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3, Cnidarian Disease 4,
FAQs on Cnidarian Disease by Category:
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FAQs on Cnidarian Disease
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Related Articles:
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Water Flow, How Much is Enough,
Related FAQs: Cnidarians 1, Cnidarians 2, Cnidarian Identification, Cnidarian Behavior, Cnidarian Compatibility, Cnidarian Selection, Cnidarian Systems, Cnidarian Feeding, Cnidarian Reproduction,
Acclimating
Symbiotic Reef Invertebrates to Captive
Lighting,
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Cyano bacterium... as a poss. factor in corals doing poorly
4/29/15
Hello Crew,
Just finished reviewing the exhaustive FAQ for the day and did not see my issue
discussed. Poor coral growth. 88 gal with 25 gal refugium, tank is 28 in
tall,
<Deep....>
38 across reef tank light bank 3 T5 bulbs coral sun Actinic 420 and 3 ocean sun
10,000k.
<Do you have access to a PAR or PUR meter? Maybe check w/ your LFS, clubs
thereabouts re borrowing>
Have tried 5hrs -9 hrs of light a day. The tank is built in and is exposed on
both front and back, no direct sun but lots of
light most days. Water temp 80.4, sp generally 1.024-25, pH 8.25, KH 108, Ca 410
relatively low phosphate and nitrate. Lots of live rock, feed reef energy A&B
every other night. The problem is that every coral I put in the tank turns brown
or brownish, I like mushrooms and have purchased green, orange, blue but within
weeks they all turn brownish. Have enormous growing Frogspawn
<Ahh; this Euphyllia is one factor.... Read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/carycompfaqs.htm
but is brownish green.
Second problem, I started doing frequent water changes to control my hairy algae
and it has been very helpful, but I have developed a Cyano bacterium problem
that the local store said was due to too frequent water changes!
<Mmm; other factors really.... DO the reading re BGA, its control on WWM...
easy enough to sort out>
He recommended Red Slime away "safe for inverts, corals fish.
<Can be of use; but... the reading>
Well now I still have red slim but lost an anemone, most of my snails, crabs and
a gorgeous large Royal Gramma and a lovely Midas blue eyed blenny all of which
seemed to be doing well prior to treatment. I am approaching true frustration.
Please impart some wisdom and help correct this situation.
Dr. Bob
<Do you need help using the search tool, indices? Your
answers are all archived; well, speculations and further adventures more like.
Do the reading and write back w/ more specific concerns. Bob
Fenner>
death slime? Info.? 10/29/13
HI,
<DB>
My parameters are all in check. I've had my tank established for
almost three years with no serious issues.
All of a sudden I noticed one day a pinkish slime (NOT CAYNO) covering 1
of my Ricordeas, the next day the Ricordea was completely gone...
everything!
<... Cayno? You likely mean Cyano/bacteria... BGA>
About 2 days later I saw the slime on another Ricordea, I cleaned it
off, but the Ricordea died just like the first.
A day or 2 later, the same thing happened to my last Ricordea
<No fun>
Now I came home from work and I noticed it on half of my war coral, I
used a pipette to clean it off and the war coral is destroyed right down
to the skeleton
Any ideas of what is going on? what I can do to treat the tank ?
<... do you have access to a microscope? I'd be looking at a bit of this
material... chicken/egg sort of question here... Is there some sort of
"destroyer" at work, OR just evidence of decomposition... ONCE whatever
the cause is here killing your Cnidarians... In other words, need
information/data to help you. Bob Fenner>
Thanks in advance,
Dustin
Copper and coral
5/17/11
Hi Sara,
I'd like your input on a problem I have/had. I've had three or
four large SPS branching corals that have been thriving/growing for
over three years. A while back I bought a Raccoon Butterflyfish from my
trusted dealer. Shortly after I placed the fish in my system along with
the shipping water, the subject corals began bleaching and eventually
killing the large head and two Galaxea corals. When I bought the fish,
my friend, the owner was not present. I later come to find out that the
owner treats his entire display system (fish only of course) with
copper. My question to you is, do you believe dumping about 8 cups of
this copper treated shipping water into a 5' x 18" x 18"
(85 gallons) system could cause this. I'm thinking that in that
amount of water, any copper in the bag would be diluted to a non
dangerous level, likely just a minute trace. My dealer came over to
observe what was going on and he felt there wouldn't be enough
copper in the system to cause this. I tend to disagree with him and is
why I am asking for your input. I have no other explanation why this
could have happened other than the tainted water.
