FAQs about Trachyphylliid Coral Nutritional Disease
FAQs on Open Brain Disease:
Trachyphylliid Disease 1,
Trachyphyllia Disease 2,
Trachyphyllia Disease 3,
Trachyphyllia Disease 4,
Trachyphyllia Disease 5,
FAQs on Open Brain Disease by Category:
Diagnosing, Environmental (Pollution/Poisoning, Lighting...),
Social (Allelopathy),
Trauma,
Pathogenic (Infectious, Parasitic, Viral)
Predatory/Pest,
Treatments
Related Articles: Coral Pests and Disease; pests, predators,
diseases and conditions by Sara Mavinkurve, Trachyphylliid Corals, Trachyphyllia Reproduction Report,
FAQs on Stony Coral Disease by Category: Diagnosing:
Environmental (Pollution/Poisoning, Lighting...),
Nutritional, Social (Allelopathy),
Trauma,
Pathogenic (Infectious, Parasitic, Viral)
Predatory/Pest,
Treatments
FAQs on Stony Coral Disease by Type: Brown Jelly Disease, RTN,
|
Need measurable NO3, HPO4... not zero... AND regular
small/meaty feedings, washes... 2, 3 X/wk.
|
Trachyphyllia color fading
12/21/13
Seasons Greetings to everyone!
<And you Tim>
I purchased a couple of healthy open brains about 3 months ago
and they seem to be losing color.
<I see this in your pix; and flesh as well. The "big three" causes of
such are a lack of (chemical) food/s, poisoning from somewhere, and
allelopathy>
I have them in an established 90G mixed reef tank with ample random
flow, under a Rapid LED DIY kit, 25G sump (with macro and LR) and a
Skimmer. I dose Kalk periodically (via my T/O) and run a BRS GFO reactor
<Mmm, a nod toward nutrient deficiency>
all controlled and monitored by an Apex controller. Parameters have been
very stable � Temp 79, pH 8.25, ALK
8-9, Ca 400-440, SG 1.026, N�s 0,
<... stop. All chemo/photosynthetic life need Nitrogen... measurable NO3
here>
PO4 0.03 (Hanna). Stock includes 2 (purple and green) LTA�s (not
doing well lately - maybe from the mistakenly shipped Condy in there for
a couple weeks!),
<And a vote for allelopathy>
several Acans, 2 Montis, a Turbinaria, various softies (Zoas, Palys,
mushrooms, Ricordeas), feather duster, coco worm, some meteor shower
Cyphastrea, sun coral, an Arrow Crab (friendly so far), a few cleaner
shrimp, various snails, a couple Favia, a couple sea stars, and a
cauliflower colt coral). I believe I have everyone placed correctly with
the LPS on the sand bed, and the SPS up higher. Softies are in various
locations. I had a new 3� Crocea clam placed fairly high for 4 months
and looked beautiful up until it closed up one day and died 2 days
later, never reopening. The LTA�s are pretty contracted and roaming
quite a bit
<Dangerous>
mostly not attaching to anything. They are still sticky so I don't know if
they are recovering from some allelopathy with the Condy or a yet
to be determined issue. I've been doing 10G water changes weekly using
RODI and Instant Ocean Reef Crystals. I started dosing iodine
<-Ide, ate actually>
a few days ago and just got a BRS Carbon reactor in. I vary the feedings
(2-3 times per week) between mussel, squid, scallops, krill and shrimp
for the bigger mouths (cut to ¼�) along with Reef Chili, Coral Frenzy
and Oyster Feast for the smaller creatures. Everything else in the tank
seems to be doing really well.
As for the brains, I am having some trouble determining if my lighting
is the issue or it is something else.
<Something/s else>
From what I have read, it seems like the fading could be caused by too
much or too little light.
<Nah>
I believe both situations can cause the loss of the Zooxanthellae which
could result in what I am seeing. I have the lights on about 12 hours a
day (ramping up and down over 90 minutes). Attached are some pictures
from Oct and Dec for your reference. As for their feeding behavior, I
used to see their sweepers come out at feeding time and they would
typically expand after a meal. Now the sweepers don't seem to come out
and lately the red one always seems to be expanded. They are still
eating but I have to place it right on their mouths and cover them. Any
ideas at what else I should be looking at? Thanks for all you do!
Carmela and Tim
<Where to send you to read on WWM... Let's try having you just use the
search tool re "Nitrate and Stony Corals", "Cnidarian Allelopathy" (or
sub species you're concerned re instead of the phyletic name...
Categorically: I'd pull the ferric oxide, increase the feeding till you
have some Nitrate/s showing... and maybe put activated carbon in place
of the carbon feeder media, re-home/move those Actinarians... Bob
Fenner>
|
|
Re: Trachyphyllia color fading
12/22/13
I assumed that with a reading of .03 for PO4, I was good shape. Why
should I be stopping the GFO?
<See WWM re; am a tab busy to reiterate>
I will increase my feeding to every other day until I see some measureable
NO3. Right now I have an API test kit
<Junk... I'd invest in better for what you have invested here. Again see
WWM re>
for NO3 with 0, 5, 10, 20,40, ppm graduations. What range should I keep
the NO3 within? Could you clarify "maybe put activated carbon in place
of the carbon feeder media"?
