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Suddenly sick cichlid, iatrogenic 7/14/12 Carpet Anemone, treated like a rug...
11/26/09 New carpet anemone 3-25-09
Re: Stichodactyla gigantea, Lighting, Collection - 9/29/07
Thank you for your advice, Brenda! <You're Welcome!> Today, I
was re-reading my issues of Coral Fish, the major reef publication
here, and, in short, they say that so few healthy carpet anemones come
into Japan that they cannot recommend buying most imported specimens.
<I would have to agree with that. Collection and transport is very
difficult on them. Here in the US, I recommend propagated anemones over
wild collected. Too many anemones die from collection and shipping.>
They believe one should be an expert at judging the health of an
anemone before purchasing one (and, even then, recommend purchasing
domestically raised carpets). <Definitely learn how to select a
healthy anemone.> I have yet to see a blue carpet from Okinawa, so
after reading your advice and this, I will give my tank at least a few
more years before thinking about this again. <Good!> Bob is right
about going overboard in gear here. People here tend to want the
newest, "best" thing that they often don't need, such as
new snowboards and cell phones "every" year. I luckily get
most of my equipment from a store with a conscience, which is why I
have a simpler set-up than most people here. <Wise choice!> Also,
I think I was unclear in my last e-mail. "Acclimating" in
English seems to also include matching the temperature of the water in
the anemone/coral bag to the tank before putting it in, which many
people in Japan do in fact do with at least anemones (often by floating
the bag in the tank water). I had only intended it to mean when you
slowly drip in the water from the main tank into the container
containing the anemone/coral. I did it with the Sebae thanks to the
advice in your FAQ, but the store I purchased it from feels that if
your water quality is as good as it should be, it is unnecessary.
<Even if water parameters are excellent, there will still be some
variation in chemistry. Introducing an anemone to a new environment is
very stressful, and it is best to do so slowly. Keep in mind you will
have no idea what this anemone has been through before it got to you. I
can assure you, if it has recently been removed from the ocean, it has
suffered some degree of stress. If you can eliminate any added stress,
I recommend doing so.> Thank you again so much for your helpful
advice! <You're welcome! Brenda> Your fan, K Rising nitrite after fish addition- lighting ? Tusk in a too small world... with a Carpet Anemone? 8/2/07 Dear WWM Crew, <Scott> I stumbled across a copy of The Conscientious Marine Aquarist and read about my recent Harlequin Tusk purchase before doing so and was very impressed with the accurate description of this fish thus far, excellent job Mr. Fenner! <Danke> I have recently introduced this Indonesian Harlequin Tusk and since its' addition, the tank has been going through a small cycle. I am pretty sure it is due more to my trying to get the tusk to eat, which he is doing quite well now, (subsequently overfeeding with frozen krill/mysis shrimp and shrimp pellets, leaving behind organic detritus) than the actual addition of the new fish. The tusk has been in for 5 days now. Prior to the addition NH4, NO2, NO3 were all at 0. On day 4 NH4 was 0 and NO2 and NO3 were slightly raised at .1 and 2.5 respectively. Today (Day 5) NH4 is around 0 (.1 at the most) NO2 has risen slightly to .2 and NO3 is still at 2.5 ppm. The tank is an established (1.5 yrs) 65gallon <Mmm, the Tusk needs more room> with a 20 gallon sump (wet/dry with bio balls trickle), a 65gal Coralife SuperSkimmer (that actually pulls a descent amount everyday), an estimated 80 lbs of live rock by now, and a 15W Aqua UV sterilizer. The fish are not showing any signs of stress, but wanting to ward off any trouble I did a 5 gallon water change and rinsed out the filter media in the old water before I dumped it, then put the same media back in. I did not want to replace the media for the risk of losing bacterial breakdown capability which is what I need to work. (was rinsing it at all even a good idea?) <Likely not a problem... given the amount of LR, the refugium...> I halted feeding accept for the tusk to which I only fed him/her one krill today. <Good> I want to know if there is anything more that I can/should be doing to aid in the quick reduction of this cycle? <Patience really...> Will turning off the lights help reduce anything? The tank will probably drop a degree over the next day with the lights off, is this beneficial? <Mmm, no. I would turn the lights back on, cycle them regularly> As a side note how long should my carpet anemone <!? I would NOT keep a carpet in this small volume... If it should be "upset" it will take your fishes out in short fashion> go without lighting if this course of action is recommended? Thank you for your advice on this matter. All the best, Scott <Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/carpetanemones.htm and here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/fishes/wrasses/Choerodon/faciata.htm and the linked files above... I'd move the Carpet elsewhere pronto... be looking for a much larger home for the Choerodon... Bob Fenner> Carpet anemone, comp. 5/16/07 Hi there <Dave> Hate to write, prefer to read. I spend probably close to an hour a day reading on your site, it is my understanding that more than 1 anemone can not live happily together in one tank, <Mmm, well... some species more than others... and if the system is huge...> however I can not find if it is just carpets or tentacle or all anemones all together. I am just hoping you can refer me to the proper page. <Oh, is here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/index.htm scroll down to the tray on Anemones... the Compatibility FAQs files...> I have a long tentacle anemone and a carpet, I stupidly bought the carpet spur of the moment without doing my reading first and am now worried that they will not be ok together. <Not likely... and carpet species alone are generally hard to keep in hobby circumstances... as you'll read/see> Thanks so much for the help, I have found your site to be the best thing since fragged polyps, and has kept me and mine functioning with excellence since the start. <Heeeee! Thank you. Bob Fenner> Dave Carpet anemone problems... induced 11/18/06 hello WWM crew, I have had a marine setup for a few months now and I set it up from new. The tank has matured and I've had a few species in there living comfortably for a while now and there are no problems with the water chemistry, but a carpet anemone ive <...> had in there for a month is always shriveled up and seems lifeless. When I try to feed it with lance fish <...> the resident clown fish takes the food away and wont let the anemone feed, I don't know if this is the problem with it or not but it has turned completely inside out and shrunk really small. <...