Baby RES Turtles, shell colour concern 7/20/11
Hi WWM Crew,
<Hi, Norma, Sue here with you.>
I have 2 RES turtles I purchased for my kids from someone on the beach about 4 months ago without knowing just how much of a pain in the butt it would be to set up the proper semi-aquatic habitat for them, money wise that is.
<Well, good for you that you at least committed to getting them what they needed after you found out!>
So I've searched the web and slowly purchased almost everything I need for them to be in a healthy and happy home, including a heat/uvb lamp and basking area. Do you think I should get a red light for at night?
<No light needed at all at night; the dark is just fine! A night time heat lamp (red, black or any other color for that matter) may be helpful for other types of reptiles, but it's not necessary for aquatic turtles. The heat lamp is intended for their daytime, placed directly above their basking spot so that it heats them up while they're out of the water basking (basking temperature should be in the 88-90 degree range). >
I have noticed their shells are changing colors and I think they are shedding their shells because I do notice they have gotten bigger over the last few months. My problem is that I just can't tell if that's what it is. They eat lettuce occasionally, but mostly they like Zoo Med Aquatic Turtle food (micro sized pellets) which I've been feeding them 2-3 times a day because they are babies.
<Nope; the shell shedding has nothing to do with not giving them a night time heat light. The 2-3 times a day feedings is the reason they're shedding; the shedding is just an 'outgrowth' of them 'growing' '¦ sorry, couldn't resist that bad pun!>
<Turtles do grow fastest when they're little like that, but you do want to prevent excessively fast growth as that can lead to shell deformities and other health problems. Contrary to what you might read on 'other' websites about how often to feed baby turtles, unless they're literally brand new hatchlings, you should only be feeding them one time, only every other day, and no more than they can eat in 5-10 minutes, especially when the protein content is a higher percentage as it is with the Zoo Med micro pellets. Over-feeding is one of the most common mistakes people make with turtles. I'd also switch them to the growth formula. Just soften the pellets in water first to make it easier for them to nibble at it. Alternatively you can give them ReptoMin sticks which most turtles seem to love, or Koi pellets (KayTee brand even makes a mini Koi pellet).>
<Another thing that can contribute to a faster growth rate is when their water is kept too warm. Again, contrary to what you may read on most other websites, even when they're small, their water temperature should still be kept in the cooler range, around 70 degrees F.>
I had them in a 20 gal. tank until about 3wks ago when I moved to N.Y. from Cali. where I accidently left the tank. So I set them up in a plastic drawer about 5 or so gallons deep with a filter, rocks, a fake log for basking and a 75watt uvb light. They bask ALL the time and always eat.
<I can tell you've done your research and everything sounds great except the 'always eating' part! Though the fact that they have a good appetite IS great, and a sign that they're healthy!>
I have enclosed some pictures of them. I also haven't seen any shell pieces falling off, just a lot of discoloration.
<By discoloration, do you mean the new growth that is coming in is a lighter green? If so, that's a perfectly normal color. Also, while they're still in the shedding process, you may notice that their shells temporarily appear a bit duller in color until they're all done shedding, and the new shell underneath is completely exposed. As long as the newer shell that's coming in looks fine, then this is all normal.>
I'm so confused, I know they can live more than 30 yrs and I really like that idea and we love the lil buggers
<They are pretty irresistible, aren't they?!>
so any help and/or advice would make my day!
<The main items are a good diet, don't overfeed, cool clean water and warm, dry basking spot with UVB; most of which you already have covered!>
<If there's one additional pointer I could offer you, it would be re: the water quality. You mentioned you have a filter which is great. Just don't let that lull you into a false sense of security. You'll still need to do frequent water changes even with a good quality filter, especially as they start to grow bigger. Also try to net up any debris you see right away; don't allow it to collect between water changes. Here is a link below to a good article on our website about general care. It sounds like you've got most of the basics covered, but look this over to see if there is anything else you might need to tweak:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm >
Thank you ~Norma
<You're welcome, Norma! Good luck with them. Let me know if there's something I missed in the photos regarding your concern over the discoloration.>

Re: re: Baby RES Turtles 7/23/11
Thank you Sue for the quick response.
<You're welcome, Norma.>
The link to the article you suggested was really awesome and helped put my mind at ease as far as their habitat I have set up for them.
