FAQs on Guppy
Foods/Feeding/Nutrition
Related Articles: Guppies, Poeciliids:
Guppies, Platies, Swordtails, Mollies by Neale Monks,
Livebearing Fishes by Bob
Fenner,
Related FAQs: Guppies
1, Guppies 2, Guppy Identification, Guppy Behavior, Guppy Compatibility, Guppy Selection, Guppy Systems, Guppy Disease, Guppy Reproduction, Livebearers, Platies, Swordtails, Mollies,
|
|
Skinny guppy not eating
12/7/19
Hi again!
No fish have died so far and there are 2 fry that are going well. Only
one smaller male seems to not be eating now. What could be causing it?
Worms?
He is skinny too and I remember last time I saw his poop it was kind of
stringy. I'm thinking of putting him in the QT tank with Levamisole. Is
that a good idea?
<Worms are a possibility, but to be honest, with farmed Guppies, the
so-called 'Wasting Disease', Mycobacteriosis, is more probable. There's
no treatment as such, beyond optimising living conditions and hoping for
the best. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Skinny guppy not eating 12/7/19
Hi Neale,
Thanks for your reply,
I got him from a private breeder. How do I distinguish worms vs.
Mycobacteriosis?
<Unless you're a vet or microbiologist, you can't. Broadly speaking
though, worms do two things you can sometimes observe clearly: either
emerge from the vent as red threads (Camallanus worms) or cause
abdominal swelling while the rest of the fish becomes skinny (intestinal
worms).
Mycobacteriosis causes a range of symptoms, including wasting, bloody
sores, strange behaviours such as hiding away, and eventually death. But
because Mycobacteriosis shares those symptoms with other diseases, for
example Aeromonas and Pseudomonas bacteria can cause sores, and worms
can cause wasting, it's really difficult to positively diagnose. It's
normally implicated by default, where a fish fails to respond to
reliable antibiotic and/or anti parasite medications. Make sense?>
Is there any way to treat Mycobacteriosis + worms at same time? Should I
QT him or not bother?
<For the sake of a single Guppy in its own tank, I personally wouldn't
do much beyond observe. If I had a tank of Guppies, then deworming on a
prophylactic basis isn't a bad idea at all, and products like PraziPro
do this reasonably reliably. Medicating for Mycobacteriosis is
essentially impossible, but if you use an antibiotic, it won't do any
harm, can work just fine with PraziPro, and might solve the problem if
some other bacterium is involved.>
Thanks again
<Welcome. Neale.>
re: Skinny guppy not eating 12/7/19
Hi again Neale, Just sending this along with my last reply I got a video
of the guppy
Its the tiger one, he's been thin like that the whole time I had him.
Same with purple one. Though recently the tiger one isn't seeming to be
eating.
Unsure how long he hasn't been eating fir
https://youtu.be/3NpJ05Mh1io
Thanks again
<Yep, have seen this many, many times with livebearers, including my own
colony of Limia. Doesn't seem to kill the fish particularly quickly, so
I don't think it's a Mycobacteria infection. It might be something
called Tetrahymena pyriformis, also know as 'Guppy Disease'. Do look at
some photos online. Difficult to treat (no commercial treatment
available so far as I know) but equally doesn't seem especially
contagious, so may affect fish that are otherwise stressed or
genetically weak. So do some research on these possibilities, and act
accordingly. Cheers, Neale.>
Hi, my guppy is starving, what do I do, I think he is going
to die? 3/4/13
I have had 2 guppies for a few months then suddenly one started
acting odd and going to the top of the water,
I thought it might of been because of fertilizer dosing
<Both would be similarly affected>
so I did a 45% water change and put prime in then 2 days later: today
<Good>
Thought it may of been from the dying Anubias which was because the co2
I squirted on it was contaminated with vinegar so I threw the Anubias
out
<?>
I tested the water and it came back with about 3 nitrate so just incase
it was from that I did a 40% water change and added prime But today I
noticed he isn't eating and has a hollowed stomach basically I think he
is starving to death
I fed them and he didn't eat
None of my other fish are affected (rainbow shark,
<This fish is often a bully of others...>
guppy, 6 Kuhli loaches)
What do I do? has he got a internal parasite or some incurable illness?
He seems weak and keeps resting on things..
ammonia is 0, nitrite is 0, ph is about 7.6
nitrate WAS 3 now its probably half since I did that water change The
tank has been cycled for a long time
What could he possibly have and how do I treat it? I don' think he will
last long?
