GF Env Dis F 5

FAQs on Goldfish Environmental Disease 5
(ex: issues of poor water quality, overcrowding, unfavorable tank/water conditions, temperature, etc.)

New Print and eBook on Amazon

Goldfish Success
What it takes to keep goldfish healthy long-term

by Robert (Bob) Fenner

Sick fantail fish 5/6/11
Hello, my name is Valerie. I have 3 fantail goldfish in a 20 gallon tank.
<Trouble... environmental...>
One is orange, one is calico, and the largest is white. Something is horribly wrong with my white fish! It started out the same size as the other two about 5 months ago. Now it has more than doubled them. The white one seems to also be the only one acting ill.
<All will soon perish here...>
It has very raised scales and has become very bloated. I noticed today a few scales missing. Also, the very large white fish was hanging out in the back right hand corner of the tank for 3 days and is now settled just floating slightly above the bottom. This poor fish used to be very active.
Our pump does not make bubbles into the water, it just circulates it almost unnoticeably. Its a whisper pump. I have started to notice very challenged breathing today. Our fish mean a lot to us! We live in an apartment and are not allowed to have pets, the fish started out as just for our young son, but now I am completely attached to them! I spend hours a day just watching them. And they seem very drawn to me more than my son or husband. Contrary to people saying that fish are not smart...I believe my babies are. lol I love these fish, please help me! thank you for your time
<Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshsystems.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Re: Sick fantail fish 5/6/11
Thank you so much for your time! I immediately purchased a larger tank and added a bubble curtain across the whole backside of the tank approx an inch away from the wall.
<Yay!>
Im not real experienced with fish but I assumed dumping the water that they were used to into the new tank then filling the rest of the way with fresh water was correct.
<Yes; this is best>
I moved their existing driftwood and rocks into the new larger tank also. Im not too sure how this is going to work out but my husband added two small crabs into the larger tank with them. Again, thank you so much!
<Do put the crabs in the small/er olde tank. Cheers! BobF>

Blisters, on GF, the usual sans reading 4/29/11
<Bunny>
Hello,
I have a question about my goldfish. Several months ago my goldfish developed a white spot on his tail and on its mouth, now the white spot on the tail looks to have turned into a blister and the one on the mouth looks like it is turning into one also. I don't know what to do. If you could please help me I would greatly appreciate it so much. The tank is a 5 gallon tank
<Here's the problem... a "negative feedback loop" w/ this fish's wastes and an inadequate volume of water to dilute them in>
with a whisper filter and we only have that goldfish in it. Ashley is a rather large goldfish with a large fan like tail, not really sure what it is but it is about 8" or so.
<...>
Thank you so much for your time.
Best regards,
Bunny
<Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshsystems.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Re: Blisters 4/29/11
Bob,
Do you think that this is going kill my goldfish?
<W/o being moved to a suitable world, yes>
Could my fish recover from this and what can I do in the meantime till I am able to get a bigger tank?
<Hope>
Thank you so much for your help.
Bunny
<W. B>

Help! Goldfish eye trouble :(... env. 4/26/11
Hello, I just wrote to you about stocking a 55 gallon, thank you very much for your fast and helpful response. Well now I am having trouble with my goldfish. I have an Oranda goldfish (3-4 inches) and a Pearlscale goldfish (much smaller, about 2 inches) in a 20 gallon tank.
<Mmm, need more room>
I tried to do fishless cycling, by adding ammonia and Dr Tim's instant bacteria (from drsfostersmith) but I don't think it worked.
<Usually does. Amongst such products, this one is the best>
I added the Oranda (purchased him from PetSmart), and when all seemed well a couple weeks later I added the Pearlscale (from Petco). All seemed great until I went to feed them one morning and I noticed that the Pearlscale's left eye was completely gone!
<What?! Must have "gotten snagged"... maybe on the T. rex?>
I watch the fish a lot, and I'm very observant (or at least I like to think I am). I noticed absolutely nothing until the eye was just gone. I spent a good 20 minutes watching them the night before, they looked normal. He just had a hole in his head with a red center, and the eyeball (or possibly the shell of the eye, what was left of it) was stuck to the filter. I have dinosaur ornaments in there (one is a bubbler where the T-rex opens and shuts his mouth), I immediately turned the bubbler down so the T-Rex no longer moved, fearing the ornaments were too sharp and he got hurt.
<Was my guess as well>
It still has bubbles coming out the back but the mouth stays shut now. I also put a large sponge over the filter intake (it is a Tetra Whisper EX30) afraid that the filter might have sucked his eye out, hoping to diffuse the suction. I argued with myself over if I should take the dinosaurs out or not, but I left them in. I checked their water (too late I fear) and the ammonia was very high.
<MUST be 0.0>
I'm kicking myself for not checking it more often :(. I did a %50 water change, removed the carbon from the filter and started treating the tank with Melafix.
<...>
I waited a couple days (this brings us up to yesterday) (treating with Melafix daily according to the directions),
<See, search (the tool's on every page) WWM re this product. It's a placebo at best>
checked the ammonia again, again very high. So I did another %50 water change. The Oranda was more active after every water change, and (he is orange with black fins) his fins would go from grey to black the next morning (following each water change). Other than that he (or she) seems completely normal. The Pearlscale (with the missing eye) floated in a slightly pointed downward way immediately before (I noticed it the night before) and immediately after loosing his eye. I thought it was strange but it didn't worry me as he would do that for 3-4 seconds, then swim seemingly happily. I came home for lunch today and he was pointed slightly down... then swimming normally. I got closer and something has happened to his other eye! The first time he lost an eye it looked completely normal and then just seemed to fall right out, cleanly and completely, leaving an empty socked with the red cord in the center (which then got to be darker with time). Now his eye is purple, and dented in the center :(. I have been watching him like a hawk, looking for any sign of anything and I have seen nothing. I heard that eye loss can be caused by something that causes little holes in the head and down the fish, but I see no holes. I thought about PopEye, but his eyes looked completely normal until each incident. I feel just terrible for letting the ammonia build up like that, and for giving him pointy ornaments. Are they too dangerous for him?
<Yes>
The two fish seem to get along well, I've never seen them quarrel, and they even share food.
<... you shouldn't be feeding if the ammonia is over 1.0 ppm. Read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwestcycling.htm
and the linked files through the Ammonia FAQs link above>
I feed them goldfish flakes and algae wafers (I am planning on switching their diet to real, fresh food/veggies) but I didn't want to change too much when he was sick.
<... the sickness IS the environment. Read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshsystems.htm>
He is swimming, but stops and floats in-between swimming. He is swimming normally, when he floats he points down slightly, but doesn't tip, sink, or rise. I'm pretty sure the other eye is too far gone to save. I have attached the best picture I could get (the black on him is his color, not a sore, and his reflection looks weird but he doesn't have white on him like that, must be the gravel reflecting), plus a picture before he was injured that shows the T-rex. Is it cruel to have him live like this? Will he be ok? Is the Oranda in danger? I don't have a quarantine tank for them (I do have a 2.5 gallon tank that I used to quarantine small things for my tropical tank like fry and ghost shrimp, it has a small in-tank filter, but it just seemed cruel to move him to such a small environment).Help! What do I do?
<Read, understand, re-act...>
I feel so bad, I really hope I didn't cause this to happen to this beautiful fish :'(.I now notice there are little tiny spheres floating in the water, they look like tiny Styrofoam balls, a slight off-white, maybe 5-6 of them, that the Oranda quickly ate. They look like eggs but that doesn't make sense...I see more egg-like things floating around now, another 5-6 that are quickly being eaten by the Oranda...The Pearlscale stretches his mouth open all the way and holds it there for awhile, before resuming normal breathing. He did this when the first eye fell out and now he is doing it again. I assume it is because his eye hurts? The Oranda eye's were always flatter than the Pearlscale's, almost seem a little sunken in (I assumed because of his Oranda growth on his head) but they are even and clear eyes. I'm sorry this email is long and Please advise, I feel so terrible :(-Amanda
<... I'd readminister the Dr. Tim's product, give up on the "Fix"... and keep reading. Bob Fenner>

