FAQs about Stands, Supports for
Aquariums: DIY
Related Articles: Aquarium Stands, Marine
Tanks, Canopies, Covers &
Lighting Fixtures,
Related FAQs: Aquarium Stands 1, Aquarium Stands 2, What to Use, About
Floors Underneath, Finishing/Coating, Commercial, Leveling, Modification, Repair, & Tanks, Tanks 2,
Tanks 3, Tanks 4, Aquarium
Repair 1, Acrylic Aquarium
Repair, Used Aquarium
Gear,
PLENTY of room underneath
for gear, manipulation. JasonC's set-up in FLA
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Two birds with one stone. Stand/tank minor gap, cleaning old dry
LR 9/16/16
Hi WWM Crew,
<Hey Eddie>
As always I am eternally grateful to you all for your patient assistance.
Your website is a treasure trove of aquarium knowledge. Every time I visit I
come away richer. I have been “dry” for almost four years now, but still
considering myself a part of the saltwater hobby. I’m getting ready to get
“wet” again, and I have a LOT of questions to ask so that I do it right this
time. I’ve been studying WWM (and other sources) for several years, but
often with greater learning comes only more finely honed questions. Today I
have two sets of such questions. I guess this is a “two birds with one
stone” type email.
<Let's see>
It’s been a while since I have asked a question, and I have been busy. I’ve
been at work building a stand for my 75 gallon tank.
<I see this in your pic. REALLY like the fastener pattern>
I wanted to do this stand right because my last stand (for my old 55 gallon)
was not made right and eventually resulted in the catastrophic failure of
the bottom of the tank. I did a ton of research on how to do it, and this
(picture) is what I came up with. I’m kind of proud of it. What you see is
the finished frame for the stand. I have already treated it with spar
urethane. I also have some quarter inch oak plywood and trim that I will use
to “skin” it (and I’ll treat that with urethane as well). While I’m working
on the skin though, I thought I would go ahead and use the frame of the
stand for a water test on my tank. It’s a slightly used glass tank with an
offset overflow (as you can see from where the cutout in the stand top is
located).
<Good idea>
The stand frame is level, and when I sat the tank on it found that it is
almost perfectly planar. On one side there was a tiny gap running several
inches where I could slide a driver’s license fairly snugly.
<This is with the tank empty? I'd fill it; see if the gap
diminishes/disappears>
At widest I would estimate it to be 1/32nd of an inch. The reason for this
is something I found out after I built the stand, but something that I’ll
pass on to any DIY-ers who read this FAQ. When boards (2x4’s, etc.) are
planed, often the very end of the board is slightly thinner than the
rest—from where it tilts slightly under its own weight coming out of the
planer. It would be wise when working with wood to cut off the last inch or
two off the end of the board to avoid this (like for the top side rails of
an aquarium stand). This is the reason for that slight dip.
<Ahh!>
I was going to use Styrofoam anyway, which brings me to my first series of
questions. I bought some ¼ inch Styrofoam sheets from Lowe’s that are 4 feet
long. I was not thinking about the fact that my stand is 48 and ½ inches
long—so the Styrofoam will not cover the entire bottom of the stand. Will
the Styrofoam “spread out” under the weight to cover this gap?
<Mmm, not likely; no>
Or (because the tank has a floating bottom) should I cut the Styrofoam into
strips—say 2 inches wide? I could have two 48 X 2 inch strips and two 18 ½ X
2 inch strips (trimmed to fit together at the corners).
<I would cut such a strip; to cover the entire 48.5" base>
I got several sheets of the Styrofoam, and I planned to use some for the
test fill (which will last a week or two at least—it will be out of the way
in the basement), and then replace it when I set up the tank. Is it even
necessary to use it for the test fill?
<I would risk filling w/o w/ the small gap you're experiencing; but if you
feel uncomfortable, insert the foam.>
I don’t want to do ANYTHING to weaken the tank (after what happened before).
<Understood>
The second series of questions has to do with my old live rock. I had about
50lbs of live rock in the old tank when it failed. I put it in five gallon
buckets (dry) and it has been sitting in my basement for almost 4 years. The
buckets have been open to whatever dust has settled on them (and whatever
bugs or rodents might have crawled over them). I want to use this rock as
base rock, and reseed it with some fresh live rock for the new tank.
<I would do this>
I read through the live rock FAQs again yesterday (2nd time through) and I’m
not sure whether I need to soak these rocks in water with bleach or if it
would be better just to rinse them.
<I'd at least blast them with a hose... No need to bleach likely>
I got the impression from the FAQs that bleaching is needed if the rocks had
something on them you didn’t want (like BGA or crypt, etc.). This was not
the case with mine. I was planning on bleaching them anyway—because they had
been dead so long and sitting in the basement, but a friend told me it would
be better to rinse them off and use them as they are—that anything dead in
them will help the tank cycle.
<I agree w/ your friend>
Do I need to bleach them? Would it be better not to bleach them?
<No bleach>
Thank you so much for all your help,
Eddie
<A pleasure to share. Do please send along a photo of the stand, set up as
it progresses. Bob Fenner>
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Stand; what to use; leveling f's
3/15/16
Hey Bob,
<Ditto>
Separate topic, 50/50 split on research so far.
For a 180 gallon MarineLand tank, that has a rim it sits in, I built a
2x2 inch square aluminum stand for it. It is very level, no deflections
or low spots.
<Impressive!>
Would you still use plywood in between stand and tank?
<Mmm... yes>
The manufacturer stand made of wood just has the trim border, not solid
piece. Half the people I have asked said you just need to support the
trim, which is the part of tank that touches.
<This is so>
Others have said plywood would help distribute weights.
What's your thoughts?
<Well; the ply, foam... something other than metal in the frame, will
give a little bit... sometimes enough to save glass to glass
mal-interaction and significantly reduce torsional problems.
Thanks, bob
<Welcome! Bob Fenner>
Large Tank Stand Construction
9/30/14
I am having a contractor build me a stand for a 250 gallon in -
wall salt tank. He is framing / supporting the weight using 2x4
<Mmm; not what I would do... IF making/fashioning of wood, the uprights
should be four by fours>
and plans on running 2 plywood pieces across the top. Since the tank is
glass and has multiple areas that are plumbed through the bottom, is
there any issue with this design?
<Uhh, no... cut our round holes for the through-puts in the bottom...>
Certainly he will cut out access areas in the plywood for plumbing, but
I have read mixed reviews online about leveraging plywood under the
tank.
The intended purpose was to assist with weight distribution, however I'm
unsure if this will jeopardize the integrity of the glass or create
concerns down the road with the plywood getting wet.
<With enough/sufficient support of the ply underneath... good screws
connecting through it every eight-twelve inches... s/b fine>
Your feedback would be much appreciated.
Jeffrey
<Do have a read through here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/aqstands.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Re: Large Tank Stand Construction
9/30/14
Thank you for your prompt feedback.
<Welcome>
I will tell the contractor that he should use 4x4 for the supports.
Should the plywood be treated or painted to protect against damage from
the salt water?
<... yes; assuredly. Please read where you were referred to>
I also read on your site, many references of placing Styrofoam between
the plywood and the tank. Is this recommended for glass tanks or is this
only used when the tank requires leveling?
<Yes. BobF>
re: Large Tank Stand Construction
9/30/14
Thanks Bob. I spent a good amount of time this evening reading the many
posts on the links you provided. I can't seem to find an explanation of
the benefits to adding Styrofoam on top of the plywood to support the
tank.
The only references I found spoke about existing Styrofoam that was
damaged and another instance to slightly level a tank.
Could you explain why & if I should have my contractor install Styrofoam
above the plywood, as my concern is that the foam would have some "give"
and may cause leveling issues versus the glass being placed directly on
the plywood. If I didn't mention it already it's a 250 gallon glass
aquarium predrilled on both rear corners.
<Depending on the construction of the tank itself, and the surety of the
level and planar qualities of the ply, you may well not find Styrofoam
useful. B>
Perfecto 125 Silicone Question
2/17/14
Hello WetWeb!! I recently purchased a new Perfecto reef ready 125
gallon aquarium. I built the stand for it which is level and square.
<Looks neat, clean... is there going to be a mid/front support? Maybe it's
not been installed yet; to allow fitting of the sump>
(Shimmed on a not so level floor). The front span of the stand
is unsupported,
<Mmm; I would over this six foot run...>
I used three 2x4's side by side which were tied to each other with screws
and 5 lag screws. The rear side is a single 2x4 supported every 20
inches. I used a 3/4" sheet of hardwood plywood on top of the stand to
help disperse the load to the frame. When I test filled the tank
there was a small gap, approximately 1/16" between the plywood and the tank.
<Yes; I don't like this>
The stand measured the correct height at the center span and at the ends so
I figured that the gap could be a combination of the tank plastic and my
stand and it would be corrected as the tank and stand settled.
<Not likely>
Well, when I filled the tank (perhaps a bit too quickly), the stand did
not shift. It appeared to hold its shape and all of the dimensions
that I had measured previously. I could not find 1/16" of change
anywhere on the stand. I continued filling the tank, and foolishly did
not pay close enough attention to the gap (of all measurements to ignore).
The gap did not grow, but it didn't shrink.
Only after the tank was full did I notice some changes in the silicone.
Tiny bubbles formed in the silicone. They ran horizontal and split
like spider cracks, maybe 3/16" of an inch long and all of them stopped 1/8"
or more from the outside of the seam. It kind of reminded me of
acrylic crazing. Most of the bubbles were in these spider lines, but
were also apparent as tiny individual bubbles. I thought this to be a
peeling effect that silicone does when its in tension. Reminded me of
pulling out baffles from a sump. In a panic, I immediately started
draining the tank (forgetting to take any pictures). The bubbles
immediately went away as I drained the tank and left no evidence to be
found. While I did not remember to take pictures, I was able
to find a picture online that almost exactly resembles what I saw on my
tank.
