FOSetUpFAQs

FAQs about Fish-Only Marine Systems 1

You can still have good-looking decor in FO systems. Here are some gorgeous Coral replicas by Pacific Aqua Farms.


Small Marine Aquariums Book 1: Invertebrates, Algae New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner	Small Marine Aquariums Book 2: Fishes New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner	Small Marine Aquariums Book 3: Systems New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner

Re: Marine Fish only & sandbeds Anthony, Just a quick thanks. That cleared up a lot of questions. <very welcome> The fiberglass casting for rock sounds very interesting. I've seen it used in public aquariums in walking areas, but didn't realize it could be used inside the tanks. I would have expected it to fade or release small fibers or particles. <many colorfast dyes and colored epoxies to detail/seal/color the product nowadays> I will search the net for more info on this method. If you know any resources for learning this method, please send it to me. If not, don't worry about it and thanks. <I'll have to ask around for current info on techniques. I know that some artists are using mask making F/X methods to add flexible and moving features to the structures!!! Very cool and realistic> Seriously! You guys have been a huge help. My fish are almost smiling from the recent improvements in living conditions the Wet Web Media education system has brought them. Rich <it is a pleasure to hear it my friend. Best of luck and long life. Anthony>

Lighting for Fishes 1. Is it ok if I dechlorinated my salt water after I added premixed salt? I just started tank yesterday, no fish 46 gal bow front. <not a big deal... but not a good habit either> 2. Also what kind of lighting do I need if I just want to put fish? <most aquarists favor a warm colored light for viewing or photographing fishes. A Chroma 50 or Chroma 75 is nice. Really, and warm (red/pink) colored daylight will be fine. Perfectolux, Gro-lux, etc are some popular choices. They make fish look great but don't impede algae growth unfortunately> Thanks, Nattalie <best regards, Anthony>

Unknown Parasite in FO Tank Hi there, <<And hello to you... >> I'm relatively new to this hobby and I believe I'm encountering my first problem with parasites. The tank is completely cycled (used 3 damsels and all survived) and all tests are zero (nitrates are 5). <<as a quick aside, and trying very hard to not sound lecturing... you should avoid the trend to say "All tests were zero." They weren't by your own admission.>> I traded in the damsels and started off with a Coral Beauty and a very small six line wrasse. I was very pleased to see the angel cleaning up the algae, which at this point only consists of diatoms! <<You might consider procuring some algae-encrusted live rock to supplement the diatoms... surely those will run out.>> After about six weeks I added a small bird wrasse. About a week later, the Coral Beauty started scratching on the rocks and began to develop a "dusty" coating. I immediately treated the tank (with Oomed by Tetra) because I thought it was probably velvet and I've heard that you have to act very quickly. Unfortunately, the Coral Beauty didn't survive the night after adding the meds. This surprised me because I thought I'd caught it soon enough......he was just as much of a piggy as usual right up to the day I added the medication. <<Yeah... that medication [Tetra Oomed] is raved about by some and shunned by others. It is quite possible the Coral Beauty was done in by the Oomed and not the Oodinium. And in any case, it is always better to remove sick fish to a separate quarantine system for treatment with such medications.>> All the other fish did survive though and appeared to be doing fine until yesterday. <<Well... this is the joy of parasitic infections... gone today, here tomorrow. They have continuing life cycles.>> The other fish have all started scratching and are now breathing heavy on and off. I'm sure there's something there but nothing is visible on any of the fish. All the fish are still eating and acting normally (except for the breathing and scratching). <<Some fish scratch as part of normal behavior. If they are damaging themselves by scratching, that for certain is not normal. How long has this heavy breathing and scratching been going on?>> I really thought after six weeks that if there was something there it would have shown itself...............Apparently not. <<Six weeks after what? The addition of the bird wrasse?>> What do you suggest I do at this point? Copper, garlic soaked food, etc.? Any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated. <<I'm not too hip on garlic as a curative in a situation like this. Likewise, copper and other harsh medications are best used in a separate tank or quarantine system. PH adjusted, freshwater dips would also be helpful, although quarantine will help you catch and then dip these fish on a regular schedule. You might also want to consider running the tank fallow [without any fish] for five or six weeks to bring the parasites back to a more manageable level. Here is some associated reading: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/quaranti.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/dips_baths.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/parasiti.htm >> Thanks in advance. Leah Meilleur <<You are welcome. Cheers, J -- >>

