FAQs on Mormyrid Fishes
Compatibility
Related Articles: Mormyrids, Elephantfishes, Electrogenic Fishes,
Related FAQs: Mormyrids,
Elephantfishes, Mormyrid Identification,
Mormyrid Behavior, Mormyrid Selection, Mormyrid Systems, Mormyrid Feeding, Mormyrid Disease, Mormyrid Reproduction, Bony Tongue Fishes, Electrogenic Fishes,
Aba Aba Knifefish, African Butterflyfish, Arapaimas, Arowanas, Featherfin Knives, New World Knifefishes,
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Tough Decision to Make; Mormyrid comp.
6/14/17
Hello Crew! This is Renee from Idaho with yet another situation specific
mormyrid question for you.
<Fire away.>
But first I have to tell you that my BGK is doing beautifully, staying healthy,
growing, and continuing to enchant every day (getting the catfish for her was a
brilliant idea! Not only are they keeping the tank clean, but she feels more
comfortable with them than any other dither fish I've tried and now she moves
around the entire tank - thank you again for that suggestion).
<Cool.>
However, in the past I've shared with you my desire to get an elephant
nose someday. I've put it off because that species is not available in
my area and because I wanted to focus on my BGK and other tanks, but now I find
myself in a situation. My local aquarium store, who I previously asked about the
availability of the elephant nose fish, gave my information (with my permission)
to a military couple, who are being relocated, who have an elephant nose they
can't take with them, but they only want to give the fish to someone with
experience with Mormyrids.
<Understood.>
I told them my experience was very limited (at best), but invited them out to
see my tanks and talk with me about taking the fish. We had a nice visit and
they loved my BGK (who chose to be very social for the occasion).
I explained to them that while I wanted their elephant nose, that I did not have
time (or the energy) to properly prepare a whole other tank for the fish before
they were going to be forced to leave (I have an empty 55 gallon, but it's dry,
has no substrate, filter, or heater - I've just been storing it). Still, they
seemed quite determined to get me to take the fish and suggested that it would
be fine in my 75 gallon.
<Hmm...>
Well, my 75 gallon currently houses 2 rope fish, one peacock eel, and a
2 inch Bristlenose, and I just don't know if that group would be
compatible for ALL the animals.
<Very difficult to predict. In terms of tank loading, not a problem assuming
good filtration and regular water changes. The question is whether the
Elephantnose and the Black Ghost will coexist. Ecologically, they occupy very
similar niches so there will be competition for them in terms of swimming space,
hiding place, food, and most importantly, electrical frequencies. This latter is
the key here: if they jam one another, they'll irritate each other, and because
the sense is electrical, not visual, you can't really "hide" them from one
another by adding more rocks, plants, etc.>
I told them I believed the peacock eel also found its food by use of an
electrical signal and I don't know if that would cause a problem for the
elephant nose or the eel.
<I'm not aware of electric sense organs in Spiny Eels, but I could be wrong. If
they have one, it'll be passive, like on sharks, simply able to pick up the
electric signals caused by muscle contractions in prey animals; fish with active
electric senses, like Black Ghosts and Elephantnoses, have distinctly "stiff"
bodies so that the electromagnetic field is fixed, allowing them to sense the
distortions caused by obstacles, rivals and prey. Much more sophisticated!>
I told them I wanted to help them, and that I wanted the elephant nose, but I
wasn't going to sacrifice the current residents of my 75 gallon tank, the
elephant nose, or my sanity by forcing this.
<Right.>
I've been researching since last night and can't find anything specific, both
for or against, putting the elephant nose in with the rope fish and eel, so when
they called me this morning, I told them I was going to write to you for your
advice - if you thought it would work, I'd take the fish; if not, they were
going to have to find someone else to take it. So, what do you think?
<I'd give it a shot *if* you had the option of returning the Elephantnose if
they squabble. But if you're lucky, the two species will use different
frequencies, and beyond territorial skirmishes, will ignore each other. I
wouldn't bet the house on it, but it'd be worth a go, particularly if both
specimens are still relatively small. Neither species is heavily armed, so
aggression tends to be a slow burning sort of thing, with stand-offs and chases,
rather than bites. So all else being equal, you can see if they're failing to
get along, and act accordingly. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Tough Decision to Make. Mormyrid comp.
6/15/17
I'm sorry, I should have been more clear. The elephant nose would not be going
in the tank with the BGK.
<Ah!>
You see, (and you're going to think I'm crazy) I have 8 fish tanks up and going
and although the tanks are not species specific, they are parameter specific.
<Sensible.>
I refuse to expect a fish to "adapt" to less than ideal parameters for that
species just because I want it.
<Agreed; some fish are adaptable of course, but others will inevitably do poorly
in the wrong conditions. You simply need to know your fish.>
I believe that each tank should meet the specific requirements of the fish I
want to put in it. Therefore, the BGK has her own 72 gallon tank that she shares
only with her Brochis catfish and one Bristlenose because they share the same
parameters and the Brochis and the Bristlenose don't mind the extra current that
the BGK needs (plus there are areas where the current isn't as strong).
<Quite so. Brochis are sadly underrated, but a much better choice than Corydoras
in larger, deeper tanks. Things like Megalechis and Hoplosternum are good too,
being even more hardy and a bit more robust, so good choices with adult oddballs
that aren't actually predatory, just big.>
Even though the water parameters would fit the elephant nose, I still would not
put that species in this tank for the reasons you mentioned plus the fact that
elephant nose don't like a strong current.
<I think they're a bit more adaptable than you might think. Bear in mind that
even a brisk aquarium current is barely a dribble compared with the flow in an
African river! So provided there are resting spots below or behind rocks where
they can rest, these sorts of fish should tolerate water flows up to 8-10 volume
of the tank per hour. But yes, for sure they won't appreciate turbulent flow in
open tanks without shelter.>
The tank I want to put the elephant nose is a separate 75 gallon that has only
the two rope fish, the spiny eel, and a Bristlenose.
<Oh, he'd be fine here.>
It has a sand substrate, plenty of plants (the plants have a tendency to "move"
as the spiny eel likes to tunnel through the sand), and plenty of caves to hide
in. It has a Cascade 1000 canister filter which provides a pretty good current,
so I keep the spray bar submerged to slow it down as the rope fish don't like a
strong current either. That is the tank I was going to put the elephant nose in.
The rope fish are 6 and 8 inches and the elephant nose is just under 4 inches,
so I don't think I have to worry about them trying to eat the elephant nose
(they haven't bothered the spiny eel and its about 4 inches as well). Plus, I
feed only frozen foods (bloodworms, baby brine shrimp, daphnia, Cyclops, and
chopped up grocery store fish or prawns) so hopefully that satisfies their
craving for meat.