> its was attached to rock and then when I found it in the morning it was up-side down and lifeless. Does this mean its dead or is there a chance I can save it? any info on this would be much appreciated. thank you. <Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/cptanemdisfaqs.htm and the linked files above. Bob Fenner> Carpet..., just read 10/8/06 Hi WWM Crew I have a 30 gallon tank. Would a Stichodactyla haddoni (Carpet Anemone) fit in my 30 gallon tank? <Nope> Because they get large. I have a powerhead I am going to use for extra water movement for the anemone. Also what lighting requirements are needed for the Stichodactyla haddoni? I am making sure that I research before I buy. Thank you for your reply <Read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/carpetanemones.htm and the linked files above. BobF> Re: sea anemone.. Carpet..., just read 10/8/06 Thank you for your fast reply. I will have to find another interesting invertebrate. One more quick question. Why do anemones need so much light? Because if you feed them meaty foods why would they need the light. They do not do photosynthesis. Thanks <Most do/can derive a significant portion of their nutrition through photosynthesis... Please, keep reading. BobF> Blue Anemone... Is It Real? - 10/02/06 Dyed Anem., Cpt. FAQs f's Crew- <<CJ>> Just to double check, can blue-colored carpets be 'healthy', or are these always bleached/injected/doomed? <<There are "blue" carpet anemones in the wild>> For example, do the specimens offered for sale @ http://www.gofishdirect.com/commerce.cgi?cart_id=1156027517.18607&product=Anemone&pid=1431&log_pid=yes appear to your eye to be specimens that conscientious hobbyists should avoid? <<Possibly, but more due to the fact these anemones "may" have been rough-handled, they ship poorly, and can be difficult to acclimate to captive systems...but not because it is blue>> Some research published on your site and by others in print have led me to be wary of such vivid specimens, knowing that organisms that host zooxanthellae favor browns, creams, oranges, greens.... such an intense blue makes me think twice. <<Indeed... As stated, there "are" blue anemones (Bob posted a picture of a wild specimen in Sulawesi not long ago), and it is my experience and belief that most pictures of "vividly" colored corals posted for sale are...shall we say...less than accurate representations. I'm not saying these particular anemones haven't been dye injected...there's always that chance. Your best bet is to research the vendor as best you can (query the message boards) to try to determine if they are known for passing dyed or otherwise tainted livestock>> Your thoughts on purchasing afore referenced specimen? <<Hmm…how many blue anemones have you seen thriving in hobbyist's tanks?>> As always, I appreciate your opinion, time. Cj <<As always, is a pleasure to share. EricR>> Carpet Anemone/Compatibility/Anemone Systems 04/17/2006 Hi, <Hello Christy> I just wanted to know a little about the blue striped clown and possible anemone hosts. I am in the process of restocking my 30 gal tank and I purchased a green carpet anemone with an anemone crab living with it. <No researching done here for sure as to needs/requirements of this creature.> I previously had two true Percs living in a BTA, but unfortunately they were lost in an "accident" in the tank. I was told that the carpet was not a suitable host for clowns, which is why I got the crab with it. <They are suitable hosts for certain species of clownfish such as perculas. Other clowns may also call it home in the absence of their preferred anemone host.> I recently picked up a blue striped clown (only one - that's all they had) and added it to the tank. I was not expecting there to be any reaction between the anemone and the clown. I know that it is not easy to get the clown to accept an anemone. Naturally the minute the clown was introduced to the tank it went straight to the anemone! My concern is that this clown seems to be reacting to the sting of the anemone (I know I did when trying to relocate it!) It has taken to sucking on the tentacles and seems to be reacting less to that over the couple of days it has been in. <Normal adapting behavior, the reaction causes the clownfish to produce a protective slime coating.> Is this how it stimulates production of the mucus coating? Will it eventually be able to tolerate the sting of this anemone? <Yes.> I am not sure whether I should be concerned, or let "nature" take its course. If it does accept the anemone (the crab seems willing, or resigned to share at this point??) should I try to get a "mate" for the clown? <Not necessary, I'd be more concerned as to how long this anemones life span is going to be in your tank. Do read here Christy. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm <<James, need more link/s, guidance than this. RMF>> I have a smaller tank <10 gal that is cycling now. I have never had a quarantine tank before. Would that be appropriate to use as a quarantine tank until the larger tank is fully stocked? Then I could put a fish in the smaller one to stay. <Yes, for smaller fish such as the clown.> I have had the larger tank for 2 - 3 years, but I am still a novice at this. <Do search/read on livestock before you buy, know requirements/needs of the animal.> Thanks for taking the time to respond. <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog) Christy Carpet Anemone Care 1/8/06 Should I feed my green carpet anemone at night or during the day. <I usually feed anemones in the day when they are fully expanded and alert.> I feed it thawed frozen Mysid shrimp soaked in DT's phytoplankton 1 day and the next day live brine shrimp <SO you are feeding everyday? That's a bit much, 2 times a week is almost more than enough. The first food item you mentioned is fine, the brine shrimp is nutritionally void unless it is freshly hatched and even so I can think of some other foods I would rather utilize.> , is this good to keep it thriving <For now, this animal has a large potential, the diameter will be larger than your tank is wide. Use a more varied regime of food like squid, krill and chopped silver sides.> . 45 gallon tank with 165 watts of lighting 1 daylight and one antic blue. <Lighting is marginal for this animal, I would use x2, 10K bulbs and change the bulbs every 6 to 9 months.> Thanks in advanced <Sure.> --Sbatiste <Adam J.> Carpet Anemone Care and its
snacks….I mean tank mates 12/1/2005 I purchased a green
carpet from my LFS today after observing it for 3 weeks (I had hoped
this would serve as a pseudo-QT) <Well as I'm sure you know
animals are best quarantined in a closed system for personal
observation. This was a risk even if a small one.> It was slowly
acclimated and looked beautiful (about 9 in. across) and had dug into
the substrate, but mere hours later it had everted its mouth, and a
couple hours later it deflated <<Better described as a
"prolapse", rather than an inversion.