<Yes, it can be pretty overwhelming when you start out, especially with all the information that's out there, and when so much of it is contradictory!>
After reading the article, (I really wish I found WWM when I first got my turtles) I decided their water needed changing. I usually set the new water up a little on the cool side of warm (if that makes any sense). I don't have a thermometer so I use my wrist to check the temp. Also their basking area is a log they can go under to get in the shade.
<If the log is hollow, keep an eye on this and any other decor that they could potentially become trapped in or under, especially as they start to grow. Turtles can actually drown if they land up getting trapped under water!>
I think I will get a thermo. to be sure it's not too warm anyways.
<It's really not a bad idea. Most sell for under $10. I actually use 2 -- one in the water and one under the heat and UVB lamps. >
<In particular, with smaller enclosures like the one you have, temperatures, especially water temperatures, can often fluctuate several degrees during the day even if the air temperature in your room is kept in the 68-70 degree range. Heat lamps heat up not only the land inside the enclosure, but can also heat up the water several degrees throughout the day. Even filters can make water temperatures rise a couple of degrees. The less water (and the less deep the water) is in your set-up, the more it will be susceptible to temperature fluctuations. The temperature above the basking area will also continue to rise throughout the day, though it's usually more stable and predictable than the water temperature.>
So as I changed the water I let the turtles just dry off for a while in the sun and I saw one of their shell parts (forgetting the name) peeling up a little! So I'm definitely sure it's shedding that I see now.
<Yes, and I realized I never mentioned this in my first email. The more 'normal' the shedding is, the less noticeable the peeling layers will be. They should be paper thin. And you often don't notice it as much until you take them out of the water. From what you've described, though in this and your other email, it's more than likely the shedding with your turtles is just normal shedding. And you'll always notice their shells dulling in color while it's happening. >
<Having said that, there's also a fine line between fast but normal growth and normal shedding; and growing too fast and excessive shedding. And usually shedding does start out normal before it becomes abnormal. That's why I wanted to alert you about cutting back on the feedings and keeping the water clean and on the cooler side before it does become abnormal!>
Yes, their shells were getting lighter spots all over and their designs are harder to see because of dulling.
<As above, this is normal.>
How long will it take to shed completely I wonder now?
<Usually several weeks, but certain factors can influence it like a turtle's age, their individual growth rate, environmental conditions, etc.>
As far as the feeding, omg thank you! I didn't even realize I was doing something wrong. I'm so happy I found out I was over feeding them and now I know what else is good for them to eat.
<It's a very common mistake people make so don't worry. And the important thing is you found out before any ill effects.>
We want happy and healthy turtles :-)
<It sounds like you do so far!>
Your web site is the bomb! It has sooooo much good information. Thank you Sue and WWM for helping! Have a great day! Turtle love!!
<Thanks, Norma! It makes us happy when we know we've helped. Don't hesitate to write again if you have any more questions or concerns. We want you to have happy and healthy turtles, too! - Sue>
~Norma

Re: re: Baby RES Turtles 7/23/11
Thank you Sue for the quick response.
<You're welcome, Norma.>
The link to the article you suggested was really awesome and helped put my mind at ease as far as their habitat I have set up for them.
<Yes, it can be pretty overwhelming when you start out, especially with all the information that's out there, and when so much of it is contradictory!>
After reading the article, (I really wish I found WWM when I first got my turtles) I decided their water needed changing. I usually set the new water up a little on the cool side of warm (if that makes any sense). I don't have a thermometer so I use my wrist to check the temp. Also their basking area is a log they can go under to get in the shade.
<If the log is hollow, keep an eye on this and any other decor that they could potentially become trapped in or under, especially as they start to grow. Turtles can actually drown if they land up getting trapped under water!>
I think I will get a thermo. to be sure it's not too warm anyways.
<It's really not a bad idea. Most sell for under $10. I actually use 2 -- one in the water and one under the heat and UVB lamps. >
<In particular, with smaller enclosures like the one you have, temperatures, especially water temperatures, can often fluctuate several degrees during the day even if the air temperature in your room is kept in the 68-70 degree range. Heat lamps heat up not only the land inside the enclosure, but can also heat up the water several degrees throughout the day. Even filters can make water temperatures rise a couple of degrees. The less water (and the less deep the water) is in your set-up, the more it will be susceptible to temperature fluctuations. The temperature above the basking area will also continue to rise throughout the day, though it's usually more stable and predictable than the water temperature.>
So as I changed the water I let the turtles just dry off for a while in the sun and I saw one of their shell parts (forgetting the name) peeling up a little! So I'm definitely sure it's shedding that I see now.