<All sounds good. Elephantnoses go wild for plankton, so your baby brine
shrimps, daphnia and Cyclops should fit the bill nicely! Once settled they're
pretty tough, even bossy, but these tankmates sound about right for them.
Good luck, Neale.>
Re: Tough Decision to Make 6/15/17
Many, many thanks! The couple that have this fish live on (or near, I haven't
been to their home) Mountain Home Air Force Base in south central Idaho. It's
about a 2 hour drive for me, but they were so excited (and I think relieved)
when I just called them and told them you gave the "thumbs up" that they offered
to meet me halfway in Boise.
<Cool.>
Their movers are coming this Friday to get the rest of their belongings, and
they fly out on Saturday, so we've arranged to meet tomorrow when I can pick up
the fish. I'm really excited, (ok, and a little bit nervous as I won't be able
to return this fish if something goes wrong), and your comments have given me
the confidence to go ahead.
<At the very least, you're giving this fish its best chance of a secure future.
Keep us posted.>
Thank you for all you do!
<Most welcome. Neale.>
Re: Tough Decision to Make
6/16/17
Well, here he/she is! I hope I reduced the picture small enough for you
to download. (lol) I'm sorry about the picture, but he/she wasn't in the
mood to "mug" for the camera and this is the best I could negotiate.
<Not an easy species to photo, trust me!>
It's understandable though, he/she just spent the last 3 or 4 hours in a
plastic butter tub driving in a car and then suddenly finds
himself/herself in a whole new world.
<Quite so; this is an intelligent animal (for a fish, anyway) sensitive
to its world. Give it time.>
Is this species always so thin?
<Nope. While the "stem" between the tail and body is thin, the actual
girth of the body should be relatively chunky; Mormyrids are valued food
fish in the wild. At the least, you want the belly area to be distinctly
convex, and regular small feedings (even 3-4 per day) is a good way to
help this fish put on weight. They have big appetites (perhaps something
to do with their electricity production) and do need good quality food,
and plenty of it. Daphnia, brine shrimp and the like are useful; if you
can get them, clean wormy foods are excellent, perhaps Microworms but
ideally small earthworms and the like. Tubifex and bloodworms definitely
taken, but not without their risks.>
Is there a way to tell if its male or female?
<Probably, if you're another Mormyrid. Females are probably a bit more
chunky when mature (commonly the case with fish) but they actually
identify gender by using their electric sense, so far as we're
concerned, they basically look the same. If you know any physics
specialists with an oscilloscope, it's actually possible to hear their
clicking with the right tools. Very neat. Cheers, Neale.>
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Re: Elephant Nose - Peacock Eel question. Comp.
11/24/17
Ok, this morning I had to move the Eel. When I woke up, it was at the
top of the tank hiding behind the spray-bar from the filter and the
Elephant Nose was pacing back and forth as if "stalking" it.
<Oh! Doesn't sound good.>
So now the Eel is in the BGK tank with its two Ropefish buddies (72
gallon). I don't think the Eel will mind the extra current as there are
a lot of places to hide or get out of the current, and plenty of sand to
dig through - is that correct?
<Yes; Spiny Eels enjoy strong water currents, provided they can burrow
into something that keeps them secure, like soft sand or a hollow tube.
They are riverine fish, so more than able to move about in strong
currents. They
just don't like constantly swimming. What suits a Black Ghost should
suit a Spiny Eel just fine. Very similar requirements, and indeed, to
some degree ecological niche -- nocturnal predators on small worms and
the like.>
I'm really glad that this territorial behavior indicates that the
Elephant Nose is doing well as I truly love this fish, but now he seems
to be going after the Ropefish.
<Uh-oh. Any chance of adding something to disrupt this behaviour? Some
active midwater dither fish (Congo Tetras would be African species that
fit the bill nicely) might help to give the Elephantnose something to
target
without being vulnerable themselves. Synodontis species are good too,
having what Loiselle referred to as a 'Mosaic' approach to retribution
-- not actually aggressive if left alone, but like the prophet Moses,
more than able to wreak bloody vengeance when pushed, so tend to be left
alone by all but the most psychotic tankmates. A group of adult
Synodontis nigriventris should be a good choice, and usually aren't
nippy or bothersome, something which can characterise the larger
Synodontis. There are some gentle giant Synos out there though, if you
want a single, bigger catfish; Synodontis eupterus springs to mind.>
The smaller of the two Ropefish is now in the same spot the Eel was this
morning while the larger is swimming circles up and down the wall
beneath him.
<Does sound like territoriality, in which case adding -- not removing --
fish can be the solution, by spreading out aggression. Another tip is to
remove the aggressor, rearrange the tank, and after an hour or two,
return the aggressive fish. With luck, this resets the dynamic as the
aggressor has lost his territory, and now behaves more like a newcomer.
Sometimes, even giving the aggressor a 'time out' by confining to a net
or something inside the tank can work, by reminding him he's not top
dog, and there's someone even more terrifying in the jungle, namely, the
fish net!>
Now the Internet is full of advice, some good - some not so good - about
the Elephant Nose (and everything else of course.) and every article
I've read says the Elephant Nose is a schooling fish and shouldn't be
kept alone. Is that true?
<Right, here's where things get complex. In the wild, yes; these fish
occur in big schools. HOWEVER, in fish tanks it's very difficult to keep
a big enough group that they coexist. As you know, they're electric
fish, and
constantly jostling for position by jamming each other's frequencies.
It's something we can't see or hear, but presumably stressful. So if you
keep, say, three or four specimens, you usually end up with just the one
dominant
fish. Think about Piranhas and you've got much the same problem. I guess
if you had space for six specimens it'd be worth a shot, but you'd need
a really big tank, given adults are 20 cm/8 inches or so in length.
Bottom line, outside of jumbo tanks, it's simply easier to keep a
singleton. They can't do much harm to L-number catfish or Synodontis, so
those are reliable tankmates, and equally, a school of Giant Danios or
Congo Tetras isn't going to be overly bothered by them simply because
they're too quick for it to harass.>
Because my Elephant Nose seems to be telling me it wants the tank to
itself, and that's ok.
<Certainly, for whatever reason it doesn't appreciate the fish it sees
as competing for food or hiding places.>
I have another 75 gallon tank up and running that houses only a 3 inch
Baby Whale and a 2 inch Senegal Bichir (an odd couple, I know, but the
Bichir is the only fish the Baby Whale has terrorized to madness) and it
would be
quite easy to move the Ropefish to that tank.
<Sounds a teeny-tiny Bichir! I'd treat that chap very delicately at this
point, as they are a bit sensitive when this small.>
I just want everyone to be healthy and unstressed (me too if that's
possible!).