<... see... re... you want terpene-removing capacity and don't likely
need more carbon...>
I was planning on running activated carbon in the new media reactor.
<Ah, good. B>
Thanks again,
Carmela and Tim
|
open brain - receding
12/16/11
Hiya WWM Crew,
<Hi Mitch>
First of all, love the site and have found a ton of great info
that's help me get further along in the hobby, really appreciate
it.
<Great!>
That having been said, a little background: I have a 72 gallon bow
front with overflow, skimmer, T5HO lighting, and 3 Koralia 600gph
powerheads.
Good amount of Liverock, and am just now (After about 2 years of
running) starting to go from FOWLR to reef. So far I have a
Palythoa and just added about 2 weeks ago an open brain (one of the
deeper water ones with the red outer lip and green inner bit).
<Ok. Trachyphyllia?>
So when I got the brain I gave it about a week, waited until my night
lamps had been on for an hour or two, and then turned off the
powerheads - and then used tongs to drop some thawed Mysis on the
"mouth" area. Tentacles started showing up and pushing
food into the mouth (super cool to watch!).
Now, having read on your site I know that these bad boys need to be fed
at least a couple of times a week...
<Yes, can be done during the day also>
and my wife mentioned that it had been walnut sized all day today...so
tonight I tried again (last feeding was around 5 days ago). Same
process, night lamps, power heads off, dropped some Mysis. Now
the mouths opened WIIIIIIIDE open (like I could see INSIDE the mouth),
however no feeder tentacles appeared. I tried to get a few bits
of Mysis into the mouth - but not sure how successful I was.
<This is not likely a feeding problem>
So I pulled out the test kit so see if maybe I was stressing the thing
out....trites, trates, and phates are all at zero,
<You should have a trace of NO3 & PO4 present, nutrients
essential for life>
which would have been my first thought. Also tested calcium - and
it is indeed quite low (240 range).
<Far too low - should be around 400ppm>
Could that be causing the lack of tentacle as well as the shrivel
effect?
<Yes - the coral is Scleractinian (has a skeleton) so needs to
calcify in order to survive. Without enough calcium in the water it
cannot do this.
You also need to test for Magnesium and carbonates (alkalinity, dKH.
Read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm>
I've read that people on WWM have mentioned seeing the
"skeleton" of the coral: I'm not entirely sure what that
is, as opposed to the rock on which the coral is growing (again,
I'm new to this, so be gentle)...so I can't tell if I'm
seeing the "skeleton" or if it's just pulled back and
hanging out.
<Mmm, the 'rock' on which it is growing is it's
skeleton, assuming that what you have is an 'open brain' coral
and not something else. either way, the calcium needs to be adjusted,
and the Mg & dKH tested for and also adjusted if necessary http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2002/11/chemistry>
Plan for right now is to do around a 12 gallon water change tomorrow,
and also start on a nice slow Kalk drip to help maintain the calcium
levels.
Think that's the right move?
<No. I think you need to understand the chemistry more before
messing around with Kalk drips, one of the most dangerous things you
can do to your tank, especially automated. After reading &
understanding you could add a little Kalk, manually only, with testing,
and not on a drip>
Thanks, in advance, for your help!
<No problem>
- Mitch
<Simon>
Re: open brain - receding 12/16/11
Simon - thanks for the quick response!
<No problem Mitch>
I'm going to pick up some more exact test kits this afternoon -
I'm using the reefmaster kit right now, and unfortunately it
won't detect "Trace" amounts (the smallest amount of
nitrate it will show is 5 PPM etc).
<Ok>
As far as perking up the brain and calcium go, how much of the Kalk
would you recommend starting with? I've seen a lot of
different suggestions in amounts, but all were for a "drip"
setup, so not entirely sure what the process would be for adding
manually?
<Are there no instructions? You can make a slurry with some RO
water, add a little at a time, test, add some more if necessary...
until you get used to how much does what>
(as a side note, in a fit of insomnia, I woke around 3 this morning and
took a quick look into the tank with a flashlight - brain is still in
that "shrunken" state, but the tentacles were indeed visible
again)
<Good>
As a sidebar, I have a delivery of 3 small Zoanthid frags coming today
(15 - 21 polyps total) - unfortunately it was an internet order and
it's too late to stop it from coming. Think they'll be
safe in the tank?
<Should be fine>
My Palythoa (sp) is doing fantastically well and is actually spreading
like wildfire right now - from what I understand those are a relative
of Zoas, so I'm hoping they'd be okay too?
<Are Zoanthids also>
I have a small QT on the side but it's not really equipped for
sustaining corals. My plain was to acclimate, dip, and then
introduce into the DT.
<I am a fan of quarantining all livestock, everything wet
myself>
- Mitch
<Simon>
Re: open brain - receding 12/17/11
Simon - postlude today.
<Fire away!>
Open brain is fully open and happy looking. No skeleton showing
etc. Took a water sample to the LFS - calcium is at 400.