Re: Unknown Parasite in FO Tank Hi again, <<Hello again, hello... ok Neil Diamond I am not.>> OK, here goes......I'm going to ask for a lot of help here, so please bear with me. I've read the links (again) that you've suggested and I'd like to form a step by step plan of action. At the risk of sounding like a complete idiot, if you could clarify several items for me I'd be ever so grateful: <<Heh... methinks that idiots are the ones who don't ask any questions. ;-) >> 1. I have a spare 10 gallon tank I could use for treatment. However, I'm concerned that this won't be large enough for the bird wrasse (4")?!?! <<Yeah, that is a concern. A 20-long would probably be more suited to this cruiser.>> 2. When I'm filling up the 10, should I be using "new" water or tank water? If I use tank water am I not bringing more of the problem with me? <<there are pros and cons, but really more pros as the fish will already be acclimated to this water. The ease of transition is worth more than the few parasites that may transfer in the water, and surely more will make with move on/with the fish. Besides, if you use strong therapies to treat, all the parasites will be neutralized.>> Alternatively, if I use "new" water won't the fish be extremely stressed by the change? <<Ah-ha! I replied too soon. You got it.>> 3. The links I read over indicated several medications that could be used. Should I be using copper in the treatment tank or Methylene blue dips or both? <<depends on just how severe the problem is.>> I'm really confused here....Is the blue meant to be used only as a dip or as a long term treatment? <<The M-Blue is best used in the dip process.>> If I'm to use copper, should it be added before the fish and then the fish gradually acclimated to the coppered water? <<Just dose the copper as recommended on the bottle. No need to acclimate. Kind of like taking aspirin - if you want the pain to go away now, you need to take two now.>> By the way, I assume we're talking about COPPERSAFE here? That's the only copper treatment I've come across. <<That will work fine.>> Also, will the copper completely eliminate the parasite or is this likely to be an ongoing problem? <<Well, this is why quarantine is so useful. If you can treat the fish for a couple of weeks and then continue the quarantine the fish another two weeks, at the end the fish will be about as 'clean' as it could be. If you continue the copper at the recommended dose for the recommended period, you should eliminate the parasites from the fish and the quarantine tank.>> 4. How long should I leave the "treatment water" in the tank before beginning to remove the meds via water changes and carbon? <<For the duration of the treatment. Keep in mind that you won't have a working biological filter in this tank [the copper will nuke it] so you will need to do 25% water changes at the very least every other day. If the bottle says treat for 10 days, then check the fish after 10 days [like you weren't doing this every day] and if it is on the mend, feel free to stop the copper and begin the carbon.>> 5. You've mentioned allowing the main aquarium to "go fallow" for 6 weeks to bring the parasites back to a more manageable level. Does this mean that the parasites will still be alive (I thought they couldn't survive without a host)? <<Well, one can never be 100% sure without bleaching the system and starting all over again, which is not the way I'd like to see this go. You can be certain that the size of the parasite population will be greatly reduced. And otherwise healthy fish can often endure a parasite or two, no problem.>> And how are they to be "managed" and kept at low levels? <<Yes... this is a combination of factors. Biological cleaners are a great option if your fish won't eat them. A cleaner shrimp probably won't last around that bird wrasse, but a neon goby might. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/arthropoda/shrimp/cleaner.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/neongobies.htm >> It seems to me as soon as I put the fish back in, the whole cycle will start again? <<Not necessarily.>> Is there nothing that will permanently kill off the little "buggers"? <<Nothing that won't force you to start all over again - no fun.>> 6. To answer your question, the on-and-off rapid gilling has been going on for about 3 days now. What's really strange is that one day the fish appear "different" in that they are hiding, showing difficulty breathing, and may not eat as much as usual but the next day they completely "bounce back" to normal behaviour, with the exception of the scratching......that stays constant since it started a week ago. <<Hmmm... I've know you've been though it but you might also look carefully for other things going on in the tank - chasing, fighting, nipping, large temperature of pH swings, all these things can cause stress and once stressed, things usually only go downhill from there.>> I know this was terribly long-winded but I want to be sure I get this right the first time for the sake of the fish. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge with us "saltwater dummies". It seems I've spent half a lifetime reading and researching this but there's always something new to learn! <<no dummies here that I can see, only people who want to learn more, and that's a good thing, as Martha would say.>> Regards, Leah Meilleur <<Cheers, J -- >>

Fluidized Sand vs. Trickle Filter In the "planning stage" for a 200 gal. F/O saltwater system. Will have protein skimmer but requesting comments re: Fluidized sand bed instead of a typical wet/dry trickle filter. Thanks, Skipper30217 <My preference of the two would be for the W/D. Fluidized bed sand filters rob your tank's water of oxygen and can get very funky if you lose power. -Steven Pro>

