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Changing over a Reef to A FOWLR Hi Guys & Girls: My daughter and I have tried our luck with a reef set-up for the last 20 months. Unfortunately we never been able to keep our corals alive. We are considering to change over to a FOWLR. Are set-up is: 45 gallon AMiracle SL5 wet/dry with built in protein skimmer( I have removed the bio balls) 2 powerheads pc light 1.5 live sand 70 lbs of live rock 3 stage RO for water No fish at this time Questions: can I remove some of the live rock? Can I get away with only about 30 lbs? <Not if this is exclusively being used as the bio-filter.> Should I add more live sand? <Not necessary> And if so how much and what is the procedure? Any other tips for the change over would be appreciated. Read over some of the FAQ's on FOWLR's here. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fowlrmntfaqs.htm > Thanks in advance - Randy <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)> FOWLR- tangs, butterflies, or angels? Dear Dr. Fenner: < It would be Mr. but regardless Blundell happy to be with you today. > I have read and re-read (devoured) your book and it has proved to be very helpful in setting up and maintaining my 90 gallon FOWLR tank. The tank has been running for seven months with no problems. It has 110 lbs. of Tonga LR and 120 lbs of LS about 3 inches deep, a Model 150 Berlin wet/dry sump with bag filter, a Model 150 protein skimmer and a Mag drive 9.5 pump. Lighting is a Coralife double linear compact unit. The sump is also equipped with two sponge filters and two bags of Chemi-Pure resin. I change 5 gallons of water weekly and also the filter bag (sock?). I also keep a 10 gallon QT. < This all sounds good. > Present occupants of the tank are: a 4.5 inch Hippo Tang, a 4.5 inch Foxface, a 3 inch flame angel, a fairy wrasse, an ocellaris clown, and 3 blue-green chromis. The clean-up crew is comprised of 10 red-leg hermit crabs, 10 turbo snails, two sand stars and a peppermint shrimp. < I think you need a ton more snails and a ton more crabs. I'd say starting with 50 of each would be a good idea, but we'll see what your question is first. > Two recent additions (in the past one or two months) are a rose bubble tip anemone and a long tentacle anemone in the hope of getting the clown to co-habit. < To me this changes your tank from a FOWLR to a beginning reef tank. > While the anemones seem to be thriving the clown ignores them. < I would NOT buy an anemone for an anemone fish to host in. This is generally a bad idea. I would start with Xenia or even a Sarcophyton as a host. They are easier to keep and anemone collection is causing problems. > I am planning to add about two more fish to the tank and am considering either a majestic angel or a juvenile emperor angel I realize that an emperor will outgrow the tank in a relatively short time (about 1 year?) and will have to be moved back to my dealer at that time. < Again, I'd be careful here. I wouldn't buy a fish knowing I would have to trade it back in. > The other fishes I am considering are a Copperband butterfly or Pearlscale butterfly, although the latter may nip at the anemones which is why I would like the clown to adopt one of them. < As long as you have nice live rock and a healthy refugium either butterfly should be fine. > As an alternative to the butterfly I am also considering another tang. Would love to have a Powder blue but am concerned about the reaction with the Hippo and the reported difficulty in keeping the Powder blue. < They are difficult. But there are dozens of other tangs you could look at. I would recommend that. > Another possibility would be a gold-rim tang. < Good choice. > I would very much appreciate getting your comments on which angel (if any) to choose and also about the butterflies and tangs. < In this case, tangs. Especially for a few years until you are really sure about your system. > Thanks for your help and I love your web site! < Good luck. > Dick Duffee. < Blundell > FOWLR 29 gal Q's 8/15/05, lighting, filtration Hello crew, First off, thanks for all your time and knowledge that have gone into this most useful website. Hopefully, I have a few simple Q's you can answer. I am currently re-setting-up my 29 gallon FOWLR after a move. I currently have ~25 lbs live rock and 1 Banggai Cardinal (lost his brother in the move :(. I have two 130 powerheads for circulation in the tank and both an AquaC skimmer and a Skilter that is only used for mechanical filtration on the tank. Its bare-bottomed and I would prefer to keep it that way. I would like to upgrade a bit to some mushrooms and soft, easy to keep corals. First, I am thinking of upgrading my lights (currently 2x24" 50/50 fluorescents) to compact fluorescents. Which would you recommend -- a single 55w fixture or one of the double fixtures? <Double for sure> And would you go with the fixtures made by current USA or recommend the DIY approach with Aquarium Hobby Supply (I prefer the latter, help the small guy approach, but are his systems that much "better" (brighter) than then the others, as he claims?). <Manufacturer unimportant...> Second -- I don't know if I should keep the "Skilter" on the tank or not. Do I need more filtration than the skimmer and live rock? <I would leave it on... no harm, many benefits> If so, do you recommend keeping the Skilter or using something else. I really would prefer not to get into a sump at this time or with this small a system. Any and all opinions greatly appreciated here. Thanks for you time and effort, Scott <Thank you for writing, sharing. Bob Fenner> -New FOWLR- I haven't even started yet and am so confused as the best way to go. <Kevin here today> I have read just about everything on your web site and many others. In my personal opinion I think your site is the most informative! Here are some of the things I know I want: FOWLR- want to convert to coral reef when new house is built. LR- Fiji mostly DSB with sugar fine sand 3" deep Starfish, crabs, shrimp etc ( I will learn about which ones later) Fish- whatever is compatible (don't have my heart set on any) From here on everything gets really confusing. What I currently have is: 80g L-48"x W-18"x H-20" (not pre-drilled) Fluval 402 canister filter (willing to not use if best) <You can run it periodically for activated carbon, otherwise keep nothing in it.> 2 reg. light fixtures, came with tank.<Fine for live rock> I've read that I should have apprx. 1 lb. LR for every gal. Does this include the base rock? <I suppose not, but it is best to use all live rock to get the most biodiversity> I plan on cycling with LR no animals. ( I'm just oozing with patience.) <Great!> What is the best and most practical way to get started. <Cure the LR in the tank, install the sandbed, then hurry up and wait. As the tank establishes don't forget to add bits of food and phytoplankton to get all the LR and LS critters going and to provide a nitrogen source.> I'm not made of money so I donut want to buy the wrong things. <You'll need a good protein skimmer (recommend AquaC or Precision Marine) and a few powerheads for water circulation. It is up to you whether or not you install a sump underneath the tank for your heaters and skimmer.> Since I have decided that your site is the one I will be using for my info I would appreciate a push in the right direction so I can get started. <You've been pushed, hit us back with any more questions! -Kevin> Connie Water parameters for a FOWLR 06/16/03 Hey crew, <Hi Adam, PF with you tonight.> I have a 40 gallon eclipse style aquarium, that is going to be emptied, purified (bleach.) and redone for a FOWLR setup. I have been reading into calcium and alkaline requirements, and am starting to get scared off of live rock. <Well, really, there's nothing to be scared of. LR is about as undemanding as you can get.> What all do I need to monitor and add buffers/supplements for to stabilize aquarium, since there will be a difference between a FO and FOWLR setup. (our transition since we used copper in display tank). <Ok, if this is the same tank, then forget the LR. Copper never really comes out of a tank, it soaks into the sealant, etc. If so, then buy a new tank, and use the old one as a very large QT.> We have two fish in it right now, a lunar wrasse (going to be adopted when too big) and a false/blue eye puffer. They will be put into Q tank while fixing/cycling tank. I use UV sterilized water for the Local Grocery store, and after adding salt I add it directly into tank. <You should aerate the water with the salt in it at least for 24 hours, many people aerate before hand too.> Since this is a weekly 5 gallon change, it doesn't fluctuate temp or anything at all. My pH is steady at 7.8 which is a tad low, but steady. What can I do to correct this? <Buffer your SW, you can use a small amount of baking soda for this. Try 1 teaspoon per 10/gallons and test.> Again, this is without a skimmer, or aerator which soon will be added. Will this help increase pH? <No, it will not.> And in general what else should I watch for when having a LR setup. I probably will have some sort of a calcium drip (if needed??), to reach desired levels for some nice algae growth... <You can also use a two part buffer, such as B-Ionic, there are several brands out there to choose from. That will buffer your water as well as provide calcium for your algae.