<...>
The bubbles started a few inches from the bottom and top of the tank on
both of the front seams. I could not see if they were present on the
back side. So my questions are, have you seen this happen on
new tanks?
<Yes>
Do you think that the tank is safe to use, assuming I correct the stand
such that it supports the entire perimeter of the tank?
<... I would put in the mid/front support... I really don't like the
bubbles; poor workmanship... but the tank is likely fine>
Since I did not observe any shifting in the stand, I'm not really sure
what I should do to fix it. I'd like to maintain the unsupported font
span if possible, so my plan was to replace the front and rear 2x4's with
2x6's for added assurance and give the stand an extra run through
(square/level/planar). How would you recommend I modify the stand?
<See above>
Would you recommend using foam underneath the tank in addition to structural
repair?
<Nope>
Thank you so much!
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
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Aquarium stand <DIY q.> and tank 6/7/13
Hello and good day. I used your site in the past when setting up my first
reef tank with excellent results due to your great advice. I am now setting
up my second one. I will be using a 40 gallon breeder, two 20 gallon long
tanks. All Aqueon tanks. 40 for the display, first 20 for sump and second 20
for refugium. All tied together. I built my own stand for the display tank
and made sure it was as level and planner and straight as it could be.
Here is a picture.
<Very nice indeed>
It is made with a 2x6 frame and cross supports. 3/4" furniture grade plywood
on top with the skirt around the top to hide the tank plastic rim.
The issue I am writing about is this: when I placed my tank on the stand I
noticed there are gaps around the rim where it sits on the stand. One back
corner also has a gap. The gaps I see are here and there. They measure
around 1/64 to 1/32". The one back corner measures close to 1/16". I'm
trying to figure out what I need to do to correct this.
Using a square as a flat edge most gaps don't appear to bad. Checked the
tank the same way and it appears straight. Have assume its all in the top of
the stand. I wanted to know what you would suggest be the best fix.
<I would do nothing... I see you mention foam below>
I was thinking polystyrene foam from Lowes or home depot, rubber mat, 2
part epoxy like you see on bar tops with coins and bottle caps sealed under
the epoxy. What would be the easiest permeant fix and where can I get it?
<Likely there is nothing to be concerned re here. If you don't mind the
looks, the bit of foam all around the frame, stand contact area>
Thanks for your time and response.
Shawn from NEPA
<Bob Fenner from N. Kingston, R.I.>
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Re: Aquarium stand and tank
6/7/13
Thanks for your fast reply. So nothing to worry about. Even the one back
corner is ok not supported due to the 1/16"
gap under it that extends 3-4" away from that corner in each direction? I
<As prev. stated, highly likely not... this difference will settle...>
was actually looking into cork board sheet as of this afternoon. No fear
of tank cracking?
<Only a small bit... on par w/ tripping over ones laces; much less than the
certainty of damage from a car accident. Bob Fenner> |
Stand support for 125gallon glass aquarium with dual
corner overflows 4/19/11
Hi I am writing to request guidance for a DIY stand for a
125gallon All Glass Aquarium with dual corner overflows. I
researched WetWebMedia for some time and could not find anything
to help with my situation. I obtained a half completed aquarium
stand on Craigslist.
<? What happened to the other half? Had to ask>
The stand has 2X4s on end surrounding the perimeter of the tank
to hide the trim. The aquarium will not sit on these boards but
just on the inside of them. The bottom of the stand has the same
2x4 arrangement surrounding the outside edge of the stand. The
inside of the perimeter has 1X6 boards attached to the top and
bottom 2x4s vertically so the bottom frame of the glass aquarium
will rest on these 1X6 boards.
<... I don't like this>
There are two 1X6s adjoined together at right angles in each
corner as well as one at the back and front center of the stand.
I did not think this would be strong enough so I added 2X6 boards
by screws to these 1x6 boards and added a top cross piece to
strengthen the stand for the aquarium to rest on.
<Better>
I was also going to add a 3/4" piece of plywood on top of
the stand along with a piece of Styrofoam as recommended by
others.
<Good>
My concern is that the bulkheads will be in the way of the
attached 2x6s in the back corners and would have to cut out some
of the top of the 2x6 to have access to the bulkheads later on. I
wasn't able to provide pictures at the moment but will if
needed for further clarification.
<Please do... All that matters is "how much" of the
wood has to be cut (actually drilled as in circular) away to
accommodate the plumbing to/from the through puts>
Will this cause enough issues to weaken the stand enough?
<Can't tell, or better, render an/my opinion w/o more
detail as to the size, placement of the cut-away material>
What can I do to strengthen it more while still having access to
the bulkheads for future use?
<Perhaps some bracketing... maybe giving up on the returns in
the overflows, running these up over the back of the tank,
outside>
If needed, I can take it all apart and do it completely different
if needed. Thanks so much for the information and advice.
Steve
<Do send along a good drawing and/or image please. Bob
Fenner>
Re Stand support for 125gallon glass aquarium with
dual corner overflows 4/20/11
Hi Bob
<Stephen>
Thanks for getting back to me as fast as you did.
<Welcome>
Here are several photos of the stand including some drawings of
the bulkhead in relation to the stand supports.
<I only see the one .pdf file/drawing, sans indication/s of
where the through puts/cut outs might be. Please re-send the
drawing showing them>
I attempted to get the bulkhead drawings as close to scale as
possible to illustrate how much of the vertical 2x6 stand
supports would need to be trimmed.
<These need to be greatly bolstered... at least doubled in all
corners... and all fastened with screws, not nails... and these
covered to prevent rusting>
The inner circle of the bulkheads are actually the outside
perimeter of the bulkheads that extends through the stand.
<Maybe. Just to introduce the idea here, I would add many more
two-by uprights to support the edges of the tank, particularly if
you're going to go ahead and cut around the two back
corners>
The outer circle of the bulkhead is the nut size for the
bulkheads.
<Am very familiar... you may want to consider
annealing/solventing or screwing something of smaller diameter
(other than the nuts)... to reduce the cut-away areas>
The bulkhead drawing only shows the left back side as the right
side is the mirror image of that and would require the same
amount of 2x6 to be trimmed.
<Please re-send this>
The drawing with the top view shows the center supports as I plan
to place them.
<I'd add several more two by uprights along the support
edge, maybe a couple more laterals (front to back) to more fully
support the ply and Styro top>
The photos did not have the 2x6 supports attached to the 1x6
boards including the center support as I am trimming the boards
to the exact size and have not fitted them in with the stand
yet.
<Understood>
Would I need extra room under the aquarium to work on the
bulkheads for future maintenance or is just drilling enough for
the bulkheads to clear the boards?
<The latter. I would have good help... careful measurement...
with "dropping down" the pre-plumbed fittings here...
onto and into the cut-outs of the stand>
I hope this helps and please let me know any suggestions
including the possibility of starting over using possible 4x4s
and 2x4s.
<I would have made the four corners of 4 bys, but securing two
2 bys (every foot or so) with screws will do here>
Thanks so much for you assistance
Steve
<Happy to assist you, BobF>
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Re Stand support for 125gallon glass aquarium with
dual corner overflows 4/21/11 Stephen, in
finding/reviewing your "cut out" drawing (showing where
you intend to make room for the bulkheads, nuts), I do think
you'll be okay if you add the "many" suggested
upright supports (about half the inside edge) and other laterals
across from front to back. BobF
Re: Stand support for 125gallon glass aquarium with
dual corner overflows 4/21/11
Hi Bob
<Stephen>
Thanks for getting back to me again.
<Welcome... as you see, I did find your other drawing...
beneath the first one! When I went to post today>
I was planning on using the aquarium as a South American
freshwater cichlid tank for now with the possibility of saltwater
in the future and wanted to use a wet dry filter for the
freshwater system if it works better than a canister filter/ hang
on the back filter combo. Are wet dry filters more efficient with
less maintenance required than using both canister filters and
hang on the back filters?
<More than good canister filters, like Eheims, less than
hang-ons by and large>
For now I have an Eheim 2080 canister filter and was going to
work it into the overflow by plumbing the canister filter inlet
hose through the drain bulkhead.
<Mmm, I'd just use the stock over the top intake and
return>
Would it work to have the canister filter's intake worked up
inside the overflow through the drain line and rigged into a
Durso standpipe with the canister's strainer at the beginning
of the inlet of the Durso standpipe?
The inlet would be taking water from inside the overflow area.
The return line and spray bar would return back to the aquarium
and plumbed through the return bulkhead or I might just return it
over the back of the aquarium.
<Too likely to have air intake issues...>
I also I wanted the option of putting in a wet dry or sump later
if it works better for a freshwater system versus the canister
filter.
<Just run this independent of the canister>
That brings me to the fish tank stand.
Should I add several more 2x6 uprights for reinforcement mostly
in the back of the tank stand so I can have more room in the
front for access to the canister filter and with installing a
large wet dry system in the future with out having to take the
tank of the stand and putting the wet dry in through the top?
<Yes... all the same "height" of course>
I thought of another possibility after looking at several DIY
aquarium stands on the internet. Would it work better to install
a top and bottom frame of 2x4s running horizontally along the
perimeter of the stand so that the bottom of the tank's frame
and edges are in full contact with the 2x4s underneath?
<Would be better, yes>
The 2x4 frame would also have several 2x4 cross pieces screwed in
for added support. I would still place a 3/4" piece of
plywood and Styrofoam on top of the 2x4 frame with the aquarium
sitting on top of all that. I could also add several 2x6s
vertically and directly underneath the 2x4 frame in the corners
as well as a few in the back and front center parts of the
stand.
The bottom of the stand would have the same 2x4 frame assembly
screwed into the bottom of the 2x6s. I would then wrap the sides
and back with 1/2" plywood and have trim and 2 doors for the
front.
<Ok>
Let me know what you suggest about these options.
<Worth doing, though just adding the uprights... would also
do>
Thanks again!