Hiding Goldfish... 3 gal.... 4/18/11
Hello, I have never had any luck keeping goldfish alive, but find myself in charge of doing such. My family has a 3 gallon tank with filter and 1 small plant along with small rocks at the bottom of the tank.
<... this is a death trap. It won't work. Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/goldfish101art.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
The occupants of the tank include: 1 small snail, 1 fantail (2 inches, not including tail) and 1 feeder goldfish (2 inches, not including tail).
The feeder goldfish has been in our home for 2 months and was rather lazy until we acquired the fantail last week. The fantail has a belly that seems to be growing, while the feeder goldfish has not got a belly. I have noticed that the fantail likes to hide out near the top of the tank corner, between the filter and the air tube. I thought it was getting stuck back there, but when I move the tube, the fish frantically swims away and then swims right back into the same position. Today, both fish have been 'hiding' back there'¦ and only wanting to come out to eat (flakes which I put in the tank about 3 times a day).
Any suggestions as to what could be the problem with the goldfish? Thank you in advance for the time and energy in which is required to read and respond.
Gracie
re: Hiding Goldfish 4/19/11
Much thanks, After separating the goldfish, they both seem to be doing much better! Great website with lots of helpful information!
Gracie
<Gracie, please do continue reading where you were referred. Goldfish are mainly killed outright from environmental issues, the biggest no doubt from being housed in too-small volumes. Your goldfish need more room. Cheers, BobF>
Re: Hiding Goldfish... still not reading... 4/19/11
Hello Bob, thanks for the response. I do have another question for you. Now that the fantail is in his own tank, he is still hiding out behind the filter in the corner. Why does he do this? Does he have a death wish, or is he just lazy? Grace
<The environment... why do you write when you've been directed to read?>

Ill Black Moor 4/13/11
Hi I have a 6year old black moor in a 60 ltr tank with a small panda more and small Ranchu.
<60 litres/15 gallons is much too small for Goldfish.>
The water quality is good ammonia 0 ph 7 and have recently done a water change

But he started with a lump on his side a week ago which has made one side of the body swell last night it burst and white cotton wool like substance is coming from it.
<Finrot combined with a fungal infection. In the UK, a good combination treatment is eSHa 2000, but this will of course only help things heal if the environment is ALSO improved, which isn't going to happen in 60 litres.>
He has also started losing colour on the tips of his tail. He has been eating and still alert. But I don't want him to suffer or pass anything on to are smaller fish.
<Oh, it's not so much a "catchy" disease as the environment is slowly killing the fish. Like many stress factors, it can take weeks, months, even years for a poor quality environment to actually cause obvious symptoms.
But I have no doubt at all that this is the problem here simply because three adult Goldfish would need 120 litres/30 gallons, at absolute minimum.>
Can you shine a light on what he has is it treatable or is it kinder to do the right thing.
<Do read:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/goldfish101art.htm
Your aquarium is killing off your fish, and without improvements, this sick will likely die, as will one or both of the others. Nature doesn't allow humanity to cut corners, and when we try something that can't work, like keeping Goldfish in a 60 litre tank, eventually Nature shows us the folly of our ways.>
Thanks
Nicola
<Hope this helps, Neale.>
Re: Ill Black Moor 4/13/11
Hi Neale
<Nicola,>
So basically your saying the tank is two small
<In a nutshell'¦>
it is a bi orb the largest we could get.
<A very poor aquarium in many ways, and not even remotely suitable for Goldfish.>
The other to fish are very young and only small. I don't understand what you are telling me the water quality is good has he just out grown his environment.
<Could easily be. When length doubles, mass goes up eight-fold, so the amount of waste increases eight-fold, and the amount of oxygen needed goes up eight-fold. This is basic rule of biology, the surface area to volume ratio thing you probably learned in O level or GCSE biology at school. So, even if a fish grows what seems not very much, it could easily be doubling, trebling, or more the amount of waste it produces and the amount of space it needs. Spherical tanks make things even worse because they have a very poor surface area to volume ratio -- the bit at the top open to the air is very small. Rectangular tanks, especially shallow, long ones have the ideal surface area to volume ratio, which is why they've remained the standard for over 100 years. The Bi-Orb is an attractive container for water and coloured lights, but as an aquarium, it's insanely overpriced and really not even remotely useful. At best, you could keep a few Cherry Shrimps and White Cloud Mountain Minnows, but that's it.>
Why will the other two if be endangered as I say they only measure at present about 5cm long.
<Yes, as they grow, they'll need more resources, and eventually they'll be stressed as well. Essentially what happens is your aquarium kills off any excess fish that it cannot provide life support for. Do understand that three 5 cm/2 inch Goldfish would need 80-90 litres or so, and realistically, 120 litres for long-term success.>
Thanks
Nicola
<You're welcome, Neale.>
Re: Ill Black Moor 4/13/11
<Hello. I am the "gate keeper" as it were/is here on WWM (posting, moving about content). I will forward your further comm. to Neale, but would have you put the term: Bi Orb in the search tool here: http://wetwebmedia.com/Googlesearch.htm
and read the many other accounts of this ill-conceived product line posted on WWM. Bob Fenner>
Hi Neale
You have made me feel a cruel keeper. So Aquarium shops only sell bio orbs for the money as they are the type of tank that are in the forefront of shops theses days as homes are not big enough to house large tanks.
But thanks for the info I least I know what it is now. He is not in a good way so have decided to put him to sleep we have read up on the most humane way of doing this. As for the others they are happy at the moment perhaps in 6 years time they wont be.
Nicola
Re: Ill Black moor 4/13/11
Hi Neale
You have made me feel a cruel keeper. So Aquarium shops only sell bio orbs for the money as they are the type of tank that are in the forefront of shops theses days as homes are not big enough to house large tanks. But thanks for the info I least I know what it is now. He is not in a good way so have decided to put him to sleep we have read up on the most humane way of doing this. As for the others they are happy at the moment perhaps in 6 years time they won't be.
Nicola
<Hello Nicola. I understand your frustration. But the simple fact is that Bi Orb tanks just aren't acceptable for Goldfish. It's a shame they're advertised with Goldfish on the box. Yes, you are absolutely correct in saying that Goldfish aren't easy to house in small homes. And yes, if you're limited to 10, 15, or 20 gallons of water, then Goldfish aren't an option, and instead you should be looking at tropical fish, many of which are smaller and easier (and cheaper) to house than Goldfish. While I don't see the point to wasting Â£100 on a Bio Orb unit, you can certainly get a very decent all-in-one rectangular aquarium for around the same price, perhaps less, containing 10-20 gallons of water, and eminently suitable for small tropical fish such as White Cloud Mountain Minnows, Endler Guppies, Neons and small species of Corydoras. Do please read:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_5/volume_5_3/stocking.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwlivestk.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwset-up.htm
Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Ill Black moor
Ahh, thank you Neale. Did not intend to supplant your responses, but to bolster your position, end the Dailies on that note lest you were "gone for the day". Cheers, B