<Great!>
Looks like my test kit is old and ineffective. Treated myself to
a new one while I was there.
<An essential purchase>
Here's what I suspect, you tell me what you think: I saw coral
withered and decided that it must have been hungry and started dropping
Mysis over it...in doing so, I think I annoyed it causing it to open
its mouth real wide, not because it wanted to eat, but because it
wanted me to go the heck away.
<Hmmm, not sure this coral has the capacity to 'think'
;)>
So, in short, I'm going to give the brain a break and leave it
alone until I can confirm seeing those feeder tentacles reaching
out.
<I would just aim some food in it's direction when you feed your
fishes were it mine, daily.>
Its amazing the panic a bad test kit can cause!!!
<Yes!>
- Mitch
<All's well that ends well, Simon>
Deflated Trachy 2/17/08
Gents
I'm writing to you from Guernsey, a small Island in the British
channel! I have a question that so far, despite trying many different
people, have not got an answer. I have a Trachyphyllia Geoffroyi that
has been deflated for about 3 weeks. I've had him for about 8
months and has always looked amazing. I recently upgraded my skimmer to
a Deltec apf600 on a 325 Ltr
(90 US Gallon?).
<About 86>
I changed my carbon and phosphate remover but nothing different to my
normal routine. My coral has since deflated. The flesh was very tight
over the skeleton and I thought all was lost. I was really gutted as
he's my favourite coral. I didn't remove the coral but left it
for a few days.
One night I noted he looked a bit inflated but the next day he was the
same. I have since put him in a Pyrex bowl on the bottom of the tank so
that I can get to him easily. I feed him in the bowl and he feeds well
but still no inflation. The flesh is no longer tight over the skeleton
but definitely not inflated. Any ideas what the problem is?
<Mmm, first guess would be a nutrient shortage from your new, more
efficient skimmer.... Do you have measurable phosphate?>
My conditions are:
S.G - 1.025
pH - 8.2
KH - 8
Ca- 420
Nitrite - 0
Nitrate - 15
I'm afraid that's all I test.
I do 25 Ltr water changes every 2 weeks with good quality reef salt.
Use a Ca reactor, Carbon, Phosphate remover,
<This too is too-likely a culprit... I would pull this media for
now. Some soluble HPO4 is absolutely essential to all life...>
Live rock, DSB, skimmer. All other fish / corals are in good health and
no fish appear to be irritating the coral.
Many thanks for any help.
Cheers
Jeff
<And a bit of iodine/ide supplement, and let's see how this Open
Brain does in a week or so, eh? Bob Fenner>
Re: Deflated Trachy, HPO4 2/25/09
Hi Bob, or whoever this may be going to.
Many thanks for responding to me. I've tried what you suggested and
no response as of yet. I don't have any measurable phosphate. I
removed the phosphate remover and added some Red Sea Iodine at the
stated dosage. I've
left the skimmer running. Do you think it might be worth adding a
Polyfilter? to remove something that may be irritating it. Maybe a
change in salinity? I'm running out of ideas and any further help
would be much appreciated.
Cheers
<Mmm, no to the chemical filtrant... or changing SPG... Odd as it
may sound, I'd look to adding a supplement that included soluble
phosphate...
Life needs it... BobF>
Open Brain not doing well! Pls Help. Poisoning,
starving, reading 12/31/09 Hello Crew,
<Justin> I got a open brain that has not expanded or shown
it's feeding tentacles in over a week. <Mmmm> This all
started when I added my normal C-balance 2 part solution to my
90g Tank. <How added? I hope trust as dissolved via new water
added as during a water change> As soon as I added the KH
part, it immediately closed up and been that way since.
<Please see WWM re supplement use... start here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm> It's mouth has
receded a little bit and has yet to allow itself to feed.
It's not getting bad, nor is it getting better. I normally
feed once a week, <... and Trachyphyllia re Feeding:
http://wetwebmedia.com/trachyfdgfaqs.htm
need to be fed more
often than this...> either freeze dried krill or a piece of
frozen shrimp. <...> My water conditions are: 0-ammonia,
0-Nitrate, <An essential nutrient...> 0-Nitrite, PH 8.3,
Calcium 420ppm, KH 176-196.9ppm range, Temp 80-81*F, Salinity
.025. The tank is a 90g with 2x 250MH 14000k, and 2 VHO actinics.
I had him placed in the sand bed, but recently moved him under my
frag rack. Assuming the reduced light may help him out. On
Saturday Night I gave him a Reef Dip and a strange Black worm and
Bristle worm came off of him. Also, I saw one of my Peppermint
Shrimps picking at his mouth the other night, so looks like I
will have to cover him at night. <Maybe...> What else can I
do to get him back to his normal state? <Better water quality,
feeding likely> I've tried multiple forums with no
resolution! Any advice or help in this matter to cure my brain is
greatly appreciate. He's my favorite piece!!!!!! Pls look at
attached pics! Thanks in advance !!! -Justin <Please read the
above citation areas and the linked files above. Bob
Fenner>
|
|
Re: Open Brain not doing well! Pls
Help/Thanks!! 12/31/08 Hello Crew, >
<Justin> Hey Bob, Thanks for responding back so quickly!!!!