Steve
<Welcome. BobF>
Re: Stand support for 125gallon glass aquarium with dual
corner overflows 4/21/11
I have a few more questions before heading off and completing the
tank stand as you recommended. Is it possible to use the Eheim in
the normal set up as over the back of the tank but with the
intake being placed in the overflow area or outside it? I want to
reduce the stagnant dead spots in the overflow as much as
possible.
<I really wouldn't be concerned re, and I would not place
the intake here>
I would assume that you would recommend the wet dry filtration
over canisters like the Eheim for biological/mechanical
filtration. Sorry if I am asking the same question again but do
wet dry filters offer more biological/mechanical filtration
capacity and can handle larger fish loads than large canisters
like Eheims?
<Yes, they do... and/but w/ concurrent higher driven
nitrification... i.e., more nitrate production>
What brand of wet dry systems would you recommend for longevity
& efficiency? I have looked at the Proline Aqueon brands as
well as the Eshopps and am not certain which is best or other
brands as well.
Thanks Bob and have a great day!!
<Mmm, I like "custom jobs"... like Marc
Levenson's... for certain features.
But our take on these units can be accessed here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_3/cav3i6/trickle_filters.htm
and the linked files below. Bob Fenner
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question about aquarium stand supports for a 135 gal
glass tank 3/23/11
Hi
<Hello there>
Thank you for offering such an awesome site for questions!
<Why "we're here">
I recently purchased a used 135 gal glass aquarium that I plan to
set up as a salt water tank. I already have a 65 gal and wanted
something bigger...
go figure they are addictive!
<Ah yes>
Anyway, I am trying to keep my cost down so I am building my own
stand, I looked up some stand diagrams for the basics but I
wanted to make sure the stand I am building will hold the
considerable weight of the tank and water etc.
<Good>
as you can see I am not finished yet. I had to take out the
middle leg in the back because it will be in the way of the
plumbing that comes out of the middle bottom of the tank. I have
used 2x4 framing for the top frame, I have cross supports like
the one on the bottom pic at each end and then two more about 18
inches from the ends, again I had one in the middle but had to
remove it for plumbing. I know I need to distribute the weight in
the middle of the tank with another support beam, do I need to
put 2 more on either side of the middle or is it ok to just place
one to the left or right of where the plumbing will come
through?
<Mmm... I would do the putting two more on either side of the
middle back AND add four more supports (2 by 4) one at each
corner... Ideally, these should fit "outside" screwed
against the existing 2 by 4s, and go up underneath the outer lip
of the stand top. Is this clear? I would NOT use the stand as it
is... I would do as I state at this point (otherwise would have
used 4 by 4s at the corners). Further, I would cross brace the
ends with 2 by 4s spanning diagonally the corners on either
side>
I am also concerned with the way I have attached the legs.. they
are screwed in with wood screws 3 at the side an done down from
the top of the support beam.
<To try to be clear, you need the stand to be strongly braced
"in three dimensions"... should it take a jolt, as in
an earthquake or someone running into it in any direction>
I am also trying to figure out how I am going to reinforce the
legs, in the plan I used it has a frame at the bottom to support
the legs but that does not seem sufficient to me?
<Me neither... Again, the diagonal... screwed in place, you
can counter sink the screws, fill in the heads before sealing
all>
I still have to replace the middle leg I removed, I was thinking
of using a sheet plywood paneling for the back from under the
frame to the floor?
<Mmm, why? For strength? I would not do this... you'll
want some air
circulation, indirect light and a way to get plumbing,
electrical... about there>
I looked at my other tank stand and this is how it is done, it
actually has no legs only plywood paneling. how do I brace the
existing legs....
<With the added 2 by 4s at the corners I think you will be
okay here>
I have the wood that I got for the bottom frame but I don't
like the idea of it only being around the bottom portion of the
legs..
seems like it should be braced more in the middle of the legs
from one to the other. If I do this is just a simple cross
support beam between legs sufficient?
<Likely so>
I was also thinking of just paneling the sides like the back
section.. only it would be from leg to leg, would this be good
enough instead of the cross support beam?
<Could work as well...>
I will eventually panel the front of the stand and see if I can
make doors for it.. (see how I do with this part first).
I want to add a sheet of plywood for the floor, do the legs need
to be on top of the plywood to distribute the weight across our
wood flooring (there is concrete under the wood flooring) ?
<I would NOT place a pc. of ply here... too likely to get wet
and rot... of no practical use... However, I would make sure the
area of the 2 by 4 legs touching the floor are well-coated/sealed
for the same reason. Just make sure first that where this stand
and tank are to go is level and planar (by putting the stand on
it, measuring with a long carpenter's level in all two
dimensions on top)>
I am short on cash so I am trying to create this stand as cost
effectively as possible but without compromising the integrity of
the stand. Thanks for any suggestions you may have.
Lisa
<Do please write back if any of this is not clear and
complete. Bob Fenner>
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Re: question about aquarium stand supports for a 135
gal glass tank 3/24/11
Bob,
<Lisa>
Ok, let me clarify what I think I understand you to mean :) I think
you are saying to support each leg with another matching 2x4.
<Matching, almost... a bit shorter (like 3.5")...
underneath the long front (and back) lateral, perpendicular to the
existing ones in the corners... screwed to them>
Then for the ends you say to cross brace them, or did I understand
you to say it was ok to simply panel the sides without the cross
brace..
<You could do either... IF the paneling DO use MANY small nails
or good sized (3") wood screws every six inches or so>
and if I need to cross brace it would it look like an X from corner
to corner, or did you mean to cross brace from one end to the other
end?
<One half of the "X" will do>
or did you mean to
put a brace diagonally from the top frame to the leg at each
corner?
<This latter would also do>
Thanks again, I really appreciate the help
Lisa
<I wish we were neighbours. I'd come on over and help
directly. BobF> |
stand design -- 3/14/10
Salutations!
<Salud!>
I was wondering if you would have a look at a stand design I have
come up with and answer a few questions/concerns I have
please.
<Sure>
The stand will be used for a 65gal upgrade from my 55gal, and
will house the 55gal as a refugium underneath. I plan all joints
and laminations to be PL Premium joined with screws as fasteners.
The only place lumber will be used on it's flat is the base,
to disperse load. My design is to allow for total access from the
front. (see attached - my scanner produces gifs... hope you will
forgive me.)
<Certainly. Your drawings are clear enough>
My goal is to attach a sump design I found on
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2008-01/newbie/index.php once I
re-seal my 55gal. My primary concern is deflection of the front
2x4's. Will the laminated 2x4's, having full bearing on
the uprights, be enough to provide support over the span as
indicated?
<Mmm>
Also, will the uprights be enough to carry the compressive
load?
<If they all compress... about the same, should be fine,
but...>
Finally, I value any input/ideas towards my overflow use idea
that you may offer.
Again I thank you for you assistance, and appreciate the
dedication you have to the hobby.
Richard J.C.
<I would add a central vertical (in the front)... that you can
secure with carriage bolts, nuts... or wood screws (brass or
stainless)... so it can be removed if/when you want/need to move
the lower tank/sump. IF the upper
tank were acrylic (not glass) this "extra" support
would not be as necessary, but I would not generally suggest more
than a 24" span w/o such support... definitely not 36"
plus as in here. Cheers, Bob Fenner>
|
|
Re: stand design, caffeine 3/14/10
Thank you, Bob, for the fast reply. One other (new) thought
regarding unobstructed access. If sections of angle-iron, 1/4in
thick with 2in flanges, were placed to span the length both front
and back - would that suffice to carry the load?
<Would be better... but...>
or is the centre brace still required?
<IMO, yes... in particular in areas where the ground
moves>
By the way, I learned a valuable lesson regarding my design
send.... coffee first - then send.
<Heeeee!>
My weight estimate was off for the main tank - estimate at 700 to
800 lb for a 65gal, not 1200 to 1400 lbs. I included the weight
of the refugium. Sorry about that. (sipping coffee - rereading -
now send).
Richard J.C.
<1, 3, 7 tri-methylxanthine... the world's most widely
abused psycho-active drug... and my fave xanthophyll. Thank you
for sharing. BobF>
|
Large Acrylic Aquarium Stand Question
3/2/2010
Hello All,
<Hi Lisa.>
Unfortunately, I am located in Okinawa, Japan (a small island off
of the main island of Japan)
<Very nice Island, spend many months there when I was in the
USAF>
so finding marine grade materials or teak is rare, expensive, or
hard to find since there is a large language barrier.
<Ok>
This being said, is there anything that is acceptable to use at a
standard hardware store?
<Certainly.>
I can get walnut, birch, plywood, etc, but am not sure if this is
good enough.
<Plywood would actually be best, as it is less likely to warp
that a solid piece of wood.>
It's a very thick, sturdy stand to hold 150 gallons in an
acrylic tank so I don't want to skimp on what I should use. I
have included a picture of what I have built so far with my
husband being the sander man.
<The stand looks very sturdy. Get a nice piece of plywood and
stain it, and you should be fine.>
<MikeV>
|
Very nice! |
DIY aquarium stand 10/31/08 Quick question, I
recently built my own aquarium stand to normal measurements and
allowing a 1/2 in space around for wiggle room. But here is the
problem. When you lean on the front of the stand it leans a little
forward, also I built it taller than the standard size ( I went with 40
inches). Now should I put a 50 lb bag of sand in the inside of the
stand to counter the lean or will it correct its self when the tank is
filled also the stand is on carpet not by choice but because it is in
an apartment <By leaning forward, I assume you mean it is not
sitting flat/flush on the floor? If so either the stand or the floor is
indeed not planar. You will need to shim this out just like a leveling
issue, ideally with a continuous piece of wood on the bottom of the
stand, or between the stand and the floor. See:
http://wetwebmedia.com/aqstdleveling.htm If it is wobbly just because
it is sitting on the carpet, fill the tank partially and then check for
wobble/level and proceed from there. Scott V.>
DIY stand 9/9/08 I am planning on
constructing a DIY stand. Will be made completely of wood, most likely
2x8's and 2x4's (placed on end vs. flat)-with glue/screws.