Cheers,
James (Salty)
<Aloha Games,
Good question. There's a lot of highly technical science journal
articles on the effect of copper on corals and coral spawning,
especially for Acropora species. From what I was able to gather from
just briefly reviewing several of these abstracts, copper tolerance
appears to vary among Acropora species. However, you can't help but
notice that these studies all measure copper concentrations in ug/L.
For example, one study looked at the effects of a range of copper
solutions of 2 to 20 ug/L on a few different species of Acropora
corals. I'll also note that marine invertebrates in general are
probably intolerant (to varying degrees) of any concentration of copper
higher than 10 ug/L. And I wouldn't be surprised if I found
scholarly research to suggest that the tolerance is even lower among
stony corals.
Ok, so, let's put this in perspective. I'm sure that copper
treatment solutions vary in concentration from brand to brand and in
application to application. Also, there's probably some relevance
to particular type of copper solution used (i.e. is the solution made
with copper sulfate or chelated copper? -- at marine aquarium
alkalinity, chelated copper is less toxic to fish, but I'm not sure
if it's less toxic to marine invertebrates). So we don't really
know how much copper the store owner put in his system, what type of
solution he used, or what dosage, etc. But let's just say, for
arguments sake, that he brought the copper levels in his system to 0.25
ppm using copper sulfate solution (I believe this is considered, at
least by some, to be the "target dose" for therapeutic use).
As an aside, I'll note that CopperSafe instructs to maintain levels
at 1.5 to 2.0 ppm with their chelated copper, which they seem to
suggest is as safe as 0.3 ppm using copper sulfate solution. In any
event, for all crude purposes, 1 ppm converts to 1000 ug/L, and thus
0.25 ppm converts to 250 ug/L (way too high for any marine
invertebrate). However, your system is 85g and 8 cups is only half a
gallon. Thus, your system would have diluted the copper treated water
by a factor of roughly 170. So now we're down to a copper
concentration of about 1.47ug/L (assuming yours started at 0). Would
that be a concentration high enough to harm your corals? I don't
know, but I would guess not (or at least, not to the extent you
saw).
However, I'm sure it's possible that the store owner over dosed
his system. Or maybe my calculations are wrong. Or, maybe your copper
levels were already elevated, or perhaps your corals are just
particularly sensitive. Who knows?
I do strongly suggest you read this nice article by aquaculture teacher
and veterinarian, Roy Yanong;
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/fa165
Cheers,
Sara
>James, Sara, am going to post this to WWM if you have no
objections. A couple of brief stmt.s/addenda: Some (very small) amount
of copper (cupric ion, otherwise) is essential to coral metabolism (and
most other life). The amount "brought in" w/ James' BF
should be exceedingly little here. Strange to me, there are movements
afoot (at the state Senate level here in CA) to do away w/ copper as an
anti-fouling paint component... Save the... what? Ourselves AND the
planet! Cheers, BobF<
Re: Copper and coral
The amount "brought in" w/ James' BF should be
exceedingly little here.
<Agreed... perhaps I took too long to explain why. :-P
-Sara M.>
<Likely that bill-able hours thing! B>
Re: Copper and coral
Hi Bob,
<James>
I do not have a problem with you posting this. Awful upset about losing
that large colony along with the Galaxea corals. I have two branching
corals of another species and these were not affected at all. I might
add that all my Shrooms wilted up to less than the size of a penny.
They are still bright in color, not dead yet. I ran both a Poly Filter
and Chemipure simultaneously after the event occurred although the
Chemipure was always in the system. Sure beats the hell out of me,
nothing added, nothing changed, no change of salt, parameters stable,
SOP the same.
James
<Not the copper... B>
Re: Copper and coral 5/17/11
Haha, more likely just the habit of answering questions with long
answers... :-/
<Ahh, this too. B>
Question about coral health... Beauty in the eye of
the beholder 6/7/2009
G'day crew
<G'day mate!>
Well it's been awhile since my last query, so I reckon I must be
about due for another ;)
<And here you are!>
As always, thanks in advance for the fantastic service that you guys
provide.
<You're quite welcome from all of us crew, past and
present.>
My question is about assumptions regarding coral health...specifically
the use of colouration and polyp expansion as a benchmark of overall
well being. The tendency is obviously to assume that the greater the
degree of polyp expansion we have, and the more vibrant the colours of
the corals are, the healthier they are.