<<Welcome>> > I got a open brain that has not
expanded or shown it's feeding tentacles in over a week.
><Mmmm>I know! Too Strange, but he seems to be getting
better IMO! <<Ah, good>> > This all started when I
added my normal C-balance 2 part solution to my 90g Tank. >
<How added? I hope trust as dissolved via new water added as
during a water change>No! I added to water stream from my
return pump. Did not know I could add during water change. I use
Reef Crystals, so did not want to overdue the Calcium and KH.
<<Best to pre-mix the water, store for days, a week... and
add supplements then... or blend slowly, well in a
sump...>> > As soon as I added the KH part, it
immediately closed up and been that way since. > <Please
see WWM re supplement use... start here: >
http://wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm> Thanks for the info!
<<Welcome>> > It's mouth has receded a little
bit and has yet to allow itself to feed. > It's not
getting bad, nor is it getting better. I normally feed once a
week, > <... and Trachyphyllia re Feeding: >
http://wetwebmedia.com/trachyfdgfaqs.htm > need to be fed more
often than this...>Ok! Is freeze dried shrimp good or
bad? <<Read on!>> either freeze dried krill or a
piece of frozen shrimp. > <...> > My water conditions
are: 0-ammonia, 0-Nitrate, > <An essential nutrient...>
Good! I try to keep the water clean! <<Still, some nitrate
presence is necessary>> > 0-Nitrite, PH 8.3, Calcium
420ppm, KH 176-196.9ppm range, Temp 80-81*F, Salinity .025. The
tank is a 90g with 2x 250MH 14000k, and 2 VHO actinics. > I
had him placed in the sand bed, but recently moved him under my
frag rack. Assuming the reduced light may help him out. On
Saturday Night I gave him a Reef Dip and a strange Black
worm and Bristle worm came off of him. > Also, I saw one of my
Peppermint Shrimps picking at his mouth the other night, so looks
like I will have to cover him at night. > <Maybe...> The
cover has worked out so far. Got multiple holes in it to allow
flow. <<Good>> > What else can I do to get him
back to his normal state? > <Better water quality, feeding
likely>Based upon the water parameters I noted, is there
anything that is off? Will feed more often! <<Need some
NO3... I would remove part or give up on whatever chemical
filtrant use you have going...>> > I've tried
multiple forums with no resolution! Any advice or help in this
matter to cure my brain is greatly appreciate. He's my
favorite piece!!!!!! > Pls look at attached pics! > Thanks
in advance !!! > -Justin > <Please read the above
citation areas and the linked files above. Bob Fenner> Thanks
for the help Bob. Happy New Year!! Wish my Brain luck!! :)
<<Mine too! D'oh!!! BobF>>
Re: Open Brain not doing well! Pls
Help/Thanks!! 1/4/09 Hey Bob and Crew, <Hello
again Justin> The Trachy is making an awesome recovery.
<Ah, good!> Even though his mouth is recovering, he can
still eat from what I can see. How often shall I feed him to
speed up his recovery??? <See WWM... two, three times per
week> And Peppermint shrimp are they really safe with these
types of "fleshy" corals? <Usually, yes> I ask
cause I've seen them steal and eat from the mouth of this
Trachy and I suspect them in aiding into his decline the past
couple of weeks. Shall I pull them out of the tank??? <Or
screen him out for now... like with an all plastic colander or
"berry basket" turned over the specimen> Thanks for
all the help! Justin L. <Welcome. Bob Fenner>
|
Bloated Open Brain (Trachyphyllia) 6/25/08 Hi WWM Crew,
<Hello Cindy!> I am very much hoping that you can alleviate my
worries about our open brain. <I hope so too!> We've had
'him' for about 4 weeks now and until recently it appeared as
though everything was going well. Until the past few days his tentacles
would come out every evening - dinner time for everyone else as he was
curious. Twice a week we feed him a small morsel of clam, muscle,
shrimp or octopus; which he accepts gladly. <Great! Glad to see you
must have researched husbandry a little. Too many of these starve to
death in aquariums.> There are never any leftovers and he hasn't
spewed anything back into the tank. The rest of the week he will get
left overs that may drift to the bottom once the fish have had their
fill. As far as I can tell he's well fed. Recently we have upgraded
our lighting and we are trying to acclimate everyone slowly to the
better lighting. Since we've changed the lighting though the open
brain coral has bloated and his tentacles are extended all the time.
Based on all the research I've done I was sure that his tentacles
were a sure sign of hunger and the bloating was generally reserved for
the day after meals; but for the past three days they are out almost
24/7 and his bloating is incredible; he expands by about 50%. He still
expands/retracts but the bloating is so much more than we've seen
in the past that I'm worried about the behaviour. Is he incredibly
hungry or just loving the new light? Do I step up the
feeding/reduce/change it?? <This is a stress response, most likely.
