FAQs About Turtle Babies,
Young: Systems
Related Articles: My Turtle Laid Eggs. What do I do?
by Darrel Barton, Turtles, Shell Rot in Turtles, Amphibians, Red Eared Slider Care,
FAQs on: Turtle Reproduction & Young,
RES Reproduction & Young,
FAQs on: Young Turtle
Identification, Young Turtle
Behavior, Young Turtle
Compatibility, Young Turtle
Stocking/Selection, Young Turtle
Feeding, Young Turtle
Disease,
Related FAQs: Turtles 1,
Turtles 2, Red Ear Sliders, Turtle Identification, Turtle Behavior, Turtle Compatibility, Turtle Selection, Turtle Systems, Turtle Feeding, Turtle Disease, Shell Rot, & by Species: Cooters/Mud Turtles, Softshells, Snapping Turtles, Mata Matas, Tortoises, & Amphibians, Other Reptiles,
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4 baby Red Ear Sliders 6/23/12
Hi there.
<Hiya - Darrel here>
My name is Adam, and my Wife and I recently bought four baby RES. I've
only had them for about a month now. They are very slightly larger than
a quarter (25 cents). I bought a 50 gallon tank, filled it 1/3 with
water, using the appropriate amount of ZILLA aquatic reptile water
conditioner. I then put in an AQUEON water pump/filter. Filled the
bottom of the tank with very smooth rocks from the local pet store, and
on the end farthest from the pump, I made a slope coming out of the
water right under the ZILLA 75watt / 120volt heat lamp. Right next to
the ZILLA 13watt / tropical25 UV lamp. I also put in a TETRA FAUNA
aquatic reptile water heater preset to at 78'F. The have two little fake
floating pieces of land which they thoroughly enjoy hiding under if they
get nervous.
<So far, so good>
There is also some fake plants for privacy that they all 4 seem to
recognize and use often when coming up for air... I turn the lights on
every morning at exactly 8am. And off every night at exactly 11:30pm. I
feed them once every other day, but sometimes I'll see one or two
digging at the rocks at the bottom of the tank, searching for
bloodworms, and I'll give 'em a snack. Right now, I honestly don't know
what to feed them besides BLOOD WORMS. I threw in a couple small pieces
of store bought LETTUCE one time, but they didn't even nibble at it. So
far there doesn't seem to be any problem with competition for food or
light or anything, but they are still all the same size.
<Go get a bag of SMALL sized Koi pellets or Repto-min floating food
sticks. That's your primary food from now until they double in
size - then go to regular-sized Koi pellets for the rest of their lives.
These pellets/sticks are highly plant-based and fully balanced for
raising turtles.>
When they get a little bigger, I'm sure I'll have to separate them
eventually.
<Not necessarily - turtles can be very social. Don't worry about
that until you see serious aggression. The males will stop growing
at the size of a closed fist and the females will continue to grow>
They are very friendly, and it seems they are becoming more comfortable
and not as nervous when I go to feed them or clean their tank. We handle
them whenever I clean the tank, which is once, maybe twice, a week.
Although I don't ever handle them when I feed them. I turn off the water
pump/filter and do my best to give them privacy while they eat. These 4
little guys are the first RES turtles my Wife and I have ever owned. I
think I'm doing good so far... But I need a professional opinion. Please
help with what to feed them, what I'm doing wrong, or if I can do
anything to make them happier... And should female and male (brothers
and sisters) be raised together? Should I separate them? And if so which
ones, and when? Thank you for all your help!
