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Heteractis magnifica lighting 12/29/03 Hi Anthony, <cheers, Jerry :) > I thank you for your honest assessment. <always welcome, my friend> I have been searching the web and this site to try to get an handle on the size of aquarium and the amount of lighting needed. I did not want to put out the money now and find out later that I needed bigger and better. I would rather save money in the long run and do it right the first time. <yes... the best way> Add to that the retroactive pay I will get in 3 weeks (school districts never settle contracts until the year is half over), I do have the means to metal halide if I need to. Besides, I have seen systems with metal halide and they look great. Fortunately, I have known the owner of my LFS for 20 years now and he gives major discounts to the marine biology teachers in the area. I still plan to build my own aquarium, I will just make it larger. I have spent the past few days reading about sumps and how to build them, so I will add one of those. The nice thing is that I still have two more weeks of vacation, so I have enough time. I think an aquarium dedicated to the H. mag and a pair of clownfish would be a great project. I still love to do research type stuff. <as a teacher and with a love for sharing and acquiring knowledge, I have great faith that you are the best kind of person/aquarist to try to keep this anemone species> I am now planning on an aquarium of about 100 gallons with intense metal halide lights. Could you give me an idea on wattage and number of MH? I will not have any other coral or inverts in this aquarium, so I can center the light over the anemone. <there are many possibilities here... but to give you my best all-around recommendation. I'd suggest one 150-watt double ended HQI (10K color) for ever 2 feet of tank length. You will need no other lamps (no fluorescent actinics). This scheme is IMO the best balance between lamp life/efficiency, intensity, and aesthetics/color. If instead you wanted faster growth or better lamp life... then shift towards 6500 K Iwasaki lamps. But please resist excess blue light here. It serves little purpose for this daylight loving anemone. Nothing bluer than 10K (stay in the 5000- 10,000 K color range). Best of luck, Anthony> - Anemone Lighting - Bob, <Actually, JasonC here today...> I've read many articles on your website and I find it highly informative. Truly, *Thank you* for such a wonderful site... My wife and I have learned so much from it. <Glad you find it useful.> My wife and I started our 55gal tank almost 6 months ago. We started out with a pretty basic setup with the exception of a wet/dry filter system and a MagDrive 5. We've always wanted a reef type tank and since then our setup has advanced quite far. We now have a sea clone protein skimmer, Double Helix UV sterilizer, and probably about 400gph worth of power heads. We have 53lbs live rock and 60lbs live sand. The live sand Makes for a nice DSB in a 55gal. As far as fish go, we only have a Regal Tang, a Yellow Tang, and a pair of Perculas. We've recently installed a RO system under our sink and started using that for our 10% weekly water changes. For lighting, we have a power compact system on top with 2 65w 10K 50/50s and 2 65w Actinic. We would eventually like to keep a Saddle or a Carpet anemone and maybe some different types of corals (more research involved before deciding on corals). However, I've been told, or seen on internet, that the Power compacts will only *effectively* penetrate the water to about 12". <Well... this is really all relative to what you want to keep. There are several invertebrate cnidarians that will thrive under this type of lighting, but anemones are not in that group.> If this is true then we're thinking about adding 2 10K 175w Metal Halides. <That would do it, but you'd likely have to lose some of those powerheads too... hazardous to the soft-bodied anemones.> Will the 175w MH *effectively* penetrate to the bottom of the tank good enough to have a saddle or carpet type of anemone? <Yes.> Some places I've seen say that the 175w MH won't penetrate to the bottom of a 24" tall tank. Some places I've seen say the opposite. What's your opinion?? <I think with two 175 watt metal halides, you'll do fine.> Should I get 2 175w MH or 2 250w MH or are my power compacts enough? <Stick with the 175's.> Jason <Cheers, J -- > Anemone Lighting (11-1-03) Hello gents,<Howdy, Cody here today. Sorry for the delayed reply.> I thought I would set up my 38 gallon and experiment with an anemone. Well I got it up and running and even got a few mushrooms in it, live rock around 40lbs. I got a LTA and I was wondering if the light I have is ok-- 1-96w 10k pc and 1-96w actinic pc. Would that do for the anemone?? Also can or should I add a rose anemone?? Or how about another LTA that was in the same tank at my dealer as was the one I got? <What are the dimensions of the tank. I would probably add at least 1 more 96w if not 2 more. You can do some more research at our site www.wetwebmedia.com. Cody>thanks -Shy anemone- Hi Crew, I read your site almost daily and you
have provided great help in the past. <Excellent!> I've got
another question if you have time. Everything I have ever read about
anemone's is that they require a lot of light. I have a 110 gal
which had on it PC's at 288 watts. Two normal and 1 actinic. For
many months the anemone stayed low in the tank and seemed to be doing
fine. I just upgraded to MH lights, 2 -175 watts and 2-55 watt actinics
with a PFO hood. It's a great unit. <That they are, and nicely
made.> I had started the lights at 20" above the tank and plan
to lower them an inch every couple of days until I get to 9" above
the water. I have noticed that the anemone had moved even lower after
changing to the PFO hood. A couple of days later he started hiding in a
cave. Today he's peeking out a little bit. What could be making him
shy away from the lights? <Absolutely. The sudden blast of light is
stressful to the anemone for a few reasons, but basically it just needs
time to acclimate to this new lighting. It is suggested when upgrading
to MH that you start very high off the tank (like you have done) and
slowly increase the photoperiod from as few as a couple of hours per
day to your desired photoperiod over a couple of weeks. Once that's
over with, lower it an inch or two every few days until it where you
want it.> As of today the lights are about 16" off the water.