Expansion means more surface area, and therefore more passive
cooling/waste diffusion. Even if he isn't cooking, full of waste,
or wanting more light a coral only has so many responses to stress. If
something seems wrong and all you can do is puff up, you're going
to puff up- know what I mean?> Tank details: 6 months old, 45 gal
-corner tank, 40lbs live rock, 2" live crushed coral covered by
1" fine live sand. 2 percula clowns, 1 cleaner shrimp, one
engineer goby, 1 hammer coral, 1 bubble coral, 1 open brain :-), green
Zoanthid polyps, 1 doz. assorted snails, 3 red hermits, various blue
legged crabs, small refugium with 4 mangroves, Tunze 50 gal protein
skimmer, Fluval filter, 78 degrees, 8.2 ph, 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, 20
nitrate??, 380 calcium. The calcium levels is slowly being increased
(over the course of 2 weeks) to 400. The nitrates are frustrating, they
are always there, we've tested the change water and the nitrates
are 0, but after 1 day they jump to 10, am hoping the new lighting will
increase the algae and that will help to take care of the nitrates.
<Well, to run the colloquialism through the nitrogen
cycle..."nitrate happens". It can be tough to control in
smaller tanks...but it sounds like you know how to stay on top of
it.> Change water 10% twice weekly. Old lighting: 2 x 18" 15w
fluorescent bulbs 1 x 10,000k (ocean sun), 1 x 20,000 (coral sun) - new
lighting: 1 250w 14,000k metal halide. <VERY good lighting! Keep an
eye on that 14k, I've heard sometimes they don't hold their
spectrum as long as the 10k or 20k flavor.> Thank you very much for
the hours upon hours of reading material that you have provided for us!
<You are very welcome! Thank you for reading them! I think your
brain should return to normal as he adjusts to the new lighting. If he
begins to bleach or show other signs of serious stress consider slower
acclimation to the light- and feel free to write in if problems
arise.> Cindy <Benjamin>
Receding Open Brain'¦ Feed Me Seymour --
09/13/07 Hey guys, Scott here. <Hi Scott, Mich here.> I
have two open brains <I wish I had two brains, the one I'm
using right now is a little tired.> in my 38-gallon tank. They
both sit on the bottom in about 15 inches of water. Lighting is
2x96-watt, including actinic. Between my hang-on-back filter and
my water pump, I turn over my water about 15 times an hour.
<In theory.> The brains are sitting about 10" apart.
One is thriving and has grown noticeably since I got it, the
other is receding. The one that is doing well is clearly a Trach.
I'm not clear on what the other one is -- it is flatter,
deeply lobed but the lobes do not touch, and when the flesh
retracts it has spikes coming out of it. It is a yellow/cream
color in the middle, and dark maroon around the edge. <Hard to
tell without a pic.> I purchased these two about a month and a
half apart. <OK.> Anyway, my LFS advised me they didn't
need anything special in the way of diet, just some DT's,
which I use every week. <I would offer meaty fresh
seafood's, Mysis shrimp here.> They both did well for a
while, but about a month ago I noticed that the one had its flesh
receding from the outer edge of the skeleton. LFS had no
particular advice, said it should come back, and to try moving it
out of the water flow a bit, which I did. No luck. <Manual
feedings may help.> So I started researching your site on what
to do, and found that I should probably be feeding it. <Yes.
Sounds like this brain would particularly benefit.> For the
past couple of weeks, I have been trying to feed it at night.
Some nights I use a soda bottle with the bottom cut out, and a
turkey baster to place some Mysis on top of the brain -- this
helps to keep the shrimp and crabs off it. <Yes.> Other
nights when I am feeling less ambitious, I throw some rotifers in
the tank about a half hour after the lights go out. The coral
still continues to recede, and is probably almost half gone now.
Is there anything I can do, <Yes. You will likely have to
increase the frequency and perhaps the quantity of your feedings.
These corals can take in surprisingly large pieces, but I would
recommend anything too large. I would soak any foods provided in
Selcon, a vitamin/HUFA supplement, and suggest diced shrimp,
scallops and the likes be offered.> or has this particular
specimen reached the end of its road? <No! Certainly not. With
aggressive feeding you very well may be able to bring this
specimen back. Good luck and happy meals! Mich>
Re: Receding Open Brain'¦ Feed Me Seymour --
09/19/07 <Hi Scott, Mich with you again.> Over the past
two nights I have offered frozen Mysis and fresh-diced scallops,
both soaked in Vita-Chem, <Glad to read you are using a
vitamin supplement. In the future you may want to consider Selcon
as it contains highly unsaturated fatty acids, that I believe
Vita-Chem is missing.> but it does not seem to be eating much.
