairly light. I
also thought that maybe it was the light that was bothering him since I
has a fluorescent bulb. I only have one bulb in so that one side of the
tank is slightly darker. I have floating plants and places for him to
hide.
<Good>
I don't understand why he is pacing or why the tip of his tail fin has
that waxy look to it.
<Not to worry re this last... happens; will repair itself>
Since I noticed the change, I did a 30% water change and started treating
with aquarium salt,
<... the Corydoras don't "like" added salts; stop>
no other medicines have been applied because I don't want to treat for
the wrong thing.
<Ah good>
Since the salt was added there was slight improvement, but the pacing is
still almost constant.
<Try taping a piece of paper over one side (outside) the tank... the
side receiving the most ambient light is best>
Temp is usually a constant 79 or 80, it only changes slightly when I do my
water changes since room temp is cooler than my tank temp. I always
treat my water and let it sit before adding to the water. My PH is in
the 7s and my GH and KH are both 6. Please help me figure out what is
wrong with my Betta before it progresses, especially if it does turn out
to be Fin Melt.
Thank you,
Tayelor
<Patience and the paper, tape here. Bob Fenner>
The Deep Sea Mystery Circle – a love story, SW puffer beh.
9/20/12
> Hi Bob,
<Neale>
> Did you see this? Never seen nest-building behaviour like this for a
fish. Definitely trumps Cichlidae equivalents!
<Have seen this... posted quite a bit on FB even!>
>
http://www.spoon-tamago.com/2012/09/18/deep-sea-mystery-circle-love-story/
> Cheers, Neale
<Thank you. Will share/post on WWM. BobF>
golden puffer, colour changing
8/23/12
I purchased a golden puffer which is 8".
<Yikes... some troubles to be expected starting w/ such a large
specimen...>
When I first got it was all golden with a few black spots. I really
didn't notice the top of the fish began to spot up. It now looks like
the fish is turning back to a guinea fowl.
<Oh, does happen at times>
The tail, fins, and top part is now brown with white spots. I have looked
all over the Internet and I cannot find anything which describes them
changing back.
<Have experienced this a few times; second-hand... And of course, seen
the gamut of xanthic et al. "crosses" in the wild>
My tank 180 gallons and mainly eats mussels.
<Need to expand this diet... See WWM re Tetraodont
foods/feeding/nutrition>
But he will also eat new life spectrum along with sea weed.
<Ah, good>
Just would like to know why this would happen. Thanks for your time.
Mike
<Just... genetic disposition, environmental, nutritional influences. Bob
Fenner>
Dogface Puffer's Unusual Behavior
2/20/12
Good Afternoon, Wet Web Crew!
I have found your site to be absolutely invaluable during my venture
into Marine Aquaria, so thank you for all your hard work! That being
said, I will apologize for the length of my email but I do want to make
sure I give you as much detail as possible for conclusion-forming
purposes.
<Take your time>
I would like to pick your brains a little about the curious behavior of
one Dogface Puffer I have been observing at the LFS. His coloring is
rich gray with a nice copper mask on his face, and his body is pleasant
and rounded, with nice clear fins. His teeth are the appropriate
length, not too long at all, so upon visual inspection, he appears
quite healthy.
He eats well and enthusiastically, and responds immediately to activity
around his tank with eye contact and subsequent movement. Fantastic,
right?
So here's the kicker. For the last two months, since he arrived at
the shop, when he is not eating or moving toward the feeder looking for
food, he lays at the bottom of the tank, in t0he corner, curled
up in a little ball.
<Not uncommon for captive specimens; even wild ones sit about quite
a bit>
He is never trolling the tank or exploring, and when he eats, he sinks
like a rock to the bottom of the tank again, back to his little
"nest", where he stays until the next feeding.
After swimming to get food, he seems utterly exhausted and quite
over-exerted, as if it is all he can do to propel himself to eat. He
pants like a overheated dog for about a half hour until he settles down
again, and then the breathing goes back to his normal slow, regular
pace he keeps when he's laying down.
After inquiry into this behavior, and being told that he is just
"lazy" by staff members at the lfs, as he appears to have no
other patent defect, I surmised that perhaps the copper in the Marine
Main system at the shop may be causing him some sort of distress.
<Could be>
By this logic, I decided that he might in fact improve in a less toxic
environment, and decided to bring him home to my aquarium. (This may or
may not have been the best idea, but the road to hell is paved with
good intentions, I hear.)
<Am given to understand this is often the case>
After quarantine, an 8 minute Methylene blue and Ich-x freshwater dip
and acclimation I added him to my 55 Gal FOWLR display tank (which is
in it's last weeks of being the FOWLR tank as I have just happily
ordered a 180 gallon to move these guys to), where current parameters
indicate Ammonia and Nitrite levels at 0 ppm and salinity at 1.021. I
am happy to say he ate readily upon addition to the tank, and seems not
to be bothered by his tank mates (a 3 inch Huma Huma trigger, a 3 inch
Niger Trigger, and a 3 inch Lunare Wrasse). However, aside from
swimming to get food, the sinking and moping behavior has
continued.