Aquascaping in a Fish-Only Tank As usual you are doing a great job. <Thank you kindly.> I have a couple quick questions that I have searched the site for that I can't find addressed: I have a 72 gal fish only setup with one 4' 40watt 10,000k light, a 30 gal wet/dry, Berlin skimmer, UV light. My tank is stocked with a blue tang, yellow tang, Picasso trigger, porcupine puffer, and an emperor angel (all five fish are youngsters; I realize they will outgrow the tank). <Agreed, start looking into that 180 soon.> My questions: 1) I would like to change my crushed coral bed and bleached coral / lava rock aquascaping to a sand bed and live rock. Can I have live rock with predatory fish? <Sure> What about a sand bed with the messy feeding that takes place? My tank is reef ready (overflow) so all waste is skimmed off the top of the water; you can't vacuum sand I assume? <You should not need to if you feed properly and have a healthy population of critters to clean the sand.> 2) Do I change out all the bed and aquascaping at the same time or seed it with the crushed coral? 3) I currently have 40watts of light, should I add more lighting for (live) sand or the live rock? <For the rock, yes.> I own an unused 96watt power compact (two blue, two white) that I can throw on if needed? <Sounds good.> I appreciate you time in answering our questions on a daily basis. Thank you, Mark Hill <You are welcome. -Steven Pro>

Filtration I started my 29 gallon saltwater aquarium a few months ago. I have a modified SeaClone protein skimmer (which produces a lot of dark liquid) <glad to hear it...> and a millennium 3000 power filter along with a powerhead for circulation. I have about 10 lbs of live rock, along with 25 lbs of base rock, and a crushed coral substrate. For livestock, I currently have a small yellow tang and one damsel, which is all I plan to get. <very considerate and light for stocking> There is 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, nitrates are at 10. The question I have today concerns the filter. I wish to replace the millennium 3000 with a canister filter, specifically the magnum 350. Would this filter be overkill for such a small system? <really almost no such thing as too much filtration... sounds good to me> If so, should I go with the smaller magnum 220 or a different filter altogether? If I did use this, would there be sufficient biological filtration in my system or should I get a bio-wheel to supplement this? <nope... I wouldn't bother. Do go with your first choice of a larger canister and also consider Eheim units. Better biological capacity> I know that this isn't the best way to filter my system, <really very fine... not at all weak, rest assured> but due to the cost restrictions with being a college student, this is all I can currently afford. Thank you for answering my questions. Mike <fair enough... and with such a light fish load, do add and enjoy compatible invertebrates and fauna for/from live rock. Best regards, Anthony>

Fish Only To Reef Conversion Hello Bob, Steve or Anthony, <Steven this morning.> I hope you can help. I am interested in converting my fish only tank to a reef tank. I would like to keep some fish and soft corals for starters. The aquarium is a 55 Gal. tank. It has a corner wet/dry that houses some bio media. I have a 24" Amiracle counter current skimmer. Lighting is a 220 watt PC hood. The current live stock is a maroon clown and about 20 Nass. snails. There is about 1 1/2 inch of sand and about 30 lbs. of lava rock in the tank. All is great with the tank except for the occasional algae bloom. I would like to get some live rock and sand.( for now 50lbs. of live rock and add 2 inches of sand) Do I get rid of the lava rock and keep the sand that I currently have? Also, the bio media in the wet/dry is not accessible, it is housed in acrylic. I would like to remove the media because of the articles that I have read that they help in raising nitrate levels. Do I try to cut the top of the filter to take out the media? (I would prefer not to do this, I would be scared to crack the tank somehow). <Yes, agreed can be dangerous.> My main concern is not to harm the maroon clown. He is over six years old and he is the first fish my wife and I bought together. If you don't think I can do the conversion without hurting him I will not do the conversion. <No, I think you can do it. Get fully cured rock from your LFS, else cure the rock yourself in a separate vessel before placing in the main display.> Thank you in advance for your help and for having, in my opinion, one of the best web sites for aquaria care. A new friend, Dan <Glad to make your acquaintance. -Steven Pro>

Fish Only to Reef Conversion II WOW! I did not expect a response so fast! Thank you very much. <No problem. We try to do our best.> I will add to the sand bed and get rid of the existing rock. I will probably order the live rock from FFE. <Please cure/recur in a separate vessel. The rock is marketed as cured, but we have had people who have had problems adding it to existing tanks. Better to be safe than sorry. The curing vessel can be anything that will hold the rock and water; an extra tank, Rubbermaid tubs, etc. Just do not pack the rock too densely. You want good water flow around it. Perform a Google search of the site to find more info on curing rock.> Once again thanks for the fast response. It only goes to show how super a web site and staff it has. Sincerely, Dan <Thank you for saying so, Steven Pro>

Fish Only to Reef Conversion III I will look up the info on curing the rock before continuing. Thanks again for the advice. I'll keep you up to date if you don't mind. <Sure, do like to see how things turn out. -Steven Pro> Always appreciative, Dan

