FAQs about True Puffer
Pathogenic
Disease
(caused by biological agents)
FAQs on: Tetraodont Disease 1, True Puffer Disease 2, True Puffer Health 3, Puffer Health 4, Puffer Health 5, Puffer Health
FAQs on Marine Puffer Disease by Category:
Diagnosis,
Environment,
Nutrition,
Social,
Trauma,
Treatments
Related Articles: Puffers in General, Puffer Care and
Information, A Saltwater Puffer Primer:
Big Pufferfish! by Mike Maddox, True
Puffers, Freshwater Puffers,
Burrfishes/Porcupinefishes,
Tobies/Sharpnose Puffers,
Boxfishes, Puffer Care and Information by John
(Magnus) Champlin, Things That My Puffers
Have Told Me by Justin Petrey,
Related FAQs:
True Puffers 1, True Puffers 2, True Puffers 3,
Tetraodont Identification, Tetraodont Behavior, Tetraodont Compatibility, Tetraodont Selection, Tetraodont Systems, Tetraodont Feeding, Tetraodont Reproduction, Puffers in General, Puffer
Selection, Puffer Behavior,
Puffer
Systems, Puffer
Feeding, Puffer
Disease, Puffer
Dentistry, Puffer
Reproduction, Freshwater Puffers,
Burrfishes/Porcupinefishes,
Tobies/Sharpnose Puffers,
Boxfishes
|
Oh yes; susceptible to many Protozoans, Worms...
and don't care for much in the way of common
"remedies"
... but real cures can be had and are posted on WWM
|
Dog face Puffer which I recently lost. 8/2/18
Hello
<Hello Ashley>
Long story.... I’ll shorten it up a bit. (90 gallon with 30 gallon Refugium and
upgrading later) Water quality parameters were all in spec. 1 leopard wrasse, 2
clowns, 1 Valentini puffer(small) a watchman goby a small flame angel and my
small dog face Puffer.
<Small puffers are harder to get to eat and have lower survival rates than
bigger ones>
My tank was fine. Got an Odonus trigger. After being quarantined then acclimated
seemed ok. He just was hiding so I fed him in his preferred cave. All info I
could look up said this was normal for a new trigger. After a week I lured him
out with food and he was completely chewed up. Most of his tail was gone but the
bite marks match the mouth size of my watchman goby. I removed the watchman to
another tank and hoped the trigger would recover. I was afraid quarantining him
would stress him out too much at first. I pulled him out for a quarantine about
3 days later. He died. ☹️ the trigger was the trigger (for all these problems)
Moving on ... Valentini starts picking on the dog face.
<I suspect the Valentini was the culprit on the trigger bites also>
I removed Valentini and found him a new home. Days later with a few bite marks
my dog face starts to scratch.
No signs of ich yet... everyone is still eating though. Worried it could
be bacterial from bites my lfs advises to try Melafix Marine.
<Worthless med>
I do this treatment .... Seems to help some flashing still on one particular
side.
I start worrying about flukes or other parasites. I didn’t want to remove him
until it became necessary. Angel shows signs of ich now but I can’t see it yet.
I start hyposalinity slowly. Like a small drop like 1-2 ppt every 2 days with a
calibrated refractometer.
<Good move>
I read in several places that this was a safer way for puffers than copper.
<True>
Copper scares me to death. Lfs also advised Kick Ich.
<Another med that doesn´t work at all (Kick Ich)>
I did try it. I am still using it now.(well come back to this) At this point the
Puffer stops eating. I pull to quarantine and slowly bring salinity back up from
1.017 to 1.021 over 4-5 days I don't see ich or anything other than healing bite
marks. I start wondering if it’s a bacterial or an internal parasite because he
got very skinny very fast(about one week).
<Oh yes, they get emaciated pretty fast>
His belly became concave. Lfs said you can’t really treat internal parasites if
they aren’t eating. Bought API general cure and used in water while waiting for
Metroplex on order.
<A much better treatment option but you still don´t know what to treat for>
Contacted a vet and asked about force feeding or tube feeding. They said not
good if he is constipated or blocked. I asked how do I know? Reply was X-ray.
Ugh �� where can I get that? Answer I can’t around here. Sigh. Looked for
constipation solutions -Epsom salt 1tbs per 5 gal. Did that and started with a
bit of brine shrimp soaked in Selcon and vita Chem just to get something in his
belly that was slightly easier to digest and to “wake his digestive tract up”
after not eating for a week. I used a small syringe and tried to get the food
back far enough that he couldn’t spit it out.
<This could have damage it internally>
This helped he was not bloated and didn’t act as though he constipated. I made
sure there was no air in the food. He perked up and started to swim a bit. I
waited and fed for several days. Ammonia .25 starts to climb and I’m doing full
water changes every single day. Used other cultivated live rock in quarantine to
help with ammonia. After I fed him or tried food I vacuumed the bottom of the
glass as precaution. I tried so hard to keep parameters in check. (Before this
sickness he ate everyday and I used a mix of food i.e. squid, Mysis , half
shelled clams, shrimp, all soaked in Selcon and supplements overnight in the
fridge. some live and dried seaweed that I put in there for other fish. ) He was
a bit picky.... He did better for a few days and he Just one day completely went
down hill and died that night.
<Sorry to hear/read that>
I came home found him distressed. Put prime In the water Incase of ammonia and
test it was slightly elevated but below .25. Got water ready and did water
changes and added more carbon Incase of something else was in there. Temp and
salinity was the same. I can’t figure out if it was and internal parasite or if
he got lockjaw or something I’ve never even heard of. Did trim his teeth (super
easy) after so long with out eating they were starting to get longer. His mouth
was open a lot in the last week. Just sitting open. Once I read some about
lockjaw it made me think. I have the iodide test and it was in spec. My display
is ok and ich “free”. (I am running Kick Ich as a precaution and now am bringing
my salinity up very slowly to a preferred level 1.025 and will eventually move
my coral back to my display in a month or so. More ich precaution. My puffer
never got one ich spot that I could see. Quite honestly I went wrong some where
but I’m not sure where. I am kicking myself and trying to figure out what he had
and what went wrong but his symptoms were vague.
<The way I see things; It was a cascade of events derived from stress, You took
desperate measures to save him but, unintentionally you just added additional
stress to the point it was impossible to get it back to health..>
I’m leaning towards internal parasite or vitamin b deficiency, possible lockjaw.
(Not a ton of info on this) . I had him under a year total. I am afraid to screw
up again I loved my Puffer. He was such a ray of sunshine.
<I understand, sometimes we got fond of certain fish>
I found your site and started reading about the vitamin b deficiency issues and
started researching this now. As for running Kick Ich in the display it could
have worked or it could have been the hyposalinity.
<I think it was more likely the Hyposalinity>
I did try to research all these treatments but there’s either no info on these
things or so much info you don’t know what is right.
<It´s easy to get confused when we get different opinions, keep reading to
dispel any doubts>
Everyone else in my tank seems ok now. I’m just not sure if I should treat for
internal parasites with food or what.
<I would not treat the rest of the fishes, do add activated carbon to remove any
remaining meds. Maintain good water quality and Keep a stress-free environment.>
I am also afraid to have another puffer if I can’t give it what it needs.
<Just read more and be well prepared before trying again.>
Still kicking myself
Ashley
<Kind regards. Wilberth>
Re: Dog face Puffer which I recently lost. 8/2/18
Maybe I did stress him but not everything I did was so close together,
things were more spaced out than they seemed.
< I understand>
I kind of agree on the stress but at the same time I just offered food when he
got so skinny so fast. There was a period of time I did try to let him recover.
I just wish I had found your website before this. Is it possible I damaged his
organs lowering the salinity?
<Unlikely, you lower the salinity gradually>
I didn’t do it fast. I did leave him in the display for a while. I guess I did
get worked up because I didn’t do enough for the trigger. I thought had I
treated him before he may have made it. As for the feeding I’ve have tube fed
and syringe fed before especially other rescue animals. I used a syringe with a
small finer softer tube attached and used all the precaution I could. (I should
have been clearer in the original message)
<Ahh, now I get it>
He was so skinny that his belly became concave and his body became curved.
<This may have been something else, the symptoms you describe now indicate
Ichthyophonus disease, which attacks fish internal organs, Fishes that has this
kind of disease typically die up to two months after being infected. Treatment
is hard because of the internal nature of this disease.>
From what I could find and read he was very bad off at this point and I thought
I would give it a shot. Finding real answers at this point was hard. My lfs kind
of just said sorry (like he was going to die anyway) and told me to leave Mysis
shrimp out longer because they are attracted to the food if it’s odorous. (He
wasn’t interested by the way) I just wanted to elaborate that the time frame was
longer than it seemed. I will take the blame here. I know I stressed him out. I
try very hard and maybe too hard.
<Don´t feel guilty, this happens from time to time and sometimes for no apparent
reason.>
I researched before I got him I always try to get the information I can. I
researched the entire time I noticed something was wrong. I have been constantly
researching for weeks. I will continue.
Thank you for your time and advice. I truly appreciate it.
<You´re very welcome. Wilberth>
Ashley
Re: Dog face Puffer which I recently lost. 8/2/18
Thank you.
I will also research this disease for future reference. I really needed a good
outside opinion. I truly appreciate this.
<Glad to be helpful>
Ashley
<Wilberth>
Puffer and Cupramine
5/27/15
Hey Bob, I have a dog face puffer in a bare bottom QT for treating Ich. His eyes
are a little bit cloudy but that's it for symptoms so far. My question is
will 0.3 of Cupramine be enough to rid him of the parasite?
<Maybe... Tetraodontids, puffers in general don't "like" copper exposure....
often kills them w/ exposure... and Crypt can often "hide" buried deep enough in
their copious mucus. Better to use Quinine compounds for Protozoan issues w/
these an many other fish groups... This is gone over on WWM>
He's doing fine now on that dosage and I'm nervous to bring it up to full
concentration. (0.5) Also should I keep him exposed for the full 14 days or
less?
<Mmm; well... insufficient strength in equivalent of Cu++ concentration
will not effect a cure period; only marginally poison fish hosts>
My other fish are in a separate QT with levels of about 0.4 and doing fine.
I just hope that's enough to kill the Ich.
<Should be>
Thanks as always,
-Jay
<Need to test for [Cu] at least daily (twice if it were me/mine) and adjust (add
more). Bob Fenner>
Re: Puffer and Cupramine
5/27/15
Ok, I will begin filtering out the copper with poly filters. Can I still dose CP
after the filters stop turning blue?
<Yes>
I have a container of "Fish Quine" which is CP, but it expired in 2013...
I'll have to order a new batch. I just don't like the fact that the hobbyist
cannot test for it like copper; plus there are so many different conflicting
views on how to properly dose it. I followed the directions during my last
outbreak and killed a pearl scale butterfly. How would you dose it if you had
to.?
<As posted on.... WWM>
Thanks!