I placed the food directly on it with the turkey baster and left
it covered with the soda bottle all night. Would it stress the
coral too much to take it out and put it in a dishpan filled with
aquarium water to feed it, so I can do a better job of placing
the food near its mouths? <Not at all. I think this is a good
idea. You can read how someone else did something similar here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/dendroreprofaqs.htme: The first couple
on this page start the story, but what you really want to read is
titled: Re: Feeding of Tubastrea.. Follow up to Baby Tubastrea
Timeline 8/7/07> At the rate it is receding, I may only have a
couple of weeks left. <I like your idea. It sounds like it is
time to be quite aggressive with your feedings, perhaps offering
multiple times per day. I wish you success here. Mich>
Re: Receding open brain 9/23/07 Hi Mich, <Hi
Scott!> Thanks for the Tubastrea link <Welcome!> (wow,
that's a pretty elaborate system). <Yep! Sure is. Now
that's commitment!> I'm doing something just slightly
less sophisticated. I take the brain out and put in a Cool Whip
container full of aquarium water, <Simple works!> and place
diced scallops on top of each mouth with a pair of tweezers.
I've had some initial success -- first two nights, two mouths
ate; last night none ate, but tonight three have eaten.
<Good!> I haven't caught it regurgitating, <Well it
will. The mouth functions as both intake and output! Aren't
you glad your mouth doesn't? Heehee!> so I hope I'm
dicing the stuff small enough. <tiny balls of finely minced
food is best.> I have been leaving the coral in the Cool Whip
container for 1-1/2 to 2 hours while trying to feed.
<Good.> My new question is, how long can I comfortably
leave it outside the aquarium to see if more mouths will feed,
assuming that room temperature is in the 70's? <I'd
try to keep the temperature as close to the tank temp as
possible. Perhaps there is a way to support the containers and
have them more or less floating inside the tank so the water temp
remains consistent. If you go this route you will likely have the
most success with feeding if the food is offered after the lights
are out.> Also, I have been reading the site tonight about
laminar water flow, which is exactly what I have. Do you think
this might have contributed to my problem at all? <If it is a
constant direct flow, it could be a problem.> I wish I had a
picture of the brain, but it is probably not healthy enough for
you to identify anymore. <Actually, sometime it is easier to
identify when skeletal structures are visible.> I can't
find a Google image that resembles mine at all. <Send in a pic
and we'll see if we can figure it out.> Anyway, I am
thinking about setting up another water pump on the opposite end
of the tank so that the two pumps would be facing each other, to
create more random flow <Would be better than have a constant
direct flow. Laminar flow is not bad onto itself. But constant
laminar flow can be a problem.> -- although I also have a
torch, branching hammer, branching frogspawn, and candy canes
that are happy and growing. <Yikes! This could be your
problem! That's a lot of Euphyllia and a lot of allelopathy!
This may very well be the cause of you brains suffering. I hope
you run carbon and change it frequently!> Thanks Again
<Welcome as always.> -- these kinds of details don't
always make it into the books, <Mmm, much of it is in the
books, you just need to put it all together. This can be the
challenge.> Scott <Cheers, Mich>
Re: Receding Open Brain'¦ Feed Me Seymour --
09/29/07 Hello again, Mich, <Hello again Scott!>
I'm attaching a pic this time; after reading some more I have
some suspicions about the identity of this thing, but tell me
what you think. Maybe if I know what it is, I'll know if
there's anything more I can do for it. <Is/was a
Trachyphyllia.> Like I said in my first e-mail, it sits about
9 inches from a Trach that's doing great. Every night this
one eats something, but it continues to recede. Will it tend to
do worse before it gets better? <AYE! This is in far worse
shape than I expected. I am very doubtful that you'll be able
to bring this guy back to health.> I added a second water
pump, perpendicular to the first. I tried facing them at each
other, but it was a little too turbulent. I did change the carbon
cartridge in my HOB filter, but maybe you can tell me what you
mean by "change it frequently" (it's a Cascade 300,
cartridges are about 7" square, half-inch thick, pumps
300gal/min). <Once a month, maybe even twice a month.>
Allelopathy is something I wasn't warned about while buying
all my corals at the same LFS; when I finally asked about it, the
advice I got was that allelopathy is somewhat overrated <I
would disagree, in fact, I think much the opposite.> (as far
as getting this info from books, check this out: in
Borneman's book, there's no entry for
"allelopathy" in the index). <Borneman covers it my
friend. Check out page 73, the section on Chemical Competition.
He mentions it through out the text in reference to specific
corals as well.> Should I step up water changes? <Likely it
wouldn't hurt, but I doubt that it will help this coral.
Though I hope I am wrong, I think this coral is just too far
gone.> If I didn't want to get rid of some of my corals,
could I group them together by type in opposite ends of the tank?
<Could help, but eventually it will be a matter of survival of
the fittest.> Also, I have not invested in a protein skimmer,
because I have never had any measurable nitrates/nitrites in the
tank, <Surprising.> and have read that over-filtering and
-skimming can strip out your water. I have been advised by two
different LFSs that I don't need a skimmer. Do you guys
consider them a given? <I do. I am currently running a tank
with out any fish and feed minimally and you would be surprised
by the skimmate that is produced. More here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_2/cav2i5/Filtration/Filtration.htm
> Thanks too much,
<Welcome! Mich>
Scott
|
|
Sick Open Brain... -- 08/02/07 Hello Crew,
<Hi Thomas, Mich with you again. How is that goby of yours and
his little pail? Heehee!> I was given (more like took) <Heee!