Would be for a 280 gallon glass only tank. Stand dimensions likely
72"Lx30"Wx42"H. I have a few questions regarding. Is
there any advantage/disadvantage to attaching a plywood base to the
bottom of the stand frame? I've seen many tank stands without a
base, just 2x4's as the base. What would be your recommendation?
What thickness of plywood? I'm planning on a base for the top of
the stand, though being that it's a glass tank, it may not be
needed. However, this is a large DIY glass only tank-all panels resting
on bottom plate (tank). Given this information, would you recommend a
plywood/foam base for the top of the stand? <I would always use a
base on a stand just because it is more visually appealing. It is not
necessary though. Also I would use 1/2 plywood for strength. There are
many helpful websites on this topic and you can look at many different
aquarium stands online. Good luck with your project,
IanB><<... what about a referral here? RMF>> Thank
you!
Stand and Floor Reinforcements for a
125g Tank -- 05/21/08 I looked through your archives and
found one similar and yet fundamentally different question.
<<Okay>> Here I include the page link:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/diystands.htm. Use a find and look for
poles in reference. <<?>> On to my question. I have
been advised and wish to call upon any experience over at
WetWebMedia on this subject as a second opinion. <<I'll
be happy to proffer mine>> Sorry about Length. <<No
worries>> I live in a home built for the Dept of Ag in 1928.
This structure has no discernible level issues at the floor level.
I have used my 2 foot level all over the area that will house my
new 125 gal reef. <<Mmm'¦a longer level (or
attachment of your level to a longer and straight 2x4) would likely
reveal 'some' deflection'¦but it sounds like this
is not a great concern here>> Currently a 75 gallon inhabits
this area, and what a day it will be switching over. I am unable to
find deflection in the floor. In fact I thought I saw deflection
but... it's splitting hairs to some degree as we are talking
about a bubble that appears centered. <<Some deflection is to
be expected'¦even in 'new'
construction'¦but as long as it is not to the extreme, it
can be dealt with>> Am I worrying too much at this level?
<<Does sound as if so'¦based on what you have found
thus far>> Being 80 years old and no measurable deflection in
the floor, I am hoping this is good. <<Yes'¦a bigger
concern may be whether the original builder used a large enough
floor joist, as I suspect what you have would not be suitable/would
be too small by 'today's' building codes.
But'¦this too can be dealt with if it is the case. At any
rate, whether up to code or not, I would plan to add some
additional support to the floor from under the house just for the
peace of mind>> I am on an exterior wall. Outside this wall
behind the tank is a small sunroom. It has no basement section
below it and no second floor unlike the rest of the house. It is
only 2/3 the length of that exterior wall. This still counts as
load bearing, does it not? <<I would expect the wall to be a
load-bearing wall, yes'¦but, that does not mean the floor
adjacent to it can bear a larger load without additional support. A
load-bearing wall is designed to take the load 'on top of'
the wall'¦the 'support' for this wall does not
extend to the flooring adjacent which relies on the size and
spacing of the floor joists (along with their method of attachment)
to determine its load-bearing capacity>> The unfortunate part
is that I simply cannot place it perpendicular to the joists, which
happen every 18 inches. I can bring it 18 from that exterior wall
to insure it is over a joist. I was advised that it probably was
not a huge deal, but that for comfort I could go into the basement
and add a sheet of OSB right under the tank, against the ceiling
and use 4 adjustable steel joists rated at 19000 @ at each corner
of the OSB to reinforce the floor. <<Okay, let me see if I
can get this straight'¦ By 'steel joists' I think
you mean adjustable steel post-jacks rated at 19,000lbs each. These
jacks/posts would work very well, but I WOULD NOT use/trust the OSB
to support these/the floor. What 'I' recommend is
this'¦ Since the tank will be positioned parallel to the
floor joists'¦place the tank as centered as possible over
two joists (running parallel). Note these joists and get two wooden
4x4 posts that are long enough to span these two joists AND reach
one joist to EACH side (i.e. -- span four joists with each 4x4).
Position the 4x4 timbers under joists (spanning the four joists as
described) and about a foot in from where each end of the tank will
be and position and support each 4x4 in the middle with a post-jack
(one jack per 4x4 will suffice)>> I was told that this was
completely overkill but effective. Can anyone concur? <<To
reiterate, the OSB will not suffice'¦what 'I describe
is not overkill'¦but is effective>> This basement is
concrete but finished, the ceiling is finished with plaster and
slats. <<Mmm'¦you may want to use a sheet of plywood
between the 4x4 timbers and the ceiling then to spread the load
more evenly'¦but even then, you will still likely have
compression marks in the ceiling>> The 75 is here with 20g
sump currently. Pictures are avail if needed. I have built my stand
using this plan:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1169964&perpage=25&pagenumber=1.
It is a lot to ask, but I would appreciate if you just look at the
picture and first post. If not though, I do understand. <<Had
a look'¦this appears to be a good and sturdy
design>> I added two 2x4 vertical legs in the front and back.
They occur at about 24 inches from either side and this tank is
72", but the stand to be 73". It's probably overkill
given physics and the 2x6's but why skimp at this juncture only
to experience tragedy. <<Indeed'¦a bit of
over-engineering can be very comforting>> On the other hand
perhaps I am missing something, how do you view this plan?
<<I don't think you have missed anything re the
stand'¦this design should serve quite well>> I will
keep the sump on a whole other floor from this so no worries there.
I appreciate your time and help. <<A pleasure to
share>> If ever I can help please let me know I will gladly
return what I am able to. Ian <<Ian'¦do get back to
me if any of my explanation re the joists support is not
clear/needs further explanation. Good luck with your project.
EricR>> |
|
Re: Stand and Floor Reinforcements for
a 125g Tank -- 05/22/08 Eric, Thank you for your quick and
informative reply! <<Quite welcome, Ian>> I have
included our previous correspondence below. <<Thank you for
this>> To acknowledge your questions. I just wanted to link
to the mentioned archives in case you needed reference. <<Ah
yes>> **By 'steel joists' I think you mean adjustable
steel post-jacks rated at 19,000lbs each.** Indeed those adjustable
joists are the ones in question. <<To be clear
here'¦ 'Joists' are the 2x material spanning from
wall to wall and supporting the floor above and (in this case) to
which your lath and plaster basement ceiling is attached. The
post-jacks are 'not' joists, but will be used to support
the joists from below>> **Mmm'¦you may want to use a
sheet of plywood between the 4x4 timbers and the ceiling then to
spread the load more evenly'¦but even then, you will still
likely have compression marks in the ceiling** I do not mind the
compression marks and I checked with the home office and they'd
rather the floor is supported. <<Very good>> The
plaster is old hat and can easily be replaced by sheet rock.
<<Unless you are a purist, yes'¦though if you've
never done it before, you're definition of 'easily'
might change [grin] >> So, I do not believe I can go out
enough, given the rooms setup, to be situated so that I could span
a joist on each side of the tank from underneath. At least not
without problems with the rest of the rooms objects and
inhabitants. Well, being finished it is hard to see what is where.
Is it uniform to have a stud just after the load bearing wall? Say
within a couple of inches? If so I could just barely do it, but if
not... <<You stated in your earlier query that you could not
place the tank perpendicular to the floor joists'¦this
would mean you will be placing the tank 'parallel' to the
joists, yes? So'¦what I am trying to convey is that you
should position the 4x4 support timbers to span at least one joist
to either side of the tank>> The one part I was unsure of
from your description is that your suggesting the 4x4's should
be placed from underneath approximately 1 foot in from each end of
the tank right? <<Below the floor joists and against the
basement ceiling, yes (supported by the jack posts)>> And
that the joist should be directly under the tank, which should be
in the center of the 4x4? <<I think you are confusing
terminology here (refer to my earlier statement re joists and
jack-posts). If you can run the tank centered over a parallel joist
that would be good, but at the least, span and support a joist to
either side of the tank from below with the 4x4. And'¦what
should be centered on the 4x4 timber is the
'jack-post''¦ Are we clear here?>> What if I
cannot as described above, achieve a definite center due to my
inability to get the tank out that far from the wall? <<If
the tank is not going to be placed perpendicular to the floor
joists as you stated, I don't understand what this has to do
with its distance from the wall? Tell me'¦how is this tank
going to be placed in reference to the outside wall we discussed
earlier'¦and'¦in which direction do the floor
joists run in relation to this outside wall?>> I looked
downstairs and the plaster is actually on a metal screen like
material, which would have to be against the joists. I asked the
maintenance guy about what size joists are in these homes. I would
assume with the floor being so thick, around a foot, the plaster,
and the original use of cast iron radiators that they must be at
least 2x6's but my answer should be in soon. <<Current
code probably requires a 2x10 joist these days (can vary by
region/state/county)'¦but not to worry'¦if
installed properly, the post-jacks and 4x4 timbers will supply
plenty of support>> Ian <<As before, get back to me if
any of this is not clear or we have any misunderstandings. I would
also very much suggest you invest a couple hundred bucks to have a
structural engineer take a look at what you want to do and to
advise on the support system re. The peace of mind alone is well
worth the investment'¦but having someone there to put
their eyes on your project and to explain 'first-hand' what
needs to be done can make all the difference. Cheers, Eric
Russell>> |
Tank set up, stand construction
05/19/08 Good Evening, whomever answers this query! <Hello
to you Fish Nut... BobF out in the land of the Pharoahs currently> I
have recently purchased a used 75 gallon (standard size) tank ($60,
couldn't pass it up...) to upgrade my existing 55 gallon that
currently holds 5 Discus, all about 2.5- 3.5 inches in length, and a
few Hatchet fish. I will be purchasing more fish, however I'm still
researching/deciding as to what I'm looking for exactly. <Mmm,
I'd leave most all the room here for your growing Discus>
Anyhoo, I took the tank home, and did some measurements on my existing
stand, and it appears the width (well.. from front to back) of the tank
is too wide. I'm short by about 1/2 inch or so, probably a bit
less. If I were too purchase a thick sheet of wood that will
'extend' the top of the surface of my stand, do you think this
will work out/be safe? <Yes... Plywood (marine grade is best) of one
inch or 2.5 cm. thereabouts is about right. I'd seal it with
urethane, polyurethane...> I'm leaning toward 'yes' but
with about 750+ pounds of water, rocks, etc weight resting on it, I
want to be completely sure. Also, is it worth the effort and risk to
upgrade? To me, It's not worth spending another $200 or so for a
quality stand that is made for a 75 gallon tank, but it's worth a
few dollars the wood will cost. Thanks for the help! Eric <Do you
have concerns that the current stand will not support the additional
weight of the new tank et al. gear to be used? I might well test this
out in the street or garage with an overage of weight first. Bob
Fenner>
Re: Stand size diff., weight
05/20/08 Bob, <Eric> Thanks for the quick answers. I
appreciate the help. I'm confident the current stand will support
the weight of the tank, it's just a matter of the width being too
'wide' is all. I'll have to look into the marine grade
plywood that I can coat with polyurethane. Do you think the 75 gallon
will allow adding additional fish? <Compared with the 55? Oh yes...