-Jay
Serious problem with Dogface Puffer... fdg., hlth. 1/14/14
Hi,
I think I have a serious problem going on with my dogface puffer and
have absolutely no idea what it could be. I got him about 5 weeks ago
and ever since I got him something hasn't been right. I haven't seen him
eat anything at all and I know that he has to of eaten something bc he
would be dead by now.
<Not necessarily... have you searched, read on WWM re?>
I took him out of my display tank 2 days ago because something isn't right
and hasn't been.
<What other fishes are here? Possibly this fish is being
harassed>
He has been very lethargic, just sits on the bottom or hides in the live
rock. When he swims around he runs into the glass and looks like he's
trying to eat it. His eyes are completely clouded over with a few little
white dots on them, both eyes are this way. His fins also have white
dots all over them. Sometimes his fins are at his side when he's just
laying on the bottom. These whitish dots make me think that it's either
Ich or velvet but I'm not sure. Some times he is breathing very rapidly
and others seem like he's breathing normal. I've tried feeding just
about every food possible that I can think of but he doesn't eat it. If
I stick a silverside right by it's mouth it bites at it and takes in a
lil bit then spits it right back out and moves away. I have no idea what
to do, what the problem is, and how I should go about treating it. Any
help would be greatly appreciated because I don't want to lose him!
<... why have you waited five weeks to write us?>
Parameters: Ph - 8.2, Ammonia & Nitrite - 0, Nitrate -10,
Salinity - 1.022
<Read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FishInd3.htm
scroll down to Tetraodontids... health/disease, system, compatibility
FAQs.
Bob Fenner>
Re: Serious problem with Dogface Puffer
1/15/14
I've been reading and reading on WWM trying to figure out what
the problem most likely is
<Seen your pix... at least some sort of Protozoan; most likely Crypt>
but I haven't been able to figure it out. After reading on WWM it seems
like it is Ich or velvet but it's very hard to tell since it doesn't
seem like any of the other fish are acting strange or different. He is
in the tank with a small batfish & a blue velvet damsel and it doesn't
seem like either of them bother or pick on him at all.
<Well, these other species are more "Ich tolerant"... Likely the
system (most are) is infested>
The batfish swims & stays in one area of the tank. I waited so long
because I'm new to this and was thinking that he was acclimating in the
first week or two and it may have cleared up and also was thinking it
was possibly a bacterial infection so I was treating him with an
antibiotic to see if he would improve.
<... you need to act fast, decisively... Either some hypo route followed
by worthwhile treatment (perhaps a quinine cpd.)... I'd be READING, and
ACTING ASAP. BobF>
Re: Serious problem with Dogface Puffer 1/15/14
Here are some pictures I took last night of him in the QT tank after
putting some food for him to try and eat.
|
|
Re: Serious problem with Dogface Puffer
1/15/14
I will get right on it and do hypo. Should I place all the fish in QT and
leave the display tank empty to rid the tank of crypto? Thank you so much
for your help and hope I am able to save him!
<Read on! B> |
Puffer parasite?? 12/7/12
We have a new golden puffer for about 4 months now with no issues..
All of the sudden tonight when we went to feed them he had these rice like
"parasites" all over his body and one of his eyes.
None of the other fish in the tank have any signs of this and he is acting
normal so far.
Any ideas?
<Have tried enlarging some of these "zots" and enhancing the image... They
look like congealed spots of body mucus more than anything discrete; not
like a live organism. Tetraodonts are quite slimy and often particulates
will adhere to them... I'd review what your water quality, any supplements,
treatments you've added to the water... and not treat this fish/system in
any way. Bob Fenner>
|
|
Dogface Puffer, hlth.
1/8/12
Hi
<Hello>
My Puffer has been a bit weird this week and not sure why.
Hope you can help.
Information as best i can.
Nothing has changed in my FOWLR tank in last 6 months. In or
out.
!00 gallon. Oversized Tunze skimmer plus trickle filter.
5 small tankmates.
<Need to know what species>
Puffer about 5 inches. Will be getting larger tank.
Weekly 10% water changes.
Instant Ocean , D&D or Royal nature salts used. (I change
every 25kg to vary elements in my other (reef) tank).
Only 2 parameters not perfect are SPG 1.026. I am dropping to
1.024 over next few days.
Nitrates 15
Everything has been stable and fine till last weekend.
Coincidence maybe ?
<Reads like it>
But I went away for 2 days and decided not to feed fish.
<No problem>
First time i have done this but read it`s not a
problem.
Normally leave neighbour in charge.
Anyway Puffer instead of being very light grey has darker
speckled grey spots. Skin looks a bit like when he has blown up
and come down again...A bit wrinkled.
He is also staying in front of powerhead flow.
<... Mmm, a guess here... this fish might have gotten sucked
up against the intake...>
Then he might hide away in a cave.
Just doesn't look or act the same.
He has flashed against rocks a few times. Not a lot though and no
sign of itch.
He is eating as much as ever and looking for food every time i
approach the tank.
No problems with other fish or any in my other tank.
Both tanks running 18 months ish.
I don`t run carbon in tank but i am going to start soon from what
i have read this week.
Do you think there is a problem here ?
<Don't know for any certainty... But would ask that you
read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/trupuffdgfaqs.htm
and just try to be patient... Highly likely this issue will
resolve of its own. Bob Fenner>
Thanks
Gary
Re: Dogface Puffer
1/8/12
Thanks Bob
<Welcome Gar>
Pathogen or parasite has been suggested.
<... I see in your pix that you have a Paracanthurus tang...
It would be parasitized way ahead and worse than the
Tetraodontid>
I am attaching a before and now photo to see if that could shed
any light.
<I can... there is a disturbing amount of Blue Green Algae
(reddish in this case) coating the back wall of this system. I
would make moves to reduce this. Please read here re: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm
and the linked files above... where you lead yourself>
If so would quarantine and Cuprazin work ?
<I would neither move this fish, nor expose the family to
Copper compounds... please read where you were last
referred>
Sorry for rushed reply but starting to worry.
Have read lots and will continue to do so where you have
suggested.
Regards
Gary
<Ah, good. BobF>
Re: Dogface Puffer
Sorry Bob
Should have added , no actual intakes in tank .
All behind backboard.
Also puffers breathing seems to be getting faster.
Regards
Gary
<The steps to reduce BGA, improve water quality... B>
|
Re: Dogface Puffer, hlth.
concern 1/8/12
Thanks Bob
<Welcome>
Thought same about Regal myself.
Will read up on algae.
The red has been on tank wall since start up but hasn't
increased in last 9 months say but have needed a real scrape to
remove any so just decided to leave it. Thought no harm as not
increasing.
<... not so. Toxic, at times very... ONLY scrape this off when
you have a plan to make a very large water change, vacuuming as
much out as you can, changing or cleaning all mechanical filter
media>
As regards the green algae i have just increased water flow as i
had one of my powerheads greatly reduced running a nitrate
reactor.
<Oh! Of what sort of make up is this? Might be the or another
source of poisoning. What in particular is the feed
(chemically)>
The difference since yesterday is great.
Don`t know if this was the problem but will definitely take your
advice and do some more reading.
Thanks a lot again Bob
Kind regards
Gary
<And you, B> Re: Dogface
Puffer 1/8/12
Hi Bob
<Big G>
Don`t know alot <no such word> about the reactor.
Just that the level of nitrates in tank is higher than what comes
out of reactor.
<Mmm... what do you feed it with... the source of carbon? Is
this a liquid prep.? Is it some sort of bead that's in the
reactor itself?>
Company in England sells many different types.
This is a link to the one i have. http://www.cleartides.com/page20.htm.
Doesn`t actually say what the media is.
<Mmm, I see that they sell a few types... Sulfur, pellet...
You should be able to tell which variety you have... Don't
know that the reactor is a culprit... as other, just as sensitive
fishes are reported as doing fine>
Read about the algae Bob and have increased water flow.
Think i need to up my lighting too. Only have 2x38w on a 100
gallon tank.
Been told on 3 forums this is fine on FOWLR but obviously
not.
<Depends on what you're trying to do... For just barely
lighting photosynthetic life on your rock this should be
fine>
Hope my puffer recovers (still eating today). Do i just leave him
and hope time (and water) heals ?
<Is what I would do yes>
And lastly how soon do i need to scrape algae from tank ?
<... better again for you to read, come to understand the
several approaches to BGA control... develop and incorporate a
several-approach plan>
Bit apprehensive about this job. Will it die off in time if left
?
<Mmm, more likely your livestock will die off first>
Thanks a lot for help Bob. Think you`ve hit nail on the head with
water quality. Was being sent down a few wrong roads
methinks.
Regards
Gary
<Review our prev. emails... READ... understand, then act.
BobF>
Re: Dogface Puffer 1/10/12
Hi Bob
Just a quick update.
Puffer still eating as normal<ly> but flashing and blinking
continues.
Probably a bit more lively too.
News on the nitrate reactor which i had stopped running before to
increase flow and when started again there was a slight ammonia
smell.
<Trouble...>
I had the outlet running outside of tank for a few pints then
returned it.
Have just contacted the maker and he told me it should never be
stopped and started again and to flush out the reactors and begin
maturing again.
This i have done.
Could this have contributed to problems too ?
<Yes>
Cant see it being good
<Me neither. B>
Regards
Gary
Re: Dogface Puffer, now poss. BGA poisoning in
earnest! 1/15/12
Evening Bob
<Geez... the time code above reads as the same time zone (PST)
as here... am just ten minutes behind you Gar... 9:35 AM >
I decided to remove all blue green algae on Friday as i think i
have improved water conditions re your information page and also
think it mainly arrived a long time ago.
<I see>
Basically i scraped the whole back wall of the tank and changed
about 20% of the water. Cleaned all filter media and left tank to
run.
Another 10% change today and cleaned all filters again.
<Sounds good>
The amount of mess in the water was really bad and i am thinking
the tank water has been poisoned.
I am continuing the water changing and filter cleaning regime as
fast as i can.
Should i do anything Else ?
<Run a good deal of new activated carbon, and/or
PolyFilter>
Add anything to water to treat fish ?
<Not I>
I had a dead Damsel this morning and a small clown not
eating along with puffer.
Regal Tang is perfect.
Would you add erythromycin at all now as algae has 95% gone (few
very small patches left).
<I would not. Am not a fan in general of chemical algicides...
for all the reasons posted on WWM>
Grateful for any advice.
Thanks
Gary
<Welcome. Bob Fenner> Re:
Perhaps BGA poisoning 1/15/12
Thanks for quick reply Bob
Think we`re in agreement over chemicals.
Ran a new bag of Rowa carbon from Thursday but threw it away with
today's changes as i thought this too could now be holding
poisons in the sock.
Now the tank is clear of loose algae i will replace it tonight
and carry on with water changes etc... till fish tell me
otherwise.
Thanks again Bob.
Just hope the fish make it.