Sick Oranda Goldfish, no reading, env. 3/31/11
Hello Crew,
<Alice>
I have 2 Oranda goldfish, one is sick and one is not.
They are kept in a 7 liter tank,
<... dismal. Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/GldfshTksF.htm
and the linked files above. You're killing these fish. Bob Fenner>
the water is changed fully once a week. In the tank there is a duckweed plant and nothing else apart from gravel. They are both fed about 2 sinking goldfish pellets daily. Nothing else is added to the water. We have had both goldfish alive and well for over a year now and have had no problems so far!
About a month ago, the larger fish developed an illness - his veins were bright red, his fins droopy and his breathing looked short. He wouldn't eat and he just stayed in one place all day! We went to the shop where we bought him and they gave us some medicine (a liquid which was brownish red in colour) but I never found out what specifically was wrong with him or what the medicine was (sadly I live in the Netherlands and cant speak the language)! After 3 days he was fine!
But a few days ago we noticed he was sick again (exactly the same as before) so we put him in another tank and got the same medicine from the fish shop to treat him and the red veins disappeared. But now he just lies on his side and seems to be stuck at the surface of the tank. I tried feeding him some peas but he's not eating anything at all and hasn't for days! So from research online it seems he has a problem with his swim bladder - but if he's not eating anything.. how can he eat the peas which cure it? I am worried he will die of starvation before we can fix his swim bladder problem!
We have another goldfish who lives in the tank with him and he is 100% healthy - he is much smaller though!
Thank you in advance for you help! I hope I have given enough detail for you!
Alice
Re: Sick Oranda Goldfish 3/31/11
That is what I thought but the man in the shop said that it was fine! Do you have any other advice?
<Yes... a larger system... for dilution of wastes, space for movement and growth... Nothing else "will work". BobF>
Re: Sick Oranda Goldfish... still not reading, using WWM 3/31/11
Hello Again,
Upon closer inspection my tank is more like 13L (we guessed before) - would you say this is still too small?
<Please read where you were initially referred to. All these questions/queries are gone over and over. B>
If it is then we will buy a new one as soon as possible - but if my goldfish dies before we manage to get one there is not much point!
Do you have any advice about the health problems my Oranda goldfish is having - is it stress from the small tank size? he is now in another tank on his own which is around the same size as the one he was in before. I have given him some peas but as mentioned previously he is not eating.
His red veins are now back but his problem with swimming looks a bit better.
We were originally advised that this size of tank would be fine, and that we didn't need a filter when we originally bought it, as long as we changed the water regularly. In hindsight this arrangement may only be for people who like the look of fish but don't care if they die or not.. I love my fish and don't want them to die!
Everything on the internet is conflicting and I am not sure what to do!
From
Alice again!