<Hopefully the above will help. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Elephant Nose - Peacock Eel question
11/24/17
Well, I can't do anything about trying to get new fish today because of
the holiday, but I do have 5 Serpae Tetra in my community tank who seem
to LOVE to chase each other around all the time anyway and are too fast
for the
Elephant nose to catch - would that work, at least temporarily?
<I would not... Serpae Tetras are highly social, and highly
hierarchical, little nippers -- really scaled down Piranhas! Fin-nipping
is part of the way they feed, so they're poor choices for pretty much
anything. Nice fish
to look out, and fun, but best kept in large groups on their own in
shady, planted tanks. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Elephant Nose - Peacock Eel question
11/24/17
And yes, that Bichir is very small. I got that one and another that is
barely an inch long from a guy who wanted to try to use them as feeder
fish for his 5 Jack Dempseys.
<I... uh,... don't know what to say... so pointless and cruel. It's not
like JDs are obligate piscivores in the wild, and the farmed fish will
eat most anything.>
Apparently he found new victims elsewhere and wanted the bichirs gone.
<I despair of my fellow fishkeepers sometimes. Neale.>
Re: Elephant Nose - Peacock Eel question
11/24/17
I completely agree. Want to hear the "kicker?" He has his own business -
aquarium maintenance.
<Yikes! In all honesty, he may be a great fishkeeper for all I know. But
he really needs to break the feeder fish habit! Expensive, risky, cruel,
and without any kind of benefits for any of the fish widely kept by
aquarists.
I admit there are one or two very rare things, like South American
Leaffish, that really do need a supply of home-bred livebearers or
Killies to stay alive, but most everything else can and should be weaned
onto alternatives. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Elephant Nose - Peacock Eel question
11/24/17
Hey Neale, if you don't already think I'm crazy, this may make up your
mind. I moved my Ropefish out of the elephant nose tank because the EN
was harassing them to the point that they were throwing themselves
against the lid trying to get out. But even that didn't stop the EN's
tirade - he started in on the plants and seemed to almost be thrashing
around the tank.
I did water testing and results came back no ammonia, no nitrate, and
nitrate was definitely less than 20 ppm (this tank's water change day is
Tuesday). I put my Neon Tetras (8) and Harlequin Rasboras (7) in with
him and he became a mad bomber blasting his way through the schools
repeatedly.
I had a random thought that this fish is experiencing some sort of
short-circuit and tried to remember when this behavior actually started.
I thought it started shortly after I put in a terracotta "cave" I made
for them. He acted weird when I first put it in, but he always acts
weird when I make any change to his tank. But looking back, this was
different.
Instead of hiding, the EN was approaching the terracotta cave in an
almost aggressive manner, and then backing away from it - repeatedly.
Also, the Peacock Eel was lying under the sand right next to the
terracotta cave when
the EN first attacked him. So I looked up terracotta and it was
described as a "clay type earthenware, glazed or unglazed, most commonly
used in the old days as an ELECTRICAL INSULATOR..." (ok, lights are
going on now!) The article went on to say that all clays are the best
electrical insulators because they completely resist the flow of
electric charge? So I took the terracotta cave out (half an hour ago),
and although the EN is still pretty
active, he's just swimming around, he's no longer charging the rasboras
or the tetras. This is really important because he still has two
decorations in the tank, his other caves, that are ceramic but these
items are glazed
(the terracotta cave I made is not). Do you think it's possible this
could be setting off his aggressive behavior through some distortion of
the electrical signals this fish relies on to function in its world?
<It's possible, but I'd have thought less likely than the 'buzz' from
the wiring in and around the tank, such as the lights. But still,
empirical evidence always trumps the theory, so if removing the cave
helped, and he's now settled down, then I'd definitely call this a win
if I was you!
Elephantnoses use their electricity in two main ways, for navigation and
for communication. So far as navigation goes, it's why they keep their
bodies so stiff and straight, and as they release electrical charge,
they detect any distortions in the field they produce, and that tells
them where objects are. It's kind of like radar I suppose. The
communication thing, as we've discussed, includes a lot of hierarchical
elements because there is a best frequency for the navigation field, and
only the dominant one will use this frequency, forcing others to use
less ideal frequencies. The lower down the pecking order you are, the
worse the frequency you're left with.
(If this isn't a good metaphor for Net Neutrality I don't know what is,
but I digress...) Things that interfere or reflect with the frequency
the dominant fish is using will be seen as a social threat. That might
be another dominant fish, in which case they fight, but I suppose it
could be some unusual object that somehow reflects or distorts that
frequency, irritating the dominant fish. Being just an animal, albeit a
relatively smart one, he or she would be angry, but likely to transfer
that aggression to another fish rather than some dumb rock, because he
or she knows rocks aren't social threats! Anyway, that's my theory for
now! Good luck sorting it all out, Neale.>
Re: Elephant Nose - Peacock Eel question 11/25/17
I think your theory is correct - thank you for your help!
<Maybe a hypothesis is a better word! But anyways, good luck, Neale.>
Re: Elephant Nose - Peacock Eel question 11/25/17
If I could trouble you with just one more question, and then I promise
to drop it, but I'm sitting here looking at the Elephant Nose, I can see
he is a lot calmer, but still agitated to a lesser degree. He seems to
be fixated on one corner of the tank. It's where the terracotta cave was
but its no longer in the tank at all. But what is over there are the
tiny, baby bichirs. Could the EN be recognizing their species by sight
and see them as a physical threat, not a social threat.
<By sight, no; Elephantnoses have poor eyesight, and recognising a
'species' isn't really something fish do. A big giant Bichir would be
seen as a threat, sure; a baby one just registers as background detail.
As always with animals, beware applying human motives and human senses
to their world -- we/they are simply too different, and making
comparisons is the pathway to confusion. Elephantnoses primarily react
to electrical stimuli, possibly other fish, but mostly fish that are
emitting electrical fields themselves. They will also react to things
that conduct electric fields in a novel way, such as balls of aluminium
foil in their aquarium.
They are gregarious (so do get lonesome, I'm sure) but also hierarchical
(so become aggressive in small groups). Their secondary sense is taste,
which is what their 'trunk' is all about. So foraging is important to
them.
Think about ways to make their lives more interesting perhaps, by
offering live foods -- baby brine shrimp for example are very popular
with some -- which takes them a while to find and eat.>
The bichirs went into that tank at the same time as the terracotta cave
(I made it for them as a safe haven).
<I would simply observe for now. It may well take time for all to settle
in, and settle down. Cheers, Neale.>
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Re: Got My First BGK; multiple Mormyrid stkg.
5/1/17
If you can stand yet another question from me, I was hoping you could
clear up some information (or, possibly, misinformation) I found on the
internet.
