FAQs on Fairy, Velvet Wrasses, Genus
Cirrhilabrus Feeding
Related Articles: Fairy
Wrasses,
Related FAQs: Velvet Wrasses
1, Velvet Wrasses
2, Velvet Wrasses 3,
Velvet Wrasse Identification,
Velvet Wrasse Behavior,
Velvet Wrasse Compatibility,
Velvet Wrasse Selection,
Velvet Wrasse Systems, Velvet Wrasse Disease, Wrasses, Wrasse Selection, Wrasse Behavior, Wrasse Compatibility, Wrasse Feeding, Wrasse Diseases,
|
|
red head solon fairy wrasse not eating
2/19/14
<... in with other Cirrhilabrus?>
I have a red head solon fairy wrasse who is not eating. He is
getting very thin.
<Bad>
Yesterday, I found him stuck to the side of my Vortech pump
unable to free himself from the current of water being pulled into the
pump.
<...>
I freed him from the pump and he he seems ok just weak and thin.
He seems to eat, but very little. He ate very little when he was in a 20
gallon qt tank as well. Now in my display he is still eating very little
and is in competition with all the other fish in the display, 93 gallon
cube.
His tank mates are: Yellow Tang, Sailfin Tang, 2 small clownfish, 3
Bartlett Anthias, a McCosker's flasher wrasse, spot line flasher wrasse.
<May be that this Velvet has an internal/lumenal-parasite issue... Did
you prophylactically treat it while in quarantine?>
The red head solon fairy wrasse is the only fish who seems to go
without eating. The solon wrasse is not as aggressive going after
the food as the other fish. Any suggestions as to keeping
him alive?
<Yes... search, read on WWM re>
Is it possible may have internal parasites?
<As stated; yes>
If it is internal parasites, are my other fish in danger?
<Possibly>
My other fish are fat and eat well, the McCosker's flasher wrasse I got
at the same time as the solon fairy wrasse has increased in size 50%
from when I got the fish. I do have spectrum Thera a that all the
fish will eat but not as readily as Mysis.
<Won't cure parasitic issues>
I do have a pod population that is increasing recently, in this tank which
is newer and bare bottom.
<... Bob Fenner>
Some questions, Cirrhilabrus nutr., Aquaculture of marine
ornamentals practices 1/13/10
Greetings,
<Salutem dicit (L. "I say a greeting")>
Can fairy wrasses gorge themselves to death?
<Mmm, maybe>
They don't seem to ever stop eating, which makes it harder to feed
the other fish. Is Cyclop Eeze a nutritionally complete food, i.e. can
Anthias survive on it long term if it's the only thing they are
willing to eat?
<Is pretty close I believe>
My guess would be not what with all the different critters that compose
zooplankton.
<Depends more on what this one organism has been eating...>
I've read that in some Asian countries, farmers sometimes
aquaculture marine fish like snappers by digging a large pond and
inoculating it with phytoplankton and then zooplankton and let the
critters multiply before finally adding the eggs.
<Is/was an approach of old for some species>
If such a simple method could work, why isn't it used for marine
ornamentals?
<Lack of economies of scale mostly (insufficient demand for large
numbers of specimens). Though, more intensive (greater control)
methodology is required for most ornamentals>
People seem to be obsessed with being able to culture animals in the
smallest volume of water possible.