<I think you’re doing fine already!! I wouldn't bother with the
water conditioner though - save that money and add it to the replacement
UV light fund, etc.>
<Make sure they have basking heat AND UV-B, 72 degree water (room temp
NEVER a heater if they're indoors and 88-92 degree basking area.>
<read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm >
<Also: Name one of them Herkimer and never EVER let them near your
Checkbook or Debit cards - Red Eared Sliders have absolutely NO sense of
money or restraint!>
Sent from my iPhone
<^Bragging>
Red
Eared Slider, sys. for baby 11/23/11
Hello,
<Hi Abbey, Sue here with you.>
I recently purchased a Red Eared Slider turtle. The employee at the pet
store owns a Red Eared Slider and told me that a 3 gallon tank
would be fine for the baby turtle. I'm concerned about this tank
being too small.
<Abbey, kudos to you for trusting your own instincts and questioning
the advice you were given, rather than following it blindly! When my
1st child was a newborn, I sought out the expertise of an experienced
doctor when I was feeling insecure about making the *right* choices.
Ill never forget his response. He told me that in his 30+ years of
practice the one thing hes learned during that time is that the moms,
not him, are the true experts! He advised me to trust and follow my own
*gut* instincts when assessing whether something seems right or not,
and/or when determining the *right* thing to do. His advice made no
sense to me at the time. I couldnt see how I could ever have any sort
of gut instinct about anything as I knew absolutely NOTHING about
babies, and had no past experience to draw from. However, it landed up
happening just the way he said it would! So now even though I still
seek out answers from others, in the end I weigh everything out and go
with the answer that makes the most amount of sense to me. Now,
hopefully my answers here will make sense to you! :) >
The tank has a filter, a basking area, and room to swim around.
<Do you also have a bulb thats specifically UVB, and also a bulb to
provide a heat source over the basking area? If not, these are
important requirements. >
The employee also informed me that the turtle will adapt to the size of
the tank; but I might need to buy a new tank in about 2 years because
it might grow just enough where 3 gallons is not enough.
<Im not sure what this employee means by *adapt* ...>
<If he/she is referring to a turtles growth being dependent on or
limited by enclosure size, that's definitely not the case. Their
growth is completely independent of the size of their enclosure. They
also tend to grow at a faster rate until they reach about 4 or so.
After that they slow down. But eventually RES males average up to 10 in
size when theyre fully grown; female RES can grow to be as large as the
size of a dinner plate!>
<If shes referring to turtles adapting *behavior wise* to a tiny
enclosure, IMO (my gut instinct!), this is the wrong way to look at it.
Most people could likely adapt to a prison cell over time, and many
cats and dogs unfortunately have to live their lives out in cramped
cages. Technically, most of them would all likely *get
by/adapt/survive* in these types of living conditions. The real
question to me is not one of basic survival, but instead our
responsibility to provide humane care and quality of life to
pets/animals whose lives were taken from their control and placed under
ours. >
I have already purchased everything and the turtle seems to have
adapted fine, but while reading I continue to see very large tank
sizes. My turtle's shell is about 1.5 inches.
<The *industry standard* thats commonly referenced on websites for
aquatic turtles is 10 gallons per straight inch of their top shell
(carapace) length. Even according to this standard a 3 gallon aquarium
falls short. Technically a smaller turtle like yours could survive in a
smaller enclosure, assuming all the other requirements about their care
and environment are met. However, here are some additional things to
consider:
What aquatic turtles (of any size) appreciate most is as much surface
area (length and width) as possible to swim around. So rather than a
specific # of gallons, what we recommend is to buy as long and wide an
enclosure as you can realistically manage in terms of maintenance time
and effort (i.e. ease of water changes since good water quality should
always be the top consideration), and whatever limitations you might
have space-wise and cost wise (but see bullet further down re:
cost).
The more water you have, the less it will be susceptible to temperature
fluctuations from your heat light. Ideally you want the water to be on
the cooler side, around 68-70 degrees F. Its going to likely be more
challenging for you with a 3 gallon tank to keep the water in this
cooler range than it would be if you had a larger enclosure that could
hold more water.
You dont need to buy an expensive glass aquarium! Some people use
pre-formed ponds (even indoors). Some even use larger plastic storage
containers from a home store!