Fish Question, GF, hlth., env... 3/29/11
I have a 16 gallon bow front tank that has been running great.
<So far! The problem with small tanks is things work fine while the fish are small, but they grow, and then you hit a critical point where a small tank can't cope. Two Goldfish really does need 30 gallons. I recommend 20 gallons for the first Goldfish, and at least 10 more for each additional one.>
There are two fantail goldfish in it - and the older one has been in there for over a year. The younger one has been in the for several months. A few days ago my kids wanted to add a snail to the tank. We got it from a reputable store and added it. We also added a few fake plants that day as well. The next morning the older fish was just laying on the bottom and the tail fin had bright red streaks.
<The red streaks are symptoms of Finrot. In short, bacteria invade the fin tissue, and as the bacteria multiply they cause congestion in the blood vessels. Blood cells build up in these blockages, turning them red. Eventually the loss of blood flow causes the fin tissue to die, which is where the rot part of Finrot becomes apparent. Finrot is almost always a result of either fighting (not an issue here) or water quality (almost certainly the issue).>
I did a water change with not much improvement. He continues to lay on the bottom and today is not coming up for food. His tail is more streaked and starting to fray.
<See above.>
I added one dose of Melafix last night after doing another water change.
<Melafix is not reliable as a cure; at best, it's a preventative for use when fish are damaged but before they show symptoms of disease.>
The other fish is just fine and is staying at the side of his companion (when I add food the healthy fish tries to nudge the sick fish to the top to get food).
<Doubt that is what's happening here. Goldfish are schooling fish, yes, but within that school they bicker over dominance. What you're seeing is more likely aggression than anything else.>
The snail is active as well. My little girls love these fish is there anything further I can do?
<Adding the snail as likely the "straw that broke the camel's back" here.
This aquarium was balanced on a knife-edge already, a combination of too many fish and too little water. Adding the snail put just enough extra workload (ammonia, waste, carbon dioxide) on the filter, and the aquarium tipped over towards the bad. Finrot is easy enough to treat, e.g., with an antibiotic or antibacterial medication, but it won't stay away if conditions don't improve.>
Thank you for your help.
Kris
<These fish need both treatment and a bigger world. Do read:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/goldfish101art.htm
Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Fish Question 3/29/11
Thank you for your response.
<Glad to help.>
The goldfish is quite listless now, what is your recommendation for best antibiotic treatment.
<Different brands in different countries. Here in England, I recommend eSHa 2000. But in other countries there are other options. If you're in the US, good options include Maracyn TC, API Furan-2, and Seachem KanaPlex.>
Will it be a problem to add since I added the Melafix?
<Would do a good size water changes first'¦ 50% say.>
Should I remove the snail until I can get a larger tank?
<Not really, except that some medications will stress/kill snails; read instructions before use, and remove snail if instructed to do so.>
Thanks
Kris
<Do understand that medication is not the solution here -- these fish need a bigger world. Cheers, Neale.>

Sick fantail 3/26/11
Dear Team,
<Vera>
My name is Vera and I'm reporting from London.
I have been enjoying your site for months now,. studying and learning so much on the way. I've always loved biology..
One likes to be prepared when a fish gets sick,. but now that its happened it appears I still need some help.
I have 3 fantails in a 60 liter BiOrb tank.
<Ahh, this volume is too small...>
I do realise now that that was silly as it might be too small a tank even though they are small.
2 of them are just over a year old and I got them when they were babies.
They're names are Tiny Rider and Tinchy Stryder
I've just added a new baby. His name is Tinie Tempah) and they have all been getting on fine until a week ago.
I've been checking the water quality and doing 20 percent water changes because of the new fish.
I discovered that T.R and T.S had clamped fins and a cloudiness to them..
<Mmm, TT may have brought summat in... or it could easily be that the addition of more life has deteriorated water quality>
T.R was resting a lot inside the plants.
He's always done that on and off as he is sensitive to a lot of foods and gets swimbladder problems.
For that reason I feed them peas/broccoli/carrot and the occasional treat of brine shrimp and once a week a sinking pellet.
Anyways, back to the sluggish behaviour and cloudiness of fins,. Red veins appeared around the mouth of T.S.
He was also behaving aggressively to his longtime friend T.R and vise versa. T.R doesn't use his tail, it just hangs down like a useless tool.
Tinie Tempah is oblivious to all this and swimming around happily munching on plants.
The aquarium specialist in town advised to use 3 table spoons of Aqualibrium salt and to treat with a product called eSHa 2000.
<Neale Monks, your countryman and our accomplice here is a big fan of their products, this one in particular>
Its a 3 day/dose fungus,finrot and bacteria treatment. I've taken the filter cartridge out but the pump is still on. I was advised to treat all fish.
It's 5 days later and T.S has perked up a lot! His red veins are gone and his fins look a little clearer. Tinie Tempah is still playing and having fun..I'm super happy he didn't get sick.
I've been doing 20 percent water changes because of the friendly bacteria that might have been killed off by the medicine.
<Good... and I'd be testing for ammonia, nitrite...>
Unfortunately Tiny Rider has not perked up at all and was on the bottom of the aquarium, head first all day yesterday. He was so live less that I feared he would die overnight
When he did decide to swim he would have no coordination and just crash,. poor thing. I decided to quarantine him in my old bowl. (25 liter) It has an air pump.
I took some original aquarium water and some new tapwater with tab safe and added some cycle. Most of the salt should be gone.
I've also added a plant so he can hide/rest if he likes. I'm sure he hates the bowl,.i know now how awful they are thanks to helpful articles on WWM.
It will have to do as a temporarily arrangement. The weird thing is that at first he would float!
Later he's at the bottom again and he seems to be resting. He seems a little better today.. not swimming much though and tired and uncoordinated and no appetite.
So my questions are.. His bowl is not cycled..shall I add a carbon filter to the airpump or add a new medication.
What would you suggest?
<That you add some substrate from the old/established system to cycle this bowl>
He's become very skinny and my guess is an internal infection. I hoped the original medicine eSHa 2000 would take care of it but maybe it wasn't strong enough?
<Mmm, given the rapid onset, the list of symptoms, I don't think that the issue here is pathogenic; i.e., not biological disease, but environmental>
Its day 5 now since treatment started..what could I do next? Thank you so much in advance and I do hope to hear from you soon!
Kind regards,.
Vera.
<Again, the simple water testing as mentioned, and really, the purchase of a much larger volume system. Your one year old fish have been, are being "bonsai'ed"... not good for their health, longevity. Bob Fenner>
Re: Sick fantail 3/26/11
Dear Bob,
<Vera, Vera, what has become of you>
Thank you for your swift reply.
Unfortunately, Tiny Rider has travelled to heaven. It literally happened 20 minutes before I received your mail.
<Ahh>
I have learned my lesson. Getting a 3rd fish for my 16 gallon tank was a bad idea. I think TT's immune couldn't handle it as he was always struggling with buoyancy problems, something that's surely very stressful. I've just tested the main tank again and the numbers seem good. Ammonia 0, ph 8, nitrate 75,
<Yow!>
nitrite 0. I could do a water change to bring down the nitrate but I've just given them a halve dose of the medicine eSHa 2000 as a follow up.
TS fins are not cloudy so much and he seems happy but his tail fins are fraying a bit. Tinie tempah is following him around and picking at his fins. I think fin rot is visibly present now. Originally the fins were just cloudy and there was a white tip at the end of his tail. For this reason I've given them an extra halve dose as is suggested in the paperwork with the medicine.
<Ah hon, halving doses of any medicine does no good>
TT is still looking fabulous and young. I hope it stays that way! Shall I do 30%a water change tmrw to get the nitrate down? We are day 5 now and I wonder when I should stop medicating. Day 1-3 was full dose -halve dose-halve dose. Day 4 was a break. Now that the fins are fraying on TS I've done another halve dose today.
Thank you so much for your reply and I'm going to start looking for a nice 40 gallon tank I think.
Kind regards,
Vera Z.
<Ah, good. Cheers, BobF>

Goldfish Problem, env. 3/18/11
One of my goldfish has pop-eye and a white fungus-like growth on his mouth.
Also, the area around his mouth has reddened.