<Yes, and I realized I never mentioned this in my first email. The more 'normal' the shedding is, the less noticeable the peeling layers will be. They should be paper thin. And you often don't notice it as much until you take them out of the water. From what you've described, though in this and your other email, it's more than likely the shedding with your turtles is just normal shedding. And you'll always notice their shells dulling in color while it's happening. >
<Having said that, there's also a fine line between fast but normal growth and normal shedding; and growing too fast and excessive shedding. And usually shedding does start out normal before it becomes abnormal. That's why I wanted to alert you about cutting back on the feedings and keeping the water clean and on the cooler side before it does become abnormal!>
Yes, their shells were getting lighter spots all over and their designs are harder to see because of dulling.
<As above, this is normal.>
How long will it take to shed completely I wonder now?
<Usually several weeks, but certain factors can influence it like a turtle's age, their individual growth rate, environmental conditions, etc.>
As far as the feeding, omg thank you! I didn't even realize I was doing something wrong. I'm so happy I found out I was over feeding them and now I know what else is good for them to eat.
<It's a very common mistake people make so don't worry. And the important thing is you found out before any ill effects.>
We want happy and healthy turtles :-)
<It sounds like you do so far!>
Your web site is the bomb! It has sooooo much good information. Thank you Sue and WWM for helping! Have a great day! Turtle love!!
<Thanks, Norma! It makes us happy when we know we've helped. Don't hesitate to write again if you have any more questions or concerns. We want you to have happy and healthy turtles, too! - Sue>
~Norma

I hope you are still answering questions :) 7/2/11
Hi,
<Hiya - Darrel here>
I'm not sure if you guys still answer questions on your website since the latest one was from 2010
<We answer questions every day '¦ so maybe the topic you searched for was a bit stale>
-- but I'm desperate enough to try anyway.
<Desperate for an answer '¦ and you got me '¦ talk about ironic>
About a year and a half ago my fiancée and I rescued a red eared slider from a friend of ours who (with the best intentions) bought a baby slider and had no idea whatsoever about caring for them.
<I hate when people do that>
She had him in her 10 gallon fish tank with no basking platform, no heat lamp, and no UVA or UVB light. She had had him for about 6 to 7 months and he was still the size of a half dollar and his shell was soft and gray. He had gone into hibernation and very rarely moved.
<What he was going into was death, not hibernation>
We took him home and set him up in his own tank with a platform and lamps and he grew amazingly fast.
<Thank you!!>
Now his shell is about 5 to 6 inches from head to tail and developed into a healthy dark green with yellow and light green between the scutes, although it has always been a bit deformed from the months of living in the fish tank.
<Still -- WAY better than dead>
However, in the last month we have noticed that he had developed odd white spots in his shell. They are not fuzzy or slimy, nor are they secreting puss of any kind. They look very dry and brittle. We bought high calcium food sticks to supplement his diet (we normally feed him ReptoMin floating food sticks,
<A perfectly balanced whole diet>
crickets, mealworms,
<Too high in fat and low in nutritional value>
and rosy feeder fish).
<Perfect transport device for parasites. Stop the last two immediately, please>
We also added a calcium block to the water.
<In order for him to get enough calcium via drinking water, you'd have to encase him in a soup about as thick as drywall. Forget the block. If he needs more calcium, grind up & dust small pieces of beef or chicken liver with ordinary calcium tabs from your local pharmacy or health food store>
About a week ago, we noticed that the white spots on his shell were getting worse, not better. His scutes have started falling off, but it doesn't look at all like natural, normal shedding for growth. Wherever the scutes fall off, the shell seems almost to have a deep gouge and a white spot develops. The scutes are falling off, but there is no new shell growth underneath. The white spots almost look like they could be bone, but he doesn't act any differently.
<Yes, the scutes are dying and the remainder is scarred bone-like tissue.>
He still eats and begs for food (if anything he eats more), he still swims all the time, and he still basks regularly. I am very worried about his shell though.
