New Print and eBook on Amazon:   Anemone Success Doing what it takes to keep Anemones healthy long-term by Robert (Bob) Fenner

LTA deflated Tentacles / Cyano Problems  11/7/05 Good Afternoon, I have a couple of questions regarding my 55g reef. I believe I may have a problem with my tank as I am experiencing some Cyano problems. Currently my water parameters are as follows: Salinity 1.026 pH 8.2 Ammonia .5 -1 <Trouble> Nitrite 0 Nitrate 0 Phosphate 0 KH 10 My anemone will open it's mouth everyday expelling a slimy substance and it's tentacles are deflated. <A good clue... something is amiss> It seems to almost flip inside out almost everyday. I know an anemone in general is hard to keep, but it was fine for the first two months with the water chemistry not changing much. My maxima clam and pipe organs are doing just fine though. Everything else in the tank is fine except a yellow tang that has died recently from unknown causes, my best guess is starvation as the seaweed I've been trying to feed her is getting taken away by my Clarkii clown. I actually only have about 25lbs of live rock and 15lbs what was sold as live rock but seemed like base rock. So if I count them, it'll be 40lbs which is probably too little for a reef tank. <Is fine for this size, shape, type system> I also have about 30lbs of Lava Rock <This may be problematical... I would at least have the water tested for iron content> I hope will eventually become "live." Should I buy more live rock? <Would help, yes> And if so, where can I purchase it at your site? <Mmm, we don't sell anything (other than the books, pix we produce...)> Here is my tank set up. Standard 55 gallon 80lb live sand 260w power compacts with 130w 10,000k and 130w actinic Tidepool I Mag Drive 7 AquaC Urchin with Maxijet And its inhabitants: 2 Damsels Clarkii Clownfish Fire Shrimp 3 peppermint shrimps 2 conch 1 brittle star 15 blue leg hermits 10 red leg hermits 15 Astrea snails 2 emerald crabs bubble coral Maxima Clam Pipe Organ LTA Rusty gorgonian Various feather dusters Thanks for all your help! <I would keep an eye on the anemone, be ready to siphon/vac it out if/when it dies... something is awry in your system chemically... I would remove the lava rock precautionarily (is this a word?),  <<Not that I can find (other than a specific use in translated online Islamic texts), but we get your meaning.  Marina>> and look into adding some new LR to replace it. Bob Fenner> 

Long Tentacle Tangled Anemone 10/11/05 Greetings and thank you for such a great site! <Hello, and thank you for the kind words.> I purchased 1 LT anemone a few days ago and have been very concerned with its health. Several of the little critter's tentacles appear to be tangled within one another. Imagine long clown balloons used for making balloon animals. The poor little tentacles seem to be tied up in this very fashion! I have observed 2 separate spots involving about 4 tentacles each. It almost seems like there is some fiber constricting these little clusters! <It may appear to be tangled but I can assure you that this is not a problem. They will never be sticking up from the base at a 90 degree angle swaying in perfect unison as a popular cartoon would suggest.> Additionally, it seems to have a difficult time staying "stuck" in its spot.  <Anemones often have trouble adjusting to captive environments. It may still be finding the spot it wants.>  It will appear to be stuck into the crushed coral only to roll over a few hours later and then recover once again. Should I  attempt to move it to a rock for better "hold" and/or lighting?  <No you can damage it in this way, furthermore the Long Tentacle Anemone is properly placed in the sand bed and not the rock work.>  Its mouth is closed and it tentacles are inflated (save the "tangled" ones).  I have a 55 G tank w/ 55 pounds of live rock Emperor 400 and Aqua Clear 70 Berlin Air Lift skimmer <You may want to upgrade this eventually, if its working out and you have no nutrient problems then disregard this.> Two 65 watt 10,000K and two 65 watt True Actinic compact fluorescent Lamps <These may be inadequate for the anemone, monitor it for signs of bleaching and be sure to feed it once per week.> All test show levels at 0 (Ammonia, Nitrate, Nitrite) pH hovering at 8.1-8.2 Any help you could give me is much appreciated. <Read here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/macrodoreensis.htm, and read the linked FAQ’s as well.> Brooke <Adam J.> 

LTA behavior okay  10/3/05 Hello! Thanks for the help with the lighting. <You're welcome> I had a quick question. I recently got an LTA about 5 days ago and it has been moving around the tank a little bit but it keeps going over to a piece of my live rock and turning on its side and putting its tentacles in it. Is this behavior normal? Should I be concerned it really hasn't found a spot yet? Again thank you for your help. <Should have found a "home" by now but wait a few more days, see what happens.  Google search "LTA" on the wet web media for FAQ's of a similar nature.  James (Salty Dog)>

Re: LTA help- Anemone Systems, Improper Confines  9/23/05 Thanks for the help, Adam <Anytime.> Just an update, I added another more powerful powerhead, and the lights have arrived. <Awesome.> I now have 280w total (220w of it is VHO and a mix of Whites and blues) >5w per gallon and my water flow look fairly strong now.  Should this meet the requirements with the LTA in the 55 gal? <For now, its definitely an improvement, more intense lighting would make it easier on you, just be sure to target feed as I mentioned earlier and watch for signs of bleaching.>   I will say that both still have excellent color and are full and open now, but only one is hiding its foot, the other has yet to attach or hide. <It may still be trying to find a “comfort” zone.> Thanks again, Bryan Next step 150 Gallons <Oh yes the bigger the better, Adam J.>

Lighting Anemones  9/23/05 Hey guys, Bryan here again. <Hey Bryan-Scott F. with you!> I have read and read and read and keep finding different levels required for lighting 55 gal with 2 LTA's (beautiful, I might add, and the Clarkii has claimed them both)  I have been told that I don't have enough.  I have 2 - 110w VHO Actinic lights, one is blue and the other is white.  That puts me a 4w per gallon; I do have the equipment to add an additional 60w of light (30w Blue and 30w full spec). That would put me just over 5w/gal.  Should I add these lights, and is that sufficient enough? <I've always tried to avoid "watts per gallon" measurements, but it sounds like you're on the right track here. My thoughts on lighting anemones are short and sweet- As much lighting as you can offer! Obviously, the other aspects of husbandry, such as water quality, etc. are important, too.> Also, one last question, should I worry about a little string matter than comes from the foot of the anemones. <I would not be overly concerned, unless there are large quantities of this stuff and the animal appears otherwise declining. This is probably just some mucus from the attachment point of the anemone and is nothing to be overly concerned with.> Thanks, Bryan <My pleasure! Regards, Scott F.>

More Anemone Woes…  9/23/05 <Adam J here.> Bryan here and I must first say that this is the best informative website I have found on marine life, keep it up you guys are the best! <Yeah I like this place too.> My question is about 2 LTA's I have in my 55gal, these are the only two inverts in the tank and not sure exactly how there health is.  First tank conditions Ammonia-0 Nitrite-0 Nitrate-12 <Try getting this as close to zero as possible, increasing the frequency of water changes is the easiest way.> Ph-8.5 Salinity-1.022 Temp-77 Substrate-crushed coral Seaclone 100 skimmer 330 BioWheel Maxijet 900 powerhead <You may want to add a few more of these.> Lighting- 2ea 15w Actinic 03 blue, 2ea 15w Actinic full spectrum lights (I hope tomorrow I will be adding 1 ea 110w Actinic 03 blue light and 1 ea Aquasun 110w white light (both are VHO bulbs) <More lighting is definitely needed, as the current scheme is highly insufficient for the anemones, if they continue to be subjected to this they will meet a quick demise, so yes please upgrade.> 40lbs live rock (just coming to life, started them as base rock, but have awesome coralline growing now) 15 hermits 1-Clarkii, 1-yellowtail damsel, 1-purple Anthias, and 1-yellow tang (very small and will move as he get older) <Glad to hear it.> Anyhow, the blue LTA I placed in the middle of the tank on a rock, overnight it move down the rock to a spot in between three rocks where there is water flow, but not very strong and not in the brightness area of the tank (can't see if it foot is buried or not).  This does puzzled me because right now lighting levels is not where it needs to be. <Not really puzzling at all, the anemone is doing what comes naturally, moving to the substrate in which it can hide its “foot.”> The Clarkii has taken to it very well, in fact, unless he is coming out of the LTA at night he has not come out for 2 days, not even to eat. <You can use a turkey-baster to direct food to him.> The colors look fine, but is there a chance it's dying? <Without food and light….yes it will eventually die.>   I am not sure it is eating since the Clarkii will not leave. I started feeding it ChromaPlex and also use iodine supplements. <I would use “heavier” meats of a marine origin, (i.e. squid and krill).> On to the green/purple LTA, from the time I put this one in, it went from being 4" to pretty much closing up.  I can't tell if it is moving or if it is just the current pushing it around.  I gave it a little help by placing next to two rocks, but still nothing, just laying on the bottom on it's side.   <Not a good sign.> Until my slow shipment of lighting arrives which was suppose to be here before the LTA's, I have place a Halogen light next to the tank shining in LTA direction, is this a bad idea?    <Better than nothing.> I also notice that it's mouth stays open for extended periods of time, and occasionally the base inflates for awhile than deflates.  What is going on with this LTA? <Likely in a slow demise at the moment.> Should I move the LTA to a hospital tank where I can provide 3-4w per gal? Until my other fixtures arrive? <Moving the animal may further stress it, leave it be for now.> Also the foot on both LTA's look fine when placed in the tank and still do (bright orange/red).  Should I be worried? <Well to be honest these anemones rarely acclimate and thrive in captivity, for the average hobbyist I rarely see them live longer than 2-3 months, they do best in shallow tanks with a DSB in which to bury their foot.  They also prefer “intense” lighting. To give them the best chance, keep water quality pristine and target feed 1-2 times weekly.  Furthermore having two in a 55 gallon is not a good idea, I have seen up to 30” in diameter. Please read in the LTA FAQ’s for more detail http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ltafaqs.htm .> Thanks Bryan <Adam J.>