<Mebbe>
meow says the catfish
<Woof says the dogfish. Aka, Bob Fenner in the HHH>
C. pylei, Looking for More Information... beh., fdg.
mostly 08/28/08 Hello crew, <Lisa> After
digging through what I could find on your page (which is by far one
of the best sources available), and others, about the Cirrhilabrus
pylei, I purchased a male that has done quite well so far, though I
know only two months is nothing special with many fish. Over those
two months, I have seen some conflicting information come up from
fellow reefers on public forums and I'd like to see if you all
know anything more about the particular species than what is
available on your site and on fishbase.org. <Ok> I have three
questions and the first is if there is any information as to
whether or not the fish fades without a female present. <Does,
will> I can easily support the addition of a female, finding one
just seems to be quite difficult. <Mmm, yes... though the
"initial phase" (am sure you're aware that Labrids
are protogynic, synchronous hermaphrodites) are far more numerous
in the wild than terminal/males, because they're not as pretty,
large... they don't sell much, aren't collected much...>
I am also assuming that, should the addition of a female be a good
idea or necessary, that the location the female is from
wouldn't matter. <Correct> The second question is where
this particular color morph is from. Part of my identification
issue may also stem from the difference of flash vs. no flash on
the photo, and the other lighting conditions involved in the
pictures I've found. <You are wise here> The Cirrhilabrus
article wasn't very clear as to the origin of the fishes in the
pictures, so I have included a picture of mine, also to be
referenced with the third question. <Mmm, not able to tell...
some of my pix (and most all on WWM are mine) are above water
(aquarium), specimens of unknown locality> The last question has
to do with feeding. When I got him, he was decidedly fat, but in
comparing pictures overtime, it does seem that he is very slowly
thinning from about the midpoint of the body, back. <Very, too
common..> I currently feed mysis mix with Cyclopeeze every other
day. All of my water parameters are ideal: amm, nitrites, nitrates,
and phosphates are all zero, ph of 8.4, and temp ranges between 79
and 81. For Alk, my test gives a buffering capacity, which it tests
out to 300 ppm, and the test says that that's fine. The only
thing that I have seen "bullying" him are the neon gobies
that he does not like when they try to clean him. He shows no
outward signs of illness. Should I feed more often or try a
pelleted food, or is it possible that there is some other issue I
may be overlooking? Or am I just a worrying parent? <Is a food,
availability issue likely... A very good idea to feed small amounts
more frequently AND add a DSB of size somewhere, perhaps a
vigorous, large refugium to supply more food organisms on a
continuous basis> Thanks and I look forward to hearing from you
soon, Lisa <Welcome. Bob Fenner> |
|
Re: C. Pylei, Looking for More
Information 08/28/08 Bob, <Lisa> Thank you for
the speedy response. I will have to start pestering my LFS about
getting a female or two in. <Two or even three...> I have not
seen the wrasse picking at the rocks at all (am assuming you were
thinking about 'pods as a food supply), <One of a few
sources...> so I will have to increase the amount I feed the
tank. I do have an attached refugium, but as I have no active
pod-eaters, I have not bothered trying to harvest them for the main
tank, so I will try that as well. <Good, though, they should
"wash over" through the pumping mechanism, or overflow...
depending on the plumbing/tanks arrangement.> Thanks again, Lisa
<Welcome. BobF> |
Finicky Fairy Wrasse - 10/09/06 Hey guys, despite much
research I can't seem to find an answer I'm looking
for. I have been in the marine hobby for years, but have had
no experience with fairy wrasses. <<Beautiful fish>>
Looking for something new, I recently acquired a Solar (redheaded)
fairy wrasse. <<Neat!>> He has been in QT for a week now,
and I am having trouble getting the little bugger to eat.
<<Mmm...not all that unusual with these fishes>> I knew
they were tricky to commence feeding, but I have successfully fed fussy
eaters in the past. <<I see>> I have offered frozen Mysis
shrimp, Marine Cuisine, and Spirulina enriched brine shrimp (Selcon
added). He'll eat 2-3 brines, but everything and
anything else he'll suck in and spit out. <<Naturally...goes
for the least nutritious of the lot>> Unfortunately I live in a
small town without a place to purchase live foods. <<Hopefully
this won't be necessary>> Any thought on enticing him to
feed? <<The fact the fish will eat some of the brine shrimp is
encouraging at least. Were this my fish, I would obtain/try
some Cyclops-eeze and Sweetwater Zooplankton...as well as a fave of
mine for enticing finicky feeders...frozen glass worms (mosquito
larvae)>> Also, I have a hollow plastic rock in the QT tank to
hide in. He hides in it all day, making it difficult to
feed, and to observe for disease. I thought the decor would
offer security and ease stress, but in this case, is it being more
counterproductive than helpful? Just looking for a second
opinion. <<Mmm, is "necessary" I feel...especially with
this shy species/genus. But, a short piece of PVC pipe may
prove more useful re observing the fish than the
"rock">> Thanks guys. Sincerely, Tom <<Give the
other foods a try...if the fish continues to not feed you might want to
consider curtailing its QT and moving to the display where it may feel
more "comfortable", thus improving its
appetite. Regards, EricR>>
Quick Info on my new wrasse
7/22/06 Hello Crew, < Howdy! > I've been
reading your website thoroughly as I have purchased a Yellow-fin Fairy
Wrasse last Sunday. It's a male and he is eating heartily and
hanging out in my 10 gallon QT. He's starting to finally explore
the tank and come out of his corner hiding place up near the powerhead.