<No, not necessarily.>
So the question is simply: "is this an accurate
assumption?".
<No, not always.>
Or could this be misleading?
<Very.>
For example (and I am making these scenarios up on the spot to play
devil's advocate)
<I like this.>
Could a poorly-placed coral which is not receiving enough light try and
expand more fully in a vain attempt to expose more surface area to the
light?
<Absolutely, mushrooms will often do this in low light situations,
as will clams just to name a few that come quickly to mind.>
Or could some wastes which build up in coral tissues appear colourful
and attractive to our eyes,
<Most certainly! Some of the prettiest corals to the untrained eyes
are those that are bleached and dying.>
but be detrimental to health of the coral in the long-term?
<Of course.>
And just for the sake of clarity I am referring to corals which are in
stable systems (e.g. those we observe on a day-to-day basis in our home
aquariums), not those which have been recently collecting / relocated
so
have shriveled or discoloured as a stress response.
<The key is knowing what the coral, or any livestock for that
matter, should look like. Ideally, being familiar with how the life
form looks and behaves in it's natural environment.>
Regards
<Cheers>
Leon (Brisbane)
<Mich (Pocono Mountains)>
Reef help, coral wont survive.
2/11/08 Hi, my name is Bryce. I live in the Cincinnati Ohio
area. I have been in the hobby of saltwater aquariums now for 6
years and have had many reef tanks mostly nanos. I have been
slowly purchasing my equipment for a bigger reef setup and yet am
having trouble. For 2 months I have been struggling with my reef
tank and need some help. Any coral I add never opens at all and
dies or withers away. I first tried a finger leather, then I
tried a silver branch xenia followed by a green star polyp colony
and cant get anything to open. 3 months ago I took down my 150
gallon FOWLR tank and setup a 75 gallon tank I intend to make a
reef. The tank is 48 inches wide and about 22 inches deep with
the water column about 22 inches high give or take. I moved all
my fish, rock, and inverts (no coral)...just blue and scarlet leg
hermits and such once the new 75 gallon was setup. I moved 75
gallons of water from my 150 to start and two weeks later did a
25% water change like I usually do. My 75 gallon tank has a 1/2
inch thick Aragonite based sand bed, about 150 to 200 lbs of live
rock and 50 or so hermits and snails. Lighting is supplied by 2,
150 watt 14k metal halides and 4, 65 watt actinic 03 compact
fl's. I change my MH's every 6 months with Ushios, and
the actinics with Coralife bulbs every 8 months. The MH's are
12 inches above the water surface, actinics are 6 inches. It is
an open top tank. My circulation is from 2 Hydor Koralia pumps at
1200 gal/hr each and then my sump return of about 500 gal per
hour. I have a siphon box which empties into a refugium tank with
just Chaeto macro algae and a shallow sand bed with 10 lbs of
live rock. It is lighted by a 50/50 65 watt compact fl. bulb. I
let hair algae and green and what ever else grows grow in my
refugium tank and clean out the hair algae once a month. I
don't have any nuisance algae in my main tank. From my
refugium my water pours over through a 25 micron filter bag and
into my 20 gallon sump. I have an aqua-c ev180 protein skimmer, a
Coralife 36 watt uv sterilizer, JBJ Arctica 1/10hp chiller,
aqua-c rx-1 calcium reactor, a diy anaerobic denitrator, <What
is this fed with? The source of carbon or?> and an auto top
off unit connected to a solenoid through a ro/di unit recently
tested at 7ppm total dissolved solids. My water changes come from
this ro unit and I use reef crystals as my salt mix at a specific
gravity of 1.025 measured with a hydrometer. My parameters are as
such. Water is 79 to 80 degrees, nitrates 0ppm, nitrites 0ppm,
phos 0ppm, magnesium is always around 1250ppm, calcium is about
400 to 420 ppm, ph is 8.3, kH is 10 to 11, ammonia is always
undetectable. I dose with only magnesium and use Carib sea A.R.M
in my reactor. When I got my 75 gallon tank all setup and running
I had 2 ocellaris clowns, 1 blue tang and 1 royal Gramma. All the
fish had been in my 150 gallon tank for at least 6 months, the
clowns over 3 years. My trouble started when I noticed my Gramma
was always in hiding. I thought since the acclimation maybe he
was stressed. He died 2 weeks after the tanks was setup. Then my
blue tang died of what appeared to be an Oodinium infection as
did my clowns shortly after. I have no idea where the Oodinium
came from as my newest fish .. the blue tang ... was quarantined
for 3 weeks before going in the 150 gallon tank and lived there
for months without any problem. <Somehow got by...> I
assume that there must have been a very small number of the
parasite in the water and the immunity of the fish was able to
keep it under control until the stress of a new home maybe
lowered their immune system. I don't know. But that added to
all this frustration. It leads me to believe there is an
"unseen" problem with my water quality. <I agree...