<Me too>
Regards
Gary
<And you, B>
Re: puffer /blue green algae problem
1/16/12
Hi Bob
<G>
The problems continue.
Regal tang and Yellow Dwarf Angel still showing no bad signs.
That`s the good news.
The Puffer is now being bullied by these 2 fish..
<Needs to be isolated, better, moved
elsewhere>
Will they be doing this as he is vulnerable like other wild
animals do or could this have been the original problem with him
and i hadn`t noticed ?.
<The former>
He is now just lying still and they are swimming over and nipping
him all the time.
<Why is it still there? Move it!>
He is curled up and very dark due to stress. He has a few light
red streaks on his body and fins too. Poisoning ?
<Slightly venomous if/when killed, decomposing>
Do i need to move him to another tank ?
<YES; now>
Wondering if he looks so bad due to the bullying or if
there is another problem. His teeth are showing all the time and
his mouth is in an open position. Skin doesn`t look great
either.
What is the smallest size tank i could safely put him in
for a few weeks just to see if he picks up. Would you suggest
this ? He`s about 5-6".
<Thirty plus gallons>
Thanks
Gary
<B>
Re: puffer /blue green algae problem
1/16/12
I have moved him Bob.
Straight after emailing you. Yes it was obvious really.
He is in my QT tank...20 gallon only .
<Be VERY careful of feeding, DO measure water quality, be
ready to dump, replace (from your main tank) a good deal of the
water... daily!>
Internal filter with sponge taken from one of my reef
filters.
<Good>
I think his problem now is lockjaw.
Been reading up today but he never eats krill so i am assuming
water quality again or stress from the Regal Tang situation.
Does he HAVE to be force fed to cure ?
<Hopefully not>
Going to leave him in peace for a day or two first anyway.
<Good>
Thanks
Gary
<Welcome. B>
|
sick Arothron... Going, going, gone by Crypt
5/24/10
Hi!
I bought an Arothron 2 weeks ago and it is very very sick
now!
<About dead from... Cryptocaryon it appears>
1. Water parameters
a) Temperature range. 82
b) pH. 8.5
c) GH.
d) KH 8
e)Ammonia, Nitrate, Nitrite, levels. 0
f) Water change frequency 20% every month
2. Tank set up
a) Size. 25 gal
<Way too small for this species>
b) Substrate. 0.5" coral sand
c) Filtration. skimmer
d) Furnishings. 20 pounds of stones
e) Other tank mates. /
f) How long has it been set-up? 2 weeks
<... and way too new to add such fish>
g) When was the last new fish added? /
h) Is there a heater in the tank? yes
3. Symptoms / Problem description
I have a fish, probably an Arothron mappa, who is very very sick.
It started when temperature lowered to 71.6 Celsius.
<No>
He has first caught Ich, and is now all skinny and for some
reason cannot close his mouth anymore (showing
his teeth all the time, I have been told his teeth could have
overgrown and the stress could have caused the Ich) and one of
his eyes his like whitish.
He has been constipated, then diarrhea (sorry). We put a shrimp
to eat the Ich off him but either it didn't happen, or it
didn't help.
We are really concerned as he looks ultra weird now!!
4. Action taken (if any)
Introduced a Lysmata shrimp to eat the Ich, didn't work.
Density lowered to
1018.
<Won't work...>
Temperature raised to 82.5. UV filter installed.
5. Medications used (if any)
Sorry for my bad English!
<No worries. I understand you>
Here are two pics of him now
Thank you so much, I cannot find any vet to help!
Rachel
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/cryptpuffs.htm
and the linked files embedded, where you lead yourself. Bob
Fenner>
|
|
Starved dogface puffer; rather Amyloodinium --
09/24/08 We have a dogface puffer named Sammie who up until
recently was perfectly fine. <How long do you have him? Tank size?
Water parameters? Any changes within the last weeks? Need more
information to help you.> We went out of town for 3 days. When we
got back (yesterday) the person who was supposed to have fed our puffer
forgot to do so. <No problem for an Arothron. They can go without
food for weeks.> Ever since then he has gone down hill. <Any new
fish within the last 4 weeks?> He ate the first day we got back.
When we went to feed him today he is covered completely in a white
film, and he is laying on the bottom of the tank in a corner. He
refuses to eat and every now and then he flinches or jerks around as if
he is uncomfortable. He looks as if his breathing has slowed and
he's very lethargic looking. <White film, lethargy are typical
symptoms of an Amyloodiniumiasis, but intoxication can have similar
results. Let's exclude the latter first. Check your water
parameters (pH, nitrates, ammonia, temperature) to exclude some toxic
environmental conditions. Ensure enough gaseous exchange happens
(skimmer, surface current). If you believe anything toxic (not so
aquarium safe decorations?) could have been introduced to the tank
remove it, do a large water change and filter with fresh carbon. If
toxins can be excluded treat for Amyloodiniumiasis. This disease can
kill fish within 24-48 hours. See
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/amylloodiniumart.htm and the linked FAQs for
diagnosis and treatment.> I believe he released some toxin because
our yellow tang and clown fish have both died on the same day. <He
cannot kill other fish with his toxin as long as they do not eat him,
he's not a boxfish. They most likely were suffering from the same
disease/condition.> We are thinking of a FW dip for about 10 min.s.
<I thought you supposed he was starved? How would a dip help in this
case?> What else can we do. I am frantic with worry. If Sammie dies
it will break my heart! Thank you, Ashley <Good luck. Marco.>
Trying to treat a dog face puffer
5/18/10
Please help. I am trying to treat my daughter's dog face puffer for
what I believe to be velvet Ich.
<...? These are two different events, causes... one a
Dinoflagellate, the other a protozoan... Sometimes "treated"
with similar compounds, techniques though>
About 3 weeks ago I introduced a similar size Niger trigger fish to the
tank. It is 110 gal with only the puffer in it
(and a few snails, hermit crabs.
<Food items for these fishes>
Water quality was fine, no ammonia, nitrites, etc, ph 8.2-8.4, temp 76,
salinity 1.026. I removed the trigger after 10
days because I noticed he seemed to be dominating the tank and forcing
the puffer into a small area. A not very happy puffer. After I removed
the trigger, the puffers color seemed off, mottled looking. He did not
seem otherwise ill. After 4 days he stopped eating, stayed mostly in
the rock and exhibited occasional scratching. He also developed a
slightly gold color on areas.
<Ahh! This is symptomatic of Velvet... but this parasite is very
aggressive... IF it were resident, in your system, it would very likely
have killed all your fishes w/in a few days>
I checked the LFS and they recommended adding VitaChem to boost
immunity and he should recover.
<A good idea>
He did not. A couple days later he was obviously very listless and ill.
I (not being a real fish person) did as much research as possible and
came to the conclusion that he most likely had velvet disease. After
little success with Kick Ich
<... worthless>
in the large tang, I removed him to a QT on Sat after carefully
matching the salinity, temp and pH in the new tank. I did a 5min fresh
water dip and a 10sec Methylene blue rinse before putting him in the
new salt water. He seemed very active after the move, mostly, I think
he was angry about going from a 6ft run to 2ft.
Shortly after moving him in noted thread like strings in the water.
<Mmm, most likely "just" mucus... from the dip,
moving...>
He appears to be shedding a slime coat. What do I need to do to protect
him from secondary infections or dehydration, assuming that most of the
Ich has been dealt with?
<Time going by, good care>
I currently have a UV sterilizer attached to the system, a protein
skimmer, biofilter and have added VitaChem and Stress coat plus.
I started a course of Maracyn antibiotic
<Most antibiotics are of little to no use thus administered to
marine systems>
yesterday and did a 25% water change after 24hrs. He was still with us
after 36hr in the QT, so I am
cautiously optimistic. Any suggestions would be welcome.
Thanks
Grateful mom
<I suggest you read: http://wetwebmedia.com/cryptpuffs.htm
and the linked Marine Puffer Disease FAQs files above... and where you
lead yourself enroute... And write back w/ specific questions, concerns
should you have them. Bob Fenner>
Re: Trying to treat a dog face puffer
5/19/10
Bob,
Puff seems to be much better. He was out swimming around last night. I
have deleted most of the copper sulfate with water changes. A second
fresh water dip yielded far less slime shedding and white granules in
the dip. Daily
water changes, VitaChem and UV filtering in QT continue.
<Ah, good>
I think he out of immediate danger from the Ich, but he still has no
interest in eating. He has not eaten for 12 days. Is there anything I
can do to get him to eat?
Thanks for you help
Grateful mom
<Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FishInd3.htm
toward the bottom... the general and various puffer families FAQs on
Foods/Feeding/Nutrition... or use the search tool linked on all left
shared borders with key words... B>
Trying to treat a dog face puffer
5/18/10
Please help. I am trying to treat my daughter's dog face puffer for
what I believe to be velvet Ich.
<...? These are two different events, causes... one a
Dinoflagellate, the other a protozoan... Sometimes "treated"
with similar compounds, techniques though>
About 3 weeks ago I introduced a similar size Niger trigger fish to the
tank. It is 110 gal with only the puffer in it
(and a few snails, hermit crabs.
<Food items for these fishes>
Water quality was fine, no ammonia, nitrites, etc, ph 8.2-8.4, temp 76,
salinity 1.026. I removed the trigger after 10
days because I noticed he seemed to be dominating the tank and forcing
the puffer into a small area. A not very happy puffer. After I removed
the trigger, the puffers color seemed off, mottled looking. He did not
seem otherwise ill. After 4 days he stopped eating, stayed mostly in
the rock and exhibited occasional scratching. He also developed a
slightly gold color on areas.
<Ahh! This is symptomatic of Velvet... but this parasite is very
aggressive... IF it were resident, in your system, it would very likely
have killed all your fishes w/in a few days>
I checked the LFS and they recommended adding VitaChem to boost
immunity and he should recover.
<A good idea>
He did not. A couple days later he was obviously very listless and ill.
I (not being a real fish person) did as much research as possible and
came to the conclusion that he most likely had velvet disease. After
little success with Kick Ich
<... worthless>
in the large tang, I removed him to a QT on Sat after carefully
matching the salinity, temp and pH in the new tank. I did a 5min fresh
water dip and a 10sec Methylene blue rinse before putting him in the
new salt water. He seemed very active after the move, mostly, I think
he was angry about going from a 6ft run to 2ft.
Shortly after moving him in noted thread like strings in the water.
<Mmm, most likely "just" mucus... from the dip,
moving...>
He appears to be shedding a slime coat. What do I need to do to protect
him from secondary infections or dehydration, assuming that most of the
Ich has been dealt with?
<Time going by, good care>
I currently have a UV sterilizer attached to the system, a protein
skimmer, biofilter and have added VitaChem and Stress coat plus.
I started a course of Maracyn antibiotic
<Most antibiotics are of little to no use thus administered to
marine systems>
yesterday and did a 25% water change after 24hrs. He was still with us
after 36hr in the QT, so I am
cautiously optimistic. Any suggestions would be welcome.