As a general rule, a larger enclosure will give you more flexibility to
turn it into an interesting living environment. And the more you can
create a habitat thats as close to your turtles natural habitat as
possible, the more enjoyment both you and he will get out of it!
>
Abbey
<Abbey, since youre a new *turtle mom*, Im also attaching below a
link to our basic care guide. You should use it as a checklist to make
sure you have all the necessary basics in place to get him off to the
right start! Read it over and feel free to write back with any other
questions or concerns you might have; were happy to help however we
can:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm
>
Re: Red Eared Slider 11/27/11
That was very helpful, thank you so much!
<Youre welcome Abbey, happy to help!>
I do have a heat/UVB light that came with the tank but I think I will
ask for a new tank for my birthday which is in the summer; I think he
will do fine until then. I am a little worried about the space issue in
my room though, my turtle is placed on top of a dresser that is not big
enough for a big tank. Do you have any suggestions?
<If at all possible, to make things easier for you to do regular
water changes, Id recommend locating the aquarium close to a sink. If
space is a problem, you may want to consider adding to your available
space by going *vertical* - i.e. getting a shelving unit where things
can be stored above and below the aquarium. You can find reasonable
priced units at places like IKEA, Target or Wal-Mart. One word of
caution though if you land up buying a larger size aquarium, you want
to make sure the shelves will be strong enough to support the weight of
it!>
<Another possibility, depending on your space, is to buy a longer
piece that can serve double duty as a work/study space and a place for
your aquarium. Again, IKEA has some great low cost table tops and legs
(which they sell separately), such as their VIKA line which allows you
to custom design your own table/desk for a very low cost --
http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/categories/departments/workspaces/10712/
>
<If you can afford it, of course an aquarium stand is another
option. Since you have a few months before you plan to buy the
aquarium, you can shop around either online or in your local pet stores
to find out where to get one for the best price, when they have their
usual sales, etc.>
<Good luck; hope this helps! ~
Sue>
Lost & Found turtle - Please
help! 11/4/11
Dear Crew,
<Hiya - Darrel here>
I have a baby Red Ear Slider it is about one inch. It
got lost when I let it out for a few moments and I finally
found it 5 days later.
<That's amazing, isn't it? When we WATCH them, they seem to
be these slow, ponderous and ungainly animals but if we turn our
attention away for, like THREE SECONDS thy can run the 100 yard dash.
And something that people don't know about Sliders and their
families -- they can climb fences, too!>
It's so thin along with turning a duller color!
<He's undoubtedly stressed>
It barely moves he refuses to open his eyes.
<Understandable>
When I put it back in the water it just floats and barely grabs on.
<Yes, he's gone into a semi-hibernation state called torpidity
and the only immediate thing to do is to get him out of the water and
get him warm and dry>
Please help I don't want it to die.
<He probably won't die>
How to I get my baby turtle (Folsom) to eat and get healthier! I
currently have him placed under a light.
<That was a good thing to do>
Please help! What do I do?
<What we need to do is let Folsom warm up & wake up. This may
take a day or two. During this time we don't want to put him in any
deep amount of water because if he's not fully awake he can take
water in his lungs and drown.>
<We want him WARM, but not cooked, either. Make sure that he's
not so close to a hot lamp that he overheats. I use a heating pad set
on low>
<When Folsom starts showing signs of perking up, put him in a
shallow bowl of water (like a saucer actually) with water that barely
comes up to his chin. Let him soak in it and perhaps drink a
little.>
<Once he feels awake and starts moving around, then you can feed him
a little bit and then put him back in his normal tank. But even when
you do that, put him on his log, land or whatever basking area you
have, facing away from the water. What we want is for Folsom to DECIDE
it's time to go in the water, not just fall off the
log>
Hello!
RES, small/baby... sys.