LTA question 8/5/05 Hey guys,        Love the site!!! quick question.....I have been feeding my LTA krill for the past week now. He seems to like it and eat it every time. I was wondering what else I should feed him and how often. Also, my Clown mated pair (Percula) has been swimming in the corner of my take since I got them (1 week ago). I know about the flashlight trick, but I have a green frogspawn and the LTA, are there any other ways I can get these two to host one of these. Please let me know if you can. Jeromy <This is all posted on WWM... go, read there. Bob Fenner>

Anemone question! 7/24/05 Greetings -- seems like there's a ton of people asking questions about anemones.  I'm now one of them! <People usually house them inappropriately (i.e.. keeping them in reef tanks) so they tend to have a lot of problems with them> I picked up a long tentacle from the local fish store about two weeks ago.  He's huge, and has looked great in the tank.  I fed him a small bit of krill -- under 1/4", from what I've read on the site.  I feed him generally every four days. <Sounds good>   Anyway, when I went to work this morning I noticed he looked a little smaller, but not a big deal.  When I got home, he looked completely dead; no water in tentacles at all, wasn't gripping the rock anymore (had fallen over on its side), etc.  Huge red base was just sitting out in the open.  The mouth wasn't open though.  I checked water parameters and things looked fine (temperature holds steady at 80-82 degrees in the tank all day.  The LFS was closed at this point so I figured I'd have to wait until tomorrow.  I went out to the store and came back and noticed its mouth was now open basically all the way, and that it looks like it spit something out... a brownish substance.  I've propped him up between a bunch of rocks, and dug a hole in the sand for him so that he'll stand up... but I don't know what else to do.  It keeps trying to stand up; some of the tentacles will inflate, and it'll rise up several inches from the base, then fall back down again.  If I prop it back up between rocks, it repeats the cycle and just gets taller and taller until it flops over again. <Sounds like it's on the verge of death, sorry to say> I have no other anemones, and the tank has been running for about a year and a half.  None of the fish are picking at it that I've seen.  I have a leather coral on the other side of the tank that appears to still be doing well.  The tank is a 36g bowfront.  I don't have a protein skimmer.  Lighting is 130W PC (one true actinic). <You have nowhere near enough lighting.  Next time, ask questions first, purchase second> Any clues?  I know it's hard to explain without pictures and without being here to see it, but I just find it weird that it would have died that quickly. <I don't.  Improper collection, improper acclimation, stress, low energy reserves, combined with poor lighting>   I just checked my water parameters again; the water doesn't smell but my alkalinity and nitrates are way above normal (pH 7.8, alkalinity 260, nitrites < 0.5 ppm, nitrates 100 ppm). <Well that explains the death right there.  Horrible water quality - your pH should be ~8.2+ at night, nitrites should be 0, nitrates should be less than 5ppm measured as nitrate ion>   I'm going to do a water change tomorrow and see if that cures those problems (can't do it tonight, no supplies, it's midnight). <Please do, and please read further about the husbandry of marine aquariums.  Look into your filtration/water circulation> Thanks <No problem.  With proper conditions, anemones can outlive their owners, but those conditions do need to be met.  A few weeks of diligent reading should ready you, and give you time to get your tank in order> - Will <M. Maddox>

Dyed long tentacle 6/31/05 I was just at my LFS and I saw a long tentacle anemone that was a deep purple. Do you think there is a high possibility of it being dyed? the worker at the LFS said he wanted it......I was about to say you're selling a dyed anemone for a higher price than the healthy ones! how dumb are you?... I would appreciate your opinion. Thanks a lot- Aaron <Could be dyed... but there are LTAs that are this color naturally. Bob Fenner>

Long tentacle anemone who isn't happy Hello and thanks for the great info on your web site. I have an LTA who has been in my 38 gallon reef tank for 2 months. Initially, when I introduced it, it took over a week to settle in and bury its foot. Since then it has been healthy, eating small pieces of frozen (thawed) shrimp, and interacting well with my tomato clown fish. About a week ago its tentacles retracted and it has almost buried itself in the substrate in a small cave area under a piece of live rock. It is mostly in the shade and does not open up much during the day, but closes entirely during the night. Its tentacles have been almost gone for about 1 week now and I am very concerned for its health. <You should be> I know that my tank is small for an anemone, but my water quality is good: Nitrates and nitrites are 0, phosphates are 0.25 to 0, calcium is 380, pH is 8.3-8.4, and I have 110 W PC lighting and 60 W NO fluorescent lighting. Is there anything I can do to help my anemone? Thanks so much. Kevin England <Take the long read through our coverage on this and other large anemone's use in aquariums... Much could be amiss here... for instance, a mis-mix with other cnidarians... Bob Fenner>

Lighting An LTA - 06/08/05 I recently (about 3 weeks ago) purchased a Long Tentacle Anemone. My tank is only 18 inches deep and the anemone is 4-5 inches off the bottom of the tank.  I hear that these anemones take SO MUCH light. <<For long-term care/good health, yes.>> Well I feed mine twice a week with Selcon soaked raw shrimp chunks, and he's doing awesome. <<Good to hear, though the anemone will appreciate/feed better on fine minced pieces rather than "chunks.">> I got him in the tank and stuck it into a hole I thought suitable and within the next day it was anchored and fully expanded to twice his LFS size.  I also noticed that he was a fluorescent green color under my lights, and under LFS lights it was dull brown.  My question is should I move it up higher or leave it where it is comfortable?  It is under one 65-daylight PC and one 55-actinic PC. <<Do consider the reason the anemone is making itself bigger is because it is trying to "get what it can't" from an inadequate light source.  Not saying this is definitely the case, but I would recommend switching out the actinic bulb for another daylight bulb, or better yet ADD another daylight bulb.  And I would not try to move the anemone...too easy to cause damage.  As a motile invertebrate it will find its own place.>> Also would this anemone co-exist with frogspawn coral (without of reach of the frogspawns runners of course)? or would a chemical battle be under way? <<Chemical aggression is always an issue...as is physical contact when/if the anemone decides to relocate.  Anemones are best kept/cared for in specie specific tanks.  And unless the tank is very large (hundreds of gallons, and even then not always so), only one to a tank please.  Consider having a look here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ltafaqs.htm and at the associated links in blue.>> <<Regards, Eric R.>>