wouldn't we all like 55-75/55 difference in our pay? Time on the
planet?> I recently read (well; re-read) the article on Discus in
WWM. Very helpful. Thanks again. Eric <Welcome/Welkomen BobF, in
Deutschlund>
Questions About DIY Tank Stand -- 11/30/07
Dear WWM Crew, <<Hello Brian>> Please allow me to start off
by thanking you for saving me much grief in my saltwater endeavors. I
find this hobby to be at once delightfully confounding, and sublimely
rewarding, and having a resource such as WWM as close as my fingertips
helps immeasurably. <<We are all pleased to be of service>>
Now, on to my query. I have recently decided to build what, in my
opinion, could be considered a furniture quality aquarium stand for my
37 gallon acrylic flat-back hexagon reef tank. <<Neat! Am a bit
of a woodworker myself>> I have tried to err on the side of
caution, and build with the idea that this will be a functional piece
of furniture, as well as a safe, level, and planar stand for my reef
and its inhabitants. <<As it should be>> As stated earlier,
I currently have a 37 gallon acrylic which is 13 inches wide, 36 inches
long, and 18 inches deep. I have designed this stand with the intention
of being able to upgrade to either a 55 gallon glass tank, or a custom
made acrylic tank in the future. <<Ah, an eye for the
future'¦smart move>> My current design is for a stand 6
feet in length, 18 and one half inches wide and 30 inches tall. I have
built the frame out of standard 2x4 lumber from the local Lowes. For
the top and bottom frames, I constructed 2x4 rectangles of the desired
dimensions, the 2x4s placed "on edge", rather than flat, with
the ends butt jointed. <<Mmm'¦do use a good waterproof
glue at the joints along with your mechanical fasteners (a
'Polyurethane' would be best), and maybe consider adding some
galvanized 'hurricane' braces at the inside corners like those
used for deck/house construction, if possible. You may fine you will
need to 'inlay' the braces to allow for smooth fitting of the
external skin panels'¦depending on the type used and your
design. Also'¦I would 'double-up' the 2x4s on the long
dimensions, especially in anticipation of a larger tank. Simply
'sister' a second 2x4 to the first with glue and
screws'¦will actually be stronger/deflect less than if you had
used 4-by lumber>> A horizontal cross member, at 15 and one half
inch length of 2x4, has been placed every one foot, along the entire
length of the frames. <<Excellent'¦this acrylic tank
will need 'full' support over the entire bottom of the
tank>> For the vertical supports at each corner, I used 30 inch
lengths of 4x4 lumber, notching out the very top of each vertical post,
to accept the top and bottom frames flush at each corner. <<Very
good>> I also placed a vertical support centered at 36 inches
horizontally in both the front and back of the stand.
<<Ah'¦okay, good>> As an added layer of security,
I have diagonally braced each of the corner posts, using a piece of 2x4
cut on a 45 degree angle attached to both the post and the top and
bottom frames. <<I see'¦ Can't hurt, though
attachment to both the top and bottom frames would likely have been
sufficient. I have built a few tank stands myself, including the one my
current 375g reef sits upon'¦a bit of over-engineering is not
a bad thing>> The surface for tank stand is a 1 inch thick piece
of oak plywood 72 and one half inches long, by 18 and one half inches
wide, secured to the rest of the frame using a combination of wood
screws, and glue. <<Holy-cow, mate'¦you're gonna
need a few friends to move this tank stand>> I plan on placing
the finished cabinet on a 3/4 inch piece of solid oak plywood which
will be one half inch larger than the base of the cabinet, for even
distribution of weight. All joints and surfaces were made square and
planar using a handheld power planer. (A must have for even an amateur
woodworker!) <<Hee-hee! I don't know about 'a
must''¦but definitely a neat/handy gadget!>> I am
quite certain that this stand is engineered well enough to support the
weight of the 37 gallon for many, many years to come.
<<Okay>> My concern is for future upgrade possibilities. Do
you feel that this stand, as described, will be able to support the
possible weight of say, a 55 gallon, with a very liberal weight
estimate of 700 pounds, or even a 75 gallon? <<Double-up the
frame members on the long dimensions as earlier suggested and I think
you'll be fine/have better piece of mind>> I apologize for
the length of my query. <<No worries>> I have tried, to the
best of my abilities to be as clear and concise and possible.
<<This is greatly appreciated>> I eagerly await your
response/feedback. <<On its way'¦>> With best
wishes for a safe and happy holiday season, Brian <<And to you in
kind. Eric Russell>>
Question Concerning DIY Tank Stand 11/29/07
Dear WWM Crew, <Hello, Scott V. with you.> Please allow me to
start off by thanking you for saving me much grief in my saltwater
endeavors. I find this hobby to be at once delightfully confounding,
and sublimely rewarding, and having a resource such as WWM as close as
my fingertips helps immeasurably. <Much appreciated Brian, this is
one uniquely amazing hobby.> Now, on to my query. I have recently
decided to build what, in my opinion, could be considered a furniture
quality aquarium stand for my 37 gallon acrylic flat-back hexagon reef
tank. I have tried to err on the side of caution, and build with the
idea that this will be a functional piece of furniture, as well as a
safe, level, and planar stand for my reef and it's inhabitants.
<Sounds nice.> As stated earlier, I currently have a 37 gallon
acrylic which is 13 inches wide, 36 inches long, and 18 inches deep. I
have designed this stand with the intention of being able to upgrade to
either a 55 gallon glass tank, or a custom made acrylic tank in the
future. My current design is for a stand 6 feet in length, 18 and one
half inches wide, and 30 inches tall. I have built the frame out of
standard 2x4 lumber from the local Lowes. For the top and bottom
frames, I constructed 2x4 rectangles of the desired dimensions, the
2x4s placed "on edge", rather than flat, with the ends butt
jointed. A horizontal cross member, a 15 and one half inch length of
2x4, has been placed every one foot, along the entire length of the
frames. For the vertical supports at each corner, I used 30 inch
lengths of 4x4 lumber, notching out the very top of each vertical post,
to accept the top and bottom frames flush at each corner. I also place
a vertical support centered at 36 inches horizontally in both the front
and back of the stand. As an added layer of security, I have diagonally
braced each of the corner posts, using a piece of 2x4 cut on a 45
degree angle attached to both the post and the top and bottom frames. I
plan on placing the finished cabinet on a 3/4 inch piece of solid oak
plywood which will be one half inch larger than the base of the
cabinet, for even distribution of weight. All joints and surfaces were
made square and planar using a handheld power planer. (A must have for
even an amateur woodworker!) <Must admit I have yet to get one!>
I am quite certain that this stand is engineered well enough to support
the weight of the 37 gallon for many, many years to come. My concern is
for future upgrade possibilities. Do you feel that this stand, as
described, will be able to support the possible weight of say, a 55
gallon, with a very liberal weight estimate of 700 pounds, or even a 75
gallon? <No doubt it could hold an even larger tank. It sounds like
you have a very sound design. Most commercially available stands are
under built compared to your design. Just be sure that you also have
plywood on the top of the stand. An acrylic aquarium must be supported
over the entire bottom, not just the perimeter as with glass tanks.>
I apologize for the length of my query. I have tried, to the best of my
abilities to be as clear and concise and possible. I eagerly await your
response/feedback. With best wishes for a safe and happy holiday
season, Brian <Thank you, again much appreciated. You have a solid
design that will likely outlast the tank itself. Have fun building, and
watch those fingers (I should have bought that planer). Scott
V.>
75 gal. fish tank... Stand, canopy const. Qs
I am in the process of starting up a 75 gal tank. and am going to build
the stand and canopy myself. <A good project> I found a site
where a guy built his and gave the step by step, but am wondering if
four 4x4's for the legs will strong enough to support it. <Oh
yes... most commercial stands for this sized system are of 2 bys...>
also if i should only use one 2x4 on each side of the front and back of
stand for middle support. <Can be done> also I need to find a
good lighting fixture for the canopy. a website i was going to purchase
one from said to make sure there is enough air flow for the light so it
does not overheat but how do i know if there is enough air flow for the
light, or do i install it and wait for it to explode if it does get to
hot. and i also need to know what type to buy as well because i want to
do a reef tank, so if you could give me some recommendations i would
appreciate it thank you. <Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/index.htm The second tray down...