<Hi Lauren! Sue here.>
I have a question about my baby red ear slider turtle. "He"
is very tiny (silver dollar size) and I've read set ups for tanks
and followed for what I thought was best for him. I noticed he never
wants to come out of his water. I have a whole section of his tank with
dry rocks and a lamp, yet he will bury himself under the rocks and poke
his head above the water. It's been about a month since I've
had him and not once have I seen him just hanging out on dry land. Is
there something causing him to do this?
<It could be hes still nervous, but I would have expected him to
come out and bask by now. Its possible he might have come out when
youre not around, but for now lets assume he hasnt to be on the safe
side.>
<It could be your water temperature is too warm and the land isnt
warm enough to entice him to come out. The water should be kept cooler
(68-70 degrees F range). A heat lamp and a UVB lamp (both are needed)
should be right above the rocks, and the temperature should be in the
88-92 degrees F range). The cool water is what typically gives them
that extra motivation to come out and warm up.>
Should I take him out of his tank and make him be on dry land every day
for a while? I just want him to be okay.
<Yes, it wouldnt be a bad idea to get him in a warm, dry place for a
few days if he really hasnt been out of the water for this entire
period. However, rather than make him be on his land, Id remove him
altogether and place him in a separate warm, dry enclosure for the next
few days, except for a few minutes each day to drink, eat and poop. Ive
attached the following link that has instructions for exactly how to go
about doing this. See under the section entitled, Immediate Treatment
ISOLATION.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/treating%20RES%20Dis%20DarrelB.htm
>
I saw him way under sized, in a dollar store and felt I had to save him
and I dont want to cause him any harm due to my lack of turtle
knowledge.
<Poor thing! Its the unfortunate reality of the trade. And thank you
for trying to learn as much as you can to take good care of
him.>
please help! Thank you,
Lauren
<Youre welcome, Lauren! It sounds like youve done some reading, but
Im attaching the following link to our care guide just to make sure you
have all the necessary basics covered:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm >
<Give this a read, check your water and basking temperatures, and
let him get warm and dry under heat and UVB for a few days. Hopefully
one or all of these things will give him a jump start! Good luck, and
write us back if you need any further help with this, or if other
questions or concerns come up. ~Sue>
Newly Hatched Red Eared
Slider 8/18/11
Hello,
<Hiya - Darrel here>
My turtle laid eggs and four of them hatched this past week
<Isn't that just the coolest thing, ever?? I've been
breeding sliders and Sulcata tortoises for years and still, every time
the hatch starts it brings a big grin to my face>
but they like to dig themselves in the ground. Is this normal? I live
in Texas and its very hot here, is it that they are trying to cool
down? I keep them in the shade and keep the ground moist. I tried
keeping them inside already but they still dig themselves in the
ground. Should I put them in a tank with water or should I leave them
there for a little longer? I put them in shallow water a few times
already but I don't know if they are ready for a regular 10 gallon
tank.
<They're ready for a 'normal' aquatic environment about
4 hours after they're hatched, so yes you can. They don't need
really deep water and they do need EASY methods in and out. In the
wild, a hatchling will head for the water and then the safety of the
floating weeds or grasses. They won't completely haul out of the
water for many weeks because they don't feel safe. In captivity I
give then 4 inches of water in a sloping container (an aquarium with
one end sitting on a piece of wood to angle it) so they have a
beach-like ramp. I place a low wattage incandescent bulb about the dry
end for warmth and a UV-B florescent bulb across the rear, hanging
about 6 inches up from the bottom.>
<Make them feel safe and they'll swim and bask to do turtle
stuff really soon.>
< http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm
>
Thank You
Jonathan
Filters 5/23/11
Hi!
<Hiya right back at ya!! Darrel here>
I have baby Red Eared Slider in a half full 20 gallon
tank, with a filter that hangs over the edge. The brand is Tetra, model
is Whisper 20i. I just changed the carbon filter, but the water is
still rather murky.