<Mmm, can't tell w/ the information presented... Read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/GupDisF7.htm
and the linked files above>
I think maybe an internal parasite or gill infection or swim bladder
virus just something that causes them not to eat and to not swim around
much I am so worried :(
<No need/use... Read, consider the possibilities you learn about. Bob
Fenner>
Re: Hi, my guppy is starving, what do I do, I think he is going to die?
3/7/13
He died :(
I'm watching the other fish
the shark never picked on the guppies
<... have you read where you were referred? BobF>
Re: Hi, my guppy is starving, what do I do, I think he is going to die?
3/7/13
I read all the posts in the link you gave me, i can't find anything
similar to what happened to my guppy.
The tank is 55 gallons and has been cycled for 6 going on 7 years (2 of
the Kuhlis and the shark are about 6-7 years old and the other 4 Kuhlis
are younger, I also suspect 2 extra Kuhlis may be in one of my filters
but anyway).
There were no odd feces or anything, just gasping at the top then slow
lethargic swimming then not eating.
No visible marks on the body, a bit of color loss
<Perhaps "something" internal... senescence (cumulative genetic
defects... old age; how old are these guppies?)>
Now my remaining guppy is being a bit jumpy and when I fed the fish I
didn't see him eat, of course he may eat later over night but I am not
sure if this Is just jumpiness from being the only guppy or if he has
the same as what the other guppy had.
I don't think its a good idea to add more guppies until at-least a few
weeks of monitoring this one for symptoms.
What do you think?
<Agreed>
Thanks Bob :)
<Welcome. Sarah. B>
Re: Hi, my guppy is starving, what do I do, I think he is going to die?
3/8/13
Thanks for your fast reply Bob,
<Welcome>
It seemed a bit sudden to be old age?
<Mmm, no; not really... deaths from such do occur w/o notice in wild
animals quite often. It's sometimes said/stated that they "have to put
on a good face" to avoid predators/predation... that "letting on" re
poor health signals that one is an easy/easier target>
When I got them I suspect they had just reached adult hood?
<Yes... often sold at 4-6 mo.s of age... grown up quickly by numerous
feedings, constant water changes... only live a couple/three years>
knowing breeders?(but I don't know for sure) and they were from a 'pet
shop', so anywhere from 3 months to 5 months old I suspect and I have
actually had the guppies for 4 months
<Oh! Then should have lived longer>
I specifically picked him out at the pet shop, he was my favorite :( :/
sigh
Is this usual for guppies? or a rare occurrence? because it kind of
put/s me off them,
Which is sad considering I always wanted to have them, then when I
finally do he dies...
<Guppies do "die mysteriously" for the most part... And livebearers
(Poeciliids in this case) nowayears are not nearly as tough/hardy as
they were decades back unfortunately. Perhaps Platies would be a better
choice for you. BobF>
Re: Hi, my guppy is starving, what do I do, I think he is going to
die? 3/8/13
Thanks for your fast reply Bob,
<Welcome>
It seemed a bit sudden to be old age?
<Mmm, no; not really... deaths from such do occur w/o notice in wild
animals quite often. It's sometimes said/stated that they "have to put
on a
good face" to avoid predators/predation... that "letting on" re poor
health
signals that one is an easy/easier target>
When I got them I suspect they had just reached adult hood?
<Yes... often sold at 4-6 mo.s of age... grown up quickly by numerous
feedings, constant water changes... only live a couple/three years>
knowing breeders?(but I don't know for sure) and they were from a 'pet
shop', so anywhere from 3 months to 5 months old I suspect and I have
actually had the guppies for 4 months
<Oh! Then should have lived longer>
I specifically picked him out at the pet shop, he was my favorite :( :/
sigh
Is this usual for guppies? or a rare occurrence? because it kind of
put/s
me off them,
Which is sad considering I always wanted to have them, then when I
finally
do he dies...
<Guppies do "die mysteriously" for the most part... And livebearers
(Poeciliids in this case) nowayears are not nearly as tough/hardy as
they
were decades back unfortunately. Perhaps Platies would be a better
choice
for you. BobF>
Re Hi, my guppy is starving, what do I do, I think he is
going to die? 5/3/13
Hi again...
He died so I got new ones but now. Everything seemed to be fine. I got
the guppies about 4 days ago, the tank has been cycled for a long time.
The water has no ammonia or anything and i got new guppies and one died
it has a really red gill and fat stomach some of the others have reddish
gills and are a bit bloated; what should I do? :(
I'm scared this is going to wipe my whole tank out..