Thanks
Grateful mom
<I suggest you read: http://wetwebmedia.com/cryptpuffs.htm
and the linked Marine Puffer Disease FAQs files above... and where you
lead yourself enroute... And write back w/ specific questions, concerns
should you have them. Bob Fenner>
Re: Trying to treat a dog face puffer
5/19/10
Bob,
Puff seems to be much better. He was out swimming around last night. I
have deleted most of the copper sulfate with water changes. A second
fresh water dip yielded far less slime shedding and white granules in
the dip. Daily
water changes, VitaChem and UV filtering in QT continue.
<Ah, good>
I think he out of immediate danger from the Ich, but he still has no
interest in eating. He has not eaten for 12 days. Is there anything I
can do to get him to eat?
Thanks for you help
Grateful mom
<Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FishInd3.htm
toward the bottom... the general and various puffer families FAQs on
Foods/Feeding/Nutrition... or use the search tool linked on all left
shared borders with key words... B>
Puffer with parasite(s).. or not? With --
1/22/10
Hello crew,
<Andrew>
I have a 4.5 year old Stars and Stripes Puffer that I emailed
about a few days ago, I rescued him from my LFS as he was in a 37
gallon tank, I'm in the process of cycling our new 215 gallon
tank, and he'll be going in that shortly. He eats like a pig
and I try to feed him a varied diet soaked in Zoecon supplement.
I was just looking at him up close and he has these little specs
on all of his fins, I can't tell if they're micro air
bubbles or something else, water parameters are as follows:
<Looks like Crypt from here>
Salinity: 1.025
pH: 8.3
Ammonia: 0 / Undetectable
Nitrites: 0 / Undetectable
Nitrates: 0 / I saw a ever so slight hue in the tester so it
could possibly be 2-3
Calcium: 470
<A bit high... and Mg?>
The water seems fine and I do 30% - 50% weekly water changes just
to ensure things stay okay as he creates a large bio-load and
he's currently in my 55 gallon tank until the larger one
cycles. If you have any idea please let me know! By the way,
he's 13" long so a freshwater dip would be extremely
hard as he's not a fan of being netted.
Thanks again for everything you guys do!
Andrew
<Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/cryptpuffs.htm
and the linked files above... and soon. Bob Fenner>
|
|
Sick Dogface Puffer; swollen jaw --
04/30/08
Hello, my name is Jon.
<Hi Jon.>
I have a dogface puffer, now in a quarantine tank. He has a
severely swollen jaw, and is not looking well. I dosed the tank
with E.M. Erythromycin
<Does not work for most marine bacterial infections.>
, and was hoping you knew what was wrong with him and what should
be done next.
He is normally kept in a 40G acrylic tank, with a sump / wet dry
filter.
<Too small. While you may be able to keep the water quality
with water changes, this small tank will affect such a puffer
psychologically, impair its immune system.>
I do my water changes regularly, and my nitrates are below 20ppm
and the pH is kept at 8.2.
<Good.>
He is the only fish in the tank, other than a Clark's
Clownfish. This one is the third one I've had that has
cropped up with this disease now, and I've had him just over
a month. On the other two puffers, the puffed up spot was in
different places (one had it on his back, the other on his jaw
like this one).
<I guess the dead puffers have not been examined? Would have
been extremely helpful now'¦>
The system was bought new, and I've never used copper or any
other medications in the tank.
<So the system is new'¦ and the substrate, water,
rock, filter material? If they are new, too, are the puffers from
a common source/shop? If so, I'd inform them about this
disease. Find out were the disease came from.>
My aquarium reads these parameters right now:
Nitrate = less than 20ppm
Nitrite = 0ppm
Carbonate Hardness = 90ppm
Calcium = 415ppm
Phosphate = 0ppm
pH = 8.2
<Sounds ok.>
And the quarantine tank (cycled, with a backup filter):
Nitrate = less than 10ppm
Nitrite = 0ppm
Carbonate Hardness = 100ppm
Calcium = 400ppm
Phosphate = 0ppm
pH = 8.2
<Sounds ok, too.>
He has just been going downhill since I noticed the disease.
Please help me out!
Thank you, Jon
<I'd start using an antibiotic for gram negative bacteria,
especially if the erythromycin shows no effect. Maracyn II is
such a product. Also try to find out how this disease was
transmitted, feed vitamin enriched food and consider having this
puffer in a significantly larger tank in the long run. Good luck.
Marco.>
|
|
Tank with puffers, a moray eel and Amyloodinium (velvet) --
05/08/07 Hello <Hi Amanda.>, I believe that our tank has
velvet. We have a dogface puffer, a stars-n-stripes puffer, a tiger
reef eel, live rock, snails and hermit crabs. Our tank is 125 gallons.
I want to use CopperSafe to clean out the whole tank. The directions
say to add it only once and it treats for a whole month. <If you
treat your display tank, you will kill a lot of your beneficial
bacteria. Monitor ammonia and nitrite if you treat it that way.> I
know I need to take out the live rock, snails, and hermit crabs and I
need to clean out the tank very well after the treatment is
over. My questions are - Can I leave my puffers and eel in
their 125 gal tank while I am treating it? <The moray eel should not
be treated with copper, except if it shows symptoms. Puffers can be
treated carefully, but bare in mind that overdosing can be lethal.
It's appropriate to get a testing kit that can be used with your
copper product and to monitor the copper concentration at least once
daily.> My quarantine tank is only 25 gallons and if I stick all of
them in there, besides being stressed, doesn't it defeat the
purpose of the quarantine by only treating the fish? <No. The best
would be to treat the two puffers in a bare bottom quarantine tank with
copper and to let the display tank run fallow for about 6 weeks
(without using copper in this tank). If the moray eel does not show
symptoms, I'd leave it in the display. That way you are taking the
risk that the parasites may use the moray as a host, but this case is
rather improbable due to the high resistance of these fish against
Amyloodinium. If you do not want to take this risk, you need a second
quarantine tank for the eel, which is not treated with copper.> Do I
still give them freshwater dips to get the parasite <off>, while
I am treating their tank? <Such dips can be done in severe cases to
get rid of some of the parasites.> Do I dip the eel? <If it shows
any symptoms: yes.> How do I dip an eel? <A bucket of well
aerated, pH and temperature adjusted freshwater. Catch the eel with a
net and transfer it to the bucket. If you cannot catch it with a net,
lure it out into a clean bottle with a large enough opening and a piece
of its favourite food and transfer it. Put a lid on the bucket. Leave
it there for about half an hour to one hour. Return it to the tank.>
Do I also have to wait a month before putting the live rock and the
invertebrates back in or how long do I have to wait? <If you treat
your display with copper, you should filter with fresh activated carbon
after 4 weeks and hope none of the copper remains in the substrate.>
I know this needs to be treated now, but my puffers are my babies and I
don't want to hurt them. <I'd consider what I described
above as the best way. Also read http://www.wetwebmedia.com/cuduration.htm and http://www.wetwebmedia.com/amylloodiniumart.htm and the
related FAQs.> I know I have a lot of questions for y'all. I
would appreciate your help, so I can make my fish happy again. <Hope
they pull through.> Thank you so much for your time. <You are
welcome. Marco.> Sincerely, Amanda.
Dog face puffer with wart like growth 03/18/07 He is rather
large, approximately, 5-6 inches. He is eating very well, making a pig
of himself actually. He got a little constipated the last couple of
days, but has managed to move past it. <Provide a varied diet of
mussels, cockles, prawns and other uncooked seafood to prevent
constipation and deficiency diseases.> He is currently in a 125
gallon tank, and seems fine. <Watch your water parameters,
especially ensure that the nitrates stay below 30 ppm.> He will rub
his teeth against the tank sides, and make weird sneezing noises. Why
is he doing this? <Natural behaviour, nothing to worry about as long
as his teeth are short enough to allow him to eat.> Also, he has two
white, kind of warty looking things on his tail. They have not grown or
spread, and do not appear to be causing him any discomfort, doesn't
even appear to notice it. Should I be concerned? <Have a look at
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/viraldislymph.htm and the related
FAQs. If your puffer has Lymphocystis, provide a varied diet and high
water quality and he will get well by himself. You can soak his food in
vitamins to support his immune system.> Otherwise, he seems to be
getting along fine. Taste testing the two chocolate chip starfish every
once in a while, mostly leaving them alone. He lives with 4 damsel
fish, which he once on a while, half heartedly nips at, but mostly
leaves alone. He sleeps in a cave on the sand, with his tale curled
around him like a dog. Any advice you can offer is greatly appreciated.
<I hope I could help. Cheers, Marco.> Samantha
Dogface with Whitespot? 1-7-08 I have a
Dog faced Puffer which I have had for about 2 weeks now -- up
till now he has been fine however recently I switched on my
skimmer again and have had a few bedding in issues one of which
is lots of micro bubbles. The tank has been up and running for
about 6 weeks and all other fish are doing fine. All water
parameters are good. The dog faced puffer seems to have lots of
little white spots on it (not 100% sure if these are micro
bubbles or spots). I have attached a couple of pictures. I have
turned off the skimmer to remove any micro bubbles and see how he
looks in the morning but I am now paranoid that it is white spot.
If so want to catch it as soon as possible so I can put in
quarantine and get it cured. <I don't think that these are
micro bubbles due to the spots on his fins. I believe this may be
white-spot but as long as he is eating well and being social I
would just keep an eye out on him. If it gets worse then go ahead
and quarantine.> PS- Puffer feeds well -- from my hand --
feeding him lance fish, prawns, mussel. Tank is 450L. Parameters
are: Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 20, SG 1.023, PH 8.2 Regards,
Steve <Good Luck with your puffer, Yunachin>
Re: Dog Face with Whitespot? 1/8/08 Bob,
please find attached pictures taken today after the skimmer has
been off for approx 18 hours -- looks better -- less spots for
sure but there are still spots. <Yunachin, here. Very handsome
fish!> What do you think, should I QT this fish??<Since
keeping the skimmer off for as long as you did and there are
still spots on the puffer I would say that it is Ich. Yes I would
go ahead with treatment.> Regards to QT I have a 75 Litre bare
tank and have started making RO water to fill it with. I take it
I just mix up the salt, heat and a sponge type filter, add the
fish -- in terms of water quality I guess I just have to do daily
water changes -- any advice appreciated. <I would recommend
removing some water from your main tank and putting it into your
quarantine tank because you need to cycle the tank if not, taking
up valuable time that you may not have. Check out this article
for more details: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/QuarMarFishes.htm ;
Also here is an article on marine Ich and the many treatments
that you can choose from:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ichartmar.htm; > <Good Luck and
Steve
|
"Normal" markings. RMF
|
White pimple like bump under my fishes mouth
help! -- 09/20/07 Hi, you can see in the pictures, if you look
at the clown trigger. <I see.> (who I had brought like 2
weeks ago with the white bump under his mouth <buying a sick
fish is never a good idea, not quarantining it is even worse.>
and wasn't eating at first, but now the last 4 days been trying
to eat everything in sight) has it under he's <his> mouth
(white bump). <See that, too.> The dogface puffer (who
hasn't eating in like a month and a half) <That's why
he's so skinny.> has a white bump under his mouth, too now
(after the arrival of the clown trigger)! The white bump has depth
to it and you can see it from the side. What is it? <Can't
make it out clearly in the pictures. Too blurry. It could be
Lymphocystis (a more or less harmless virus, bumps look like
cauliflower) or (more likely) a bacterial infection. Most likely
related to poor water quality. What are your nitrates? Are ammonia
and nitrites 0 all the time?> Could the puffer caught this white
bump from the clown trigger? <Theoretically: yes, but also
possible is these bumps have a common environmental reason.> How
do I treat it? <Measure your nitrates. If they are above 20 mg/l
do a large water change to bring them down accordingly (e.g. if you
measure 100 mg/l you have to change at least 80%). Clarify if these
bumps look like Lymphocystis by comparing them to Lymphocystis
pictures online and in books. If they look different, consider a
treatment with antibiotics in a separate hospital tank or with
antibiotic baths. Feed your fish a varied, vitamin enriched diet.