It is a seven year old fish in a mature 55gal tank with two other seven year old goldfish.
<Mmm, trouble here...>
The other two goldfish seem fine.
<The operant word, "seem">
I keep the tank quite clean and perform regular water changes,
<S/b done weekly>
although I do not change the charcoal filters very often. I changed the water 3 days ago, and had not noticed this problem before the change, although it is possible that the problem was existent at that time. I have isolated the affected fish in a hospital tank. I would like to begin treatment of this fish. The research I have done indicates that this is most likely a bacterial (rather than a fungal) issue and that antibiotic food is the best treatment. The fish is eating, so using food antibiotic is an option. Please look at the attached picture and let me know if you agree with the diagnosis and treatment.
<The one fish does show the symptoms you mention... plus petecchia (hemorrhaging) in the fins, missing scales... all pointing to environmental stress...>
Do you recommend food antibiotic or water treatment?
<Mmm, no; "just" improving these fish's world>
Do you have a preferred brand of food antibiotic for goldfish? Should I also treat the water with an antifungal in addition to the antibiotic? Do you have any other suggestions?
Thank You,
Dave Packman
<What your goldfish need is more room, enhanced filtration likely. I would be measuring some aspect of metabolite accumulation; likely nitrate. Do please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshsystems.htm
and the linked files above re aspects of water quality. Bob Fenner>

Re: Goldfish Problem 3/18/11
Thank you for the information. I will be more diligent about changing the water and be sure to change the charcoal filters more often. I already run two tank mounted pump filters and I will also consider a larger tank in order to improve their environment. In the meanwhile - since you do not recommend any medicinal treatment:

Should I (after a thorough tank cleaning and water change) return the affected fish back to the large tank with the others?
<Do be careful re how much water/change you bring about at any given interval. I would only change out a quarter to a third of the water... w/ gravel vacuuming... Again, this is all posted, gone over on WWM>
What should I expect in terms of the timeline of improvement of the pop-eye and fungal growth?
<Might clear in a few weeks given less than 20 ppm NO3 and what this means in terms of other chemical presence>
If I see no improvement after a reasonable time should I consider any medicinal options?
<Not really; no. I am a very "olde timer" in the world of fish pathology... as you'll see by "Googling" my name... and am highly sensitive to folk's impressions, desires to "do something"... constructive in such circumstances. Much more harm usually entails random medication. Again, I would not "do this">
Thank you for your speedy reply, WetWebMedia is a great resource!
Dave
<Thank you for your kind words. BobF>

Scale lost, Goldfish, Environment 3/2/11
Hi. I can't seem to find an answer anywhere to this and was hoping you could help. I have an Oranda goldfish who is about 5 inches long now. He lives in a 10 Gallon tank with a Marineland filter and bubble stone.
<Far too small a tank for this fish, this is the cause of all your problems. See here for more
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/goldfish101art.htm .>
There are two decorations in the bottom of the tank. He recently changed almost all black, when I got him about 3 months ago he was gold with black tips on his fins. He is eating fine. About a week ago I noticed what looked like true fungus on his side. It just covered one scale. For 5 days I was treating him with Sentry Maracyn, and after talking with my co-workers (I work at PetSmart) I got him API Fungus Cure power that I started him on today when I moved him to a new identical tank as the one mentioned above.
<If it was not cycled you have added to his problems.>
I noticed, today after being in the new tank with the API Fungus Cure for a few hours, that his scale has fallen out and is dangling but a silver (shiny like silver too) thread. Where the scale used to be it is red, but
don't seem to be bleeding. What is worrying me is that the scale is just hanging there with the redness where the scale used to be, I love this big fish, I enjoy watching him swim around.
~Susan
<The only long term solution here is a larger tank, anything else is putting a band-aid on a gunshot wound. Everything you are seeing here is environmental in it's root cause.>
<Chris>

Red spot with white lumps--spreading rapidly 2/20/11
Dear WWM Crew,
<Kat>
Yesterday afternoon a blood red spot appeared on our 4 year old goldfish's (fishy) dorsal fin. By the time last night came around white lumps were appearing on the red spot. Now this morning it appears the white lumps are spreading onto his back.
<Mmm... such a rapid onset is unusual... What re this system? Filtration, size, decor... do you have appreciable Nitrate?>
I've searched for answers, but don't want to start treating him willy nilly. I've attempted to take pictures of the spot, they are quite blurry.
Thank you for any guidance.
Katrina
<Respond. Bob Fenner>

Re: Red spot with white lumps--spreading rapidly, GF env. dis. 2/21/11
There are only rocks in the bottom, of which he cleans daily. He removes all plants (plucking them up) and decor, knocks it over, buries them, etc. until we remove it from the tank. I believe his tank is too small for his size, so we have purchased a larger tank today for him. He has a 10 gallon tank now
<Much too small... this is the "cause" of the trouble here. Read:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/GldfshTksF.htm
and the linked files above and re GF env. dis.. B>
and he is the only fish, but quite large now. The carbon filter is for a 20-30 gallon tank the smaller filter was not keeping it clean and he was not as active.
I did a 40% water change last Thursday and treated it with Nitroban. I'm not very knowledgeable about ph I'm sorry. I did look at the ph kits in the store, but was really overwhelmed about which one to get.
I apologize in advance for my ignorance.
Katrina
Re: Red spot with white lumps--spreading rapidly 2/21/11
Thank you for your response. We purchased a 20 gallon tank for him today.
<Ah, better.... but how large is this comet? It will/would need a larger volume still. B>