All water specs are great. I did the google search in WWM ,but I
can't find anything related to my question. <An excellent place
to start, nonetheless. Just give it some time, and if it appears to
bleach at all or appears otherwise unhealthy, you may be lowering the
light too fast. Good luck! -Kevin> Thanks again, Dick Lighting for anemones - 10/6/03 Paul , I guess I spent another 200 for nothing I put another smart lamp on so I have now 4 65 watt 50 50 on the 75 gal and if I understand from your email that's only good for a 40 gal <well, that is works for me. You adding the lights will probably help but is severely insufficient for anemones (in most cases). More does help though, don't get me wrong. This situation you are in is a good example why a good plan is very important to the success of the animal as well as the keeper.> I thought it was 3 watts per gal? <Watts are not a barometer for sufficiently lighting invertebrates, mate> theirs a hood for sale for 500 with 4 96 50 50 in it that's almost 400 watts will that do? <Well, I like PCs don't get me wrong. I think this will help if you are going to base your lighting on the already discussed wattage per gallon theory. Quality light additions are always helpful, but if you are gonna spend 500 bucks why not just get a 400W halide with two actinic PCs? There is sooooo much written about lighting reefs not only on our site, but many other sites and in print. Read Anthony's article about lighting reef invertebrates here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm and more info on lighting here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marcanopies.htm read the faqs and head out to the forums for some real world real time advice from people who are keeping anemones. While we are on the subject of keeping anemones, "red anemone" is not an ID. It would be useful for you to positively identify the animals in your charges. Goes a long way for others to give advice, in my findings> sorry to bother you again, <No worries, tis why we are here, my friend>.........the man at the LFS said it was fine with what I had and I wanted the pc figured it was easy, <Lighting is easy whether it is PC, VHO, or halide, in my opinion. Also, you wouldn't be asking for additional advice on the subject of lighting if you really and truly felt that the LFS salesperson was giving you the proper information right?> I have 2 long red based anemones that my friend was throwing away <really???? What does that mean? Garbage? You need to chat with this friend> so I took them in and started a tank again its been 10 years but I only had fish. <Lot's has changed over time, my friend. Invertebrates (corals and anemones are not fish. Lighting is important to invertebrates> I been reading everything on your sight for 3 days and it is awesome <Agreed. It's how I became a volunteer here> I know don't cycle the tank with them but it was that or he was throwing them away <Not a good idea to cycle with them or throw them away. You couldn't find a fish store in the area to take 'em??> there both doing well so far, <How long has it been?> opening up and eating big time one is at least 5 inch across the other only fully opens up at night so I feed him then have more live rock in tank had it there now over a week and no ammonia at all nitrate nitrites <Whuh????? Nitrites?> 0 nada some brown algae but very little. anyways what watts do I need in the PC's don't want too go with the VHO <Not sure what watts you should have as I don't even know exactly what kind of anemone, nor do I necessarily subscribe to the watts per gallon theory per se. Read our site carefully....look through the anemones section, as well as all the information on setup etc. You have lots of reading to do (we'll call it research so as to sound important TeeHee) Keep your head -Paul> thanks Stephen Lighting for corals and anemones - 10/05/03 I looked and I can't seem to find the answer, I have a 75 gal for lighting I have a smart light with 2 65 watt 50/ 50 bulbs a eco system on it a 100 gal protein skimmer and a 304 canister is my lighting enough for red based anemones? <Likely not. There are many arguments for properly lighting various invertebrates, but one thing for sure, there is not enough light in you tank for invertebrate sustainability, sorry to say. To put it into perspective, I have a 20 gallon with two 65 watt 50/50s on it and can sustain a fair amount of soft corals. There is more to it than just light but again, I can easily say this is not near enough for this type of life in a 75 gallon tank. Research your inhabitants before purchasing as to know where to place, foods, and general environment, but be sure to up the lighting as well.> Can I do coral to or need more lighting? <More light is needed even for low light corals, unless you plan to do heterotrophic corals. More research is needed. The answer is out there - Paul> Shedding Some Light On Anemone Coloration? I have a Sebae anemone that used to be white with purple tips. Several months ago I moved the entire tank and now the anemone is always a light brown color. It looks like it's growing and healthy. I also have 2 clown fish. Is it healthy or should this anemone be white? Thank you, Erin <It could be a function of the light that the animal is exposed to. The concentration of zooxanthellae in the animal's tissues can influence the color. Colors can vary widely in these animals. Other times, they can be a response to stress. In your case, because the anemone is feeding and responding normally, I'd think that it's a response to lighting. Perhaps the animal needs more light. The zooxanthellae may be concentrated in the tissues as a response to lower lighting than it is receiving. Try increasing the lighting a bit, and see how the animal responds. Regards, Scott F> -Macrodactyla doreensis and Entacmaea quadricolor- Macrodactyla doreensis and Entacmaea quadricolor have interested me for a long time.. I have finally decided to give it a try.. the tank has cycled.. its a 60 gallon tank.. the dimensions are (LxWxH) 48"x15"x14.5".. lighting is what came with the system about 120 watts.. 2 4' Coralife 40w 50/50 and 1 4' 40w marine Glo.. I also have 30 lbs of live rock in the tank.. my question is what is this amount of light enough to keep these particular anemone's?? <I would suggest at least 4x55w PC's as a minimum for either, and of the two E. quad. is a much hardier specimen (they can also easily be acquired tank raised.>and if not, r there any other anemone's that would work in this amount of light??? <Not any pacific anemone I can think of> and if not.. r there any corals that I could keep with this amount of light?? <'Shrooms and polyps may do alright, but I'd strongly suggest upgrading to my earlier suggestion. Good luck! -Kevin> thank u very much for answering.. Jiwan Lights, Anemones, Clowns, Action!! 08/06/03 <Hi Stephen, PF with you tonight> Hi Bob, Got some questions. just quickly, thanks in advance to you and the entire staff WWM, do not think that we thank you enough but we try) Slowly setting up a 54g corner fish/live rock/live sand marine tank. Would like a pair of true percula's with an anemone as the classic centerpiece, so I am trying to design things for them. First, would love a rose BTA but not sure about compatibility with percula clowns. second, I have 130W power compact,( 10k daylight, 7100k blue actinic), and two 1W moonlights, bottom of the tank with a 3-4 inch sand bed is roughly 18-20 inches from the light. Could you make some suggestions as to what host for percula clowns would work with this lighting, even if it is an interesting host coral. If not advised with this lighting please make recommendation for how much or type light upgrade. Other tank specs include an AquaC remora protein skimmer, Eheim 2128 saltwater thermofilter, two maxijet900 powerheads hooked to a red sea wave master pro. Any input regarding powerhead intervals would be welcomed. Since I am only adding about 30-35 lb of Fiji live rock (to leave plenty of room for fish/inverts, etc.)/ 60lbs live sand, should some nitrifying substrate be added to one of the Eheim chambers to boost filtration. Now before the beginning of cycling I only have mechanical substrate present and a small bag of SeaChem PhosGuard. Also, water was made from Instant Ocean salt mix and ro water, has been circulating in the tank with filtration for one week, no rock, no sand, no light, temp is holding a 78 degrees, s.g. holding at 1.024, 32% according to my refractometer. Thinking about adding one of those hang-on CPR refugiums in the near future, would it be a benefit? Any thoughts about additions and/or deletions of my above production? If not , " It's on with the Show!!!" As an aside, speaking about shows, did you and your staff ever think about a radio talk show, they do it with cars, they do it with law, they do it with finance, it would be great to have one about tropical fish with a call-in session, equipment reviews, guest interviews, etc.. Thanks again Stephen <Well Stephen, I think the lighting is too low for a BTA. You would have to upgrade to MH in my opinion. If you would like though, you could go with a species of Sarcophyton coral, clowns will host to those. I've had my clowns (the same pair...) host to: a Caribbean flower pot anemone, a powerhead, a piece of LR, and currently my frogspawn. Where'll they go next is anyone's guess. As for filtration, it sounds good to me. Be sure and follow the PhosGuard directions closely, some phosphate sponges will leach phosphates back when they become full. The HOT refugium is a good idea, any refugium is better than none. So far it all sounds good to me, looking forward to the next episode of the show. And I like your idea too, it would be great to hear Bob and Anthony on the air.> -More on lighting anemones- Hey Bob, Kevin and Crew!