Long Tentacled Anemone/s I have two long tentacled anemone, one which has settled in nicely. The other though is puzzling. I turned off one of my powerheads (2 in a 45 gal tank). The anemone shriveled up and my husband said it was dying. I turned on the powerhead again and it came back to life. I guess it prefers the powerhead.  Today I added some items to the tank, 5 shaving brushes, one coral beauty two horseshoe crabs (very small) and two curly q anemones, and a pencil urchin.  <Trouble... anemones are not easily kept in home-hobbyist settings... two LTA's are not compatible... mixing in the other species, disastrous> Now the anemone that played dead the other day is just floating around the tank. I have tried to get it settled, but it refuses to attach to anything and keeps floating around. It looks to be in good health, the tentacles are full with purple tips. Any ideas?  <Plenty. The U.S. should stop invading sovereign nations and realize that commerce is "king", people should turn off their teevees and exercise a great deal more. Oh, you mean re your circumstances? Yes, read... on WWM re Anemones, their systems, compatibility. Start here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/index.htm.  Read, act, now! Bob Fenner> <<Time for an editorial page!>><Heeeee! RMF>
Re: Long Tentacled Anemone/s I moved the curly q anemones and the long tentacled anemone settled down on the tank floor once again and has blossomed. I guess it just didn't like the new anemones. If push comes to shove, I'll move some to another tank. Thanks for your help. <Sounds good> By the way, I cannot do without CSI in any of its forms or Law and Order.  <Am changing my name to Bob Bruckheimer> Other than that the TV can sit dormant. As for attacking other nations, well, someone has to play nice and since people are too stupid to do that, well, the bigger of them has to be the peacemaker.. . . . <You will never make people free, create peace by murdering peoples families and children. Bob Fenner> 

Evolution, the Conversation Evolves Ok, phasing from politics to religion. . . . .people will never be free, from the beginning some were not free. <Define "freedom"> And, since we are in the last "days", these things must happen. We (Christians) know this and are ok with it. After all, it has been decided. . . by a higher power than any of us here on earth. So get on the ride, strap yourself in, and get ready, it's going to be a bumpy one!  <Heeee Heeee! I put invisible friends like the Easter Bunny and Santy Claus in the same box. Good luck, life to you. BobF> 

Long Tentacle Anemone/Not Attaching Hello WWM Crew, <Yo!> I love your website. I have and continue to learn more and more about my marine ecosystem. Thank you! I have a 120g set up with 2 perc clowns, 2 fire fish, royal Gramma, and three anemones. My Long tentacle anemone I have had for about 3 months and he has never attached himself. <Not a good indication... very likely resultant from an injury to the "foot" during extraction/collection> Occasionally he will float with the current get wedged somewhere, then in about 2 weeks do it again. He eats great (I feed them all shrimp 2-3 times a week) and appear to be good in color and activity. Should I attempt to get it to stay put in one spot. My fear is that we will bang heads (tentacles) with my bulb or magnif anemone....What should I do? <Mmm, I would try to settle the animal in a spot it is likely to adhere to... rather than risk it being blown about, perhaps on to another organism, or against a pump intake. Bob Fenner>

Question about LTA success in Natural Reef System w/Skimming Hi there, this is my first e-mail to WWM, but I read all the time and love the site. I have one of those questions that feels like the answer is an obvious yes, but my confidence is really low right now. My tank is about 18 months new and I just spent the last 6 fighting off a morale destroying hair algae bloom that resulted in a lot of damage.  So here is the setup. 105G tall tank with a 30" stretch to the 4" sand bed. I am using 2X400W 20K MH bulbs with 2X96W 420nm PCs to give me a little dawn dusk action.  My reef's chemistry is back to where it was before the bloom, 1.026 SG, no nitrate, phosphate, etc. I keep the temp stable at 78 degrees as well. The reef has about 200lbs of live rock and there is a 30G fuge tied in. I am pretty much a "natural reef" system with skimmer. Anyhow I really want to get an LTA and some clowns for this tank, but before I do I was just curious what you guys thought about this setup and its chances to thrive under these conditions. Thanks for the help, Jeff <Your system sounds fine to ideal... the most difficult step you are now faced with is securing an initially healthy specimen. Bob Fenner>
One last LTA question           Hi Bob,             I wrote you the other day concerned about my abilities to keep an LTA after surviving a horrible hair algae bloom, etc. etc..  Your final response was in regards to finding a good LTA.  I ordered a beautiful purple one from Dr. Mac and Sons and it appears to be doing quite well in my tank, aside from the fact that it will not put its foot down.  I aqua scaped around the LTA to keep it from being blown around and I think the foot has attached to a bit of rock now.  My question is in regards to the attachment. In all my research I find that they bury the foot in the sand, but do they live happily with it attached to rock as well? <This species sometimes attaches to rock under the (apparent) sand, but is indeed found in sandy substrates, often with nothing else> Anyhow, thanks for your reassurances the other day, it definitely got me motivated.  Anyhow, it's an amazing LTA.  I'm sure you have seen them all, but if you want a pic I'll gladly send you one. <Please do send along if you have>              Thanks again,             Jeff <Bob Fenner>
Re: One last LTA question Hi Bob, <Howdy> Things are going smooth with the new LTA.  I have a link to a pic I posted on the net for you if your interested. http://www.aquariumadvice.com/download.php?id=13055 Its been pretty exciting around the house.  I had a 30G oceanic cube at my office that is 3 months cycled but has no life in it.  I found it's too hard to take care of at work so I just moved it home and tied it into my 105G oceanic.  I can tell that all my livestock is really digging the 25% boost in volume. <Good>   I am not sure if your familiar with Bob from EBay, he sells a live detritivore kit for new tanks.  Anyhow it's a huge deal, I have bought two from him and the 30G was seeded with one so now its like I have two fuges on the system.  Hope things are well with you, take care!   Oh, in case your curious here is a pic of my system with the 30G tied in (please excuse the mess and the cords everywhere, I haven't cleaned things up since the move). http://www.aquariumadvice.com/download.php?id=13172 Take care Bob! <Thank you for sharing. Cheers, Bob Fenner>

LTA & Lighting Hi Crew, I have a lighting question regarding a LTA that I transferred from QT 5 days ago. I have a 29 gallon tank with the following:  25lb of live rock w/ 3" DSB AquaC Remora hang-on protein skimmer, powered by Maxi-jet 1200 additional Maxi-jet 1200 for water circulation  Aquarium Systems Millennium 3000 filter for activated-carbon filtration Clark clownfish (paired with the LTA within twelve hours of introducing the anemone to the tank) Lawnmower blenny Royal Gramma Tank-bred Percula clownfish 3 peppermint shrimp Coral banded shrimp A dozen assorted snails and reef hermit crabs Sand-sifting star-fish (a mutant actually - it has six appendages!) Currently I have 130W of Coralife PC lighting (2 x 65W dual bulb 10,000K/actinic blue, situated 2.5" above water surface) and the LTA is situated approximately 8.5" below the water surface. My question then is this: Should I replace one (or both) of the PC bulbs with pure 10,000K bulbs instead of the 10,000K/actinic combination? Will that help improve light quality for the LTA? Also, I have both bulbs on separate timers... 1 bulb from 9am-midnight, and the other from noon-7pm. Is this an optimal photo-period?  <Chris, I have a Sebae Anemone in my 29 mini reef, and it seems to be doing fine with 2 65w PC's, one is dual daylight (10K and 6.7K) and one dual actinic (460nm/420nm). When it is time to change tubes I plan on going with two 10K's. I would leave both lights on for 10/12 hours for the LTA. James (Salty Dog)> Many thanks for running an excellent site!  <You're welcome> 

LTA symbiotic relationship question I have just witnessed my Long Tentacle Anemone doing something I didn't know they did. While it was lying on a Live rock, the center of it started to enlarge (around the mouth area, when it enlarged, it was white in color (mouth area) and it looked like it had opened its mouth and leaned over to the rock and out of it's mouth came a small creature ( about the size of a Japanese beetle but with a small tail and it was as if it had a curtain around it so you couldn't see legs. It slowly moved out of the mouth and crawled up on the live rock and went into a hole in the rock. The anemone slowly raised back up and shrank in size for bout an hour. Like it had a baby or something. I haven't seen the small creature since. The anemone seems to be doing fine though. I was wondering what your thoughts were? Saltwatered in PA <There are many commensal to mutualistic organisms that live in concert with these animals... you likely saw a crustacean one. Bob Fenner>