Marina>> <Normal, they expel the water within them and
take on new water..> to about 3 inches. After reading previous
entries I did a 5gal H2O change, and increased water flow (as
recommended in the Reef Aquarium vol 2). <Good but I would keep a
more discipline water change regime, at least 10% weekly on a reef
tank.> It is a beautiful creature and I will feel awful to see it
perish in my tank (which I always thought would be less stressful than
a dealers), is there anything else I can do? <Just provide pristine
conditions. And feed meaty foods of marine origin once a week. I hope
you have done your research on these animals as they are quite hard to
sustain in home aquaria.> 90 gal tank, 15 gal sump/ planted refugium
wet/dry filter; aggressor skimmer <That sounds good.> Fish: 8
Chromis, 2 ocellaris, dragon goby, bicolor blenny,& fairy wrasse
various small hermit crabs, snails, blue linckia, royal urchin, crocea
clam toadstool leather, Montiporas, xenia, & mushrooms
<Hmm…well one thing is for sure, in your research you
overlooked compatibility. Most of your fish are at high risk for
becoming snacks for your new anemone and your sessile inverts are all
in danger as well. This anemone can reach 3 feet in diameter and will
sting anything it touches…including you. The anemone was not a
great addition as far as tank mates.> salinity: 1.023 ammonia : 0
nitrite: 0 nitrate: 20-25 ppm <These need to be much lower, less
than 10 in a reef tank. Keep up on the water changes.> pH 8.3 temp:
78-80 I use instant Ocean salt and Kent Coral Accel, Coral Vite and
Essential Elements, and Weiss' Combo Vital at 1/2 recommended dose
due to a light coral load. <<I suggest you do a bit of
research regarding the efficacy of the Weiss products as well.
Marina>> <What type of lighting do you have? Read here for
more detail on care for your new animal: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/cptanemfaqs.htm
> Thank you, Denise <Welcome, Adam J.> Carpet Anemone Feeding I have a question regarding feeding anemones. I saw a gorgeous white short tentacle carpet anemone, <None are naturally white... yours is bleached... has lost its endosymbiotic zooxanthellae> I later identified it as a Merten's carpet. I purchased it 3 months ago, it was under 2 inches in diameter, <Tiny!> I started off feeding it every 3 days with vitamin enriched brine shrimp. After two months or so the anemone doubled in size. It was big enough that I could feed it goldfish, which I have been doing for the past month. It stings them into submission, and devours them whole. It does not regurgitate the food and it is ready to eat again in a few days. It has quite the appetite too, I feed my clowns a frozen full spectrum food, with a little something for every fish, and it catches and consumes some of that. It is now over 7 inches in diameter ( I know they grow much larger and I can't wait) very sticky, very responsive to light. But reading your articles on keeping anemones, it doesn't sound like the goldfish are a good idea, and could potentially cause the little guy more harm then good. <Yes> I was wondering if I should stop with the goldfish, and go back to Mysis/brine shrimp, or maybe kill the gold fish and cut them up first. <Or silversides, cockles, many other choices... I would drop the goldfish> Also I noticed it snagged my black ocellaris clown and after a few shakes from the fish it let go. Is feeding it live fish making it more aggressive? Thanks in advance. <Possibly. Bob Fenner> Re: New Set Up of Established Tank... Accommodating a Carpet Anemone in Bare-bottom Dear Bob, <Jason> Thanks for the feedback ... <Welcome> As a follow-up to the previous question, with a bare bottom MAIN tank, how should I handle my existing green magnificent carpet anemone? I mean, there is no sand!! <Mmm, if it were me, mine, I would make a sand bed area for this animal... likely an all plastic or glass Pyrex cooking "pan"... with fine, calcareous sand (likely crushed coral)... that though it might look funky, will serve as substrate for this purpose> Option 1: just place it on glass bottom. Option 2: just place it on flat piece of rocks Option 3: place it in a shallow plate with sand ... BUT might have issues with... <This one> a. sand spilling over to the bare bottom glass. b. detritus collecting in the sand within the shallow plate. c. anemone growing larger than the plate allow! Currently, it is already 1 foot across, and I heard it can be as large as 3 feet!! <But base of foot/pedicle is only size concern... other issues not a big deal> I really want to try out a bare bottom tank. However, the anemone is the ONLY reason why I am thinking otherwise! Please advice, and thank you again. Jason <I would go the above route. Bob Fenner> Carpet Anemone...LFS's conflicting stories To the
wonderful crew at WWM, <Hello there> This is the first time
I've e-mailed to ask a question, I have limited access to a
computer but have researched as much as I can on the following topic,
but my specific questions weren't answered. I do apologize if I
missed the answer to my questions.... I did try to read as much as I
could! <Good> My husband's co-worker was given a short
notice re-assignment and needed to move right away. He had a 55 gal
fish tank. We currently have a 180 gallon and a 200 gallon fish-only
aquariums. We've had these set-up for almost 2 years and have done
well with them. Anyways, his co-worker knew we had aquariums and was in
need of selling his fish. I'm fine with fish, but these were two
black Percs that came with what he told us was a white Atlantic carpet
anemone. <... Atlantic Carpet...?> He had already sold the
aquarium and the live rock to another co-worker, he couldn't find
anyone he trusted to purchase the Percs and the anemone (they come as a
group). My husband said we would take them....we purchased a SeaClear
System II 30 gallon show aquarium (built-in wet/dry filtration)...
<Do keep your eye on water quality with this system... as you will
know, the SeaClear integral filter systems are undersized, trouble to
work on/with... better to look into either adding other gear on,
basically ignoring the II gear, or get another rig altogether>
...just for them, no plans to add any other livestock. We worked a deal
with the LFS to hold on to the fish/anemone until the tank was cycled.
I've never dealt with a tank this small.... we let the tank cycle
with a half bag of crushed coral and one 20lb bag of live sand and
about 15lbs of pre-cured live rock for about 5 weeks. (the sand bed is
about 4" deep) The anemone was added to the tank 3 weeks ago (with
the Percs). Up to this point he's been on top of the rock that
he's been on (he was moved into the LFS's tank, and then into
my tank on the same piece of rock....he never did move from that spot
on the rock from the original tank!) The tank is 30 gallons
(36"x 12" x16 high) and he was about 4 inches from the top of
the tank. The LFS does free water testing and always tells me my water
parameters are perfect. 3 days ago my anemone moved for the first time
to under the rock, away from the light. His white color turned mostly
brown and his usually short plump tentacles turned longer and
stringy...he looked as though he was barely hanging onto the rock. The
LFS is telling me that I may have too much light for my white
anemone.... <Mmm, highly unlikely... the brown color change is
actually a step in the right direction> ...but from everything
I've read on your site and others, I'm a bit confused on
lighting for my specific anemone. <Mmm, me too... actually re the
species identification outright... there are indeed some
"carpet" anemones from the tropical West Atlantic... and
Clownfishes will at times/places establish symbiotic relations with
some of these... but...> The previous owner stated that they had
regular lights (whatever that means) and the LFS had normal (old/poor
quality) lights. We purchased a Dual Satellite Compact which Includes
Dual Daylight 6,700?K/10,000?K and Dual Actinic 420nm/460nm bulbs. I
turn the actinic on about 1100am, the daylight on about noon and turn
off the daylight about 11pm and turn off the actinic around midnight,
when the actinic goes off the lunar light stays on for another 2 hours
(ish, whenever my puppies wake me up). This has been the routine since
we took them home. Sorry I'm rambling, I just want what's best
for the anemone...the Percs seem to be doing fine and the anemone does
look a little better, he is still eating and his tentacles have plumped
up a bit, but he is still brownish. (I feed a variety of food...squid,
plankton, Mysis, formula 1 and 2, Special VHO, gamma, salt-water
multipack stuff too...all soaked in Selcon or Vita-Chem). I don't
currently have a skimmer, still looking for one a good one...any
suggestions? <Many... a small Remora (Aqua-C) highest> I've
seen what "not to buy" listed on your site! If you could
please advise on the lighting I would greatly appreciate it.