<Interesting, If the tank is half full, then the filter is having to
suck the water WAY above the water level, which cuts down significantly
on the water it circulates.>
<There are tanks that you can buy specifically for turtles, where
one end only has glass going half way up - then you hang the filter on
that and fill the tank half way, but to the filter it's the same as
a FULL tank>
Any suggestions for a secondary filter that will keep the tank
cleaner?
<Compared to fish, turtles are poop machines. It takes a LOT of
filtering to keep the water clean. I'd look for a small canister
filter that can take water from a suction tube at one end of the tank
and return it to a spray bar under water at the other end.>
<Still - you will likely need to siphon out dirty water and fill
with clean water fairly often.>
Turtles are still healthy so far, with good eating, basking, and
activity habits and very good growth. I want to keep it that way!
<thanks for the effort, Britany we want to help you in any way we
can>
< http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm
>
Baby Red Eared Slider
5/23/11
Monday, May 23rd, 2011
<Yes it is!!>
First I want to say I have searched your site with the Google Toolbar
as instructed and I didn't find what I was looking for and if you
have already answered these than I am sorry I didn't check well
enough, any who here's some background.
<No worries - but we do SO MUCH thank you for trying. Sometimes we
actually get letters from people who write "I didn't want to
waste the time searching so I thought I'd write and ask" -- to
which we often reply "well I don't want to waste the time
answering ...>
(My name is Danielle by the way though I don't find that as
important, hehe)
<Hiya - my name is Darrel and oddly, I find that important. If it
wasn't my name then how would I know when someone is trying to get
my attention?>
I have a baby turtle named Fiona; she is about the size of a silver
dollar though I know sexing isn't possible I like to think she is
my princess! She has a 10 gallon tank with the water as deep and her
shell is long because that's what I read somewhere was safe.
<Yeah - it's not bad. As long as they can completely submerge
they will be able to feel safe>
I feed her ReptoMin baby turtle food; about 8 pellets a day, as well as
occasional veggies.
<That's a BIT much if she's over a year old, feed her all
she can eat in 5 minutes, 3 times a week. One of the biggest problems
we see in pets is obesity from over feeding>
She has an all spectrum light and her water is around 80 F and her tank
air at about 71 F ish.
<OK - first problem. The surface of the basking area should be
around 83-90 degrees and the WATER should be 68-71 degrees. You seem to
have it backwards. They need to bask to warm up and swim to cool
down>
She has a basking rock and is best friends with the cat! They play
through the glass its super cute!
<Cats have a funny way of changing their friendships without notice,
so please makes sure the tank has some sort of cover, OK? Don't
ever assume that the cat has pure motives. I have a cat that seems
friendly and loving toward my iguanas when I'm watching, but when
I'm not she commits crimes and attempts to implicate them.>
I change the water about once a week and put in those turtle shaped
water things I don't know what brand I use because I just buy
whatever is cheapest at Wal-Mart.
<Those are probably calcium blocks or mineral blocks. The problem is
that turtles get their calcium and minerals through their diet and not
the water. Repto-min is a perfectly balanced food for her, so you can
dispense with the blocks!>
Question 1:
<Darn a test and I didn't study>
She has been shedding which I know is normal but I looked at her tank
tonight as I was playing with her (she chases my finger) and her water
was very dirty, like the little clear wispy pieces of skin where
everywhere! She has never shed this much, I am worried. I checked her
for white spots, dull spots, inflamed areas of skin; really anything
that didn't look normal and she was fine besides the shedding. I
know its normal but to what extent?
<If there is anything unusual at all its that there may be a bit of
fungus growing in the water because the water is way too hot. The
shedding skin may be growing a bit of fungus, but not enough to
actually infect Fiona yet. Keep the water clean and after you get the
basking temp problem fixed, Fiona will dry out under the basking lamp
and that will help keep her skin in good shape.>
Question 2: She has never been in deep water and a couple days ago
while cleaning her tank I decided to try a new set up and put in more
water. She sank right to the bottom and freaked out! She was swimming
frantically from one end to the other and I let this go on for about 10
min.s until I got worried and didn't want my little girl to drown.