> But corals are not going to be successful, or attempted. So what parameters should I be aware of for healthy water/Rock/fish/algae. I've read that as long as you don't have corals or clams etc that require specific amounts of calcium, as long as you do small weekly water changes, your parameters in your water will be ok. Is this correct? <Yes, but since your pH is kind of low, look at buffering. Start here and read on: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm> Thanks for your time, Adam <Have a good night, PF> 125 gallon fish and invertebrate tank Hi, my name is Dave, I was wondering what I should use for a 125 gallon tank. Right now it is set up for fresh water. I plan on changing over in the next month or so. I will be using about 150 lbs of live rock and live sand. I wish to use some corals and other small animals. the lighting I am using is power-compact at 390 watts. I was wondering on what kind of filtration I should use. I have a Fluval 404 running right now with two aqua clear powerheads model number 802. I was looking at the tidepool and was wondering if that would be enough. If so what type of skimmer and UV light should be purchased with that. Oh yeah which pump should be run the tidepool <Dave, if it were me I would buy the best skimmer I could and use a basic sump. You want to turn over 10-20x the tank capacity in water flow each hour. Hope this helps, Don> thanks a million Dave - Mixing Fish and Inverts - Hello again, I had other questions I forgot to ask. <Ok.> Can you keep any of these fish: Heniochus, long-nosed butterfly, or a flame angel in a tank with some inverts, including cleaner shrimp, feather duster, brittle star, hermit crabs and turbo snails? <A few of those inverts, like the cleaner shrimp, brittle star, and hermit crabs would be fine - others, like the feather duster, would eventually get picked at eventually.> I thought that you couldn't, but in the Conscientious Marine Aquarist there are pictures that show these fish with some of those inverts. So what is the story, would any of those fish be better than the others for housing with the inverts I mentioned? My main concern would be my shrimp because I love him the most. <The shrimp should be fine.> Thanks a lot, Kylee Peterson <Cheers, J -- > INVERTS ONLY? 3/24/03 Is anybody doing Invertebrate Only display tanks (IOWLR?)? <many aquarists... more so Europeans> Is that too boring for most? <good heavens no!!! There is an unbelievable amount of life forms that sprout from live rock that never would otherwise with grazing and predatory fishes. Its a surefire way to grow an incredible macroalgae/plant tank from scratch> Would the "pods"/infauna overrun the tank for lack of predators, or would a wide variety of inverts balance itself out? <depends on if you mean "corals" by inverts... if so, yes. They will eat very well <G>> Maybe this is answered in the new book, but it isn't shipping yet :( Regards, Rich (never more anxious for a book to arrive!) <me too my friend <G>. Great question, best regards... Anthony> 30G FOWLR Hi Guys! <Right back at you Dave, Don here today> Thanks again for your expertise in the past. Nowadays time is money, and you at WWM donate a ton of time answering our questions day in, and day out with no compensation. I just wanted to tell you that we appreciate it. Not to mention the amount of aquatic life that appreciates the less lethal living conditions! <Whew, Thanks for the kind words.> My inquiry today is in regards to a new marine setup I'm trying to put together. It's a 30L, I wish to use live rock as my primary bio - filtration. I would like to have a flame angel, a yellow tang, a yellow - headed Jawfish, and possibly a trigger. I think the trigger might be too much for this small tank, do you agree? I plan to buy a wet/dry trickle filter with a 75Gal capacity and an AquaC Urchin skimmer. Should I start the tank without bio - balls, or should I remove them down the road when/if my nitrates start climbing? Also, as far as the live rock is concerned, (my LFS has great stuff) will my lighting be sufficient to sustain any soft corals riding along? I have a twin - tube NO setup, with two 36" 50/50 bulbs (half full spectrum/half actinic blue). I guess not, although the tank is only 16" tall. I plan to use sugar fine aragonite sand for my substrate, is 4 inches sufficient for the Jawfish? Do you recommend any specific brands? How about GARF Grunge, and their cleaning crews? I want to have enough life in the tank to supplement feedings for my herbivores, will this cleaning crew 'sanitize' my aquarium? Thank you at the crew for your time again, and any suggestions would also be appreciated. I know I'm taking advantage of you by putting 6,000 questions together all jumbled in one, but I'd rather find out now, than harm innocent marine life! <OK, Dave, here goes. A 30G long as in 36"x16"x12". Sorry, cannot advise the addition of any tang to this setup. Minimally, these fish will hit 8-10" up to 24" depending on species. Kinda like living in a closet, eh? I sure wouldn't want to. The trigger won't fair much better. I would stay away from these fish. The flame angel may be OK size wise, but most angels like to be able to stretch their fins and go full bore, peddle to the metal and 36" is not much room to do this. I would stick with compatible fish up to about 4" in size. You could wait and remove the bio-balls later, but personally, I would not use them from the beginning. IME cleaning crews are best bought as individuals. You can customize the makeup and get just what you want. I would think a diverse mix of snails will do you well. For pods and such, maybe you can get a cup or two from a friend or LFS and then inoculate your tank with that. You will still have some manual maintenance. Siphoning gunk that accumulates, water changes, etc. But the cleaners will help. Aragonite is aragonite, I would recommend the sugar fine as you stated. Your lighting will support low light needing mushrooms and maybe polyps with the same needs. Hope all this helps. Don> P. S. Great book Bob! --- Dave A Starting over Fish Only with Live Rock Dear WWM Crew, What an incredible discovery your website was last year! Thank you so much. Only problem, INFORMATION OVERLOAD! I could use some advice and guidance. Be prepared as I am describing the past year in order to give you a clear picture and save me from bailing out. I have been trying my hand at this hobby for quite a few years now with a 5 year hiatus between the start and now. I have yet to be "successful" and after countless attempts and reevaluations I am now at a crossroad and utterly confused. Nothing I do ever seems to work, and I continue to make what seems like bad or wrong decisions. I read and read and read and sometimes due to monetary limitations I guess I make bad decisions on all fronts. I am constantly ridiculed by friends and family with statements like "why don't you just pack it in" or "save your money" or "when are you gonna give up". As a devout lover of the ocean and fellow diver (though not nearly often enough) it is my goal to prove them wrong and conquer this damn hobby if it is the last thing I do!! So here goes with my current situation, and I shall ask your patience and thank you in advance for your attention and assistance: <Do not strive to conquer, learn to co-exist> I have and All Glass Aquarium standard 55 gallon tank, about .75 inch of crushed coral substrate, a bunch of natural (but dead) corals for decoration, 300 watt titanium heater (brand new and very nice), Amiracle 100 gallon wet/dry filer with Bio Balls and a RIO 2100 600+ g/ph return pump with one return spout, new Seaclone style 100 gallon protein skimmer, lighting currently is simply two f40t8 lamps (at this moment I couldn't even begin to tell you where they stood on the lighting scale), I have been running some sponge filters in my sump in preparation for my quarantine tank and restocking of my display tank. I have no specific chemical readings for you at the moment for reasons you shall soon understand just from reading, but do know that based upon your info I will no doubt get the water quality where it should be before I move forward to save/restock my tank. The tank as it currently is described (less the protein skimmer) was set up last April of 2002. The tank went through what appeared to be a normal cycling with 5 inhabitants at the time. As many before me I was not aware of the importance of quarantine and placed into the tank directly from Petco, 4 Blue Devil Damsels and one (1) Humbug. As stated the cycling appeared to start and be normal with the brown diatom algae bloom first, followed by the red slime algae bloom, and then to what I thought was nice green algae. At this point all chemical levels (ammonias, nitrates, nitrites, ph) were stabilized and doing beautifully. Book perfect. I hit my peaks, then valleys, then stabilization as expected. I felt "WOW" guess I am ready to add some more neighbors to the mix, and without the proper research (before I found you) I went out, purchased, and immediately introduced a Yellow Tang and a Boxfish. All seemed hunky dory for about two weeks then it hit……I think it was Ich. They all had it. Everyone of them. The Tang even had black specks compounded by the white. I panicked and rushed to try and repair the damage via quarantine recommendations from WWM) and removal from the main tank into a hospital tank so as to let the main tank lay fallow and try to break the cycle. So awesome to see the Humbug clean the Tang of his spots. No need for further details on this situation as it ended dismally. Everyone perished, for reasons I could list but the dead are not my focus here. The only two survivors? One Blue Damsel (extremely evil and aggressive) and the Humbug. After about 60 days of being uninhabited and laying fallow I reintroduced the two survivors back into the display tank. From August 2002 to just last week, Feb. 2003, the tank remained with only these guys and eventually just the damsel who died last week. Now my tank is empty except for what I can only guess is a real bad case of Cyano (blue green) which covers everything. This