Thanks :(
<As Bob said before, farmed Guppies and Mollies are much less hardy
nowadays that they were in the past (or are in the wild). Keeping in
slightly brackish water, around a teaspoon of marine salt mix per 3-4
litres/1 US gallon makes a big difference. Obviously this won't suit
other species, so choose tankmates accordingly (much to be said for
keeping Guppies and Mollies in single-species set-ups). Mycobacterial
infections seem ubiquitous; abdominal swelling, bloody sores on the
flanks, and general emaciation/failure to thrive are common symptoms.
Best advice: choose some other species if "easy to keep" matters to you…
X-ray Tetras, Zebra Danios, Bronze Corydoras, Bristlenose Catfish all
the fit the bill and can do well in tanks from 15 gallons upwards.
Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Hi, my guppy is starving, what do I do, I think he is going to die?
5/3/13
Hi Neale thanks for your fast reply, I dosed using PimaFix do you think
it might save the rest?
<Wouldn't bank on it. Pimafix, Melafix, and other "herbal" cures are at
best preventatives, and likely do little/nothing to cure established
diseases. Some, like Bob, actually feel they cause more problems than
they solve. In any event, Wasting-type diseases such as Mycobacteriosis
are very difficult to cure even with real, medically-testing
medications, let alone Pimafix, Melafix and the like. Better to
understand the background to Wasting diseases (poor stock to begin with,
and/or failures in care, such as overstocking, diet, wrong water
chemistry). Then you can prevent or avoid the problem through better
choices, planning and execution. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Hi, my guppy is starving, what do I do, I think he is going to die?
5/4/13
Hi again Neale
<G'day Sarah,>
Yes I heard it is fairly weak in terms of a medication so I picked up
some tetracycline today and some stress zyme in-case it puts my tank
back into cycling. I also have prime to protect the fish from the
ammonia if it does cycle again. I also have some stress coat too. Would
that help to clear it up, should I dose it right now?
<I'd be leery of overmedicating. Do remember any/all medications tend to
be poisons at some level (it's the dose that differentiates between
"beneficial" and "lethal") and the interactions between any two
medications is virtually never tested, so what happens when you mix
medications is unpredictable. If a fish is basically okay, feeding and
responding to the medication you're using, I'd recommend finishing off
that course of medication (as described by the manufacturer) before
switching to another course of medications, and even then, I'd wait a
few days between them to see if the fish is recovering under its own
steam anyway. With all this said, Tetracycline is an antibiotic and
should be tolerably safe, though its effects on the filter bacteria may
be undesirable (it does, after all, kill bacteria) and Stress Coat is
pretty mild stuff, not really a medication so much as "ointment" for
fish like you'd rub onto a child's cut or graze, and about as useful
(i.e., you wouldn't use an ointment to deal with gangrene or
tuberculosis!). Prime is a water conditioner rather than a medication,
and should be safe to use during all water changes.>
Also tomorrow I have to go down to the place where I got the fish with a
water sample to prove the water quality is all right. Would adding the
tetracycline cause an immediate ammonia spike?
It says on the bottle if it is used for a while it will cause it, so it
won't cause it immediately?
<It's really difficult to predict, but yes, it can (though often
doesn't) kill filter bacteria, so act/plan accordingly. If you have
another aquarium then chances are you can take some live filter media
from that tank's filter and put in into the filter in this aquarium,
assuming the two filters are more or less compatible. Alternatively,
have some zeolite ("ammonia remover" filter media) to hand and stuff
into a simple box or canister filter, and use this during the period of
medication. Generally, be prepared to replace this every 2-3 days,
depending on the amount used and the messiness of the fish being
treated.>
Just wondering since the place I got the fish obviously wouldn't refund
if I have ammonia (even if caused by antibiotics, probably).
<Understandable, they'd go out of business if they did! Seriously,
nine-tenths of the premature fish deaths in the hobby are caused by poor
water quality.>
The fish are still all alive, they don't look like they are 'dying' per
say. But then again neither did the other guppy that died. Particularly.
<Quite so.>
Thanks again Neale
<Most welcome, Neale.>
Re: Hi, my guppy is starving, what do I do, I think he is going
to die? 5/5/13
Thanks for your reply Neale,
<Welcome.>
I added tetracycline yesterday and been treating with prime incase the
ammonia rises.
<Ah, do understand that Prime will do little/nothing to prevent ammonia
poisoning. Big source of confusion here among aquarists. Prime (and
other "ammonia removers") neutralise ammonia in tap water, either
directly or via the breakdown of chloramine to chlorine + ammonia. What
Prime and others don't do is neutralise ammonia produced in real time by
respiring, excreting aquarium fish. May have some slight positive
benefit I suppose in the hours after a water change, but the Prime is
otherwise used up, metabolised by the filter bacteria.>
It hasn't so far even though when I took it to the store i got it from,
they said i had ammonia. I actually bought a new test kit and tested and
compared it with tap water and it was identical so they must have
contaminated their sample by not washing the tube out properly.