<Kevin here, I hope you are doing well.> I am writing for a few
reasons, but I wanted to first thank Kevin for his fine advice about
lighting, I added a second fluorescent strip to my 20XH, put 1 10,000K
bulb and another actinic. The lights don't fit perfectly
over the top but the anemone is a lot happier and has a much darker
color to her now (it's been about two months with the new
lighting). She is still big but not as big as she was, and I
don't seem to have to feed her as often. And the tank is so much
brighter and pretty! Thanks for helping me solve a problem I
didn't know I had! <I hate bubble-busting, but if you simply
added another normal output strip to the tank, it is still not enough.
In a previous email I suggested a pair of full length power compact
lamps as a minimum, although better than before, your set-up will still
not be enough. If this is not the case, and I am mistaken, great!
Either way I would suggest that you purchase Joyce Wilkerson's book
on clownfish and their anemones, it has all the information you could
ever need on this topic.> Anyways, these guys are growing, and
it's been my intention all along to get them a bigger
tank. I wanted to wait till I got a house (live in a small
apt with who knows how strong floors) and go with a 125. <Ah, your
downstairs neighbors won't mind having a tank in their living
room.... via your floor!> But I am getting antsy and want a bigger
sprawl for my babies NOW. So I am planning on upgrading to a
55, or if I can find it, a 60 long (48x12x22). <Keep in mind the
shallower the better when lighting is involved.> I will be setting
up the tank using the AquaC Remora skimmer which I see everyone on WWM
loves. <That we do, plug, play and skim!> About 60 lbs of Live
rock, I will continue to use my Emperor 280. I really
want to use DSB for NNR but I think that my clown, who disturbs the
crush coral around his anemone, and the goby who tunnels, would disturb
the fauna too much to be of any good. Would you agree that
this wouldn't be a good idea? <Many people with digging clowns
keep healthy DSB's, but the goby may be a problem if he is
consistently churning things up. It would be well to your advantage to
lose the goby and install a DSB!> So then I decided, I could use a
DSB in a sump. I have created a SUMP design (attached as a
GIF) and would like your comments: 1) Is this sump design
ok? What would you change if anything? <Looks good to me.
I would recommend against any mechanical filtration though; stuff
trapped in the pads could be a potential food source for the sump
dwelling critters.> 2) Would a sump of this size provide
enough filtration for a 55 - 60 gallon tank? What about when
I want to upgrade to that 125 in a year or so? Would I need
to make a new sump at that point? <Should be fine and very
beneficial. It is up to you whether or not you would like to make
another one, since you're doing it yourself it should be
inexpensive.> 3) Would this setup eventually provide
daily plankton blooms that the fish in the main tank could eat (not as
a main food source, I would still feed them obviously)? <That it
should, nothing like home cookin'!> 4) Am I correct
in saying that I could use this sump for an isolation tank as well,
only if I install and turn on a UV sterilizer on the return line, at
the expense of plankton blooms (and even then some ich babies might
still make it through) <You really need to quarantine fish in a
separate tank so you can medicate them if need be. It would be fine for
separating an aggressive fish or one that has been nipped up, even for
small-scale breeding (like Banggai cardinals!).> 5) It
seems from what I am reading on your site that no one likes the CPR
siphon type overflows. <I HATE THEM. But that's just my opinion.
:) > Yet, the only other overflows I see are the built in ones that
AGA gives you. Can you point me in the right direction to
get a quality overflow? I have read your overflow faq, but I
still can't find any particular brand or type. <Most mfg who
makes sumps or wet-dry filters also makes u-tube style overflow boxes.
Sea life systems comes to mind. http://www.sealifesystems.com/ >
6) If I am drilling the holes in the side, how close to the
top of the tank should they be? <For the return pump? Plop the pump
next to the sump for an accurate idea of where the hole needs to be.
The bottom of the hole will likely be 2" up from the bottom>
Note that I would keep the RemoraC and the emperor on the main tank,
not that I couldn't probably fit them on the sump, but I don't
mind having them behind the tank anyway and this would allow me not to
care too much about leveling issues in the sump. <The Iwaki will
sure care!> Wait! there are actually more questions! I am
looking into the 48" AGA compact fluorescent. I notice
that this includes two bulbs, both of which are 50/50. My
experience with regular Coralife 50/50 bulbs isn't good, they
aren't very bright or actinic. Are the compacts
better? Could you suggest something fluorescent that would
be good for this size tank that isn't more than $150? Is
there anything? <You'll be in the 200+ range for minimal power
compact lighting for a four foot aquarium. The MINIMUM lighting I would
put on this aquarium for your anemone is 4 55 or 65 watt power compact
lamps. Both Coralife and Custom Sealife make inexpensive fixtures of
this order. Like I said before, normal output fluorescents (whether
50/50, 10k, actinic, don't matter!) will NOT do the trick for
keeping this critter alive.> You guys have the best website on the
web. I spend way too much time on there than is healthy, but
alas, I am afflicted with the sickness of marine aquatics. <It's
too bad that we can't get vaccinated for this when we're
babies. I'd have sooo much money! -Kevin> Thanks again James 2 New False Perculas >First off I would like to thank you for the very valuable and unmatched info you have provided to all willing to ask! >>You're most welcome, as are all. Marina today. >I am about 8 weeks since setting up my 45gal, LR, LS, setup. I am using a AquaC Remora skimmer, and Magnum 350 canister as my only (plug-in) filtration, and a power head inside the tank for a little extra water movement. Lighting is a 7hrs. on a day Coralife VHO 96W 50/50 fluorescent (all-in-one-system) Currently established in the tank are 1 Peppermint shrimp, 2 chocolate chip stars, about a dozen or so scarlet and blue leg crabs, one emerald crab, couple snails, 1 queen conch...and this week put in the 2 new clowns (false Percula) they are supposedly tank raised, and they look very healthy. They have been in the tank 2 days now, and have been very active after about 5 minutes of getting used to the aquarium. They always are hiding in the corner till I walk into the room...then they come up to the front of the tank to see what's going on. >>That sounds captive bred to me. >I have been feeding them, and they have eaten graciously "Formula One marine pellet" by Ocean Nutrition. It has been the only thing I have been target feeding them. I noticed they are stealing scraps of frozen clam I am feeding to the stars. Should I be trying to diversify their food better? And if yes, with what? >>Yes, and the clams are a good start. Soak it in Selcon a few times a week for best nutrition. Also, squid, octopus, and raw shrimp are all good choices for variety. Frozen mysis shrimp will only add to the variety. Treat them as you would yourself, variety is key to a healthy diet. Do know that you will not be able to keep many soft corals/polyps with the chocolate chips stars. Also, if you set up a sump/refugium, you will be able to eliminate the Magnum 350, and then set THAT up with the diatom filter for fast water polishing. >They never seem to sleep, is this normal? They seem to have paired up well from the start...one smaller than the other, and I am planning on putting in an anemone in a month or so. >>You will not be able to keep many anemones well with the lighting and filtration you have described. Also, many relate that captive bred clowns are not as eager to adopt anemones, they seem to not know *what* to do with them. Please check these links: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/index.