Is it possible to help teach her how to swim and float or are there
tips I can use for getting her used to deeper water?
<When given a choice, turtles would rather have a wider and longer
enclosure than a deeper one. If you notice her when she's in water,
she's swimming back and forth far more than she's diving down.
I'm just mentioning that for when she gets bigger and you're
going for a larger tank look for tanks that are as long and as wide as
possible.>
<as to Fiona freaking out, she did that because things were changed,
not because she's afraid of deep water. Here is what I
suggest:>
<1- set things back to normal>
<2- fix the water temperature. Turtles do NOT need heated water if
you live south of the Arctic Circle. Let her water be the same as your
room temperature>
<3- make sure that the tank has a cat-proof covering of some
sort>
<4- slowly increase the water level in her same tank. Add about an
inch of water every other day - making sure to change the level of her
basking area AND as you slowly raise THAT, you have to move the basking
lamp a bit higher as well. If you make the changes slowly enough, Fiona
won't notice that she's having more fun>
Thank you so much for taking time out of your day and answering my
questions!
<No problem - we enjoy doing it>
Re: Baby Red Eared Slider 5/25/11
I do have a cover!
<Great>
I know I don't trust my cat that much, haha. I have fixed her water
and basking area temps as soon as I read this. I will also stop buying
those blocks!
<great>
You guys are the best!
<Hmmm - I don't know about THAT but we ARE better than a poke in
the eye with a sharp stick!>
Re Red Eared Slider - info & corrections... PPs
corr./redux 4/3/11
Thank you for the response...
<No additional charge!>
I actually didn't even realize I had misread (and misspelled)
puffer's name until I read your response. In any case.
<Yeah - onward & upward!>
I do have an actual question about my baby Red Eared
Sliders. I have 2, and have a large aquarium
for them (large for their current size... about 1.5"). I
have added sand on one side of the tank... enough to
have a sandy area sticking out of the water. I also have a basking
platform that I moved close to the sand and placed the basking light
over. So they have plenty of room and a choice of terrain to bask on.
They seem to like it and whenever I come home from work or being away
for whatever reason, if I very slowly and carefully open the door to
that room I usually find at least one of them basking until they notice
me and jump into the water. I've only had them for just over a week
now, but I noticed that one of them has taken to burrowing in the sand
under the water. I thought maybe it had to do with the water temp so I
checked the water temp (75F) and added a thermometer strip to the side
of the tank last night. So water temp seems to be good... I have read
that some burrowing is normal but it seems the turtle is burrowing and
sleeping and I'm a little concerned that it won't be able to
get free and breathe when necessary.
<Usually that's not an issue, Alan. As long as you don't
construct a hard surface "cave" or branch overhang, etc.
where they could actually get trapped, you should be OK.>
The other turtle is so active and always swimming around and watching
me when I am near. When I pick up the burrowing one it will usually sit
in my hand for a moment and look at me and then start looking for some
place to burrow in to. I held it with in my left hand last night with
my right hand loosely cupped over top and it went toward the back of
the little cubby my hands were creating and proceeded to try to dig in
deeper through my fingers. Also, this was right after I pulled it out
of the sand and it was very sluggish in moving for a little bit. It
perked up after I held it for a while though and started acting
normally. Does it sound like I have anything to be concerned about? And
is the burrowing under water a potential hazard for the little
turtle?
<Basically, it seems like you have a shy turtle, because you wrote
that when you sneak in you find "at least" one of them -
implying that sometimes you've seen two. I'm a big fan of
giving the turtles cool water (68-72f) and a warm basking area (88-93f)
and letting them choose where to spend their time.>
<Meanwhile, watch the basics. Do they eat heartily? Sometimes you
have to withhold food for a day or two and maybe even feed them in a
separate bowl so that you can watch them. Shells firm? Eyes clear?