LT anemone following Ref. light? Hello. I've had a LTA in my tank for about three months now. He wandered a little in the first few days, but has essentially been in the same spot for the whole time. He has grown slightly larger. Last night just after the lights went out, he detached from his usual spot and floated up and over some rocks and slowly, over several hours made his way to the darkest corner of the tank. Do the prefer to move at night? <Usually not> The only thing I can think of that may be desirable about that place is that it is the closest part of that tank to the refugium. The refugium is beside and below the tank and it's light is on at night. <Ahh> Could the anemone be trying to reach this other light source. <Good speculation. This morning, he opened us as wide as his confined space would permit. He's getting very little light now. I wonder why he would look for a perch at night when he can't follow the brightest light. Will he have enough energy to find a decent spot tonight? Should I move him?  <Mmm, no... but maybe you should look into better lighting> He usually accepts and closes around any food that I feed him or that falls into his grasp. Should I try to feed him? <Yes... Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/anemonefdgfaqs.htm and the LTA FAQs (linked above)> He seems to like his base covered but obviously likes strong light and flow. Since these are fairly specific demands for my small ecosystem, I wonder is moving him might be the best thing to do. <Not a good idea... please read... if the animal wants... it will move itself...> My tank is 55g. I have a 192 Watt PC fixture that is half actinic and half 10K that stays on for 14 hours. I will be moving him to a new tank with better lighting in about 6 weeks. What should I do? Thanks, Justin <Wait for the month and a half, taking care that your LTA doesn't get sucked up against an intake... switching out one or both of the actinics if you have other lamps... Bob Fenner>

Anemone troubles, induced Hey Guys. <John> Just wondering if is possible to put a Long Tentacle Anemone in the same (30gal) tank as a Condylactis anemone? <Not a good idea> also, I was wondering why my LTA appears buried in the sand all day and then when the light go's out, he curls up and comes completely out so that you can see his orange base (foot?) and doesn't bury in the sand again until the light go's back on in the morning? <Trouble... Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/index.htm scroll down to the index on Anemones... READ> Thanks!   (how do I see a response to this email?) J.F. <We respond directly to all, as well as post on WWM. Bob Fenner>

- Long Tentacle Anemone Hiding - ok well I've had my LTA and he's been doing really great since the addition of a skimmer. he's been in my 25gal for 4 months with  1-96 watt quad SmartPaq (10k/460nm blue) lighting. <Would love to hear the story of how you upgraded the size of this tank...> I'm not worried about lighting being the problem but I think the schedule of when the turn off could have sent him into hiding. I recently switched my schedule form 10 hours a day to 8 because of some red slime algae I wished to cut back on. <Perhaps it is hiding because of the chemical changes brought on by the red algae... would propose you take more active steps to remove this stuff... please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/algaeconMar.htm > Maybe I should have eased into this change but lesson learned. What could be the reason why this anemone has chosen to be in a dark place? <Could be reasons other that what you think.> Why do they do this?? <Most often because they aren't truly happy with the current conditions, so they move in hope of finding conditions more favorable. Would encourage you to read all the LTA articles and FAQs on WetWebMedia to get a better understanding of these animals.> thank- Adam <Cheers, J -- >

- Long Tentacle Anemone Hiding, Follow-up - well it looked like I jumped the gun in thinking there was a problem. BTW it sounded like you were unhappy with the size of my tank??? <Not unhappy, per se... just would like to see you in something larger. In marine systems, stability comes with size... that is all.> the size of my tank ill have you know is not the problem. <If you say so.> but any who I forgot to mention that I had changed the position of my powerhead. my LTA was simply adjusting himself to a more comfortable spot. thanks any who <The IM language does not become you... Cheers, J -- >

LTA quarantine I have searched your info and can't seem to find quarantine procedure for anemones, if their is one. <Here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/anempt2.htm> I have bought a LTA and the LFS is holding it until I find out a correct quarantine procedure--I seem to know more about fish than the LFS if you catch my drift--which is scary.  I consistently quarantine my new fish and would like some help on this anemone.  Please advise.  Thanks <Bob Fenner>

LTA post feeding behavior   Hi Bob, <Adam here today, at your service.> I have an LTA. I have had it for a couple of weeks. My Tomatoes are very attached already and are loving it. Last night all of a sudden when the MH turned off, (The actinics then continue for one hour), decided to shrivel up 50% of his tentacles into thin horrible looking threads. I watched for 10 minutes and they returned back to normal. admittedly I just fed him a piece of fish! He looked fine for the rest of the night.  <Sounds completely normal to me.> This morning he looks a bit different. His entire base is stretched out flattish like leather and his tentacles do not look fully inflated even though they are not shriveled. His colour hasn't changed.  <Still sounds normal.  Many anemones close and re-open after feeding or disturbance and often take a couple of days before they look "normal" again.> My nitrates are around 20, KH 14, everything else good.  Any ideas? I doesn't seem right. What is the feeding regime best for an LTA?  Regard, Craig.  <I would try to track down the reason for the high nitrates (though 20 is not too big of a deal).  I generally suggest feeding a grape sized chunk of meaty food at least a couple of times a month, but not more than a couple times a week.  More feeding will lead to faster growth.  Best Regards.  AdamC.>

Long tentacled anemone Hi, sorry to bother you again, <Hi Heather, MacL with you today, and never a bother.  Personally I'd much rather you ask questions. Please accept my apologies for the delay but I've been at MACNA so a bit behind.> but you have been so much help in the past. I just brought a long tentacle anemone from my LFS. It looked great when I brought it, there was even a tomato with him in the tank all snuggled up:) I've had it for about a week and it started to close up and deflate some of it's tentacles. Is this normal? <Sounds like its digesting, But lets ask a few basic questions. Is it under actinic lighting spectrum meaning actinics or metal halides? If it isn't it won't flourish I'm afraid.>  It hasn't moved all that much and my 2 false percula's took to it within hours which I've read is a good sign. Also what should I feed it. The LFS said to feed it pieces of shrimp, but it doesn't seem to want to eat it even though I stick it in the tentacle. <It will just want a piece of shrimp ever couple of days or so. It can also grab little pieces of brine shrimp or Mysis.>  It holds on to it for a while and then my shrimp come and take it away. What should I do. I don't want it to die, it's my first one. Any help would be really appreciated. <Sounds like you need to find a way to keep the shrimp away while its eating, perhaps with a net?  Good luck, MacL>

Long Tentacle Anemone Hello <Hi Dave, MacL here> I just put a long tentacle anemone and a gold banded maroon clown that loves his partner. <Sounds nice> A couple of questions... First the anemone attached to my live rock but sideways ( horizontally). <That's normal, he's found a water current he's enjoying> Second should I feed him separately with chunks of brine?  <He does need to be fed, not necessarily with brine but the clown will also feed him. I would ask you about lighting and tank size but I see you've sent another letter and will address it more there> Thanks for your time Dave
Re: Long Tentacle Anemone <hi again Dave> sorry I also was wondering--- I have a 29 gal. tank with fluor 20 watt.<I have to be honest with you and tell you that I don't think that's sufficient lighting for a long tentacled anemone.>  My long tentacle anemone is at the upper half of tank. <Reaching for the light> Is that ok for lighting? <Let me point you at www//http://www.wetwebmedia.com/macrodoreensis.htm, for a couple of great articles and some material about the long tentacled anemone.>

Long Tentacle Anemone question 2/26/04 Hi,  We bought a LTA just a few days ago, it seems to like it spot that we placed it in the aquarium. My question is that every once in a while the tentacles will turn purplish and it will curl itself up into a ball. Is it eating, are the conditions wrong for it? <I don't know, what are the conditions?  High light (at least mod metal halide), moderate current and placement on sand or sand/rock interface is appropriate.  Salinity should be 1.025.> I read two different books and the have a difference in water temp. one says 71 degrees another says no lower than 77 degrees. <Hmmm...  71 is way too cool.  80-82 is probably ideal.> Since the clown fish is a host to the LTA and it says the water temp should be between 77-82 degrees that is where I have it. Any input? Thank You Al <Your temp is ideal.  If you are concerned about other conditions, please describe them in detail and we can go over them.  Best Regards, Adam.>