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acclimcoralslight.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm -- DO follow ALL the links you can find within these three, more will ensue, and soon you'll find that there is a VAST amount of anemone-related information here. >Sound like a good idea? I have been having trouble finding a good first anemone both for me and the clowns (false Percula) that will be easy to keep. >>This is because there is effectively no such thing. Unless you count Aiptasia, but the clowns will have no use or affinity for them. >I have not decided yet on any more livestock after this because I am very worried about overstocking the tank. All water parameters seem good with the exception of a very consistent 82 degree temp reading. Never budgeted a chiller into the equation, and I hope I won't have to. Any other thoughts concerns or info into what I may be doing wrong would be incredibly appreciated. >>I'm operating from the assumption that you are endeavoring to do things RIGHT, and the only suggestion I have for you is to make use of muffin fans--set them up (installed in the hood/canopy is the most visually appealing) blowing across the surface of the water and you should see the temp dropping a few degrees. >Thank you for reading this over in advance. >>You're quite welcome, and I do hope this helps. Best of luck, Marina Condylactis Anemone Lighting Requirements <Hi! Ryan with you> Hi my name is Michael and I have a 92G Oceanic corner tank and have been studying about Condys. I think I want one but I want to make sure about the lighting I have. In the very back of the tank I have 2- 28W Actinic PC's, in front of that I have a 175W MH 5500K, and in front of that I have 1-96W 10K PC, and in front of that 1-96W actinic PC. Is this enough lighting for a anemone "Condy"? I LOVE YOU GUYS! Thanks for being here. Michael <Michael, it sounds like you're on your way to providing a good home for anemones. You'll have about 4-5 watts per gallon with your current lighting- sounds appropriate. I can't stress enough that you need high water quality. You didn't mention live rock/sand. I wouldn't even try an anemone of any sort without a deep sand bed and 1-2 pounds of live rock per gallon. These links should prove helpful in your research: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/condylactis.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/twaanemones.htm Best of luck! Ryan> - More on Marine Lighting - Thanks, JasonC. <My pleasure.> I can see the cost-effectiveness argument for SO fluorescents in a fish only context. So here's our situation. My 12 year old son would really like to be able to keep clownfish and a Bubble Top Anemone (this is the only type he thinks he can get tank-raised, and tank-raised is a BIG priority for him -- any leads you could give on aquacultured and tank-raised stuff would be appreciated). <Best place to find tank-raised anemones is in the hobby groups. Many people have had great success with the spitting of this anemone, but more often than not they are traded among hobbyists and don't make it to the store. Fish on the other hand are very often captive bred/raised and you can usually get a straight answer from your local fish store on the origin of their livestock.> Beyond that, it would be nice to have the option to do other high-light invertebrates, but we have no specifics plans for such. My inclination is to start with one of the 260 watt Coralife Aqualight 48 inch strips (over a standard 75 gallon tank). Then, if necessary or desirable, add a second such strip (I believe both would fit nicely on a 48x18 top, maybe (?) closely enough that a glass canopy could be omitted with little danger of fish jumping out). <With that anemone you'd probably want both lamps.> My son is inclined toward metal halides. <Would be the preferred way to go with the anemone.> He's thinking a couple of 250 watt Reefstars, or a couple of 400 watt Reef Optix/Blue Waves. <On a 75, you could easily get away with two 175 watt lamps, two 250's would be a lot of light and two 400's would be excessive.> With low-end ballasts, these would cost 50-70% more money than the Aqualights, but would put out 65-165% more lumens (based on what I've read about fluorescents and metal halides in general). <Indeed.> But we'd have to mount them, and I'm worried by the cautions I read about heat dissipation, safety, etc. <Well... safety is only a matter of a glass shield to prevent contact with the water and to filter out UV. Heat dissipation is a huge issue, but being aware of the problem is over half of the battle... is something you can plan around. But do keep in mind that power compacts do generate a good deal of heat of their own, but not as much as metal halides.> Your advice would be appreciated. Tom <Cheers, J -- > Antler Anemone Hi I want an antler anemone will a 75 with great water quality and 4 55 watt power compacts and powerheads make this thing happy? <I don't believe this is enough light unless the animal can be assured of staying in the top 10" of the surface (unlikely to stay put). You can feed extra to compensate for the modest lighting... but that really is hokey. This anemone will appreciate 4-5 watts per gallon (although I do dislike such rules of thumb). Best regards, Anthony> Lighting a long tentacle anemone: part 2 Thanks for the advice, I will look into getting some more powerful lights. I do feed the anemone actually about three times a week either mysis or prawn and he has been growing steadily. <Enlarging itself, no doubt, in an effort to say "Where's the light at?". Unfortunately, it is simply trying to expand itself so it can catch more light, which is futile.> I plan on moving in about a year and will be setting up a much bigger tank with a refugium for these guys <worry about the lighting first!> , and I plan on weekly gravel cleaning/water changes till then to keep the nitrates under control. <I beg you, PLEASE pick up a few good books and do lots of research because you're not quite headed in the right direction. As always, we're here to help! -Kevin> Thanks again. Illuminating the Anemone situation <Hi Neil, PF here.> Oh ye knowers of great & fishy things, I am setting up a 40 gallon tank, (36x15.5x16h) to be used as a small reef. My eventual goal is to keep a few SPS corals & an anemone (or 2). I realize that it will be a few months before the tank has matured enough for the anemone, <More like years, anemones need excellent conditions to survive, and a mature tanks. Read more here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm > but I want to get the right hardware the first time around. I have a 4 bulb 24" VHO set-up, and am contemplating metal halide. I've perused the FAQ's on the subject, and get the impression that Bob isn't too fond of it, yet there are many who believe that you can't keep these type of animals thriving without it. I've been advised to use a single 175 watt, 250 watt, dual 175's and even dual 250's! I don't want to use a chiller if I can avoid it, so trying to boil the water & it's inhabitants seem quite wasteful to me. Your opinions & recommendations on all this? <Well Neil, most anemones belong in the ocean in my opinion. If your hell bent for leather on getting one, I would advise getting one of the Caribbean Flower Pot anemones or obtaining a clone from a hobbyist's BTA. I would also advise that you do either SPS or anemones, but not both. Anemones are notorious for wandering around a tank and causing death and destruction across their path. Plus, the care requirements between the two are rather dissimilar. The problem with MH on a small tank (and 40 gallons is small in the marine world) is the heat issue you mentioned. I'd stick to either the VHO's or the T8's that have recently come available. Before buying the lighting though, research your animals needs thoroughly, and make sure your choices are compatible.> Thanks, Neil <Your welcome Neil, have a good night, PF> - RE: Lighting for an Anemone - Hi Jason! <Hello.>
First thanks for your quick response. =) <My pleasure.> In answer
to your questions. Yes I have actually read this http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm.