Bob Fenner>
Stand, design, const. 6/5/07 Dear WWM Crew <Joey>
Hello again guys and gals love the site and find myself spending more
and more time on it everyday keep up the excellent work. Quick update I
wrote you once earlier with an Oscar problem my dear buddy Lorikai had
a chunk missing from his mouth and has been healing quite nicely
without much intervention other than weekly partial water changes as
you suggested you guys rock. I did however notice what possibly caused
the injury is that sometimes when feeding the Oscar feels the need to
violently gulp his food and I think the water level was to high and a
piece of food could of been up against the plastic edge and caused his
laceration. problem solved I now keep the water level a good half inch
below this edge now. <Good move> The reason I am writing today is
I am moving forward with my aquarium and would like some advice. I have
recently acquired a 90 gallon for my Oscar and Pacu. Which in the
future I plan to turn into a SW tank once I have acquired and even
larger tank for my boys. That being said now I need a place to put the
bloody thing. I have scoured some LFS and online stores to find nothing
really to my liking in a stand. They all seem to be either overpriced,
poor quality, or just plain ugly and sometimes all of the above. So I
am now going down the DIY path because I know I can make something way
better. I have found this site just recently and thought it was pretty
amazing http://www.fishandtips.com/index.php and here is also a link to
the stand I am planning to build
http://www.fishandtips.com/step1/step1.php?Step1=&Step2=&Step3=&add1=&
;Key=&Length=48&Width=18&Height=25&StandHeight=30&add1=checked&
amp;Step1=checked&Step2=checked&Step3=checked <Very nice
plans> Sorry its such a long link. I was wondering what your
thoughts are on this build from what I can see it looks pretty solid
and have thought about putting 2 more 4"x4"x11" poles in
one on the top and one on the bottom although not sure if entirely
necessary or not. <I would add these... for greater stability,
strength against lateral movement> I am also glad I looked over some
info on your site because this site recommended pressure treated lumber
to avoid rotting and I knew pressure treated wood was poisonous but the
thought never crossed my mind about seeping into my system. <I would
coat this... Varathane, Urethane...> So I will be using an untreated
wood hopefully some nice kiln dried oak. I am thinking about using a
faux marble wallpaper <Oh!> I have found online and coating that
with a high gloss polyurethane. Is this feasible and if so do I need to
do anything else as far as water proofing the untreated wood or would
the polyurethane cover it I am unsure of this. Thanks in advance and
once again you guys rule. Yours Truly, > Joey <The biggest change
I would make to these plans would be to use countersinking and carriage
bolts, nuts and washers in the place of the specified wood screws. Bob
Fenner>
Using Treated Wood For Aquarium Structures - 02/04/07
Dearest Bob and Friends, <<Greetings>> Wishing good health
to all; I have been on a very strict diet for 3 weeks.. Argh!)
<<I hate diets...>> I have finished building a very strong
stand for a new 90-gal I will be setting up. <<Cool!>> I am
quite sure that I made a mistake in my wood selection.
<<Oh?>> I used 5x5 treated wood. Afterwards I found out
that treated wood has a poison biocide stain (green) on it.
<<Mmm, indeed...is why it is called "treated." The use
of arsenic (chromated copper arsenate) was banned for residential use
in 2004, the treated wood available to homeowners (hobbyists) today
contains either alkaline copper quat or copper azole. While much less
toxic to us than the arsenic based treatment, you'll notice the
common ingredient is copper...sometimes as high as 96%. Obviously you
don't want this leaching in to your tank>> This is a problem
right? <<It can be yes...and is why I chose to not use treated
lumber when building my in-wall reef display>> Can I simply
varnish over? <<I don't recommend this...it just won't
last in this environment, and the wood is still likely too
"wet" anyway. Your best option is to use a penetrating oil
stain to seal the wood that can easily be renewed as needed>>
Another problem is that the wood I used was not 100% dry when I got it.
<<Ah, yes...treated and kiln-dried wood is sometimes available,
but more often than not the wood at the home centers (Lowe's/HD) is
not "dried" and is only hours/days old after the treatment
process>> Now it seems to have finished drying since it was built
and now the areas where the tank sits on the stand is no longer planar.
<<Not unusual...treated wood is usually meant for
"rough" construction and is not the best
"cuts"...couple that with the extremely high moisture content
and bowing/twisting is inevitable. Another reason for using untreated
and kiln-dried wood>> Off by 1/8 inch at some places. I tried to
level off using a hand sander and files but I think I made it worse.
<<You're best option here is to start over with better wood I
think>> The wood has also cracked in some areas but I doubt that
is of any worry. <<Mmm, I don't agree...there will be an
awful lot of weight on this stand>> I honestly think my stand
could hold a train car. (5x5 wood, secured using 7 inch 3/8 wood
screws, and wood glue, structure is all boxed in) <<Ah...but is
all "moot" if it is not level and planar>> At this
point I'm thinking that I could simply place a 1/4 inch thick
rubber strip under the perimeter (this is a perimeter trim tank) of the
tank to compensate for my non-planar mess! <<Mmm, I don't
think this is a good solution here>> I think I remember reading
your advice against this but I think at this point I'm ready to
accept a non-ideal solution. <<Are you ready to accept having the
tank burst?>> I think the odds of me bringing this planar using
hand tools is slim. <<Likely, yes>> It is not as easy and
is actually quite easy to make worse. <<Indeed...and reason
enough to chalk this up as a "learning experience" and just
start over>> Thank you very much for your time. <<Happy to
share. EricR>> Tristan
Tank stand construction questions 9/20/05 Bob,
<Greg> First, your website is great! I have gotten tons of great
info over the past few years. thanks. <Welcome> I have 2
(unrelated) stand construction questions. 1.) I recently moved my 120g
reef Oceanic reef tank. In the rush of moving/setting it back up the
tank stand did not get perfectly level. <Mmmm,
"perfectly?"... oh, I see below> There are several places
where a sheet or two of paper would fit between the tank and the stand,
after 8 weeks it still hasn't settled in. To fix this right, it
seems I would have to take the tank down and fix level the stand - is
this worth doing? Is there any other recommended fix? <Mmm, you
might get by here by "cheating" a bit with placing some
freshwater under the low spots... having the hopefully wood stand swell
some> 2.) I need to construct a stand for a 225g acrylic reef tank,
60 X 24 X 36 (my guess is 3000lbs?). <A bit less likely... a few
hundred pounds shy> I have a 48in, 55g tank I would like to use as
the sump. To make access easy underneath, would 2X6 be sufficient to
support the 60in span for this tank? <Mmm, no... I would go with
four by... carriage bolt together...> If not all 60in, what would be
the max. spanning distance you would recommend for a 2X6 for this tank?
thanks. Greg <Would be nice to be able to "angle in" the
four foot long 55... and can likely be done with a bit of planning,
making a six legged stand... with the one center front middle upright
staggered off to one side a bit... I would make these four-bys as
well... Bob Fenner>
Stand Construction Question
8/19/05 Hi All, I've been in this tremendous hobby for over
5 yrs now and am more than hooked you could say. I have 2 55g tanks and
some smaller 10g tanks also. I have gotten the go ahead for a 300 g
tank in the lounge room and am putting it in the corner of the room. It
will be a pentagon shape. <Congrats!> I think it will be
4'x4'x18"x18" and 3'10" across the front and
26" high, with a sump underneath of what size I'm not sure
yet. It depends on the room I have as much as possible. <Sounds
great!> My question is: are there any particular plans for a stand
this size? I have shored up the floor after asking an engineer and am
confident of building it myself either out of wood or steel. Which do
you think is easiest and best? <Glad to hear that you have shored up
the floor. Wood and steel are both great materials for building a
stand, but each has some advantages and disadvantages. Most folks
don't consider welding the steel to be a Do It Yourself project and
it can rust. It is also harder to add an attractive facade to. Wood is
easier to work with, will never rust and is easy to modify, but it can
warp and/or rot. Given the unusual shape of your tank and the unusual
angles, it may not be much harder to go with steel. If you do choose
steel, I recommend having it powder coated, or if this service is not
available in your area, painted with a high quality epoxy paint. As for
plans, you won't find them specifically for this unusual tank, but
you may find some general tips with a Google search.> I am getting
the tank builder to make the tank in my lounge room and then it will be
just a case of lifting it up onto the stand, with a lot of help from
some friends I hope. Do I need to have a center piece underneath to
hold the middle up because if so, I will lose room for my sump?
<Probably not. Most tanks are designed to be supported only around
the perimeter to avoid pressure points on the bottom pane. Your tank
builder should be able to advise you on this and should use think
enough glass to be self supporting.> Thanks very much for your
wonderful and helpful site I read it everyday. Yours Scotty Tasmania
Australia <Glad you have benefited! Best Regards. AdamC.>
Place Foam under Acrylic tank? DIY Stand Question - 10/23/05
Hiya Ladies and Gents! Before I get to my question, I must say again
how right you are and I shouldn't have even bought a 13 gallon
marine aquarium. Living in a smaller Japanese house, I wasn't sure
how it would fit, but now it is the focal point of the house! While
I've had great success with it thus far, it would have been
surprisingly cheaper to 'go large' but I couldn't
understand the reasoning back then. Now I see clearly. I've learned
a lot about marine aquariums in a short time. 3-5 hours of nightly
'net' reading and a front row seat in front of the tank. Yes,
it's possible to be successful. No, I wouldn't suggest it to a
beginner. Ok, to the first question. I upgraded to a 66 gallon acrylic
tank today. Going to make my own stand (a few years and lots of tools
in the hobby to help me out). The LFS told me NOT to use a foam mat
under an acrylic tank as it will eventually begin to chemically react
and may 'glue' it self to it after a few years. Is this true?
Or is there another form of 'forgiving material' to use? Next
question is (if I can't use foam), what kind of finish am I able to
use for the stand top? A lacquer? Polyurethane finish? Bare wood (hmmm
unprotected wood and water = bad idea me thinks) Will these eventually
have chemical reactions to the acrylic? Thank you again for the
priceless resource! <Thank you for the kind words. Dana, I've
always used Styrofoam sheeting to place under my tank. Works well and
does not stick to the acrylic. As for finish, polyurethane is your best
bet with no negative effects. James (Salty Dog)>
Stand for 125G acrylic tank - 03/11/2006 Hi Crew,
<Tom> I've been reading up on DIY stands and seeing mention
of 2x4 and 2x6 framing & cross bracing required. The cabinet stands
I'm seeing in a couple of LFS's appear to be made of 3/4"
plywood sides, with a 3/4" plywood top to support the tank.