I have read that you cannot (or at least should not) keep more than one
mormyrid in one tank.
<Does depend on the species. Some are quite sociable, and do well in
groups of 6 or more specimens. Indeed, most of them probably are social
in the wild, certainly the class Elephantnose seems to live in big
schools, but the sheer size of the standard Elephantnose makes this very
difficult to accommodate at home. Singletons can do well, becoming
fairly tame if looked after well. A big group should be fine too, but
unfortunately in twos or threes they tend to squabble unless the
aquarium is very large, so they're rarely kept in groups outside of
public aquaria.>
They say that the electrical impulses these fish use to find food would
conflict and potentially cause both fish to starve.
<Correct. Dominant specimens hog the best frequencies, forcing weaker
specimens to use less effective ones, making it harder for them to
navigate and find food. Not a problem in the wild where a big school of
them couldn't be dominated by a single specimen for any length of time,
but in the aquarium, it can be a bully's paradise with so little space
available for weaker fish to move out of trouble.>
I have no intention of getting any more BGK's, but I keep thinking about
the little Elephant Nose. I'd love to have one, and their water
parameters are consistent with the BGK, but I don't want to cycle up
another tank right now.
<I would not mix Elephantnoses and Black Ghosts in the same tank, at
least, not without a Plan B if it turned out the two species didn't get
along.>
Also, I'm concerned that because the BGK comes from fast moving waters
and the Elephant Nose lives in slow moving water, that the Elephant Nose
would suffer in the same tank.
<Quite so.>
Again, this is not something I plan on doing in the near future as I
have my hands full with the BGK. I guess you could say I'm just starting
to research.
<Do review some of the smaller, more sociable members of both these
groups. The Glass Knifefish (Eigenmannia virescens) for example is
fairly widely traded, and small enough that maintaining a group in, say,
a 55-gallon tank
wouldn't be impossible. Such a species could cohabit with tetras and
catfish, if all were chosen with care. Similarly the Baby Whales
(various Pollimyrus and Petrocephalus species) are smallish relatives of
the Elephantnose that are viable in groups if you have the space.
Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Got My First BGK 5/1/17
Thank you again! But I've got my heart set on an Elephant Nose.
<Understood.>
However, given your advice, I think its best that I just focus on the
BGK for now and put off getting the Elephant Nose until sometime in the
future when I'm able to set up a tank just for that fish.
<Wise. Although good community fish in the sense of cohabiting well with
small African tetras and the like, their special food requirements do
mean they're poor choices for rough-and-tumble set-ups alongside species
such as
non-herbivorous catfish and loaches that might compete for food. They
can be picky eaters, but not excessively so, and will adapt to a range
of foods. I memorably saw an adult specimen consuming vast quantities of
baby brine shrimp!>
Thank you so much for all you do!
<Most welcome. Neale.>
Xenomystus and Gnathonemus... stkg.; and tog.
1/22/16
I'm planning a 120 gallon for a group of elephant noses. I'm also considering a
group of Xenomystus nigri, in addition to or replacement of the elephant nose
school.
There is advice on your site about Xenomystus, that adults are territorial but
not so much that it's impossible to keep a group.
<Can be if "crowded"; something like Mbuna cichlids...>
I also found a video of a public aquarium with dozens of adult Xenomystus, (it
was much taller and bigger than a 120), they were active, and not avoiding each
other. So I don't know what that says about their behavior in a smaller group
and smaller tank.
<Ah yes; can be grouped here>
In a 120 gallon, how many Xenomystus could be added to a school of 10 or more
elephant noses?
<About the same number>
Is their a similar approach with Xenomystus and Gnathonemus, keeping them in
larger groups works and small groups leads to problems?
<Yes>
Or is Xenomystus less aggressive and a smaller group of 5 will live together
peacefully?
<Not likely in this large a system... 2 or 3 would likely, or ten or more.
The Notopterids may well pose a problem of out-competing the Mormyrids for food>
Is a 120 with a group of both of these fish too crowded?
<Not likely; though incompatibility for food....>
And finally is it better to use a 4' x 2' x 2' 120 gallon, or the 60-72" long
version that only has 18" of depth?
<For me, for these fishes, the longer and shorter... more bottom area>
Thanks, I don't know if combining these fish is best left to a tank bigger than
a 120.
<Best to not combine, but use other, more mid and upper water fishes as
tankmates IMO/E. Bob Fenner>
Xenomystus and Gnathonemus /Neale 1/22/16
I'm planning a 120 gallon for a group of elephant noses. I'm also considering a
group of Xenomystus nigri, in addition to or replacement of the elephant nose
school.
<They can coexist, given space.>
There is advice on your site about Xenomystus, that adults are territorial but
not so much that it's impossible to keep a group.
<Quite so.>
I also found a video of a public aquarium with dozens of adult Xenomystus, (it
was much taller and bigger than a 120), they were active, and not avoiding each
other. So I don't know what that says about their behavior in a smaller group
and smaller tank.
<Pairs and trios can be a bit unpredictable, but larger groups work better,
especially in large tanks.>
In a 120 gallon, how many Xenomystus could be added to a school of 10 or more
elephant noses? Is their a similar approach with Xenomystus and Gnathonemus,
keeping them in larger groups works and small groups leads to problems?
<Correct; I'd not keep fewer than six of either, which 120 gallons should house
perfectly well. A few more of either, as water quality and filtration allow, and
of course depending on other tankmates, such as dither fish you think helpful.>
Or is Xenomystus less aggressive and a smaller group of 5 will live together
peacefully?
<See above. Xenomystus may be irritated by the electrical signals produced by
the Gnathonemus. So you want space, and I'd suggest a decent number of nice big
ceramic tubes (or similar) where the Xenomystus can rest up, away from the
Gnathonemus. There'll also be a fair amount of competition for food, and I'd
definitely be getting youngsters that I could train to take frozen foods rather
than older, more fussy specimens.>
Is a 120 with a group of both of these fish too crowded? And finally is it
better to use a 4' x 2' x 2' 120 gallon, or the 60-72" long version that only
has 18" of depth? Thanks, I don't know if combining these fish is best left to a
tank bigger than a 120.
<Hope this helps, Neale.>
Mixing FW electrogenic
fishes 7/12/08 Hi! ??? I have a 46 gallon, bowed front
tank which is planted and contains many hidey-holes (small and large).
About a month ago I purchased my first elephant nose fish and his
roommate of one year, a single black knife fish (I love both fish and
didn't want to separate them after so long together). <Mmm,
problematical... electrogenic fishes often don't "mesh"
signal, personality wise> They seem to be great "friends",
first sharing the same clear tube and then moving to the same cave.