Something's Fishy, GF NH3/NH4OH and Salt/NaCl exposure... 2/8/11
Hello hope everyone is well.
<Fair to... thank you>
I stumbled upon your site via Google while I was attempting a rescue mission. I've been reading and cautiously following relevant advice give through your FAQ pages and I'm ha[[y to say that everything thus far have gone relatively smooth. However, today I'm not so sure...something suspicious is amiss...so here I am asking for individual advice.
Please bear with me, I'm still new at this....
Stats- 3 fancy GF (about 3-5 inches not including tail) in a 20 gal. tank with gravel and plants only.
<Mmm, actually likely overcrowded metabolically>
2 HOB filters- no heater or air stones (filters is for 10 gal. and 20 gal. tanks)
Temp. 74 F
Ammonia was .50 ppm (yikes)
<Indeed>
this morning when I tested (after which I did a 50% water change)
Nitrate .5ppm
Nitrite 0ppm
They've been in the same tank for close to 7 months now. They've grown like weeds and have not shown any signs of health issues. I do know that the tank is a bit small and they are growing rapidly and with spring approaching which means the males (if I have any) will be getting a bit frisky so they need their space.
<Are these "really" fancy goldfish? Not frisky at any size they can/will grow to here>
So I recently purchased and set up a 55 gal. tank and it is cycling as we speak.
<Ahh, good!>
( It's been 6 weeks with a handful of water changes and a pitch of food every few days, but ammonia is still around .75ppm and the tank doesn't show any signs of bacteria growing).
<Do move some of the plants and water from the existing system to here>
Realizing that I am not completely "out of the woods" just because they haven't been showing any signs of distress and look very healthy because of their growing size and volume in which they live I've been anxiously awaiting the end of the big tank's cycle. About four days ago while I was doing a routine examination of the fish I notice that on of them have small spots on her tail fins. I immediately thought Ich and did a water change. I waited until today, my day off, to do another water change. (I usually do a 35-50% water change every 5 days to combat the ammonia) I added roughly 5 tb.s of salt and am planning to stick the heater in there and start raising the temperature.
<I'd hold off. Doubtful that this is the protozoan Ich... where would it come from after all these months?>
I dissolved the salt before adding it with some treated water. About 10 minutes after I closed the lid another one of my fish started having these, for like of better terms, seizures. He'd swim then hit the glass and convulse violently then swim a bit then do it again.
<... the salt>
From what I've read this could mean a variety of things, but without visual evidence I don't know what to do. I took about 1 1/2 gal. of water out and added the same amount back in to dilute the salt if that's what's causing it but I'm leery about doing anything else.
<Good>
Their eyes are clear, their fins are raised, gills are not red, breathing is not rapid, scales are shiny, and their appetites are healthy with the exception that the don't seem to be as excited to see me as usual. They would swim to the front of the aquarium, they're not acting as ravenous as usual.
Whew! Okay, so that's the back story so far, let me list my specific question so that it's easier...
Am I missing something in the cycling process of the 55 gal.? Why is it not cycle and ammonia so high?
<These things sometimes take more time... please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwestcycling.htm
to introduce, reinforce ideas re measures to spur on cycling>
The white spots on one of the fish does not look like granulated sugar (like
the spots described for Ich), but they are quite small- could it be fungus?
<Mmm, doubtful... most likely "just" body slime/mucus accumulation due to irritation... the ammonia et al.>
With time in mind, how can I diagnose the symptoms correctly? Salt and Heat
method for Ich first and then more wide spectrum medication if it fails?
<Mmm, not really. Just get the new tank up and going. Cut feeding way back if any detectable ammonia is present>
Without any outward visual symptoms is there any other way to diagnose the seizures/convulsions/shaking?
Should I wait to add the heater?
<I'd add, set to the low seventies F>
That's all so far, I'd like to thank you ahead for your advice.
The site is great and everyone here is awesome.
Truc
<Thank you, Bob Fenner>
Re: Something's Fishy 2/8/11
Hello Mr. Fenner,
<Howdy Truc>
Thank you for your response. I'm glad to hear it might not be as severe as I had thought. I will admit that lately I've been a little heavy handed with the food. I'll definitely cut back to once every other day. When I first set up the 55gal. I added about 10 gal. of the water from the older aquarium with about two cups of gravel and some filter media that's also from the older aquarium. I let it run that way for a couple of weeks taking out and pouring in old water from the water changes from the 20 gal. after awhile there's a smell of mildew and a white slimy film on the hoods, filter and glass around the filter. I wiped it tested the water (Ammonia .80ppm) did 50% water change with treated water and never added old aquarium water to it again. Now what I would do is whenever I get ready to throw out an old sponge I'd just toss it into the new tank. I don't smell the mildew anymore, but I still see the white/opaque slime. What do you think that could be?
<Mix of Mycophyta/fungus, Protists...>
Oh, and to answer your question...they're fancy, but not the delicate ones. a Ryukin, a Fantail, and an Oranda (the Oranda has a small Wen (sp?) and it's actually the most lively in there).

P.S
Why do they shake like that with too much salt? That's very interesting...
<Perhaps the sodium is bridging parts of their nervous system. BobF>
Re: Something's Fishy -- 02/10/11
Hello Mr. Fenner,
<Mr. Lam>
I think you were onto something be cause the white dots on my goldfish have almost completely diminished over night. Also, while reading the link you sent me I realized that since it's been chilly here the temperatures in the have fluctuated within in the six ties-seventies range. I suppose suppose that's good for the fish, but is a clue to why the 55 gal. is taking so long to cycle. So, I think that I'm going to hook the heater up and keep it at a steady 77Â° F. Your thoughts?
<Should improve, speed up the process>
One last question- the tank that the fish are in have always have adequate oxygen flow grom the two HOB filters, the water fall effect stirs up the water very well and I've always seen small air bubbles throughout the tank. From time to time would see the bubbles on the fish. They will have them on their scales, fins, their mouths ect...could this be harmful?
<Not likely, no. Many very fine bubbles can be trouble... but these/conditions are rare in freshwater aquariums>
(the bubbles are tiny and you'd really have to examine closely to see them)
Welp! Thank you so much again for your advice!
Truc
<A pleasure to share. BobF>
Re: Something's Fishy -- 02/10/11
Thank you for the speedy response. I'm going keep reading. By the way, it's Ms. Truc :), but please call me Truc.
<Ahh, apologies Truc. BobF>

Re: Something's Fishy 2/10/11
Hi there Mr. Fenner,
<Just Bob please Truc>
No questions this time. I just took a couple of pictures and wanted to send them in for you to check out. They're not amazing by any means, but I'm a proud parent. They're mostly of the Oranda because the others weren't going to stay still even if I threatened them with a frying pan :).
Truc
<They look fine to me. BobF>

Sick Goldfish! 1/28/11
Hello WWM Crew Member,
<Hello Claire,>
Our 2-year old Fantail goldfish, Goldie, has had a number of problems lately, and we're hoping for some expert help in getting her rehabilitated. It all started when we introduced a new Calico goldfish into the tank. The Calico started nipping at Goldie's tail, and we subsequently returned it to the pet store so as not to cause Goldie anymore harm, but ever since then, she hasn't been herself, and has developed a whole host of ailments.