I like honesty!> a bleached Open Brain. The person who I
received it from had given up and the Brain was the only thing
showing any sign of life. The next step was the dumpster
<Yikes!> for this guy so I took it home hopping <The brain
was hopping? Wow! Cool trick!> to do the right thing. When I
quarantined it there was no sign of color in the outer ridge and
the center had and still has a light fluorescent green glow under
the light. I think it is a Trachyphyllia geoffroyi but it is too
bleached to be positive. I quarantined it for two weeks and could
not get it to eat. I have since moved it to my nano tank in hopes
that it would find something in the water channel to eat. I have
noticed that the outer ring is showing signs of pink coloring
building up. This is a slow progression. <I hope you have strong
lighting on this nano system. Oh! I see you do!> I still have
not been able to feed it and have read that this is a must if this
guy is to recover. <Yes.> I have used a turkey baster to put
the food on the center section. <This is a good start.> The
meaty foods I have tried so far are clams, Mysis, and squid all
soaked in Selcon. <Good.> They all float away and do not
stick to the brain. <Here is the problem. You will need to stop
all circulation in your tank. Allow the food to sit on the center
of this brain. It may need to sit there for quite some time...
perhaps an hour or more. Hopefully you will see several small
mouths open... will look like slits in the center of the coral. Now
here's the challenge... during this time you will need to keep
all potential thieves away... i.e. fish, shrimp, crabs. Much easier
said than done. Plastic Strawberry baskets sometimes work or
perhaps cut apart a plastic two-liter bottle or gallon
container.> This assumption that the food is supposed to stick
may be incorrect on my end. <Yes. This coral basically needs to
be spoon fed at this point because it has been terribly
compromised. > I have also been adding Kent Phytoplex and Zoomax
to the water. <Mmm... not a fan.> My tank specs are as
follows. Ammonia = 0 Nitrite = 0 Nitrate = <10 Phosphate = 0
Alkaline = 4 meq/l PH = 8.3 Calcium = 360 SG = 1.024 Temp = 79 F
24-gallon tank Aqua-c Nano Remora protein skimmer 150 watt MH light
2.5" live sand <Over 3 or under a half is generally better
than this in between amount.> 35lbs of live rock The tank is
seven months old. I have gone through the FAQ's and read up on
open brains in two corral books <Hmm, cattle paddock?> trying
to find out what procedure I need to follow to bring this guy back
to good health. <See above.> I asked the LFS if they would
take him at first but they stated that it needed to go in the
trash. I don't believe this to be true. <Time will
ultimately tell.> If you could give me any advise and point me
in the right direction please. Thanks again for your help. <You
are most welcome! Mich>
Thomas |
|
Open Brain Troubles 4/26/07 I recently purchased an
open brain coral from the local aquarium store. <Okay.> It was
very healthy at first and for the first week was swelling and acting
normally. I was told that every so often I could feed it a
piece or two of silverside feeder fish to help it grow. <Mmm...is
true that this animal should be fed but I would prefer something other
than silversides or at least something in addition. Go for some Mysis,
krill or even bivalve meat (scallop, clam, mussel).> After about a
week of acclimation to the tank I fed it two small
pieces. It immediately swelled around each piece and
ingested them. The next morning it was not swollen and I
assumed it was due to the digestion of the fish. I waited for a few
days and it still had not returned to normal. I asked the
store and they told me it may stay shrunk for a week or so and not to
worry. Well things have gotten a lot worse. It
had never returned to normal and now the "skin" has begun to
pull away from the skeleton and it looks like it is
dying. Is there any way to save it and what happened to make
it start dying? Was I not supposed to feed it? <A few
question from me first; what type of lighting was the animal in at the
store and what type of lighting are you providing now? How turbid id
the flow the animal is in...and...what are your water parameters?>
Thanks <Welcome.> Kevin <Adam J.>
Open Brain Coral. HELP!! - 08/20/05 Hi, <<Hello>>
I recently bought an open brain coral that is hot pink and green.
<<I love these!>> It has not opened up at all yet to
release its tentacles but it has opened and closed its
mouth. I am only feeding it oyster eggs and plankton at the
moment. <<Diced meaty foods please...>> My concern is that
the coral is starting to lose its color and the skeleton is starting
to show around the edges. <<A bad sign.>> I moved it into a
cave because I think the light was to strong. <<A common mistake
to put these corals in the top third of the tank believing the bright
colors indicate high light requirements...usually dooms the
coral. Should be on the bottom in the sand for most
(conical-shaped skeleton).>> Since then I have yet to see the
mouth close at all. Is this normal? <<No...another bad
sign.>> Now, the fleshy middle where the mouth is has been ripped
or detached from the outer skeleton. Will my coral make it
to see another day or is this a battle that's already been lost?