What do you make of all this?
<Could be borne of the copper exposure as you speculate... I also
suspect that this fish has not gotten much social interaction, exercise
from the same. Cut back on the feeding (like by half) and see if this
fish becomes more active.>
Thank you so much for your time and all your hard work!
Christin
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Re: Dogface Puffer's Unusual Behavior
2/21/12
Thank you so much, I will follow your advice! By the way, I am reading
your book currently and I absolutely love it, I feel I am growing and
learning daily from it. Thank you again, Mr. Fenner!
<Thanks and welcome again Christin. BobF>
Help. Dogface puffer swimming
issue/s... 7/4/11
Hello, I've read through a lot of questions trying to find a
similar
issue, but can't seem to find one. I have a 60g
FOWLR with a 4" dogface puffer,
<This is way too small a volume for this fish>
3 damsels, and a clam. I've had the puffer for about 3
years.
<"Dwarfed", "Bonsai'd"... made and kept
small here from metabolic feedback (living in its own wastes so to
speak). Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/GrwLmtChems.htm
Just recently (about 2 weeks) he has been acting differently. On a side
note, me and my wife just had a baby (2 months old), so for a bit some
of the care I put on the tank was slipping. I checked my levels a week
ago and found my pH was low, about 7.6-7.8.
<Whoa! This scale is base 10 (log)...>
I did a 20% change and added the pH buffer
<Needs to be done very gradually... from pre-mixed new saltwater
additions, NOT added directly to the tank>
for 2 days after that and the levels went back to 8.2 - 8.3 within 2-3
days. Ammonia was 0, Nitrite was 0, and Nitrate was about 20. So back
to my puffer, he seems to be swimming a little lopsided and recently
was even upside down.
<Very bad>
He can't swim and stay up anymore either, he is always cruising the
bottom of the tank and when he does force himself to swim up, he
immediately drops down to the bottom. He used to always hover around
the middle or close to the top swimming back and forth, now he just
swims circle around the bottom. He still eats, but only if I physically
put the food in front of his face with tongs. Before he used to come
get anything I put in the tank. I feel him a variety of squid,
silversides, krill, and clam.
<Not a good diet... read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_6/volume_6_1/thiaminase.htm
and here: http://wetwebmedia.com/trupuffdgfaqs.htm
I mix it up. I went to the LF store and asked what to do. The owner
said I should QT the puffer for 3-4 days and gave me EM Erythromycin
and Triple Sulfa,
<? Of no use here whatsoever>
which I medicated him with for 4 days. I just put him back in the
regular tank and he is swimming around a lot more, but still looks the
same, not able to go to the top. Anything you can tell me would help.
Thank you.
<Only time and your good care will show/prove if this fish will
revive...
It needs to be in a larger world, less vacillation in water quality and
better nutrition. Bob Fenner>
re: Help. Dogface puffer swimming issue
7/4.5/11
Hi Bob,
<Hey Tim>
Thanks for the reply. After reading your reply, I guess I haven't
been treating my puffer well and I didn't even know it. I am going
to do my best to make things right for my puffer.
<Ah good>
I have a 150g tank in my garage I have been building a stand for. I am
almost finished and will set that up ASAP to give him a bigger home. As
far as filtration, I have a Fluval FX5 I will use along with a Fluval
304.
I read I should be shooting for about 10 time water volume per hour
with a puffer, so I'll do the math and add another canister if
needed. I also have and will be using a skimmer.
<Very good>
As far as the pH, I did add the buffer to new water I had made, not
directly in the tank and am maintaining the levels were they are now.
Ph 8.2-8.3, Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 20.
After reading your response about his diet, I was shocked. I had never
heard of Thiaminase and everything I always bought for him to eat was
frozen and what I listed before, which apparently was all Thiaminase
based food. My LF store had always told me it was a good diet for
him.
<As you'll see/find, this practice is responsible for many
indirect shortened lives>
I will go buy some vitamins to soak him food in, as well as change his
diet to Tilapia (fresh from the food store, I'll freeze it as
needed and soak it in vitamins, mussels (maybe a few times a week), and
cockles. Once a week I will give him a silverside or some clam since he
does like them, but again I'll soak them in vitamins.
<Ahh!>
Do you think this might get him better,
<I do>
any other suggestions as far as anything else I might be able to
do?
<Mmm, no. The move to the new, larger quarters, more steady water
quality, improved nutrition will likely bring your Tetraodont
around>
Thanks for the information, I will keep you posted on my
progress...
Tim-
<Thank you. BobF>
Light Sensitivity, Tetraodont beh. --
1/27/10
Crew,
<Adam>
I have searched the site but have not found anything directly related
to my question. I have a 155 gal fish only saltwater tank. Temp is 81.
All readings are 0 except nitrates which are 10-15ppm. Specific gravity
is 1.021.
<Mmm, a bit low... there is still a bit of controversy re FO systems
being kept at lower than NSW (Natural Seawater) strength/density...