<What you have/state is fine for all species possible... I would
switch out one of the actinics to another "white" lamp in
future> Also, my LFS is a fairly new business, the old FS packed up
and moved away. They tell me that the only pertinent tests are
PH, Nitrate, Nitrite and Oxygen....I am planning on getting my own test
kit soon since we now have the anemone. Could there be another
factor contributing to my anemone's behavior? Any advice you have
would be greatly welcomed. <I would add alkalinity and
phosphate to the above test kit list... The behavior you have described
is fine... water quality may be slipping per the small volume,
inadequate filtration...> Thank you and have a wonderful day, New
Anemone Owner :) PS - sorry about the length of this
e-mail...just trying to give some background! <Delightful to read.
Pleased to meet with another intelligent, sensitive fishkeeping person.
Bob Fenner> Carpet anemone and green star polyps Hello! I have been reading the FAQs trying to find some info. I recently bought a green carpet anemone. It was very sticky when I bought it but has lost much of its stick. I have it in a tank with two types of green star polyp (I think one is Briareum and the other is Pachyclavularia) some mushrooms, a small colony of zoanthids and two clownfish. When the lights are off the anemone opens up and looks fine. When the lights are on the anemone shrinks down and its mouth is partly open. All tests are in the perfect ranges, pH 8-8.6, ammonia 0, nitrites 0, calcium 425, KH 11. Nitrates are slightly higher then I would like but not too bad (waiting to get a new test kit as the one I am using is old and may not be giving me correct readings). I have 6 watts per gal of PC lights. What could be the problem? Could it be chemical warfare from the green star? I have read that they can be aggressive. The anemone is nowhere near the green star. Everything else in the tank is doing fine. Please help!!! <Six watts PC per gallon? A lot depends on the depth of your tank. These anemones are difficult to keep with all conditions good, and they do much better under halide lighting. Even with a shallower tank, 6 watts/gallon really isn't enough for these guys to thrive for any length of time. Please read, http://www.wetwebmedia.com/anemlgtgfaq3.htm. James (Salty Dog)><<This is little doubt, a case of chemical incompatibility between all this cnidarian life... the size of the system is not stated, but all the water gets mixed about... I would remove this anemone, post haste, to another system. Bob Fenner>> Carpet anemone Hello! I recently, about a week and a half ago, bought a green carpet anemone (S. haddoni). When I bought it , it was very sticky. I have fed it some pieces of shrimp. It isn't as sticky as it was when I got it and isn't taking food eagerly. I have 6 watts per gallon of PC lighting over the tank. I have plenty of water flow in the tank. It has not moved from its initial position in the tank and is attached. Sometimes its mouth is slightly opened (not gapping open) and has some parts protruding slightly. Is this normal while the anemone adjusts to its new tank? If not what could be the cause? What can I do to assure the survival of the anemone or at least make a whole- hearted attempt to bring the anemone to good health? <Doug, unfortunately you selected one of the most difficult anemones to keep for any length of time. I suggest that you read the link I will post here. This should provide you with everything you're looking for. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm Good luck with your carpet. James (Salty Dog)> Carpet Anemone ID Hey Wet Web People...
<Discriminating against extraterrestrials, are we? The
shame!> I bought a carpet anemone...sadly I for once didn't look
up your website and wonder if I will regret it now. They are
cheap here in Bangkok and I got suckered in (US$8) as it looked healthy
and well coloured. <Starting off with a healthy specimen is half the
battle, but PLEASE do your research before impulse
buying! Life should not be measured by the cost of acquiring
it> I am not sure what species of carpet it is. <Most likely
Stichodactyla haddoni or Stichodactyla Gigantea...can you get a picture
of it, especially a pic of it's mouth?> The colouration is a
soft pinky burgundy base and the tentacles are light
green. Its about 7 inch wide. Also very
sticky. Is it gigantea? <See above. Stickiness
is a good sign though, make sure you feed it often> Are all carpets
fish eaters? I have seen tanks with them with fish in the
past...it's one hell of an ordeal to get LFS to take stock back
here so I am hoping not to. The tank occupants are two pipe
fish - Doryrhamphus sp.. (black snout/orange front to the body/blue
back section with a black tail with a white central patch and rim?), a
clarkii clown, and sifting goby of some variety. Other than the clown,
I am guessing they aren't the best tank mates with one of these.
<Yes they are, and expect to lose all of your fish eventually except
for the clarkii, especially the pipe fish. Do you have
adequate lighting, space, and water flow for your new
anemone? They like bright light, you will need halides or
natural sunlight to keep one long term. Make sure you keep
it well fed also, with shredded\small pieces (1\4") of fresh
seafoods> Thanks for the advice <Anytime> Brett Moloney <M.
