New Print and eBook on Amazon Goldfish Success What it takes to keep goldfish healthy long-term by Robert (Bob) Fenner

eye “thread”     8/2/19
Hello,
<Hello William,>
I have a male blue gularis killifish. He was in quarantine for a month with no problems. I moved him to the display tank about a week ago. I now notice what seems to be a single, small, white mucus-like filament coming from the exact center of each eyeball.
<Yikes!>
The filaments are less than the thickness of a human hair and about 1-2 mm long. I tried to take pictures, but none captured it. My first thought was Anchorworm, but nothing of what i have read says they can embed in the eye.
<Indeed, but there are other crustacean parasites that certainly can. Diplostomum (a fluke/worm rather than crustacean) is another eye parasite, though internal, so results in a cloudy eye.>
I also thought of a Columnaris thread, but it does not look like any Columnaris i have ever seen. The killie is otherwise happy and healthy, feeding and playing (even though his female companion was predated by a 7” blue sheatfish in the first hour she was in the tank!!)
<Why is there are large, predatory catfish in the aquarium with these small Killies?>
Two days ago i euthanized a praecox rainbow who has been sick for a couple of weeks, hiding, labored breathing, and had unilateral PopEye that was dark and cloudy.
<Pop-eye to a single eye usually indicates physical damage. If there's a predatory catfish in there, or at least one trying to be predatory, that could easily have alarmed the Rainbowfish, who then swam into a rock or something else and so damaged its eye.>
Tank has been running for about 7 years, with several inhabitants still alive from the beginning. 400gal total volume (inc sumps), stable ph 7.7, ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate ~30. 70 gal water change each week.
If you have any thoughts, let me know. Thanks for the great information.
Best,
Bill
<The threads on the eye sound most like an Anchor Worm-type parasite, i.e., an external crustacean, and my immediate suggestion would be to treat as per Anchor Worm. Diplostomum (or "Eye fluke") is unlikely to cause a thread to emerge from the lens, but is worth considering. Similarly, fungal (as opposed to bacterial) infections can produce threads, but you'd expect to see them across the fish rather than just one specific place on each eye. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: eye “thread”     8/3/19
Thanks for getting back to me. So I should attempt to remove the thread from the eye, like is normally done per anchor worm?
<I would not.>
That freaks me out a little, tweezing something from the eye.
<Indeed.>
Can you direct me to any reading on technique? .......
<I would use medications as per Anchor Worm; removal creates wounds that need sterilising (e.g., with iodine) which isn't practical here.>
Also, the sheatfish do not bother anyone who is too big to eat--they have been in there for two years. The euthanized praecox was sizable at about 5 years old.
<Perhaps. But even if the catfish didn't kill the Rainbow, it's activity at night could have been enough to startle said Rainbowfish into a startled escape response -- and from this the damage to the eye. As a I say, pop-eye on one side tends to be physical damage (both eyes tends to be environment) so assess and act accordingly.>
My error was indeed putting the female killie in the tank, thinking she was large enough. She was about 2". The male is over 3" and I chose this species because of its larger size, with the male reaching 4-5 inches. And interestingly, I have albino Ancistrus that have spawned, and I returned 10 one-inch fry to the display tank (after selling 128 to my LFS), and none were predated, now all over two inches. The sheatfish eat exclusively off the substrate, which I found odd, so I was concerned for the small Ancistrus. But there was no problem. These observations led to my error in assuming the 2" killie would be safe. I was wrong.
<Indeed.>
PS. While the sheatfish were sold to me as Kryptopterus cryptopterus, they most certainly are not that species; they have a pronounced nuchal concavity. My best estimate is that they are K. parvanalis. Many thanks for this public service that you provide.
<Interesting. Ompok app are quite commonly seen in the trade, so do look at these too. Indeed, so many Kryptopterus and Ompok species out there, and the two genera being difficult to separate, that I'd tend to be very open minded about any name offered by retailers. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: eye “thread”
Got it. Many thanks.
<Most welcome. Neale.>

Anchor worms in a freshwater aquarium      7/29/19 Hello Crew, I want to start by saying what a great resource your website is for everything you need to know about keeping fish and more. I have spent hours reading through articles and FAQs about parasites and swordtails. <Thanks for the kind words.> Although I did learn a bunch, I couldn't find an exact match to the odd situation I am experiencing. I have been keeping planted aquariums for about 7 years. I have had this 25 gallon setup for a while...only 1 male guppy and 2 shrimp have been in here for quite some time. I sold my 120 gallon tank, so I revamped my 25 gallon with some plants and driftwood from the big tank (and a Fluval 405), and set out to buy a few fish from a local fish place that sells its livestock out of outside concrete block *ponds*. <Understood, and the outdoor maintenance does indeed explain the Anchor Worm situation.> I bought fancy guppies, crystal shrimp, long fin Bristlenose Pleco, and 3 Kohaku swordtails (1 male, 2 females). Everyone is happy. A couple weeks later I am staring down the male swordtail as he's munching on some Repashy, and I notice this whitish/greenish thing dangling...so well camouflaged next to his white anal fins ...after some research it turns out to be an anchor worm...which is common in *ponds* and in koi...and my fish came from a pond but aren't koi...so after a round of treating with API general cure and nothing happening (better or worse), I realize whatever chemical would kill the crustacean parasite will also kill my beautiful shrimp (and/or plants)... <Correct. Anchor Worms are very difficult to treat without specific medications, and these are, as you understand, toxic to other types of crustaceans as well, including shrimps and crabs.> So I caught the fish and pulled the worm, it came out easy, so I think the worm was dead. I have been doing 50% water changes every day since (3 days) I pulled the worm in hopes to remove any eggs/larva swimming in my system...I also started treatment with Maracyn for 2 reasons. <Won't do much for Anchor Worms, but yes, can be useful if infected wounds are a risk. Antibiotics have a low level of toxicity towards fish and invertebrates, so your main risk is making sure the filter bacteria aren't bothered. Always worth doing a nitrite test every few days following use of antibiotics. Mostly you'll be fine, because these antibiotics are formulated for use in aquaria, but it's worth checking even so, especially if you see evidence of filter problems, such as fish gasping at the surface.> 1. Because of the tiny wound the parasite left on my fish from being removed and because 2. ever since I bought the swordtails, their gills have the slightest red coloring...not sure if it's their normal coloring or an irritation from the anchor worm larvae or another annoying bacteria/fungus/parasite. I also have 5 guppy fry that are getting pretty big and starting to swim among the adults. The male swordtail is recovering nicely and his wound is barely noticeable anymore. So after that long winded story, I guess my question really is, can or would this parasite keep living in a tank vs. a pond? <Anchor Worms switch between a free-living juvenile stage and a parasitic adult stage. Provided the juveniles are not removed by the filter, they can swim about and either infect the same fish or some other fish in the tank. This is different to the case with many other pond parasites that have a second host, such as a snail or fish-eating bird, that the parasite needs to go through to infect another generation of fish. So short answer, yes, Anchor Worms can and do reinfect fish under aquarium conditions.> Most of the information I find online is about anchor worm in koi ponds, not fish tanks. I am starting to hope they just won't complete their life cycle in the aquarium setting as this seems to be quite a nasty bugger to deal with. <Among the nastiest, and a major problem to fish farmers, let alone aquarists. There are some highly effective medications, but you will need to remove the shrimps while they're being used. After the full course of the treatment is done, a series of water changes, plus the use of carbon in the filter, should return the tank to being "shrimp friendly" but I'd suggest only putting a few shrimp in first to see how they do.> I am so worried I am going to come look at my tank one morning to see everyone covered in anchor worms. What else can I do besides water changes? <See above. The old school approach of using potassium permanganate is deprecated nowadays because this stuff is rather toxic and difficult to use safely. Likewise, physical removal of the adult Anchor Worms is difficult without stressing the fish or exposing the wounds to secondary infections. If all you had were livebearers, then making the tank brackish for a while (5-10 gram/litre; 4-6 weeks) would probably kill off all the Anchor Worms, and this sort of approach is similar to what fish farmers do when moving trout in and out of sea lochs to kill off skin parasites of various kinds. But your catfish won't appreciate salty water. Generally, the safest approach is to use specific Anchor Worm medications, but as we both understand, these are toxic to shrimps. Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Anchor worms in a freshwater aquarium        7/30/19 Wow! Thank you so much for the prompt response Neale, that was amazing to wake up to and so reassuring when going through stressful situations like this... <Most amazing.> What wasn't so amazing was finding another adult on one of my male guppies (I hope I am not going crazy and seeing things). I caught the fish and tried to pull it off, but all I got was the tip...much harder to pull off, so I think this anchor worm must had still been alive. <Agreed, and when they're alive, if you pull at them, they're more likely to "dig in" and thereby cause wounds. So approach with caution. Guppies can handle seawater for long periods (wild ones, indefinitely) so a seawater bath for 5-10 minutes would stress, if not kill, the Anchor Worms, and maybe make things easier to do. 35 gram/litre non-iodised salt will replicate seawater adequately well.> I am going to bring that guppy back to the place and not accept a new fish in return, they can't give me enough store credits to make up for this incident, that they will more than likely smugly brush off as my problem and not a problem with their livestock (that are sold out of ponds). I have been buying fish here for a long time and I have never experienced this before. I included a pic of what I pulled off today. <Indeed, does look like part of an Anchor Worm.> I am hoping that daily 50% water changes and prompt removal of adults will fix this problem without having to break down the whole tank and start over. <May do, but I'd be medicating. Cheers, Neale.>

Lice - Solve      6/13/18
I used Lice – Solve last night on my happy active fish and this morning 16 of my fish are dead leaving only 5 left alive. I am heartbroken that despite using the correct amount and following instructions to the letter that I have inadvertently killed my beautiful fish with this product.
Jay
<Hello Jay. Lice-Solve is a product for killing off Argulus, Anchor Worms, and other (external) crustacean parasites. It's basically an insecticide, and should have low toxicity to vertebrates such as fish. Consequently the chemical inside Lice-Solve, Emamectin, has been used on fish farms where the food produced ends up on our dinner plates. With that said, insecticides can cause problems for fish if used at the wrong dosage (so double-check that) and can also cause problems to 'sensitive' fish species. If we're talking about pond fish, that's going to mean things like Orfe and Sturgeons, and possibly other species as well. Goldfish and Koi should be fine though. One problem with using any sort of poison is that if other things in the pond die as well, such as insects in the pond, and there's enough 'dying' going on to reduce water quality, then the fish may suffer as oxygen levels drop. It's often recommended that aeration be increased when medicating, which in a pond situation might include using a fountain or air bubbler. In a pond without filtration or aeration, it's entirely possible that even irritation to the gill membranes caused by the medication can be sufficient to stress, or even kill, your fish. I'd certainly reach out to the manufacturers to see if they can offer some insight, but I agree with you that this is a very unfortunate outcome. Hope this helps, Neale.>

Identification of possible parasite       5/19/17 <Karan... we ask that folks send image files of a few hundred Kbytes; yours is some 17 megs... > Hi there I have a very poorly Betta who has been battling a number of issues for a few months. He has PopEye in one eye which has not responded to any treatment - daily water changes, Indian almond leaves, Epsom salt baths, Myxazin, meth blue baths (all treatments spaced out over a few months). <Unilateral exophthalmia can be the "Dickens" to cure, depending on root cause, how entrenched it has become> He has lost a lot of colour and energy but still eating and I have now spotted something attached to his side which I think is a parasite but I'm not sure. Would you be able to help identify if it is a parasite and what type it is and what treatment you would advise? <Yes; I see what appears to be an "Anchorworm" (actually a crustacean parasite) on the "chest area"; please see here re: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/anchorwrmfaqs.htm He is in a filtered 12L hospital tank (half filled as not swimming to bottom great - swim bladder?) temp 82 with ammonia and nitrite 0 and nitrate 40 (tap water 40 too at the moment) I use Prime to condition water. Cheers! Karan <Please write back if your course of action is not clear here (after reading); I would carefully tweeze this adult Lernaeid off, dab the wound site w/ a proscribed topical antiseptic... and treat the system per the above reading to eliminate unattached stages. Bob Fenner>

Re: Identification of possible parasite     5/20/17 Thanks Bob. Apologies for size of pics! I attempted to remove the parasite but it didn't go well and the head is still buried. <Ahh!> I now have one very stressed out fish and half an anchor worm! <Well; a bit more chance for secondary infection... but the rest will decompose in time> I'll get some Waterlife Parazin and treat with that. Hoping that will sort the worm and improve his overall health if he survives tonight. Thank you :) <Steady on Karan. Cheers, BobF>

Goldfish (Bob, can you double check?)       2/15/17 <I concur w/ your analysis and suggestions Neale. Bob Fenner> I got my first goldfish a few days ago, and just noticed that she seems to have white, string-like strands coming from her fins. I'm not sure if it's the beginning of fin rot or something else. She also has two white dots on her dorsal fin that I'm not sure about, whether they are the start of an ich infestation or just part of her pattern. Tank info; 2" fantail goldfish, 25 gallon aquarium, filtration, ammonia 0, nitrites 0, nitrates 10-20. I've attached some pictures, please don't mind the poop (I've heard that's normal for goldfish?) For now I might pick up some Paraguard... I really appreciate your help! Lena <Lena, I'm fairly sure these "threads" are Anchor Worms or some other crustacean parasite of that type. This is a pain to treat! Traditionally people used potassium permanganate baths, but products like Waterlife Parazin are probably safer (and certainly easier) to use. Regardless, once the parasites die and fall off, you need to keep a sharp eye out on the fins and skin. The white "pock" marks on the fins could easily be wounds from previous parasites, and have a tendency to become infected. I wouldn't medicate immediately (healthy fish should recover quickly in good water conditions) but if there's any sign of Finrot, such as raggedy edges to the fins or pink/white speckles on the fins, then medicate with a good quality antibiotic (such as Kanaplex). Salt, Melafix and other such products are NOT what you want here, despite their "cure all" reputation. Let me also have you do some reading: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/anchorwrmfaqs.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/goldfish101art.htm Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Goldfish (Bob, can you double check?)      2/16/17 Thanks so much for your help! I'll look into those meds and keep a close eye on her. I'll also read through those pages. Thanks again! Lena <Glad to help and good luck. Neale.>