I'd bump this up a bit... Do you want the ref. to Spg matters on
WWM?>
Basic florescent lighting. Inhabitants includes a dogface puffer, lunar
wrasse, maroon clown, hippo tang, Huma Huma trigger and a few
damsels.
The dogface puffer acts normally i.e. active, begging for food,
bottomless stomach, etc. except when the florescent lights are turned
on. Immediately after the lights go on the puffer has a direct stress
response i.e. becomes distressed, goes into hiding, changes color and
doesn't come out for food.
This happens as long as the lights are on but immediately after the
lights are turned off he resumes "normal" behavior. This
started about 2+ months ago and looks as if it will continue.
<Perhaps so>
Could this be due to harassment by a tankmate?
<Is a possibility... may be the Trigger, Premnas or
Thalassoma>
If so I have not seen any aggressive behavior or signs of any physical
damage.
<Sometimes this behavior is so subtle it's not obvious to
observers... "Watch the eyes"...>
It seems as if there is more to it than this but would a T5 lighting
system replicating dawn to dusk help this issue?
<Not likely, no>
During the white light cycle I would think he would continue the stress
response.
Thanks in advance for your help and for the time that goes into running
this very informative site.
--
Adam
<Thank you for being part of it. Bob Fenner>
Re: Light Sensitivity -- 1/27/10
Bob,
<Adam>
Thanks for the fast response. I have found a lot regarding Spg on WWM.
I will raise Spg per your suggestion. If anyone is the cause of
aggression in the tank I would guess it is the Wrasse but I will keep a
closer eye on this. If the puffer continues this behavior I will plan
on finding him a new home.
<A good idea>
Thanks again,
-- Adam
<Welcome. BobF>
Dogface Puffer, beh.
1/18/10
Hello Again:
<Zak>
I tried searching throughout the site and the Internet, but haven't
found an answer. So hopefully you guys will help me out!
I've had my dogface puffer for about 4 months now in my 75 gallon
tank. He is roughly 7 inches right now.
<Needs more room than this>
I noticed today, that he is barely swimming around. He is just sulking
at the bottom of the tank with his tail curled in. All of my water
levels are within perfect range. He is eating normally, but this is a
very unusual behavior for him. He is usually swimming around the tank
happily and excited. His gills are also sucked in. When I try to reach
in, he
immediately gets up and swims around, but only for a couple minutes,
before he settles back down on the sand bed. He looks completely
normal, (other than the fact that his fins are sucked in), but is
breathing awfully heavy.
Might be a weird question, but is the puffer just simply depressed? Or
could he possibly be sick?
~Zak~
<Maybe and maybe... Most likely guess is it has ingested something
(snail, rock...) that is not agreeing with it... Might have been
imported with some sort of latent internal trouble (all gone over on
WWM); or "just be bummed
out" as you suggest. The last happens at times with Tetraodonts
(and Diodontids)... and passes with time generally. Bob Fenner>
Dogface Puffer
I'm sorry, but I should have added this. His eyes also appear to be
a little bit sunken in. I'm really scared for this guy!
<Mmm, do you have another system to move this fish to? There are
prophylactic treatments with Anthelminthics, the anti-protozoal
Metronidazole (again, gone over on WWM... read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/trupufdisfaqs.htm
and the linked files above. BobF>
Mappa Puffer... color loss... hlth., beh.
6/18/09
hey WetWeb crew,
<Hi Josh. Please, next time around, could you use the Shift key now
and again? It's pretty tiresome reading messages without capital
letters, even if it's easy for you to type them out that
way.>
i recently purchased a mappa puffer that i had had my eye on for a
while.
when i bought it it had beautiful yellow designs with black and white
but about two weeks after i bought it its color significantly
dulled.
<You do realise this is one heck of a puffer once it matures? Wild
fish are recorded at lengths of 65 cm, or 25 inches, and that puts them
firmly in the "tank buster" category. It isn't a very
sociable species either, and
usually ends up being kept alone. Personally, I'd not consider them
particularly good specimens for home aquaria, even allowing for the
fact they're unlikely to get this size under home aquarium
conditions.>
Now the color is more of a brown and grey and if i look very closely i
can see hints of yellow. i was wondering if this is something i should
be concerned about. also i noticed little white dots on its skin and
thought immediately that it could be ick.
<Arothron mappa certainly does have white spots on its body, and the
ground colour does change as the fish matures, and to some degree with
mood as well. Fishbase is often a good place to see some photos of wild
fish at different ages, so perhaps stop by there now:
http://www.fishbase.org/Photos/ThumbnailsSummary.php?ID=7857
>
i gave it a freshwater bath but the white dots remain. on a side note
my mappa is housed with a particularly lethargic stars and stripes
puffer who is known to wedge itself in between things and just sit
there.