is the algae I thought was a good thing in the beginning of this story but have since learned what it is. After reading countless articles on WWM I accepted the Cyano diagnosis and proceeded to purchase a Seaclone style protein skimmer to start the combat of the Cyano. Since then I have had another hit to the ego to learn that the Seaclone style skimmer is amongst the least desirable on the market and that most enthusiasts recommend to stay away. OUCH!!! Another blow to the head, the ego,, and the pocketbook. So the skimmer has been running now for about a week. Lots of bubbles and the cyclone effect actually does not look like what they picture in all the ads. My cyclone is actually pretty low in the reaction tube, only about a third the way up. The rest is a "bubble storm". I believe this is good and what would be created if I modified the skimmer according to all the recommended modifications offered by others. The modifications I have received and read about all claim to increase efficiency of the skimmer. I don't think I have to modify, yet after one week I still have no foam. Is this possible? I sort of want to think so since I don't currently have anything really creating organics , nor was there ever a real long period of time where a heavy biological burden was placed on the system from the inhabitants. Do you think I need to worry yet about the skimmer? <The Seaclone takes a lot of tinkering, (have you tried changing the pump intake depth? A very small change (1/8") can be the difference between some foam and no foam) If you want consistent results with little 'tuning' and 'tweaking' then another skimmer would be in order.> Ok, so this is where we stand at this point. In a nutshell. I now have a 55 gal tank that was inhabited for about 3 months before it became infected by parasites about 8 months ago. It has since become completely uninhabited and seems to be overcome by Blue Green Cyano. Please read this part carefully I REALLY WANT TO MAKE THIS WORK, DON'T KNOW WHERE TO START OR WHAT TO DO, BUT I DO KNOW WHAT I WANT…..PLEASE HELP!!! After reading and combing through the countless pages on WWM I have become completely confused and overwhelmed, but I at least know a couple things now: 1) I needed to purchase, and did purchase Mr. Fenner's book. YEAH!! Waiting on delivery. <Very good indeed. Enjoy the read> 2) I think that I need to and want to add live rock (45 lbs. Fiji for the time being, is there a max amount I should consider?) to the picture to aid my success and am willing to spend the money and make the investment. I will also incorporate my current existing dead coral d?or if that's ok? <Live rock is a good 'natural' filtration system. 40-60# for the 55 I think. Using the old stuff should be OK> Since my tank is empty at the moment I am thinking of the following scenarios for curing the rock: a. Leave the tank in its current state of being uninhabited and covered in Cyano, but continuing to run the filter system until I can purchase the lighting system described below in question #4 and the live rock. This may take a month or two because of finances. I will then cure the rock in the main tank and once ready begin a proper stocking scenario. <Cleaning as much of the Cyano from the existing landscape will help as well. As you have learned, proper 4 week minimum QT for all new additions> b. Buy a couple of new Damsels to throw in the tank to keep the biological filter going until I can purchase and begin scenario (a). Should I quarantine them before I introduce them into the display? I will then purchase the rock and the new lighting system. Should/can I cure rock in the main tank with the Damsels? Once cured, per all the info on WWM I will then begin the proper stocking procedures. <I would never use ANY fish to cycle a tank. Barbaric and simply unnecessary IMO. The live rock will more than take care of that process> c. Stock the main tank temporarily with Damsels and cure rock outside of tank using my old 2 bulb lighting system for the cure period. Once the rock is cured and placed, then begin the restock main tank. Of course with the new lighting system and proper procedures. <Again, I would not use the damsels. Since your tank is empty and will cycle with the new rock, I would progress that way. It will take at least 4 weeks to cycle/cure the rock and you can introduce your first fish to QT at the same time.> d. Empty the entire tank. Clean it all down and start fresh and new. I am actually trying to avoid this last option, but will if you suggest. If so, I guess per your recommendations than I could then cure the rock in the main tank once all is reassembled. <Nah, don't think this is necessary. Water changes during the rock curing process will help> 3) I would like the tank to be inhabited by fish and simple inverts (to be determined and researched). No corals or others that would require MH lighting. To difficult as I have yet to conquer the simple and I also am not able to accommodate spatially or financially. 4) I am willing to redesign and spend the $$ on a new lighting system to achieve all of this. After more research I think a Compact fluorescent system shall do the trick. I am looking at the four (4) x 65 watt Coralife unit which consists of 2 - 10,000K bulbs and 2 - Actinic bulbs. Because I have the All Glass Aquarium tank stand and hood that is specifically designed by All Glass for this tank, I am limited in space and dimensions as far as lighting is concerned. No to mention functionality and ease of access to the top of the tank through the canopy door on top. I think this one will fit and will work for what I would like to keep. 260watts is almost 5 watts per gallon. Fits your suggestions for tank lighting. What do you think? <I think that your original lighting would suffice. As long as it is bright enough to see the fish. If you want the additional illumination then by all means go ahead. BTW lighting should be designed for inhabitants and there is no one way (or rule, like 5 watts/gal) for this> 5) Do I need to change my substrate? Add to it? <Less than 1" or more than 4" of sugar fine aragonite sand is recommended> 6) Do you think I need to plumb additional returns from the RIO pump in the wet/dry sump to create more movement in the tank? I would really hate to start adding power heads to the mixture. So ugly!! What do you suggest here? <More water movement will help keep the BGA at bay. Maybe a second pump?> I think this about covers it for today. Unless of course I come up with more. Please know that I plan I also buying your NEW book on inverts hopefully this week. Funds a bit tight but I will try and squeeze it. Keep an eye out for my order. <Well, I have nothing to do with the new book directly and am impatiently awaiting my own copy! But I will pass your kind words along. Take care, Don> Thanks so much for being you, Louis Rizzo - FOWLR Setup - Hi Gents, <Greetings, JasonC here...> I am currently in the process of setting up a FOWLR tank with the following equipment (as recommended by my LFS): 285 Litre tank (115cm x 55cm x 45cm) Eheim Pro II 2026 Canister, UG Filter driven by 2 x 950L/H Powerheads, 5 - 10cm cover of Crushed Marble substrate, 10-15kg of Live Rock (not yet added, should come this week) I have a few questions as I am new to the scene: I plan on keeping 2 x ocellaris clown fish, a yellow tang or royal blue Tang, a damsel or two, and possibly a gamma. 1) Would the filtration be sufficient for this amount of fish given that they will be introduced slowly?? <Hmm... a loaded question... first, under-gravel filters are rather outdated. They do work, but there are better, more efficient means for establishing biological filtration. Live rock would be one of the better options. Likewise, crushed marble is a terrible choice for substrate in a marine aquarium - you would be better off with crushed coral and/or coral sand. The Eheim canister will work as advertised.> 2) What sort of skimmer would you recommend for a tank this size?? <I would go for an AquaC Remora if you can get them in your area.> 3) Due to my very limits experience (reading for last 3 months & currently setting up the tank), would I be best not to cycle the tank with LR, and do it another way, and then add the LR at a later stage?? <I would cycle the tank with live rock and skip the damsels - your own experience can only benefit.> 4) Any other suggestion you could make to keep this type of setup as self sustainable as possible. <Keep reading.> Cheers Glen Stewart <And cheers to you, J -- > FOWLR Philosophy... First let me start by letting all of you know that you provide a great deal of service to those of us who are beginning in the hobby or are still learning, so, thank you ahead of time. <Hey- we all are! I learn something new every day! (and screw something up every other day- so I think I come out ahead of the game...). Scott F. with you tonight> My background: 50gln with two maroon gold band clowns, cleaner wrasses, yellow tail Coris wrasses, juv. majestic, Auriga butterfly, and a clean up crew of crabs and snails with approximately 60lbs of live rock. <Lots of life. really, too much life, in there!> I am moving up to a 125gln this month, however, I am so confused at this point I'm stalled on what to do. <Glad that you're moving up...good> My wife and I love the color and motion of coral and movement of fish. My LFS is leading me in the direction of a fish only tank, no live rock and bedding layer of and inch or less, reason being in case of disease or illness its easier to treat. <Well- yes and no...I still hate treating fishes in the display tank...just too difficult to maintain therapeutic doses of medications, in my opinion, along with other potential problems> Up to this point I've not had a Q-tank, I bought a 13gln yesterday, point being I've been treating the tank with limited success which I now know is not optimum. <Nope-get that Q tank and you'll be so much more successful-trust me on this...!