I've read many places that since they are both weak electrogenic
fish, they may stress each other. I don't know if I'm hurting
them by keeping them together or if they are just not of the norm and
actually are good together. <Mmm, well... if yours are getting
along... a reminder to all: the "price" of freedom? A:
Constant vigilance... a good spiel for these personal-liberty-stolen
times> Another quick question, I was interested in getting more
elephant nose fish. I heard more then 3, but I'm not sure if a 46
gallon will comfortably house 4 elephant nose. I heard both, that it is
big enough and that it is NOT big enough and? I was looking for a
reliable answer. Please help! And thank you in advance! ~Rachel <I
would not mix more in here... Please have a cautionary, informational
read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/mormyrids.htm and the
linked files in order, above. Bob
Fenner>
Elephant nose
fish... sys., comp. 4/4/08 I was thinking about
getting a ten gallon tank. I want to put an Elephant nose fish in the
tank, some angel fish, and maybe a small bristle nose Pleco and/or some
bottom feeders maybe some Cory cats or clown loaches. What do you think
of this grouping of fish? Thank you. Nick <Hi Nick. In a word, NO!
This combination of fish won't work. Starting at the top:
Gnathonemus petersii is one of the most difficult fish in the hobby to
maintain for any length of time. These things are non-negotiable: a
sandy substrate, excellent water quality, live or wet frozen foods
(bloodworms particularly), and no bottom-feeding tankmates. Most
specimens starve to death, so you have to consider feeding carefully.
Secondly, Angelfish and Clown Loaches and Bristlenose Plecs are all far
too large for a 10 gallon tank. A pair of Angels might fit into a 30
gallon tank along with a few midwater fish, but Clowns need to be kept
in groups (at least three specimens) and ultimately need tanks 55
gallons upwards. Both Clown Loaches and Gnathonemus petersii are
super-sensitive to copper-based medications, and Gnathonemus petersii
especially will be quickly killed by the standard anti-Ick medications.
So before thinking about tankmates for this fish, you need to have a
quarantine tank set up. For a 10-gallon tank, you really need to be
thinking about small, inactive fish around the 1 to 1.5 inch mark.
Shrimps and Nerite snails are also worth considering. If you're a
beginner, steer clear of 10-gallon tanks entirely; they're
difficult to stock and even more difficult to maintain. For
inexperienced aquarists, the 20-gallon tank is the ABSOLUTE minimum.
Hope this helps, Neale.>
African
Knifefish with Elephant Nose... Ost.
comp. 01/13/2008 I've read
conflicting information in various media concerning putting
African Knifefish with Elephant Nose fish. <Indeed?>
I'm moving my 7" African Knife into his own 55 gal
tomorrow and would like to know if I can put my two 5"
Elephant Nose with him. <Possibly, but Elephantnoses do get a
bit territorial, so make sure it has lots of hiding places.
Xenomystus nigri isn't one of the Knifefishes that generates
an electric field, but it is apparently sensitive to them. So
while I doubt the Elephantnose will make a bee-line for the
Knifefishes in the same way it does other electrogenic fishes,
the Knifefishes might get annoyed by the electric field from the
Elephantnose, and that could lead to tensions.> I know both
fish have weak electrical fields. <Xenomystus nigri does not
generate an electric field. Appearances aside, it belongs to the
non-electrogenic Notopteridae Knifefishes, a different group to
the electrogenic Gymnarchidae and Gymnotiformes, both of which
contain true electrogenic species.> Several sources say you
can mix Elephant Nose with African Knifefish but *not to mix them
with Black Ghost Knifefish. A bit confusing because they
don't say WHY. Temperament perhaps? <Black Ghosts --
Apteronotous albifrons -- are members of the electrogenic
Gymnotiformes group, and likely when Elephantnoses and
Gymnotiformes are mixed, the two varieties of fish annoy each
other with their electric fields.> The 2 Elephant Nose bump
into each other but I've not seen any aggressive behavior in
the 2 months I've had them, they seem to get along well and
were bought together from the same tank. <In theory,
Elephantnoses are schooling fish, but in captivity they often
don't get along. The reasons aren't clear for this.>
All 3 fish are great eaters but I'd like to keep them
separate from my other fish because I'm afraid they just
wouldn't be able to compete for food in other tanks.
<Agreed, though provided Elephantnoses are mixed with species
that never take food from the bottom of the tank, they can be
placed in communities. Hatchetfish, halfbeaks, Danios, African
Butterflies and so on would work.> Would it be a reasonable
solution to put them together? There will also be a 1 1/2"
Raphael Catfish but no other fish. <Certainly worth a shot. I
tend to recommend against mixing catfish/loaches and
Elephantnoses because of problems with feeding. But if your fish
are feeding well already, then maybe you'll be fine.>
Thank you for your time, options & your dedication.
Sincerely, Mitzi <No problems, and happy to help.
Neale.>
Re: African Knifefish with Elephant Nose
01/14/2008 I'm going to go look (online 1st) for
"The Diversity Of Fishes" and snatch up the 1st copy I
find, thank you! You can't put a price on a good book that
you can refer back to for many years, I love books. It fascinates
me that if we give a fish what IT needs (physically,
psychologically & diet-wise) that the other aspects fall
together. <Hi Mitzi. Yes indeed... one of the nice things
about keeping fish (compared with, say, dogs) is that it's
relatively easy to create an environment so natural the fish will
complete its entire, natural life cycle in captivity including
social interactions, courtship, breeding, and brood care. Dogs,
by contrast, are largely limited to being pets, and rarely get to
interact fully with other dogs, let alone organise themselves
socially.> Common sense should tell someone Elephantnose
don't need any bottom feeding completion. The fish shop told
me to put them with Loaches and feed only brine shrimp, I just
roll my eyes at them most the time. <All too common. Most
stores see them as oddball "scavengers", which
they're SO NOT!> These 2 will eat just about anything. I
had to get creative but I figured out that if I cut stringy
chunks of any kind of meat or insect they'll devour it.
<Try putting in a small ball made of aluminum foil; supposedly
Elephantnoses find these "toys" fascinating!> All my
tanks have zucchini or squash in them and they even mash their
funny noses into that. I haven't figured out if they're
eating or not yet-but it's sure fun to watch them! <Not
sure if they're eating it, but perhaps. They do hunt mostly
by olfaction, and only secondarily using electric field
detection. Hence they "touch" interesting things with
that chin barbel to taste it.> It makes me wonder if they can
communicate somehow. <Yes. Communication in Elephantnoses has
been much studied and is known to be extremely complex.