Maddox>
Carpet anemone Hi, <How goes it?> thanks for any help you can give me on this as I read through your site and could find nothing that pertains. <Let us add something to the archive then> We have a 90 gallon reef, with mostly soft corals, a Midas blenny, assorted cleaning crew, about 120 pounds of live rock, 2 maroon clowns and a fantastic green carpet anemone we've had for about a year. Our salinity is 1.024, <might want to bump that to 1.025> our PH 8.4 and 0 ammonia, 0 nitrates, 0 nitrites. <all good> We are running a sump with a Berlin protein skimmer and a MD 40 xlt Iwaki pump. Our lighting is power compacts, 4 at 65 watts each. <Ack! Not enough light, at all...and no halides?! You need to upgrade your lighting before your anemone eventually succumbs> Since we've upgraded from a 75 gallon tank about a month ago, the anemone sucks itself down under the rocks every few days and we have to disassemble the one side of the reef to get it out. <It may just be stressed from the move> The two maroon clowns are hosting in it and it is very healthy...the mouth is firm and it eats like a horse <at least you've been feeding it a lot, as that's why it's still alive>...Mysis and Cyclop-Eeze being the main foods fed to the tank. The anemone seems completely healthy and is well taken care of by the clowns <Clowns never really take care of an anemone, besides sometimes scaring off potential predators> and never seems to be in any distress before it sucks itself down into the rocks. The foot is firmly planted and it has good color...Any way we can stop him from moving down under the rocks? <What kind of carpet anemone is it? Some like to have their foot buried in the sand, and that may be what it's trying to do> Can he get himself out again or do we have to keep up the rescue operations? <I would leave him be and watch what happens, unless it's a haddoni or another carpet species that prefers sand> He is in almost the exact same place as he was in the 75 gallon and we never had this problem then. Any help would be greatly appreciated. <Definitely look into purchase some metal halide lighting for your anemone. Slowly acclimate it to the new lighting (check our archives for how) and make sure it isn't a carpet species that prefers sand> Marcye, Orlando <M. Maddox> Another saddle carpet anemone AWOL Hi I have a issue regarding my carpet anemone. It is in a 46 gallon bow aquarium, w/ 2x96 watt VHO and 175w MH. I feed him every other day, ground up misc. seafood (shrimp, perch, squid) Mysid shrimp and occasional live brine shrimp and black worms. Water tests are fine and I did a 20% water change on Friday as I do every other week with R/O water. I test my water myself and occasionally I take samples to my LFS and everything is inside the normal range. Nitrate is usually undetectable. <How about Ca and Alk?> I've had him about 13 months. The past two weeks it has gone crazy eating fish--3 clowns, a lawn mower blenny, maybe a damsel. <All anemones are predators, and carpet anemones have some of the most powerful stings of all of them. I have lost several shrimps and a couple of fish to mine. These are definitely not community tank animals.> I now have a tank with 100 lbs of live rock, xenia and a Chromis, and one beautiful, green anemone, about 10". <Hmmm... I am a bit suspicious here. Who identified the anemone? Although green saddle anemones (Stichodactyla haddoni) do come into the aquarium trade, they are unusual. There is a similar looking Caribbean anemone that is also unusual in the trade, but (being Caribbean), is not a natural clownfish host.... and it is a vicious predator. See Delbeek and Sprung, "The Reef Aquarium, Vol 2" and/or Fautin and Allen's "Anemonefishes and their host sea anemones" to try and properly ID your anemone.> I've been pondering getting rid of him. Although I was willing to dedicate my only tank to it--I at least wanted to be able to keep some clowns or something, otherwise it just is not worth it. I've struggled, knowing that if I trade it in--most likely will not get the same level of care and lights, maybe not enough to survive. <Good to see that you are providing proper care and don't want the animal to fall into less caring hands. Your local aquarium society can be of great help here.> Today he is missing. Somehow he has berried himself under the gravel/sand in the tank. It is only 1.5" deep and he is under it. He did this all within the last hour. He has never moved before. I wondering if it is complications from eating such large food, or if he is just dying as so many anemone's long term do. Should I leave it or try to fetch it from the tank? <Both S. haddoni and the Caribbean look alike are capable of withdrawing completely into the sand (although into 1.5" is surprising) as well as wandering the tank. Be sure it is not on the move (inevitably toward a powerhead, drain or pump inlet). They do this occasionally as a response to disturbance or sometimes for no reason at all.> Honestly I'm done with anemones--everyone out there--they are too much of a pain, even if you do everything seemingly right? Thanks. Jennifer Von Canon <How very true. Just like any animal, they have specific needs and certain problems associated with their care. Unfortunately, they are exaggerated compared to many other animals. Best Regards. AdamC>
Anemone troubles? Howdy Crew, Looking for some info on Stichodactyla tapetum. Found one attached to a colony of pipe organ. I thought it was a Ricordea and chipped it off to give it (and the pipe organ) some breathing room. << No real need to chip it off. >> But when it stuck to my fingers, I thought it a bit odd an looked it up. I'm not positive but from the bit of info I did find, Stichodactyla tapetum seemed to fit the bill. The poor fellow doesn't look so happy after his move. What kind of lighting do they prefer? << Lighting is big. Lots of light, whole spectrum. Also they eat anything. I feed them krill and silversides. >> Any favorite foods? << Leftovers. >> I'd like to place the little guy ~20" directly under a 150W MH. This is~4" deeper, but more direct than where I found it. << Well it will move around. So don't get set on a particular place. >> Of course, if it's not happy it I guess it will up and move ( will it??) << Yep. >>. Thanks for your help. -matt << Blundell >> Responsible Anemone/Scallop Keeping 8/12/04 Hi there! It's
been awhile since I've had a question come up, so here I am. ;]
<we've been waiting with bells on> I recently got a deep blue
carpet anemone. I'm in love. ;] <this is an illegal relationship
in most civilized countries> It is very sticky, the foot is in
perfect condition, and it ate a chunk of food on the first
day! I have it in a tank with lots of light and very good
flow. <all good> My main question is how can you tell the
difference between S. haddoni and S. gigantea? <listen
for the accent in their speech betraying the locale of their
origin/speciation.> Do S. haddoni come in blue as well?
<yep... RIT brand dyed fresh from some charming Indo exporters> I
have two rock/flower anemones that are near the carpet (3 inches away)
but not touching. Will this be a problem? <I
expect the carpet will stress or kill these in time> Everybody seems
happy at the moment. Do pink skunk clowns take to carpet anemones?