LT Anemone Hi there! <Hi there, Nicholas!> Hope you can help us, we find your site SO helpful! <Thank you!> We recently (last Thurs.) purchased a Long-Tentacle Anemone that is a few inches in diameter at her base.  She is a salmon-red color at her base with pinkish tentacles & is rather large when "open."  When we put her in the salt tank, she seemed to be fine & buried herself in the sand the next day. Just yesterday we unburied her & placed her on a rock & she attached.   <...bad idea. I should point out that many Long Tentacle Anemones are naturally found with their foot buried in the substrate. Removing it can be extremely stressful for the anemone.> Last night, we noticed a ball of mucous like slime (looks like its loaded with tiny brown tentacles) coming out of her side. She hasn't let go of it yet but will make it smaller at times.  This morning, she was more on her side & we noticed that on the bottom of her base, she had 2 more of these masses, one is actually fairly large & had brown algae between the mass & the rock. Is this waste? Or is she slowly dying? <I can't accurately tell you what it is without seeing a picture of the anemone. However, from the way you described it, I can say that most likely this "mass" is from either from Massive amounts of stress, Lack of food (lack of nutrients), poor water conditions, or that the anemones base was torn somehow. I have a feeling that the combination of removing the anemone from the sandbed and possibly tearing its base was the cause of this. As stated above, a picture would greatly help.> Her mouth was also open wide this morning. Is she starving? We were told to feed her brine shrimp, along with liquid supplements & are now reading differently.   <A gaping mouth is not a good sign -- possibly another stress factor (or lack of nutrients) is contributing to this. The Long tentacle anemone does best with meaty foods such as krill, squid, shrimp, diced fish, silversides or lancefish. I would first try the "trail-and-error" method to feeding your anemone: First try feeding one type of food at a time. If the food triggers the nematocysts (stingers located at the tip of each tentacle), the anemone will hang on to the food and pull it to its mouth. If the food does not trigger these nematocysts, the food will eventually float off the anemones tentacles with passing current. Take note of which foods the anemone does/does not accept. Feed only the foods which the anemones consumes. If you find that the anemone has "thrown up" its food within 24 hours, try feeding the food in smaller quantities.> We're so unsure! I can send photos if needed. <Yes, please send pictures of the anemones base. That would help out a lot.> Thanks so much for your help! <Take Care, Graham.> The Gilmores.

A bit of advice for an LTA Good evening! <Hello> First of all, I have to say that I love your site.  It has helped me a great deal in creating my saltwater aquarium.   <Thanks!> I have a few quick questions about the newest member of my tank.  My tank is 55 gal, it has a protein skimmer, a power head, 25 lbs of live rock (I know I need more, but sheesh that stuff is expensive), sand substrate about 3 inches deep, 2 "false" percula clowns, yellow tale blue damsel, Hawaiian tang, 5 red-tip crabs, 15 turbo snails, and of course my new pride and joy a purplish LTA.  I placed the LTA in my tank 3 days ago and my clowns are slowly starting to take to their host; however, the LTA doesn't seem to be acclimating to his environment very well.  He is still "wandering" around the tank and has not 'planted' a firm spot. The LTA at least accepts food, which I hear is quite the task for most anemone enthusiasts, but mine has a great appetite, grabbing the food with his tentacles and working it into his mouth (I know you know how it works, I just fine it so fascinating!).  LTA's mouth is great, no cuts or swelling and it never "gapes" open unless he is opening it to eat or excrete something.  The body seems to be a "textbook" orangey-red color with no wounds.  So my question is, why hasn't he found a "spot" yet?  Am I just being impatient?  Please any comments or suggestions you might have would be much appreciated. <I honestly wish I can give you an exact answer to why you're anemone is moving. Unfortunately, I can only guess why. First of all, Anemones will move to find a perfect environment to live in. Anemones have no central brain so they cannot adapt to an environment which is "almost" perfect. The anemone could be moving for simple reason, such as a bit too much current coming from the right, or possibly from larger reasons such as lack of lighting or improper water conditions. Overall, it's normal to have an anemone moving around in its new environment. However, if your tank does not meet the standards set by the anemone, the anemone continue moving around until it dies. In my opinion, intense lighting is one of the keys to success. Why do I say that? Because from my experience, Anemones have done the best under more intense lighting (such as Metal Halides), however, I have had several species of anemone do perfectly fine under power compacts. There's really not much you can do for the anemone except to continue feeding it. Eventually (hopefully), it should find a good area and settle down. Hope this helps. If you have any further questions, please feel free to email us back anytime. Graham Stephan.> Thanks,
Jess

Mystery marine creature... is it safe? I have seen a very small creature sticking out of one of my live rocks. sorry I have no picture at this time I will do my best to get one if it is needed.  This creature is like a very small feather looking thing that is what appears to be white in color with small black rings on it. I don't know if this is the actual creature or just what it uses to feed itself.   There are a few other creatures that I'm not for sure what they are. they are small round hollow looking tubes that look to be attached to one of my live rocks. three are yellow in color, one is a blue-ish color, and the other is white. they have a lot of little hair like things that stick out the front and form a circle like a feather duster but they are too small and attached to the rock to be feather dusters. <Many, too many creatures like you described to guess. Nearly all are harmless and signs of good tank health.> Another question is how long does it take a long tentacle anemone to be comfortable in a new aquarium and is there anything I can do to speed the process. I purchased one a week ago and it seems to be very stressed. it gapes from time to time but not for long periods of time. it also swells the top of itself up and retracts it tentacles. is this normal or is there something I might need to change. by the way I have them in a 5 g aquarium for the time being the one I had broke and these are the ones that survived. for the time being I have a 50/50 bulb on them no more than 3 inches above the water behind a plastic shield (does the shield need removed or replaced with glass) a 2 stage BioWheel filter, 50 watt heater, and a 7 inch bubbler. I add a few supplements every other day. for instance iodine, calcium, strontium & molybdenum, and essential elements. Plus I have a 50 watt halogen that points toward the tank from about 2 feet from it. if there is anything you can do to help me it would be appreciated. <Your anemone does sound stressed. It is very unlikely that a 5g aquarium can be equipped to care for it. Biowheel filters are not really suitable for reef tanks as they tend to promote the accumulation of nitrate. The lighting you described is probably also not adequate for anemones (at least strong VHO required). Controlling salinity in such a small tank will be difficult as well. Please discontinue any supplements except for calcium and alkalinity (buffer). Iodine, Sr and Mb can all become toxic very quickly in such a small tank. I would recommend that you test Nitrate, Salinity and alkalinity and take steps to correct any of those that are out of range. For the well being of the anemone (and any other animals in the 5g), please replace your broken tank ASAP.> thanks Dustin sweet <Best Regards. Please do write back with any more questions. Adam>

LTA question Hello, <Hi there> About 2 weeks ago I purchased a Long Tentacled Anemone.  I added it to my twenty gallon tall aquarium.  The tank currently has about 12lbs of Fiji live rock and a 3 inch bed of crushed coral and live sand.  There is also a lot of different kinds of macroalgae that I am culturing in there.  There is a protein skimmer and a power filter (for water movement).  The water is turned over about 10 times.  I have a 65 watt Power compact 50/50 light on the tank.  The light duration is about 13 hours.  The PH is 8.1 around noon, Salinity 1.025 and Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate are zero at all times.  I replace evaporated water with R.O. water.  I also do partial water changes every 4 weeks.  The only inhabitants in the tank are about five Astrea snails.   <Sounds very nice> My question has to do with the anemone.  I had tried feeding it Mysis shrimp.  It refused this so I fed it Brine.  It accepted this.  I was wondering if a feeding of brine shrimp once a day will support a 7-8inch wide anemone.  If not what suggestions do you have?  Also the tentacles have begun to shrink.  Is this normal.  Usually they inflate back up, but lately fewer and fewer reach their normal size. Thank you , Sam Reef <Some diurnal, periodic shrinking of tentacles is normal, to be expected... I would not try to sustain this animal on a steady diet of brine shrimp. Please read over the anemone feeding FAQs archived on www.WetWebMedia.com Bob Fenner>

Long tentacle Anemone problem? 1/6/03 I have not written for help in about six months. Everyone has been very helpful in the past. I have a 90 gal reef tank which was setup on 1/10/03. Lighting is 2 175w MH and 2 48" VHO actinics which are on 11 hrs per day. I have a U.V. sterilizer, protein skimmer, 2 Mag 350's with carbon changed monthly, 2 powerheads and a little giant pump for a flow of about 1600gph. There is also a heater/chiller unit. <Sounds very nice!> Water parameters are as follows: S.G.- 1.024, temp- 76F, nitrates- aprox. 2, pH.- 8.4, salinity- 34, alkalinity- 200 ppm., ammonia- 0, nitrites- 0, phosphates- 0, and ca- 400. I use LaMotte test kits for all above parameters. <All sounds appropriate.> I have 125 lbs Kaelini/Tonga rock, 11 different corals, an asst of snails, crabs and 2 starfish. Fish is as follows: 1 coral beauty, 1 flame hawkfish, 1 yellow tang, 3 beryl Anthias and pair of true perculas. The last fish was added in October 2003 and the last corals were added at thanksgiving of 2003.       The end of August 2003 I added a Long tentacle anemone. It quickly found its home, and until today seemed to be doing great. It had grown to about 15" in diameter with very long tentacles that flowed easily in the water. The clownfish hid and played easily in it. All day today the anemone has shrunk to about 8" in diameter. The tentacles have shrunk with the tips being very skinny and dark green. The clownfish cannot fit in it and it seems to be very stiff as the tentacles are not waving at all. Do you think he is in trouble or could this just be part of his personality? I do not recall seeing him like this. What if anything should I be looking to as possibly causing a problem with him? <Most anemones shrink and expand fairly regularly.  There are many theories on why this may be the case, but it is totally normal.  The appearance you describe sounds a bit unusual, but I wouldn't worry unless this state lasts more than a few days and/or the anemone starts to "disintegrate".>         As far as any changes all I can think of is I have always used instant ocean but I changed to reef crystals. I am almost done with the 200 gal pail and I was going back to the instant ocean. Could this be a problem? <I doubt it.  If you had changed to a questionable brand of salt, I might suspect it, but RC is a reliable brand.  If you do think of an other changes, please do write back.  Best regards.  Adam>    Thanks for all your help