Anchor Worm Question      10/9/15
First and foremost:
I am a novice when it comes to fish tanks. I’ve maintained two 28 gal tanks for one year without losing some of my initial small goldfish and barbs, adding in other tetras and angels. This combination has worked for me. I keep a close eye on them because I’d been cautioned about this mix of fish, but only have seen minor quarrels between two dominant angels occasionally.
<Understood. Not all barbs are nippy... it's a myth that they are. Some wouldn't say boo to a goose. Pentazona Barbs can be frightened of their own shadows, while Cherry Barbs are among the best community fish around. But others, Tigers and Rubies especially, are confirmed nippers, though usually when insufficient numbers are maintained.>
However, my pressing issue is this. I spotted a tank of small fantail goldfish at a department store that were sick a week ago. They were covered in, what I Googled and found out to be, anchor worms.
<Yikes!>
I was lucky to talk the store into letting me take them and I pulled ~ 20 worms out of four fish total. I brushed the area with a q-tip and hydrogen peroxide and have them in a 2 gallon fish bowl I’m changing twice a day and treating with appropriate amounts of water conditioner, API brand Melafix, and Stressful, and some aquarium salt. It has been a week, and the four fish look ok (scabbing/ dark appearance where worms were, but seem to be healing), they are eating fine and no more anchor worms have appeared yet. I also took a two calico fantails exposed to the worms but not presenting symptoms and not 'in from the same vendor’ that the gold fantails came from (according to the store employee I got the fish from). Do I need to treat the fish further? When will they be safe to take out of quarantine? Any help would be appreciated because they and I would like to be done with anchor worms and would die if my tanks got infected.
<Anchor Worms don't always re-infect fish in aquaria if physically removed, but it can happen because they do produce eggs and larvae that can, sometimes, survive in aquaria. So while you might choose not to medicate further, you would still want to keep an eye on them for a few weeks. At tropical temperatures the Anchor Worm life cycle is a couple weeks, so quarantining for a month should reveal whether or not they have a second generation of Anchor Worms on them. Still, it's a crap-shoot without using appropriate medications. Any new Anchor Worms might be so small you can't see them, so the longer your quarantine, the better.>
Thanks,
Anna Marie
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Anchor Worm Question       10/10/15
Thanks Neale!
I really appreciate it. Just a couple of follow-up questions:
Is there something I can put in my tanks as a preventative when I do put them in the tank? I heard mention of a few products specifically for anchor worms, whereas I went down the physical removal route. I wasn’t sure if those products killed the worms too (and maybe were preventative in new outbreaks)?
<There are specific medications for Anchor Worms. The problem is that they're all pretty toxic, not just to the fish but to you too. Potassium permanganate and various insecticides have been used in the past. Some modern medications are marginally safer, but use very carefully and follow the instructions to the letter. Sensitive fish (such as loaches) may be killed, and invertebrates (snails and shrimps for example) almost certainly will be. I would be tempted to leave things be for now, quarantine for an extended period as discussed, and if all seems well, move the new fish into the main aquarium, and then thoroughly cleaning out the quarantine tank and anything else (like nets) that might harbour the larval stages of the parasite. With luck you'll have broken the life cycle and all will be well. Just keep an eye out for "flashing" (fish scratching against solid objects) and other behaviours that suggest their gills have become parasitised, often the first sign of this sort of Anchor Worm infection. If that happens, you'll need to buy and use a commercial anti-Anchor Worm medication.>
If so, should I get one of those products to treat the affected fish now and the tanks for later once quarantine is over (just in case)?? It may be overkill, but I’d rather fair on that side. Again, THANKS for your help!
<Most welcome.>
Amazingly two of the four sick fish look completely better! What a difference a week makes!
<Quite so.>
p.s. Both my established tanks are ‘community’ tanks with a variety of fish. In the tank the ‘Anchor Worm Crew' fish are destined, I have a red tailed shark, three tiger barbs, an albino barb, and a green barb in with med. & sm goldfish of differing varieties (Blk moor, calico, fantail, ‘rescue’ feeder fish, etc., and two med/lg marble angels plus some different tetras. The barbs chase each other some, but leave everyone else alone, (no nipping) and the tiger shark isn’t a menace either…
The only nippers I’ve had were Dalmatian mollies. They’re little gang got disbanded and went back to the aquatics store.
Luckily my local aquatics shop takes/ resells trade-ins so they all have a place to go no matter their size or disposition if I can’t make something work!
Anna Marie
<Sounds a most useful retailer. Cheers, Neale.>

Dreaded Lernaea. Thank goodness for quarantine tanks      9/25/14
Greetings Crew, My biggest nightmare came true. Upon receiving a shipment of Shubunkin goldfish, I noticed a fish with what looked like a damaged dorsal fin. Almost looked as if a dorsal ray was protruding.
<Ah yes; quite common in pond raised, reared goldfishes>
I was a little worried about anchor worms but having never encountered this parasite(only heard of), I shrugged it off and tossed fish into quarantine tank. Coincidently I had to go on 7 day trip the following day. Upon returning I noticed all fish were severely infected, some with gaping wounds. All fish have passed away. Now I'm worried about my quarantine tank. I was planning to let tank run without livestock for 30 days. Is it possible that nauplii would die off in this time frame and break life cycle
or should I bite the bullet and treat with organophosphate to be on the safe side?
<Mmm; I'd bleach (chlorine) the entire contents... gravel if present, filter/s... Leave running for an hour re the SOP posted on WWM re sterilizing systems>
Is there another medication I could use in this situation(hopefully less toxic)?
<There are, but the Cl biocide is the easiest, cheapest, most assured way of elimination>
Is there certain times of the year when I should avoid buying these pond fish?
<Mmm; no; not really... in terms of avoiding parasitic issues. >
Thanks as always for the great site. Aloha Brandon
<Ah, welcome. Bob Fenner>

Re: catfish emergency   3/7/14
Greetings WetWebMedia crew,
I noticed some sort of insect larvae (looked like a small dragon fly larvae)
<Unlikely to be a dragonfly larva. But Anchor Worms are a possibility in pond fish, though extremely rare in aquaria.>
attached to the wound of my Pangasius. I tried to syphon the insect but it escaped. I don't think this is a normal parasite but in my fish's weakened state may be more vulnerable to attack.
<Indeed. But fungus and even strips of decaying tissue can be mistaken for parasites.>
The other possibility is that the insect could be beneficial, feeding on dead tissue. This is a large fish(24") and  has been recovering from a Columnaris infection(I've corresponded a few times in the last week or two in regard to the Columnaris infection).
My other problem is he is still not feeding. I've only tried floating and sinking pellets.
<Will when healthy. If unhealthy, won't want to eat, and trying to force it will mostly make things worse.>
I do have on hand a wide assortment of livebearers of all sizes, cichlid fry, red wigglers (composting worms) and  Neocaridina shrimp. I normally don't live feed any of my fish but under these circumstances I'm thinking of using these guys. I could also purchase brine shrimp. This fish is not skinny and has been living in a 2000gal outdoor pond with ample insect life (blood worms etc) and plant life,
<Ah, the plot thinnens. Do look up Anchor Worms.>
but hasn't fed in a month, to my knowledge.
<In a pond will likely have access to a variety of additional foods including insects, algae and decaying plant matter. Unlikely to starve.>
(this fish was given to me 30 days ago and broke out in Columnaris infection 24hrs  after arrival and hasn't fed since introduction). Any suggestions?
<See above.>
He  has been healing nicely in a 300gal hospital tank as side from that.
The fish seems active and the white tissue surrounding head and tip of caudal fin have disappeared. Although there are patches of red remaining,.
I've noticed if I shine a flash light he shys away, I'm hoping his vision is in intact. I've been doing 50% water changes every other day and he seems to really respond to that.
<When fish perk up after water changes, it's a good sign environmental stress/stresses are to be blame.>
Do you think I should be worried? Thanks for all the great information,
Brandon
<Hope this helps, Neale.>
Re: catfish emergency   3/7/14
Thanks for the response Neale. Although the insect larvae was definitely not an anchor worm. I'll try to capture and photograph. Thanks, Brandon
<Real good. Now aware of any insects that latch onto fish as parasites, though some will of course eat (very small) fish as prey, e.g., Dragonfly larvae. There are some crustaceans and leeches though that may parasitise fish, of which Anchor Worms and Fish "Lice" (Argulus spp., for example) are the most common. Cheers, Neale.>

Anchor worm? Recurring fin rot? Please help diagnose..   9/22/13 You folks helped me tremendously a few months back with my angelfish. I'm hoping you can assist me again. I have a 55 gallon tank with 5 adolescent angelfish, 4 blue rams, 2 Denison barbs and a Bala shark. <This last will get very large... might prove to be trouble for the other fishes; with its nervous, "jumpy" behavior> All of them together are about 17 inches of fish. They don't seem over-crowded yet, but if you tell me that's my issue, I will fix the situation. <Will be an issue w/ the Bala in time>  I am trying to let them pair, and then rehoming them. I recently had to treat for Camallanus worms with Levamisole. These worms didn't show up until 2 months after the fish was added, and I have added no new fish, plants, etc since. The Levamisole seems to have worked, but I will still administer the second dose next week. My biggest problem now is a blue ram with a red thing sticking out near his anal fin. <I see this>  It is bigger than the Camallanus worms, and there is only 1 It looks like a piece of red toothpick stuck in his side normally. However, when he gets angry, or during feeding time, it appears more like the "thing" comes out of him, then loops back up in him. It comes out if his side, not the anus. He is very aggressive at meal time also. I have (in a QT tank) tried Metronidazole, Praziquantel, CopperSafe, Methylene blue, salt baths/dips, Nitrofurazadone, and he was in the main tank for the Levamisole treatment. <None of these will treat for Anchorworm> I have not seen anything like this on any other fish, and I can't diagnose. I've researched and looked at so many pictures and descriptions, my brain is scrambled. I keep thinking it's an anchor worm, but no new ones have appeared, and it doesn't fork at the end. <May in time or not. Still could be Lernaea... I'd catch this fish now, hold gently but firmly, and pull this out carefully with a tweezers> It looks like "color", until he swims away from you, and the anal fin moves, but the "thing" doesn't. I would be so grateful for your opinion on what this could be. I'm going to ask a few other questions, because I wonder if all my problems aren't related. Two of the angelfish keep getting pinholes in their dorsal fins, and the dorsal looks raggedy. <... this could be "nothing" disease wise. Would NOT treat for> They also have missing scales, or little indents in their sides, that I thought were the result of pecking, but I never see pecking, and now I wonder if it's not bacterial! <More likely the Bala Minnow Shark or medicine exposure; can't see much in your images here>  I've attached a picture of my black angel, who looked like he scraped a piece off his side near his dorsal fin. It looked like mowed grass. It looked that way on both sides. These things keep happening. The indents and patches go away on their own, but it keeps happening. My parameters are good, but I try water changes anyways. Then, I treat with KanaPlex. <A poor idea to keep pouring in such> The fins get better, but it keeps coming back. Another odd symptom is that ALL the fish seem to tap their bellies with their ventral fins, as if trying to get something off. I've even seen a ram rub his belly in the gravel (not during breeding). I'm sorry for throwing so much information at you, but no one seems to have any idea why I keep having problems. I medicate (except for the Levamisole) in a QT tank. I only use medication when I fear the fish is dying. I try everything else first. The blue ram is a part of a pair that has laid eggs twice. I'm really hoping to diagnose and treat him. I would also like to keep the angelfish healthy, as they seem to be starting to swim in "twos", so any suggestions on their care is appreciated. I do weekly water changes with prime. My tank cycled 3 months ago. Readings- ammonia, nitrites: 0. Nitrates: never over 20. Ph: 7.2. GH: 7-8, KH: 5-6. I use 2 filters, a Purigen, sponges, and a nitra-zorb. No carbon. I mix 1/4 tap with 3/4 RO water. I was wondering if this might be making the ph shift, causing the fish to stress, and causing my problems. <Not likely; no> I test replacement water for kH, gH, ph and temperature. But, I don't add buffers or other chemicals. Does RO water need trace elements replaced and/or something added to keep ph stable? <Not if made up some other way; in this case mostly by the 1/4 tap>  Or is the tap water enough of a buffer? <According to your test results, yes> One last question: can a fish KEEP getting the same illnesses, or do they build immunities? <Some acquired immunity for some infectious, parasitic diseases has been demonstrated/observed in many fishes>  I feed them blood worms <Stop! Do search the net re these Chironomid sewer worm larvae. I would NOT use them, or restrict their use> or brine shrimp soaked in vita-chem in the morning, and omega flakes at night (all eaten in 3 minutes). Any help is greatly appreciated, as I'm really hoping to breed these fish. Thank you, Kelly <Thank you for sharing. Bob Fenner>