<In the US at least, the Stars-and-Stripes Puffer is usually
Arothron hispidus, a species noted for being rather placid but
generally quite active. Some would say "friendly", and
it's one of those species that
quickly becomes tame and often mooches about at the top of the tank,
begging for food. I'm concerned that your specimen is subdued for a
reason, perhaps bullying, or else something "isn't right"
about it's habitat: lack of water current, not enough space, water
chemistry/quality issues, monotonous diet... whatever. Review, and act
accordingly.>
they are both in a 55 gallon tank and i know this is too small a tank
size but they are both tiny right now and i plan on putting them in a
larger tank once they get bigger.
<You will need a very large tank for these two species to coexist,
and there's a chance they won't coexist, the Arothron mappa
being notably less tolerant of tankmates than Arothron
hispidus.>
any help would be greatly appreciated,<Mike Maddox recently penned a
great primer on Arothron pufferfish for Conscientious Aquarist, and
I'd recommend having a read of that before you
do anything else.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_6/volume_6_2/puffers.htm
>
-Josh
<Good luck, Neale.>
Dogface Puffers, beh. 10/23/08 I
just received a small dogface puffer. He is about 2-3 inches long.
Although he is eating he is dark in color. Should I be concerned that
he is stressed out, or is it normal for the Juveniles to be dark? Other
then his color he seems fine, he is swimming around a lot and exploring
all the rock in the tank. Thanks Erin <Arothron spp. do, like most
puffers, adjust their colours depending on mood. They frequently turn
dark when stressed. Assuming water quality is good and that your fish
shows no physical signs of damage or ill health, I wouldn't be
particularly worried. Arothron hispidus is an extremely robust species
(I bought one sold as a freshwater fish!) that generally adapts very
well to aquarium life. Don't worry too much about feeding just yet,
and if you can, leave the lights out or at least turned low. This will
help him settle in. By tomorrow he should be fine, and ready for a
tasty breakfast of unshelled shrimp, mussel meat or whatever. Cheers,
Neale.> Cool Thanks :) Erin <Happy to help. Neale.>
Black Spotted puffer colors... nutr. and incomp. with
a balistid -- 10/28/07 Hi WWM crew! I've got a bit of a
silly question! I have a black spotted puffer (Arothron nigropunctatus)
that is normally beige with brown around his mouth, but I've
noticed that occasionally it turns completely brown. <Yes... a
general mood change rather than otherwise environmentally or
nutritionally mediated> In fact, I had a Black Finned trigger
(Melichthys indicus) in the tank that also used to change from black to
light green regularly also. <These too... and both are likely
related> It (how do you sex these fish?) <As far as I'm
aware, neither species can be sexed externally> died without warning
one night - was eating regularly, water conditions were good. I've
been feeding them uncooked shrimp & scallops that I buy in the
grocery store. <Need more than this...> My question is: What do
these color changes indicate? Are they upset? Hungry? Are they just
showing off? <More upset likely... perhaps with each other. These
species need a very good size space to co-habit happily. Hundreds of
gallons.> Thanks! Anthony <Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Re: Sargassum trigger comp.; Dog face puffer size
follow up -- 07/30/07 Marco, <Thomas> Fabulous stuff, thank
you very much. Arothron nigropunctatus, in the puffer ID section of
WWM, is identical to my puffer. He may be closer to 5",
realistically, but has been this length for years now. <Interesting.
Stunting and improper diet can probably be excluded due to the large
tank you have and the food you offer. I also assume/hope the nitrates
are permanently low given the other sensitive fishes. Aside tank size,
diet and water quality I cannot think of a factor, which might stop the
grow of your specimen. Possibly some issues in its early life before
you bought him.> This is the one that bit my finger! Often times
when I feed my shark at night, I have to scoop him out of the way. As
long as he doesn't think my finger is food, he is docile, likes
being rubbed, and eats out of my hand. About 6 months ago I had
purchased a tiny Picasso trigger, and the INSTANT I placed him in the
tank he attacked the puffer, so he was removed and returned
immediately. <Another case of unpredictability. Some Rhinecanthus
are quite docile, this specimen not. A similar case cannot be excluded
with the Sargassum, but hopefully this time you are more lucky. I guess
it will rather be hiding for a while when introduced and not start
attacking.> He does receive a varied diet, of cocktail shrimp with
Zoë, marine cuisine, krill, and angel formula. He also eats
his share of shark formula, unfortunately. <OK, good diet. The dog
face puffers I know/knew personally which have grown from 4 inches to
almost 1 foot in captivity ate lots of mussels and clams, because they
seemed to like it and it abraded their teeth. Could be worth a try in
case you haven't tested yet.> He just has remained this size. I
have no idea why. For a while he was in an 80 gallon before the
upgrade, but for most of the time he was pretty much the only occupant.
Anyway, thanks for the info. We won't be adding the Sargassum
trigger for a couple of weeks, while we observe the system to make sure
all of the ick was killed with the quinine. Thanks again! Thomas.