<Or your tap water contains ammonia and/or chloramine; I find nitrite
test kits infinitely more useful, being less likely to report false
positives (from the chloramine). Ammonia is, of course, toxic whether it
comes from the tap water or your fish, but most modern water
conditioners neutralise tap water ammonia; what's added subsequently by
your fish is where your filter steps in and earns its keep.>
I am kind of worried that the ammonia will rise too high to be treated
with prime, since it only detoxifies like 1ppm.
<Lethal.>
I don't want to mess with the filter though so is there anything else I
could do /add that will make it lower?
<Filtering through zeolite is the best, in fact only way to reliably
remove ammonia without using bacteria. Everything else is just a waste
of money.>
I added beneficial bacteria to help (stress zyme) and a little of stress
coat. None have died, which is good
Sarah
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Hi, my guppy is starving, what do I do, I think he is
going to die? 5/21/13
Hi again Neale
<Sarah,>
I cured that guppy.
<Well done!>
A lot has happened since the last email, 5 fish were looking bad
including the one I cured which showed some signs of something wrong.
Signs: Odd coloration/goldishwhiteness, random holes in fins, fin rot
and splits, extra respiration and some reddened gills, lethargicness
<Ah, yes, does sound bad… in the case of Guppies, do check water
chemistry (should be hard and alkaline -- 10+ degrees dH, pH 7-8); up
the temperature (to around 26-28 C); add a little salt if possible (1
teaspoon per US gallon is a good start). These will perk up Guppies if
they're merely unhappy with ambient conditions. It's also a good idea to
think about opportunistic bacterial infections, some of which are
treatable.>
So surprisingly I gave the fish to the fish 'expert' guy where I got
them from and basically he said they would live. I said they need
treatment asap or they will die. Anyway I followed up a week later and
he told me they ALL died except one.
<Oh.>
Now 3 in my tank were looking odd, 2 with all those symptoms and 1 with
just some. I took them into a quarantine tank and have been battling to
keep the ammonia under check and treat. Needless to say the Tetracycline
treatment didn't work, well at least not on these. Ich treatment didn't
work. I am starting to think it is Columnaris disease and I am going to
get Methylene blue or potassium permanganate tomorrow to do a bath with
them. How do I do this exactly? how much parts water to how much parts
of one or the other? and for how long?
<I would recommend neither medication. Methylene Blue is a mild
anti-fungal more than anything else; it's used in breeding tanks for
example to keep eggs from going mouldy. Problem is that Columnaris isn't
a fungus. As for Potassium Permanganate, it's toxic stuff, nasty to you,
your fish and your filter.>
They are all looking slow and bad, one has been going through periods of
corkscrewing, i tried the pea method but it doesn't seem to be working…
I really don't think these guys have much time left at all. So tomorrow
fingers crossed I can get that stuff I can give it a try. Hopefully that
doesn't mean sacrificing a uni lecture. Its either that or waiting till
after 10pm to treat them...
<I'd review water conditions as outlined above, and then use a broad
spectrum antibiotic, such as the classic Maracyn 1 and 2 combination. As
ever, give your aquarium a decent clean and water change before using
it, and then remove carbon from the filter (if used).>
So really hope they hold out. My loaches have been swimming around a lot
and respirating more than usual.
<These definitely wouldn't like the Potassium Permanganate!>
Had a big disaster in the morning where the tank temperature plummeted
to 13 degrees Celsius because someone fiddled with the power point but
it got back up slowly and they seem to be ok but I'm worried they might
have it. If they do, how can I treat them in the main tank?
<Loaches should perk back from brief exposure to chilling without any
further medication.>
Thanks so much ah I hope they all live
<Hope this helps, Neale.>
Re: Hi, my guppy is starving, what do I do, I think he is going to die?
5/21/13
Thanks for your fast reply Neale
<Welcome.>
Unfortunately I hadn't got your email yet and was desperate to try
something on my fish so I got the permanganate and did it in a bucket.
They still don't look good and obviously didn't like the potassium
permanganate bath.
<I bet.>
Thing is I don't know if I can get Maracyn in Australia. If this doesn't
work, and they are still alive I will try it.