Anchor worms - Help!!     8/18/13 Hi WWM, <Kristen> I made a foolish mistake and added 3 juvenile Boesemanni Rainbows to my established 60 gallon tank (populated by 3 silver dollars, 2 pictus cats, and 2 adult Boesemanni). I bought them from the same reputable seller where I'd bought their tank mates between 5 and 3 yrs. ago. No, I didn't QT them. No obvious signs of infection were present & I took a gamble. Kicking myself now!! My water quality is always good (I make sure that the nitrates are below 25 ppm & do twice monthly water changes). I am by no means the most expert fish keeper, but I am not a newbie & have been maintaining 4 healthy tanks over the past 12 years. <Happens> To cut to the chase, these new Rainbows were infected with anchor worm (I actually removed some w/tweezers & salt & confirmed their identity) which I have never seen in an aquarium. <These two are seasonal infestations... from pond-raised fishes> Some of my pond Koi had this a couple of years back - I treated w/Anchors Away & they pulled through just fine. They are large fish, though. These small Rainbows were not so lucky, as they had multiple worms coming out of their gills and near their eyes, that showed up within a week of purchase. I've ordered Hikari CyroPro & it's on it's way, but unfortunately, those poor fish all succumbed. <Ahh!> I am REALLY worried now because my Silver Dollars started displaying what I thought could have been the beginnings of Ich, only on their fins, and I was going to treat for it (already raised temp. to 86) but now it looks to be turning into these same worms!! <Actually crustaceans> Is that possible, so quickly? <May be>  Would it only be showing up on the fins? <Not usually, no> I think I've seen nearly every other kind of FW fish disease, and this doesn't look like any of them. I do not have a pic because the lesions are still pretty small & the fish won't sit still. My main question is: do I treat immediately for anchor worm, or should I be more concerned about the possibility of Ich & treat for that first? <Not Ich... and/or the elevated temp. will take care of. I would treat for Lernaea> I really DON'T think it's Ich now. Maybe I was just seeing the lesions where the tiny copepod larval stage was attaching itself? <Again; possibly> I feel inclined to treat for the anchor worms right away... <Yes; I would> Thank you in advance for your help!! Kristen <I take it you've read the bit we have on these pests/parasites on WWM. Steady on, Bob Fenner>  Re: Anchor worms - Help!!      8/19/13 Bob, <Kristen> Thank you so much for your input! You've reassured me that I'm on the right track. I'll keep my fingers crossed and hope that all goes well. Best, Kristen <Please do send along notes re your further experiences, observations. BobF>  Re: Anchor worms - Help!!     8/20/13 Hello, Bob- <Kristen> Thank you for your continued assistance! I actually would like to have your take on the current state of the fish, if you have time. <Sure> I finally received the CyroPro, <Hikari product; cyromazine (N-cyclopropyl-1,3,5-triazine-2, 4,6-triamine). No reviews on Amazon.com...>  did the requisite 90% water change, and now, four hours later, the Silver Dollars' fins look like this (see attached). It happened very quickly. The Pictus look fine. <Burn baby burn> These aren't the best pictures - sorry! There are dried water droplets on the glass, casting shadows, so that's what accounts for the dark spots. The fins are not ragged, just looked a bit cloudy prior to the dosing (no more Ich-looking lesions), but they started to display this within an hour or so of dosing. Very strange! I hope that the medication is just taking effect, and may have simply irritated the growing parasitic crustaceans. <Maybe... I do see what appears to be an adult Lernaeid on the anal fin of one of the dollars. Have cropped two of your pix and tried to enhance (posted on WWM)> I did pull a smallish worm off of my largest Rainbow, near the eye. It came off very easily, a couple of hours after dosing w/the CyroPro. I've read that it works by interfering with the growth of exoskeletons. Anyway, I just hope that I'm doing the right thing to help my fish! <Yes; this is what I'd do as well> Thanks for your input! Kristen <Thank you for your ongoing sharing. Bob Fenner>

Re: Anchor worms - Help!!      8/21/13 Hi Bob, <Kris> Yes, I did pull a worm off of an SD today. <Ahh> I sure hope the CyroPro is working! I don't know how effective it is against fully mature Lernaea. <Not nearly as much as young, intermediates>  I can now see one protruding from the inside of a Rainbow's mouth. I think this is a strange and particularly aggressive form, which, at least in the Rainbows, seems to specifically target their eyes, gills, and mouth areas. <Yeeowch!> It's a 3 week long course of treatment, so I'll just keep hoping for the best. Thank you again for your help! If anything significant happens, I will send an update. Best, Kristen <Thank you, BobF>

parasites in fish and humans... Lernaeid confusion      7/26/12
I had an anchor worm problem this year with some of my  1-2" goldfish that I had in a brand new 600 gal pond that  I dug up this spring. I only had about 10 small goldfish in the pond, but the  pond was drying up fast from the lack of rain this year 2012, so I moved the  fish back into there 25 gal tank inside the house.
After about a month fish started to die, I had no idea  what the problem was till there was only 3 fish left, then I started to look  real close and that’s when I noticed the anchor worms, new to this problem I  treated the tank with PraziPro,
<... Anchorworm is not a worm, but a crustacean parasite... Prazi won't cure it. Read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/anchorwrmfaqs.htm
and took out the carbon out of the filter, but  it was to <too>
late for the fish. 4 days later after I treated the tank I took the  dead fish out and looked at the worms with a loop and I can see that some were  still alive. My question is how long  does it take for this product to kill the worm?
<... it won't. Read... >
Also how does  this parasite effect frogs and tadpoles in a pond? 
<Won't hopefully... unless worms present dying cause issues>
And the most important question I have is If children  or adults are playing in a small pond like mine catching frogs and tadpoles that  is infested with parasites/anchor worms and eggs and someone gets these  parasites or parasite eggs in an open wound/mouth/eyes will they become a  problem and how will it effect the human body?. Thanks  Frank
<Won't affect humans either... but, cheap/comet goldfish in America invariably have several infectious and parasitic issues...
I'd keep them out of the pond. Bob Fenner>

Goldfish blood spots 10/29/11
<Hello Hope>Are u able to tell me what to do about blood spots on some of my goldfish? <Likely to do with water condition, tank size> What can I do about them and why do they have them. <As above> I feed them frozen food and flakes. I change them a thirty gallon tank. <Assume you mean you have
them in a 30 gallon tank. How many? Goldfish are messy and in this size more than a couple of fish will likely make water conditions poor> One time per month. <Needs to be more often. Small water changes around 15% weekly> And add something to the water as per the dosage suggestion on the bottle. <What? Assume this is some kind of conditioner to remove chlorine and other toxic elements in tap water?> It is something for their bodies and the water. <Again, you really need to get with the basics and figure out what you are adding to the water. Aquasafe is a brand that works well for what I have mentioned above> I forget the name off hand. I do about half the tank change.<As above, smaller changes, more regular> And add water. Just a little during the month when the water evaporates. Thanks
for your help. <From the above description it does sound like you have an issue with water chemistry that is likely resulting in poor fish health. Please test you water for ammonia, nitrites etc. You also want to look at the number of goldfish you have in this space. You can read more about caring for your fish here -
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/goldfish.htm
Good luck! Sugam>
Re: Goldfish blood spots 10/29/11
Hi and thank you. <Hi Hope, sorry to hear about the loss> I took a water sample to the fish "whisperer" <Hehe!> this a.m. He tested for everything. Including ph, nitrates nitrites. All well. <Good. That's one area ruled out.> One fish has already succumbed to it. Two had it. Now one. The others. No. He is stumped as well. He is a local but a very knowledgeable person. So I trust his judgment. I use Amquel when I
do the change one time per month. I would almost describe it now on one fish as a parasite. <Have you added fish or anything else lately? I would think linked to stress from crowding/conditions has made them vulnerable to secondary infections > Maybe I will send you a photo of the remaining fish to this email address. Via the iPad. He said give it 72 hours and then he would come by and take a look. I will however follow your advice and change the water more frequently and less taken out. <Good! These helps keep the water conditions stable and good. About 15-20% weekly> Maybe.
It's too much to take out so much. <More of an issue of changing it less frequently than needed> Less is more. I appreciate that you answered the question(s). It almost seems like it is easier to keep guppies!!!!! <Yes. Goldfish, despite the way they are advertised, are not the easiest to keep and as I mentioned before, require lots of room.> I have four good sized goldfish in a thirty gallon tank... <Did you read the link I sent? That's not enough room for them.> Again. Maybe less is more!!!!????? <Indeed>
Thanks again. <You are welcome. Sugam> Hope
Re: Goldfish blood spots 10/29/11 11/2/11
Hi and thank you. I believe that those blood spots are in fact anchor worms!!!!! <Yikes! I have experience with these from a massive outbreak when I first set up my tank. Nasty creatures and difficult to get rid of them.> I went to the pet store and got a product called clout. <Not familiar with this product but do keep in mind that most of the medication that is specifically for anchor worm is highly toxic (for you and for other pets)> I have a thirty gallon tank. I placed. Three tablets in the tank as per the directions 2 days ago. Repeated the three tablets the next day and was told to do a small water change today by the "fish whisperer".
They are no better. All the fish have them now. They appear to be lesions with a bony appendage like sticking out of the lesion. <Take a look here. May help you make a firm identification -
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/anchorwrmfaqs.htm
Actually. I bought a fish unknowingly a month or so ago. From the shop and saw a lesion and projectile on the fish after my purchase. I did not notice it in the store before my purchase..... Only when I got home and put it in the tank. It never seemed sick though! <Yes. Sounds about right. The way these critters operate makes the fish look mostly healthy in the early stages.> In fact I believed it was injured somehow on the way home.
<Unlikely if you see a wound with a small whitish tail hanging out of it.>
In a few days the lesion and bony protrusion disappeared. <Not entirely bony but it is a firm protrusion for sure.> I guess it was the worm falling off and the fish healing. <These critters attach to fish for nutrition and have a life-cycle of their own.> Now I guess the eggs have multiplied and are attaching themselves to all the fish. <Would seem to be the case.>
They seem very active however I realize the fish will succumb to the parasites unless I can rid of them. <Aha! yes> What do you suggest I do now knowing that I have administered clout for 2 days and have done a slight water change. I really appreciate any help you would be able to give me. You doing a great service for people. Thanks <Hope, the approach I am about to propose isn't conventional to say the least but I did find it effective with the infestation I had. If your fish are of a decent size, dip them for a very short while in salt water. This will weaken the anchor worm's grip and then you will be able to pull out the worm with tweezers (the fish in a net, not in the hand). Please be extremely careful when doing this! If you don't get all of the worm out, it will just regrow and if you pull too much, there is a chance of killing the fish. Please look at adding some kind of antiseptic post this treatment so your fish don't pick up secondary infections. Do keep in mind that this proposed approach may be too much some of the fish but will certainly help with most. Was shown this technique by my own "fish whisperer" and it proved effective in my case. I wish you luck! Sugam>
Re: Goldfish blood spots 10/29/11
Re: Goldfish blood spots now identified as anchor worm 11/4/11
Hi. <Hello again Hope> They are definitely anchor worms. <Okay that's half the battle won. Now we know what to treat.> I will try to do what you suggested when I get up some nerve. <As I said, there is also medication specific to this issue but use with caution. It is highly toxic and by that I mean not just for the fish!> How do I make the salt solution <In a bucket. First add water, then sea salt (not table salt). About 100-120 grams per gallon should do the trick. Wait for the salt to mix in completely and the water to become clear. You will need to put a small powerhead in the bucket to help stir the solution. Dip for about a minute and keep a close eye on the fish. If the fish seems to be too stressed by the dip, remove immediately. The worm should come out easily immediately after the dip. I do realise that this procedure sounds quite rough and as I said before, it is definitely unconventional. Please do consider whether
you would like to pursue this route or whether you are more comfortable dosing a medication under the supervision of a vet. Either way, I would recommend treating the fish soon before the anchor worm weakens it to the point of no return. Do remember to add some kind of antiseptic (Melafix perhaps) post removal.>
How much salt. How much water. <As above> Thanks <Good luck! Sugam>
Re: Goldfish blood spots now identified as anchor worm 11/5/11
Hi. I just am not able to do this. <Hi Hope, as I said, the prescribed approach does sound harsh but really is the best way to go.> it is very sad to see these beautiful fish being infected by the parasite. <Indeed> Here is what I did. For 2 days I used the clout as prescribed. On the third day I removed a small amount of water and replaced it with new water I stopped the medication because I had already used it one more day than it said to use it. <I am not familiar with this medication but you can find but there are many brands of pesticides that will help treat the infection in the tank. Do follow the instructions exactly. Too much risk of toxicity here.> Yes. I realize that the medicine is very toxic. Basically I haven't come into contact with it. The fish are no better. Now all of the have the worms. They have spread and some have four or five on them.
One, the one that came in with the parasite and infected the others now has one on the edge of and a little inside his gill therefore I could not remove it. <Yikes! Please do remove the worms from the other fish as recommended and quarantine the one with the massive infestation if you haven't done so already.> When I saw that I gave up sorry to say. I am thinking that I should repeat the medicine. <Again, not familiar with the brand but from your description, does not look like it is working.> If so.
How much, for how many days and when should I begin again. If I loose <lose>the fish, and I hate to be pessimistic here what should I do to the tank to decontaminate it before placing other fish into it? <The pesticide based medications will decontaminate the tank.> How long would u say the eggs can live and under what conditions? Should I discard the gravel?
Rocks fake plants? Once again. <Once the treatment is done, please replace your carbon in the filter. Assume you have removed the carbon during the treatment?> Thank u
<Hope, I do believe the best approach is manual extraction. I am also putting your questions to the rest of the crew to see if there is any further they can offer or something I may have missed. Cheers, Sugam>
<Clout won't likely do... Ingredients: Phenylbenzylindene, dimethyl, phosphonate, methylnitro and inert ingredients as non-toxic binders Please read here (I believe you've been referred already):
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/anchorwrmfaqs.htm
and here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwcrustdisfaqs.htm
AND here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/organophosphatefaqs.htm
re Organophosphate use for such Crustacean parasitic situations. Bob Fenner>
Re: Goldfish blood spots now identified as anchor worm 11/4/11 11/19/11
sort of at a standstill here no better no worse yesterday I took the plunge and removed five of them the worms that is it is a very very tricky maneuver because just for you and other people's information when you remove the fish from the water the worm which is translucent blends into the fish body and it's very difficult to see it even with a magnifying glass which I tried to use. Definitely they are anchor worms! Thanks for your recent help. <You are welcome. Really glad you tried the suggested approach! I agree on being quite tricky but really one of the only ways to go with anchor worms. I am sure you did this but ensure you get all of the worm. If it snaps, it will simply grow back. You should now see some gradual improvement in the fish. Do remember to treat with iodine or Melafix! Cheers - Sugam>

My fish have splinters!!! 12/29/10
I have two three goldfish in a 10 gallon tank. I taking them out of the tank yesterday to clean it and I noticed that the smaller goldfish had splinters (or maybe bones?) growing out of him/her. I checked the other two and they also have them but not as much. I tried to take them out with some tweezers but I couldn't and the splinters were hard like maybe bones. I have no idea what it is or what to do. Can anyone please help me.
<Mmm, yes; I think your goldfish may have Lernaea/Anchor Worm parasites...
Please see here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwcrustdisfaqs.htm
re effective treatment. Bob Fenner>
Re: My fish have splinters!!! 12/29/10
Thank you very much. Your help is greatly appreciated.
<Ahh, welcome. Am happy to help you. BobF>