<the answer to this question, as with the details of speciation
between anemones (like the tentacle-free distinction around the mouth
of S. haddoni) and so much more is waiting for you in our archives. We
work hard to build this database... please do make the effort to use it
and help yourself. There's a clownfish/anemone compatibility chart
ta boot: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm
be sure to follow the many other links atop these pages> I feed all
of my anemones (3 flowers, RBTA, green BTA) a mixture of live plankton
and Prime Reef/Frozen Brine shrimp by Formula foods. They
all seem very happy and are growing. Is this an acceptable
diet for the carpet anemone as well? <seem weak to me... the phyto
is of dubious value for the carnivorous anemones (they feed on
zooplankton principally)... and brine shrimp is a truly hollow food
(barely useful even if gut loaded). Please do add better variety here
with 4-6 other meats of marine origin. Shredded cocktail shrimp, Mysid
shrimp, Pacifica plankton... minced krill... and fish eggs (grouper roe
from the LFS or flying fish eggs from an Asian groceria... excellent
food for such filter feeders)> Thanks for
everything! Morgan Mok ps: Just as an update for the
naysayers and the "blind squirrel people", my red flame
scallop is over 1 1/2 years old in my system. ;p <Morgan... you do
understand that we are here to serve the greater good in the hobby? I
hope you are too. Encouraging the majority of aquarists to keep
inappropriate animals like flame scallops just because less than 1%
survive over one year is... well... irresponsible. Unless you can
clearly explain and document how yours lived to 18 months (still not
much of an accomplishment when many simply take longer to slowly starve
via a small daily deficit in nutrition as from brine shrimp feedings
over time... and all have a natural lifespan on a scale of magnitude
much longer!), let me ask... rather, beg (!) that you do not casually
promote the keeping of flame scallops or the like as if its a lottery,
and telling people the equiv. of "you might win too!". The
truth is that most lose... and these are living creatures lives lost...
not lottery tickets. Your fave naysayer, perhaps... Anthony :) > Feeding Carpet Anemone 7/26/04 I recently purchased a Stichodactyla haddoni(3 weeks) I read several articles and it was recommended to feed it fish. I at first had tried shrimp and then got some frozen silversides. <this is inaccurate and way too large IMO. Although this sightless animal will sting anything meaty/proteinaceous... they cannot consume all. They often regurgitate large food chunks at night and starve to death to the surprise of some keepers. All meaty foods need to be very fine for such anemones... like the tiny plankton they would receive in the wild. Mysid shrimp and Pacifica plankton work well for this> He grabs both and closes up around the pieces but then lets go and does not ingest them. <this is common... and not good for the anemone> I saw a snail or a hermit trapped the other night, could he have eaten that? <yes> Can they digest a small shell? <nope... regurgitate> Might he just not be hungry? <on the contrary... it needs fed weekly or more often> Do you have any other feeding suggestions? He otherwise appears OK. He has dug a nice hole on the edge of the LR and inflates to about 6". Retracts fine and is very "sticky". Tank is 75g, sg 1.026, 79 F, Alk 3.5, Ph 8.2, 2 x 175 MH and 2 x 96 CF. Thanks. <all good. Anthony> Carpet anemone question Hello, <Hi> I am a frequent reader and this is my first time submitting a question to you guys. I was interested in purchasing a carpet anemone for my false Percula. I currently have a 30 gallon tank with 25 lbs. of live rock some mushroom corals and a blue devil damsel also about a 3.5 in. sand bed tank has been running for almost two years for filtration I have a CPR USA Bak Pak protein skimmer and biofilter it is powered by a Maxijet 1200 295gph and I have a Rio 90 for circulation. As for my lighting I currently have a Coralife 65 watt 50/50 10000k and actinic. I also have 3 20 watt minis at 6700k, and 2. 20 watt 10 wpf fluorescent bulbs one actinic and one 10000k a total of 165 watts. my water parameters are steady. my question is, in your opinion with the information that I have provided, would it be safe for me to invest in a carpet anemone for my clown. <My concerns are two fold on the anemone. I am very concerned about how big they get. They are known to get huge. Secondly they put out a lot of waste and that could be a very big problem in a 30 gallon tank.> I would really enjoy watching him swim in it. thank you for your time. Oh one more thing do you think I have enough light to keep (SPS) and (LPS) corals in my tank. <The general rule for SPS and LPS is about 4 watts per gallon. In my opinion its also about spectrum, and making sure you have the correct spectrums for what you wish to keep.> Stichodactyla haddoni coloring Hello All, <hello! Ryan with you> Foremost, thanks for your site. I have a simple question. I have a Stichodactyla haddoni. <Common name Haddon's Sea Anemone, for the search engine> Oddly he/she/it is yellow...a somewhat large (about the "flat" size of a new pencil) <Gotcha> Its yellow...not green. I have it in a 85G with two true Perc's. The tank is 3yrs old w/120 lbs of LR Water Q. is excellent. The light I'm giving it (I did research prior) is from PC's 2x96 watt 10K 2x36 watt 10K 2x36 Actinic TW=336 watts /85= 3.95 WPG <somewhat on the lower side of anemone requirements, but I'm sure he would move to a higher level in the tank if it wasn't reasonable> Bulbs are changed every 180 days. Why hasn't it changed to green ( I heard yellow is the "its not getting sufficient light color")? <Hmmm....some of these creatures are a more yellow/brown in their tone. You may just have one that isn't predisposed to a green tint. Color is often indicative of which part of the reef they were collected.> The little tentacles sparkle and move around.. it seems happy, never moves. <Then I would say he will be more beautiful in time, but don't have your heart set on green. I encourage you to feed a variety of foods- and fresh if possible. Bob has a recipe in CMA that works very well, and will only benefit your tenants. Good luck, Ryan> A tad of insight please. Thanks. Blue Carpet Anemone I am interested in purchasing the blue
carpet anemone. The literature I have on it says it is for experts
only. I have been experimenting with several different things in my 180
gal. tank and have been quite successful. This anemone is quite
expensive and I don't want to try it if the chances are too slim of
it surviving. What do you think about it? Although I read through wet
web media very often, this is my first time asking a question so please
bare with me. If any other information is needed please et me know.