Basking regularly (that one is hard with a shy turtle)?>
<If you go into that room and stay there bring a book and sit
quietly and read does the shy one eventually come out and if so is he
or she active?>
<The other thing to keep in mind is that it's only been a week.
Keep your routine constant; spend some quiet time (such as sitting,
watching/reading, etc. not invasive time - no handling) every day for
another week or two and see how they are when they
relax.>
Red Ear Slider, sexing, sys.
12/16/10
Hi
<Hiya - Darrel here>
I just have a couple questions, I was wondering if you can help me.
<I've often wondered if I can help people, too.>
I have a Red Ear Slider and for the characteristics it seems like a
male but I have notice already twice that a black looking sack comes
out of the turtle's butt apparently and it keeps it out for a few
minutes and then it suck it back up, any idea of what that could
be?
<Yep! That's his .. um er .. ah party animal. It comes out when
he's sexually excited (and NO ONE knows what excites a male turtle)
and will go in by itself>
Another question is, I recently bought a bigger tank and I got those
colored rocks to put at the bottom of the tank, how recommendable is
that?
<As long as they are too big to swallow, it's not a
problem>
and do you have any other recommendations, I'm afraid the turtle
will eat them.
< Generally I use a bare tank floor and decorate it with large
stones spaces apart and this is merely because turtles are so messy it
makes the tank much easier to clean.>
Thank you very much!
I hope you can help me.
<I hope so, too!>
Regards
WALTHER
<Read: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm>
Baby RES turtle, sys., env. dis.
11/07/10
Hi,
<Hiya - Darrel here>
I've looked all over the site trying to find the answer to my
question. So I hope I don't sound like a broken record to you. I
had 2 Red Eared Slider turtles (Snaps and Num Nums) I got them in July
of 2010. They were 1 inch in diameter and are now 2 inches. They
started with a 55 gal tank with silk vegetation and a water heater.
<OK .>
Living in Washington state it starts to get cold in October needless to
say it starting to get cold (down to 50's during the day and the
mid 40's at night). I had turtles in California and never had to
get them a basking lamp
<Well yes, you DID have to it's just for some odd reason, they
didn't get sick and die>
so it never occurred to me to get my baby turtles one. So my problem is
both babies stopped eating about two weeks ago. The little one of the
two had started basking and one day I went to see them and he was
completely limp. He didn't move and so I called my vet and he said
I need the heat lamp and a UVB light so I rushed out and got both
lights and placed them in there. Sadly Nums did not make it :( but now
my other baby turtle is doing the same thing the other one did now all
she does is bask and she doesn't go to the water. She won't eat
at all I even tried flavoring her pellets with tuna water(as suggested
on a site and she didn't even look at it) I have her on ReptoMin
pellets. Her water temp is 74degrees. And how close should I have the
basking light away from the basking rock? It's a 100watt bulb and
it's the night one so I can keep it on all day and night.
<I don't understand what a 'night one' means. A basking
lamp is normally a regular old incandescent bulb. You CAN use a heat
lamp if you have one, but it's not necessary. Both the basking/heat
lamp should be on approximately 12 hours a day as should the UV/B lamp.
The basking area should be around 88-93 degrees. You can measure that
by leaving an oven thermometer on the spot, under the lamp, for 5
minutes and then check the reading. Move the lamp up or down depending
on the adjustment and test again. Then be sure to clean the
thermometer.>
<Here is a link that coverers the basics: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm
>
How long does it normally take baby turtles to bounce back? I'd
like to know if she will eventually go back to normal or if I should do
something for her. I really don't want to have a second baby turtle
funeral :( thank you for your help.