<You are welcome. Keep up the good work and enjoy. Marco.>
Sick Puffer or just odd
behavior? 1/28/07 Hello Crew, <Lisa> Sorry to
bother you with yet another Puffer question. My Stars
and Stripes about 3 1/2 inches) is doing this odd thing......He
will start at the top of the water and dive (or "swoop")
down to the bottom, rubbing his belly on the crushed coral
below. I have even seen him do it a few times on the
live rock. Does he have a skin condition or something
internal that is disturbing him? <Mmm, not likely> Or is he
acting out with some kind of discontentment related to his tank
situation? <Possibly... but more likely this fish is reacting to
its own reflection...> His appetite is great (in fact, I had to
separate him from the others because he was eating ALL of my
crustaceans and was about to go after my beloved cleaner shrimp,
who he had, for several weeks, seemed to have some affection for
(allowing them to massage his back and even taking afternoon naps
with them - please excuse the run-on sentence!) I also
found out that he was nibbling (but not ingesting) my LTA which
never recovered and died a horrible, messy death. <These animals
are incompatible> I was told that he would not get any larger
than 8 inches (like the dog-face), and then learned that this is
not so. True? <This is not so...> I am considering
adopting him out to somebody with a bigger tank who can give him
the life he deserves, but want to make sure he is totally healthy
first. <Good> Thanks for all your help and support. Lisa
Crugnola <Mmm, try taping a piece of paper or such to the
outside panel where this behavior is occurring... Bob
Fenner> |
Cleaner Damselfish 2/22/07
Hello Bob and Crew, <Hi, Pufferpunk grabbed this one from the
Inbox.> I have written in before about my Stars and Stripes
Puffer, "Blinky" and his odd behavior of suddenly and
quickly diving down and scraping his belly on live rock and coral
gravel. Bob suggested that he might be reacting to his
own reflection, although I pretty much ruled that out after hours
of observing him (mostly because he will be positioned at one end
of the tank and starring down the full length of the 48 inches of
tank with rock, and other decorations blocking his
view. He also positions his body vertically, looking
straight down at the gravel, hovering for several seconds before he
takes his dive). <Goofy, puffer-antics... or an itch
caused by parasites.> Additionally, his appetite and every other
part of him remains normal. Anyway, he was doing it so
much (several times trying to jump out of the tank and violently
hitting the glass top) that it became disturbing to
witness. I actually had to leave the room. I
thought I had a suicidal Puffer on my hands. <Many a
puffer has been known to go carpet-surfing.> However, refusing
to give up I tried putting several small fish (Damsels) on his side
of the partition. <Partition? How large
is this tank? Your S&S puffer will grow quite large,
requiring at least a 180g tank. See: http://www.thepufferforum.com/forum/ug.php/v/PufferPedia/Marine/A_Hispidus/
> The reason for this? The first several weeks I had
him, he was enjoying the general population and full run of the
tank (pre-eating and killing my LTA) <Most puffers are NOT reef
safe.> and he never engaged in this odd "diving"
behavior. I thought, "Is it possible that he is
lonely?" To make a long story a tad less long; I
put the two fish on Blinky's side of the tank and it seemed to
have a calming effect on him almost immediately. At that
time I also realized that the Puffer was looking a bit
"raggedy" from repeatedly scraping his delicate
underbelly on the jagged rock and gravel. There were no
actual lesions or anything resembling an open wound,
though. If I had to describe it I would liken it to a
close shave (human) resulting in some flaky skin. Blinky
literally had flaky pieces hanging from his chin (mostly) and some
from his belly. <More proof of parasites
IMO. Their skin is not delicate, actually the
opposite. More like prickly leather.> I was
recommended by my LFS to put a cleaner shrimp in with him to
attempt a cleaning (before the poor invert was gobbled up as
thanks; not a consideration). But then several days ago
I noticed the small Humbug damsel was gently taking small, swift
nibbles at Blinky's underside. In fact, every piece
of flaky skin was gone and the Puffer was looking clean as a
whistle. He was even hovering, completely motionless,
seemingly enjoying the service AND the attention. This
service/relationship continues almost a week
later. Although occasionally one little nip may seem a
bit too hard for the Puffer and he will wince a bit and shake his
head back and forth like a Ferret. I don't think it
is an aggressive act, nor do I believe that either fish believes
that it is aggressive (the Puffer has never tucked is tail into his
body as he does when upset or intimidated during any of
this). But I have read about Puffers having skin and not
scales and that their skin is sensitive. FINALLY - MY
QUESTIONS.....Is the current Puffer/Damsel relationship worth the
risks? Is it a true symbiosis or freak of
nature? I have heard of cleaner shrimp, but don't
have any knowledge of cleaner Damsel fish. Is it unusual
for a Damsel to engage in this type of behavior? So,
what are your thoughts on this odd relationship? Should
I separate the two or give it some time? <Very common for a
smaller fish to become the cleaner of a larger fish. One
of my favorite places to hang out in the ocean on a dive, is the
cleaner station. Sounds like the puffer & the
damselfish know their place & the puffer will let it stay that
way... for now... you can never trust a puffer! Check
out www.thepufferforum.com, for more info on your
puffer. ~PP> Thanks for enduring my long tale!