<He needs a veterinarian>
Also, the skin on his neck and forelegs closest to his shell has become very light. It has always been a lighter shade of green than his head, but now it is almost white, and it is a sickly color. We were told that he probably has shell rot, but it seems pretty serious and I don't know what to do. If it is shell rot, I don't know how to treat it, and if it's not shell rot I have no clue what else it could be. Please help me and let me know what I need to do.
<Here is a link to basic treatment. If you read the ENTIRE article and follow ALL the instructions (which involves keeping him warm and dry for a few weeks) you can relieve the symptoms. Ultimately though, the typical cause of scute loss is systemic and we can't treat it from the outside.>
As far as I know there are no vets in my area that treat or see reptiles other than iguanas.
< A veterinarian that can treat iguanas can treat a Red Eared Slider. Ask your Vet for calcium and vitamin injection and a 4 week course of oral Baytril. Dosages are available online>
I am at a loss. The pictures attached are not the best, but he is not a very social guy.
<Neither am I - and I've had a much easier life than he has>
He loves when I feed him sticks, that's as far as his interaction goes. He refuses to be held.
<I'm not crazy about being picked up & held, either>
:) Thank you for your time and consideration.
<No problem - it's what we're here for. That and the free food!!>
<read this completely:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/treating%20RES%20Dis%20DarrelB.htm >

re: I hope you are still answering questions, chel. 7/3/2011
Thank you so much for the help and advice.
<No Charge!>
I very much appreciate it. Is there anything that I can or should add to his diet to supplement the food sticks or just vary it up for him since removing the crickets, mealworms, and rosy feeders?
<I raise my hatchlings all the way to adult breeders on a basic diet of Koi pellets (same ingredients as the food sticks - just less expensive) and an occasional (once a month) earth worm. I go to the local pet store and buy a dozen night crawlers. If there are any left over I dump them in the garden where they aerate the soil.>
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm
Thanks again!
<yer welcome>

Gold Leaf on shell of Southern Painted 3/16/11
Dear Crew,
<Hiya - Darrel here>
I adopted a Baby Southern Painted Turtle a year ago. She has been living in a 55g with water temps at 78 and basking spot at 90. She has no problem eating a good well balanced diet, basks regularly and is active.
<all good news>
Little gal had what looked like gold leaf on her shell. When she sheds the spots go away but return every time. The spots are not soft do not smell and will not come off by rubbing or scraping, (must be deeper).
<It looks from here that it might be a fungal infection in the carapace.
Remember that the scutes are very much like fingernail material - the part you can actually touch is already more or less dead and is on top of the growing material.>
<Your course of treatment is a topical anti-fungal. I'd use a cream that you get in the store for athlete's foot (Lamisil, Tinactin, Lotrimin, etc.)
Take her out and let the shell dry off, apply a small amount of cream over the affected area and allow her to stay dry for 30 minutes. This is effective at any time, but just before and immediately after a shed will be most helpful. Repeat this for 6 weeks or so and you'll get an indication if it's improving>
Pics are of her when we brought her home, and today (exactly a year later).
Also we have a Texas Map that we got at same time lives in same conditions and is doing great with no problems.
Thank you so much.
<yer welcome>
Josh

Re: Gold Leaf on shell of Southern Painted 3/21/11
Dear Darrel
<Hey there, Josh>
Thank you so much again for help, it was the first straight answer I got from anyone, will start right away.
<As long as you keep in mind that "straight" answer and "right" answer are not always the same '¦>
I also just wanted to let you know that I love reading your help responses on the site '¦
<'¦ No accounting for taste '¦.>
'¦ even when the topic is not an issue I am dealing with. Very funny stuff.
<I'm often told that I'm "funny" but rarely in the 'ha-ha' way ... so thanks!>
A few times I had to have the wife pause the TV so I could share with her a witty comment. So thank you for taking the time to educate, help, and Entertain us out here on the world wide webz.
<We're here all week to entertain you & two shows on Sunday '¦ please don't forget to tip your waitress!>
-Josh.