White Worms on Goldfish 11/7/10
Hello, I have a question about white worms on my goldfish. I've searched the site--thank you for all the information and help you provide, but am not finding cases that are similar to mine. I have a 55gal planted goldfish tank with 5 fancy goldfish, 1 Oto and a handful of Nerite snails. I do 40% water change weekly, the basic water parameters are; ammonia=0, nitrite=0, nitrate<20, pH 7.4, tamp 70. 2 of the fish, cute Ranchus, are new--they were introduced to the tank a little over a month ago. The smaller Ranchu at about 3-1/4" has had white worm looking things on his body and fins after she joined the family. These worms are white and thin, about 1/16" or less in length, and they look like short white threads or small white stitches on this Ranchu's body and sometimes fins. Some of them come and go (or move around, I'm not sure) over night, and some stay on the same spot for days. My first impression was that they were small Planaria that attached themselves to the fish, although I've never read any articles stating Planaria can attach themselves to fish. I've seen Planaria in my tank water and walls from time to time, but I've always thought they were free swimming worms rather than parasites. My orange fantail (largest and gorgeous fish at 6") used to get a few of the same thing on his body/fins occasionally, but with him they always went away after a few days. I'm starting to get worried for the little Ranchu if this is in fact a case of parasitic infection and she is not able to shake it off on her own. I was told by the supplier of these Ranchus (dandyorandas.com) that they were treated with Prazi while in his care. Additionally, they had a ParaGuard/salt bath upon arrival, and they were fed Jungle Anti-Parasite Medicated Food (Metronidazole 1.0%, Praziquantel 0.5%, Levamisole 0.4%) for a full course of treatment according to the instruction. I'm not able to get any clear pictures since the Ranchu is active. She eats well and appears happy otherwise, no obvious signs of distress or flashing. My only concern with her is that she is currently the smallest fish in the tank, and the more I worry, the more it seems as her scales are rather rough and lacking luster compared to the others. Do you have any idea what I'm dealing with, and do you suggest any further treatment? Thank you in advance for your help, I look forward to hearing from you. Yuko
<Hello Yuko. I'm fairly sure you're dealing with Anchor Worms, Lernaea spp. Although not common on Goldfish kept indoors, they do occur from time to time, and may persist for months or even years unnoticed at very low densities. There are commercial medications for removing Anchor Worms. Do also read here for more: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/anchorwrmfaqs.htm Do note that despite being called "worms" these aren't worms but crustaceans, kind of in the same way koala bears aren't bears. So medications like Praziquantel might be used against true worms, they're useless for treating Anchor Worms. Cheers, Neale.>

Anchor worm on Synodontis catfish? 8/7/10
Hi,
<Hello,>
There is what looks like a worm buried into the side of my Synodontis catfish.
<Oh?>
It is white and attached at both ends giving the appearance of a small, white staple, so I can't see a forked end to positively identify it as an anchor worm, but I don't know what else it would be.
<There are various similar parasites of this type beyond Anchor Worm, and wild-caught fish do sometimes bring them along when they're caught.>
It is about 1/4 inch long (the part that is visible, that is.). There has been nothing (plant or animal) added to the aquarium for probably a year.
<Has this "worm" not been visible in the last year?>
No live food is used. Can you please help with what it might be and how to treat it, given that she is a (very sweet!) scaleless fish?
<Assuming this is Anchor Worm, and we need a photo to be sure, treatment in this case is going to be two-fold. Firstly, you need to physically remove the worm. Use forceps or tweezers for this, and be incredibly careful. Restrain the catfish with a wet towel. Don't rush -- the fish can handle being out of the water for a good few minutes so long as its wet -- but thrashing about is going to damage you and the fish. Remember, catfish are equipped with sharp spines and WILL NOT hesitate to use them, so don't allow your fingers to get between the spines and the body or the fins will clamp shut and cut your fingers nastily. After removing the worm, dab with a little antiseptic; iodine for example would be ideal. Use a cotton swab for this. Removing the worm opens the fish up to a secondary infection, so the second step is to prevent that. Use either a broad spectrum antibiotic or some sort of mild antibacterial such as Melafix.>
Thank you, Constance
<Good luck, Neale.>
Re: Anchor worm on Synodontis catfish? 8/7/10
Thank you!
<Most welcome! Cheers, Neale.>

goldfish - spot turned into a spike, Lernaea likely 7/28/10
Hi. I hope I am not wasting your time, but I can not find what I am looking for anywhere on the internet. I have a very dark goldfish, almost black, and had him/her in a quarantine tank on it's own for several weeks. I bought it at the local aquarists, where I have previously purchased a tench that had mouth rot and died within a week or so. I should have learnt my lesson and not gone back. The black ones were not selling in their tank and were getting big, so were being sold cheap. Thing is, as the pond fish are sold, more fish come in and they go in the same tank/water, as far as I can tell. I thought that as this black one was big it must have been there a long time and so disease free.
<Mmm, "shop" goldfish are typically festooned with good parasite counts>
It must be around 6 inches including a large flowing tail.
<Likely a "comet" variety... will get bigger if it lives>
Within a day or two of getting it home I could see that it had 2 very pale whitish spots on it's mouth, one on the upper lip and a smaller one on the lower, around 1 to 2mm diameter.
<Could be "just colour">
I didn't really think much of it as the fish has a pale belly, and as nothing seemed wrong I assumed it was just it's colour pigmentation. I have had him at least a month now, and had recently put him into a tank with other goldfish, for observation before release into my pond. So, I was considering freeing him into my pond outside last night, but when feeding him first, I noticed that the spot on the upper lip had formed a spike, very very small, less than 2mm long. It looked like something was protruding from the white area of the white spot, maybe in place of the white spot.
<Mmm, any chance of sending along a well-resolved image of this area, spike?>
I have had goldfish with worms before and have a bottle of Prazi pro
<Mmm, not useful here... as this is likely a "crustacean" parasite... Lernaea, Anchorworm>
in my store cupboard. I have gave him a dose of this, about 24 hours ago, but am really unsure if this the right treatment as I am so far unable to identify the disease, or parasite. I have looked at pictures of anchor worms,
<Oh!>
but I don't think it is this as the 'thing' has not attached itself to the fish, but grown outwards from within.
<This is the life cycle... and do look like "spikes" starting out>
Now I have just caught him into a small transparent box (while emailing you) to have a better look at him, and the white thing seems to have gone, and in place of both the white spots are pinkish bits, looking a bit like pin-prick holes.
<This too can be indicative>
Could the white things have 'gone back in', or come out, or been killed by the treatment?
<Maybe the latter, but I would still treat the system (all fishes in contact) with an organophosphate>
While in this small observation box I have noticed streaks of red in his fins, obviously signs of stress. I wonder if you are able to tell me what this parasite is and whether I may have cured it as I am anxious to get this fish back into a better environment as I don't like to think that it is stressed/diseased.
Obviously may aim is to be able to free it into my pond. Also, should I treat the other fish it was temporarily housed with, I have been reluctant to do so as this larger tank houses snails which I do not want to kill. I do not know if Prazi pro will kill snails.
Any help much appreciated.
Wendy
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/anchorwrmfaqs.htm
and look at the images of the infested goldfish near the bottom... and read the linked files above re treatment. Bob Fenner>
Re: goldfish - spot turned into a spike 7/28/10
Many thanks for your reply and for the links.
Anchor worm is a lot nastier than I thought !!
<Yes... not to be/appear too reverse anthropomorphic, but OUCH!>
After e-mailing you last night, and as the thing(s) had appeared to have dropped off with the use of Prazi pro, I removed all the snails from my big tank containing the fishes pending to go into my pond, and stripped out the gravel and did a thorough clean down, 30% water change, and added Prazi pro to them as well. There are no signs of any health problems with these fish, and I can not find out how long I need to keep an eye on them before I can be sure they are parasite free and OK to release outside. Can you tell me?
<A few weeks>
Thank you for your comments suggesting organophosphates, which I have researched this evening, to find are not available in the UK. I remember I had to order the Prazi pro on the internet from abroad (US I think) as it was not available here, this was a few years ago now, but I can not find anywhere that will ship Dimilin or similar to the UK either.
<I encourage you to ask among your stockists... and/or a Vet. re>
I am keeping a close eye on the dark fish, which appears no different tonight than last night. I have tea tree and salt in my store cupboard, and wondered if these would be of use to fight any infection that may grow due to the holes.
<Not really, no. More likelihood of exacerbating problems by increased stress, decreased biofiltration with their use>
How long should I leave the fish in the Prazi pro treated water?
<... I don't think this vermifuge will do any real good here, but three-four days finds the compound losing potency>
- (And is the possible dropped off thing still alive and able to hop back on?)
<No... but if there are some present on the fish, there may well be intermediate forms in the system itself... Hence the call to remove adults (via tweezers) and treat the water/system>
- as I would like to get him out and into a bigger less stressful space. He is in about 4 gallons at the moment.
<Put in the tank, treat all>
Also, on reading about organophosphates I read they are not suitable for Orfe or tench.
<Are to degrees toxic and tolerable to all>
I have both in my pond, and Orfe in the potentially infected tank. It is likely also that I have released into my pond already, fish that were previously in my tank when for a short while the sick fish was present.
<Ohhhh>
Would the parasite, if it is anchor worm, have been at a contagious stage when I first purchased him, with the only signs a couple of pale spots?
<Possibly, yes... the egg-bound females are quite a bit larger, more obvious>
After a few weeks he went in with the other fish in the big tank for a few days, and then I took some of the fish that were present at that time, out, and released them into the pond. And I thought I was doing such a good job at Quarantine! Still a novice - I have kept pond fish for about 7 years.
I can take some pictures if it would be helpful, but there is no spike to see at the moment.
Thanks for your help.
Wendy
<Let's wait, hope that all is to be well at this point. Cheers, BobF>
Re: goldfish - spot turned into a spike 7/29/10
Thanks.
I am very impressed with your site and the amount of information available to those needing help! Also with the speed of replies - fast help when it is most needed. :-)
<... Wendy... you've sent 13.5 megs of ill-resolved, worthless images... we don't have space for more than a few hundred Kbytes... which is what we ask people to limit theirs to>
Have you heard of parazin P ??
<... yes>
I have been searching for ages for treatment available in the UK for anchor worm, and eventually found this, from
Waterlife, and available on eBay.
I have purchased a tub of tablets, with which to treat the black fish, he is still in isolation by the way. I didn't want to return him to the rest as none of the others have shown any sign of any problem at all ever. I will play the waiting game and just 'see', before they go in the pond. And I will have the tabs with which to treat any future problems. All this trouble began as we were building a bigger pond. I moved all my old fish from their old home, 100 gallons small pond in the front garden, to new home 600 gallons formal pond at the back. Then I decided I did not have enough fish, and bought a couple at a time, mostly small, that have lived in a tank in the house while being watched/quarantined and while growing bigger ready for release. As my small pond is empty other than original plants and water, pump still flowing, etc, I an now thinking of releasing the dark fish into that, where he will have more room, can still be observed, and I can treat him safely alone with the Parazin P when it arrives. I guess I have been lucky that I have had enough tanks/ponds to hand, and already had a spare filter in the main tank etc. I do take try to take good advice on board, ready for those 'in-case' occasions.
<Real good>
I have just caught him again for a few pictures. See attached. There is no spike, but it is clear in at least a couple of these, that there are pinkish patches, that today look less like holes - one on the top lip and one on the bottom. During taking these I noticed a pale blob on his face, left hand side below his eye and just forward towards his mouth, again about 1-2mm.
I took about 20 pics, but could not get this blob to show up. I am sure this was not there when I last looked up close, 2 nights ago. I am sorry these photos are not clearer, but you can see their size - the fish is around 6"
nose to tail. Do you think this is anchor worm?
<Can't tell>
I hope you don't mind me asking you look at another fish picture. When moving my fish from the small pond to the larger one I found one of the original fish I had around 7 years ago. Very slim, Orfe in shape, brownish on top with red fins. I rarely see him in the pond as he is nearly invisible, but I was surprised and pleased to see he is still going, alive and well, though surprisingly small for his age, maybe 5" long. The orfes I have grown rapidly in this time, and are always at the surface. Are you able to identify this fish for me?
<No>
Thanks once more for all your help.
Wendy
<B>