<Oh good.> <<Hard to say for certain - how deep is the tank
and where is the anemone placed?>> The tank is a 90 gallon
24inches deep and the anemone was on the top of the LR but is now on
the gravel :( <<Under normal fluorescent or your power-compact
upgrades?>> This would be under the new Compacts 4x65 watt if
acceptable. <I think this would work, but likely would not be
optimal.> Thanks again Jason =) <Cheers, J --
> HELP! BGA and anemone lighting: ODTAA ! >Hi Guys, >>Hello again Julian. >A follow-up to previous questions by me, and answers by the delectable Marina ... >>Why, thank you. >Many years ago, before I moved to the US, growing up in Cheltenham, England, I used to cycle past a garage ("gas station" to you "West Atlantic Coast" people) on the A38 between Gloucester and Tewkesbury that had a rather strange name: "The ODTAA Garage". It wasn't till years later that I found out what that meant:- "One Damned Thing After Another"! Let me explain ... >>Please do, although I can't say I don't always enjoy an entertaining story. >This is part of my last discussion with Marina:- > > >Last question: Because it's a shallow tank, the actinic and regular lamps don't mix well, so I swap the lamps front to back every couple of days to hit the LR at the back and the anemone and Caulerpa in front. > > >>Not sure I understand what you're saying. > >I meant that whatever bulb is in back, lights up the back, what's in front, lights up the front. The tank is so shallow the light doesn't mix back to front like it would in a deeper tank. > >>Ok, thanks! > > >>Live rock doesn't need lighting, your anemone does. Also, actinics aren't a necessary component of lighting, they are more for aesthetics. > Look here for information on lighting--> > http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm > >Excellent document, thanks. > >>That Anthony guy surely knows his stuff. ;) > >I guess from your answer and from the link, I should just put the same lamps in front and back, but selected for the anemone, which really means forget the Actinic in favor of full spectrum, unless I upgrade to PC. I'll try to get financial approval for that ... > >>LOL!! Spoken like a true husband (or at least S.O.)! Yes, that would be the course of action suggested. Remember, good reflectors can do a LOT to help spread the light, too.:--- >OK, so I got wifely approval for some lighting, and last Thursday the helpful Kim Bryant at the much-recommended AH Supply sold me two 1x55W PC kits with SmartLights, which arrived yesterday (Monday) and were temporarily "installed" (read: the bulbs sat on top of the glass in all their naked glory with the reflectors sat over them, and wires strewn all over the place). WOWZAH! Feel the force! Liking that, I am! Bright and sparkly, the tank is! >>That big a difference, eh? Yes, and with nefarious results as we soon shall see...read on. >Now the problem: within two and a half hours, every inch of the tank that is in some way covered with the dark red BGA - walls, LR, even the macro algae and the Caulerpa, is now frosted with bubbles. The bubbles got so big and strong they uprooted the Caulerpa! It's pretty in the light, but it looks unnatural. >>EGADS! Within hours? Holy smokes, we've got to help this chap out right quick, we do. >I can clear them off the glass, but I can't exactly scrub the LR and the macro algae. >>No, you can't. >The bubble aren't caused by the skimmer. Ammonia, nitrite, phosphate are all at zero, and nitrate is only barely above zero. HELP! Will this, too, pass in the great cycle of things, or is my lighting too strong now? >>Alas, yes, I think that you've given the boost a bit too much and a bit too quickly. Not to fear, though, it can indeed be sorted. >One more thing, I'm getting more activity from my "Sqwalter" (Walsh-modified Skilter), now that the new lights are on. I'll take that as a good thing. Julian >>Yes, and it's also an indicator of increased DOC's (dissolved organic compounds). Those trace nitrates are clearly being well-utilized by the Cyano, along with this lighting boost. So, first things first. Siphon off as much as you can, physical removal of the nutrients fixed by the BGA (which is, if I recollect correctly, actually bacteria, not true algae) is most helpful in preventing re-contamination). Also, the water changes effected by necessity brought about by the siphoning will be helpful as well, they needn't be large, but small frequent can bring about good results. >>You haven't mentioned photoperiod, so I'll assume at this point that you're giving the tank full photoperiod of 12-14 hours/day with these oh-so-powerful power compact units. In my opinion this will need to be reduced. Many folks acclimate by using the new lighting at first an hour or two/day, then increasing photoperiod in increments--the very judicious will break it up by the quarter hour. I will suggest that you use them (the new lights) in conjunction with the previous lighting in a method that "ramps up" to a peak (much like the noonday sun in the tropics) intensity lasting no more than 4 hours, then "ramp down". >>I understand your tank is shallow, so I'll also suggest reducing intensity with space--light intensity within the tank confines is reduced significantly with a distance of just a few inches, so in combination with reduced photoperiod, as well as increasing the distance between water column and lights, this should be of help in gaining victory against the BGA/Cyano. >>Now for some (hopefully!) helpful links: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acclimcoralslight.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bgafaqs.htm >>As well as the "mother link" via which you might hope to find other information pertinent that I may not have thought to cover here--> http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/index.htm >>So, reduce photoperiod, increase distance between lighting source and water column proper, small, frequent water changes, keep the skimmer cranked up full blast, and let us know if this helps at all. Entertaining stories, whether related or not, are ALWAYS welcome! Marina Lighting for LTA Hello, <Ananda here tonight...> I recently purchased a long tentacle anemone for my 30 gal tank. I know I have to change the lighting. My question is what is adequate lighting for a LTA. <Do start reading here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm also http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemonelightngfaqs.htm and http://www.wetwebmedia.com/anemonelgtgfaq2.htm hmmm...looks like Cody answered this one already. I agree with him. If your 30 gallon tank is the 30XH (footprint of a 20 gallon tank, but taller) rather than the 30 "long", you might consider a 175w. --Ananda> Anemone lighting Could I keep bubble tip anemones with 2x96W PC 1 actinic 10,000K? < If the tank is less than 18" tall then generally yes. Cody> Anemone lighting Hello I recently purchased a long tentacle anemone for the 30 gal tank. I know I have to change my lighting. What is adequate lighting for my LTA? < I would use either power compacts or metal halides. If you went either halides you could use the 150 watt double ended fixtures for that small of tank. Cody> Condy anemone and lighting Hi, I've spent some time reading through your faqs but couldn't find much information on PC lighting. I have an All-Glass power compact system with two 50/50 pc (110 watts) on a 55 gallon reef tank. <low light for corals indeed... over 200 watts needed here for most corals and anemones. (over 300 for strict species)> In the tank are a few fish one leather and two button polyps (coral have been there for months and have done well) - I have recently added a Condylactis which my two long time tomatoes immediately "loved" (within 15 min.s of introduction). Is the lighting enough? <not for the long-term perhaps (without frequent feedings to compensate> If not what would you recommend? <2 150 watt double ended HQI 10K lamps might be ideal> Are the clowns really "good" for the anemone or just doing the clown thing? <the latter indeed> Thanks in advance, Mike Ross Live Rock Placement and Lighting for anemone >I just got in another shipment of live rock and I want to design my 65g tank specifically for a future BTA anemone. I have 1 175w MH in the center of my tank as well as 2 96w compact fluorescents. Do I need to build the rock up as high as possible for the anemone or can it be a certain distance under the water under the MH? If necessary I could build the rock almost to the surface. Thanks! >>Wow! Sounds like you're going to be ready for anything. Look here for some general lighting information on anemones--> http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acclimcoralslight.