<Please send along all of your info, what type and how much
lighting, other tank inhabitants, water params... These guys
definitely take some special attention and pristine water
conditions. I would also (if you haven't already) try
some of the hardier anemones such as the bubble
tip. Cody>Thanks, Carol & Tom Lighting a S. haddoni Hi,<Hello, Ryan with you today> I am wondering if I have enough lighting to support the anemone. I believe that it is a S. Haddoni as it is bright green with stubby tentacles and it is about 10" or so across. We have a 90 gal community reef 48x24x24 with a wave shaped front. Our current lighting is 2, 40w 03 actinics, 2, 65w pc SmartLite bulbs, and 2, 10000K 65w pc bulbs all in 48" hooded design. Is this enough to sustain the anemone. <Almost 4 watts per gallon...I'd say he has a good chance of success> Currently it has moved from where I originally placed it about 3/4 the way up in the tank to about the 1/2 point or even a little lower. <He'll move again> It at least is facing the front of the tank and looks totally awesome. It is curled and tends to swell way up and go down every 10 to 15 min at first but lately it does it about every hour. Since I put it in the tank yesterday it may still be adjusting to the tank. water quality is good probably thanks to 100# of live rock and two Eheim pro II 92 gal tank filters with a remora hang on skimmer. <Great, feed him chopped clams, shrimp, etc. Good luck! Ryan> Any help will be appreciated as I am a rookie. Kevin Carpet Issues? >Hi everyone, >>Hello Andrea. Marina here. >I hate to do this but I am truly worried about the carpet anemone I got about 5 days ago. >>What do you hate to do? Ask a question or three? It's why we're here! >I have a 100 gal tank with approx 125 lbs LR and a 2 1/2-3 inch LS bed. It has a Remora pro skimmer, a canister filter and multiple power heads. The inhabitants are: 3 pajama cardinals, 1 algae blenny, 1 mandarin goby, 1 Percula clown, 1 stripped shrimp goby of some sort, 1 fairy wrasse, various types of polyps, a bubble tip anemone, a smaaaallll piece of gorgonian (less than an inch), various types of mushrooms and now a carpet anemone and the crab that lives on it. Oh yes, and a couple of hermit crabs and a billion baby snails. >>Ok. >It has looked fine up until the day before yesterday when my husband forgot to turn on the lights in the morning. We had a timer system, then he got me a Coralife light with 2 10,000K and 2 actinic bulbs that wouldn't work with the timer (too powerful for it) and the lights were off until about noon when I came home. >>This is absolutely NOT a problem. The problem with carpet anemones is much more so that they seem to do dismally poorly in home systems (require pristine water quality, from what I understand feeding is more important than lighting, though lighting IS important). >The anemone was lying on its side for hours but finally stood up again by the end of the day. >>It is not unusual for any anemone to spend a few hours to a full day, day and a half deflated and looking as though they're recovering from a bender. >Now it has laid down on its side a couple of times since then, and at this moment it is slumped over its rock and is totally deflated! >>It is at this point that I'm more concerned about water quality, HOWEVER, you are not outside the window of normal behavior, especially if you do directly feed. (Have you seen it exuding waste? Does it appear to be disintegrating anywhere at all?) >I feed a mixture of frozen Mysis shrimp, BioPlankton and invert food but it has never really looked like it has eaten anything that I can tell. >>Try chunks of fish, squid, krill, shrimp. These anemones have such powerful nematocysts precisely to catch and kill larger creatures. >The tank is 24" tall and it is on the sand bed. >What am I doing wrong? >>See above, test results are important, and when in doubt, DO A WATER CHANGE. (That's my mantra, along with QUARANTINE) >My bubble tip has done so well that it has split about 5 times since I got it more than 3 years ago. >>Wow, well it's good to know that you're not completely new at this anemone thing, but BTAs are a bit easier than carpets. >I am totally at my wits end. please help...it would be sooo appreciated. thanks in advance. Andrea Brown >>Don't panic just yet, remember, all animals are shipped in darkness, this DEFINITELY won't cause harm, especially only a few hours' worth. Try the feeding, and do watch the water quality closely. Marina Carpet Anemone with crab problems - 12/9/03 oh yeah, your reply on the carpet.... no nibbling from the crabs. I had a large crab, and it took a huge chunk out of it, as well as swallowed a feather duster one lonely night. <Hmmm. What kind of crab??> As you might think, the large crab is no longer with me......<understood if you are sure the crab was a the likely suspect> Since then (about 4 weeks), the carpet anemone has stared growing it's tentacles back. <Fantastic! ~Paul> GR Carpet anemone problem 11/26/03 I just bought a carpet anemone two days ago and today it started to form a bubble in its mouth and its body didn't look so good it was kind of leaning over and my boyfriend thought it was dying but I told him to leave it in the tank just to see what would happen but I wanted to know is that normal to get an anemone and have the mouth puff up or no. I need to know so I don't come home and have everything in my tank dead please write back thanks Lori <hmm... the symptom does not elicit any specific concern with me. Let me guide you to our articles and FAQs where something might catch your attention: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm please notice the many links at the top of this page to follow for ever so much more information. Best regards, Anthony> Anemone questions 10/18/03 Hi Bob, Anthony, et able... <Hola> I have read a lot of different things on your site about anemones and inverts, amongst other topics and much of what you say makes sense, and some things you have spoke about I have experienced first hand. I hope you can forgive me for the length of this, but there is a lot to tell you so you can better answer my questions as I have many. <Okey-dokey> I have a haddoni carpet, and I must say it has been through a lot of things, but in the year and a half I have had it, I am pleased to say it has grown from when I bought it. <FWIW, do realize that many anemones and corals appear to "grow" but instead are simply panning for light as bulbs age and water clarity darkens from lack of weekly carbon/ozone over time (months)> If you could get the thing to lay flat, the diameter would be somewhere around 9-10 inches (or what I can ascertain through the glass with a tape measure) and it was around 7 inches before when I got it. Despite my success on that aspect, and given the fact that many hobbyists can't keep a given species of one of these creatures for that long, my success has not been without problems in between. Here is October, since May or so I have had some problems with my tank, and my anemone "seems" to be OK, and I don't know if the way it has been acting was due to any single one thing or a combination of problems. When I moved from FL to where I am now, I put everything in 5 gallon buckets, and from an 80+ temp, the water temp dropped to a chilly 68. I noticed some white spots around the crown of my anemone, and I was scared as I knew this was not good. I immediately got my tank setup, started the power heads to get some O2 going, and of course turn the heater on. The anemone started to settle in its place in the tank, and it would move around, so it did survive. It took some time for the tissue to heal, and in time its tentacles even came back. <good to hear> When it eats now, I notice as parts of the crown (that were damaged) act as arms, and that part of the anemone inflates to grab food, it looks clear, and the tentacles tend to disappear. However at rest, you could not tell that there was damage to the same parts of the crown. Other parts of the crown that were not damaged sometimes appear to be the same in appearance, so I wonder if the damage done is permanent, or its just going to take forever to heal? <it will heal in time> Is it just my imagination and I am in panic mode? It took a few weeks or so for it to look normal and as each day went, it showed improvement. It ate like you would not believe. <healing an reproduction tend to be slow in these animals> After that, I had another issue. The center of the critter inflated like the oral disc does during feeding, but I was not feeding. At the time I added a sebae clown to it, and I noticed this swell. Time went on, it got worse and not better. I did a water change, and it got worse quicker. I had 4 theories as to the cause of this, 1 was reproduction as I was seeing signs consistent with what is noted in the breeders registry and my water params are close to what Dr. Shimek (sp) has (which I know you disagree with), <indeed... high reef temps are dangerous to recommend to most aquarists.