Throwing Some Light On Anemone Husbandry Hello, <Hi there! Scott F. with you today!> I have a couple of questions about anemones. The first one is on a long tentacled anemone It was a beautiful green color when we bought it. After being in the tank a short while, it has turned a brownish color and the base has lightened in color as well. The Tank that it is in is a 75 gallon, it has a wet/dry, protein skimmer. The lights on the tank are power compacts. I have two 50/50 smart bulbs. The water is in line with the parameters of a healthy tank. <Well, the change of coloration is most likely a reaction to lighting conditions, similar to the changes that many wild-collected SPS corals tend to undergo when introduced to new tanks with light levels far below what they are used to. Really, for optimum growth, you need a lot of light intensity. I'm a big fan of power compacts, but under most circumstances, I don't think that they provide the intensity required for anemones. Perhaps if you add more of them, this may make a difference. Usually, we recommend metal halide as the light of choice for optimum coloration and health of anemones...> The other question is on a small Haiti (not sure of spelling) <Not sure what this is- sorry...> It was eaten by the anemone talked about above, and ever since then has never been able to attach itself to anything. Other the fact of that it looks healthy good color and shape. Thank you for your help , Tom <Well, Tom- keep providing good water conditions, feed the anemone regularly, and entertain the idea of increasing light intensity. Good luck! Regards, Scott F>

Clowns and my LTA Hey Bob!  Dude from Miami again!  How are you bro? <Fine, thanks> Sorry, got another question for ya - I just put in my new LTA (see pic) last night and he/she is doing terrific!  (Pleasant surprise!)  Anyway, my question is:  Will my Nemo (Amphiprion ocellaris) hang with this LTA and form a relationship? <Mmm, a good possibility, though these two species are not found in natural association in the wild> I know its only been one day, and it will take time, but I'm wondering what the chances are of them hooking up.  (Nemo seems mostly interested in eating and looking cute)  And, if not, can I get a second, different type of clown that will go to the LTA, and if I can, which type of clown would be my best choice? <Yes... please take a look at the compatibility chart here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm>   I've read through your FAQ's and articles on clowns, but still a little uncertain.  Will a second clown compete with Nemo, or try to kill him? <A possibility... how big is this system? If more than sixty gallons, you've got more than a 50:50 chance they'll "get along"> Or will they sex off and maybe even share the Anenome if the second one is bigger than Nemo (Nemo's quite small)? <Very unlikely> I know lots of questions/details - sorry, but I trust your opinion(s), not really anyone else's! Thanks again for all your help and the ultimate site. Dude <Be chatting. Bob Fenner>
Re: Clowns and my LTA Thanks for the response Bob!  Yeah, I have just a 55 gallon with Ecosystem filtration.  I figure a saddleback clown would be my best bet for a second, but I've also read on your FAQ's that Clarkiis go to the LTA as well. Another possibility I guess would be to get another slightly larger Nemo to pair them up, since you said its a good possibility that the ocellaris will hook up with the LTA despite not being naturally assc'd in the wild............. Thanks so much again Bob for all your help!! Dude <Welcome. Bob Fenner>

LTA Injured >Dear Crew: >>Dear Angie, using Jeffrey's email.. Marina here. >I have a 44 pent saltwater tank w/an undergravel filter/Power Sweep 228 powerhead, Eheim Classic 2217, JBJ power compact lighting (1 36w actinic,  1 36w 10K), 1 15w Marine-Glo, and a crushed shell base.  The depth is 22". >>Ok.  Since this question, I'm assuming, is about a long tentacle anemone, I'm wondering why you've gone with an undergravel filter (assuming you're new to saltwater). >Currently, I have about 15 lbs of live rock, 1 Gorgonia, 1 flowerpot coral w/barnacles (these look like skeletal hands, it's really cool), 1 Montipora w/button polyps, a large hunk of Porites, some mushrooms, Ricordea, and what I think to be "waving hands" coral (growing like crazy).   >>That would probably be Xenia. >I also have a panther grouper, a Fiji damsel, a cleaner shrimp, a red fire shrimp and a curlicue anemone that I've had for 2 years. >>You've had *that* mix of fish for two years???  I would expect the panther (which is in a pitifully small tank for its ultimate adult size) to begin slurping up what fits in its mouth as soon as it thinks they'll fit. >All are doing great!  Ph is 8.4, salinity is 1.025, temp is 76,  no ammonia, 'trites or 'trates. (Pods and serpent stars are throughout substrate and live rock.)  Recently, I added an LTA and noticed that its pedicle was damaged (don't know if it was during collection or bagging at the fish store).   >>Uh oh.. rough handling, bad juju. >It looks like a white ragged rip about 1/4" long across the foot, which is 3" in diameter.  It wants to anchor but won't/can't (it seems to hover over the substrate, not quite off, but not quite in)  The coloring is great and otherwise seems healthy.  Is this anemone doomed or is there a way I can facilitate its healing? (I plan on upgrading the lighting to 2 55w PC bulbs instead of the 2 36w PCs within the next month.) >>Glad to hear you're going to upgrade that lighting.  I strongly suggest you set up a small (ten gallons should do) hospital tank, and line it with well-washed Astroturf (yes, Astroturf!).  This helps removal once the anemone has healed.  I would line all surfaces (remember, you don't have to fill the tank all the way up with water) with the turf.  From here you have two choices; you can either keep water quality pristine as you do in your main and observe, or you can begin treating with Spectrogram.  In either case, handle the animal with care. >Your site is incredible, one of the most informative I have ever seen on the web.  Thank you in advance!  Angie S. >>Thank you, and you're welcome.  I do hope this helps.  Marina
LTA Injured - Pt. II >So sorry about my husband's previous question about undergravs.  I told him to look through the FAQs first!   >>You've made my biggest smile for the day so far. >Thanks again for the response, but we are taking the LTA back to our LFS today and getting credit or a better specimen.   >>Sounds like a good idea to me.  Though, upon reading our FAQs, you'll notice that we strongly discourage keeping motile cnidarians (anemones) with sessile inverts, as they can move about and inadvertently sting them to death.  Just so you're aware of the possibility. >Have relocated the grouper to our trigger tank (don't gasp, they are about 3" compared to his 5" and either he is really docile -he thinks he's a dog!- or we feed him really well and regularly) and all are getting along.   >>No gasping here, I've had panthers and found them to be sufficiently "froggy" for lots of triggers.   >Thanks again for such informed people running a superb site!!!  Angie S. (Using Jeff's email again!!) >>You're quite welcome, and thank you!  Marina