> The "professional" says that in the case of a fish only tank I could just add copper ( ich outbreak for example) and not worry about the inverts. <Well, yes- but again- there are some difficulties that I think make this an undesirable approach> I know that even quarantine is not 100%, so you see my dilemma. <True. But you will enjoy much greater control and success at preventing and intervening against potential diseases if you employ this approach.> Is there a logical answer to my question that I am overlooking? It seems to me since we are trying to duplicate nature we would want both but since we are operating on a closed system and a much smaller scale things change. <I understand your dilemma, but I think that the FOWLR approach is the best way to set up a "fish" tank, if for no other reason than the fact that it relies on biology and natural materials and processes, rather than technical props to achieve the results that you want. If you take a "holistic" approach, I think that you'll be fine. Run that FOWLR tank with the same diligence and careful management as you would an SPS reef, and you'll win every time! Your guidance is very helpful, Thank you. Suniga <And thank you for stopping by! Good luck with your new system! Read and learn on the WetWebMedia.Com site about the many approaches to "fish-only" systems! Regards, Scott F. Practical Fishkeeping Articles on FOWLR Greetings from chilly Norway <cheers, from America my friend> There was recently a 4 or 5 part series in the British rag Practical Fishkeeping on how to construct a simple FOWLR tank - did you see these articles, do you have any comments. <it is one of the only UK mags we receive here in the US. I usually enjoy reading this publication but our crew has been bogged down with final work on our new book as of late. I regret that we haven't had the pleasure. I'll be sure to hunt it down though> My wife read my copy (which I keep in the toilet) and seemed enthused, <she's enthused that you read in the toilet?. Interesting... I like how easily enthused she is... sounds like a very fine and supportive wife> especially by the cost, less than 1000 UK pounds. <ahhh, yes... that too> Horror - water shortage here, so hydroelectric power has doubled in price, and may double again Wayne <wow! My condolences to your pocketbook! If by chance you have access to a scanner, could I trouble you to fax along a copy of the pertinent article(s)? Else let me trouble you with a synopsis by e-mail in reply and your specific questions my friend. With kind regards, Anthony> 40 GALLON FISH AND INVERT SETUP Hello gentlemen, I just recently stumbled onto your website after having finished Bob's book (CMA), which I found to be quite informative! I have been dabbling in the keeping of marine aquaria for approximately 4 years but following a recent move, decided to start a new system with all the knowledge I can possibly acquire in order to insure the comfort of my wet pets. <good plan> In the past I had the frustrating experience of all too many new to the hobby encounter: i.e. a world of misinformation from uninformed retail clerks eager to pawn off whatever equipment and critters they have in stock. After spending an absurd amount of money on the wrong equipment and losing much of my livestock, I vowed to become the better keeper. My new system (planning on starting as a fish and invert tank and eventually adding some corals to the mix.) has been up and running for nearly 2 months now, and I have a couple of questions for you if you will. I will begin by providing the details of my setup: -I have a 40 gallon glass tank (36" x 12" x 24") which I realize is a bit smaller than recommended, however the investment has already been made. -40 lbs live sand -33 lbs live rock currently (Fiji and Florida Gulf aquaculture) I have been adding piece by piece with the goal of around 50 lbs to be attained in the near future -AquaC Remora protein skimmer with Maxi Jet 1200 -Whisper Second Nature 3 backpack filter with carbon inserts / bio media -Heater and thermometer (of course!) -Single 24" 30 watt florescent which I plan to upgrade to a PC ASAP or should I say ASAP$$$ My inhabitants are as follows: 10 turbo snails 19 blue legs 1 scarlet reef hermit 2 yellow tail blue damsels I plan on adding a flame angel, a yellow tang, a hippo tang, and some gobies, along with a cleaner shrimp, some mushrooms and buttons for now I perform weekly 5 gallon water changes with aged tap water salt mix. (I prepare the next weeks water at the time I perform the change) First off - can you offer any advice as to my general setup? Does this sound like an appropriate mix of equipment and inhabitants? I know that the Whisper filter is not very powerful but I decided to keep it for the carbon and the bio media. Is this necessary or am I wasting my money on replacement cartridges? <This sounds like a nice mix of inhabitants and equipment. I would however leave out the Hippo Tang, this fella will grow too large for this set up. The Yellow tang should be purchased small and plan on him being the largest fish in the tank. Whisper filter sounds like a good place to put carbon, I would leave out the bio media, the Live Rock will be able to handle this portion of the filtration.> With regards to the live rock, it is teeming with life (especially the Gulf rock) I have found among other critters 2 small white/clear anemones which I have yet to identify - possibly Meridian senile if they are found in Florida's waters, and some burrowing clams which seem to be doing well, although this is difficult to ascertain considering my definition of well is that they open and close and are responsive to my sudden movements in the tank (they snap shut). There are also a number of feather dusters of various types which have actually been spawning. Additionally I found 2 button polyps and some other unidentified coral - they are in small clusters are a brownish color and have tiny little antenna looking things around them. Any ideas? I know my lighting right now is insufficient to support the corals and anemones, so my question is whether to remove the anemones now or should I cross my fingers and hope they survive another month until I am able to afford the new PC? <Could be many things. Check out Paul Humann's Reef Creature and Reef Coral books for ID of Atlantic cnidarians. You will need to discover what they are before you will know their requirements.> Finally, (sorry about the length of this message) I wanted to run my choice of lights by you and get your opinion. My goal is to have the higher end of the recommended 3-5 watts per gallon in order to keep my options open for the future when I inevitably will want to get into the more delicate corals. The retrofit setup which I found for only $195.00 is as follows: -Four 55 watt Panasonic bulbs (24") - 2 x 10,000k full spectrum & 2 x Actinic 03. I have a choice of any 4 bulbs from 10,000K / 8,800K / 6,700K / Act 03 / or 50/50 but settled on the aforementioned as the best scenario. Do you agree? <depends on what you want to keep.> It comes with commercial grade premium ballasts with instant / soft start 2 remote ballasts which can be independently controlled and a polished aluminum mirror reflector. Do you think this will be a decent choice of lighting and is this as good a value as I think? <sounds good to me, but always shop around. Check out some of the message boards for others opinions. http://wetwebfotos.com/talk/ http://reefcentral.com> Thank you very much for this wonderful website, and your patience in dealing with the many questions I'm sure you are bombarded with every day. I eagerly await your reply. <Sounds like you have a good plan, check out Anthony's article on lighting, its good stuff. Best Regards, Gage http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm Best regards, Jesse Canizio FOWLR I have a 280 gallon FOWLR tank (72x30x30). I'm looking to upgrade my lighting from normal fluorescents to maybe (2) 175 watt Metal Halides or (4) 96 watt Power Compacts from AH Supply or (3) 160 watt VHO lamps driven by an Ice Cap Ballast. I'm having a hard time trying to see what would be my best bang for the buck. The fluorescents are not doing the job compared to my old setup that had (2) 160 watt VHO bulbs on it that I no longer have. <175 watt MH's won't cover your 72" as well as the PC's or VHO. Other than that, it's a matter of taste. If you intend to make future changes the VHO would be the most adaptable (you can drive pc lamps with the IceCap)> Another thing is a question about circulation. I wanted to use my Ampmaster 3000 in a closed loop situation and use an old Mak 4 pump to feed the sump. Will this be okay? Right now there is no way that I can get rid of all of the bubbles that the Dolphin Pump is making because of its flow rate (2700 gph). I'm currently using a Turbo-flotor in the sump but seriously considering getting a Aqua-C 240 because the turbo-flotor isn't pulling out much of nothing in my opinion. <Engineer it backward....up to ten times turnover. So the dolphin is right....I'm not up on the flow rate of the Mak 4 but I would make sure all possible air leaks are totally resolved before blaming flow rate. I doubt it's the pump flow rate, more likely sucking minute amounts of air from fittings. Resolve these. The skimmer upgrade is a great idea. Craig> FOWLR Questions Good day, Let me introduce myself, Frank from Malaysia I would like to setup a FOWLR tank. <Greetings, Frank, nice of you to stop by! Scott F. here with you.