As a side note: I am not a native speaker, but I think I remember
'I' as well as the beginnings of sentences should be
capitalized. This could speed up our answering process. You are
welcome. Marco.> |
|
Sick Puffer or just odd
behavior? 1/28/07 Hello Crew, <Lisa> Sorry to
bother you with yet another Puffer question. My Stars
and Stripes about 3 1/2 inches) is doing this odd thing......He
will start at the top of the water and dive (or "swoop")
down to the bottom, rubbing his belly on the crushed coral
below. I have even seen him do it a few times on the
live rock. Does he have a skin condition or something
internal that is disturbing him? <Mmm, not likely> Or is he
acting out with some kind of discontentment related to his tank
situation? <Possibly... but more likely this fish is reacting to
its own reflection...> His appetite is great (in fact, I had to
separate him from the others because he was eating ALL of my
crustaceans and was about to go after my beloved cleaner shrimp,
who he had, for several weeks, seemed to have some affection for
(allowing them to massage his back and even taking afternoon naps
with them - please excuse the run-on sentence!) I also
found out that he was nibbling (but not ingesting) my LTA which
never recovered and died a horrible, messy death. <These animals
are incompatible> I was told that he would not get any larger
than 8 inches (like the dog-face), and then learned that this is
not so. True? <This is not so...> I am considering
adopting him out to somebody with a bigger tank who can give him
the life he deserves, but want to make sure he is totally healthy
first. <Good> Thanks for all your help and support. Lisa
Crugnola <Mmm, try taping a piece of paper or such to the
outside panel where this behavior is occurring... Bob
Fenner> |
Cleaner Damselfish 2/22/07
Hello Bob and Crew, <Hi, Pufferpunk grabbed this one from the
Inbox.> I have written in before about my Stars and Stripes
Puffer, "Blinky" and his odd behavior of suddenly and
quickly diving down and scraping his belly on live rock and coral
gravel. Bob suggested that he might be reacting to his
own reflection, although I pretty much ruled that out after hours
of observing him (mostly because he will be positioned at one end
of the tank and starring down the full length of the 48 inches of
tank with rock, and other decorations blocking his
view. He also positions his body vertically, looking
straight down at the gravel, hovering for several seconds before he
takes his dive). <Goofy, puffer-antics... or an itch
caused by parasites.> Additionally, his appetite and every other
part of him remains normal. Anyway, he was doing it so
much (several times trying to jump out of the tank and violently
hitting the glass top) that it became disturbing to
witness. I actually had to leave the room. I
thought I had a suicidal Puffer on my hands. <Many a
puffer has been known to go carpet-surfing.> However, refusing
to give up I tried putting several small fish (Damsels) on his side
of the partition. <Partition? How large
is this tank? Your S&S puffer will grow quite large,
requiring at least a 180g tank. See: http://www.thepufferforum.com/forum/ug.php/v/PufferPedia/Marine/A_Hispidus/
> The reason for this? The first several weeks I had
him, he was enjoying the general population and full run of the
tank (pre-eating and killing my LTA) <Most puffers are NOT reef
safe.> and he never engaged in this odd "diving"
behavior. I thought, "Is it possible that he is
lonely?" To make a long story a tad less long; I
put the two fish on Blinky's side of the tank and it seemed to
have a calming effect on him almost immediately. At that
time I also realized that the Puffer was looking a bit
"raggedy" from repeatedly scraping his delicate
underbelly on the jagged rock and gravel. There were no
actual lesions or anything resembling an open wound,
though. If I had to describe it I would liken it to a
close shave (human) resulting in some flaky skin. Blinky
literally had flaky pieces hanging from his chin (mostly) and some
from his belly. <More proof of parasites
IMO. Their skin is not delicate, actually the
opposite. More like prickly leather.> I was
recommended by my LFS to put a cleaner shrimp in with him to
attempt a cleaning (before the poor invert was gobbled up as
thanks; not a consideration). But then several days ago
I noticed the small Humbug damsel was gently taking small, swift
nibbles at Blinky's underside. In fact, every piece
of flaky skin was gone and the Puffer was looking clean as a
whistle. He was even hovering, completely motionless,
seemingly enjoying the service AND the attention. This
service/relationship continues almost a week
later. Although occasionally one little nip may seem a
bit too hard for the Puffer and he will wince a bit and shake his
head back and forth like a Ferret. I don't think it
is an aggressive act, nor do I believe that either fish believes
that it is aggressive (the Puffer has never tucked is tail into his
body as he does when upset or intimidated during any of
this). But I have read about Puffers having skin and not
scales and that their skin is sensitive. FINALLY - MY
QUESTIONS.....Is the current Puffer/Damsel relationship worth the
risks? Is it a true symbiosis or freak of
nature? I have heard of cleaner shrimp, but don't
have any knowledge of cleaner Damsel fish. Is it unusual
for a Damsel to engage in this type of behavior? So,
what are your thoughts on this odd relationship? Should
I separate the two or give it some time? <Very common for a
smaller fish to become the cleaner of a larger fish. One
of my favorite places to hang out in the ocean on a dive, is the
cleaner station. Sounds like the puffer & the
damselfish know their place & the puffer will let it stay that
way... for now... you can never trust a puffer! Check
out www.thepufferforum.com, for more info on your
puffer. ~PP> Thanks for enduring my long tale!
P.S. Bob - enjoying your book immensely! <<Ah,
good. RMF>> |
Re: Treating Puffer
Parasites 2/23/07 Hi Crew, <Lisa> Quick
question....Pufferpunk just suggested that my Stars and Stripes
Puffer may have parasites. What's the best way to
treat him and with what specific medication? Can I
remove him from his current tank and treat him in a ten gallon
hospital tank or should the entire population be
treated? Also, will the recommended meds be tough on the
inverts? Thanks for your help! <I think the cleaner
fish may have taken care of that. Just in case:
http://www.thepufferforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13
Lisa |
Re: S & S Puffer Parasite
2/25/07 What if the parasites are internal?...... <From
your description Lisa, I was thinking external. You
didn't describe any symptoms of IPs.> I went to the puffer
forum and everything there seems to be for external
pests. Also, a lot of treatments apply to fresh water
and pond. What have you personally used on your marine
puffers and how did they respond to treatment? Please
be specific, if you wouldn't mind. <I
haven't ever treated for EPs on SW puffers. I
suggest posting in the Hospital forum at TPF.> I am concerned
that it might be internal because he is still diving and
twitching. <Definitely signs of EPs, not IPs.>
A particular brand of medication would be appreciated.
<Generally, hyposalinity is best. Look very closely
for white spots on your puffer. There is a marine
puffer expert, Kelly Jedlicki (Puffer Queen), that is a mentor at
TPF. She can help you with this. ~PP>
Thanks, Lisa P.S. I have had pond fish who seemed fine
for a year, eating and acting healthy, then dying
suddenly. I guess because I couldn't see the
damage that was happening on the inside. I
would hate to see that happen to my Puffer. Again,
thanks!
|
Re: Ich or not? SW Tetraodont dis.
2/27/07 Hi Crew, Hope you are not getting completely tired of
me writing in about my "diving" Stars and Stripes
Puffer named Blinky, apparently afflicted with some type of
external parasite. <Apparently may be the operative term
here> He does have a cleaner fish <A Labroides may be more
detrimental than useful here> and they both seem to be
enjoying each other.... However, the Puffer has a pimple (?) that
looks like a grain of salt (even smaller) under the thin membrane
of his pectoral fin..... <Only one? I wouldn't be
concerned> he has had this since I got him over a month ago;
it has not moved or changed in size. This spot is NOT
white nor does it look like any of the "Ich" pictures
in Bob Fenner's book. <I assure you... from your
description... it is not> It is the same greenish color of his
fin, like a tiny bubble or cyst. I also noticed two
small (same size) cystic spots on his top (dorsal) fin near his
tail. Unfortunately, I don't know if these two
cysts were there from the start like the one on the
fin. There are absolutely no white spots, bubbles or
anything that looks like illness on his entire body (except for a
bit of hanging skin from his chin where he has rubbed
himself). I have searched and read on your site and
others on the net and I am still in the dark. Is this
Ich or something more benign?..... <Likely nothing to treat...
could be encysted worms of a few sorts... Microsporideans... You
won't be able to tell w/o microscopic examination> Should
I put him in my ten gallon hospital tank and try the hyposalinity
treatment for 4 weeks? <I would NOT> I worry about
stressing him out unnecessarily, but will do whatever you
advise. Should I also treat with copper, MelaFix or
Pimafix? <None of the above> I want to do
what's best. Thanks for your help. Lisa <Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fishindex3.htm scroll down to
the puffers area... Re disease of puffers in general, Tetraodonts
in particular. Bob Fenner>
Re: Ich or not? Ongoing Tetraodont hlth. 2/28/07 Hi
Bob, Okay....Now there seem to be more salt-grain-like spots cropping
up, several on his tail (small) and a cluster of tiny ones on his anal
fin.......BIG QUESTION....if the one on his pectoral fin that has been
there (and the same size) for the past month, has not moved or changed
in size does that conclude, without a doubt, that it is NOT Ich?
<Nope> I have read about the life cycle of the little critters
and should it have not dropped off and into the substrate and becomes
an encapsulated cyst called a tomonts by now if it were Ich?.
<Yep> I have also read that they come and go (the spots, that
is). So since the very first one I saw four weeks ago is
still there PLUS new smaller ones, what the heck do you think it is?