Long Tentacle Anemone Eviscerating? >Greetings, >>Hello.  Marina today (and sorry for the delay in reply, just found this in another inbox, he's having computer troubles I think). >I am having problems with a long tentacle. First off my tank is an older Dutch 55 gal., 39 wide 16 deep 24 tall.  Pump is a MagDrive 350 and two powerheads, one on each side of tank.  Lighting is power compact 2x96 watt 10,000k and a blue actinic. I don't use the protein skimmer in the Dutch but purchased an Excalibur hang-on-tank skimmer.  I have about 15 pounds of live rock in tank currently and about a 3/4 inch sugar fine sand bed  and Greenstar polyps.  SG is 1.021-1.022, pH is 8.4.  I purchased a long tentacle yesterday and did not do enough research before doing so. >>Uh oh, well, at least you know your mistake.  Let's see if we can rectify (although you've given no other parameters, and I don't know exactly what "older" means). >The long tentacle is white with pink base.  After reading several articles I realized that when they are white they do not have any of their algae.  I acclimated it for a hour prior to releasing it to tank, I put it in the corner and it started inflating and moving around the tank.  This morning when I check on it, I noticed a hole near the tentacles on the back side and it seems to be puking its guts.  I'm sure it's stressed. >>If you're positive these are its innards, and not just a mucous slime, then this is called evisceration, and yes, you're right, this indicates real stress.  In such a situation, you must remove it immediately, or it will die and likely foul the entire tank.  A small (ten gallons or so) hospital tank can be set up for observation. >What can be done to help?  The tentacles are still up but not real full, the clown tries to stimulate him while swimming but his mouth still open.  Should I wait and see or will this be terminal?? >>When it comes to anemones, wait and see is NOT the best approach.  The clown is only stressing it more, assuming it's not attached the best course of action is to remove it.  You should also line the vessel you place it into with well washed Astroturf  (this is to facilitate easy removal without tearing the animal up should it recover).  I believe you should also test your basic water parameters, as even trace ammonia and nitrites can be sufficient stress here. >Thank you for all your advice, Joel >>Hopefully this message isn't getting to you too late, best of luck.  Marina

Long Tentacle Anemone - Lighting Follow-up >I spoke to someone at HelloLights, and they recommended that I scrap my hoods and purchase a Coralife Aqualight 4x65 watt hood.   >>I agree.  This outfit has an EXCELLENT reputation with those who make their purchases online, too. >It comes with (2) Coralife Actinic lights and (2) Coralife 10000 lights...  What do you think of this configuration?  Is this enough light to keep a long tentacled Anenome? >>I think it's a good start, however, do watch it closely, and remember to feed the animal directly. >Also, if you could recommend some other anenomes/corals that I might be able to keep with this configuration.. >>My goodness, you can certainly keep a huge variety of soft corals, Sarcophytons, corallimorphs (mushrooms), and the like.  I think you may also be able to keep large polyp stony corals (LPS), but you'll need to also address calcium/available biomineral issues if you go that route.  I wouldn't add another anemone for quite a while--see how things go with this one, as the issues aren't only about lighting but also about water quality. >BTW - what are you doing in Reno?  Just curious?  I grew up out there.. >>Went to visit the boyfriend who lives in the Lake Tahoe (South Lake, to be specific) area.  Reno, as you know, is the nearest major (if you can call it that) city. >live in AZ now though... >>Ah.. a "zonie", now, eh?  ;) >Thanks!  Todd >>Very welcome, Todd.  Let's hope all goes well with your gift anemone.  Marina

LTA's are NOT for Gifting! >Hey guys. your site is awesome.. thank you so much for running such an informative source! >>Welcome, and thanks (from one of the gals). >I am VERY new to the saltwater hobby and want to get some quick answers from you in English. >>Good thing, that's my native tongue.  I'd have to call Mom if you needed 'em in Spanish. >I'm sure the answers are already posted on here, but I don't understand all the acronyms, etc. >>Indeed, they are. >I have a 75 gallon acrylic tank with 2 hoods on top. Each hood has one light bulb in it.  It WAS a fish only tank.. With substrate, 6 or 7 pieces of dead coral, and fish.. We bought it used.  2 percula clown fish, 1 lemon damsel, 1 blue jaw trigger, and 1 hermit crab.  My wife just bought me a Long Tentacle Anemone for my birthday.  The guy at the local fish store told her they are very easy to keep and that they do not really need any special lighting.   >>He is incorrect. It is pretty big with a large orange base..  It's beautiful.  I have been enamored with them forever, but always thought they were hard to keep. She surprised me, and as soon as she presented me with it, I called the fish store, and the guy told me the same thing he had told her.. Easy to keep.. No special lighting.. Clowns will love it.. Drip water to acclimate.. Etc..etc.. >>Good lord.  I am biting my fingers (read: tongue).  Any other than pest anemones tend to be among the most difficult of invertebrates to keep, long tentacles are no different.  They need BEST water quality, very good lighting.  I shall link you, please make very good use of the links/info held within. >I dripped water from my tank into its bag for about 2 hours (to get him acclimated to the new water), and then dropped him into my tank TONIGHT. >>Alright.  Good method. >She looks great in there. Hopefully will find a spot and attach soon. >>May not with such insufficient lighting, read on. >I then jumped on the web to learn all I can about these guys. I really hope my clowns take to her, but first things first, I really hope I can keep her happy and flourishing. >>Please, for next time, first things first means learning about the animal BEFORE making the purchase.  But you wouldn't believe how many people buy others animals for their systems and often don't know the first thing.  Recently read some posts by someone whose roommate added a fish to his reef while he was gone, it was a DISASTER.  Research first. >My tank looks good after doing a bunch of water tests, but my salinity may be too low???  (at about 1.017 right now)... also, I am worried about my lighting. >>That is DEFINITELY too low.  Should be at 1.025-1.026.  Either do water changes with water of higher salinity (around 1.030) till you get it to this level, or remove tank water, add salt to this s.g. and slowly raise it up.  Don't do more quickly than over a couple to a few days, though.  We don't want to shock any residents. >I am attaching 3 pictures; one of the sticker within my hood(s) showing specs for lighting it will accept... second, a picture of the writing on one of the bulbs housed in my hood(s).. And third, a picture of the anemone. >>First two came up fine, server wouldn't give me the anemone, but no worries.  Your lighting is WOEFULLY inadequate.  You will have to use either compact fluorescents or metal halides, and this issue must be addressed within the next few weeks.  The anemone will have to be acclimated slowly to the new lighting or risk burn.  We have articles and FAQ's (frequently asked questions) regarding exactly this, and this anemone. >lease let me know what I need to do to keep her alive and well..  I hope I don't have to spend a fortune on new hoods, bulbs, etc, but give it to me straight. >>This lady is nothing BUT a straight shooter, if you can't part with the money, you'll part with the anemone one way or the other.  Do know that these animals have been shown to have lifespans so long that, like koi, they could be willed to your kin upon your death.  That means that "Oh, I had an anemone for over two years!" means NOTHING. >ALSO, assuming I needed to raise the salinity or upgrade my lighting.. How quickly do I need to do it???  Is she in danger of a quick death??? >>Salinity: start now.  Lighting, within the next month, two at the OUTSIDE. >And finally.. Should I move her towards the side of the tank (not really much to latch on to where she fell)???   And how many hours a day do I want to leave my tank lights on??? >>Try not to handle the anemone, it'll move where it wants anyway.  Only if its life is in peril (the powerhead suck, for instance).  Photoperiod should mimic tropical environs -- 12-14 hours/day. >I hope that is all.. >>We can only hope.  :p >Thanks so much!  Todd Patrie >>Very welcome, now get ready for the linkage, Todd.   http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/index.htm  Within this link, look through Setup (to address any filtration issues, since they're not mentioned), "Non-vertebrate Life 1", and "Maintenance/Operation".  The information contained therein is FAR more than what I can adequately address here.  Marina
LTA's Are Not For Gifting, part II >Thank you Marina... >>You're welcome, Todd. >Would any of these listed bulbs be strong enough for the long tentacle anemone? >>Truthfully, not sure, I'm sending out this message to a few others as well for their input.  I would strongly suggest you bring this up on our forums http://www.wetwebfotos.com/talk >I have a feeling I'll be printing out your email and bringing it, along with the anemone back to the fish store... This is the type of tank I have - it's A "self enclosed system" by SeaClear... so I don't know if I can get custom lighting for it.. the bulbs listed are what they offer for my hoods. >>Unfortunately, I've never worked with this system, again, the boards could net you far more results.  Including possible ideas for retrofitting, it does sound as though you really love this anemone. >Thanks!  Todd >>You're welcome!  Marina >Accessories For: Brand: SeaClear Type: System II Aquarium SKU: 93076 Description: SeaClear System II 75 Regular Black, Blue, or Cobalt Blue Back More Info Brand Style SKU Dimension Description Price Accessories SeaClear  20200  System II Explore Protein Skimmer $44.99 Accessory Coralife 70320  ColorMax 18 Bulb 15w $9.99 Accessory Coralife 15 watt 70037  Coralife Actinic Blue 360 18 15w $19.99 Accessory >Coralife 15 watt 72436  Coralife 10,000K 360 18 15w $24.99 Accessory< >>This kind of information (the "10,000K" bit) is what you're looking for with bulbs.  You want to mimic the sun in terms of color temperature and intensity. >Coralife 15 watt 72196  Coralife Trichromatic 360 18 15w $19.99 Accessory >Coralife 15 watt AF863  Coralife 50/50 360 18 15 w $19.99 Accessory< >>This is another popular bulb, but in my opinion two of this, and two of the #72436 would be more in order. >>Jas, Bob, I'm leaving the body of the previous in here because I'm sending this email out to other crewmembers for opinions.  Thanks!  Marina P.S. Don't forget, I leave for Reno tomorrow morning.  Won't return till Sunday evening, late>>