Essentially, dominant individuals "monopolise" the best
frequency, and lower status individuals have to use less
desirable frequencies. Within the group, there's constant
jockeying as fish try to use the best frequency (i.e., the one
that offers best navigation resolution). Presumably, they also
use electric signals to convey things like sex and willingness to
mate.> One will find food and 1/2 a second later the other one
will come shooting as fast as he can from the other end of the
tank. Just like chickens. <Hah!> I can't wait to find
that book-thank you so much! Mitzi <There's quite a big
chapter on electricity in fishes; it is a unique sense that fish
have but no other vertebrate (something to remind those annoying
"warm, fluffy animal" chauvinists! Enjoy,
Neale.>
Re: African Knifefish with Elephant Nose
01/14/2008 Food for thought here. There was much you told me
that I honestly didn't know. I don't know where else
I'd have found such specific information (which is why I pick
your brain often). I wish I had access to some sort of a
"fish library" like the medical library we have.
I'd be in heaven. <Hi Mitzi. If there's one book
I'd recommend for anyone interested in fish beyond merely
keeping them alive in a glass box, that book would be 'The
Diversity of Fishes' but Helfman et al. It's a
university-level text book, but so well written, and with so many
diagrams and photos, that I think anyone with even a mild
interest in how fish work and what they do will find it a
fascinating read. Not a cheap book (I think I spent about £50
on my copy ten years ago) but should be accessible through
libraries or used book stores if you don't want to pony up
for the new edition. But trust me, once you've taken a peak,
you'll want your own copy... it's that good!> I did
move the African Knifefish & his little Raphael Catfish
yesterday as planned but did *not put the 2 Elephant Nose in
there, it didn't feel right to do so because the Elephant
Nose are such busy bodies. <Elephantnoses are exceptional fish
in many ways, and great fun once you understand their needs. They
are among the very few fish for which scientifically accepted
"play behaviour" has ever been observed, implying a
level of intelligence well above what we normally associate with
fish.> I didn't want Wendell the Knifefish to be stressed
with all that activity. After reading what you had to say I'm
glad I held off. <Cool.> The Elephant Nose have been in a 3
ft tank with 10 Hatchets and I guess they'll stay there until
the aquarium fairy brings me a bigger tank for them. <Sounds
as if he's happy. You seem to have figured out that
Elephantnoses do best with surface-dwellers. Good call.> Thank
you, Neale. You've no idea how much I appreciate you. <Not
a problem.> Mitzi <Cheers, Neale.>
Re: African Knifefish with Elephant Nose
01/14/2008 So much I didn't know about the
Elephantnose-even after all I thought I'd read. <Always
the way!> I found the book and ordered it on Amazon.com.
I'm so excited :-)) My birthday is Jan 15th so it's a
birthday present to myself, I can't wait to get it! <Hope
you will enjoy.> I actually do understand the interactions of
dogs, to a certain extent anyway as mine are all spayed or
neutered. Dogs were my "1st love" as far back as I
remember. People seldom understand why I 'want' a dozen
dogs in the house but then they don't understand my
fascination with a dozen aquariums either. I see & understand
the interactions between the dogs, I can tell at a glance what
each dog is portraying to another, why they're doing it and
how to either stop or encourage the behavior. The dogs know the
'leader' is the short blonde lady with the aquarium
hose-ha! <You "get it" -- Dogs are happier when kept
in groups of their own kind, not just with people. At the very
least, it's so much nicer for a dog when you take it on walks
with someone else's dogs too, so that they can make a little
"pack" and go do their thing, instead of always
following the Two Legs about.> Sorry to take up your time, but
I learn so much from you and maybe what you write will help
someone else with these same kind of fish. <Who knows!>
Thank you!! Mitzi PS I'll try the aluminum foil with the
Elephantnoses. It'll give me and the Hatchet fish both
something to watch :-) <Let me know what happens. Have read
this, but never seen it. Cheers, Neale.>
|
Parrot fish with
Mormyrus tapirus (freshwater African dolphin) 01/08/2008 hi- I
needed some advice on compatibility between the fish in my tank.
<Ah, these questions always bring up a question of my own: Did you
research the fish BEFORE buying them? Investing in a good aquarium book
is one of the best things you can do.> I started up a 55 gallon tank
about 6 weeks ago. once the tank was set up, I added three parrot fish.
A week later, I added two dwarf Gouramis. <Already bad. Parrot
Cichlids are nasty-tempered Central American hybrid cichlids; Dwarf
Gouramis are small, shy labyrinth fish that are easily bullied and
extremely likely to die anyway because of Dwarf Gourami Disease.>
Then, a week later, I added a black ghost fish and a Mormyrid
(freshwater African dolphin). <African Dolphins can be a variety of
things, but typically Mormyrus spp. Do bear in mind these fish are
territorial (in aquaria at least), very difficult to feed, and a major
challenge for even the most experienced aquarist. Some get extremely
large. Do read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/mormyrids.htm and linked
articles. Black Ghost Knifefish, Apteronotus spp., are only marginally
easier to keep but still get large and remain a major challenge for
anyone. Do see here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bgkfaqs.htm for more.> The
pet store, (The owner of which gave me advice on all the fish,) whom I
had bought all these fish from, did not at any time that I would need
to buy different food for some of the fish. <Uh-oh.> This seemed
odd to me, so I went online about a week after buying the dolphin fish
and black ghost and read that the dolphin needs meaty, preferably live
food. <And neither can really be kept together. They are both
territorial, electrogenic fish that will view each other as, at the
very least, an annoyance. So unless your tank is in the 1000s of
gallons, these are fish best kept apart.> He also looked thin to me.
In a panic, I went out and bought some frozen bloodworms. I have been
feeding them to him for the last four nights. My concern is that he may
not be eating enough. <With Mormyridae for certain, and Knifefish
ideally you MUST quarantine new stock separately. Once feeding and
tame, then move them to the show tank.> The parrot fish, from what I
can see, seem to bully him and he is very shy. <Cichlids are
incompatible with Mormyrids really; at least, big cichlids are. Once
settled in and feeding, you can keep Dwarf Cichlids with Mormyrids
easily enough.> I think they may be eating the food, despite the
fact that I feed him in the pitch dark. <Both these fish prefer the
darkness. They forage at night, partly by smell, and partly using
electrical fields a bit like RADAR.> I should add that I have two
hiding spots in the tank: one ghost tube, that is not in use as the
black ghost fish has taken up residence in the sunken ship. I plan on
buying a cave for the dolphin fish but are my attempts in vain?
<Define "vain". If cared for properly these fish can do
well, but you really do have to work hard at this. If you can't be
bothered, and treat it like a Plec or Guppy, it'll die, sooner
rather than later.> Are the parrot fish too much for him?