It's just her in a 10-gallon tank,
<Part of your problem here. Goldfish really do need more space. I'd say 30 gallons minimum for two specimens. Keeping one isn't recommended, though I guess a singleton might survive -- albeit unhappily -- in 20 gallons or so.>
and her water quality appears to be fine (no chlorine or nitrate/nitrites, good pH, although the water is very hard). We've never had any health problems with her, so in trying to treat her, I think we may have actually made her worse. Here's the various problems she's having and the related treatments we've used:
We started a 7-day Melafix treatment to cure some reddish scales and what appeared to be some missing scales,
<Melafix is largely useless.>
thinking it was a skin problem, and at first she seemed to have more energy and looked to be doing better, but then on the 2nd or 3rd day of the treatment, a white fuzzy patch (fungus we're guessing?) started to develop over the area that was previously red. We also noticed that the tip of her tail started to split and then the tip of it went missing. Additionally, we noticed tiny holes in her bottom fins (although I didn't see them until I looked really closely, so they may have been there already).
<These symptoms are Finrot.>
After talking to our local pet store, we were told to discontinue the Melafix (we had been using it for 4 days at this point), and to start a series of water changes and salt dips. We did a 25% water change the first day, and a salt dip with a ratio of 1 gallon water : 1 1/2 tsp. aquarium salt for half an hour. We repeated this for 3 more days, but with only 10% water changes. We were adding Stress Coat to the tank at each water change, but we seriously screwed up and used the amount of Stress Coat for a whole tank instead of just the 10%/25% amount we should have been using to match the water changes (we didn't know to reduce the amount!)
<'¦>
Since her fungus seemed to be getting better, and our pet store only told us to do the salt dip for 3 days, we did not do a salt dip last night. While her fungus is still shrinking, the area around the edges that it used to be are now black, and she was extremely lethargic today; she barely moved from the bottom of the tank! Could it be due to the high ratio of Stress Coat?
<Unlikely, but Stress Coat isn't a treatment. It's rather like drinking orange juice when you have a cold -- the vitamin C is useful, but the damage is already done, so vitamin C won't make you better any faster.>
We did another 25% water change today to try and dilute the Stress Coat concentration, and she's less lethargic for the time being, but I'm still unclear on how much longer (if at all) to continue the salt dips and water changes. Should we keep them going until all signs of fungus/red scales/black fins/torn/holy fins disappear, or should we stop sometime sooner? Should we be doing something else altogether?
Any insight you have would really help.
Thanks!
Claire
<Do buy a reliable combination anti-Finrot/anti-Fungus medication, e.g., Seachem Paraguard in the US or eSHa 2000 in Europe. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Sick Goldfish! 1/28/11
Thanks, Neale! So just to clarify, should I be stopping the salt dips altogether and going with the anti-fungal/anti-fin rot treatment *instead*?
<Correct.>
Or is this *in addition* to the salt dips?
<These are pointless.>
Oh, and if the latter, should we be using aquarium salt in the main aquarium as well (we usually use a small amount of salt in her main aquarium just as an overall stress reducer/tonic)?
<No need, and used without reason, can cause harm. Do read:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/SaltUseFWArtNeale.htm
>
And thanks for the advice about getting her a friend. That was our hope with the Calico, but it didn't turn out too well. If/when she's all healed up (fingers crossed!), we're hoping to try again.
<Correct. Best to keep two of the same breed/variety. If possible, avoid males (in springtime they have obvious tubercles on their heads).>
And you think at least a 30-gallon tank for 2 goldfish?
<Yep. A mature Fantail 2-3 years old will have a body length of about 20 cm/8 inches. That's the size of a large soup bowl. Take two of them, and place against the side of a 10 gallon tank. Does that look roomy and spacious? Nope. Goldfish are big fish, and need to be homed with that in mind. A 30 gallon tank is a perfect size for 2, maybe 3 specimens if you ensure good filtration and lots of water changes.>
Our pet store had said a 10-gallon would be fine for 2.
<Idiot.>
Thanks, again! Cheers to you, too!
Claire
<Glad to help, and have a good weekend. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Sick Goldfish! 1/29/11
Oh my, I'm so sorry to bother you again, but now we've had yet another major issue! My sister came home to find poor Goldie stuck to the filter intake tube. I've heard this can happen (to sick fish especially)
<Put more accurately, when fish become weak or moribund, they can't swim away from the filter current.>
but the poor thing took quite a beating. She's missing several scales on the area where she was stuck to the tube, and she must be seriously injured because now her little body is stuck in a U-shape and she can't even swim straight. Is there any hope for her? Anything we can do to help her heal?
<As stated before, you need to treat for Finrot/Fungus with a reliable medication, and of course ensure overall environmental conditions are sound. If Goldie can recover, she will. Cheers, Neale.>

Lumpy Larry :( Poor care 1/26/11
I have a comet goldfish that I bought 5 months ago from Wal-Mart (I know probably not the BEST place to get a fish). Anyway, "Larry" has been doing great, in fact he is the lone survivor of our original fish purchase. He is about 4 or 5 inches long, and in a 10 gallon aquarium.
<Trouble... Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshsystems.htm
and the linked files above>
I do a partial water change every 2 weeks, and I try to a full water change at least once a month.
<Not advised...>
Recently, after I added 2 new fish to the tank
<... this volume is too small for Lar by itself>
(a fantail-about 1 1/2 in. long, and an algae eater-about 2 in. long) I noticed that some of Larry's scales were sticking out on one side and the skin underneath looked kind of yellowish.
<Environmental>
Today I noticed that his other side is bulging a little as well. I have read about dropsy and constipation, but I am not sure which of these he could be suffering from.
<Env.>
I treated the water in the aquarium with aquarium salt
<...>
(the box said it was safe for the other fish in the aquarium too), and I added some "Quick Cure-Fast relief from Ick and protozoan parasites"
<Toxic... and not a parasite at work here>
to the water as well (in case a parasite was causing the swelling). Should I isolate Larry from his tank mates, and is there anything I can do to help him? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
PS- I have included some pictures of Larry's lumps
<Read the above where you've been directed. If not clear to you, please write back. Bob Fenner>