<Maracyn is only sold in the US over the counter… in most other
countries antibiotics are prescription only. A vet can supply
equivalents -- Maracyn 1 is Erythromycin, Maracyn 2 is Minocycline. But
there are often non-antibiotic antibacterial medications sold as
alternatives. Here in the UK, a typical product is eSHa 2000 that works
well against external bacterial infections. Do consult your local
retailer, and ask for good quality anti-Finrot medications if the
problem is with the fins, scales or skin; avoid products based on
tea-tree oil and suchlike as these tend to better used to prevent
infections than to treat acute infections.>
I also called the fish guy at the pet shop back up to tell him what is
going on and ask about my fish and he said it died too... Said it was
looking fine then just died... hmm. Good news is the guppies in my main
tank look ok so far. One a tiny bit fat though, loaches are fine and
back to their hiding selves. My water is relatively hard. I don't know
about salt, the pet shop guy put salt in with the others and they all
died so hmm.
<In and of itself, salt, if used correctly, will NEVER do your Guppies
harm; Guppies positively thrive in low-end brackish conditions!
Something like 5-6 grams per litre of marine salt mix in a freshwater
aquarium creates low-end brackish conditions than Guppies (and Mollies)
adore, often doing better than in freshwater conditions. Loaches, on the
other hand, dislike saline conditions, so should not be exposed to such
conditions.>
Sarah
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Hi, my guppy is starving, what do I do, I think he is
going to die? 6/29/13
Hi again Neale,
now for an update, 2 of the guppies died and one actually lived and is
now fully healed in my 55 gallon aquarium.
<Good.>
5 total guppies lived out of the 14 i had,
<Sadly not uncommon with Guppies these days.>
and my shark and all my Kuhlis lived and my peppermint Pleco.
<I see.>
I believe they had an internal parasite, since they are all ok now (no
more deaths) after i dipped the 5 guppies in potassium permanganate then
a bit later treated the whole aquarium with Praziquantel for 2 weeks.
One does have a split in his fin, so i believe there may still be a mild
bacterial infection (fin rot) in the tank. I'm wondering how should I
treat that? and should i treat the whole aquarium? or just the
individual?
<Either. Any good Finrot remedy can be used; most are safe with filter
bacteria but check the packaging. Treating in a hospital tank is fine
because Finrot isn't "catchy" so you don't need to treat all the fish.>
also one of the other guppies has slight light patches in spots of his
tail, not sure what it is? any ideas on how to treat?
<Would treat as incipient Finrot and act accordingly.>
I have now unfortunately gotten myself involved in my boyfriends mothers
problems with her fish tank. The filter stopped working and she just
left it for i don't know how long, without a filter. I went over his
house and saw the fish and it is very swollen and has cloudy eyes (it is
a cichlid or ram) and doesn't move much, it just was kind of staying
somewhat tilted
near the glass. So after some instruction, i got my boyfriend to change
100% of the water and order a hang over filter which should be on its
way.
He also added some Epsom salt. But now I don't know how the fish can be
treated and how we can do so cheaply, because his mum doesn't have much
money and well basically would rather ignore it and wait till it dies
then shove a bunch of new fish in. Which i am against.
<I bet.>
So anyway I really think it has some kind of bacterial infection and
maybe internal parasites but I'm not sure how to treat it. Praziquantel
<Specifically treats worms, nothing else, so not much use for most
internal parasites.>
and just a broad spectrum antibiotic? or tetracycline?
<Antibiotics treat bacterial infections, but no antibiotic treats all
bacterial infections. Without information on what's in the tank, the
water chemistry, the sickly species involved, and ideally a photo, it's
hard to recommend anything specific. Would assume it's an opportunistic
bacterial infection (like Finrot) and treat thusly.>
Also the tank is not cycled so what can be put in/done to make sure
there is no ammonia?
<You can't "add" anything to a tank to make ammonia go away. Zeolite may
be used in lieu of biological filtration, but you need a fair amount,
and it needs to be replaced every few days (hence zeolite is primarily
of use with small fish and/or short-term situations like hospital
tanks).>
I don't think large water changes can be an option because there would
be medication in there and it would need to be topped up every time
right?
<If you need to medicate (say) 8 PM one day, but do a daily water change
7:30 PM, then you should be fine. Most medications work for about a day
before being completely absorbed and metabolised by the filter bacteria
and others, so provided you leave the medication in there for 23 hours
or so, daily water changes aren't a major problem.>
It's a tricky situation, also the tank is about 30 gallons.
Thanks Neale :)
<Good luck, Neale.>
Re: Hi, my guppy is starving, what do I do, I think he is going
to die? 6/29/13
Awwwe don't worry about the last part of the previous message,
the cichlid/ram died how sad :(
it didn't even get to receive medication yet how could that family not
notice its condition -.-
<Too bad. Yes, it's often a wonder why people get pets when their desire
to maintain them is minimal. Let's hope the Boyf. appreciates your
better intentions and experiences. Cheers, Neale.>
Ceratopteris vs. Poeciliidae and
Pterophyllum 12/2/11
Hello:
<Salve!>
Hate to be bothering you again, but yet another question. Do freshwater
angel fish eat water sprite??