Your set-up reads as fine... but there is a chemical, perhaps
bio-chemical anomaly here somewhere> I had several thoughts
about what may be wrong. I thought maybe H2S from my denitrator
was getting in my water. <Mmm, this, or...> Effluent out of
the unit doesn't smell and it is at a constant drip rate into
the sump and the tank is very well circulated. The denitrator has
been running now for 4 years on whatever tank setup I have at the
time. I have never had any problems with it. <This gear
can/does change...> Sand bed is shallow...so I ruled out h2s
in my mind. Plumbing was all new with pvc and I used aquarium
grade silicone with standard pvc cement for all joints. Perhaps
some chemical is getting into my water? <From? A cat-box near
by? Someone spraying glass et al. cleaner in a too air-tight
house?> Perhaps the first coral I introduced died and released
some chemical toxin my other subsequent coral attempts did not
like? <Most real possibility mentioned yet> I thought maybe
my RO/DI unit was malfunctioning in some way... I tested the
water locally at a dealer of units and total dissolved solids was
7ppm.. id like it at 0 but with Ohio river water as my starting
point I think it is working ok. I changed my carbon pre and post
filter every 6 months along with my DI resin. My skunk cleaner
shrimp, all my crabs, my snails, everything is alive and well and
seems to be doing great. <A good clue> Just cant get my
corals to open up. I acclimate them slowly using standard bag
floating methods. <Mmm, see WWM... I'd acclimate
Cnidarians differently. Posted> I always start with my lights
off and proceed with only actinics for one day. Then each day
have my MH's on one more hour until I am up to the full 8
hour photoperiod. I typically use my actinics from 8am to 9pm and
my MH's from 11am to 7pm. I have had many corals in the past
and have never had a problem quite like this one. I always had a
minimum amount of lighting and equipment though. I have never had
such an elaborate setup as I do now and yet cant get any coral to
live. I don't know if my Oodinium problem was related to bad
water quality in some way or if it was just stress from the move.
<Also agreed> Sorry to write a book but I just wanted your
professional help and opinion as to my next move or next thing to
test for. I don't want to keep trying coral without knowing
why they don't open up. Something is not right. Could I be
filtering my water so well that it is devoid of what the coral
needs to open and thrive? <Mmm... not likely> Is it all
just happening too fast after I setup my 75 gallon tank and
things just are not quite in balance? Please help, thanks BRYCE.
<Could be the source of the livestock/corals even... I would
try setting up another system to acclimate them in... move some
of the water from the 75 once some are settled in (a few weeks to
months)... to test the "poor water" hypothesis...
Then... I would systematically remove one element at a time... My
first choice, the denitrator. Bob Fenner>
Re: reef help, coral wont survive. 2-12-08
We have a cat box downstairs about 6 feet from the 30 gallon
top-off water tank. I guess this could be my issue. What is in
the cat litter that would cause my problem? <Mostly thought to
be ammonia getting into solution... can be measured if
present> I guess I should move one or the other. <And do
consider the systematic water and gear testing protocol mentioned
previously. BobF>
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Corals suddenly wilted! A joke? No useful data, or
reading 12/12/07 so. This happened a couple days ago
and finally finished yesterday. I came home to look @ my tank and saw
that all of my hairy mushrooms, my branching hammer coral and another
branching polyp coral had all suddenly wilted and looked dead. Around
the rock where the hairy mushrooms were, a cloudy milky white ooze was
covering the rock and some of the mushrooms were completely gone. The
other 2 corals were near it seem to be affected by what ever happened.