goldfish - spot turned into a spike, Lernaea likely 7/28/10
Hi. I hope I am not wasting your time, but I can not find what I am looking for anywhere on the internet. I have a very dark goldfish, almost black, and had him/her in a quarantine tank on it's own for several weeks. I bought it at the local aquarists, where I have previously purchased a tench that had mouth rot and died within a week or so. I should have learnt my lesson and not gone back. The black ones were not selling in their tank and were getting big, so were being sold cheap. Thing is, as the pond fish are sold, more fish come in and they go in the same tank/water, as far as I can tell. I thought that as this black one was big it must have been there a long time and so disease free.
<Mmm, "shop" goldfish are typically festooned with good parasite counts>
It must be around 6 inches including a large flowing tail.
<Likely a "comet" variety... will get bigger if it lives>
Within a day or two of getting it home I could see that it had 2 very pale whitish spots on it's mouth, one on the upper lip and a smaller one on the lower, around 1 to 2mm diameter.
<Could be "just colour">
I didn't really think much of it as the fish has a pale belly, and as nothing seemed wrong I assumed it was just it's colour pigmentation. I have had him at least a month now, and had recently put him into a tank with other goldfish, for observation before release into my pond. So, I was considering freeing him into my pond outside last night, but when feeding him first, I noticed that the spot on the upper lip had formed a spike, very very small, less than 2mm long. It looked like something was protruding from the white area of the white spot, maybe in place of the white spot.
<Mmm, any chance of sending along a well-resolved image of this area, spike?>
I have had goldfish with worms before and have a bottle of Prazi pro
<Mmm, not useful here... as this is likely a "crustacean" parasite... Lernaea, Anchorworm>
in my store cupboard. I have gave him a dose of this, about 24 hours ago, but am really unsure if this the right treatment as I am so far unable to identify the disease, or parasite. I have looked at pictures of anchor worms,
<Oh!>
but I don't think it is this as the 'thing' has not attached itself to the fish, but grown outwards from within.
<This is the life cycle... and do look like "spikes" starting out>
Now I have just caught him into a small transparent box (while emailing you) to have a better look at him, and the white thing seems to have gone, and in place of both the white spots are pinkish bits, looking a bit like pin-prick holes.
<This too can be indicative>
Could the white things have 'gone back in', or come out, or been killed by the treatment?
<Maybe the latter, but I would still treat the system (all fishes in contact) with an organophosphate>
While in this small observation box I have noticed streaks of red in his fins, obviously signs of stress. I wonder if you are able to tell me what this parasite is and whether I may have cured it as I am anxious to get this fish back into a better environment as I don't like to think that it is stressed/diseased.
Obviously may aim is to be able to free it into my pond. Also, should I treat the other fish it was temporarily housed with, I have been reluctant to do so as this larger tank houses snails which I do not want to kill. I do not know if Prazi pro will kill snails.
Any help much appreciated.
Wendy
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/anchorwrmfaqs.htm
and look at the images of the infested goldfish near the bottom... and read the linked files above re treatment. Bob Fenner>
Re: goldfish - spot turned into a spike 7/28/10
Many thanks for your reply and for the links.
Anchor worm is a lot nastier than I thought !!
<Yes... not to be/appear too reverse anthropomorphic, but OUCH!>
After e-mailing you last night, and as the thing(s) had appeared to have dropped off with the use of Prazi pro, I removed all the snails from my big tank containing the fishes pending to go into my pond, and stripped out the gravel and did a thorough clean down, 30% water change, and added Prazi pro to them as well. There are no signs of any health problems with these fish, and I can not find out how long I need to keep an eye on them before I can be sure they are parasite free and OK to release outside. Can you tell me?
<A few weeks>
Thank you for your comments suggesting organophosphates, which I have researched this evening, to find are not available in the UK. I remember I had to order the Prazi pro on the internet from abroad (US I think) as it was not available here, this was a few years ago now, but I can not find anywhere that will ship Dimilin or similar to the UK either.
<I encourage you to ask among your stockists... and/or a Vet. re>
I am keeping a close eye on the dark fish, which appears no different tonight than last night. I have tea tree and salt in my store cupboard, and wondered if these would be of use to fight any infection that may grow due to the holes.
<Not really, no. More likelihood of exacerbating problems by increased stress, decreased biofiltration with their use>
How long should I leave the fish in the Prazi pro treated water?
<... I don't think this vermifuge will do any real good here, but three-four days finds the compound losing potency>
- (And is the possible dropped off thing still alive and able to hop back on?)
<No... but if there are some present on the fish, there may well be intermediate forms in the system itself... Hence the call to remove adults (via tweezers) and treat the water/system>
- as I would like to get him out and into a bigger less stressful space. He is in about 4 gallons at the moment.
<Put in the tank, treat all>
Also, on reading about organophosphates I read they are not suitable for Orfe or tench.
<Are to degrees toxic and tolerable to all>
I have both in my pond, and Orfe in the potentially infected tank. It is likely also that I have released into my pond already, fish that were previously in my tank when for a short while the sick fish was present.
<Ohhhh>
Would the parasite, if it is anchor worm, have been at a contagious stage when I first purchased him, with the only signs a couple of pale spots?
<Possibly, yes... the egg-bound females are quite a bit larger, more obvious>
After a few weeks he went in with the other fish in the big tank for a few days, and then I took some of the fish that were present at that time, out, and released them into the pond. And I thought I was doing such a good job at Quarantine! Still a novice - I have kept pond fish for about 7 years.
I can take some pictures if it would be helpful, but there is no spike to see at the moment.
Thanks for your help.
Wendy
<Let's wait, hope that all is to be well at this point. Cheers, BobF>
Re: goldfish - spot turned into a spike 7/29/10
Thanks.
I am very impressed with your site and the amount of information available to those needing help! Also with the speed of replies - fast help when it is most needed. :-)
<... Wendy... you've sent 13.5 megs of ill-resolved, worthless images... we don't have space for more than a few hundred Kbytes... which is what we ask people to limit theirs to>
Have you heard of parazin P ??
<... yes>
I have been searching for ages for treatment available in the UK for anchor worm, and eventually found this, from
Waterlife, and available on eBay.
I have purchased a tub of tablets, with which to treat the black fish, he is still in isolation by the way. I didn't want to return him to the rest as none of the others have shown any sign of any problem at all ever. I will play the waiting game and just 'see', before they go in the pond. And I will have the tabs with which to treat any future problems. All this trouble began as we were building a bigger pond. I moved all my old fish from their old home, 100 gallons small pond in the front garden, to new home 600 gallons formal pond at the back. Then I decided I did not have enough fish, and bought a couple at a time, mostly small, that have lived in a tank in the house while being watched/quarantined and while growing bigger ready for release. As my small pond is empty other than original plants and water, pump still flowing, etc, I an now thinking of releasing the dark fish into that, where he will have more room, can still be observed, and I can treat him safely alone with the Parazin P when it arrives. I guess I have been lucky that I have had enough tanks/ponds to hand, and already had a spare filter in the main tank etc. I do take try to take good advice on board, ready for those 'in-case' occasions.
<Real good>
I have just caught him again for a few pictures. See attached. There is no spike, but it is clear in at least a couple of these, that there are pinkish patches, that today look less like holes - one on the top lip and one on the bottom. During taking these I noticed a pale blob on his face, left hand side below his eye and just forward towards his mouth, again about 1-2mm.
I took about 20 pics, but could not get this blob to show up. I am sure this was not there when I last looked up close, 2 nights ago. I am sorry these photos are not clearer, but you can see their size - the fish is around 6"
nose to tail. Do you think this is anchor worm?
<Can't tell>
I hope you don't mind me asking you look at another fish picture. When moving my fish from the small pond to the larger one I found one of the original fish I had around 7 years ago. Very slim, Orfe in shape, brownish on top with red fins. I rarely see him in the pond as he is nearly invisible, but I was surprised and pleased to see he is still going, alive and well, though surprisingly small for his age, maybe 5" long. The orfes I have grown rapidly in this time, and are always at the surface. Are you able to identify this fish for me?
<No>
Thanks once more for all your help.
Wendy
<B>

Re: Hi, Guppy, Lernaea, reading - 03/30/10 Hi, thanks for the help that you have given me few weeks ago, I see that some of my fish's health are improving. I also found a pair of anchor worms in one of my female guppies (V shape from her bottom).. I pulled one out with a tweezers. <Yowch! Easy to kill such small fishes with such extraction> but still am trying to pull the other one out..not sure why but that other anchor worm keeps going back into her body when I fish her out to try and pull it out. <Umm, their name is a hint> So far that guppy is in quarantine... <Still need to treat the main system to eradicate the young Anchorworm crustaceans there... lest they develop, infest your other fishes> I removed all fishes that looked sick into a separate tank (each). Any other ways to treat that guppy with the anchor worm or I have to just wait for it to come out and try again till I succeed? <Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/anchorwrmfaqs.htm and the linked files above> Back then a couple of my male guppies have problems opening their fins because of fungus. Right now though...although their fins look fine now..I notice that one of the male started developing something that looks like black patches around the fins and tail...I attached the best picture that I can take..Hope it helps. <And here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gupdisf4.htm and the...> Thank you. <Welcome. BobF>

Calico Fancy Tailed Gold Fish, Lernaea, more hlth. issues 11/24/09
Hi Crew
<Hello,>
Please could you help?
<Will try.>
I purchased a Calico, Red Cap Oranda Gold Fish 18 days ago. He is about 14 centimeters in length.
<Good size!>
He was put into a quarantine, when purchased. Its a 40 liter tank and all basics in water quality have been checked and are good.
<Good? Not in a 40 litre tank they're not. Seriously, this tank IS TOO SMALL for a Goldfish this size. Indeed, it's too small for a Goldfish of any size. I cannot stress this point too strongly. Minimum aquarium size for Goldfish is around 110 litres.>
On close inspection when I got his home I discovered he had 3 anchor worms.
I am treating with Parazin. First treatment of 14 days released 2 of the worms. (I did a 50% water changed after completion of the first 14 day treatment), waited 48 hours, and now have added a second table of Parazin, for a second 14 day treatment to try and rid him of the one stubborn anchor worm. I have also added 1 teaspoon of salt, per 2 liters of water.
<Okay.>
My concern is he also has two dark black foreign clumps of matter, (Never seen this before) about 2 mm in size, embedded into his Wen, both, just above his right eye.
<Black specks on Goldfish are typically ammonia burns. They can be caused by other types of physical damage, but ammonia burns are the most common.
Because the aquarium is so small, I have little doubt that water quality is either the direct cause or aggravating whatever background problem there might be.>
These were present when I bought him, don't seem to worry him and have not changed is size, colour or shape, over the 18 day period. There are no other visible signs of these black crustaceans anywhere on his body. It is more visible with the first 2 days of treatment of using the Parazin, as the flesh directly above these spots, seem to open up a little, giving a visual of the dark black spots embedded into the skin. They are berried about 2mm into the skin. By day 3 of the Parazin treatment, the (Hole) tiny opening seems to close, and the black spots are once again covered by the flesh of his Wen and look like dark black shadows, under his orange Wen, almost undetectable.
He is eating well, has a varied diet of green peas, bloodworm, daphnia, flake and pellets, and on the whole, looks pretty healthy, swimming actively with his dorsal fin extended.
Do you have any idea what this would be? and what and how I could treat it.
<Do read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/goldfish101art.htm
Almost all problems with Goldfish come down to people keeping them badly.>
Your assistance is appreciated ....
Many Thanks
Petrina
<Happy to help. Good luck, Neale.>

PLSS HELP - Something wrong with my Flowerhorn - Unable to diagnose. Env. -- 09/08/09
Hello,
<Hi there>
Something definitely wrong with my Flowerhorn... I will try to be as descriptive as possible..I have not given any pictures in this post.. because picture in this case will not tell you anything...
Background
Tank - 48 X 18 X 18
<In inches I'll take it, not cm.>
Filter - Canister 1200 L/H
Air Curtain for aeration...
Small pebbles in the ground, not as a substrate but more of him to play with...
<At times gravel is useful to necessary to foster biological filtration>
A bog wood - on which the air curtain is tied around
Sunday (August 30th 2009) - Performed a major cleaning of his tank. Cleaned glass, he had quite few number of pebbles as gravel to play with, had to remove some of them, because they were very dirty.. Cleaned the canister medium only partially... changed water over 50%...
<Mmm, I would usually keep such changes to 25-20% maximum>
Wednesday (2nd September) - Got hold of a brand new packet of Ching Mix Sp100 (from US) - Started feeding him in small quantities morning and evening..
Thursday (3rd September) - Noticed an unusual thing in the evening.. FH has passed poo usual in color, but the poo was floating on top of the surface instead of settling down..
<Can be just the food>
Problem
Friday (4th September ) -
Morning - Changed water 20%.. added salt..
<... why? What sort of salt/s? Unless added to raise dKH or such, not necessary or advised with Neotropical Cichlids>
usual appetite for him and usual aggression.. he had his feeding (Ching Mix)
Evening - Went home to see him lying on corner of the tank.. color darkened.. The whole tank is spread with this Poo.. very unusual for a FH poo.. not continuous, but small granule like structure, black in color spread all across the tank floor...
Performed water change once again, cleaned the mess and added salt.... felt that he also had trouble in swimming... (is that a swim bladder??)
<...? No>
Saturday (5th Sep) -
Morning - Color improved... no signs of stress, but most of the time resting down...when swimming, swimming is normal.. tried showing him his food packet.. he became excited for feeding.. did not fed him though - Diagnosis, may be minor constipation... Stomach slightly bloated..Thought I should be stopping Ching Mix...
<I would>
Evening - Situation remained same.. Throughout this day, he did not passed any poo...
On account of heavy rainfall where I live...temperature of the tank was showing 27.4 degrees, Changed water 20%, added heater, salt, had set the temp to 30 degrees.. Did not fed him for the whole day...
Sunday (6th Sep) -
Morning - Still no sign of improvement.. most of the time resting below, he comes up only when someone approaches his tank.. But he had appetite...No food... Water change 20%, added salt
<Don't add salt>
Evening - Situation remained same...resting down.. not passing any poo... Tried him 1 pellet soaked in water.. I had to find out what was wrong... he ate that single pellet literally gulped it (Hikari cichlid staple)... Moment after consuming the pellet, vertical black stripes appeared out of no where and he went down to rest in the corner...
Monday (7th Sep) -
Morning - found him resting below, color darkened.. Started Metronidazole treatment... Metrogyl 400 mg dissolve in luke warm water, pellets soaked in that solution for 15 min.s.. fed him.. usual appetite, usual aggression while feeding... once completed, body turned black.. went down to rest...
Evening - Went home, found him resting on a corner.. he has passed Poo - this time normal in structure but dark yellow in color? When someone approaches, he swims fine... otherwise whole day resting in a corner - Stomach bloating disappeared...
Water change 20%, added Salt
<...>
Tuesday (8th Sep - Today) -
Morning, same situation resting, dark stripes in the body... fed him few pellets with Metrogyl soaked... He has passed Poo, small in quantity but dark yellow in color
Help me guys what is going wrong??
<Salt... water quality likely, some toxicity...>
1. Looking at his swimming pattern - he does not have a swim bladder...
<... Cichlids do have such>
Sometimes he jumps to catch the pellet..
2. Internal Infection - He is not passing any white poo
3. Stomach is not bloated...
4. Immediately after food, the dark stripes come in, remains for some time and then disappear..
Does he have a internal blockage???
<Doubtful>
One point wanted to mention here -- The bottom edges of his tank is covered with some kind of a yellow/white film which I thought was water mark on silicon gel..The fellow who prepared this tank had actually emptied 1 full silicon gun on my repeated warnings of leak...
<... When was this done? What sort of Silicon/Silastic was used? Some has mildewcide in it... for window use... is toxic. Could be at fault here>
This yellow/white kind of things keeps coming out from those edges, specially when i change water or when there is a turbulence... some part gets sucked by the canister, some again settles in the bottom...
Since yesterday I am also observing the same kind of this thing is hanging from this dorsal fin.. ?? Is he also having an fungal infection?? This is a new symptom came out of no where
Some ideas friends --- I am fearing, that I should not be late in corrections.. he still has appetite for food... if he looses that, then the damage would be done already...
Regards
Nimo
<Do get hold of the Silicon cartridge, read what the intended use is. Bob Fenner>