<Not normally. But they might peck at if from time to time if
there's flake food hidden there.>
Also I was wondering if guppies do, not that I keep them together with
angels, but since guppies are herbivores like platies, I believe, would
they go after the water sprite?? Thank you!!!
<Neither Guppies nor Platies should eat Water Sprite to any serious
extent.
Guppies and Platies will peck at algae, that's all.>
Judy
<Cheers, Neale.>
Guppy fry, fdg.
6/16/10
Hi Guys and gals
Thank you creating such a great and informative site.
I have 20 guppy fry that are about 2 weeks old and doing well.
I have set up a nursery tank with live plants and have placed then in
there.
As recommended on most sites I have been feeding them every couple of
hours. However I am due to go away for the weekend and was wondering if
I can get away without feeding them of this period? If not would a
feeding block do?
Many thanks in anticipation
<Hello there. No need to feed them if you're just gone a few
days. If you want, put a slice of cucumber in the tank and they'll
nibble on that. Feeding blocks are a bad move. They pollute more than
they help. Cheers, Neale.>
Guppies not eating -- 02/22/10
Dear Crew,
<Hi! Melinda with you here tonight.>
We bought a male and female guppy the other day for our tank that has
gold fish.
<Not good. Don't even enjoy the same water temperature! How
could you keep both happy?>
When the goldfish went after them, we put them in a smaller
(non-aerated) bowl.
<This won't work. It just won't. These fish need larger,
heated, filtered aquariums. Either provide this, or return them. It was
a poor choice to put them into the Goldfish tank, anyway. Please read
here on Guppy care:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/guppies.htm, as well as those
linked files above the title of this article. In addition, please read
on WWM about the nitrogen cycle. I am not sure if you're aware of
the cycle which converts very toxic fish waste products to much
less-toxic waste products, and allows us to keep fish in closed
systems, but even if you are, I can assure you that it's not
happening in this bowl. They're being poisoned:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwestcycling.htm.>
They seem to be okay,
<Nothing could be farther from the truth. They're probably
freezing, suffering from Ammonia burn, as well as lack of oxygen -- to
put it mildly, they're miserable. Fish are stoic animals, as are
most animals, because to exhibit injury or illness means quick death
from a predator. Therefore, they do not complain or moan as we humans
are wont to do, but fail to show symptoms of illness until it's
just impossible to hide them. Therefore, if we take them into our care,
we cannot rely on symptoms of illness in order to determine fish
health, but instead, we must rely on objective data -- system size,
filtration, water parameters, etc. If we don't, by the time we
notice symptoms of illness, it is really late in the game, so to speak,
and harder to heal the fish, and more difficult for the fish to
recover.>
but aren't interested in any of the food we have been giving the
other fish (Tetra Pro and Tetra Prima).
<You should be feeding the Goldfish more than just dry foods. Please
read on WWM re: Goldfish care. Fail to augment their diet with wet,
green foods, and you're on the fast track to a floaty, bloaty
goldfish:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWsubwebindex/gldfshmalnut.htm. Also, please
take the time to peruse the linked articles above.>
We're worried that they aren't eating.
<It's good that you're worried, because this is absolutely
the right emotion. However, I now ask that you extend that emotion to
action: by reading, doing what is necessary to either provide for the
lives you have taken under your care, or returning them to the store,
so that someone else may provide for them. If you have any questions
after reading, please feel free to write back.>
Thank you.
<You're welcome.
--Melinda>
Re: Guppies not eating
Thank you.
<You're welcome.>
But you never answered my question about what the guppies should
eat.
<They should take to the flakes with no problem. This is why I
agreed with you that the fact that they're not eating is cause for
concern, and tried to explain the myriad of reasons why they won't
eat -- in short, that they feel horrible. In any case, they'll also
eat wet-frozen foods, such as bloodworms, daphnia, and brine shrimp, as
well as some other dried things, such as algae wafers. Please read
here, which can be found on the page where I linked you in the last
e-mail:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/guppyfdgfaqs.htm. However,
I'd just like to stress again that the problem is unlikely that
you're feeding things they don't "like," but instead,
that they're living in an unheated, unfiltered, non-aerated small
bowl, and probably aren't going to eat until every day stops being
a struggle to overcome environmental conditions.
--Melinda>
Guppy wont eat! 6/18/09
Hello,
<Hi,>
I was wondering if you could please advise me on how to make a guppy
eat?