A red eared slider question, shell bits loss 3/16/11
Dear Crew,
<Hiya - Darrel here>
I would like to thank you so much for providing a place to ask questions. Many of the forums are just regular people guessing at the problem and after reading your site for hours on end I see that is definitely not the case,
<Correct. There are no regular people here. Actually we're fairly IRREGULAR people. In fact, from Bob Fenner on down, the only time you'll hear the word 'normal' is usually preceded by the phrase "Substantial deviation from '¦">
<<[Oh dear, it's going to be only of "those" days - Editor]>><<< Hey! Darrel! You're editing yourself! RMF>>>
you people know what you're talking about.
<well, I wouldn't go quite THAT far '¦.>
Therefore I am really hoping you will be able to help me and my darling Ralphie. We believe that Ralphie is a female red eared slider. She (?) came to us from a girl who was trying to see just how big she could get a turtle to grow if she kept it on Zoo Med growth formula all of its life.
<Bad, but I understand the premise. I once tried to see how drunk I could get by drinking Bourbon for 3 meals a day for a week. THAT led to the unfortunate incident with my college roommate's girlfriend and that plate of spaghetti. But that was a long time ago and I'm feeling MUCH better now>
<<[sigh -- I'm not gonna ask, I'm not gonna ask, I'm not gonna ask - Ed]>><<<Note, this is STILL Darrel!>>>
(I wish that was a bad joke but sadly it isn't) I don't know if that is bad for a turtle (or if the food even made a difference)
<It does, but usually it causes obesity, like my brother-in-law, not simply accelerated growth. On the other hand, accelerated growth (higher temps, etc) REQUIRES a growth-based, diet - so by the looks of Ralphie (big yet fit) I'd say you dodged whatever bullet might have been there>
but as you can see Ralphie is a big girl. Since she has lived with us (about 4 years now) she has been on a diet of Zoo Med aquatic turtle maintenance formula, dandelion greens, dried corn, peas, strawberries, apples and cranberries. Every couple of weeks we will give her some freeze dried crickets, bloodworm and river shrimp as a treat because even though we know she doesn't need the meat anymore she really seems to enjoy it.
<I feed mine a basic diet of Koi pellets. They're vegetable-based with a good mix of just about all the stuff you're feeding Ralphie. Then, for the treat, I give them and earthworm or two every month>
Normally we feed her every other day and she eats like she is starving.
<For an adult - three times a week, max. And I mean "max" as in "maximum" not someone NAMED "Max">
Lately however we have noticed that she isn't finishing her food. I am scooping most of it out and that is not her normal behavior. She also didn't slide back into the water when I went to take the pictures and she allowed me to touch her shell which is unheard of (she bites me when I take her out to clean the tank)
<I hear you - my teenaged son has the same disposition>
but she is still swimming in the water. This past weekend we had to go out of town for a funeral and our pet sitter came to feed her Sunday morning. When she arrived she noticed large pieces of shell on the bottom of the tank and she was nice enough to scoop them out and save them for me.
<Yes - that was nice.>
Ralphie has never lost pieces of her shell and I am worried this could be something serious.
<Not necessarily. Combined with the change in behavior -- it's ODD '¦ but we haven't arrive at "serious" just yet>
The vet that we took her to when we first got her has since retired and shame on me I never went looking for another one, now I find out the nearest reptile vet is 45 minutes from my home.
<It's OK just now.>
I don't mind taking her but would like to avoid the stress of the travel if I can,
<You should be OK with travel. I mean if the trip to the funeral wasn't stressful, a 45 minute drive should be OK. Try focusing on the horizon or listening to music>
as she is already losing pieces of her shell.
<Oh wait -- you meant Ralphie. OK - that's different. But then - not really>
<A 45 minute drive in a car isn't the kind of stress that a turtle can't handle. They're remarkable resilient that way. I don't think you need to go to the vet just yet, but if you feel the need, don't worry about Ralphie's stress level. Turtles are much more affected by long term environmental stress than short term stress like we'd see in fish, birds and certain other reptiles (like my brother-in-law).>
<Just don't let Ralphie stick her head out the window '¦.>
I don't see any white stuff like most people mention when talking about shell rot though I did notice she isn't as shiny as normal when she is basking. She seems to have a little green stuff up by her head that has never been there before but that's all I see. I tried to search the web for the sulfa dip but am having a hard time finding it, many of the sites say it is discontinued do you recommend anything other then zoo med? I hope that you can help me and again thank you for your time.