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm Since you can, why not build something of a miniature mountain range that will allow the anemone to find its own place of preference (which it'll do anyway)? Hope this helps! Good luck, Marina. FAQ reply style Sorry but your reply did not come back with your e-mail could you send it again please <our replies are in carrots "<>" between and/or at the end of your question, my friend. See below. Anthony> Re: Lighting for anemone I am thinking of buying a VHO 2x75watt fixture from one of your sponsors for a 26gal tank. I want to keep a anemone. Should I get one actinic [75watt] and one daylight [75watt] bulb or one daylight and one 50/50[75watt] or maybe two 50/50 bulbs? Thank you very much, Steve <I would recommend a captive bred/cloned bubble tip anemone. I suggest one 50/50 and one actinic blue bulb. Get the electronic ballast (Ice Cap) to allow for future growth or the addition of a third bulb (50/50) if needed. PLEASE make sure you read all you can about anemones and their care and feeding before you adopt one! Have fun! Craig> Lighting for anemones 3/2/03 Hello, I have a 90 gallon tank - 48x18x24 I think <cheers, Mark... sorry for the delay in response. The site at times feels like it is growing faster than we can keep up with it :) > Currently have 2x55 W PC and a 40W actinic fluorescent for lighting. I've had a Haitian Anemone for about 6 months that has never seemed to be doing well (shrinks up about half the time - even though he has spent most of his time near the top of the tank) <indeed... not enough light even if the anemone stays in the shallows. From where this anemone is found in the sea (like most), you likely have less than 10% of the light it is used to getting. in many cases you can compensate for a lack of light with feeding... but this gap is too great> I feed him a piece of frozen food (formula one) about twice a week. <perhaps a little more food here too please. 3-5 times weekly in very small portions> I expect from all I've read on your site that he doesn't have enough light. <quite correct> I am going to order a long tentacle anemone, some mushrooms, button polyps and a clam (crocea). <Yikes... you cannot mix one anemone let alone 2 species with corals. Its a recipe for disaster literally in the long run. The reasons why this is so are documented in the archives and FAQs here at wetwebmedia.com Please read more about it and know that you simply must keep only one anemone per tank, and never mix it with other cnidarians> What I would like to do is replace the 40W bulb with a hood containing a SmartLight(2x65W 50/50 10K daylight/actinic). Will this be enough light for the new members? <it is still quite modest because of the depth of the tank. Do read here, my friend: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm > Also, from reading on your site it seems I should be feeding the Anemone more finely shredded food? <correct... large chunks are always taken but often regurgitated at night and the anemone still starves> Or does the frozen food dissolve and shred enough as he is holding it before he ingests it? <it dissolves about as fast as you stuffing a 12-cut pizza pie down your throat all at once rather than eating it piece by piece <G>.> And finally, what sort of feeding would the clam require? <mostly photosynthetic and will be fine unfed in very shallow water (less than 10") under these lights with incidental nutrition from the feces of corals and fishes that are fed daily> Thanks for any help, Mark <best regards, Anthony> Making Peace With His Anemones I would like to thank you guys
for all the help I have received from this site, and would like to say
that I have read your book. the Conscientious Marine Aquarist has to be
the best and most informative book I have read to date. Excellent work.
<Bob will sure appreciate that! It truly is a classic for all of us
to refer to often!> I had purchased this anemone for my clown so my
porcupine puffer would stop eating them. <Oh...not a recommended way
to protect clownfish...or the anemone, for that matter!> The tank is
a 55 gallon with lr and ls wet/dry filter with a modified SeaClone
skimmer. I used one of your suggestions in your book was adding an air
pump with airstone this think skims like crazy now. <That's
great! A skimmer is one of your best pieces of insurance against poor
water quality> It was the biggest improvement, modifying it. Thanks
to that book. <Cool!> Sorry I got of track. The lights are two
20,000k but there are only 15 watts. <Are you sure that you
don't mean 150 watts? 15 watts is just nothing! Get some serious
lighting- FAST! Minimum of 300-400 watts of PC or VHO- better yet,
metal halide> He is placed on a live rock perch about 6 in below the
lights and he his not moving around. Will he be ok with those lights I
have a feeling that you meant to say 150 watts, right?> or should I
speed up the building of my canopy with the 400 watt metal halide?
<400 watt halides, good water quality, NO harassing
tankmates...these should really help you keep the anemone healthy for
the long run!> Thks for all your help <My pleasure- good luck!
For more information on anemones, do a keyword search on them using the
Google search feature on the wetwebmedia.com site...Regards, Scott
F> Anemones Thank you very much Anthony, <quite welcome, my friend> You guys are successfully talking me out of this plan. <we simply want to help you make the right decision, of course. If you have the money, space and interest to keep an anemone... you certainly can do so with success. But it is a challenging creature and not for casual culture> How much would the halides that you mentioned cost me for a 75? <likely over $400. And lighting is one of the main reasons why aquarists fail with anemones. Most LFS preach weak light just to earn the sale or simply out of ignorance. I have nothing to sell you on the other hand <G>> My LFS told me a PC would cost me $200 and be ok. <the price and light are fine for shallow aquaria. Put that fixture over a 40 Long or 50 breeder tank and I would agree that it will be fine for the anemone (no MH needed). But in the 75, the anemone will move... and assuming it avoids the pump intakes and overflows... you will still be screwed if it moves into t a deep or dark place. The (common) practice of trying to extract it to return it to shallow water under weak lights over a deep tank often causes a fatal wound> I'm not about to drop a small fortune into lighting for a single anemone. <correct, my friend. This is exactly the sensible decision that more people should come too. And it is also the reason why so many anemones die when people do not take heed. Halides over a deep tank or PC/VHO over shallow (under 20")... I don't care either way. But Fluorescent over deep does not work for most> I mean this isn't even a reef tank! I was just gonna have a small moray, my maroon, and an anemone. <the mix is quite nice/possible> Perhaps I will go in a different direction. Thank you for your time. Rick <rock on my brother. Anthony> Everything you didn't want to know about Anemones: Hey crew, <hey you... guy... dude. Oh, I see below. Rick! Whassup, buddy! Chillin <G>> I wrote last week asking about a possible anemone for my 75. <OK> I really appreciate the quick response (by Scott I think???...sorry I can't find the response!). <probably... he answers a lot of mail around here. Of course... that's because we have duct taped to a chair, make him answer e-mail all day and feed him applesauce with a slingshot> However the response has as usual......generated another question. In the one of the sections on WWM it says that anemones are very hardy, adjust well to captivity..... <you've misread or there is an error that we need to correct. We'd almost never make such a blanket statement about any group of animals as a whole. Its not realistic or our style. Its also very not true in this case. Case in point... from the index page of "Anemones": ["As faithful followers of my unending scribblings will testify, I will not abide nefarious practices in the aquatics trades and, unfortunately, dear reader, anemones are a "guilty" area. Most anemones die quickly in the hobbyists care were doomed through mis-collection or rough handling in-between their purchase."]