Re: PLSS HELP - Something wrong with my Flowerhorn - Unable to diagnose Lernaea? 9/10/09
Hi Bob,
<Subhankar>
First of all thanks for stepping in to help me out
<Sure>
Update on the situation...
Yesterday I had first roller coaster ride in my 10 yrs of hobby..
The diagnosis was wrong..
I observed him sulking in a corner in a slanting position.. I observed him lethargic, I observed him turning dark in color.. so the first idea which anyone gets is an internal stomach problem...
But the confusion was
1. He had the usual appetite
2. His stomach was not bloated
3. He was passing poo normal in color
Tuesday (8th September 2009)
Evening - I observed whenever he sulks, he sulks in the same position in whichever corner of the tank he chooses... He sits in a posture where both his pelvic fins are covered in the ground, I also observed that he has a very mild movement pattern sitting in the same position, as if swinging like a pendulum...
I observed he had two red scars in his pelvic fin and a pure white thread like structure 1 inch in length hanging from both the scars - Worst part is that thread has a sac like structure or a ball at the end....
Wednesday (9th September 2009)
Morning - Saw the thread like structure has disintegrated from one of the scars, one still has a reminent, very small in size..
Three new white pimple like structure arrived on his tail.. they were new... looks like some kind of a white pimple...
Afternoon - My all doubts were Anchor worm, ...
<Ahh! A too-common parasite for pond-raised fishes, or kept with, fed fishes from...>
I had seen this before with one of my friend's goldies, So i knew how does an Anchor worm look like so, at the same time was not aware of what is the commercially available medicine, whether will get it in shorter time.. from anywhere..
He was always sitting in bottom, in a posture, which used to cover both of his scars.. and he used to move some time to and fro as if rubbing those scars...
Decided to go for KMNO4 (PP) treatment..
<Mmm, not for Lernaea... Better the organophosphate route... DTHP or Dimilin... Please read here re: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/anchorwrmfaqs.htm
and the linked files above. You will need to extract/remove the adults on the fish itself with tweezers>
Had a 23 litres tank - dosage of 10mg/litre of PP, prepared a PP concentrated solution (25 mg in 500 ml of distilled water) and had put 5 ml of that in the 23 litres tank resulting in 230 mg of PP...
<Potassium permanganate is too strong an oxidizer for "casual use"... too easy to serious burn fishes>
Transferred the FH into that tank, and allowed him to be there for 20 minutes with heavy aeration...
By god's grace he took the treatment well.. he was swimming.. all through the treatment... there was heavy bubbling inside the tank.. the clean water of PP was filled up with very small disintegrated particles....
After 20 minutes took him out to a freshwater tub...
Cleaned his hospital tank thoroughly, filled - refilled twice,, and had put him back again....in his small hospital bed
<Good>
Then came the easy but the most tedious part.. had to again disinfect his 300 litres tank with KMNO4... this time did not measured the KMNO4 amount.. just poured it liberally in the tank with all decors inside... allowed the tank to sit for 30 minutes.. with PP solution...
<Yikes... stains most all. I would have used hypochlorite/chlorine bleach... Per the protocol detailed on WWM>
Then cleaned all his decor, refilled and cleaned 300 lites twice, till i was sure not a trace of KMNO4 was visible... poured it up with water, dechlorinator, salt started heavy aeration for 4 hours.. then transferred him back to his main home..
Immly he became white, all colors gone.. fed him two pellets, switched off the lights,
Thursday (10 th September) - today morning
Colors got back to normal...he ate pellets, active than before but still relatively lethargic..
<But... did you remove the adult Anchorworms/Crustaceans from the fish?>
Out of 5 pimples, 2 have vanished, 1 still exists, remaining 2 has very slight traces.. I am just hoping, that those are dead by now and would vanish in 2 - 3 days time..
I will be keeping a close watch on him...
Now the million dollar question i have, is how did this thing entered in my tank..
On last Sunday (30th Sep) - I did a major cleaning of both of my 4 feet tanks.. Till now i do not see anything to my Malawi Setup.. but the FH got affected..
I had kept him in a very good condition - I know difficult to believe, but people who have seen him as regarded my tank as one of most clean ones..
but still ...
I just hope that I am done.. and these remaining small spores would go away with Salt and temperature and I do not have to treat him with PP once again...
Had to do this, because these damn freaks were sucking all that I was feeding him...
Just hope he pulls through...
<Me too>
Regards
Subhankar
<Thank you for sharing your experiences... observations and reactions. Bob Fenner>

Dalmatian Molly, dis.; was: platies 8/27/09
Thank you again. I have another quick question about my Dalmatian molly.
She is about 2 months old or so and has developed this whisker like thing on her "nose". It looks stiff and about 1/8 in. long or so it actually splits into 2 but comes from one spot on top of her "nose " area. Is this
something to worry about - a parasite or just an abnormal growth.
<More than likely dead skin, and as such, a possible precursor to Finrot.
In the case of Mollies, the number-1 cause of such problems is keeping them in the wrong environmental conditions. Mollies do best in hard, basic water with a little marine salt mix added, around 3-6 grammes per litre being ideal. Marine salt mix (as opposed to the largely useless "livebearer salt", "tonic salt", or "aquarium salt" on sale) contains not just salt but also minerals that harden the water and raise the pH. The overall effect is to create slightly brackish conditions that suit Mollies extremely well.
Whilst Mollies are found in freshwater habitats for the most part in the wild, and less often in brackish and marine habitats, for whatever reason, they do best in saline conditions when kept in captivity. There are several explanations about this, but the most probable answers are to do with the stable basic pH and the reduced toxicity of nitrite and nitrate in salty rather than freshwater conditions. If you read through our Molly disease FAQs, you'll see this issue comes up again and again, and the only explanation can be that people buy them before reading any books first: practically every aquarium book written since the dawn of time has stated clearly that Mollies prefer slightly salty conditions. Anyway, my advice would be to add marine salt mix (e.g., Instant Ocean, or whatever generic marine salt mix brand your pet store sells) at the dose suggested above.
Other livebearers won't mind this, and in fact are likely to be healthier, particularly Guppies, though Platies and Swordtails aren't from brackish water habitats and won't appreciate the addition of marine salt mix above 6 grammes/litre. At this dose, you'll find using marine salt mix very economical: you're using about a sixth the amount used in marine tanks, so a box suitable for 20 gallons of marine strength salt water will make 120 gallons of water for a Molly aquarium. Most hard water tolerant plants will adapt fine, but most freshwater fish will not, but then, as is clearly stated on WWM numerous times as well as in practically every aquarium book ever written, you don't keep Mollies in community tanks. They aren't community fish, and never have been. The fact they often need saline conditions simply makes them untenable for such systems, though they work brilliantly well in livebearer, brackish water, and even marine community
tanks. I'd even argue that Mollies are such beautiful fish, and in the cases of Sailfin Mollies, so very large when properly cared for, that they amply deserve a tank all their own.>
She eats and acts fine with no other signs of distress. Thanks for your time. Donna
<Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Dalmatian Molly; was: platies. Dis., Lernaea? 8/29/2009
Hi Neale,
I found that not only does the molly have this thing but one of the baby platies has one hanging from it's bottom. I thought it was feces. At closer observation it looks like a Y comes from one spot and splits to a y
shape. I have gotten the salt - should I just continue with that and nothing else? I also had the water tested and it is fine. Again thanks for the input to a very novice aquarist.
Donna
<Donna, the shape is *strongly* suggestive of something like an external crustacean parasite. Google "anchor worms", "Argulus", and "fish louse" to see what you get. In general, these are best removed by [a] dipping the fish in a seawater solution (35 grammes non-iodised salt added to a litre of aquarium water) and then [b] forceps used to gently pull the parasite off. Maintaining the aquarium at SG 1.003 to 1.005 (6 to 9 grammes marine salt mix or tonic salt per litre) should also do the trick. If you're maintaining the tank as a brackish water aquarium, then raising the salinity using marine salt mix should shift the parasites, but if it
doesn't, then use forceps. Grip the parasite as closely as possible to the fish's body, holding the fish firmly without squeezing. Don't rush! If you dip the fish in seawater for one to twenty minutes, the parasite should
weaken, making this easier. Clean the wound with antiseptic (something like a dab of iodine or even Melafix) when done. Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Dalmatian Molly; was: platies, Lernaea 8/28/2009
Hi Neale
Yup that's exactly what it looks like when I Googled it.
<Very good.>
My concern is actually removing the thing. I'm nervous about taking the fish out and hurting it.
<May well "hurt" as you pull the thing out, but much less dangerous (or painful) than the constant sucking of blood.>
Is there anything special I need to do, do I just hold it in between my fingers?
<Not fingers; must be forceps, or something similar, like tweezers. Have you ever removed a tick from a dog? Not dissimilar; must remove whole thing, including mouthparts, taking care not to snap the body in two and so allow secondary infections. Your aquarium shop may sell certain Anchor Worm specific medications, e.g., Anchors Away, but these are often fairly toxic in themselves, and can harm sensitive fish (e.g., Loaches, Catfish) as well as invertebrates (snails, shrimps). They aren't always effective, either.>
I have the Melafix also - do I just apply only once after pulling it out or do I repeat that until the wound heals - or should I just add the Melafix to the tank after wards also. I do also have the stress coat stuff to add
to the tank for the slime - is that also suggested?
<I'd dab a little neat Melafix with a Q-tip onto the wound, and then dose the tank as suggested by the instructions. Stress Coat shouldn't be required, and in fact I recommend against mixing two or medications unless you know it is safe to do so.>
I was hoping that with the salt treatment it would fall off but of course it did not.
<How much salt did you add? At one extreme, if you transferred Mollies to a marine aquarium (or similar added 35 grammes marine salt mix/litre water) the Anchor Worms would quickly die. In a freshwater tank you can add up to a specific gravity of 1.005, or 9 grammes salt per litre, which should certainly weaken the parasites without harming salt-tolerant fish like Platies as well as Mollies. Of course, non-salt-tolerant fish may not accept such conditions for long.>
My other question is do I have to do anything else to ensure that the anchor worm is gone from the tank?
<There's no 100% reliable way, but usually removing the worms you see, and if any others occur afterwards, removing those, breaks the cycle.>
A 25% water change I'm guessing.
<Won't do much of anything against Anchor Worms, since these are attached to fish, not swimming about.>
Also is there anything I need else I need to do to ensure recovery of the fish?
<Usually the fish recover very well.>
I know nothing is "for sure" but I want to give it as good of a shot as possible. We haven't added any new fish - besides the babies - in quite some time I'm wondering how this parasite got in.
<Typically, Anchor Worms breed in ponds, and in the case of livebearing fish, this would have been outdoors on a farm in Florida or wherever.>
Any ideas on how not to get a re infestation?
<Observe new fish carefully, quarantine them, and if you see Anchor Worms, remove them before placing them in the main aquarium. Anchor Worms are actually pretty rare among aquarium fish, though they are more common on pond fish.>
Sorry for sooo many questions but as I've said I feel there is no better site than yours and trust everything you suggestion. Again thank you for your time and patience.
Donna
<Happy to help. Good luck, Neale.>

Re: Dalmatian Molly; was: platies, Lernaea 8/30/2009
Hello again Neale,
<He's marked "out till Tues.>
I added the salt as per the recommendation on the bag. Just to make it slightly brackish for the molly. We have all platies except for the one molly who we've had as a fry and who just appeared in our tank one day. We had an adult who had passed a while before hand due to ick but must have been pregnant. Anyway 2 adult platies, 2 platy babies ,one baby molly and a clown Pleco in a 29 gallon tank. All but one baby platy has an anchor worm. I will try removing the ones I see and let you know.
<Do take care here, with their extraction... the adults' removal can/does cause a great to mortal amount of damage. Read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/anchorwrmfaqs.htm
and the linked files above; particularly re the use of organophosphates>
But as I stated before a bit worried about doing that. I was wondering how to hold the fish actually - with my fingers or laying him out on the net?
<The net>
Will this just stress them out?
<Will>
As you can tell a really new fish hobby. But if I don't ask I won't learn!
I really appreciate your time. I'm just wondering if the anchor worm has eggs and more develop - that was the reason I questioned about doing the water change.
Again thanks Donna
<My sis' name... whom I'm moving an armoire with currently. Bob Fenner>

Re: Dalmatian Molly; was: platies 8/30/2009
Thanks Bob,
texting and moving an armoire at the same time - nice multi-tasking!
Donna
<Donna, Bob, just wasting time at CVG airport. Thanks for taking the time to answer this query, Bob. Donna, yes, removing lice is tricky but not difficult, and dipping in saltwater, as mentioned earlier, weakens the crustacean sufficiently that removal isn't hard. Will bow to Bob's better knowledge of organophosphate insecticides for treatment, but my understanding is that these have reduced/zero impact on "attached" lice. It
is telling that much research in aquaculture is towards "manual" removal via cleaner organisms; in the UK, the favoured "cleaner fish" on salmon farms being juvenile wrasse, analogous to cleaner wrasse behaviour in the tropics. Cheers, Neale.>

medication, Lernaea
Hi crew, a quick question about medicating my tank. I had medicated it for anchor worm - which didn't work
<... doesn't work on embedded adults>
so now onto pulling them out manually, but replaced the filter to get the medicine out. How long is this process because after I attempt to remove the anchor worms I was told to apple Melafix
<... no>
on the spots and treat tank with the Melafix for about a week. If I do that I have to take the carbon out of the filter. So I want to make sure all the medication is out first. Thanks for any input. D
<Depending on the quality of the carbon employed, the amount, volume of the tank, circulation through it... a few hours. BobF>