<I'll get to more later on>
Tank setup:
55 gallon tank
<Too small if you ask me. Just barely, but still too small. Turtles benefit from surface area, not water depth - so the longer and wider the better>
water temp 78 degrees
<Too warm. Room Temp (68-73) is ideal. Our goal is to present Ralphie with choices and let HER decide her temp>
(from reading on your site I learned I need a temperature gauge in the basking area but currently I don't know the basking temperature)
<Rule of thumb: If you place your hand right in the rock, log or whatever underneath the basking lamp and it feels uncomfortable after about a minute '¦ you're in the ballpark. I like 88 to 93 degrees for my turtles>
250 watt stealth pro submersible heater for the water
<Completely unnecessary unless you live north of the Arctic Circle>
Fluval 305 canister filter and Aquaclear 50 in tank filter (she likes the waterfall so we use it more for that)
<Excellent>
Two clamp lamps one has the Zoo Med 5.0 UVB bulb the other the Zoo Med Blue light day bulb. At night she only has the Zoo Med Red lamp heating bulb (we turn our heat off in the house at night and she likes to sleep under the red bulb where it is warm)
<I'm not so sure about this one. They should cool down at night. Try to think of a Georgia swamp and what the temps would be there. After dark it gets downright chilly so the turtles go down into the water and sleep '¦ crawling out to warm up in the morning sun.>
I also use the Exo Terra Moss ball and ReptoGuard Sulfa block in the tank. I have to put the sulfa block inside that little bridge (see picture) or she eats it. The tank is vacuum cleaned daily and the filters are cleaned weekly. I usually do a water change twice a month though I never take all of the water out (only half at each time)
<GREAT CARE, Sara!! I'm not a fan of water conditioners (like the Moss Ball) but my colleague Neale reminds me that it can't hurt -- as long as such things don't take money away from food, lamps and filters>
<SulfaBlocks are, in my opinion (also known as the "right" or "correct" opinion) a waste of your time and money. Same as the calcium blocks. Both those products were introduced long before we had any idea of what it took to keep reptiles in captivity and they've just hung on because people still buy them>
I hope this helps you to get a clear picture of what her life is like and any help you can give would be greatly appreciated.
<SPEAKING OF CLEAR PICTURES '¦..>
<Most people send us these gargantuan pictures that measure 3 feet by 6 feet and we can't even use our software to resize them -- and they're usually fuzzy, too. Your pictures, on the other hand - are crystal clear, but a tad bit too small to see any real detail>
<Let's start with the basic environment. I'd like to see a bit bigger enclosure for Ralphie, along with more basking area than just a stone or log.>
<I think your diet is fine - although you may be feeding too much. Remember, Ralphie has no job, no commute, no groceries to buy, shopping to do, dinners to make or idiot son's rooms to have to continually nag him to clean up. Her life is pretty ideal, so she doesn't build up a great appetite. Her metabolism is naturally slowing with age and especially if you reduce the water temperature her appetite will start to decrease - and this will be a Good Thing"¢>
<Now we get down to the shell pieces. The normal shedding of scutes leaves an identical "fresh" scute underneath. Ideally the old scute sloughs off like a piece of fingernail - somewhere between clear and barely translucent. This is normal and healthy - part of their growth. The important thing is that the remaining shell is intact - not leaving any gaps or white bone-looking plates underneath. The EXCEPTION to that is around the very edges, where mechanical wear & tear can cause some snags and uneven edges>
<If you could take better (ie Bigger) pictures of the shell itself - from directly about and perhaps 3/4 above - I'd like to better visualize the shell. But beyond that, if something is "wrong" you'll usually know it right away. No smell, no blood, no gray sheets falling off? The green on the head - algae? A Q-Tip Brand Cotton Swab dipped in white vinegar rubbed on the spot should bring that right off>
We didn't know anything about turtles when she arrived and we hope that we are giving her a good life because we sure do love her.
<You love her - and she bites you. Yep that sounds a lot like my teenaged son.>
<I think you level of care and concern is wonderful, Sara. You're being a great turtle Mom>
Thank you, Sara
<yer welcome, Sara>

Musk turtle shell 2/25/11
Hey
<Hiya! Darrel here>
I have 2 Common Musk Turtles which are just over 2 years old. I'm pretty sure one is male and the other is female (but I'm not positive). The carapaces are around 3-4 inches long now. They are fed every other day.