<Perhaps... just reaction/mucus... to?> I want to catch it before
it gets out of control, but without knowing what "it" is I
remain stymied (do ya blame me?) ....If this is, by chance,
"Ich" I don't want the situation to end in me having to
do the fallow tank routine...... But I did your recommended reading and
I will "paste" the following instruction from Anthony on your
site..........<you are doing fine... FW dips daily of 5-10 minutes
each for 5-7 times in next week may effect cure without any meds. A
bare-bottomed QT tank would be best though>......but like I said,
the spots that show up are NOT going away. They are also not
a bright white as I mentioned before. I also read that
saltwater Ich likes higher degrees of salinity, which by coincidence I
have been struggling with since adding a metal halide light and have
had increased evaporation. So was it a coincidence that
these extra tiny new salt-grain type spots show up during this period
of higher salinity? <More likely stress-related in general, due to
the bright illumination> I am thinking about Anthony's advice
for the QT and wondering why you say "no" so
definitively. Is a ten gallon tank too small for a 3 1/2
inch Puffer. <Is risky... due to metabolic and psychological
factors> But should I risk the Ich? <If your system
had/has Cryptocaryon, you would know about by now> I have to go away
for a few days and don't know how to leave him; where he is or in
the QT. HELP! I am in such a
quandary. I have read and read and have found nothing that
seems remotely explainable (regarding symptoms described) other than
the dreaded "Ich". Thanks. SORRY THIS IS SO LONG! Lisa
<There are a number of "things" in the way of parasites
that appear as "spots", "dots" in such fishes... as
well as "pimples" from stress, mechanical injury, interaction
with tankmates... W/o microscopic examination there is only
speculation... I would not act overtly given the information presented.
Bolstering metabolism via supplemented foods is about all I would do
presently. Bob Fenner>
|
Treating Dogface Puffers with
"Ich" 1/4/07 Hi, <Hi, Pufferpunk here> I
have 2 dogface puffers and they recently got Ich. I added a Koran angel
and I think that it has stressed them out. <Did you QT the angel
before adding to the puffer tank? That's where the
"Ich" came from.> I was wondering if a 20 gallon
quarantine tank would be big enough for them? I have an
extra heater and Emperor 400 filter that I was planning on using.
Thanks for all your help. <It depends on how large your fish
are. Please read: http://www.thepufferforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4576
Also, please be sure you use proper capitalization &
punctuation. We have to correct this, before posting on our
FAQs. Thanks, PP>
Dog-faced puffer fish conundrum 11/13/2006 Greetings,
<<Hello.>> My brother does not have internet access, so I
am sending this question by his request. We have checked
your site for puffer fish information, and found much of it very
helpful in diagnosing fin rot and reoccurring
Ich. His dog-faced puffer has been treated for
Ich (using prevent-Ich per advice from PetCo), <<Did your brother
read anything on the site?>> But the Ich came
back. The fish has been in the tank for a week now, and got
sick on the third day. The fins have all the classic markers
of fin rot, e.g.. frayed edges, and what appears to be mucus or
'hairs' stringing out from the fins. There are small
gray blotches (about the same size of the Ich spots) around the head
and upper torso area. There is a large patch of white discoloration on
one of the pectoral fin. The fish is lethargic and lies on
its side at the bottom of the tank, does not eat, and sleeps on the
power head (near the top of the water line where a power cord emerges
from the water). My brother is going to begin
"hospitalization" with Quick Cure by Aquarium Products and FW
baths. The fish is in a 55 gallon tank by
itself. The tank's set up is crushed coral, live marine
sand, and a large (dictionary-sized) rock. Last week there
was an issue with pH. It had gone above 8.6, but the issue
was remedied. What the heck is going on with this tank/fish?
<<How did he cycle the tank? I think this is environmental more
than anything. He needs to get on mega water changes, and
get Bio-Spira if available. What are the readings for
ammonia, nitrIte and nitrAte? The 55 gallon tank is not
large enough to house this puffer long-term. Please get back to me!
Thanks for your help, Lee <<Glad to help, Lisa.>>
Dogface Puffer with Ich... Same One That Had a
Powerhead - 2/21/2006 <Hi there, Leslie here with you once
again.> Ok well my little guy is still kicking. <Glad to hear the
little guy is still with you.> Not eating but is picking at rocks at
tank. <Oh bummer I was hoping he would be eating by now.> I'm
currently medicating him with PimaFix and MelaFix along with some Zoe
and crushed garlic in a jar that was in the spice section of my
Wal-Mart. Well after dosing him last night with his medication and
garlic this morning I checked on him on my way to work and he is
covered with round spots that are raised about the size of sand all
over his body fins and all some on his eyes. My question is this, what
should I do, his skin is already sensitive on him since he is growing
new skin from the accident with the powerhead and stressed out. I
don't know if doing a freshwater pH adjusted dip would help or make
him worse at this point. <It's hard to say. I would want
certainly minimize stress at this point. I find Puffers in general
tolerate FW dips very well but since your guy has been through an
ordeal and is still not eating. I think I would error on the side of
caution and by pass the FW dip at this time.> I turned his temp up
to about 82 today and turned on a airstone with a powerhead attached to
increase oxygen in the tank. <Good plan for starters.> Can I
treat him with copper or would you recommend something else. I have
used coppermine in the past but that was on clownfish and it worked
great. I just don't want to lose the little guy. <I would not
want you to lose him either. I would hold off on the copper. I like to
reserve that for situations that do not respond to more conservative
measures. I like to use hyposalinity. These 2 links should help you
with that http://www.petsforum.com/personal/trevor-jones/hyposalinity.html
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/martrthyposalfaqs.htm
> Today when I went to check on him he was in his cave when I came
up to the tank he swam out to the front of the glass and hovered there
like, look at me I'm covered in Ick help.! <Well responding to
your presence is certainly a good sign.> He still has the little
copepods on him that were eating off the dead skin which is almost
completely gone, too bad they won't eat the Ick too. Oh he is
currently at 1.023- 1.024 SG would you suggest lowering it and to what
to help with the Ick. <Yes definitely to 1.009, you will find the
instructions and necessary info in the articles listed above. Best of
luck with your Puffer. HTH, Leslie>
Update on dogface puffer hurt
by powerhead, thanks you all - 2/28/2006 GREAT NEWS!! My little
dogface puffer started eating again Saturday and he ate some more on
Sunday. <Yay!> I soaked his food in Zoe and garlic like I did
before the accident. His Ick looks like it is doing much better as well
since I lowered the SG and have been treating him with copper, I know
most people say not to treat them with copper, but I have spoke to
people who have had puffers with Ick and they treated them with
Cupramine and had no problems. <Really just have to be careful re
low dosage in most cases> His battle wounds from the power head are
healing very nicely, he is able to lay on the bottom of the tank and
curl up to sleep like he used to instead of having to float at the top
of his cave since his stomach hurt too much to lay on it. I think he is
going to have a scar from this whole nightmare, I might have to change
his name from Mr. puff to Scarface or scrappy since he is such a little
trooper I might name him trooper since he patrols the tank :) .
<Heee! Better check with Al Pacino...> He went 2 weeks and two
days without food. The MelaFix and PimaFix worked wonders along with
water changes. My deepest heartfelt thanks to everyone who responded to
this topic so that he could get help. You all are the best. One
question though, I bought mussels from Kroger that are in the shell, he
will eat the mussel if I take it out of the shell but he won't bite
at the shell to get it out. <Will in time> This was before he got
hurt. But I do feed him live snails and he will bite at them to wear
his teeth down. Thanks again for all your great help. Fish hugs for
everyone ><> ><> ><>
><> :) <Congratulations on your success, good care. Bob
Fenner>
Puffer with crypt ... maybe not 2/6/06 I have a
Dogface puffer and a yellow tang in a 110 gal tank. it has been
established for a year. I have had the puffer for 10 months and the
tang for 3 or 4 months. the puffer has an abundance of white nodules
(like salt) on his fins and body. I believe this to be
crypt. <Nodules? How large are these?> I have lowered the
salinity in the tank to 1.017 and raised the temp to 82. my
amm, and no2 were 0 and my no3 were 25 or 30. ph 8.0. I have
formalin 37% solution and rid-Ich. I do not have any copper or the
testing for it. I have a well cycled 10 gal qt tank. I also have a 29
gal display that is 18 months old with a damsel and a choc chip star. I
am thinking of how to properly treat the puffer and having trouble
since the 10 gal is too small for him to stay in for 4 weeks. I can
freshwater dip the tang ( who is showing no signs of crypt) and put her
in the 29 for the 4 weeks. if I put the puffer in a formalin freshwater
dip (10 drops per gal of water, right?) <One way> for 15 min.s
and put him in the 10 gal, would he be able to stay in there for 4
weeks without causing more stress? <Not likely> I
would have to do 30 % water changes every other day to keep up with the
ammonia. that would throw off the directions on the formalin
of 2 drops per gal on alternate days until no spots remain and then
repeat treatment in 10 days. the directions only call for one 25% water
change between treatments. I have read other FAQ's until
I'm cross-eyed. please any advice or even confirmation of my own
thoughts would be great. I work 60 hours a week and daily water changes
would be difficult if not impossible. thanks Beth <Am concerned here
with the crypt/Ich pretense... Are none of the other fishes showing
signs? I don't think this is crypt if not. Perhaps bolstering the
puffers immune system will help with the "nodules"... maybe
the addition of a purposeful cleaner. I would try microscopic
examination of skin smears here before subjecting these animals to
treatment. Bob Fenner>
Re: puffer with crypt
2/7/06 Thanks for getting back to me. Your site has saved a couple
of fish for me. Sorry, maybe I used the wrong word when I used the word
nodule. It is very small, like 1mm or less--like a grain of table salt.
<Oh... thought this was much larger> All the descriptions I saw
supported the saltwater Ich/crypt diagnosis. Unfortunately I
don't have access to a microscope. It took a couple days for a
response and I felt time was of the essence so I began a treatment
regiment. Btw, the tang had been seen scratching once or twice on
rocks, but nothing showed on her fins yet. <This family, Order does
scratch/flash quite a bit...> They were the only two fish in the
tank. I lost a Hawkfish from that tank 4 months back seemed to be
bacterial he had lots of redness around mouth and gills. I
freshwater dipped (15 min.s, no formalin) the tang and put her in the
29 gal, it has lots of algae for her to graze on and she is settling in
fine with her roommates. I also freshwater dipped the puffer for 15
min.s (careful not to let his mouth or gills out of the water) and put
him in a 20 gal Rubbermaid container (clear) with filter, heater, air
pump, and aged/oxygenated saltwater. It also had formalin in it
according to the bottle ( 2 drops per gal). All of the grains fell off
his body in the freshwater dip. <Does sound parasitic then> About
half of the grains on his fins are gone. He has been in
the "hospital tank" for 24 hours. Using a quick
dip the ph is 8.2, the no2 is 0, and the no3 is 0. This sg is 1.018 ( I
had lowered the main tank to 1.017) The formalin bottle says to treat
every other day until all signs of disease is gone and then do a 25%
water change. <Yes, or more> Then to re treat in 10
days to prevent reinfestation. <And leave the infested
system fallow as well...> The puffer is active and appears hungry. I
am going to give him a small piece of shrimp to keep his strength up.