<Some of them, yes> I've seen this type of construction on
stands up to 24" deep (front to back) and 48-72" long, with
no other bracing...is this adequate for a tank that could weigh nearly
a ton? <Mmm, well... as a person posting "things" on an
open forum (the Net)... no. Much safer to encourage folks to use more
sturdy timbers, screw and/or bolt/nut together... using ply and such
for fascias> I'm planning to build a stand and would like to
avoid losing cabinet space to center bracing & divider walls inside
the cabinet, if I can. If one sheet is not enough, would two sheets of
3/4" plywood, or 1.5" total, be strong enough to support a
125G tank with only perimeter support? Thanks, Tom <Not IMO Tom...
Have you visited OzReef.org? Much good DIY info. there re aquarium
matters... As you state, this is a lot of weight... and in areas where
the ground shakes, or that such constructs might suffer lateral force
otherwise... I'd go with bracing the stand in all dimensions...
strongly. Bob Fenner>
Aquarium Stand 3/3/06 Hi Bob A friend who owns a
welding shop is planning on building an aquarium stand for my 125
gallon six foot tank. <Nice> He is using 2 inch square tubing for
the frame. The question he asked and I could not answer was: is it
better to build it with metal tubing all around the base of the
aquarium's foot print which touches the floor or build it with four
or six legs? <Mmm, better the latter... particularly in settings
where the flooring is not level, planar or worse... differentially
so... as in on wood supported by wood framing...> I thought it might
distribute the weight more not being on four or six legs but have it
resting on two inch tubing all around the base of the tank. I thought
it might be easier to level on four legs though. <Mmm, not really...
better (if necessary) to employ large shims under the longer,
continuous supports... and to measure with the tank filled and
empty...> Any help would be greatly appreciated as all the DIY
instructions I have found are for wooden stands. Thank you in advance.
Leta <Do see the excellent DIY site which is Ozreef.org for much
valuable input here. Bob Fenner>
Stand Construction Question - 1/30/2006 Good morning
Crew! Hope your weekend is going well. <All over... but wait! I
don't have a day job... every day's like a weekend day!> I
am in the process of building a new stand for my 200 GAL Oceanic glass
tank. The tank is 7' X 2' x 2' and was bought as a used
setup including the stand (but is looks like it has been rode hard and
put up wet! :-) ) <Can be dangerous...> Anyway, on to the
question. Since it is a glass aquarium, I understand that it is mostly
perimeter braced (i.e. normally just sitting on 2X4's around the
edges and the bottom glass bowing slightly is not a major concern.
<Yes> However, since it has 4 holes drilled in the bottom (which
I will be plugging up and drilling the back panel for my overflows and
returns) should I: A. Build the "standard" stand with only
perimeter support like this: http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y195/navajo001/frame.jpg B.
Build a stand with extra cross bracing for the tank to rest on like
this: http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y195/navajo001/framewithxbrace.jpg
C. Build a stand with the extra cross bracing (option B) and add
3/4" plywood on the top for the tank to rest on. <C. is your
best choice... or B., with a good/thicker piece of
"Styrofoam" under the edge and floating bottom> Your
assistance (once again) will be much appreciated. As always, your
efforts in this hobby are OUTSTANDING and the level of
concern/knowledge are truly appreciated. Keep up the good work and know
that countless lives (and probably marriages) have been saved/enriched
by your efforts. Tom (The Tool Man) <As you know Tom... more support
is better. Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Large Tank Stand Construction...No
Particleboard Please! - 03/30/06 Hi, I searched your archived
questions, but can't seem to find one about this specifically...
<<Ok>> I am planning on constructing a support base for a
rather large Fish Tank (approx 350-500 gal) and have seen photos where
they have apparently built the stand out of cabinets, but can't
exactly tell whether or not they are false cabinets with metal bracing
inside or not. My question is: if I construct the base from cabinets
which are 5/8" particleboard frames, which are installed on those
black plastic European-style leveling legs (each has a weight capacity
of 650 lbs), and have a Granite countertop installed on top of these
cabinets, do you think that the total weight would be able to be
supported by these cabinets? <<Mmm, no...I don't recommend
particleboard as a "weight bearing" structural support. Aside
from its low shear strength (as compared to dimensioned
lumber/structural beams), any amount of moisture will greatly
compromise it. As for the "leveling legs", they may be able
to support the weight but the particle board won't be able to
support them.>> I am assuming that at 8.5lbs/gal that I'm
looking at most at 4,250 lbs + about 800 lbs for the granite, but
should I also be considering plants/fish/coral/rocks/lid/pump etc. that
might add even more weight, or are those pretty unsubstantial in the
whole scheme of things? <<Not "unsubstantial" but will
displace some water so.... But don't forget to figure the weight of
the tank itself.>> So around 5,000 lbs is the weight, and there
would be 12 legs supporting this area, so that is 7,800 lbs capacity.
<<I highly recommend you NOT pursue this idea as
outlined.>> I would just like a 2nd opinion, because I'm not
too clear on the shear strength of the particleboard! I know you're
not engineers either, but maybe this is setting off alarm bells, or am
I just being overcautious? <<Is good to be overcautious
here...alarm bells ARE sounding...no, not an engineer, but wood
working/remodeling is my avocation. I have removed/replaced
load-bearing walls in my home, as well as designed and built the stand
for my own 375 gallon display (500 gallon system total). I recommend
you construct/frame your stand from "structural" materials
such as dimensioned lumber and then face it with cabinet material/doors
for the "look", if you desire. If nothing else, consult a
structural engineer about your idea/design...will be the best $100 you
could spend right now.>> Please let me know what you think
Thanks, Patrick Ryan Toronto, Ontario <<Regards,
EricR...Columbia, SC>>
Large Tank Stand Construction...No
Particleboard Please! II - 03/30/06 Wow, great info, thanks Eric,
good to know! Thanks for your help/advice! Patrick Ryan <<My
pleasure Ryan, hope it proves useful. Regards, EricR>>
A little freaked out ... drilled glass tank
worries/worrier 7/26/06 Hello Crew, well to the point.... I'm
literally days away from setting up my new 180, beautiful stand/canopy
done, LifeReef sump/skimmer, 6 *80W T5 with 2 * 250 MH HQI retro, etc
etc etc. I got great stuff and took my time buying and planning,
reading and asked lots of questions (a few here).. Well I'm just
about ready to go and I was on Reef Central tonight only to see a
picture of a 180 show like mine that cracked on the bottom that was
drilled!!! It has freaked me out a bit. My tank was built by a local
guy with 1/2 inch glass, I got All-Glass to send me their braces for
the top and bottom and siliconed in custom built acrylic overflows. The
bottom pane has 8 holes in it. 2 in each overflow and 4 in the corners
for Oceans Motions device. The tank I saw on RC cracked because his
holes were in the middle from the weight of the rock. So I would like
some reassurance or some pointers 1) Is this not safe? <Should be
fine> 2) I plan on a 4" DSB with 200 lbs of live rock so you
have idea of weight. 3) Can I support it better to be more strong along
with the All-Glass brace? Maybe Styrofoam or something. <A good idea
to assure the tank itself is on a support that is complete, strong,
level and planar... Have you read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/aqstands.htm
and the linked files above?> I can provide pics if needed, the stand
is solid and custom designed buy a contractor experienced in aquatic
design and is lipped so the bottom of the tank slides nice about
1" inside. Hopefully I am OK here and you calm me, but better safe
then sorry. Thanks Jeff <Likely all will work out here. Bob
Fenner>
Stand Dear Rob, Thanks for your help! Here is another
question: Can I do a stand in stainless steel that has been galvanized?
<Mmm, yes... if you can arrange for none of the galvanization to
rust, drop into the systems water... A good idea to coat over this
coating... perhaps with an epoxy paint.> What is galvanizing? <A
process for... use your search engine: "galvanizing"> My
LFS uses them for his stands, seems to be working fine without any hint
of rust. <Eventually... all ferrous materials oxidize/rust... it
"never sleeps" as the saying goes> I am thinking of this
route as wooden stand is rather too expensive. I heard that metal
stands are good for really big tanks, mine will have a weight of
800kg/m2 <Mmm, please read: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/tksstds.htm
Bob Fenner> Thanks in advance, John
Stand building 6/2/03 Sir, I would like to know the
load capacity of 2 10" wood I-beams they span 15 foot. I plan on
placing a 72"x24" fish tank with everything it will weigh
about 2500lbs.Thanks for any info you can give me. Glenn <alas, I
have no idea here my friend. But to find it, I'm sure there are
places on the web that list such data. Experiment with some keyword
phrases on Google.com I also recall seeing small handbooks at the local
DIY stores and lumber yards that have such measures and data in them.
If nothing else, this is a popular commercial aquarium size. Take a
peek at the stands for sale in local aquarium shops and online- they
are built frightfully modest yet still work. Build yours stronger and
rest assured. Best regards, Anthony>
Re: Glenn's stand-building question Hi guys, I
recently built a stand for a standard 90 gal tank with the help of a
contractor friend, and learned some things that might be useful to
Glenn or other would-be stand builders out there. According to this
contractor, an 8-foot-long 2x4 will support something like 7000 pounds
in compression (shorten that to a 3' length of 2x4 and that number
climbs dramatically). A normal framing nail will support up to 150
pounds of shear (force perpendicular to the nail). So these materials
truly are overkill for this type of application. This contractor had
wanted to build a box out of 1x2's with 3/4" plywood on all
sides. The plywood would be screwed and glued, and would be the actual
structure of the piece, responsible for bearing the weight. He thought
this would support much much more than my 90 gal. I'm sure this
would have worked great and been really easy to build, but I don't
like the look of normal plywood, or the price of the finished stuff, so
I used tongue-and-groove paneling (1x6) as the weight-bearing members,
all held together by an interior frame of 1x3's. 1 1/4 and 1
3/4" screws hold everything together. There is one feature of my
stand that I just love, and that is a sliding "drawer" for my
30 gal sump to sit on. The drawer sits on a set of heavy duty drawer
slides rated for 150 pounds, and lets me slide the sump out for service
instead of trying to squeeze myself into the stand to work on it. Just
my 2 cents. Thanks. Nick <Thank you for this. Will post for sharing.