> I will maintain my temperature with fans as in my country the water temperature should be 30 Celsius. I think with fan at least I can maintain 28-29 Celsius, since this is not a reef tank. <Keep the water well-oxygenated and the temperature as stable as possible> I have a 5' X 2' X 2' tank with no overflow sump but a top filter with the length of 5 ' X 7" X 6", The top filter I will only place skimmer. The tank with LR only. Not sure whether plan to put fine coral sand or not? >I would use fine coral sand (instead of more coarse materials which can trap detritus and debris), kept either 1/2" or less, or 3 inches or more. The reason is that less than 3 inches does not usually allow natural nitrification processes to occur in the sandbed. The 1/2" depth would be a nice cover to keep from having to look at a bare bottom, but won't be a detritus trap> Any advise on this. Is UV needed as I don't plan to have one. For the lighting is I plan to use arcadia ( 4 feet 2 white lamps and 2 actinic lamp) <U/V is very helpful if employed at the correct wattage, and if water flow through the unit is slow enough to create a good "kill rate". Do consult manufacturers/retailers for sizing and wattage if you are going to purchase a U/V unit. However, many successful FOWLR tanks are kept without any U/V units.> I plan to have a dwarf angel (e.g. - coral beauty, flame) and full size angel (Koran, Emperor, queen, majestic) and butterfly . I would like to know if it is possible to setup such a tank any how many fish is the limit and do this type of fish get along. <Well, I would advise against keeping more than one angelfish in this size aquarium. It's always a risk to put two angelfish in an aquarium, even if they each belong to a different genus. Angelfish, particularly the large ones, generally are at the top of the hierarchy within a captive system, and one may definitely harass the other. I have seen people mix Centropyge angels and full-size Pomacanthus angels together in large tanks with success, but it really is not the smartest move, IMO> Can I put cleaner shrimp or coral banded? <Either would be fine. The cleaner shrimp might provide a more beneficial service to your fishes as a "biological cleaner", creating a first line of defense against parasitic infections> For food advice, what type of food do you use for those angel.....I plan on Nori, fish pellet, Mysis shrimp, is such food enough to grow and maintain the color. <All of the above foods are accepted by most angelfish. The key is variety and quantity. You should provide a variety of both meaty and vegetable foods, and encourage the growth of some green algae in your tank to provide a natural dietary supplement, particularly if you are going to keep a dwarf angelfish> I heard that lack of food nutrient will cause color fade of fish. <Among other problems, that is correct> I hope this is not too much question.......need help. Thank you for your incoming advice. <Not too many questions at all. Please feel free to contact us again if we can be of further assistance! And, do make use of the fine resources on the WetWebMedia.Com web site. Good luck!> FOWLR: to bubble or not to bubble Gentlemen (no gentle ladies yet, right?): <Oh no, there are some Gentlewomen around here somewhere! Not this time though!> I have asked this question before, but I was not specific about my setup. I have a Power Sweep at one end of my 55gal FOWLR. Is it better for it to create tons of bubbles in the tank (venturi-style), move water with no bubbles near the surface or move water from deeper down? <Better to move the water at the surface with no bubbles.> I have no problem with the millions of bubbles or the noise, but only if it is beneficial. <Could be harmful> I do not have a skimmer yet for my 6-week old system. I remember reading somebody saying that would make a difference (as far as the need for bubbles). Is that true or did I misread? I have read the FAQ's and they were helpful (as usual); I just need something a little more dead-on. Thanks, Rich <Get that skimmer ASAP Rich, it will help aerate and clean-up your water. Micro bubbles can be problematic for some fish. Craig> Lighting for FOWLR Anthony, On lighting for a FOWLR can PC and VHO lighting be used together? <certainly... very attractive color/rendition. If the tank is less than 24" deep it may be more light than you need though. No harm for most fishes though. Aesthetically attractive for sure> Thanks, Mark <kindly, Anthony> FO with how much LR? Hey guys <Hello> I have just discovered your site its great <I'm pretty hooked on it as well, welcome to the party>. I have a 65g reef tank and rely on the120lb of l/r and skimmer for filtration and is working fine, my question is I'm setting up a 120g f/o tank and don't want all of the l/r in the tank so is a w/d a good choice <kind of> or how much l/r would I need <the more the merrier> in the sump for proper filtration? What sort of light should I use if I were making a refugium/sump? Thanks a bunch. Josh <The possibilities here are pretty much limitless. If it were me, I would have a sump filled with live rock lit by some power compacts, and possibly a refugium. I would read over the information we have on sumps and refugiums and decide what will work best in your situation. http://WetWebMedia.Com/marine/setup/filtration/marineFiltr.htm http://WetWebMedia.Com/sumprffiltfaqs.htm http://WetWebMedia.Com/refugium.htm Good luck my friend and please let us know if anything else comes up. Best Regards, Gage> Lighting Wattage For FOWLR Happy (???) Last Day Of Summer :( <Ah, tempus fugit, indeed> As I am about to switch my FO to a FOWLR, I am noodling around with how to upgrade my lighting. I would like to maintain coralline and grow a few inverts in my tank to make it look more natural, but yet keep the emphasis on the predators I own. Hence I am not desiring 7 watts/g to grow the most light hungry corals, but something more moderate in intensity. Note that I will have two morays in this tank, and I don't want to freak them out by making the tank too bright -- though I will have caves and overhangs for them. I am currently at 1 watt/g. What do you recommend for wattage for a 180g with these parameters, and are power compacts the way to go or will a number of simple NO tubes do??? <Maybe doubling to two watts per gallon of full spectrum fluorescent (either CFs or added fluorescents of whatever output fits) will do, be best (life is a series of compromises... in general) will serve to boost the photosynthetic aspects/life of your LR and accommodate your muraenids. Bob Fenner> Thanks gentlemen! Steve Converting to FOWLR Hi Bob. I currently have a 110 FO tank with crushed coral as a substrate and a magnum canister filter with BioWheel for filtration. I would like to switch to a sump, skimmer, live rock/sand setup. My question is what can I do with the coral currently in my tank? Can I use some or all of it under the sand I add or do you recommend removing all of it from the tank before adding sand? <I would remove/replace it all with sand.> Thank you in advance for you input. Also I picked your book up the other day and have to say I find it very informative and entertaining. Have you written any other books? <Currently, Bob also has released "A Fishwatcher's Guide to the Saltwater Aquarium Fishes of the World" and watch for Anthony, Bob, and I releasing a new work tentatively titled "The Natural Marine Aquarium Series: Reef Invertebrates." This is to be followed by Reef Fishes and Reef Corals. -Steven Pro> Re: Fish only to fish/reef Jason, <<Greets... > Thanks again! One quick follow up ...... If everything I read during my search for vita-Lite bulbs is true, the company that created and makes these bulbs is closing down <<I would make that 'has closed', sadly>> (which would explain the vita-Lite replacement bulbs I keep seeing) and the most comparable bulbs I have seen are para-lite bulbs at http://www.fullspectrumsolutions.com/CompareLights.htm . This website is one of the few bulb selling sites that I have seen with lumens output listed in their bulb information. It is very hard to do a serious on line bulb comparison with very little information given about various other bulbs output in lumens. Maybe the lack of info is all the info I need.<<Perhaps... time will tell.>> Rich <<Cheers, J -- >> Re: Fish only to fish/reef Jason, The more I travel around your website the better. I've learned a lot today. The links you advised were seriously informative. <<Ahh good, glad to hear it, although I can't bask in all that credit, WetWebMedia is the result of work from many people, most prominently, Robert Fenner>> Thanks! I will never look at ANY light fixture the same way again and I followed up on the vita-Lite bulbs mentioned on one page and they are definitely a lot more for less. I also found some impressive looking ballasts while looking at the vita-Lite info and I will follow up on them too. I definitely see your point with the Angelfish and coral. It's so hard to have everything in life! In one tank anyway. <<Well, that and a Rolling Stones tune comes to mind.>> I have a few other quick questions if you don't mind and I'll stop bothering you (for a while). I have read a lot about substrate options. I notice that in the last few years, as I have just enough crushed coral to cover the bottom glass in front of the live rock structures and bare glass on the unseen bottom behind the rock, I never encounter fish diseases and I was wondering if the minimal substrate is relevant to that. <<Uncertain, but my guess would be, no - no effect.>> When I upgrade the tank, I was thinking of using a deep sand bed and was wondering if that would relate to any disease issues. <<no.