< It is great to hear someone actually using a quarantine! That is
the most widely talked about, yet least practiced of everything in our
hobby! > Is this type of wrasse generally a hearty wrasse species?
< They are typically hearty, once they start feeding. > What are
some specific nutritious frozen foods that you recommend to keep him
healthy? < Mysis shrimp, Prime Reef, Brine Shrimp Plus as well as
pelleted foods such as New Life Spectrum work well. Cyclop-eeze is
readily accepted by my new-comers. Best wishes, RichardB > Thank you
for your assistance.
Fairy Wrasse... feeding,
compatibility 5/14/06 Hello, <Hi there>
First of all, I
would like to thank you for all of your support over the
years. I would also like to ask a question, I have recently
run into the problem of newly acclimated fish, fairy wrasses in my
case, being scared away from food by competition. In my case
the competition is a powder blue tang, sailfin tang, and a juvenile
Chrysurus. I just lost a gorgeous lineatus wrasse to this
unfortunately. <Happens... Cirrhilabrus are not bold competitors, as
you mention> He was around five inches long so it wasn't like he
was a baby trying to compete with the guys. Which brings me
to my question, I have heard of people using acrylic containers with
holes in them to give the new tankmates time to adjust and get used to
feeding in the tank with competition. So would you recommend
this and if so, where would I find a contraption like this. <Might
prove useful, you'd have to either fashion this/them or have an
acrylic/plastics shop do it for you. Not made commercially> But if
you do not, I would appreciate if you could instill some other sort of
information about possible techniques upon me. Thank you
very much for any help that you can give me. Regards,
Dave
<Different temperaments/compatibilities, different tanks... Bob
Fenner>
Longfin Fairy Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus rubriventralis), choked on
tako? 10/25/05 Howdy, <You as well> Love your site, good book
too. <Welcome> I had purchased 3 Longfin Fairy Wrasse
(Cirrhilabrus rubriventralis), mail order. I put them into the
quarantine, one died the next day. <This genus... and
Parachelinius, Pseudocheilinus... others... often takes a beating in
transit (they don't ship well at times)> He didn't look so
hot from the get go and was refunded. Two weeks went by with no
problems, they were eating everything, acting normally. Then today I
fed them some squid, which is nothing new, I've done it before, I
rotate through 6 or so different foods. The dominant wrasse came
up ate a few pieces as usual, then pulled a slightly larger piece,
swallowed it, spit it out, then started tearing at it like an
alligator, rolling and twisting, then started darting around, having
seizures, then began laying at the bottom, changing color like crazy,
breathing heavy, then died about 30 minutes later. Water is
great, I change it every other day, and there is nothing dangerous in
the tank. This fish did have a strange bluish colored right eye, but no
other signs of any problems ever. Any ideas? <Sounds like a bit
"got stuck" in its buccal cavity or branchiostegals (gill
arches)... trouble... I would only offer such tough food/s as small
bits. Bob Fenner>
Wrasse Food (3/23/05) I am a big fan of your website.