<Just add fish food...>
I have a young male guppy (3mths old?) that was bred in my tank, and it
is the last survivor of its siblings. (the other three died as such:
the biggest female died from giving birth, another male just suddenly
died one
day, and the most recent death happened yesterday when the last female
had stopped eating, or at least was eating minimally)
<Hmm...>
the rest of the guppies and my 2 zebra Danios have been eating very
well, and this young make is the only one that is not doing well. at
the moment he has begun swimming such that his body moves in an
exaggerated S-shape but he stays in the same spot. until about 20
seconds later when he decides to actually move and moves a few
centimeters away.
<Actually suspect bigger problems here; your fish sounds like it is
either sick or has a birth defect, a not uncommon issue with tank-bred
Guppies because they're highly inbred (and if they're the
offspring of two Guppies you bought in one batch, their parents could
easily be brother and sister).
Spine defects for example are very common. Do read WWM re: euthanasia,
and consider that option if things don't improve.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/euthanasia.htm
>
Is it an option to try and force feed him? If that is even
possible....
<Algae would be a better bet; move the Guppy to a quarantine tank or
else confine it to a large breeding trap; add something like an algae
wafer, and see if it nibbles such food when left in peace.>
I don't have any access to live food or frozen live food, and i
have been feeding him guppy flake food all his life.
Hope to hear from you soon!
Regards,
Wanda
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Guppy wont eat!
Thanks, I will try that!
<Good luck, Neale.>
Guppies, feeding beh.
2/25/09 Hi i have two female guppies that are a nice size and
look pregnant, they don't look sick but they wont stop pecking at
the heater i wanted to know if it is normal for them to do this?
<It's "normal" insofar as Guppies are algae grazers.
Instead of feeding them today, give them half an algae wafer of the
sort used to feed catfish. They'll spend all day nibbling away.
Cheers, Neale.>
My guppies wont eat flake food 9/13/07 I just bought our
daughter 2 fancy guppies and they wont eat the flake food. Within 2
days the tank was really cloudy. I did buy some tiny bites to try and
this has only been 1 day is there anything else can I feed them?
Thanks, Jennifer <Greetings. When voracious feeders like guppies
won't eat flake (assuming the flake isn't stale) then
there's almost certainly something wrong. Given the water is
cloudy, the issue is probably water quality. For one thing, don't
add any more food. Most people overfeed their fish. There should be no
food visible in the tank 5 minutes after adding the food. Secondly,
check water quality. Setting up a tank and then adding fishes the same
day is the quick way to kill those fishes. Please tell us the
following: the nitrite level, the pH, and the hardness. As a guideline,
your aquarium should have zero ammonia and nitrite, and a low level of
nitrate (less than 50 mg/l). The pH should be around 7.5-8. The
carbonate hardness should be around 8-10 degrees KH upwards, and the
general hardness about 12 degrees dH upwards. Cloudy water is typical
of under-filtered, heavily polluted aquaria that aren't looked
after properly. You need a filter that provides turnover of not less
than 4 times the volume of the aquarium per hour, and you should be
doing 50% water changes weekly, especially during the early stages of
setting up a tank. Always use a good quality dechlorinator. Cheers,
Neale.>
Dead Guppy Cannibals 9/18/06 Hi, <Hi>
I was wondering if it is possible that a guppy can eat another dead
guppy? <Most fish will pick at dead/dying fish, although they will
generally not eat the entire carcass. Not a good thing
though due to disease transfer, water quality etc.>
<Chris> Guppy food question & a few other Guppy
questions, esp. breeding traps 8/31/05 Tetra Min used to make
"Guppy food Special Diet" (purple lid), but they no longer
make it. It was nice since it was regular flakes broken up into Guppy
size flakes and you didn't have to break it up with your fingers
(which always seems to end up with dust and large flakes, and few
flakes the 'right size'). You could just use it
'straight'. I've tried HBH 'Guppy bites', but my
Guppies don't seem to like that, nor do I since the food won't
break down small enough to be drawn into the gravel filter. Within days
it decomposes and floats through the water. <I see> The only
thing I've found is the regular tropical fish flakes. I'm
currently using 'Nutrafin MAX Color Enhancing Flake Food'
which, again, must be broken up. Since food is usually sealed and the
pictures on the front are all the same and not at all indicative of
size, I was wondering if any of you know a good quality small flake
food (primary criteria) that perhaps also enhances color (secondary
concern). <Mmm, am thinking of a couple of things... One, that you
might have luck locating a set of "sieves" that used to be
sold for sorting sizes/flakes for aquarium use, the other to advise
having small catfishes (likely of the genus Corydoras) for
"clean-up", fun as well with your guppies. Don't know of
any given size/shape foods that might be better shaped... I would try
Omega-Sea's fine line though> Second issue: I've just
recently started up one of my 20 Gal tanks after a 15-20 year hiatus
from having Guppies, so I'm not 'up to speed' on the
details of pregnant Guppies (darn memory). I have one that had about 17
fry yesterday. It looks like she has another 3 in her, but it's
been about 36 hours since she had the last one. <Likely done
then> She was put in the breeder (another issue) a few times last
week (I thought she was ready) but when she didn't start in 12-24
hours, I put her back in the main tank. She was caught starting and I
immediately put her in the breeder where everything went fine except
for the last 3 that she still appears to be carrying. Is this normal?