>> With the sand bed, I was interested in getting a small army of Scarlet reef and Blue leg Hermit crabs, some Emerald crabs and bumble bee and Cerith snails. Are any of these guys on the menu for large Angelfish and Tangs (possibly fairy wrasses too)? <<All safe from angels and tangs.>> Is there compatibility here? How big to these bottom cleaners get? <<Not much larger than they are already.>> Do they require additional shells to move into as they grow? <<That or they'll take one by force, and sometimes even with spares around, this will still happen.>> One last question please .... For a few years, I have had tiny little shrimp like creatures in the rock and crushed coral. They are dark in color and don't grow beyond 1/4 inch and always seemed more friend than foe eating up what ever settles on the bottom. They prefer to stay out of sight, but occasionally go for a mid tank swim right past the fish and are very rarely eaten. Can you tell me what they are and if they belong on the guest list? <<These are likely amphipods and/or copepods which could just as easily be called "sea bugs" These are most definitely desirable and are a sign of a well-cycled system. Many fish make a meal out of these, even though you might not have the opportunity to see it.>> Thanks, Rich <<You are welcome. Cheers, J -- >> Re: Fish only to fish/reef Bob, <<Uhh... I'm not Bob, but I play one on TV. JasonC here at your service.>> Thanks for the info. I was aware of the VHO, HO and compact bulbs. I was just amazed at the price difference on standard output ballasts from Home Depot/Loews etc. and the local Fish Stores. A 40 watt standard output ballast at a hardware store costs around 15 bucks and a 40 watt standard output ballast from a local fish store or internet aquarium supply company costs around 160 bucks. Quite the difference! <<That really doesn't sound right. The only $160 ballasts I've seen anywhere are electronic-style for VHO fluorescent. Some of these are also dimmable.>> My best bet would probably be to contact an aquarium light ballast vendor and ask what makes their product worth so much more. Whenever possible, I prefer the Do It Yourself system. It saves a lot of money that can be used for tank inhabitants and I enjoy the projects. Lighting is not very complicated, but I wouldn't advise everyone to run out and start doing electrical wiring for their water filled containers if they are uncomfortable with do it yourself projects. It's not really a good place to start. I was also aware of the Angelfish having a taste for some corals, but my hope was to use parts of the aquarium and creative rock placement to place a few corals in places unreachable to the large Angelfish. <<That's not really practical in the long term.>> I am putting in a great deal of thought (maybe too much) before I have an empty tank and the temptation to stock it with attractive creatures without advanced information on their needs. I don't shop blindly now, but it is better to be as prepared and knowledgeable as possible in advance and you seem to be a serious source of information. This is a great place to learn. I have recently read 3 different posts on various aquarium website message boards (with photos) of medium sized adult Regal, Asfur and Emperor angels doing well in small reef tanks with no aggressive snacking from the fish or corals. <<And you also know then that a photo and a web page are only snapshots in time. You should also try and contact some of these hobbyists and make sure they are having continued success. If they tell you the Regal Angel has been there a week or even a month, that's not really a measure of success. I can tell you from my own personal experience, I have seen Regal Angels in the wild, and they constantly nip at Xenia and other corals - constantly.>> Of course, other peoples experiences and situations don't guarantee the same success for everyone, so the people with greater overall knowledge and experience and constant contact with numerous aquarium people carry opinions of greater substance, which is why I decided to read and learn as much as possible from the wet web media website. I'll check out the links you advised and look into that book as well. Thanks for your help. Rich <<Yes, please read those links and beyond. Cheers, J -- >> Remote Equipment Room Planning Hi everyone-I am hoping you can clear my head a bit (again). I am setting up a 125gal AGA with 2 overflows. Fish and 120lbs live rock. I have read of something people call Home Depot sand. It is the Southdown brand sand that is not silica based. And cost is 10x less. I was planning on 3-4 inches of that in the tank. Are you familiar with it? <Yes> Would it be too fine? <No> There will be a 20 gallon tank as a sump (heater, skimmer, pump, water top off and mechanical filtration, when needed) and a 20 gallon tank as a refugium (4 inches of sand and some sort of Caulerpa that my tangs would enjoy). I was planning on four 1 1/2" bulkheads (2 in and 2 out) in the sump and two 1 1/2" bulkhead (1 in and 1 out) in the refugium. Is that adequate or overkill? <Slight overkill, but if you have access to the drill, no reason to not use the larger diameter holes.> I also purchased a Berlin Turbo skimmer and a Mag 12 for moving everything. I am upgrading from a 55 that the Tangs are outgrowing after 4 years. I am planning on putting the equipment in a closet in another room via plumbing under the floor. Would it be best if I had the tank, sump, and refugium all at the same height? <No, you have to use gravity to drain from one to the next and pump back up. Far easier to do at various heights.> I was thinking that the water level would not rise or fall in the sump or refugium when power goes out if I set it up this way. Is this correct? <You still have water moving from one to the other and would still have to account for back siphoning and such.> The PVC pipes from the sump and refugium would drop five feet (thru the closet floor), go over 10 feet (under the floor) and back up five feet behind the tank) in the other room. I am thinking that this does not constitute "head pressure" and that the pump should operate at its 0 head pressure capacity (1200 gph). Is this correct? <No, you still have basically friction to deal with.> If so, is one Mag-12 enough circulation? <Depends on fish wanted.> I bought two Mag-12 pumps because I was originally planning on having equipment under tank and flow would have dropped with the 5ft head. Now I am thinking I have an extra pump (if my assumption is correct about 0 head pressure when all is on same level). If I used both of the pumps, would it be too much circulation? <No> And could all of that flow go thru the sump, with a little bit diverted to the refugium? <Sure> Your book, TCMA, showed up with my live rock from FFE. It is a great read! You have saved my bacon (and fish) in the past. Thank you in advance! Have a happy/safe holiday Den <And you too. -Steven Pro> Upgrading from 46 gallon to ? III So a sump with ~50 pounds of LR + Skimmer and flow-pump is enough filtration? <Yes, this will run similar to a reef tank. It is often referred to as FOWLR, which stands for Fish-Only With Live Rock.> Do you have any pictures of this setup - I couldn't find detail on the filter portion of your site... <Envision a reef tank without the corals and super intense lighting.> It is amazing how all the ad's out there brain wash into all these funky devices. ~Bill <Yes, especially when the simple, natural way works well. -Steven Pro> Lighting for a 55 Greetings, A great website! I have a quick question, can't seem to find exact answer on web. I have a 55 gallon FOWLR system. I have approx. 20 pounds of live rock and plan on adding a few pounds at a time until I get about 50 lbs or so. System has been up and running for about 4 months and doing quite well. I have an Emperor 400 and a remora skimmer running. Ammonia =0, nitrites=0 (have been that way for over 3 months). Nitrites vary from 20ppm 40 ppm, hoping skimmer will help out there, along with additional live rock. The LFS sold me a piece of LR with some mushrooms on it. He said that they are hardy and should be ok with my system. My question concerns the lighting. Having started out wanting fish only, after seeing the beauty of the mushrooms, I would love to be able to keep these beauties as well as fish. I have only the two lights than came w/ aquarium and I have changed to 1-50/50 and 1-Triton ( 15 watts each). I know this would be fine for a FO system, but with LR and some mushrooms, is this enough? <No> I cringe when I see how much upgrades cost! What can I do without breaking me up? <I have a 55 and I use four 40 watt N.O. fluorescents. This is plenty of light for mushrooms and various LPS's and a few low light SPS's.> Will the LR be ok with this lighting. <Your coralline will not grow very much.> Aquarium is 48" long by 12 5/8" wide by 20 7/8" deep. Could I buy an extra 24" hood and add in front of existing hood? <You are going to be better off using four foot lamps. Four foot lamps cost about the same as two footers and you will need less of them. Also, look into compact fluorescent lighting.> Any suggestions or sites to visit to find a solution would be appreciated. <Check out the various e-tailers on the WWM links page as well as AHSupply.com> Again thanks for a great site, Keith Caudill <You are welcome. -Steven Pro> Bare Bones or eclipse Bob/Anthony/Steven, <You caught Steven today> I have been reading everything I can get my hands on, as well as scouring countless websites to gather information before I begin this complicated hobby. I have narrowed it down to either buying a 37 gal. eclipse or a 55 gal. tank (both will be FOWLR) to which I will add all necessary items. <Bigger is always better> If I go the 55 gal. route what items (protein skimmer, wet/dry, etc.), are a must? <The number one must have item is Bob's book "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist". Please buy and read cover to cover. There is no better investment of your time and money. After that a high quality skimmer would be my next choice. You can probably go without the wet/dry with enough liverock and circulation supplied by powerheads.