P.S. Bob - enjoying your book immensely! <<Ah,
good. RMF>> |
Dog Face Puffer... beh., fdg., dis.
8/12/06 Hello - I have a 7 year old Dog Face Puffer
(Rover). About a week ago he became bloated and would not
eat. This has happened one other time (about two months ago)
and he seemed to work himself through it. I'm guessing
he was constipated. This time, after a few days of his being
bloated, I called the vet to come and check him out. He was
scheduled to come out the next afternoon. I had to call and
ask him to come earlier because he had built up so much air that it was
blocking a small piece of one of his eyes. He also is generally
lethargic. <Periodic, common behavior in Tetraodonts>
He rests against different items in the aquarium as well as
on the bottom. If I open the lid, he will start swimming
around. The vet came out, trimmed his teeth (they were very long and
Rover had no interest in snails or live rock) and squeezed his
midsection to help encourage him to go to the bathroom. <Good
techniques> I need to mention that I have noticed in the
past weeks that when he does go to the bathroom, it is whole pieces of
krill. While Rover is not as puffy now, he is still puffy
and still has no desire to eat. <Give this fish time>
I have tested the water and the readings are as
follows: PH - 8.6; NO2 < 0.3 mg/l; and NH3/NH4 - 0 mg.
None of the other fish (Tang, Clown Fish, Trigger and Damsels) seem to
be having any issues. Because my vet is not an expert, he
has a call into a doctor in one of the Carolina's. That
doctor is out of town and will not be back until the
08/15. His associate has not returned his call and my vet
will be out of town for two weeks starting Monday. I am at a
loss and I hate seeing him miserable. I would appreciate any
input and/or suggestions. Kristine <Best to try to be patient here.
Puffers are tough... and yours will likely be fine in time. Bob
Fenner>
Guinea Fowl puffer color morph? 4/8/06
Greetings WWM crew, <Carla> Thanks for such a great informative
site, I've been using the site since I started saltwater and it has
helped me tremendously. There has, however, been one
question which I could not find an answer to- after three weeks of
searching WWM and the web I give up. There is this Guinea
Fowl puffer being sold, he has been there for about 6 weeks; the puffer
eats everything that is dropped in the tank- shrimp, brine, and the mix
they feed all the other fish. Needless to say I really want to purchase
this guy. The person who cares for the fish says that he
will eventually turn yellow is this true? <Mmm, no, not likely>
Do Guinea Fowl puffers morph in to yellow puffers? Thanks in
advance for you response and guidance. Thanks <There are a few
species of Arothron puffers that "come" in a variety of
shades, xanthic varieties... even "koi" multiply blotched...
but they rarely change from being all black to grey with white spots,
to golden/yellowish background... Genetic/fixed, rather than
developmentally/environmentally influenced. Bob Fenner>
Dogface puffer 9/7/05 Hi found your site today!!! Love
it!!! We have a 75 gallon tank with two lions, a dog face puffer, and a
wolf eel which was previously a reef tank and still have live rocks in
tank. We have a trickle filter and protein skimmer. Is there any
additional filtration that would cut down on the time between water
changes. <Mmm, yes... most any additional filtration, of all modes
would help here... but... what you really need is a much larger volume
system> Also, we've heard of double osmosis systems that we
could use to make our own salt water at home. Is this necessary or is
there any easier way, like store bought water that could be used with
our oceanic sea salt mix? <There are a few inputs, things to say...
please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/seawater.htm and the linked files
above where you lead yourself> What is the typical size
for a dog face in captivity and will our tank be large enough for our
current stock? <Mmm, likely six to eight inches... more than a foot
in the wild, in large systems in captivity. It will be much better off
in a bigger (twice plus the 75) system> I read about
people hand feeding their puffers. Are they actually
reaching into the tank? <Sometimes yes... take care... sharp
teeth... and your lions...> Our puffer is very friendly and we have
touched him but I don't want to stress him or do anything wrong but
of course I want to maximize my relationship with our
fish. The last thing is our eel and puffer rub on each other
a lot. They both seem to enjoy it but should we be concerned about an
aggression problem that we are not recognizing. <Mmm, more likely
friendly than agonistic. No worries. Cheers, Bob Fenner> Fugu
questions 8/18/05 <Hi there! Heather
(LinearChaos) here> At my LFS there are 4 3" Takifugu
rubripes. They are in horrible condition. Instead
of being green with neon orange they are silver and a dingy brick red.