Re: Lumpy Larry :( 1/26/11
Thanks! I will get Larry his own tank.
<Real good>
I asked the guy at the Wal-Mart if it was healthy for me to put the 2 new fish in with Larry (told him the size of the tank) and he said yes.
<... make sure and not ask re your health issues...>
Now I know not to listen to those guys anymore! Thanks again.
<Welcome! BobF>

Oranda w/split lip 1/24/11
Hello WWM Crew, I thank you in advance for your wonderful web site. I have a question re: my Oranda buddy Sherbert. I have him and his companion (Lady Ga Ga) in a 20 gal (long) tank.
<Mmm, oh! I see you know these fish need more room>
Waiting on a 55gal to cycle to move them to their new home. Tank is fine no problems. The issue is that I noticed last night Sherberts top (lip) is cut into, the only culprit I can deduce was a Whelk shell I had in th tank and PROMPTLY removed after th fact. I feel so badly, I felt th shell to make sure it wasn't sharp, but I'm sure this is what caused this. I have no other substrata in the tank, except a clump of live water grass (can't recall th name) they enjoy playing in. Please advise as to any medication or treatment I should follow through with. I hate I put my little buddy in harms way with that stupid shell. I feel real bad and want to see him live.
Thank you for your time.
Laura

Re: Oranda w/split lip 1/24/11
Thank u so much Bob, I really appreciate your response. I find the web site to be a wonderful resource and the effort you guys put forth is great. I did put a dose of Melafix in, just as a precautionary measure. The cut is looking better and Sherbert is active and eating. I have found so much useful info in this site, thank you all again. Laura
<Thank you for your kind words Laura. BobF>
Re: Oranda w/split lip 1/27/11
Hey Bob,
Just a quick up date on Sherbert. He died today, I feel horrible.
<Be absolved... you did what you thought was best>
I wish there was more I could have done. I noticed last night he was not eating and lifeless. His mouth however, looked as though it was healing some what.
Any ideas for future reference? Thank you so much for your time.
Laura
<I do suspect some sort of "post-traumatic stress disorder"... I have an olde Black Moor that scratched his eyes badly and goes through stints of not eating... I suspect s/he will perish in time similarly, from PTSD. BobF>
Re: Oranda w/split lip 1/27/11
Thank you again Bob,
I'm rather new to the realm of fish husbandry. It was a pretty serious wound, but looked as though it had begun to heal within a couple of days.
He just kind of isolated himself away from the other fish and deteriorated.
Thank you again for your reply. I will be keeping up with the latest via the web site.
Laura
<Thank you Laura. BobF>

What's wrong with my fish? GF, env. 1/8/11
I have a white Ranchu who is almost 2 years old. She has been doing fine the whole time. She shares a 10 gallon tank with 3 other goldfish
<... this is the issue/problem>
( I know its small but there haven't been any problems in 2 years until now). The other fish are completely fine. There is a male in the tank who recently matured and is bigger than the others and pushes the Ranchu around a bit since she is the oldest female ( I don't know if that is relevant or not). She developed a red spot on one of her sides and a couple days later there was some red on her other side as well. I did frequent water changes and the red spots have mostly gone away over the past week but now it looks sort of furry. She doesn't have any other furriness except for where the red spots previously were. There is a very small hole in one of her side fins and I'm not sure where it came from but it doesn't seem to bother her.
She is still active and her breathing seems fine but its been over a week since she last ate. What can I do to help?
<Read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshsystems.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

septicemia/sight impairment in fancy goldfish 11/30/10
Hello! Thank you in advance for taking time to help me with this.
<Am glad to offer my assistance>
I have a 13 year old fancy goldfish named Biggie Smalls (he started out as Smalls and got much bigger). He lives by himself in a 15 gallon tank
<Mmm... trouble>
with a lot of aeration, filtration and plenty of his fave foods, oranges, spinach and peas among them. Just recently we thought for sure Biggie Smalls was leaving us because he got a NASTY infection of what I think might be hemorrhagic septicemia (pix below).

The pictures I have here are now after doctoring him for three days
<Doctoring... with what, how?>
- his pure white color is starting to return but he had been VERY bloody all over (like his tail in these pictures), wasn't eating and was facing straight down in a corner. He had stringy filaments coming off of him and his eyes got cloudy. I used Maracyn-2, salt and Cycle when doing frequent water changes and he seems to be coming around, wants to eat, is lightening in redness. He does seem to be having some problems seeing though. Quick questions: From what you see in these pix, do you think it is hemorrhagic
septicemia and can it affect their sight or cause blindness?
<Most to very likely the root problem here is environmental... toxic water conditions poisoning your goldfish>
Should the cloudiness in his eyes be going away if he recovers completely?
<Yes>
And...if (and I hope it's not true) his sight is impaired, is there anything to consider when feeding a fish that can't see?
<Shallower water depth, constancy in feeding time, location>
Or will their other senses help them know where the food is?
<Very likely so, yes>
Is floating food better than sinking in that case?
<About the same; but it should be discrete... Pellets that hold together. I feed my fancies almost exclusively on Spectrum.>
Sorry, kind of went nuts with questions at the end! Thank you again for your help.
Tammy
<Something, in addition to this fish being in too small a volume of water (needs about twice this 15) has conspired to lower its immunity/resistance.
Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshsystems.htm
and here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/GldfshTksF.htm
Bob Fenner>

What's wrong with my fish? GF, env. 1/8/11
I have a white Ranchu who is almost 2 years old. She has been doing fine the whole time. She shares a 10 gallon tank with 3 other goldfish
<... this is the issue/problem>
( I know its small but there haven't been any problems in 2 years until now). The other fish are completely fine. There is a male in the tank who recently matured and is bigger than the others and pushes the Ranchu around a bit since she is the oldest female ( I don't know if that is relevant or not). She developed a red spot on one of her sides and a couple days later there was some red on her other side as well. I did frequent water changes and the red spots have mostly gone away over the past week but now it looks sort of furry. She doesn't have any other furriness except for where the red spots previously were. There is a very small hole in one of her side fins and I'm not sure where it came from but it doesn't seem to bother her.
She is still active and her breathing seems fine but its been over a week since she last ate. What can I do to help?
<Read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshsystems.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

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