<About right>
Their diet consists of ReptoMin turtle sticks and frozen brine shrimp/turtle food/crayfish alternately. They also get 4 drops of Beaphar Turtle Vit every day (as per the
Instructions of the place I bought them and the packaging). They are fed in the water because they like to bite (especially the male!).
<Yes they do! Mud and Musk turtles tend to have short tempers>
They have recently moved into a new home: a 240 liter fish tank kept about a third filled. I am using the canister filter that came with it so it is definitely more than good enough to keep the water clean. There is a reptile UVB bulb (one of the ones that goes in the lid of the tank) and a ceramic heat lamp centered on the platform for basking. The light is kept on all day from about 7am to 10pm.
<Maybe just a tiny bit long. They wouldn't encounter that it the wild>
They have lots of dark places to hide but also have a platform and plenty of things they can climb on to bask on. I rarely see them basking though but I gather from some research that this is about right for musk turtles.
<They DO bask, not as often as other turtles -- and they're more likely to do it is secret - retreating to the water at the first movement or vibration - so even though people don't SEE them basking, the UV and the heat lamps are still important.>
The water is 78 degrees (measured with a thermometer) and is kept at this temperature with a heater.
<Too warm. They'd never find 78 degree water in nature unless they were vacationing in Hawaii. Water should be 68-73 degrees, in other words "Room Temperature" and them they have a CHOICE between cool water and warm basking>
I do a part water change every 2 weeks and give the tank and filter a good clean about once a month. They are not next to a window.
<Other than the temp - everything sounds GREAT. Remove the heater completely and let the water be room temp.>
So the problem is with their shells. Over the last couple of days they have developed what looks to me like a white/grey deposit (?)/coat on their shells but the shells are still hard. I've attached some pictures but they're not that clear because the turtles wouldn't be helpful and sit still (one has some glare on it from the light too)! I'm worried that it's shell rot but I read a few posts on the website and saw one about mineral deposits and now wonder if this could be the case but as I couldn't find any pictures I would be really grateful if you could tell me what you think. I live in quite a hard water area and there is almost constantly a mineral deposit mark around the tank so I think it is probably mineral deposits on the shells. However it has appeared in literally the last couple of days which has concerned me. They are eating fine and being as curious/nosy as ever so they don't seem to be suffering any ill effects at the minute. Sorry for the essay but it says to include as much information as possible! Thanks in advance!
Kim
<Kim - looks like water spots/mineral buildup to me. Scrape a small section gently with something hard. Fungus will usually come off as a sheet or flakes, where mineral deposits just disintegrate (or don't come off at all). Try washing a spot with a bit of vinegar.>
<If they stay healthy and active and the shell doesn't soften or start to smell, then just wash the minerals away a little bit with vinegar every tank cleaning and put it out of your mind>

Turtle shell 2/11/11
Hello, My name is Jesy
<Hiya Jesy - Darrel here>
I own a small red eared slider which has been in my care for a while now, I have nursed him back to health from severe sickness. I have just today rescued another one, just under a year from an owner who was treating it very badly and neglecting to take care of it. It has white clusters over a large part of its shell that do not seem moist in any way, they look more like pigment change. I was wondering it this is simply calcium deficiency, a fungus infection, or shell rot. I will take him to the vet but the other turtle cost me a lot to take to the vet and I'm hoping I can do something about this at home. I've attached some pictures, thank you!
<Yer welcome>
<What I see in the pictures is, for lack of a better word, stains. I could be from some combination of lack of proper UV-B light, lack of calcium and/or unclean water, the scute material is stained, faded, washed
out, etc. This is not uncommon in Emydid turtles such as sliders, cooters, etc. and has no negative effect on their health as long as the conditions I mentioned are no longer present.>
<In other words, clean up the environment, follow the rules (read link below) and don't worry>
< http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm >

Female Red Ear Slider Turtle, lack of data 1/13/11
Hi! So there is something wrong with my turtles shell she is an Adult Red Ear Slider, I got her a couple months ago from a friend and this white stuff just showed up within the last couple week or two... I have done a ton of research using your site and it seems as though it could be mild shell rot, fungus, or even possible hard water build up...
<Yes>
But I don't know. If you could please shed some light on this issue that would be great! I have attached some photos to help explain. Thank you so much!!
<Please (re)read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/turtshellrot.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>