> and then the answer to my question said that there has been little success in keeping them and that I'd essentially be wasting a natural resource. <BINGO. The are a few anemones that can be kept very well (for collection reasons and then husbandry challenges listed below)... but most die within weeks/months of import. Very few every live to see a year. Wild populations suffer terribly for it because of their generally low reproductive rate and longevity (the anemones you buy are likely decades old!). Most aquarists sadly and dreadfully feel tempted to mix another anemone or stinging coral in with them (rarely possible for long term success... these stinging Cnids are motile and eventually fall prey to the many perils in such a reef tank)... most aquarists also don't want to invest in the hardcore reef light they need (anemones are more demanding than most coral), they also don't get fed enough or are fed chunks that are too large (fine minced meats only for most)> I'm not saying I know either one to be true, but can somebody clear this up for me? <sure... if you would like an anemone... Find a good brown sebae, cultured rose coral... or perhaps a dark colored long-tentacle. Keep it in a species tank only... and try to resist putting clownfish in... at least for some months> Of course I do not want to destroy a precious resource and if I do this I will certainly look for a captive raised one......I promise. <awesome! The cloned rose anemones are excellent and are exceptions to some of the above limitations> That being said. What is a good example of a captive raised anemone that could "possibly" accept my maroon clown? <ughh... Maroons sure are sure are hard on anemones even for a clown. Still... stick with a rose anemone (large anemone, tiny clown please). <resigned> :)> Please be aware that I am upgrading to a power compact light before I do this. Thank you gentlemen. Rick <Rick... I fear that even PC on your 75 will not be enough for most anemones. You will be obligated to try to keep the anemone in the top 12" of water with any fluorescents. A much better upgrade for this anemone would be halides. Nothing too exorbitant either. 2- 150 watt double ended HQIs would be magnificent (6500-10K). Best regards, Anthony> Lighting For Anemone Hi, <Hello! Scott F here today> I was wondering if you could help me with a question I have been wondering. I have a 25 gallon aquarium (24L x 12W X 20H). It has an eclipse 2 hood that has been modified with 2 X 36 watt pc lights. I was wondering if this would be enough light to host a bubble tip anemone? <I think that it would work in a shallow tank such as this. If you could squeeze one more bulb in there, that would be better> If not, how much more would you suggest? Also what combination of lights would you suggest, 2 daylight, or one daylight and one actinic. I'd go one-to-one daylight to actinic, but if you squeeze in one more bulb, I'd make it an actinic.> I also understand that color of the anemone might play a role in it's lighting requirements. Would I be better off to go with one of the lighter green varieties or with a darker rose colored individual? <I'd go with the darker-colored variety, myself> Thank you so much for your help. Great job in putting an informative website together too by the way, I have learned a lot from you already. Thank you. Nathan Turner <Glad to hear that, Nathan! I learn new stuff everyday, too. What a cool hobby! Take care! Scott F> - Condylactis Lighting - Hi guys. <Hello, JasonC here...> The LFS (usually pretty trustworthy) told me that Condys don't need intense lighting. <I'm not sure I agree with that at all. The Condylactis are as photosynthetic as any other anemone. They keep theirs in one of those shelf systems on the bottom shelf....it's almost dark in there!! <Well, they have the advantage that they can replace that anemone when it craps out, giving the illusion that it's lived there for a long time. I would be willing to bet that they kill one a couple of times a year.> Also, they told me that you can only count on Maroon Clowns to pair up with them. <I doubt that... Condylactis anemones hail from the tropical Atlantic and Maroon Clowns are Pacific in origin, although Condylactis anemones do show up in the Pacific.> I thought that ALL anemones required tons of experience and tons of light... what's the deal with my LFS? <Who knows... do read up on the Condylactis here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/twaanemones.htm > Matt <Cheers, J -- > Re: anemone lighting thanks man , I appreciate your honesty, I am gonna probably get a custom sea life power compact and add it to what I have. That should be enough. 2 * 96 watts. And the two other bulbs I will use to make my tank the color I like it. <excellent, my friend! Thank you for understanding and caring. We can't have too many hobbyists like that :) Agreed on the new lights and the use of the old. Best regards, Anthony> Anemone keeping by candle light I have a 55 gallon salt tank with some fish, live rock and one bubble anemone. I have at this time only two 48 inch bulbs 40 watts each one actinic one white as well as another 36 inch actinic all mounted on the canopy, the anemone seems fine. <ughhh... "seems fine"... relative to what? <G> Still alive... heehee... half seriously here, your statement to me is an acknowledgement of the inferior if even possible environment for this animal (80 watts of daylight over a 20" deep tank for any anemone species)> I have a mortgage and just cannot spend 300 more dollars on a pc light will two more forty watt ro bulbs, for a total of 160 watts be enough for a anemone. <its a tough question you ask. My ultimate advice is to trade away the anemone for a hopefully better chance at captive survival. Instead, get a large Corallimorph (like elephant ear Amplexidiscus) which is very anemone-like, tolerates lower light, feeds easier and heavier, and doesn't move around the tank at all. If you just keep this anemone, more light and placement in the top 8-10" of water will be necessary here under Normal output power lights.> Again he seems fine now but I am wondering. Maybe adding two VHO in combination with the other or one pc light please let me know Frank <the problem with any fluorescents is that they do not penetrate water at depth very well. Your tank is deep enough that fluorescents over any motile anemone is a bad idea in the long run (any number of bulbs, mind you... because even 1000 watts of fluorescent still fail to penetrate at depth... there is no piggy backing of light here <G>). Even under 160 watts of NO light, I strongly suspect that this anemone will not live to see another year let alone 2 years or a natural lifespan of decades. No crime here, my friend... you simply do not have the means for this anemone at this time... please do spare it. Best regards, Anthony> Lighting for Anemone.... Hey Crew, How's it going? Hope everyone is getting stuffed this T-day! <I don't think I will be able to eat at all today!> I have a question about lighting. I'm receiving a 55 gallon tank as an early Christmas gift. I'm hopping to make it into a Clownfish/Anemone only tank with live rock. I have only the tank and stand. I'm wondering what to do for lighting. I know anemones need a lot of light. I'm thinking of MH's. <Not needed for this size tank.> Would a single 175 watt bulb be enough? <It would be too concentrated.