<Thanks, it's a pleasure to play a small part. Steve
Allen> I have a labouti, flame, and a mystery wrasse, and I
was just curious what other things I can feed them. <Lots of
stuff. Variety is important for good nutrition.> I been
feeding my wrasses, Mysis shrimp soaked in Selcon. What else do you
recommend? Scott <What you are feeding now is a great start.
Some like to soak in a quality vitamin as well. Give a variety of other
frozen foods such a squid, krill, etc. Finely chopped fresh seafood
works, too. I use a seafood gumbo mix (squid, octopus, mussels, shrimp,
fish) from Albertson's ($3 per lb). For quick convenience, quality
pellet and flake foods such as Spectrum or Formulas 1 & 2 are
great. I give them before work and then do frozen or fresh in the
evening. Hope this helps.>
Exquisite Foods For An Exquisite
Wrasse! Hello WWM, <Scott F. with you
today...> I've recently acquired a very pretty Exquisite Wrasse
but could not find much on feeding on the site or FAQ. Currently he is
getting good quality small pellet food with Selcon and frozen brine
shrimp with Spirulina. Any additions needed to keep him fat and happy?
As always thanks for your help and good humor. Peace, Joe <Well,
Joe, my recommendation here is to utilize more nutritious marine-based
foods, such as Mysis, chopped clams, or squid, which have a much higher
nutritional value than brine shrimp. Your idea of fortifying foods with
Selcon is a good one, and should be used with all frozen foods. Other
good choices would be any of the fine Ocean Nutrition foods, such as
"Prime Reef", "Brine Shrimp Plus", and-believe it
or not- "Angel Formula", which, although intended for
sponge-eating angelfishes, seems to be relished by a wide variety of
fishes. You might have to mince it up a bit, though. Bon Apetit!
Regards, Scott F>
Feeding Planktivores Thanks for your reply. I decided to go
with the Centropyge ferrugata and the Cirrhilabrus scottorum. In fact
they are in their new home. Of course the wrasse is in the back hiding.
Since I do not have an upstream refugium at this time, what would be
your suggestions on feeding my wrasse and Sunburst? <thawed frozen
mysids, Gammarus and Pacifica plankton can be the staple. Supplement
with any dry food possibly/taken. Also offer Sweetwater Plankton
(incredible jar food for Anthiines).> Doug <best regards,
Anthony>
Feeding Fresh Foods Hi Bob, I have two questions. 1. Do you
need to feed fresh seafood to your saltwater fish? <can be
very nutritious, is recommended for many fishes and corals> If so do
I just go to the local store and buy fresh shrimp, clams and squid and
put it in a blender and then freeze it? <sounds good... be
sure to freeze it as you have stated. Never feed raw fresh for risk of
disease transmission. In fact... studies have shown that previously
frozen foods have less bacteria and more nutrition because they are
frozen quickly after catch and "preserved" whereas fresh raw
foods are kept chilled only for an extended time> I assume you
wouldn't cook it because it's not cooked in the ocean and it
would be too hard to chew. <actually no cooking because it
destroys nutrients> I have the following Saltwater fish so you know
a little about what I'm trying to feed. A pair of Maroon Clownfish,
a Purple Tang and a Scott's Fairy Wrasse in my 55 gallon. In my 46
gallon I have a Coral Beauty Angel and a Foxface rabbit fish.
<you have a mixture of omnivores and herbivores> I'm
concerned about my Fairy Wrasse because I want him to have a good meat
based diet. <exactly... try Gammarus and mysids froz from the
LFS freezer too. Also, fresh (jar) Sweetwater Plankton... a find for
Anthiines> I feed Formula one and two flake and some tetra flake.
Seaweed sheets once a week and the frozen Pygmy Angel food along with
Frozen Brine Shrimp. <all fine but the brine (a hollow useless
food)... do add some higher protein crustaceans to the diet like krill,
shrimp, mysids, Pacifica plankton, etc> I'd appreciate any
advise on the fresh frozen food you can provide.............Thanks
again........Chet Get more from the Web. <best regards,
Anthony>