If there is anything I am doing wrong or anything else I should do
please advise. The move from tank to dip to tank did not seem to stress
him much-- he didn't even puff a little and allowed himself to be
cradled in my hand. If you feel the puffer would be better in the main
tank without the formalin treatment I value your opinion. I
had planned on letting the 110 run fallow for 4 to 6 weeks
so I have no worries when I get another fish for that tank. Thanks
again for everything Beth <I would proceed as you have outlined, and
done. Bob Fenner>
Puffer
Parasite 10/4/05 I have a Dog faced Puffer in a 265 Gal tank
with a few other fish in a FOWLR system. I have had Cujo for well over
a year probably 2 yrs and purchased him at about 5 inches. He's now
in the vicinity of 9". Immediately after I quarantined him I
noticed he had a little growth (some type of crustacean looking
parasite) on his right fin. I treated it and it never fully went away
just got smaller. Well, he's been in the tank for quite some time
and very rarely does it ever appear to bother him but it does seem to
have grown and looks like it's part of his fin. What should I do?
<I'd try to remove this growth manually... with strong forceps,
someone else holding the fish in a net, with a wet towel around it>
I'll try to get some pics this weekend. I've heard from local
stores I should take him out of the tank and using tweezers pull it off
taking some fin with it. Not sure if that's accurate. Any info
would be most appreciated. <This is what I would do... and maybe
daub the site with a mercurical. Bob Fenner> Patrick
J. Hynes What would be considered a Mercurical? A
copper medication? <Mmm, like mom used to use on scrapes...
Mercurochrome, Merbromin, Merthiolate... Bob Fenner>
Golden puffer with Ich Hi MacL- <Hi Jason> Thank you
again for your help and your kind words about my concern. I view
keeping fish as a tremendous responsibility and feel very strongly that
it is important to do everything that I can to make their lives in
captivity happy and healthy. So my approach to the gold puffer was to
be as aggressive as possible in trying to save him. After my last email
but before I received your response, I could not get the water quality
under control in my 40 gallon QT so I elected to move him to my 46
gallon tank. <I can understand why you did that for sure.> I did
about a 25% water change to lower the copper levels even more and after
the change, they measured about 0.05. I acclimated the puffer for about
one hour to try to ease the shock of changing water and moved him over.
The water parameters in the new tank were: Salinity 1.023 Ammonia 0
mg/l pH 8.2 Nitrite 0 mg/l Nitrate 10 mg/l Temp 80.1 The puffer sat on
the bottom of the tank and continued to breath very
heavily. He also had very cloudy eyes and his gills looked
irritated (not quite red but pretty bright pink) and their were some
white spots that looked like Ich on his gills (this wasn't the case
the day before so I fear the Ich was back again unless white spots on
the gills could be something else). The next morning he
looked ok, swimming around a bit but still breathing very heavily. I
came home in the afternoon and found that I'd lost him. <I am so
sorry to hear that, once the Ich gets to his gills its a very difficult
battle.> I'm deeply saddened but want to thank you again for
your help and also feel confident that I went down guns a
blazing. <I really do think you did the very best you
could.> So now, a few follow up items. I know you should
never buy a sick fish and I violated that rule in this instance b/c I
have been looking for a great gold puffer for a long time and he was a
beautiful specimen, looked at me with puppy dog eyes and appeared to
only have a minor case of Ich. Since I have a QT I thought I could
nurse him back to health without jeopardizing my other
fish. I don't think he stood a chance if I didn't
get him b/c I think it is unlikely that someone else would have made
the investment of money and time required to try to save him. I think
you are correct that he was extremely sensitive to water quality but
that surprises me, I thought puffers were very hardy and disease
resistant? <Most are tough but believe me the trip they make from
where they are caught can be rough, rough, rough.> On the UV
sterilizers, I can't remember the exact flow rates but I optimized
for a parasite killing flow rates when I set them up. <So you set it
up perfectly.> The bulbs were replaced in January so they are
approximately three months old. I probably need to check how
clean they are now to make sure that they are still effective. <If
you didn't get the kind that has a way to clean the bulbs its good
to clean them every month or so I understand.> Do you still
recommend a diatom filter for my systems? If so, would you
keep it running all the time or only use part time or in emergencies?
<I use a diatom filter for emergencies and to keep my tank looking
crystal clear.> What follow-up, if any, do you recommend for my 46
gallon tank which was healthy but may now have some Ich (or other
problem) in it since the puffer was in the tank (albeit for less than
24 hours). <He probably was in there long enough to put the Ich
there but if the fish in there are healthy they might not fall prey to
the disease. Often fish seem to have an immunity to Ich when they are
content and happy.> Also, any follow up actions on my
QT? I can fallow it for as long as necessary but then I need
to cycle it all over again (ARGH). <I understand there is good stuff
being said about some biological products, Stability by Seachem and
marine max by Tropical Science I think. That might be solution to
that.> Lastly, do you recommend keeping some fish, and perhaps a big
fish to keep a big load, in the QT to keep it cycled all the time?
<That's how lots of people do it or they use a sponge filter
kept in larger tanks all the time running then move it over when the
quarantine tank needs to be up and running. Good luck and I hope you
find another one that's in good health.> Thanks- Jason
Dogface Puffer treatment Hi, I have a dogface puffer
(3.5") or so. I bought him 10 days ago. He was at the LFS for one
week prior to my purchasing him. He looked healthy and was eating well.
<Let me guess, this is a lead in to "So, I did not quarantine
him."> I placed him in a 200 FOWLR tank with a few other new
fish. I started the hypo-salinity on the tank and got it down over a
period of 4 days. <This would have not been my course of action with
a Puffer.> I did notice some spots show up on him during this time.
This morning I noticed he looked listless and had his mouth clamped
shut. On it or coming out of it was kinda a stringing type of ??? about
a inch long and covered in tiny air bubbles or white dots? I
couldn't see them clear enough. I got a FW dip ready, matching my
temperature and pH. Put a airstone in it and added some "quick
cure" (ingredients are -tri-chelated formula of 99% formaldehyde
and .75% malachite green). <I know the product. Again, that would
not have been my choice.> I kept him in it for 13 minutes. After
which I replaced him into the tank. Within a hour he was eating and
looking better. My question to you is, would you know what that was on
him? <No> and more importantly should I continue doing these
dips? <They make me nervous for a Puffer.> or leave him if he
continues to look and act well? <I would have quarantined him and
all new fish for one month.> If I do more dips, how often and in
what? Lynn <The best advise I can give you is to start here
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mardisease.htm and begin looking around.
-Steven Pro>
Dog Face Puffer II Hi thanks for getting back to me so
quickly, I have been and looked in his tank and have found some lead
weight in it (holding some plant down) and have taken it out. Hopefully
this is the cause of it. <This is a saltwater tank, right? Lead
weights are usually used for freshwater plants.> Thank for you help,
Donna <You are welcome. -Steven Pro>
Re: dog face puffer Yes this is a saltwater tank, but the man
in Maidenhead Aquatics (Shepperton) said they use them all the time for
there plants (in saltwater tanks) so I got some, this is where I got
him from. As I said this is my first saltwater puffer and I'm still
learning and am very grateful for your help. <No sweat. That is what
we are here for. I would still double check all your water quality
parameters to make sure nothing is off; pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate,
salinity, temperature, etc.> They also told me to feed him river
shrimp, beef heart, and blood worms but I have given him winkels and
mussels which I give to my Mbu puffer. Donna <I would stick to a
diet of marine origin foods. Clams, mussels, whole shrimp, and even
some formula foods. A good reference for the first time marine aquarist
is Mike Paletta's "The New Marine Aquarium." -Steven
Pro>
Puffer injury Thank you, but this is coming from his
insides... it is not on the flesh at all but something that comes from
in the mouth or the intestines?? <wow... my apologies. I'm
way off here. I misunderstood from your message and the picture was not
clear enough to reveal this for me. Wow... this is highly unusual and I
must say that my previous advice in retrospect is unlikely to help. I
thought the growth was topical. We will post this again to see if any
of the daily readers have had any experience like this they can share.
Please do read the dailies (FAQ page) this weekend (Sat/Sun) for
possible insight. I must say that I do feel helpless but indeed, a
wormy mass coming from inside the throat/mouth is highly unusual. In
the meantime, do try to take a clearer photograph if possible and we
will send it around. Best regards, Anthony> Do I put this swab
inside the mouth?? Thanks again, Lynn
Re: puffer with stringy growth and re-growth Lynn... in the
meantime, let me suggest for you to simply do a topical swab of the
area. They are no fun for you, but very direct and helpful for many
fishes. Net the puffer underwater in a large nylon (white not green)
net and wrap him up tight to limit his movement. You will need a second
person to help with this. Cover the eyes of the puffer with some of the
bunched net or another clean towel wet with aquarium water. Keep the
puffer submerged as much as possible, but don't freak out if you
need to pull him out of the water and he suck in some air. They most
always can purge it or can be burped later. We are working fast anyway.
Have some dipped cotton swabs ready and waiting aside with
mercurochrome/Merthiolate or iodine. I like Merthiolate best for this
application. Expose the effected portion of the fish from the net and
slip it slightly out of the water/ Pat the area dry and then stain it
with the medicated swab. be generous but avoid getting the meds near
the eyes or gills. It may be necessary to sink a small clean dish towel
under water to wrap the fish and hold it well. One person will
obviously be holding the fish and the other will do the
"surgical" work. Rest assured that this is very worthwhile
for your pains. Best regards, Anthony> Thanks for sending it to her.
But I'm afraid she still hasn't answered back and I think time
is running out. Lynn
Parasite? Hi guys... <<And hello to you.>>
Quick question. I have a porcupine puffer that I've had for about a
month. Water is fine, he eats well, and is very happy, but he has this
white thing in his eye. <<Egads...>> The eye isn't
cloudy, but has this solid white line that seems to be moving (not to
look at it, more like in a few hours it will have moved to a different
part in his eye). <<fascinating.>> At first I though he
scratched it, but when I saw that it looked like it was in a different
spot a little while later I knew it wasn't something that was an
injury. Please let me know what this might be and how I can cure
"Mohawk" my puffer. Thanks much guys...your site is great and
has helped me a lot in the past. Keep up the great work!! <<Well,
that is certainly interesting and disconcerting at the same time. I
think I would tackle this with a pH-adjusted freshwater dip. The change
in specific gravity will hopefully pop this odd creature. Your puffer
should be able to tolerate a good long bath, perhaps 10 to 15 minutes
should do it. Check out this URL for more information about dips:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/dips_baths.htm >> David
<<Cheers, J -- >>
White patches on puffers Greetings all, thanks for your time.