<Yes.> Can this be remedied with more hiding spots? <Possibly,
but don't bank on it. Depends on the size of the tank. In a 200
gallon tank with tonnes of caves (i.e., rocks everywhere, so the bottom
of the tank is a maze of hiding places) the Cichlids might simply not
be able to see or attack the Knifefish or the Mormyrid. But anything
less that this is probably a waste of time.> I also keep the
curtains drawn during the day as I know the BGK and DF prefer this.
<They actually don't care all that much, having pretty poor
eyesight. What they want is a tank with lots of 3-D hiding places and
lots of plants as well (plastic are fine). Mormyrids live along rocky
reefs and among the vegetation in rivers and lakes; Black Ghosts live
in deep water at the bottom of major river systems among the rocks and
dead wood. Neither spends much time in the open, at least, not by
day.> Thanks Micaela <Hope this helps!
Neale.>
Re: parrot fish with
Mormyrus tapirus (freshwater African dolphin) 1/9/08 thank you for
your response. I know now better than to simply ask a fish store owner
about compatibility, but to do the research myself. I will be returning
the dolphin fish to the store. <Sounds the best plan of action. Good
luck, Neale.>
Longnosed elephant fish Dear Mr. Fenner: I would like
to put elephant fish <will assume we're discussing Mormyrids>
into a 10gal tall aquarium, but I have read many different opinions on
this fish. I would like to ask you about them. Are they aggressive, or
calm? <Not aggressive, as in "mean" toward other
fishes, unless they are very small... but not "calm" in the
sense that they do move around quite a bit at night time... I
would like to have four (4) elephant in this tank. Would that be
ok? <Hmmm, actually, no... at your prompting, I'll place a
piece I wrote and revised some time back... and images on the
freshwater part of the website: www.WetWebMedia.com... look for it
tomorrow... You want just one of these fishes in such a size system...
they're electrogenic... don't care for being crowded with other
such fishes> since I was told that they like to be in schools.
<In the wild, yes> Does four make a school? Also what kind of
bottom should I have, gravel or sand, have read both, or doesn't it
really matter. I believe these fish are bottom dwellers, and if this is
correct, could I put another type of fish with it? <Yes on all
counts> If that would be ok, what kind of fish would you recommend.
I have another tank with just Cichlids in it, and I know that I would
not be able to mix them. <Other African animals from the same region
would be my suggestion. Use Fishbase.org for help here perhaps...
Otherwise, "community" fishes that aren't
"mean".> I appreciate your help with this matter. Thanking
you in advance for any and all help and advice you are able to give me.
I am just a beginner, and want to learn the right way to do things.
Thanks again. <Glad to help you. Bob Fenner> Sincerely,
Shirley
Mormyrid Madness Hi, I have a Dolphin which
is in the same family as the (elephant nose) fish. I have attached
a picture of what it looks like. <Mormyrus tapirus> I have
had it for about 7 months. I have it in a 75 gallon in with 5
Angels and 3 Discus. The aquarium is by a window but we have really
thick blinds and we keep them closed. The aquarium doesn't
receive direct light. I keep up with regular water changes. I have
well water with a softener. My ph is high (about 8) but consistent.
The temp is at 80. The nitrate is in the safe, the Nitrite is at
the higher side of the safe levels but it may be because I have
been feeding more lately. <Sounds like it might be time for a
better test kit. Please consider anything above zero as
harmful, for nitrite; there really is no other "safe"
level for this. Nitrate is of much less concern, as long
as it's not terribly high, it's okay. What is
your ammonia level? Be sure to check that as well.> I
feed at night, first a little flake to the Angels & Discus,
then I feed either frozen Bloodworms, live Blackworms, or
occasionally their favorite earthworms. <All good> They have
all been doing really great except for just recently. About 2
months ago I noticed the Dolphin started going up to the other fish
and it looked like it was rubbing it's nose/mouth on them. He
started chasing/bugging them more and it has only got a lot worse
with time. It has got so back that he will not leave the Discus
alone. The Dolphin messes with them so much that the Discus have
white marks on there sides and there fins are in bad, torn up
condition. The Dolphin bug them so much that the Discus stay in one
corner up at the top of aquarium. <This is *very* bizarre; this
is a normally quite peaceful fish - it seems you ended up with the
exception to the rule here.> I thought maybe if I feed them more
the Dolphin wouldn't bother them so much. I started feeding
twice a day. I also cut the hours I keep the hood lights on from 12
hrs down to 8 now thinking maybe this would help. Nothing has
worked. I don't know what to do... My Discus must be very
strong as I can't believe they are still alive with the stress
they are put under & the condition they are now in. I don't
think they will be able to hold out long. <They do sound pretty
bad off, indeed. I would be, too, in their situation - I
don't much like my pals biting me ;) > I hate getting rid on
my Discus but don't what them to suffer. I don't notice the
Dolphin bugging the Angels quit as much as the Discus but I
don't know if it will get worse if I remove the Discus. <It
sounds to me like your best bet is going to be to remove the
"problem" fish. I don't think this bizarre
aggression is going to subside. If it were me, I'd
keep the discus and either house the Mormyrid in a different tank
or find it a new home.> Could you please let me know any
suggestions/help you may be able to give or referrals? <You
could *try* removing the Mormyrid to a separate tank for a week or
two, let the discus recuperate, completely redecorate the tank, and
reintroduce the Mormyrid. I wouldn't hold high hopes
of this working, but it's worth a shot. You could
also put a divider in the tank, giving the Mormyrid his own space
and keeping the discus and angels safe from harm.> I would very
much appreciate your time. Thanks in advance, Robyn
<Hope all goes well with your little pal - good
luck! -Sabrina> |
|
Elephant
vs. Parrot Hello, <Hi, Don here> We added an elephant nose to
our tank about a week ago. He quickly found his shelter in a flower pot
and has seemed happy. Last night (and maybe before but we hadn't
seen it) he began exhibiting some aggressive behavior towards some of
the larger tank mates. He totally ignores most unless he bumps into to
them while rooting around for dinner. We have two parrot fish about 3
years olds. Last night he seemed to be attacking them. One was in
another flower pot and had no trouble defending his territory. The EN
seemed to be attacking the larger parrot who was hanging out mostly
towards the top. He would swim along feeling with his trunk and a
couple of time I found him up in the gills of the parrot. <This does
not sound like an attack, more like probing for food. EN do have an
electrical sense, but it is not strong enough to kill. Was he ramming,
or trying to bite?> If this was an intentional attack it was very
cunning and probably shouldn't be a surprise. <I would be. Smart
fish, but not smart enough to reach in and rip out the gills> But I
thought that the EN were only aggressive to their own kind. <My
understanding as well. But each fish has their own traits. You can not
always predict how some will react> The parrot was dead this
morning. <Sorry to hear> What I am now trying to figure out is if
the EN killed our parrot or if the parrot was on the way out the door
and got a little push. The parrot was fine until dinner time last night
and refused to eat and had lost his brilliant orange color. The EN
could have been attacking him for a couple of days and weakened him. He
did eat the night before and thought he ate yesterday morning but not
entirely positive. He typically is the last one we had to worry about
eating. Any thoughts on whether I have a fish eating EN would be
helpful. If he is going to work his way through my tank until he is the
last fish standing, he might be finding a different home. <Being
more active at night, it's hard to say. From your description of
the interaction you saw, I'd say "no". But who knows what
was going on in the dead of night. A few other points. You do not
mention if you Qt'd the EN. Possible he brought something in with
him. Also possible that adding him taxed your bio filtration and you
had a small ammonia spike. Either could be fatal to a stressed or
weakened fish. Finally, what do you feed him? They are fond of small
worms and such. If you changed or increased feeding when you added him,
it is possible that is also taxing your filtration. Please check your
water for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH.> I have seen
many questions about the black spots appearing on parrot fish. In the
three years I have had them, I noticed the black spots were great
indicators of water quality and stress (this may have been answered and
I missed it). It is not a disease. I know the first time we had it, I
ran around reading about it but a quick water change and they were
cured overnight. No medicines are needed. <Good to know. Thanks for
passing this along> I don't support the way the fish are
produced and sold but once they are home they should be well cared for.