Re: Dalmatian Molly; was: platies, Lernaea 9/1/2009
Hi crew,
I removed the anchor worms with tweezers but not really sure if the head came with it.
<Is distinctive...>
I tried my hardest to get the fish still but of course one jumped as I was pulling and not sure if the whole thing came out. The anchor worms were all in uneasy areas (right next to fins and one by the mouth) and hope I didn't harm the fish, they are very hard to distinguish between when they are out of the tank everything is so translucent. They all seem shaken by the ordeal as I am also. If I didn't successfully remove the head can I say these fish will eventually die?
<Mmm, no; not necessarily>
I used the Melafix on them and am treating the tank with it also. Now just wait and see? I'm so upset by this whole endeavor. What else needs to be done? Thanks for your time and patience - kind regards Donna
<When, where in doubt, keep reading. B>

Re: Dalmatian Molly; was: platies, Lernaea 9/1/2009
Hello AGAIN,
I'm glad to hear that they may not die, I last spoke with Neale who suggested using the Melafix after wards is this a sufficient tonic for recovery.
<Ah, no, perhaps I wasn't clear. It is standard practise after physically removing Anchor Worms and other "skin biting" parasites to dab the wound with an antiseptic such as iodine. If you have Melafix, then this might be used in the same way, as a topical antiseptic, or perhaps added to the water to reduce the chances of secondary infection. In and of itself, Melafix won't cure Anchor Worms, and as Bob is intimating, Melafix isn't altogether reliable, and you may still find the wounds become sites of secondary infection, in which case an appropriate anti-bacterial or anti-fungal would be used.>
Is there a different solution? I got a different answer from Bob. Needless to say they are tight finned right now and not looking happy. I had put some Cycle in this morning - suppose to help with fish loss? Anyway I'll heed any info you throw at me. Have read all the FAQs about the anchor fish on your site but will take any other info if you have. Again thanks for your knowledge sharing! Donna
<Physically removing parasites from fish shouldn't cause undue stress,
<<!? Lernaea extraction I've seen cause outright death... being netted, handled, having a large (%) mass removed from the body, bleeding... RMF>>
and usually they recover quite rapidly from the stress of being removed from the tank and handled. The chances of secondary infection aren't great, but it does happen, hence the need to keep your eyes open for signs of bacterial or fungal growth. Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Dalmatian Molly; was: platies 9/1/2009
Hi thanks again, I see that most of the fish are back to normal from being on the bottom to up and swimming around and eating.
<Good.>
One in particular is swimming about at the top head up tail down clenched fins. Should I be worried.
<Yes, particularly if it doesn't show signs of improving over the next day or so.>
And lastly should I continue for the recommended 7 days with the Melafix in the tank or should I use the Cycle instead or along with the Melafix?
<Don't Melafix and Cycle do different things? Nutrafin Cycle is a largely useless product that is supposed to improve the performance of biological filters and (supposedly) speeds up the rate at which new filters become colonised by bacteria. I'd be surprised if it did much of either, frankly, but I'm sure of the many ways to spend money, it's among the more harmless.
So if you want to use it, go ahead, but it isn't going to make your fish healthier or a properly maintained and mature filter any better. Melafix is a tea-tree oil solution that has mild anti-bacterial and anti-fungal
properties. Some aquarists swear by it, but others, including Bob, are much more critical. I can certainly report that many aquarists who have used Melafix still go on to have bacteria or fungal problems, so at best, it's an unreliable "cure".>
cheers to you! Donna
<Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Dalmatian Molly; was: platies 9/1/2009
Ok cool I'll just use the Melafix - you know I'll always listen to you guys rather than the supposed fish experts at the LFS.
<I'm glad we can help.>
What should I do about the one I should be worried about - she's eating (a little) but no signs of anything on her body just the hanging out at the top and tail down.
<Is this a Molly or a Platy? With Mollies, fin-clamping is a common symptom of stress, sometimes to do with water chemistry or water quality, but sometimes because they're too cold. Oddly, while Mollies are subtropical to tropical fish in the wild, with a very broad temperature tolerance (they live as far north as the Carolinas in the US) the tank-bred forms need really warm conditions to do well, quite a bit warmer than the average community fish. So whereas Platies thrive best around 24 C/75 F, Mollies are usually better kept a bit warmer, around 26-28 C/79-82 F.>
The one and only male is definitely feeling better because he's "courting" her again and bothering her to no end.
<Clumps of floating plants will help.>
Didn't take long for him to be up and running.
<Indeed! Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Dalmatian Molly; was: platies... Lernaea f' 9/5/09
Hello,
I'm at a loss again they seem to be making a turn for the worst - hanging at the bottom and when they do come up for food their heads are up tails down. But they are eating. Any advice on what to do?
<Keep checking water quality, being observant>
Not sure of what's wrong. There are no visible sign of anything physical just that I extracted the anchor worms so could that be the problem? They are flashing on things too. Thanks for any advice. Donna
<Maybe. RMF>

Anchor worms and quarantine 6/4/09
Hi
<Hello,>
I've poked around on the web, but haven't found anything that can answer my question. On Monday I bought 2 new goldfish, a calico fantail (3cm) and a orange-and-white fantail (4cm), to add to my 10 gallon with a 6cm fantail (upgrading to 60gal at the end of the month).
<Glad to hear you upgrading this tank! Ten gallons isn't nearly enough for three Goldfish.>
I've had that fantail for a year and a half, with no problems. This morning (Thursday) I noticed that there are thin string-like things on the tips of the white-and-orange fantail's tail, he also has a scale that is dark (looks like a wound) that I noticed when I bought him home.
<Now, there are three things to think about here. The first is some type of external parasite like Anchor Worm, just as you suggest. But the two other things to consider are Finrot and Fungus. Finrot erodes fin tissue, leaving behind what we call fin rays (the bones) until these snap off. It's actually very common for Finrot to take the appearance of receding fins and trailing fin rays. Fungus is characterized by the presence of the hyphae that make up the "body" of the fungus, and these look like cotton wool threads. They can, in some instances, be quite long, over 1 cm. So that's another thing to think about. Both Finrot and Fungus are latent in all aquaria, even well maintained ones, since the bacteria and fungi responsible normally do good work breaking down waste materials.
Consequently they have the potential to come out of nowhere when conditions turn bad in the aquarium. Anchor Worm, and indeed most of the other large external parasites, have complex life cycles that cannot be completed in aquaria. They only really become problems in ponds, and because Goldfish are farmed in ponds, it's newly imported fish that are likely to carry them. Once exterminated, Anchor Worms rarely turn up in aquaria ever again.>
I've done some reading about Anchorworms and I've decided to quarantine him, because he doesn't seem to have any other wounds where the worms could've reproduced. Should I keep him in quarantine and treat him, or should I treat the main tank?
<Quarantine, treat and observe the fish until you are happy he is no longer infected. Free living parasites could potentially hitchhike from the quarantine tank to the display tank via buckets, nets, etc. so take care to
isolate the two tanks as fully as possible. Disinfect buckets, nets, etc. using a strong brine solution (50 g/litre cooking salt should do the trick). Anchor Worms are normally treated using organophosphate insecticides to kill the free living stages, with the adults ideally removed by hand. This is fairly tricky to do, but worthwhile if the insecticide isn't killing the adults quickly. Place the goldfish in a waterlogged towel, wrap the fish securely to hold it firmly, and then pull away the adult Anchor Worm using forceps from its head, NOT it's tail (it's a lot like removing ticks from dogs, if you've ever done that). Dab the wound with some sort of antiseptic such as mercurochrome, iodine, tea-tree oil, etc. It would be a very good idea to use something like tea-tree oil proactively in the aquarium once you're finished to prevent secondary infection, though if only the tail fins are affected, the risk of trouble is very small. You may decide to dip the Goldfish in seawater for a few minutes prior to manual removal of the parasites; although this won't cause serious harm to the Goldfish, and doesn't kill the parasite, it does weaken the parasite, making it easier to remove them. Make up seawater using 35 g per litre non-iodised cooking salt or aquarium salt; don't use regular
marine aquarium mix because that raises the pH and hardness, which won't be appreciated by the Goldfish. Dip the fish using a net, and leave for several minutes, potentially 15 minutes, but remove the fish at once if it
shows signs of distress such as rolling over. You can now pull of the Anchor Worms a bit more easily than otherwise. After a couple of weeks, if there's no sign of any more parasites on the fish, and you've finished the treatment of insecticide, you can then move the Goldfish into the display tank.>
I know this isn't fin rot, there is nothing else wrong with his fins or with him, he's eating and swimming....
Thanks for your time!
Nadine (South Africa)
<Hope this helps, Neale.>

Anchor worm and platy fry 12/30/08 Good evening, <Hi,> I'm new to the hobby and about a month ago I introduced a female wagtail platy into my cycled tank. Little did I know, I soon had a brood of fry :) Wanting to ensure the safety of the fry and it being a well planted tank, I moved the mother to another tank. <Floating plants the way to go with these livebearers; instinctively the fry seek shelter in the leaves/roots of floating plants, and it's easy to see them there and scoop them out. The fine roots of species such as Limnobium trap algae and organic detritus, providing lots of good "grazing" for Platies, both newborn and adult.> A few days later, in the fry tank, I noticed small crustaceans which I first thought we daphnia--either way the fry were happily eating them! After a lot of reading on my new hobby, I spotted a male adult anchor worm in the tank today. Needless to say, I removed the little b*****! <Are you sure it's an Anchor Worm? Actually NOT AT ALL common in aquaria, and while can be introduced on live food collected from a garden pond, unlikely to come from farmed Daphnia bought in a reputable pet store. Because Anchor Worms need intermediate hosts to complete their life cycle, they die off eventually in aquaria, rarely reaching population sizes large enough to do any serious harm.> I've seen spotted a couple of adult female anchor worms in there and they have gotten the same treatment.. My question is with the platy fry being about two weeks old and only about 4 millimeters (excluding tail) can the anchor worms do any damage or should I treat the tank or move the fry to another tank? <In theory at least, Anchor Worms can harm any fish, in part as parasites themselves, but more seriously by creating wounds that can become infected. But I honestly don't believe this is the issue here. Portions of live food from the pet store may contain other crustaceans alongside Daphnia, some of which might be mistaken for Anchor Worms. They're difficult to treat without recourse to insecticides such as metriphonate, but in an aquarium, the cycle is broken anyway, so there shouldn't be a long term problem.> Thanks for a great web site and, of course, any help, Sam <Cheers, Neale.>

Goldfish Parasite 11/07/08 Hello crew. Recently I looked at my goldfish and noticed sort of a white thing sticking out of his skin. It looks sort of like a pimple. I researched, but I could not find a picture that looked like the parasite on my fish. Can it be some type of anchor worm? Are there many different species, because this parasite does not look exactly like the pictures online. For example, it does not have a forked tail. What should I do? Pull it off? In the meantime, I dosed the tank with a 0.3% concentration of salt. Hopefully it will kill the parasite. Thanks. <Greetings. Anchor worms are very distinctive, and obviously look like small black anchors stuck to the body of the fish. They're pretty uncommon in aquaria, and are more of a pond thing. Anyway, fish can get "pimples" for all kinds of reasons. Goldfish have spawning tubercles on the face when sexually mature, and many aquarists mistake these for parasites. Small wounds cause by rough objects in the tank or careless handling can develop into little blisters. These usually go away by themselves, but treating for Finrot/Fungus proactively isn't a bad idea. Whitespot and Velvet both form white cysts on the skin. Dead skin looks like white fragments; Finrot looks similar but with red inflammation, while Fungus looks like white cotton threads. There are also things called Fish Lice (Argulus) that may be observed as round, off-white parasites on the skin. These are also a pond rather than aquarium problem most of the time. In other words, without a better description or a sharp photograph, we can't diagnose the problem. I've listed the more probable explanations here: now spend some time researching each of them to diagnose the problem yourself. Cheers, Neale.>

Salt- Koi- Goldfish... and Anchorworm evidently 8/5/08 Dear WetWeb Crew, Could someone there tell me the correct amount of salt to use for medicinal purposes-salt bathes. My Koi and Gold fish have a parasite on them. It looks like a barb or needle sticking out of the base of the dorsal fin. Also how long should I leave them in the salt solution. I would greatly appreciate your help. Thanks for your time. John. <The following is a table modified from "The Interpet Manual of Fish Health", a useful little book: --- 0.1% (1 gramme per litre): General additive for livebearers or in tanks where fish show physical damage (i.e., lesions, fin damage). Use in the aquarium. 0.3% (3 g/l): Reduces nitrite toxicity or to treat physical damage. Use in the aquarium. 0.3-0.5% (3-5 g/l): To control Hydra. Use in the aquarium for no more than 5 to 7 days, then change water to gradually reduce salinity. 1% (10 g/l): To treat ulcer disease on coldwater fish. Acclimate fish gradually and then reduce salinity gradually once fish are cured. 2-3% (20-30 g/l): To remove leeches from pond fish. Use as a bath, with fish put into bath for 15-30 minute dips. --- In you case, it sounds like you have leeches or anchor worm. Salt dips will certainly deal with leeches, but anchor worms will need a specific treatment of some sort. Salt won't help because the free-living stages are in the water column, so even if the adults are killed, another generation of anchor worms will find their way onto your fish. See here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PondSubWebIndex/contrpdparasit.htm Your local pond supplier may well have a variety of other treatments available. Cheers, Neale.>

Spots on my Kissing Gourami, likely lernaeids -12/14/07 Hello, <Stephanie> I have had a kissing Gourami for a couple of years now but over the last few days it has developed about some spots which I put down to a bacterial infection <Mmmm> and so I've been treating with a fungus, Finrot and bacteria treatment. But the spots, which appear to be only on one side of it's body have turned a peachy/orange colour and each seems to have something like a black barb type thing sticking out of it - almost like a splinter. <Ahh!> There are approximately 5 of these spots and they are in different places on the body and one near the eye. The fish seems to be well enough at the moment it is eating and behaving as usual. Do you have any idea what this might be? <I do... most likely a lernaeid, aka Anchorworm... Please see here re: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwcrustdisfaqs.htm and the linked files above. Had you recently added "something live" (new fish, FW food, plants) to this system? The parasite had to have been added some how... See Google Images for the common name as well... Cheers, Bob Fenner> Many thanks, Stephanie
Re: Spots on my Kissing Gourami -12/14/07 Bob, <Steph> Thanks so much for your response. Thanks for the link and "yuk" it looks like Anchorworm! I bought some new plants about a week ago. So, up go my sleeves! <Ahh!> I've pulled the things off with tweezers and now breathe a sigh of relief - so does my Gourami! <I'll say!> I've bought a bottle of parasiticide which I'll have to administer tomorrow as I have been treating the fish for a bacterial infection and it says to wait 48 hours before using. <Good> Thanks so much for you swift response and the link - much appreciated! Stephanie <Welcome my friend. BobF>