> And what do you think is better for the first-time anemone keeper the BTA or Sebae? <BTA> Any help you could provide would be great. <I would use VHO or PC lights for a BTA. You should be able to extrapolate an appropriate amount of light from this article http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/bubbletipanemones.htm> And give Bob my thanks for posting my paper. Phil <Thank you for writing it, http://www.wetwebmedia.com/sharkslvgrm.htm. -Steven Pro> Illuminating questions about Anemone Lighting Hi there again.. Don't know what I would do without your website! I have a 20gal hex (standard fluorescent light from LFS) with a UGF, powerhead and BioWheel. Water chemistry is within normal ranges and I would like to purchase an anemone with a couple of clowns. First of all, what is a good, hardy "beginner" anemone that is compatible with False Percula Clowns and second, is my lighting sufficient to make him happy? Thanks bunches. Maureen <Hi Maureen, You don't have a system suitable for keeping anemones. Anemones require well established marine systems with protein skimmers, aragonite sand beds to live in for some varieties, live rock to live in/on for others. Most require high intensity lighting and associated fan cooling for the hood. Feeding of anemones mandates efficient protein skimming/filtration and sufficient volume, upwards of 40-55 gallons. You can however keep a couple small clownfish in your 20 gallon quite happily. They don't need an anemone to be happy and many disappoint their new owners by not adopting an anemone. Sadly, the success rate with anemones is dismal, most lasting less than a month due to collection, shipping handling stress. The best are bubble tip clones, but these are beyond your current system. Perhaps look into some nice mushrooms or other low light corals for your tank. Thank you for asking the right questions!!! Craig> Lighting options Good evening, Bob Steve and Anthony and everyone else, <cheers> I am starting my second tank (30g long) and I am wondering what type of lights would you suggest for anemones. <that would depend on what anemone you pick. Each has a different need. Ritteri and Carpet will require the brightest... but both will grow too large for this tank and cannot be kept here. Bubble tip is hardy but will also require bright light. Brown sebae/malu is likely your best bet... stays small and does not require bright light> I have read most of your info but I am now confused. Is MH too much light for a tank this small? <again... it depends on the anemone you pick. There should be no confusion here. A shady fern and a desert palm tree require two very different light intensities even though both are plants. And so it is for different species of anemones> Will the anemone live well in a tank this size? <which species?> If not what type of light is appropriate for a FOWLR? Would you suggest a combination of MH and pc? <150-200 watt of PC light would be very nice for most anemones that are hardy and appropriate. Have you read here?: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm best regards, Anthony> Lighting Hi! I am in the process of setting up a standard size 90 gallon saltwater tank. I plan on housing fish, LR, some inverts, but what I would really enjoy is eventually having an anemone/clownfish combo. I'm looking at power compact lighting. This is what I had in mind: 4-96 watt (2 10,000 K ultra daylight and 2 ultra actinic blue). Is this arrangement sufficient for an anemone or it is overkill? <I think this is sufficient for a bubble tip anemone, E. quadricolor and definitely not overkill.> Also, would you suggest a different combination of bulbs with this setup? <It sounds ok to me, but I like a lot of actinic. Perhaps 3 to 1 full spectrum to actinic.> Thanks for your advice and I'm sure we will be speaking again. By the way, great book and website. I have learned so much, although not nearly enough. Ben <None of us have. We are all learning everyday. -Steven Pro> Anemone Lighting I have a question regarding a tank and proper lighting for an anemone. I have a regular cover with 30 watt bulb. Can I use it <One 30 watt lamp will not permit you to keep any photosynthetic animal alive.> and tell me what I can do? <You need to upgrade you lighting to do anything. Please peruse the vast resources we have available, for free to all, at www.WetWebMedia.com -Steven Pro> lighting for H. magnifica anemones Hello! I've got a question about lighting my cube tank (27.5") in which I want to keep some clownfish and anemones (Heteractis magnifica). <Yes, I remember.> Now, I have 150 watt HQI 10,000 K made by Aqualine (Aqua-Medic after fusion) and some 20 watt actinic 03 made by Philips. <Ok> I've got a feeling that it wouldn't be enough light for anemones and I think I should upgrade. <It would be plenty for some anemones, but I think you are at the low end for H. Magnifica.> I'm thinking of adding 150 or 70 W of Aqualine 20,000 K and do my light cycle following: first starts 20 or 40 watts of TL 03 (last 12 hours), after 2 hours start 20,000 K and last for 10 hours and 10,000 K (150 watt) last 8 hours. What is your opinion about my plan? <It sounds fine.> Should I buy 20,000 K (what's the different between this and 10000K for anemones) <If you add a second lamp, I would use another 10,000 K.> or maybe I should stay with my 150 watt 10,000 K and TL03 (if so how many watts should I add to my 150 watt HQI) and don't spend money. <My concern for your anemone in the previous emails has centered around the tank's depth. I believe this anemone can and will survive under this lighting if it climbs and stays in the top half of the aquarium. To be sure you are getting the best light output from your fixture, do be sure not to use a glass canopy. These block out light. If you are concerned about fish jumping, please find and use some eggcrate. This is what we in the US hobby call it. It is found at most any hardware store. It's real purpose is for diffusing light on overhead fluorescent fixtures. It comes in sheets that measure about 2 feet by 4 feet. I would also urge you to purchase a few good books on anemones. Dr. Ron Shimek wrote a small pamphlet called "Host Anemone Secrets." it is really pretty good and he has good experience with H. magnifica getting his to spawn.> Best regards, Darek <Good luck! -Steven Pro> Anemone Lighting <Hello! Darek> Would it be ok if I had a 150W HQI for an anemone? best regards, Darek <It really depends on your tank, the anemone you want to keep, etc. There are many factors. Please go to this web page and associated links to find out what you will need. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemonelightngfaqs.htm This should help! Craig> question on anemone hey its me again. <<Hi Jerry>> I got a shop light double with 70 watt ballast these where cheep 6.00 bucks and then I went to LFS and bought 70 watt sun and 30 watt actinic its a cheap way to light an anemone tank right JM <<Okay Jerry, you aren't hearing me. There is no really cheap way to do this. Please go to this page and read the FAQ's from people who have the same question as you and read the answers. I will be as blunt and clear as possible, YOU NEED MORE INTENSE LIGHT. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemonelightngfaqs.htm I hope this will help you. Craig>> question on Condy anemone Hi I have a Condy anemone pink
about 7 inches in diameter I dripped lined him for 4 hours and
introduced him in the tank with the lights out when I woke up I found
him in a different spot and he anchored with his foot I heard these are
easy anemones and cheap too my question is what do they eat and what
kind of lighting and water movement do they need also I feed him omega
one fish flakes which he greedily eats will that be ok to feed him I
also have a 30 watt sun light and 15 watt actinic on a 30 long is this
enough lighting where he anchored his self is just below the water line
and he look healthy Thanks A lot JM <Ahh, a common
error....inexpensive up front but very demanding. Your lighting is
insufficient, you need somewhere in the 3-5 watt per gallon area of
high intensity lighting. Either MH, VHO or PC. Feed marine meats
(shrimp, silversides, clam, scallop, etc.) every other day and moderate
current to gently move the tentacles. Being at the top of the water is
because light is far too weak. Please shield powerheads, they are
deadly to anemones, especially Condy's on the move. Please start
with
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm and follow the links from there.> Good luck, |
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