-Macrodactyla doreensis and Entacmaea quadricolor- Macrodactyla doreensis and Entacmaea quadricolor have interested me for a long time.. I have finally decided to give it a try.. the tank has cycled.. its a 60 gallon tank.. the dimensions are (LxWxH) 48"x15"x14.5".. lighting is what came with the system about 120 watts.. 2 4' Coralife 40w 50/50 and 1 4' 40w marine Glo.. I also have 30 lbs of live rock in the tank.. my question is what is this amount of light enough to keep these particular anemone's?? <I would suggest at least 4x55w PC's as a minimum for either, and of the two E. quad. is a much hardier specimen (they can also easily be acquired tank raised.>and if not, r there any other anemone's that would work in this amount of light??? <Not any pacific anemone I can think of> and if not.. r there any corals that I could keep with this amount of light?? <'Shrooms and polyps may do alright, but I'd strongly suggest upgrading to my earlier suggestion. Good luck! -Kevin> thank u very much for answering.. Jiwan

-Surprise! You've got a LTA!- Hello, Background: I am new to the salt water hobby.  Have put in a 20gal tank at work (stress reliever :-) ) as a test to learn about salt aquariums and do my trial & error before investing huge dollars in a 150+ at home. For approx 3 months tank had a 1 Scarlet cleaner shrimp, 1 blue damsel and 1 yellow tail damsel.  Tank has been doing fine and water test from the fish store are "OK" (after reading through your site, I am getting a test kit to obtain "exact" numbers or ranges).  <Excellent> Anyhow, the kids & wife decided to surprise me with a maroon clown and long tentacle anemone (I know this is probably a little over the limit for 20gal). <You may want to suggest gift-certificate surprises in the future...> Put them in and clown is doing fine, very active.  Anemones I know nothing about which leads me to write. <Anemones are reasonably difficult to keep, and should only be attempted by a seasoned coral enthusiast with the proper system and information, that's why they don't make a good surprise!> Situation: The anemone crawled around a little at first and now seems to like a spot in the back corner on crushed coral floor.  There is a moderate current in the tank and the anemone puts his tentacles up in ballet motion with the current (not sure what he does at night - also running a Marine Glo (blue lamp) and Power Glo (white lamp)). <Unfortunately, you don't have nearly enough light to keep this critter alive> Color of the anemone is basically a milky translucent white. <This anemone is what we call "bleached". That means that it has lost it's symbiotic algae <zooxanthellae> that allows it to use the light (a large portion of it's daily energy comes from this algae). So we have two problems here, no internal algae to photosynthesize, nor the light to get it accomplished anyhoo.> He does seem to change colors on the disk area from time which is one concern/question (sometimes a pinky looking color - not sure if this is from contracting and expanding). <Could be> The tentacles when extended are translucent turning to a pretty light translucent green at the tips. From time to time he will draw a section of them in and they look shriveled and a pale green color, is this normal? <Nope> Also the base where these draw up, at times, will look kind of pale gray.  The stalk or base is a bright orange.  The base also has long stringy mucus looking material attached from time to time.  Should this stay or be cleaned (removed). <I would leave it, it may be it's own slime, hopefully the base hasn't been damaged.>  A few days after putting him in there, I went and had the water tested again and they said the nitrates or nitrites (don't remember which) was a little high <Whoa, big deal here. Nitrites are exceptionally toxic at even the lowest levels where nitrates are not toxic until they're in the hundreds of ppm. A distinction needs to be made here, and quick!> and to add Nitromax for about a week to bring it down.  So basically is the color and actions of the anemone normal and is there anything else I should be doing? <You need to do a lighting upgrade; potentially a system upgrade. Check out these anemone lighting FAQ's http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemonelightngfaqs.htm, and I'd suggest that you purchase Joyce Wilkerson's book entitled Clownfish. This book has spectacular anemone husbandry information. You'll need at least 2 full length sets of power compact or VHO lighting at a minimum to keep the critter happy in the long term, preferably metal halide lighting. First, pick up the book, and second write back with your system specs and we can take it from there. Good luck! -Kevin> Thanks for all the help and all the knowledge you share! Bill

Long tentacle Anenome 08/27/03 Hi My name is Adam <Hi Adam, PF with you today> I am new to this hobby, but am very impressed with your site!  This is the deal, I kind of adopted a small reef tank (25Gal) from an Air force buddy of mine who had to move to a new location.  It only has 1 Anenome and live rock,  lots of bristle worms, red and green algae and a clown fish.  Is it normal for the Anenome to just crawl inside itself.  It did this about 2 hours ago.  The suspense waiting for it to come back out is killing me.  I know enough about salt water to check all the primary water conditions and to do make no sudden changes specific gravity changes etc.  The water is perfect except for a low SG 1.020 , To correct this I have been replacing evaporated water with SG correct water 1.024 at about 1 qt per day.  Is every thing Ok or Is it going to die?   <Well, I closely monitor the SG situation, but you're doing the right thing by bringing it up. If the Anenome is really unhappy, it will start to wander around. Did your friend give you any feeding instructions for it? Here's an article on anenomes http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm, start your reading there. I would recommend picking up Michael Paletta's New Marine Aquarium. After reading that, and getting the concept down, I'd advise Bob's The Conscientious Marine Aquarist also. Lots and lots to learn about your new hobby and new charges. Good luck, and remember, we'll be here to help if you need it.>

Anemone question    Hi I need some help please ,  my long tentacle anemone is growing a bubble on its base. It looks like it strangled it self, but it feels hard. Could it be ill or is it splitting?. Thank you. <most likely splitting Best, Chris>

-LTA and scratching fish- First off I wanted to say thanks for all the VERY useful information you have provided all of us aquarium enthusiast over the years...Very much appreciated! <Hi there, Kevin here> My problem/concern is two fold. I have a 370 gallon tank in which most of the creatures (rock and all) have been in there or another tank for the last 3 years. <Well done!> pH is at about 8.2 as far as I can tell (old test kit) <Chuck it and get new reagents. Test kits are only good for a year.> Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate are all at the very low end of the spectrum ( don't remember the numbers exactly). Salinity is at 1.023 or so. I am in Colorado and have been told that at the higher altitudes I don't need the salinity as high?? <Not sure about that, but 1.023 isn't going to hurt anything.> I can't tell you what alkalinity is but I have been adding the two part B-Ionic solution regularly. <Read this and now you can! http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm If you plan on adding a calcium and alk supplement, you should understand what they do and test for both of them> Lighting is provided by 175 watt Metal Halide lamps. One concern is this: I recently added a large long tentacle anemone and it seems to be doing ok. It moved around at first but now has picked a place and is staying there. I have a tomato clown that has moved in and they seem to be getting along just fine. The problem is that the tentacles on the anemone have pretty much stayed curled since I have had it. <Nothing wrong with that, many display this curved tentacle shape.> I also noticed that at night when the lights are off, the tentacles are completely extended and its disc is more slightly upright and you can see its foot more. <In a better position to capture food and just doing it's nighttime thing.> Whereas in the day it is flattened out but with the curled tentacles. <In a better position to catch light. Pretty much every coral and anemone will display a different form from day to night.> What could be causing this? And how do I fix it? Second concern is this: All my fish inhabitants look great and have a good appetite but they will occasionally rub themselves real fast on the rock or sand. My tangs specifically will turn sideways and rub themselves on the sand. In my research I have found that fish will sometimes do that if the pH is too acidic. As far as I can tell though, it is right on??? <Usually an indicator that the fish may have the beginnings of parasitic infection. Your pH appears to be right on, but since the kit's old, it has no merit.> If you have the time, please let me know what you think. I am always concerned about giving these guys the best life they can have so please help me do that, if you would please. :) <Keep an eye out for any white specs on the fish, cloudy eyes, or a powdery glaze. I'd suggest soaking the food in garlic as an easy "herbal" type of preventative medicine. Good luck! -Kevin>