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Though most members of the Hawkfish family Cirrhitidae won’t “fit”
in systems of just tens of gallons, due to size and/or psychological
need for more space; there are more than a handful that do quite nicely
in little tanks… note; not tiny. These are notably predatory on small
crustaceans; shrimps, and may go after hermits as well.
After acclimating and getting used to their new surroundings for a few
days, hawkfish take up residence in a constantly recirculating pattern
of perching and hiding.
Littler Hawks for Small Volumes: Sizes listed
are maximum total lengths recorded in the wild according to
Fishbase.org; aquarium specimens typically top out at about half this
stated length.
Selection:
A good Hawkfish is easy to find; almost all (wild-caught only thus
far) specimens are suitable for captivity. They ship well and are
relatively parasite free from the wild. Unfortunately, these fishes
often take a beating, being broken out of their coral hiding places;
hence the note below to be patient.
1) Ascertain that the prospective purchase has been at your
stockist for at least a few days
2) Ask regarding its existing habitat water conditions
3) Ask to see the fish eat what you intend to feed it. Hawkfishes
are always hungry. If you ask to see one eat and it doesn't; wait to buy
it!
4) If in doubt, put a deposit on the specimen or leave it for
further consideration.
Torn fins and suspicious blemishes are to be avoided. Curiosity
and activity are requisite behavior for any new purchase. Shredded fins
may be from bad handling or poor water quality; blemishes could be from
parasitic or bacterial infection. In either case these specimens should
be passed by.
Environment:
As mentioned in the introduction; these fishes hide
amongst rock, coral, coming out to perch in good spots to watch the
world go by, and possibly catch lunch. Without crowding out too much
water, you should provide a similar habitat with live and decorative
rock and corals; live or otherwise.
No special consideration is required; just regular maintenance (Savitt
1976). Hawkfishes do well in natural or synthetic water of regular to
lower specific gravity (1.025-1.019). They are not sensitive in terms of
temperature. Low to upper seventy degrees Fahrenheit are suggested for
the entire group.
Despite their, at times, secretive nature, possession of large
eyes and nocturnal habits, Hawkfishes adapt to well-lit aquarium
conditions (Takeshita 1975), so don’t be discouraged from keeping higher
light needing species with them.
Behavior: Territoriality/Compatibility
Hawkfishes are fine with other species as long as their tankmates
are large enough to not be eaten or eat the hawks. Sometimes they can
become territorial after being in the same system a long time (Savitt
1976). Occasional shifting, addition or removal of part of the habitat
alleviates this problem. They may chase other fishes, but rarely do any
damage. In general it is not a good idea to mix Hawkfishes for this
reason. Should you want to try pairing them, provide a divider for a few
weeks twixt the specimens; so they can get a good look (and smell) of
each other, without touching.
As noted for folks with plans for shrimp, crabs, hermits…: Be
forewarned that a Hawkfish’s large jaws and sharp teeth are ideal
devices for capturing crustacea. The small hawk species are ideal reef
additions, but they will eat crustaceans and some worms. Watch out
shrimps!
Oh, and for those looking for an “aqua dog”; these fishes display
human-responsive behavior very readily. They imprint easily and will
"beg" at the surface and feed out of your hand.
Reproduction:
The long-nose hawk is known to lay demersal (bottom) eggs (Randall
1981). Takeshita (1975) describes a courtship dance among a pair in
captivity in the early evenings. He also gives notes regarding sexual
differences. In brief; males can be told apart from females by their
being smaller, more colorful, often with black margins on the pelvic and
caudal fins.
Foods/Feeding/Nutrition:
Hawkfishes spend most of their time perched on a rock or piece of
coral, waiting to make a short fast rush at a food item. Their short,
conical teeth are modified for grasping small zooplankton and fish. They
accept all frozen and pelleted foods readily; with only brief training
from the wild.
Disease:
Hawkfishes are typically "clean" of pathogenic disease and have
low parasite loads. Other fishes in the system will typically show
symptoms of disease before your hawks, and succumb from the same ahead
of them. They are not particularly sensitive to therapeutic agents or
treatment regimens. Quarantine and a prophylactic dips are suggested as
always; enroute from purchase to permanent placement in your display
tank.
Cloze:
Smaller Hawkfishes have many good things going for them for use in
littler marine systems; they are readily available, moderately
inexpensive, hardy, interesting behaviorally, and accept all foods and a
wide range of water conditions. Consider adding one if your other
livestock are compatible.
Bibliography/Further Reading:
Carlson, Bruce A. 1975. A scarlet hawkfish for the Fiji Islands.
TFH 4/75.
Fatherree, James. Hawkfishes, Are they a good choice for your
aquarium? TFH 1/05.
Fenner, Bob & Cindi Camp. 1990. The Hawkfishes, family
Cirrhitidae. FAMA 4/90.
Michael, Scott W. 1998. Hawkfishes. Small, aggressive predators of
the coral reef. AFM 8/98.
Michael, Scott W. 1999. Spawning flames. You could be the first if
you pay attention to natural history. AFM 6/99.
Randall, J.E. 1963. Review of the hawkfishes (family Cirrhitidae).
Proc. U.S. Natl. Mus. 114:389-451
Randall, J.E. 1981. Longnose hawkfish, Oxycirrhites typus.
Freshwater and Marine Aquarium Magazine 8/81
Savitt, D. 1976. Hawkfish. Marine Aquarist 7:4 1976
Stratton, Richard F. 1989. The spotted hawkfish. TFH 10/89.
Stratton, Richard F. 1991. The flame hawkfish. TFH 2/91.
Takeshita, G.Y. 1975. Long-snouted hawkfish. Marine Aquarist
6(6):75
Tinker, S.W. 1978. Fishes of Hawaii. Hawaiian Service, Inc. HI.
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