<<From your description I'm inclined to believe this coral is
doomed/lost. Do ensure your water parameters are up to par,
and have a good read through our FAQs re this
coral: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/trachyphyllidfaqs.htm Jessica
<<Regards, EricR>>
Open brain question Hi WWM crew -- love your
website; what a wonderful resource of information! I have
searched the archives, FAQs, etc. but not found enough specific info to
answer my question . . . so here we go: I was recently (10 days ago)
given an open brain coral (Trachyphyllia geoffroyi) by a well-meaning
(but lacking any aquarium experience) friend. I have a 125 g reef
system, up and running for 18 months. Current creatures include: 4
clowns sharing 2 BTAs, 1 yellow tang, 1 royal Gramma, 1 cleaner shrimp,
1 coral banded shrimp, and usual assortment of snails. Corals include 1
hammerhead, 1 Galaxea, a small stalk of xenia, and 2 gorgonians
(Diodogorgia nodulifera & Swiftia exserta). The BTAs are on one
side of the tank, anchored mid-way up the rockwork and happy campers.
The hammerhead and Galaxea are on the other side of the tank, about a
foot apart and 8' from the top of the tank. The gorgonians are on
the sand, one at each end of the tank. I placed the open brain in
the sand at the front center of the tank, where it gets light and
low/moderate current. (current provided by 2 opposing MaxiJet 1200s in
the two back corners of the tank and inflow from a Rena XP3 (used for
mechanical filtration), a Mag3 and no-name powerhead rated at 500gph
also provide circulation (the Mag3 runs an Aqua C Remora protein
skimmer) (total circulation = 15x tank volume). Water parameters
all test fine (0 ammonia, nitrates, nitrites, phosphates) with Alk of
3.5 mEq and Ca 300-350ppm range, depending on water changes/bi-weekly
dosing. <Okay> Anyway, I didn't know anything about brain
corals before receiving this one, so read everything I could find about
them on your website. This coral doesn't have good polyp extension,
the swelling barely covered the skeleton when I got him, so I figured
he was probably hungry, and after several days to acclimate, I
attempted feeding him finely diced shrimp & mussels (same mixture I
feed the anemones). I have gotten him to eat twice, but he
doesn't have long or large feeding tentacles -- they only raise
like tiny bumps. It is a slow process that takes about 1 hour to
accomplish, and I have to fend off my cleaner shrimp to keep him from
trying to steal the food while the brain is working at engulfing it
with the polyps/tentacles. I was guessing that maybe he is just starved
and has tissue recession due to capture, lack of feeding, etc.
<This is my guess as well> But after the second feeding two days
ago, he seems to have gotten worse. The skin seems to be tearing and
ridges of the skeleton are poking through on two of the polyps. He is
not even swelling at all during the day. The polyps are deflated and
looking thin. Upon careful inspection I noticed that it appears he has
had a slow tissue regression for some time. Can it be saved?
<Yes> If so, what is the best approach? I have noticed what
appear to be grains of sand in the skeletal parts that are exposed. Any
suggestions? Thanks, Kevin <I do not see that you add iodine/ate
here... I would definitely dose this at near maximum... I would
re-direct your circulation to this animals vicinity and if possible
increase the lighting directed toward it... other than this, I would
not move it, would keep offering foods... Bob Fenner>
Trachyphyllia geoffroyi in Distress Bob, <Steven Pro this
evening.> We've had a Trachyphyllia Geoffroyi for about 5 months
now. Up until a couple of weeks ago, it was doing great. Over the past
couple of weeks, it's been expanding less and less. At this point,
when the lights are on it's very shriveled up. Everything else in
the tank is doing fine. We've been putting phytoplankton in the
tank, <Of no use. RMF> but haven't been specifically feeding the Trachyphyllia until
the past couple of days. It's been expanding its feeders further at
night, so we thought it was possibly just hungry. We've been
defrosting frozen reef cubes (a mixture of different shell fish) and
placing it right on the feeders, but it's only taken the food
twice. The rest of the time, it eventually floats off or the shrimp
come and get it. We've also tried moving it up off the sand and
closer to the lights, but nothing seems to be helping. It's reached
the point where are tangs and damsels are starting to pick at it. Is
there something else we could be doing for it? <It sounds like a
nutrition/feeding problem. This coral does not eat phytoplankton nor
will it like big cubes of frozen foods. Try feeding defrosted, frozen
Mysis shrimp and/or plankton nightly. Also, you may want to soak this
food while defrosting in Selcon and Vita-Chem. Lastly, if this coral
appears to die, leave it in your tank for up to two months. I cannot go
into details until Anthony & I finish our article. -Steven Pro>
Thank so much for any help you can provide. Kathy Fielder
Re: Trachyphyllia geoffroyi in Distress Did Anthony mention
this to you? We are keeping it kind of secret. I made a big discovery,
anthocauli production in a "dead" Trachyphyllia one month
after "death". I have photos and we worked up an article for
publication. Every other source we could find says this only occurs in
the Fungiids. When we are finished, we will send to you for review,
editing, and possibly forwarding to your contacts at FAMA. <Sounds
great... and Steve, you (all) don't "need" my assistance
in editing, forwarding to editors... am glad to help in anyway I can
though. Bob F, who hopes to see your materials also running on our
sites... AND you referring people to the articles, accumulated FAQs
there more.> Thanks, Steven Pro
|
|