<The Takifugu rubripes is not a puffer that is sold in the trade,
this is actually a species that is eaten as a delicacy in
Japan. The puffer you are describing is the Takifugu
ocellatus.> They are also ungodly cheap ($15 a
piece). <Wow! That is cheap!> I was
wondering for now would a 30 gallon tank be big enough for
now. I have no problem upgrading later. I have no
experience with these guys. <No, this species is
extremely aggressive toward their own and 4 in a 30g won't last but
a week. They'll nip each other to death almost
immediately since they will not be able to get away from each other in
that size tank and cannot establish territories.> I am
aware of how hard they are to keep in captivity. Also there
is very little information on these puffers. Do you know
what salinity, hardness, temperature, etc... they
prefer. Any help would be great. <I have
successfully kept 3 of these puffers in an established full marine
environment for over a year, the salinity is 1.019 and the temp is
82*F. The tank is 55g and is heavily stocked with live rock
to break up the lines of sight as much as possible to reduce
aggression. Please, if you are unable to care for these
puffers appropriately do not purchase them. ~Heather>
Logan
Pufferfish, Huffing and Puffing Hey Bob, thanks for the
advise on my parasite problem, but I have one more question. I have a
stars and stripes puffer. When I first got him he would blow up every
so often when I would get up on the tank to look at him. But now, about
2 months later, he is fine. Now he will go to the top of the aquarium
waiting to get fed. <A very common, and endearing-puffer
behaviour!> My water tests fine except for some copper left in the
tank. <Please do try using PolyFilter media in your system,
they really work well at removing copper from your system, and change
color to let you know that they are working. It's really not in the
best interest of your fish in the long term to have copper lingering in
your tank.> Just the other day I saw him puff up more than I ever
thought he could for know reason. I was wandering if they do that every
so often to stretch or something. Just a little worried, thank
you....Steve <Puffers do inflate themselves to different degrees in
response to situations where they feel threatened. Perhaps he was
startled, maybe he was agitated by a tank mate-hard to say. As long as
he is able to deflate, and continues to eat well, I don't think
there is any cause for alarm. Scott F.>
Dog Days... Hi WWW
Crew....Bob...Anthony...Steve.... or hmmmm .... <Scott F.
here tonight!> Leslie here again. This time with a Dogface Puffer
dilemma. I have done my homework. I read through everything on
wetwebmedia re: marine puffers as well as anything else I could find
elsewhere....which is not much :(. I still have a few questions and I
am concerned about this new beauty. He is still small 4", white
with yellow fins, a yellow mask, and beautiful yellow eyes. <They
are adorable fish!> I got him 6 days ago. He had been in the LFS 3
days when I first saw him. He looked fine with the exception of being a
bit thin. He was active but calm, with no outward visible signs of
disease. His coloration bright and clear with bright alert eyes. They
said he had not eaten. I asked them to try.....well low and behold he
nibbled at some frozen ocean plankton. I watched for a while and he
continued to nibble. I took this as a good sign although he didn't
eat with the gusto of others I have seen. I went back the next day and
he again nibbled even a bit more. I knew it was a sign and
he wanted to come home with me ;-/. Maybe a bad decision, but none the
less I brought him home. I just could not leave him there.
<That's a familiar feeling for a lot of us! Good that you asked
to see him eat something> He is in a 25g Q tank in a quiet room.
<Great procedure> The first day he puffed up every time I came
into the room.....freaked me out......I am sure he was as
well! He spent most of his time "pacing" up and
down in the back corner of the tank for the first day. I kept the
lights dim. He got progressively calmer over the first 2 days, but was
not eating. By the third day he was calm, alternating
between swimming normally and resting, had stopped puffing up and began
nibbling on his food. Today is day 6 he seems "excited" when
I come into the room now or place food in the tank, but he is still
only nibbling at Mysis out of the water column or krill suspended from
a piece of cotton thread.. He does not appear to have lost any more
weight. I have tried....cockle, krill, shrimp, and a mussel.
He seems to like Mysis the best. <Then I'd push the Mysis at
this point. A varied diet is important, but if he's a bit tentative
in the feeding dept., I'd make sure that he eats as much as
possible. Try enriching with vitamin preparations or Selcon.> I
guess I assumed once he calmed down and started nibbling he would just
start eating. Is my impatience showing here or am I appropriately
concerned at this point? <Well, it's always cause for concern
when a fish does not eat, so certainly not an over-reaction on your
part.> I have no experience with puffers on hunger strikes. My other
guy always ate with great gusto. OK so here are my questions..... Would
you consider this nibbling as interest in food and a good sign or is he
still possibly doomed to starve himself to death? Do you have any idea,
in your collective experience, how long it might take him to really
chow down? <Unfortunately, it's impossible to generalize and
create a timetable for when a fish will start eating. There are
numerous factors which influence a fish's appetite, particularly
when you take into account what he's been through lately: the
rigors of capture, shipping, handling, etc. Sometimes, it simply takes
time for a fish to "settle in" and be comfortable enough to
start feeding, sometimes other factors are involved (illness, injury,
water parameters, etc.> >How long can he survive nibbling on
Mysis, before I need to worry and/or panic, as I am already concerned?
Most of my Marine experience has been keeping seahorses and their
tankmates, as I am sure you are well aware seahorses do not fare well
in the face of poor appetites and hunger strikes for very long at all.