<We'll do what we can>
<The first bit of bad news is that by the time ANY fish or reptile
shows outward signs of illness, they've already been ill for quite
a while and by then are VERY sick. The second bit is that it's more
acute in babies.>
<First, get the baby OUT of the water completely. At this stage all
that would do for her is offer the opportunity to drown. What she needs
is a vet visit, an injections of vitamins (A& D mostly) and calcium
and a drop or two of some liquid food.>
<Then she needs to be warm and dry, where the warmth is coming 24/7
from a heating pad on the bottom and 14 hours a day of UV/B from
above.>
<Please read this link, get her warm and dry IMMEDIATELY and then
see what you can do about a vet visit.>
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/treating%20RES%20Dis%20DarrelB.htm
Caring for baby red eared sliders
11/15/09
Hello Crew,
<Hello Samantha,>
I've just acquired two baby red eared slider turtles.
<Oh dear. Do understand these animals are time-consuming and quite
difficult to look after, and make very poor impulse purchases.>
They're roughly about the size of a quarter. I'm not exactly
sure how to care for them, I've read up on care for adult sliders
but caring for babies is quite different then caring for adults.
<It's actually not so different. The main thing is that water
isn't so deep they can't breathe easily. A good ball-park
estimate is that the terrapin should be able to stand on its back legs
and poke its nose out. So look how big the shell is, add about 50%, and
that's a good depth of water for very small terrapins. There needs
to be a ramp or similar that allows the terrapin to climb out onto its
basking spot (to stone under the combination heat/UV-B lamp).>
I'd like to know everything there is to know about caring for them
from the time they are young to the time they are adults.
<Read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWsubwebindex/RESCareBarton.htm
>
I don't think it is fair to keep them as full grown adults, would
it be wise to let the go in a lake or is that fatal because they've
been in captivity for so long? ( I live in Michigan ).
<This would be extremely cruel. Captive specimens have no idea how
to survive in the wild, and would be run over by a car, eaten by a
predator, vulnerable to diseases against which they have no resistance,
and very likely to starve to death. Without having the experienced of
wintertime torpor, they will have no idea how to build up fat reserves
or find suitably safe resting spots. This IS NOT an option. Either buy
these animals with a view to keeping them for their full lifespan
(around 15-20 years) or else don't buy them at all and keep
something else, like a pet rock or a cactus. It's as simple as
that. You can't buy animals with a view to letting them loose when
you get bored with them or find their needs too demanding.>
Please get back with me with all of the caring information I need to
know.
<It should really go without saying that you must find out about an
animal BEFORE you buy it as a pet. Anything else is
irresponsible.>
Thank you so much for your time :) Have a good day!!!
Samantha R.
<Happy to help. Cheers, Neale.>
Shipping
Baby Turtles - 04/08/06 We are hoping to purchase a few baby
RES turtles. We live in northeast Pennsylvania and are
awaiting the warm temperatures. At what minimum temperature
do you think it would be warm enough for us to consider having the
turtles shipped? Thank you for you assistance. < Baby turtles are
usually born in the spring when daytime temps are in the 70's. Most
reptiles are shipped in insulated boxes so they don't change
temperatures during transit. I would not ship anything unless the
lowest temp was at least 40 F and well above
freezing.-Chuck>
Red Eared Slider Egg Incubation
3/21/06 I have a female slider living in my pond and she laid two
nests of eggs a few weeks back. We are wondering how long it
takes for the eggs to hatch? Thanks, Sarah < At 80 F about 60 days.
Longer or shorted depending on the temperature.-Chuck>
Red eared slider baby hatchlings I had 4 new red eared
turtles and 2 of them died I keep the water clean I have a 20 gal long
aquarium, basking ramp, light. filter .... I have well water do turtles
water need to be tested like the water of fish and if so what are the
levels I need to keep < Water chemistry is not as critical for
turtles as it is for fish. If the turtle shells are soft and mushy then
the lighting is wrong. They need a bright warm full spectrum light to
bask. These little turtles are usually pretty hardy under the right
conditions. Hopefully you are giving them a varied diet.-Chuck>