> the other theory was infection from my sick clown I just added, <nope... not communicable to this/any cnidarian> and the third theory said the classic Ca/alk issue, <irritating if inconsistent> and the 4th said I over fed the thing. This thing has at times eaten as much as a quarter of a pound of cleaned squid in a week! <this is a common mistake... feeding chunks that are too large. Harmful to even some large anemones. Fine minced meats akin to phytoplankton only please> Possibility 1 is rare, so I was not leaning so much towards that. I figured later on that a spoonful of fish for a critter twice the size of mine a day was sufficient let alone a quarter pound of squid a week. I then decided to explore the other theory of the Ca and alk problem. My a was off the test kit chart, my alk was next to nothing, and my pH was in the high 7's, and had been for a while. <yikes!> So I figured this could be the issue, <don't make this a habit> and as far as eating, the thing could not take in food as much as it wanted to because the oral disc or gut was so inflated it was unreal. <there is also the matter of the clownfish itself simply being irritating. There is no benefit to keeping a clownfish in well fed anemones. Some are quite irritating> After a few weeks I got my alkalinity under control and eased up on the Ca considerably, and all appears to be well on that. My alk is around 9 dKH, and Ca unknown. The coralline is growing, so something must be right. So anyway, this thing is still inflated to hell, and it is not getting better but worse. The oral disc and the lips for lack of a better description inflated to softball size. I read some things on the breeders registry that said for that specimen consistent with what I was seeing. My critter stood erect, and the softball size inflation was consistent with this. I also noted that a nylon or silky looking substance was excreted from the oral disc, and it was tilted at an angle as it excreted this. These findings have been documented in the breeders registry for male specimens of haddoni carpets in captivity. <understood/agreed> My water parameters were the same as noted, and after the excrement, the tissue began to shrink. <stress induced perhaps?> It took some time for the tissue to shrink and get back to normal, and then my lights went. I replaced 3 of my bulbs (240W of fluoros for a 55 gallon), so that was about half of my lighting. I upgraded from 1 actinic blue and 2 10,000K bulbs to 2 18,000K bulbs, and one appears to be a 6500K but I thought it was a 18,000K bulb. <if your lamps were over 10 months old... I assure you that this was the biggest stress of all, and contributory to the size of your anemone/growth> It showed an increased amount of improvement after a brief color change after this. It then looked a little pale in color until I moved a rock to let it open more, and its color came back really fast. The mouth on it is still open, but I can see the gut is closed, and lately the mouth is not nearly as open as it was, and I would not consider it to be gaping. It seems to be more narrow and more elongated. I am thinking this could be a sign of it closing. It is sticky and it has accepted smaller feedings of cleaned squid for the past few days now. It is more open than it has been in a while. It seems to be closing more with the clown than before, but it is not totally closed. Is this normal with symbiotes? <I question just how symbiotic the relationship is in many. Studies I have read show that less than half of all anemones that can host clowns even do. Again, not needed and possibly a source of irritation> I have also noticed in the past when it would not eat that there seems to be a direct correlation between the stickiness and the correct alkalinity of my water. What have your experiences been on that aspect? <no but interesting> I am also noticing that some tentacles are becoming significantly larger than usual or in comparison with the rest. The tentacles near the oral disc look like baby tentacles of a Condy anemone. Is this a sign of growth perhaps? <perhaps> When these things grow, do they grow from the crown out or how? <fissionary indeed> I see no other abnormalities with my critter. I am seeing larger folds in it when it sits in the tank, and depending on how it folds when it eats, I can see another cyclical fold on occasion. I can only presume that it is starting to grow even further, but it will take some months before there is anything more measurable. As far as tank parameters go, this is a 55 gallon Berlin filtration tank and I have experimented with Dr. Shimek's advice with no real adverse affects that I can contribute to the temp issue. <heehee... other than low dissolved oxygen and a sick looking anemone on a tank with a weak skimmer and a high DOC level. Sorry... I couldn't resist <G>> I have a DSB, about 50 lbs of LR, 240W of fluoros, a Sea Clone 100 hang on skimmer, and 4 300gph power heads. My water temp used to be near 86, I have since backed it down to about 84, and everything in that tank has been like that for over a year now. The SG is typically between 1.026-1.028 pending evap, pH between 8.3-8.4, alk yesterday was 9dKH and in excess of 15dKH today (but I expect that will erode tomorrow as my lights will go off, and we know what happens). <ahhh... got the dKH. Now... your RO water is definitely admitting minerals... or... your test kit is inaccurate... or ... you are adding way too much buffer> I have never had a nitrate or ammonia problem since I moved the tank, but after that I have not had that issue. The fish look great, the clown is no longer sick, and the anemone looks really good now as it ever has for the most part. I am trying to get your insight at least on my anemone, and I know you don't agree with what Dr. Shimek says, however I have found some catches to it, and both your site and Shimek make valid and even overlapping points. If you do use a warmer temp (which I used as his haddoni carpet has bred in captivity in like water params), you can have a disaster if you don't do other things correctly. However, if you keep your alk in check along with your Ca, that is one issue. The other issue is that you need some very serious current. As both you and Shimek point out, the rate of metabolism doubles with every 10 degrees centigrade increase in temp relative to a given temp. <but why would you want to speed up an animals metabolism in a closed aquarium system with low DO and high DOCs not to mention a tank that is honestly too small for this animals and the amount of food fed/attempted each week plus other livestock. Add to this the high salinity (even lower DO/oxygen) and you have a problem IMO> To compensate for such, you need more current to accommodate the speed of which the processes of your biological filtration are metabolizing at. If you don't, yes you will have a disaster on your hands. My anemone is still growing, but as I have stated problems have come about. Luckily I intervened to prevent it from dying. I am just wondering what (if any) long term affects may be, or if there is not enough information to say either way. <shorter lifespans too for the higher water temps> Thanks for reading my novel of an email and in advance for your opinion. Thank You, Joseph <very thoughtful Joseph... wishing you the best of luck. Anthony> |
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