<Agreed, but will add that buying this fish only results in more
being produced. Same with "painted" fish. Cruel as it sounds,
if they were left to die in the fish store the manager would not order
more. But you are correct in saying that once you have them you must
give them the best of care.> Thanks Dan
Elephant
vs. Parrot Thanks for the reply Don. <My pleasure> The water
quality is stable. The tank is a 90 gal tank with Emp 400 and hot 250
filters. <Seems great, but...> Ph 7.2, ammonia .25
(always the same reading)<...if you always have ammonia you are
underfiltering for the bio load in the tank. Or you have a bad test
kit. Take a sample to your LFS and have them verify.> and zero
nitrites. Nitrate .2 as well. <I assume this is 20ppm? If really .2,
or even 2.0, I doubt it would show on your test. Anything below 20ppm
is great. But lower is always better.> 1 lg. parrot (was 2), 6 small
Cory's, 2 SAE's, 3 blk skirt tetras, 3 red tetras, 7 dwarf neon
rainbows, 1 clown Pleco, 1 brushy Pleco, 1 Elephant Nose (EN). We feed
flakes in the morning and then frozen food at night with some blood
worms after dark for the EN. We didn't really change the amount too
much just the timing of the feeding. So far the Cory's clean up
what is left by the EN, if not we remove any excess. <Yeah, but what
the Corys eat will still become waste. Removing is the key, uneaten or
digested. What is concerning me here is that .25 ammonia reading. If
verified then you need to reduce the bio load or add more bio
filtration. More likely this is the cause of the Parrots problem than
the EN killing him, IMO. Adding the EN may have been just the last
straw that raised your ammonia production over the ability of your
filters to convert it. Another possible source of the ammonia is old
fish waste in the gravel, under rocks, in caves, etc,. Removing the
ammonia will do more for your tank than removing the Elephant Nose. If
you can add another 400, I'd do it. In fact, I have. I run two on a
55 gallon Pleco tank.> Last
night I noticed him going after our other Parrot (last one for us.) The
parrots have large gill openings and he would run along the body with
his snout and the enter the gill opening and appeared to be trying to
wiggle through with some force. I am still not sure if this is caused
by his poor eyesight and if he feels a hole he must enter or if he is
trying to do damage to the fish. I cannot see if he is actually taking
bites of the gill tissue but he is far enough in. I may have a mutant
EN on my hands. <I still think this is more of a feeding activity
than aggression. In the wild he would probe all the little nooks and
crannies in his area looking for worms. I would think a dead or dying
fish would be a good hunting ground. But all this is just a guess on my
part. I have never seen this behavior and can find not mention of it.
Don> Thanks Dan
Double trunk elephant nose
7/12/05 Dear Sir, I found your publication regarding elephant nose
fish online at http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/mormyrids.htm
I was hoping you could answer a couple of my questions. I recently
bought a "Campylomormyrus rhyncophorus" aka Double trunk
elephant nose fish. I am building an African tank (72g) and I am trying
to stick mainly to west Africa. Upon releasing my new elephant nose in
the tank he was immediately attacked by the Buffalo head cichlid who
also inhabits the aquarium, he was able to remove a large section of
the elephant noses lower back fin. I immediately placed the aggressor
in quarantine. My question to you is how will this fin damage effect
the fish (will it effect his electro navigation), and is there anything
I can do to help? <Am hopeful the Mormyrid was not "too"
damaged, traumatized... the family's members do have remarkable
powers of regeneration... should otherwise regenerate the last bit of
its tail> Also its difficult to find information on the double trunk
species of elephant nose online, do you have a good references? -Mike
Schulz <Only pet-fish ones that are hard to find/reference at small
libraries. Have you tried "Google Scholar?". Pretty much all
that is written re the family itself is pertinent to the husbandry of
this species. Bob Fenner>
Mixing mildly electrogenic fishes... BGK and Mormyrids together?
5/27/06 <<Tom>> I was wondering if its possible to house a black
ghost knife fish with a baby whale? My mum fell in love with one at our
LFS. The tank is a 70 gallon planted discus with two canister filters
going strong, and regular partial water changes. <<First of all, I'm
assuming we're speaking of the Knifefish here. Very cool fish! To answer
your question, this shouldn't be a problem as long as you have hiding
places available. Your tank is certainly of sufficient size to very
comfortably house this animal and I highly doubt there will be any
serious territorial disputes going on. I hope you and your Mum enjoy
your new pet, Jarryd!>> Thanks for your time, Jarryd <<You're most
welcome. Tom>>
Mixing Apteronotids and Mormyrids... not advised 6/3/06
Hello, I recently sent an email to you guys in relation to keeping
a freshwater dolphin in a 70 gallon planted discus aquarium. I received
a reply of yes but forgot to add that I have a 15cm black ghost knife. I
am aware that the ghost has a form of electrical field and was wondering
if his and the freshwater dolphin will fight???? <Too likely, yes> I
would also like any opinions on whether its possible to house 2 black
ghost knives together? I would buy 2 smaller ones of the same size and
house them in a large tank with plenty of logs and hiding places) Have
you ever heard of anyone doing this successfully? <Yes... in very large
systems of consistent low pH, alkalinity...> I just love this fish so
much that I would have 20 of them if I could!!!!! One more thing, how
long will it take my black ghost to reach adult length. <A few years>
thank for your time! Jarryd <Bob Fenner>
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