Newbie /anchor worms and Camallanus worms, FW 12/12/07 Dear Crew, First let me apologize in advance for any posting errors. I have never posted anything before. I have read just about everything I could find on your site and the web, and still haven't found a clear answer to my question. <Welcome> My eight year old son and I are relative newbies to freshwater aquariums, but we are learning fast. Several months ago, we got a 5 gallon aquarium, with one live dwarf Amazon sword plant. We have a small under gravel filter from our previous 2 gallon tank, a small heater and a corner box filter, air pump (suitable for up to 10 gallon tanks). There is a tiny snail, which I have only seen once. I assume it came with the plant, and I don't know if it is still alive. After a couple of weeks we got 1 fancy guppy. We had him about three weeks, and then got another guppy and an Otocinclus. We did not quarantine (a lesson which I have since learned), I also learned about water testing around this time. Within a couple of days, the new guppy died of fin and tail rot, and the Oto had ich. I treated the tank with MelaFix and malachite green. <Better to simply elevate temperature here.> The Oto struggled with ich off and on for several weeks, and eventually died. Throughout all this, the original guppy appeared healthy. As I learned about water testing during this time, we have been at ammonia 0, nitrites 0, nitrates 2.5-5, ph 7.6-8.0. now for several weeks. We waited several more weeks, before attempting to get any more fish, and on 11/24/07 decided to get 2 more Otos to help with the algae. <Mmm, I would not place Otocinclus in such a small volume, with such a high pH... better to seek out other means of algae control. Posted on WWM> They are currently quarantined, and so far appear healthy. The day we brought home the new Otos, I discovered a parasite hanging off the side off the guppy. After investigating on line, I am sure it was an anchor worm. I removed the box filter/charcoal and I started to treat with Jungle Parasite Clear, which said it was good for anchor worms <... but adults, on host fish/es... must need be physically removed...> and would not harm the plant like Coppersafe. The anchor worm fell off, leaving a gaping wound in the side of the guppy. Despite this, he continued to eat and was active. A few days later, several red worms protruded from his anus, and one from the gaping hole in his side. After more searching on line, I am sure from the photos I have seen on line that he had Camallanus worms. <Mmm... no... these Nematodes are stark white, round in cross section... Likely what you are seeing are other/new Anchorworms...> I continued to treat with the Jungle Parasite Clear which contains Praziquantel, Diflubenzuron, Metronidazole, and Acriflavine. <Mmm... none of these will treat for, kill Lernaeids... Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwcrustdisfaqs.htm and the linked FAQs file above on Organophosphate Use> This appeared to have no effect on the worms, and the fish has now finally died (whether from the worms or the wound). So my basic questions are these? <Likely crustacean... Anchorworms> What do I treat the tank with to ensure anchor worms (which I know is not a worm) and Camallanus worms (theoretically they have a 30 day life cycle) are gone (since the Jungle Parasite Clear didn't appear to treat the worms)? <Not worms... just appear worm-like> What is safe for the plant? <Please read the above...> Is the snail an intermediary host? <Mmm, no> How long do I need to wait, keeping in mind I have 2 Otos in quarantine, waiting for all the algae in the tank. Do I need to take down the whole set up and sterilize and start over? <Mmm, possibly the best approach here now> If so, how? <See here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clnaqfaqs.htm> How do I keep the bacteria going in the tank since there are now no fish in there? <They will be there> Thank you in advance for your advice. I have learned much from your site. I wanted to introduce my son to the pleasures of an aquarium, and all he has seen so far is a bunch of parasites and sick fish. I realize we have just a tiny set up, but I had an aquarium when I was growing up, and I wanted him to have the same pleasure it gave me. I'd just like to get the new Otos settled. We know the 1 inch per gallon of water rule, so we know we can only have a few small fish, but we want them to be healthy, happy fish. Thanks again for your help. Vida <Thank you for writing so well... Clearly and completely. I want to state, make it known to you that the difficulties you and your animals are suffering are not of your origination... The livestock you have received has been infested, compromised... and not easily cured by anyone's efforts. I would either bleach-wash and start over here, moving the water from the Quarantine along with the Otocinclus... and feed carefully till the system is established. Otherwise, Clout (tm), Fluke Tabs (tm), other DTHP or Dimilin containing pesticide can be added... Do please write back if you have further concerns, issues. Bob Fenner>
Re: newbie /anchor worms and Camallanus worms 12/18/07 Mr. Fenner, <Vida> Thank you for your prompt reply. I think I will take every thing down and bleach it out. Is there any way to save the plant? <Yes... can be peremptorily dipped/bathed in an alum and water solution... See WWM, the Net re> We like having a live plant as opposed to plastic. Likewise, how does one safely add new live plants, as I realize they can introduce parasites? <Rare, but yes... most all that is wet can/may> If we are starting all over, we will probably add another plant or two, and definitely don't want to introduce any new parasites. The Otos in quarantine appear healthy and thriving, and my son would like them in the tank. Here are some photo links, which show the photos why I believe the fish had Camallanus. This looked very different from the anchor worm on its side, and definitely appeared to be multiple red worms in the anus. They would pull in and appear much shorter at some times than at others. The anchor worm did not do this, it was the same until it fell off and left the wound on the side of the fish. My husband, who has a background in biology and a PhD in genetics, also felt that the organisms protruding from the anus were Camallanus and not the same as the anchor worm. http://www.inkmkr.com/Fish/CamallanusTreatment/experience.html http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/2897/parasiteen0.jpg http://www.gaem.it/pubblico/articoli/malattiepesci/Camallanus/camallanus03.jpg <I must commend you on your photographs. Some are very nice indeed... These do appear to be Nematodes... reddish from feeding likely> I had tried elevating the temperature of the tank to between 85-90 degrees (normally it is at 76 degrees) and adding a small amount of aquarium salt for the ich, but was conservative with this because of the plant and the oto. The pH of the aquarium was running 7.2-7.6 before treating with the Jungle Parasite Clear. I suspect some component of the medication fizzy tab has increased the pH. <Possibly...> Thank you again for your assistance. Vida <Thank you for this follow-up. Bob Fenner>

Goldfish lice -- 08/02/07 Hi how are you. <Tolerably well, thank you.> I had emailed earlier for the goldfish lice. <Yep.> It had happened to all my 9 fishes. But then I removed it with my hand and then all of them became fine except 2 which died. <OK.> Now after 3 months I again discovered 2 lice on my 2 fish. However I have removed it and now none are seen in the tank. But pls tell me that what more precaution can I take. Any medication. Or what. <Try and understand how the lice get into the tank, for example, by buying fishes from retailers with a goldfish lice problem.> Also pls tell me that why these lice happen. Any reason behind it. <Reason? Evolution. Parasites have evolved to take advantage of host organisms. But why they occur in your tank? Simple: you aren't quarantining your fish. If your fish are isolated from infected fishes, they won't get the parasites. If you dump infected fish from the shop into your aquarium, your fish will get infected.> I had bought 3 fishes a week before and added in the tank. Is it because of them because among the 2 which got infected one was the new one. <Likely, yes, assuming you killed off the lice last time round.> Pls tell me the reason behind it and what precaution should I take <The usual precautions will work: buy healthy fish from trustworthy retailers. Quarantine new stock, treating for parasites if you suspect they are infected. Hope this helps, Neale>

Re: Goldfish lice -- 08/02/07 Thank you for your efforts and advice. Pls tell me that how can I quarantine the new stock. Any medicines. Also the fish vendor from whom I purchased the fishes say that the fishes are always under the medication in his shop. Pls tell me any medicines or antibiotics so that I can cure them. Also after finding 2 lice what more precaution can I take so that other fishes don't get infected. Pls help <Hello Mr Bond. Quarantining is described in most aquarium books, and is simple enough to understand: keep new fish in a *separate* aquarium for a few weeks, long enough for you to observe their health. Six weeks should do the trick. In that time, you should see evidence of fish lice, whitespot, or whatever and be able to treat it safely. After quarantining is over, you move the fish into your display aquarium. All fish retailers will say they quarantine their stock. Can you imagine them admitting otherwise? To be fair, most actually do quarantine their stock to some extent. But the problem is that display tanks in the store mix lots of fish together -- they have to, since the retailer can't place one goldfish per aquarium! So, simply by being placed on display, the fish are exposed to diseases. Medications for treating fish lice depend on what's available in your area. In the UK, it's products such as Interpet #12 Anti Crustacean Parasite and Waterlife Sterazin. In the US, you have things like Mardel CopperSafe and Aquarium Products Fluke-Tabs. Visit your retailer, and see what they have available. Saltwater dips might also work. In this case, add 20-30 grammes of salt per litre of aquarium water in a bucket. Net the fish, and immerse in the bath for 5-20 minutes depending on the size of the fish (bigger fish tolerate dips for longer). Repeat daily, and with luck the lice will drop off. I'm not a vet, so can't comment on antibiotics, but since antibiotics are for bacteria, there's no reason they would work on lice. Hope this helps, Neale>
Re: Goldfish lice -- 08/02/07 What are the medications available in India for fish lice. Here all stupid people sell fishes and so they don't know anything. Pls recommend it. Is there any particular reason why these fish lice happen <Mr. Bond, some manners please. How about saying "please" or "thank you"? Over here in England we still take these things seriously. Anyway, as for brands of fish lice medication in India, I haven't a clue. The following medications are used in the US, UK, and Europe to treat fish lice, and some may be available in India. For all I know, there may be Indian pharmaceutical companies producing their own brands. A bit of time spent visiting aquarium stores or shopping online may help. - API General Cure - Aquarium Products Clout - Aquarium Products Fluke-Tabs - Aquarium Products Life Bearer - Hikari CyroPro - Mardel CopperSafe - Seachem Cupramine - Seachem PolyGuard - Interpet #12 Anti Crustacean Parasite - Kusuri Parazoryne - Waterlife Sterazin - JBL Gyrodactol - TetraMedica ContraSpot You probably want to see if there's an Indian or local fishkeeping club you can join. That's often the best way to make friends among fishkeepers near home, and so learn about the best places to go shopping and what products and traded. As for "why" parasites happen, I think I explained that before. When a healthy fish and a parasitised fish are brought together in one tank, then there's a good chance the parasite will infect the healthy fish. Your job is to prevent that happening. Bob's written a nice intro to the subject, here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/quaranti.htm . Hope this helps, Neale>

Anchorworm, using WWM 7/7/05 Hi, Thank you for creating such an informative website. I learned so much from it. :) I just plucked an anchor worm off the tail of my goldfish. I could not find information of what to do with the goldfish - should I quarantine it or release it back into the container pond? At the moment now, it is in a 1 gallon tank. I don't have space in the townhouse to set up a real QT tank. All the other fishes seem healthy. Thanks, Lai Hwa <... go to the homepage of WWM: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/index.html put in the term "anchor worm" in the Google search tool... Bob Fenner>

Anchor worm on a molly? We have a gold dust molly we purchased her with a mate about 6 months ago her mate died about 1 month ago and now she seems to be get fat quite fat under her belly she has a white round opening and it seems to have a well I am not sure what it is it looks like 2 red thin things sticking out it sort of looks like one have of a sword tail maybe I am really not schooled in fish and the fish belong to my 9 year old daughter she wanted fish so my husband them for her we have a 30 gallon tank with 6 fish neons, the molly, and zebras, and a head light tail light with 2 of the cleaning fish one is large and one is small I am worried about the molly my husband says fish lay eggs but from my research I see that is not correct please help clueless <Does sound like anchor worm, Lernaea (actually a copepod).... please put this name, term in your search engine, look at pix... and if this is so, consider carefully pulling these adults off the fish (with tweezers)... W/o intermediate hosts (snails) they cannot (likely) reproduce in your system. Bob Fenner> Parasite in Parrot Gills Hello I have lost two parrot fish in the last three months. They all have long red tubular growths coming from the inside of the gills. The gill area has busted open since they got this and is growing out of the gills. The aquarium store told me it was most likely gill flukes and so I treated them repeatedly with no cure. They told me that they were a hybrid fish and if they appeared to be OK them let them go. I did and I lost one parrot 3 months ago and 1 last night. I noticed last week that the red tubular growths had purple tips on them and that the rosy barb in the tank was sticking its head into their gills and eating it. Please help. I've had these fish for over three years and I am very attached. The aquarium seems to think they may be anchor worms. There are two angel fish, a Pleco and a rosy barb in the tank and they do not have these growths. Kathleen < To get rid of either gill flukes or anchor worm I would recommend Fluke-Tabs. If your local store does not carry them then you can order them online at DrsFosterSmith.com.-Chuck>

Anchor Worms Hi, I have a 90x37x32 tank with various livebearers in. By the way I have 10 tanks of various sizes. I recently purchased a couple of platies and 4 Siamese fighter females and 1 male with about 4 new plants. (Not from a reputable dealer!! - mistake no 1). The tank has been running for about 4 months now. In the past 3 weeks my male Siamese fighter and 3 females had anchor worms (worm with a v tail) which I have treated successfully with Interpet No13. I treat the fish in a hospital tank. I purchased 4 more females of which two acquired the worm again. They are undergoing treatment. <I suspect this is the economic poison Dimilin... or the older DTHP (Masoten, Dylox...) Please see here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PondSubWebIndex/contrpdparasit.htm> My question is how do I cure the tank without damaging the plants which by the way are stunning. I do realize that I will have to strip the tank which is no problem. My plants are my concern. <The plants should be fine if the product mentioned is either of these organophosphates. If it is something else, please write back, Bob Fenner> I trust to hear from you soon. Kind Regards, GRAHAM LIGHT SOUTH AFRICA

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