<Happens> Is it possible she can't push them out right now,
but will later? <Could, but not likely> I left her out back into
the main tank about 4 hours after she produced the last one she had
yesterday (a dilemma - is it better to keep her confined where she may
feel, well, confined, or let her at the mercy of the males?) <When,
where in doubt, I would wait, leave in the breeding trap> Third
issue: I found 1 fry about a week after getting my initial stock (2
males + 2 females) about 4 weeks ago. I'm not sure which one it
came from, but there was only one left (I'm assuming all others
were eaten). About a week later, I found three more. I don't think
they were hiding, although that is possible. Anyway, the point is that
I had small fry in my breeder and didn't want to cramp them in, so
I bought a second breeder, but the new one is built so poorly that the
fry are getting through the cuts in the bottom plastic tray due to
manufacturing tolerances, I think. It's not built anything like my
old one, which does not seem to have that issue. The old one is made by
Lustar. <Ah, yes... a fine company... no longer extant> I could
not find that brand in any stores (incl some local fish stores,
PetLand, PetCo, PetSmart, and another chain I forget the name of). The
new one that is poorly made (for Guppies at least) is made by Penn Plax
model "12345 Plus" (Cat #BT-5). Is there anyone who makes
this type of breeder that is tight enough to not let fry swim between
the plastic plates and the outer 'tank'? <Not as far as
I'm aware. I would either go with net-types or use a separate tank
entirely> I've been looking at some of the models that use air
to 'suck' the fry into another section of tank. Your thoughts
on those models? <Am not a fan... too much likelihood of damage to
young> The ones I have are the type with the metal straps that fold
over the top of the tank. I wouldn't trust suction cups in the long
term. I saw a model with that, too, that was based on suction from an
air line. BTW, I solved the above problem, or at least lessened it, by
filling the bottom inch with gravel and spreading it up the sides where
the 'rails' are on the 'tank' and the cutouts are in
the bottom plate (which is the place the fry are getting through). I
don't care for that solution much, but it's the best I can
think of other than sealing the bottom plate with silicone. (would that
even be recommended?) <Could be done... will "stick"
enough, fill the void, be chemically inert...> BTW, including the
fry, I'm up to about 26 guppies in about a month. I suppose
soon I won't care as much about losing some as 'food', but
I'm still at the stage where I really don't want that to
happen. One last question: It seems after about 3 weeks the fry are
large enough that they don't get picked on by the adult Guppies.
Does that sound about right? I waited until they were significantly
larger than 'bite size'. <With good feeding... is about
right> Also, found your site looking for info on sexing the fry.
Haven't looked at the fins yet but I found some great info in your
FAQs. Thank you for your time and help, Joe M. <Thank you for
sharing. Bob Fenner>
Feeding earthworms to guppies Can you feed fancy guppies (and
or their fry) earthworms from your backyard? If so how can you feed the
worms to them? <You can, but they will need to be sliced and diced
to pieces small enough for the guppies to take into their mouths...
perhaps an "onion chopper" will do here... excess can be
refrigerated or frozen. Bob Fenner>
Skinny guppies <Hello, Ananda here answering the
freshwater fish questions...> Hello. I have been raising guppies for
a long time and here lately I have been challenged on how much I know,
from fish I have bought from the pet store, from ick to fin and tail
rot. But this skinny guppy thing I have no idea they just wouldn't
eat. They are so skinny its sad to see them like that. I have treated
them with internal parasite guard with no response from them. Do you
know of any thing I can do to get them to eat. thanks R Hickman <I
would try feeding them a high-quality frozen or freeze-dried food, like
frozen bloodworms or freeze-dried Tubifex worms. If that does not work,
try feeding them some live brine shrimp, which most fish find
irresistible. Once they start eating, try again with the frozen or
freeze-dried foods. Brine shrimp are not nutritionally sufficient for a
long-term diet, but they do work well as an appetizer for fussy eaters.
--Ananda>
|
|