> I will load it full of quality LR and top notch LS, provide plenty of circulation, and do water changes religiously. I have noticed that many people are skimmerless/filterless and it seems more are making the change everyday. <I think most of the people who want to go skimmerless are cheap and/or never used a good performing skimmer. Once you have seen the disgusting crud that is removed from a good skimmer, you will never want to go without.> I am trying start things without having to take out a loan. <A lot of people use and like a CPR Bak-Pak for a 55. I like these units, too. The only drawback is when you get a bigger tank. Most people in this hobby do one of three things; buy a larger tank, buy a second tank, or get rid of all their tanks. Lets hope you are in one of the first two groups. If this is the case, you may be better off buying a separate larger protein skimmer good for up to 100 gallons.> If I simply have to have mechanical filtration are there cheaper alternatives or brands? <Not absolutely needed> What type of Bio load can I put in a tank with no mech. filter? <You bio-load is determined by your biological filtration capacity.> Will a Fluval do the job in place of the above mentioned? <A nice unit, but would be lower on my priority list.> Should I give up my dream of a "natural" 55 gal. and go with the Eclipse? <There is nothing natural about an aquarium. Some merely appear more natural than others.> Any help would be greatly appreciated. Chris Re: Filtration for new 55 gal FOWLR Thanks for the timely response. Two quick follow-up questions. What type of micro-algae would you recommend in the sump? <Not micro, macro... as in you can see it with the naked eye. This information is posted on www.WetWebMedia.com> Also, I am thinking of purchasing a Jalli 220 Watt Power Compact unit consisting of 2-55Watt 7100K daylight bulbs and 2-55 Watt Actinic bulbs. I believe this should be sufficient to maintain a few soft corals. Would you agree and do you know if this is a "good grade" lighting unit? <Not familiar with the make, brand... would check with the hobby chatforums. Ours: http://talk.wetwebfotos.com/> Thanks again for you assistance. <Be chatting. Bob Fenner> FO to FOWLR Conversion question I have a 120 that I am slowly converting from a wet/dry setup to a live rock setup. I've put in about 60 lbs of live rock at this point. How much rock is necessary ? <Please read here: http://www.WetWebMedia.com/lrfaqs.htm> When in this process do I start removing the bioballs in the sump of the wet-dry ? Do I remove them in steps ? (50% now, 50% later) <Better to do the latter. Please read here: http://www.WetWebMedia.com/wetdryfaqs.htm> In addition I have a raccoon butterfly in the tank. What sort of inverts can I put in the tank with this guy swimming around ? <Please read about this B/F, the marine invertebrates by perusing our principal site. www.WetWebMedia.com Bob Fenner> Thanks ! Fish/invertebrate tank Hi, I have never kept a marine fish/invertebrate tank before, even though I have had fish only fresh cold water, fish only tropical freshwater and fish only marine tanks. I have also kept a small invertebrate only tank but have never mixed fish and invertebrates. I have done some research and have a plan as to which fish and invertebrates I wish to keep and would like you to tell me whether it is suitable or not, if not which fish/invertebrates would be, which filter to use, and how much the setup and fish would cost. <Okay> The tank will be 72inx24inx24in (180cmx60cmx60cm) - 149.52 gals (648 litres) 3x Heteractis Malu - Malu Anemone 4x Lysmata Amboinensis - Cleaner Shrimp 1x Pseudoclolochinis axiologus - Sea Apple <I would omit any large sea cucumber. Please read: http://WetWebMedia.Com/seacukes.htm http://WetWebMedia.Com/seacukes1.htm> 1x Fromia Monilis - Orange Starfish 1x Dascyllus Trimaculatus - Domino Damsel <There are better choices of Damsels... this species can be "a handful"... I would choose another species. Please see our site re your choices: www.WetWebMedia.com> 1x Gramma Loreto - Royal Gramma 1x Centropyge bispinosus - Coral Beauty 4x Anthias Squamipinnis - Wretchfish <One male only> 3x Amphiprion Ocellaris - Common Clownfish Also, I have never kept a sea apple before. I have heard it is difficult to keep due to it's eating habits. Would feeding it when I got up, releasing live food (which one?) when I left for work, feeding it when I got home, and then before I went to bed suffice? And could I keep more than the one starfish together? Different species? <Stars of aquarium use are easily mixed... again, I would only place small species of sea cucumbers. Be chatting my friend. Bob Fenner> Thank You Alison Tank without a Sump tank. Hello Mr. Fenner. My name is Alan, we have e-mailed before, the last time was about a week or so ago, to let you know that I have just got your book CMA and I think it is great, anyway what I would like to ask you is I want to set up a tank for fish/reef one day but I would like to go fish/inverts first to get the feel for it <A good plan> ,I have read a lot of book's and mag's+b.board's. <All good sources of information, opinions to mull over> if I tell you what I would like to do Would you please tell me if I am going wrong! First my Tank Size. I am going to have it around 48x24x24 or 48x20x24wide. not sure what one yet! I would like to run it with out a Sump tank, don't get me wrong I know that would be the best way to go, but I don't like the sound that the overflow makes. <These can be quieted down in a number of ways...> I am looking at a large external/can for the use of (carbon and floss), witch <which> I will clean out each week so that I do not get any Biological build up, as I want to use Live rock and live sand. and I want that for the biological side of things, I will have inside Powerheads to move the water around so that I do not get any dead spots, 2 150w heaters, lights, don't know what one's yet! Well Mr. Fenner , that is all for know please let Me know what you think ,Can I do it this way? <Sure> DSB? will it work? <Likely so, yes> Thank you and all the best from England Alan. <Be chatting my ambitious friend. Bob Fenner> Switching to a larger reef tank question Hi Bob. I wrote to you about a year and a half ago concerning a Blue-faced Angel that I acquired. Just to update, he/she's doing great and thriving in my 135 FOWLR. About 4.5" and what an appetite. Anyway, I recently had a custom 300 gal built. It's set up with a powerful Bullet 3 skimmer, 80 gal w/d sump, VHO lighting (880 watts), turning over 3000 gal p/hr via Dolphin 1/3HP pump. It rocks. I added a 3 to 4" aragonite SB, and 180 lbs. of newly purchased Fiji. <Sounds very nice indeed> It just recently finished cycling with the new rock. Now, the big question is how to make the switch with the fish, inverts, 130 lbs of LR that's in the 135 tank. The new tank is in another room, and I have all the time I need to make the switch. I'm concerned with stress for the fish on a newly set up tank and moving them. Also, I will add more livestock to the new tank, so that is a concern since the Angel is the boss right now. I'm looking into a school of green Chromis (9-12), White-faced tang, Kole tang, Fairy wrasse, and maybe a pair of masked butterflies so far. Right now I have The Blue-face, Red Sea purple tang, 6-line wrasse, purple Firefish, flame angel, coral beauty angel, and a Raccoon Bfly. <Moving all at once should be fine... but do make a couple of water changes with moving the "old tank" water to the new tank (for conditioning as well as "acclimating" the new livestock to the old...> Once everything is out of the old system, it will be broken down. I'm trying to match the tank parameters exactly; pH, temp, SG. How should I go about this move to the larger system? Thank you. Thomas P. <This really is about all there is to "it"... if your livestock's in good condition (which it sounds like), there should be little "getting used to" problems. Bob Fenner> FOWLR vs. Reef setups Hi Bob, How are you? Your website is
looking better and better! <Fine and thanks... yes, the process
continues... unabated> I have had a 60G reef for nearly a year now
and am thinking of setting up a 120G FOWLR tank for the lovely (and
EXPENSIVE) Chaetodon Semilarvatus Butterflies. I am wondering if you
could share your experience with running FOWLR in terms of how well the
livestock stay up when compared to a reef, efforts with maintenance,
costs, assuming good skimming, filtration and water movement; it
appears livestock usually do really well in reef, not so well in dead
coral setups, but how about FOWLR? <This is a great species, and
FOWLR systems are better, easier to take care of than no LR or
Reefs...> Ideally I am planning to get 3 Chaetodon Semilarvatus, 1
Asfur Angel and 1 Flame Angel. Would this be an good setup without an
algae eating Tang? Also would the inhabitants bother hard corals like
Sun Polyps? <Hmm, well this tank is going to be too small... sooner
rather than later... The B/F's get plate size, the Asfur a chunky
foot and a half... You'll need a three hundred gallon before
you're through. Very hardy corals should be fine> Finally for a
FOWLR tank, what is your experience with setting up without any
substrate? My current 60G (acrylic) is all scratched up since the sand
always gets in the way when I try to clean the view glasses, any
suggestions to avoid/reduce scratching would be greatly appreciated.