The rest of the corals and fish in the tank seem to be ok. What
happened?! Can they be saved or should I say a prayer for them now... I
have already pulled them out of the tank and put them in a bucket with
a heater and fresh saltwater... please help! ~mike <Uhh, can't
tell you much from the data presented... no information re your system,
water quality, foods/feeding... What you list can't all be simply
jammed in together in a small volume though. Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm and the linked files
above... And soon... your system is crashing. Bob Fenner>
Re: Corals suddenly wilted! - 12/13/07 I'm
sorry. I didn't know what other information to provide. This is
definitely not a joke. The affected corals were together in harmony for
quite some time before this happened. Over 3 months. When the water was
tested, everything was ok. PH was slightly low, but nothing to be
alarmed about. (between 7.9 & 8.0). <Too low...> This is all
in a 24g Nano cube with ample space between them. <No...>
Everything is fed daily, using Spirulina and some frozen Mysis shrimp.
What other data can I provide to help? <... please don't write,
read where you were referred to... and soon. BobF>
Black Band Disease?? Likely poor env., perhaps
allelopathy... 7/28/07 Anyone that can help,
<Okay...> This is the next best thing to dialing 911 when I
have an aquarium problem. <Better> I have this dark brown
kind of slime that has killed my polyps and started damaging my
mushrooms and now is starting to kill my hammerhead. I looked at
the mushrooms and they almost look dirty. There's brown all
over the small crevasses that forms the mushroom. I did some
research and it sounds like the black band disease. How do I get
this out of my tank? Please tell me how I can cure my tank. I have
a 55 gal. In which I do monthly water changes and once a week ad a
capful of Alkalinity Plus from NatuReef and another capful of
Hardness Plus also from NatuReef. <... what water quality
testing do you do?> I feed my corals Cyclop-Eeze mixed with a
capful of phytoplankton from Kent Marine twice a week. <What do
you have that consumes phytoplankton?> All the other corals look
healthy and fat. Help before they all die. Thanks Elsa
<You're joking? Not I take it... you've presented no
useful info.. Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/index.htm Peruse the
articles, FAQs files... re Disease of the various
"corals" you have... their "Systems",
Compatibility... perhaps pattern your queries like others there.
Bob Fenner> |
Yep, actual photo sent.
|
Coral <sic> Health 3/3/07 Hi Guys, <Hello
Joe> I have a 135 gallon Reef Tank that has been set up and running
successfully for over 9 months. Just three days ago, a large
colt coral and a mushroom that were doing very well for over 6 months
started to die. The Colt Coral has all but withered away (In
3 Days!). I noticed the mushrooms starting to detach in the
past 24 hours. What could be causing all these issues all of
a sudden? I haven't changed I do or added anything to
the tank in several months (except a Coral Beauty 2 weeks ago. But he
has shown no interest in any of the corals). I do 25 % water changes
every 30 days. <Part of your problem may lie here. I
believe too much of a change in water parameters at once, especially if
the water chemistry is not closely matched to the display
tank. I'd rather see you with 5% weekly or 10% twice
monthly.> PH - 8.2 Ammonia and Nitrite zero Calcium - 450-500 I use
Kalkwasser for top off water (RO unit) Once a week I add Kent's:
Iodine, Strontium, Magnesium, Essential
Elements I add Kent
Calcium A & B daily Lights are 3 - 150 watt Halides (about a year
old) and 4 - 96 watt
Actinic Blue's.
<How old are the lamps, the color temperature may have
shifted. On another note, are there any cleaning sprays,
etc, that are used in the area of the tank, ammonia based cleaners such
as Windex?> Protein Skimmer working fine I hate these
"mystery" problems. Any help you can give would be
appreciated so I can avoid this problem moving forward. <I'd
check the water chemistry of the make-up water before you add the salt,
may be something amiss here.> Thanks, <You're
welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Joe
Re: Coral Health 3/4/07 Thanks for the help. You
mentioned testing the RO water before adding salt. What should I be
testing for? Could I use my saltwater test equipment? <If
you have a local pure water store, I would take a sample of your RO
water there and have it tested for total dissolved
solids. This will ensure that your RO unit is working
properly. Most importantly, ensure the water chemistry of
the new mix is very close to the chemistry in the display tank.>
Thanks, <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Joe
Re: coral concern- now in panic mode! 9/23/06
Good morning! I'm writing back today regarding the same
issue detailed below. It's now been several weeks and no
improvements that I can see. I've continued to do 20 -
25% water changes 3 times a week. My nitrates, nitrites and
ammonia are all still at 0. These have been at undetectable
levels for months and months so I don't think that this is an issue
here. My salinity is at 1.025, temp at 77
degrees. I've been changing my carbon 3 times a week and
have completely removed the Chemi-pure after removing the Zoa's per
your suggestion. The Zoas have been out of the tank for 12
days now with no change. I'm beginning to wonder if that
was ever the problem. Correct me if I'm wrong here, but
there are two small "baby" mushroom leathers growing at the
base of the big mushroom leather that is the concern. These
babies are not affected at all. Their tentacles are fully
extended all day every day & this has never changed. If
this was an allelopathy issue with the Zoas & mushroom leather...