Bob Fenner>
Aquarium Stands Hello again, Just wondering what your
recommendation was as to the best solid wood (i.e., poplar, oak, etc.)
stand and canopy product line for aquariums. <Poplar is good for
painting. Oak and Maple take stain well.> The All Glass Modern
Series is nice, but you cannot mount a retrofit lighting kit in their
hood, so they aren't going to cut it. What's your suggestion?
<I would look at DIY sites such as http://www.ozreef.org/ Also,
Oceanic makes a nice line of stand and canopies. You may get some good
ideas from looking at their models.> Thanks, Ben <You are
welcome. -Steven Pro>
- Sound Proofing the Stand - Hello people, <Hello,
JasonC here...> I must give kudos for all your hard work answering
the multitudes of questions you must receive daily. I am planning a 120
gal reef tank with an approx. 40 gal sump. I am planning to keep the
tank in my bedroom, because this is where I spend most of my time
(college student), and because there's no room anywhere else in the
house. I've read your responses to others with the same idea, and
the collective "you" seems to feel that the noise could cause
sleeping problems. <No one asked me... I've had numerous tanks
in my bedroom and have never had a problem sleeping with the sound
created by the mechanics of the tank. I've had much larger problems
with sounds that came from the tank itself... like the first time I
heard the clicking shrimp living there. Was like tiny gun shots in the
night...> With this in mind, I am considering using soundproof
Styrofoam panels on the insides of the stand, where the sump, pumps and
skimmer will be located. I'm going to assume that this will need to
be replaced periodically due to degradation via salt buildup, will this
decomposition cause problems for my tank (i.e. is Styrofoam toxic)?
<I think the Styrofoam will degrade a long, long time after the
stand itself does... the stuff is pretty durable and resistant to salt
water. Petrochemicals would be a different story.> Secondly, I plan
to paint the outside of the stand and the hood (also DIY) black, to
focus viewer attention on the display tank. I will of course search for
a low-toxicity paint for this purpose, how do you feel about my
painting the insides of the hood white, to reflect light and heat.
<Sure, why not.> What if chips fall into the tank somehow?
<Don't buy paint that will chip.> Lastly, I plan to light the
inside of the sump, to allow for a small refugium and the propagation
of algae to balance pH (lighting at times inverse to display tank). Do
you have any suggestions for this? <Uhh... suggestions about what?
Should you do it? What types of lights to use? Will you be able to
sleep with those lights on? I'm not sure which answer you are
looking for.> The lighting inside the sump would be NO or VHO. <I
would use normal fluorescent.> Thanks in advance! Quinn Kuiken
<Cheers, J -- >
Building a Sturdy Tank Stand Hello! >Hi! I really do
appreciate the open forum, and responsive answers that you provide! I
have read several articles related to my question, but just wanted some
more specific advice. >I'll do my best, but I'm not a
contractor, nor do I have contracting experience. I just bought a new
125Gal Acrylic tank from Tenecor, and plan on putting it in my living
room (main floor w/ basement below). >Fun-fun! Based on the
10lbs/per gal rule, plus the weight of the aquarium/stand/live rock - I
would guess that it is all going to weigh in the neighborhood of
1300-1400 lbs. >Yep. More specifically, salt water will weigh more
on the order of 8.5lbs/gal, but it's far better to err on the side
of caution. As I mentioned, there is a basement below, but the tank
would be up against the outside (load bearing) wall. The tank is 5ft
long, and would sit perpendicular to the floor joists, and span 4 floor
joists. Do you believe that I have enough support? >I'm a
California girl...what's a basement? J/K! Again, I would prefer to
err on the side of caution. Would it impede your use of the basement to
go ahead and place supports under the joists? If not, then I say do it.
Should I put some support poles from the basement floor to support the
joists directly below the aquarium? >Again, yes, I would just to be
safe. I'd also go with 4x4's, not 2x's. I'd use those
construction joiners, those funky metal plate thingies...(sheesh!
Listen to me...PETE!! Someone, stop me from looking so silly... oops,
too late!) Thanks again! Tim McLaren >You're very welcome!
Marina
Tank Stand Construction Hello Bob and Crew, Sorry to
keep bothering you guys. What can I say; if you weren't so good
than I wouldn't keep bothering you. I am currently in the planning
stages of constructing a taller tank stand. I haven't been
completely satisfied with the schematics currently available, so I have
created my own. This stand will have to support 1800 lbs (I added 300
lbs in there for wiggle room). It will be 61 inches long (tank is 60),
25 inches deep (tank is 24) and 34 inches tall. I will be using 4 x 4s
and a couple 2 x 4's. I have attached the design (created in MS
Paint). Specifically, I would like to know 1). if it is a solid design,
2). What changes should be made, 3). Whether the 28 inch access opening
is too much for the top (2) 2 x 4s to handle (or if I could go up to 30
inches for an access opening), 4). I believe I built a lot of safety
into this stand so would like to know if I can get away with pine
construction or should use Poplar. <Your design didn't come with
your post, but let me just comment on these questions and make a
suggestion for your design. I suggest framing the walls just like house
framing, w/2X4 studs, top and bottom plates, California corners. (see
any home improvement book). The only change would be to place the top
plate 2X4's "on edge" to support spans (or use 2X6's
for your opening span). I wouldn't put an aquarium on top of a 2X4
spanning 28". I would use 2X6's (on edge, *not flat*), built
like a floor spanning the entire stand, and then 3/4" ply
platform. With good framing the sheeting/cover serves to stiffen the
structure and can be most any wood of your choice.> Please keep in
mind this will be an acrylic aquarium and the entire top of the
stand's frame will be covered in either 3/4" or 1"
pressure treated plywood (suggestions on which I should use?). Thank
you in advance for looking over these plans. You guys rock...no, hold
on...YOU GUYS ROCK! Thanks, Mike <Make sure there is support across
the frame to support the plywood full length and width. (Part of
placing top plate on edge, as cross supports can be easily
accommodated) Do NOT use pressure treated plywood, just paint regular
ply with latex and use a 1" Styrofoam sheet on top of that to
handle surface irregularities. I suggest ply for the sides as well for
stiffness/strength. Hope this helps! Craig>
Tank stand Hi <Hello there> I was wondering
if you could help me. I'm looking to make a stand to hold 2 tanks,
1 tank is 48long x 12deep x 18high inches while the other is 30x12x15
inches. I would like the larger tank to be on top. I was looking at
building the stand out of wood probably 2x4 but I then heard some one
talking about shelves. I think the water volume from the big tank would
be too bigger pressure on a shelf, but thought I would ask for your
opinion any way. <Mmm, could be built of wood, maybe with six or
eight feet/uprights, instead of four at the corners... that is, two or
four more supports under the lower shelf for the smaller tank> The
area the stand would go is in an alcove so it could have support on 3
sides from the wall (brackets?), <Sturdy ones> I'm not
plumbing the 2 tanks together. I've looked on loads of websites but
can't find any diagrams or anything referring to a stand for 2
tanks. <Maybe take a look over the premier DIY aquarium site:
ozreef.org Bob Fenner>
Will the Real (Good) Tank Stand Please
Stand Up? Cheers Fellas, <John> I want to build a tank for a
370 Gallon acrylic aquarium. It will be a basic stand no veneer oak
just 6"x6" beams, the aquarium is going into the wall. Would
6x6" beams be adequate enough to hold the weight of a 370G
saltwater fish only aquarium. Thanks John <Definitely so... a few
further comments... drilling, carriage bolts, washers, nuts would be
the fastener route I would go... and I'd attach a good thickness
(3/4" or better) of plywood on top of the uprights... and if 6
bys, space them every three feet... Bob Fenner>
Tank Cabinet Was looking for some help. I was
wondering if you could point me in the right direction for some DIY
plans on building a cabinet for my tank. It is a 75 gallon, 48x18x20. I
am looking to build a cabinet that would allow me to store a 20"
tall sump, with enough room for me to access my Euro-reef cs61 skimmer.
I searched your FAQs and have already checked OZREEF. Any other places
for plans? <None right off hand... You can check FAMA's
collections of "For What It's Worth"... go to a library,
use a computer there to do a computer search for info... or have
friends look over your drawn plans for making it... two by's
likely... drilled and carriage bolted to allow you to disassemble...
Easy to do. Bob Fenner>
DIY Wood Stand Question Dear Crew, Good
day. My question today is about DIY wood stands. I plan to replace my
50G metal stand. Dimension is 36 L x 18W. Can I get by without a
vertical support in the middle? I intend to use 2 x 4 wood planks. <
Sure as long as the wide part is vertical and not horizontal. You
probably could get by with the 2x4 running flat and not on the edge,
but over the long run wood warps and some of the lumber lately is not
the greatest around. I would tend to over build it, especially here in
California where my tanks occasionally have to ride out an
earthquake.-Chuck> Thanks and regards.
Jason. C new (tall) stand... Hmm...
didn't send any images with this email as the first two
attempts with included images bunked. Let's try one - is a
picture of the new tank and stand - was going to get your
opinion... perhaps I will send to WWM mail - can post on the
dailies for all... J --
<Nice stand... tall but well-braced. Bob F> |
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Had this feeling you might say that...
<Ahh, I AM becoming that predictable... I like it when I am
known to my friends> was thinking about putting a small cabinet
in one of those open sides - would that and diagonal braces on the
far wall help - was also going to put a nice outer cover around
it... but not right away... perhaps if I just cover that one far
side and brace that? <On all four fronts... okay! Bob F>
Thanks,
J -- |
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