<I understand, but still like the looks of having a substrate...>
Thanks again ;) Brian <Bob Fenner> I love your book, I have a few questions about marine set-up! Hello Bob, I recently purchased your text The Conscientious Marine Aquarist to help me in my attempt to set up my first Marine Aquarium. I have read about 30-40% of the text thus far, and have found it to be the best reference yet. <Thank you. Or should I write, "Of course"!> I am determined to do as much reading as I can before making any purchases; however, in some ways the more I read I am becoming more perplexed by two major questions. One, What is the best type of mechanical filtration ( canister, wet-dry, etc.) to use to accomplish my specific goal. Two, How many fish can my system hold practically. I am getting a range of opinions on that question from 5 to 49 (an article by Mike Patella, detailing an Eco System tank he has set up. <There are "many roads" that work, and many adherents to each ramp and byway... Different approaches to filtration will do... and of course, under-stocking is the rule...> I would like to set up a 90 Gallon tank with life rock as a biological filter, and would like to house a small amount of photosynthetic invertebrates (possibly, one or two corals, a couple sponges, a clam, a couple feather dusters and a anemone), but I am intent keeping as many fish as I can maintain in a healthy environment free of large quantities of microalgae. I would like to have the following fish in my system: 2-Tangs, 2-Angels, 2-Clowns, 2-Butterflies, 2-4 Damsels,1-Longnose Hawkfish,1-Small Lyon. <Dwarf Angels I take it...> Could you recommend a specific tank set up ( mechanical filtration, protein skimmer, powerheads, lighting, UV)? <Will have to refer you to the (remember, you said above you intended to study ahead of buying... my website www.WetWebMedia.com for more FAQ's then may seem prudent to reply to... only joking here... but a ever-widening range of input re these "set-up" issues> Is my bio-load realistic? <It's a bit high, but not terrible... You'll need bright lighting in the shape, size system you're doing for the Clam, anemone... but all should work out...> What are your thoughts on systems such as The Ecosystem or Algae scrubber systems? <They're okay... most algae scrubbing systems are more trouble than they're worth, and their ads stink... but if you're willing to change water, use a bunch of activated carbon periodically to reduce their toxic side effects and water-yellowing tendencies... these can work out... I would hold off on buying such "technology" for now... and focus on the live rock, skimming as filtration as you're tending... If/when you want to venture into store-bought algae scrubbing products you will know> Also could you recommend any other text you have written. Thank you very much for taking the time to read and respond to my e-mail. <Hmm, only have "The Fishwatcher's Guide to Tropical Marine Aquarium Fishes..." otherwise in print (available through the website or Amazon.com... A bunch more on the way... but all take time, $, expertise/help I can't as yet spur along> Adam Simon Commercial Real Estate Broker and soon to be Marine Aquarist Cincinnati, Ohio <Bob Fenner, one of every nine adult Californians with a RE resale license!> questions re: FO tank upgrade thanks in advance for answering these questions...really appreciate you taking the time to do this for so many people. <Part of my daily penance...> First, love the Conscientious Aquarist. Used it the learn from and to manage my fish only tank. I have a 55 gal tank (standard fish store setup typical glass tank with wood grain frame and hood). Lighting provided by 2 24" fluorescent tubes. Filtration provided by a wet/dry. Water supply is from the tap. After about 15 months of ownership, I am now interested in upgrading the marine environment. I have a series of questions regarding a successful systematic process to upgrading the tank equipment and setup to include live rock, invertebrates, and one day have a full blown reef setup. Can I do it all in the existing tank while maintaining the fish I currently have? <Very possibly... only some types that get too big, rambunctious, likely to munch of invertebrates, that can't make the transition.> Could you provide a step by step approach to adding new equipment (skimmer, lights, anything else), adding live rock, improving/maintaining water quality, adding invertebrates/corals? <Hmm, good question... Don't know that I actually can, or that there is such a "tools, materials, steps to completion" sort of plan... I would change out the mechanicals ahead of the live rock and non-vertebrate additions... Sort of in the order you list... and maybe suggest removing your plastic bio-media from the wet-dry...> Can't seem to find much info on changing an existing tank setup, except that from the fish stores. I have learned to be cautious with their advice. Again thanks for help. Don >> <Hmm, let's proceed "in smaller bites" if you will. Maybe some smaller chomps of questions/discussion of particulars that you're interested in. Have you given a cursory read of the materials stored on our site? Home Page . Our "conversations" are soon to be part of it. Bob Fenner> A Semi Reef Setup > After reading your book, I was all set to establish a fish and > invertebrate > system. > My LFS argues that I will be very disappointed, once I introduce > invertebrates into the tank. > Warning me that in all probability, the fish will develop a disease and > there > will be no way to treat them, without killing the invertebrates. > Can you please explain the proper way to do this. > Thanks. Hmm, of all things... thought/think this is the reason folks avail themselves of "full-length" "explanations" like books... rather than "hasty" responses afforded by these sorts of forums... Well, I disagree with the apparent point of view of the person(s) who told you the above. Though it is/would be better to start off/practice with a fish only (FO) system... there is little chance of introducing diseases through the use of non-fish livestock... or diseases (parasitic, infectious) through the application of proper selection, dip/bath and quarantine procedure... Keep reading and discussing such issues till you feel comfortable with how to proceed. For me, I'd try the route of FO then in a few months, introducing a few hardy invertebrates... Bob Fenner Fish Only w/ Live Rock Question Hi- I have a 55 gallon fish only tank and I was wondering if it would be possible to add live rock to the system. My tank houses a trigger and a wrasse, would these kill off the rock? What kind of lighting would I need to sustain the LR, and how much should I get? Thanks, - Dillon >> Yes to getting the live rock... the more the merrier, but ten, twenty or more pounds would be great. The Trigger and Wrasse will have a good time eating and rearranging the rock... but this is a "good thing"... and some, most of the life on it will be sustained with simple full spectrum fluorescent lighting... What sort of lamp(s) do you use? Bob Fenner, who thanks you for writing.
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