wouldn't the "babies" be affected too? I would
appreciate any suggestions that you might have. I really am
in panic mode. Every day that the leather stays the same I
get more and more worried. I know it is suffering and I
don't know what else to do. I'm so sad about
this. I thought I was a consciences aquarist, but now not so
sure... Thank you in advance for your consideration, It is much
appreciated! Jaime <<Jaime: I read through all your
posts. What type of lighting do you have and where is the
leather placed in the tank? What kind of what flow does it
have around it? Are there mushrooms nearby or upstream of
the flow? They usually don't like heavy
flow. In my tank, they don't like mushrooms nearby. Best
of luck, Roy>>
Stunted Polyps are
Stumping Me 01-01-06 Hello. <Aloha> Read and reviewed most of
the FAQ on Polyps but none addressed my specific problem. I have a 55
Gallon Tank that's been running for over a year. ph 8.4 Calcium 340
dKH 14 Nitrate 0 Nitrite 0 <These tests look good.> 3 Power Heads
for water circulation Tank has 35 pounds of Live Rock Fish; 1 Yellow
Tang, 1 Bluefin Damselfish, 1 Purple Firefish, 1 Royal Gramma, 1 Pygmy
Angelfish <Sounds good, but remember that tang will out-grow your
tank in a hurry.> Polyps; Green Star Polyp, Colony Polyp, Button
Polyp Mushrooms; Red Mushroom, Bubble Mushroom, Green Striped Mushroom,
Coral Red Brain Coral. The concern is regarding all of the Polyps. All
are severely stunted. The Green Star was my first purchase
and for the longest time (say 5 months) it grew and was fully
extended. Then one day. it shrunk and has never returned to
its normal size. <This can be a common occurrence in some tanks. It
seems to surface with extremely clean water, like that found in SPS
tanks, or tanks with high nitrates or phosphates.> Could it be
toxins from the Red Brain Coral? <It could be, but I would blame the
Shrooms first. This can be resolved with simple activated carbon
usage.> They are about 24 inches away from each other. <Distance
does not matter in a closed system.> Could the lights be too
bright.? I have a Coralife Lunar Aqualight installed it Feb 2005 and
have not changed the light bulbs. <Could be out of spectrum.> The
Green Star and Colony Polyp look healthy. The Button does not. < I
would lean toward an elevated phosphate level or chemical warfare.>
Maybe I'm missing something that's right in front of my
nose. So any and all suggestions of what is going on would
be helpful. <Run a phosphate sponge and activated carbon.>
Lastly.. I looked at some pictures of other Red Brain Coral on the
internet and while mine looks healthy it is in a "closed
position" (kinda looks like a Clam) rather than an Open position.
<Could be due to the same water issues listed above or the lighting
is out of spectrum. Remember water and bulb changes never hurt.
Travis> Hope this was enough. by the way. I do enjoy this
hobby :-)
My corals won't open? Hello, I recently purchased two
corals.....Green Star and Pagoda They have yet to open their polyps...
my tank levels are excellent.. any ideas? Also how do I keep my hermit
crab away from the corals and live rock? <Please read over our site:
www.WetWebMedia.com Bob Fenner> Thanks Scott Ullemeyer Well, the
same question back apply: Some folks systems are missing an essential
material/nutrient... like trace strontium or iodine, or have too much
of something... like too much phosphate.... or don't realize
they've installed incompatible types of livestock that are waging
physical, chemical war actively or passively with each other. Or have
conditions that otherwise favor or contribute to factors that negate
"opening" behavior, like too little light. All these
considerations are species, population and system specific. That's
why it's necessary to as about your livestock, set-up and
history... Or to write several thousand words trying to describe the
most common possibilities/reasons for opening/non-opening of
your/anyone's corals. Bob Fenner
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