Even though I know this is a different fish with a more developed GI
system, my experience has me perhaps viewing this thru a
tainted screen. <Your experience is a great ally for you in this! As
you know, it's a good sign even if he nibbles on food- a fish that
eats is in an infinitely better state than one who doesn't. And
these puffers do need to eat quite a bit, so don't give up.>
When he is swimming towards the surface and oriented in the water nose
up, his belly sags anterior to his anal fin. Just for a visual......it
looks as if he swallowed a marble or is VERY constipated. Is
this normal in a thin puffer? <I would keep an eye on him...Hard to
say if this is abnormal from here.> The skin of his belly is also
very wrinkled. Is it possibly due to the frequency of puffing during
the first 2 days? Here is a link to photos of the sweet boy.......so
you have an idea about how thin he is, can see his wrinkled belly and
the "mass" above his anal fin...... > http://community.webshots.com/album/54332564yqDMXK
On day 4 several Ich spots appeared on his pectoral fins. They looked a
bit better the next day and again today. They are however not yet gone.
I really want to avoid the stress associated with a FW dip, for fear of
a set back in the hunger strike department, since he is not thrilled
about eating yet. So, am I OK to just watch these spots and leave him
as long as they do not get worse? <I usually recommend immediate
action in treating ich. Given his possibly weakened condition, keep a
close eye on this condition. If it progresses or continues, do begin
treatment.> >What temp and specific gravity would you recommend
for this fish in a Q tank to treat Ich, should I need to? Do you think
I should start that now, to avoid a full blown infestation or wait a
bit? Do you ever use this prophylactically in Q tanks? <I personally
use a "normal" specific gravity in quarantine, or during
disease treatment, but it is a common and perfectly acceptable practice
to employ lower specific gravities during these periods> I have a
friend in the seahorse community who is well respected, as well as
published many times over the years. He is an uses a rather
unconventional and perhaps controversial treatment called OST or
Osmotic Shock Therapy, to treat parasite/protozoan infestations. The
abbreviated version of the instructions
are......to place the fish into water with a
specific gravity of 1.010 to 1.011 immediately following a FW dip. The
fish is maintained at this specific gravity for a period of 4 weeks at
which time the water is slowly returned to normal marine salinity. Are
you familiar with this treatment? <As indicated above,
"hyposalinity therapy" has been used successfully by many
hobbyists, wholesalers, etc.> Would you be interested in the rest of
the information I have about it.....maybe not to use necessarily, but
just for informational purposes? There have apparently been some 3 year
studies done with very good results. I would be interested in your
thoughts about it. <Certainly a practice that has worked
for many people. I have always favored copper sulphate, but, as you
pointed out, this treatment can be successful!> Thanks for your
time, dedication and help as always!! Leslie <Leslie, I'm sure
that you will succeed in getting your puffer to eat and in licking this
ich infection. Be diligent and patient, and don't give up. Consider
using the old standby of vitamin preparations to stimulate his
appetite, feed carefully, and feel free to contact us again if we can
be of assistance!>
Skittish Puffer! (7/3/03) I recently purchased a
porcupine puffer, and he seems to be very skittish. He tends to hang
out around the back of the tank and when I am in the room, he will keep
one eye on me, and swim slowly up and down the length of the tank.
He hardly eats when I am in the room but when I come back the brine
shrimp, mussels or krill that I leave for him is gone. (I doubt that my
only other fish, a domino damsel is eating it all.) His appetite is
very healthy, and in general he seems to be very healthy. He has been
in my tank for about 2 weeks and I wanted to know is this common with
newly introduced puffers? Is there anything I can do to make him
less skittish? <Just give him time and substitute something like
Mysis for the brine as the brine has very little nutritional
value. Cody> Thanks. Kevin
Arothron stellatus, operant conditioning To Bob, I have just
got an Arothron stellatus puffer and he is not as tame as I would like.
I was just wondering what the best way of taming him is. Regards,
Daniel Holbrooke <A whip and a chair? Actually, only time,
conditioning in captivity will prove whether this individual will
"calm down" or no... if it takes to eating, beating up other
livestock, remove and quarantine it in a much smaller system for a few
to several days... this often "knocks them down a peg or
two". Bob Fenner>
Blackspotted puffer (Arothron nigropunctatus) Good evening, I
have two questions about this fish: 1). Can he live happily on a diet
that consists of uncooked prawns/shrimps+nori, both soaked in
Zoë and Zoecon overnight? He does not accept ANYTHING
else.... <I would either look about, try other foods... or learn to
"stuff" the prawns with other meaty foods... Not good for any
animal to have such a restricted diet> 2) Is it at all possible that
the Blackspotted might be sexually harassing my spiny puffer (Diodon
holocanthus)? <Not likely sexual, but harassment just the
same, yes> They are the same size... I know it sounds weird, but the
Blackspotted gets on top of the Spiny when the lights go out, and they
swim up and down the tank as if they were mating. Sometimes during this
adventure Spiny gets inflated into a ball (sign of threat that he tries
to protect himself from, I guess). Any advice will be appreciated.
<Enjoy them! Really, nothing too strange going on here... the group
of fishes that includes the Puffers (the Tetraodontiformes,
encompassing the Triggerfishes...) are "smart", social
animals in many ways... These two are just friends. Bob Fenner>
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