<cheers... and quite welcome> I'm an experienced aquarist,
but this has me stumped. Our panther puffer recently developed white
patches on his back, just to the rear and the right of the dorsal fin.
The largest patch has grown. It has a white color, the best description
I can give you is that it looks like someone put spackle on his back.
Its contoured to his skin, and appears hard. <interesting> A
brackish green spotted puffer was fine until this morning, he has now
developed the same patch, same spot, and even larger in proportion to
his size. Finally, our porcupine puffer has a small similar spot on his
back. Before bothering anyone with this, I attempted treatment in the
following manner. The fish were put in a plain bottom hospital tank
that has been running for months. I treated first with Maracyn, for a
full week, no improvement. I then tried Maracyn-Two, again, no results.
I then tried a marine penicillin, and it has not helped either.
<I'm very glad to hear of the applied QT tank, but the meds were
ill advised. Such patches on puffers are generally parasitic (although
the mucus response may look bacterial). Even if the pathogen is
bacterial, the drugs used were almost useless (and are for most
applications). Maracyn is Erythromycin and with Penicillin are
gram-positive drugs. Gram positive infection are VERY rare in marine
fishes and even if you had one, these two drugs are so weakly effective
from decades of pathogen resistance. Maracyn 2 is a synthetic
tetracycline and is also an outdated drug now resisted by many evolved
bacteria. It is at least a broad-spectrum med. When using
antibiotics... go for broad spectrum meds> Any ideas on what this
is? <parasite or protozoan> And if so, how to treat?
<formalin dips or long baths/treatments in QT. Merthiolate and/or
Iodine swabs directly on the patches if you feel very frisky> The
fish are all behaving normally, eating hungrily as always. NONE of the
other fish these guys share habitat with (they're in 2 separate
tanks normally) have developed this condition, including tangs, which
seem to catch everything. <tough fish... they will likely be fine.
Do consider Aquarium Products brand and dose of Formalin. Be careful of
any brand that mixes an organic dye with the Formalin! Puffer are
sensitive to dyes> I greatly appreciate your time. Thanks, Dave
Schoen Long Beach, NY <BTW Dave... I'll be giving a presentation
to the LA county marine society in October... perhaps you'd care to
visit their club (unless you are already a member). MASLAC. Best
regards, Anthony>
Ich Relapse/Puffer Emergency Hi, <cheers> A couple
weeks ago you asked me to treat my porcupine puffer with a freshwater
dip to treat parasites which I did. The treatments seemed to help a
lot, but he got a new case a parasites a couple days ago. <alas...
relapses are common with such Ich prone fishes as puffers tangs and
angels> This time when I treated him, he blew up pretty big and it
totally tore up his belly. He now has two flaps of skin hanging from
him. Is there anything I can do to save my poor fish. Please help me
ASAP <Yikes... just from a dip? I don't see how this was
possible? There must have been something that we missed. At any rate,
the situation sounds dire. Keep the fish isolated in QT and use only a
mild antibiotic and water changes for the next week. We should
re-evaluate after 5 days assuming the fish is still living. I'm
sorry... I cannot explain the rupture... they simply are not
"designed" to do that. It honestly doesn't sound good.
However, rest assured that a normal freshwater dip had absolutely
nothing to do with it. This fish has unseen problems> Thanks! Frank
<kindly, Anthony>
Re: Puffer Emergency Anthony, <greetings> Thanks for
your quick reply. I am so sad because I feel like I'm to
blame. <I am quite sure you couldn't have done this. It is
a bizarre symptom of something else very wrong and even incurable. You
could have left the fish in freshwater for a day and still not have
"blown him up" Pufferfish simply do not work that way so to
speak. No fault of yours, my friend> Do you think that it can heal?
(I don't see how it can). <I agree that euthanasia may be
an issue (freezer in a bag of aquarium water... very gentle> Do you
think he is suffering? <cannot say> I would rather just put
him out of his misery if he is and don't have much of a chance of
surviving. I can't believe this happened. My son is going to be
devastated. <you would know best by looking at the fish. Are you
quite sure the air bladder ruptured? If so... I suspect death may be
imminent> have you every seen this before? <not in 10 years>
If you have any extreme professional advice, please let me know. Frank
<as per above... I am sorry my friend. Anthony>
Re: Puffer Emergency Anthony, Just to clarify, the air
bladder is definitely intact; it's the skin that surrounded it that
ruptured. (The skin with the spines is broken in two pieces one
attached to the front, the other to the back. Does this make my
situation less dire? <yes... less dire, no less bizarre> The fish
is basically just floating around, the same way as he was before this
happened, but a little unresponsive. (Doesn't respond to my finger
being in the water) Thanks! Frank <we might observe another day or
two... but without a response to presence or feeding and given the
nature of the injury... it is dreadful and not terribly hopeful.
I'm sorry, my friend>
Quick ich question Hi Bob, the hairstylist again. <Do need
to get up and see you... my "do" needs a re-do... badly!>
I have a quick question regarding my quarantine tank. I have a few fish
in there, 20g tank and slowly since my new tank was about to be ready a
few weeks ago prepared their move, then ich hit them as I had to move
the tank out of my office. So I treated them with copper (Cupramine)
for a week, <Oh, oh... should've run it for two weeks...
I'm almost afraid to read below> and they looked great so I
turned everything back on and put carbon back in the filter, but I know
it was a bit soon, so it came back. I added copper again this time for
2 weeks, in the meanwhile I took some fish out and transferred them,
after about 11 and 13 days and they are loving the new big tank. today
was the 15th day off copper use and I wanted to transfer my last 2
puffers (dogface and stellate) but when I came home from work they both
had a few specks of ich again. I am running out of ideas here, I
don't want to keep them in copper too long either. <Best not to,
of course> I lowered the spg a bit(1.015) and raised the temp (84F).
0.3 ppm copper, buffered the water and did everything I read on this
web site. I want to transfer my puffies because it is harder to keep up
water quality in that little tank especially with the use of copper. By
the way, they take more freshwater dips then
me................................. <Ha! I do agree with the
direction you hint at here... I would pH-adjusted freshwater dip/bathe
and move these puffers to their new home. Bob Fenner> thank you
again SASCHA
Re: quick ich question > thanks for your response, are you
saying to move them now or still wait a bit until the white spots are
gone . <Now... these "white spots" may never be gone...
Worth the risk in my estimation to dip, move these fishes now> they
eat like pigs and are real fun, not sick at all, I just don't want
to infest the new tank because of the 150# of live rock in there,
otherwise they'd be in there already. <More a matter of
"balance" than absolute infestation yes/no... Likely there
are residual spores in the new system now... Please read:
http://wetwebmedia.com/tanktroubleshting.htm Bob Fenner> take care
Sascha
Sick as a Dog(face puffer) Hi Bob! I've sent two emails
then noticed to try this address if I haven't gotten a
response. <you've made it through! Anthony Calfo in your
service> I hope you can help me. I have an Arothron Meleagris Golden
puffer that I believe has come down with marine velvet due to a recent
power outage. <yes... temperature drops commonly flare such
parasitic infection> I have a 55 gallon live rock and sand tank with
two cleaner shrimp plus the puffer. <wow. the cleaner shrimp
really are risky with most any puffer. May work for months.. but not
years. Fish behave differently in strange captive environments. Such
shrimp would never wag their tails in a puffers face 24hrs daily in the
wild. Confines and time will tell. I'd recommend sparing the shrimp
to another tank. Much better tankmates to be had> this is my only
fish. After the power outage I changed my water immediately.
<very wise!> My puffer was stressed. Now I have a battery backup.
Over the course of a few days my puffer acted peculiarly. He floated in
front of my power head with his fins clamped to his sides. The next day
he was covered in a cottony film including his eyes. Over a period of
three days I lowered the specific gravity to 1.016 and raised the temp
to 82-84. He didn't appear to get better so I proceeded to
freshwater dip him for two-three minutes. <all good moves
except the dip was not long enough. FW dips less than 3 minutes have
been demonstrated to be useless on even the weakest parasites (Crypt)
and Velvet is so deep in the flesh (Oodinium). 5 minutes minimum...
7-15 minutes as the fish allows would be better. Calm in dip bucket or
laying down on the bottom would be fine... ride it out. Spitting water
at the surface is undue stress and remove anytime after 5 minutes if
so> I've done this three times. The cotton has diminished but he
still has a thin layer from his neck up and on his eyes and fins. My
question is how often do I dip him and how long do I leave my tank at
its current conditions? <yes...as above to be effective and 5
times in 7 days would be nice. Make sure water is aerated, temperature
and pH adjusted properly> My puffer was eating until three days ago.
He seems uninterested now or maybe cannot see it. <ahh... no
worries. Typical for sick puffers. They can go weeks. Offer live ghost
shrimp or small live crayfish in a week if necessary> Could he have
a secondary infection and will the dipping help without medication or
antibiotics? <yes... the dipping will help tremendously>
His skin appears to be a little reddened and drawn in a few areas and I
would hate to irritate it further. He mostly lays on the bottom of the
tank and periodically will squint his eyes tightly shut as if in pain.
This is my prize fish and I hate to see him like this. Is there
anything else I can do? >yep... this fish needs to be in a
bare bottomed QT as well with a broad spectrum antibiotic as well. 4
weeks while the display runs fallow. Else the fish keeps getting
reinfested by parasites festering in the gravel/sand> He has been
like this for a week now. Bob I have called a lot of pet stores and
aquarium suppliers to ask questions since I cant get a hold of you and
you wouldn't believe the things they tell me to do. <if
they suggested copper or an organic dye (green/blue meds) fire them>
I will wait to hear from you since you have helped me tremendously in
the past. And I love your website. I've been on it every night
since my puffers been sick. It may have saved his life so far, but I
still need to know I cant do anything else. Help Help! Thank you <I
have faith in this fishes hardiness and your empathetic care. Do
follow-up with a success story in a couple of weeks! Kindly
Anthony>
Re: sick puffer I believe my tank is infested because my
clown trigger died from parasites and so did my tang both within two
months, my puffer has also had them before. <I still cannot
help you much my friend without a description of the symptoms to verify
the nature of the parasite infection> I don't know if he is not
eating now because he has parasites I'm just figuring. if treated
him with Maracyn 2 (for internal bacterial infections). <Maracyn is
a synthetic tetracycline and marginally useful (an outdated med) for
bacterial infections and really not much help with parasites> he
hasn't eaten in 17 days. any recommendations? <I'm honestly
thinking that another factor is at work here... too high or too low
salinity, stray pH or other aspect of water chemistry, etc> also
should I get a new fish? <if you have a separate quarantine tank you
could buy a new fish. I of course would not recommend adding any fish
to a tank that is suspected of being "infected"> can I put
the new fish new water or do I have to use my display tank water for
the QT? <a little of both would be a good idea. Raw seawater is a
bit rough at first> thanks BRYAN <best regards, Anthony>
|
|