Saltwater fish only tank set-up Hi Robert Fenner <Hello there> I have been getting the run around on how to set up a saltwater fish only aquarium here in Alberta, Canada. From size of tank, equipment to use, lighting, type of fish, prices on the same equipment all over the board from store to store. Where to start in this hobby. I have a 140 gal freshwater tank for years now with great success. Time for a change in the hobby. Looking for your advice in where to begin from tank size ,equipment, pricing, etc.. <Much to relate. Do you have any book/reference materials already? You might do well to read one, two at this point, rather than try to "piece together" what you can on various topics/aspects... from incomplete sources. Please do read over our principal site re marine aquarium set-up, maybe starting here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marindind2.htm reading through the component pieces, FAQs if you have further questions, to the section on FO systems. Have a good time, Bob Fenner> Looking for help Thank-you from Alberta, Canada

Filtration Hi! I've read your book "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist" but would still like your personal preference on filtration systems for both "fish only" systems and "live rock" aquariums: Assuming the system has a protein skimmer and adequate water movement/aeration; would you recommend a wet/dry filter, or a canister filter? Thanks, Rich Aylward <Thank you for writing. My further, and more specific suggestions on marine filtration can be found on the web at www.WetWebMedia.com Bob Fenner>

Re: predator tank question Thanks very much for the fast reply...I have a few more questions I remembered after I had sent it out. I am agonizing over whether to make the 220 a reef or a predator tank, the more I read the more I want to do a big reef again. <A worthy task/adventure> BTW I'm amazed at the amount of information on your site. Incredible job. <Yes, much input from people who have "done the work"> 1) refugium...whatever I end up doing in the big tank I will have a big sump. In the sump I want to have a nicely sized refugium (Caulerpa, ideally amphipods, shrimp, etc living in it, ala. ecosystem). I will have a large skimmer, probably downdraft (big ETS most likely). Would the skimmer be better before or after the sump? <Before in your setting> I would assume after so that the refugium can get organic particulates for nutrient purposes. <I would arrange the flow to have only some of the water get pulled out, through the skimmer... the water removed from the main tank dump into an antechamber in the sump, where the skimmer pulls it out... and dumps it (after going through the skimmer) back into the latter, larger chamber of the sump... Placing the skimmer last before the tank will remove too much of benefit to the main tank> My current reef has an ETS reef devil in sump, so I have very little experiences with out of sump skimmers other than a 6' CC skimmer I had on my 72 reef 5-6 years ago. So...skimmer->sump->tank, or sump->skimmer->tank, or try to make the sump big enough to have an in sump skimmer? <Hope this is clear... tank to forward sump to skimmer to rear sump/refugium to tank> 2) Darn the more I think about it the more I want to make the big tank a reef now, not a predator tank, but my 60 cube isn't big enough to be a "predator" tank. Guess I could put a small lion and a small eel in it. I plan to move at least one more time in the next 5 years which is the only thing really dissuading me from doing the big tank as a reef. Moving a predator tank is about 9.76 times easier than moving a reef I would imagine. <Both need not be a giant problem> 3) 6' tank, I assume 3 halides? I have a dual Hamilton 175W system right now. <A good number, 3> I think I'd want to move to 250W, or would 400W be a better choice? <No more than 250 watt IMO... more wattage than this unnecessary and problematic here> CF for a tank that big? Reasonable? <Can be done... is this 220 have more than twenty inches of water depth? If near this, you'd probably be happier with the MH's...> I like the water shimmer from halides though. <Ah, there's our answer> 4) I guess I'd want a 2' tall tank as opposed to 30" for light penetration purposes. Maybe I'll just go all out and get an 8' tank. :> You said in the previous mail that acrylic is your tendency, even with a reef in a tank that big? <Yes... stock 240's come in 8 by 2 by 2 foot and 8' by 18 inches by thirty inch configurations... I would use the former if going with a stock size> I had a reef in my acrylic 120 and it definitely got some scratches. 180 gallons, that needs about 2-300# of rock and a big skimmer + refugium to remain stable...guess that's small enough that I could keep rock away from the walls in a lot of areas. 5) You seem to be a big needle wheel skimmer fan. Your opinion on those versus a good air injection (Bullet 2/3) or ETS downdraft type design for a big tank? <The needle wheel technology is superior... more removal per pass, less fooling with adjustments, less cost in electricity/pumping to operate... but there is consideration to how much skimming is practical... Bob Fenner> Thanks again! Jeff

Re: predator tank question Oops I can't believe I missed the fact that the skimmer "after" the refugium would of course destroy or filter or any of the refugium habitants on their way to the tank. <Yes> Thanks for the help...8'x2'x2' or 6'x2'x2' is probably what I'm going to settle with. 1 halide per 2'...175W or 250W, haven't decided. <Okay> Still have to research more to see if I think buying "Miracle Mud" is worth it, but I definitely want to set up a refugium of some sort in the sump. <Keep investigating. You will know> Think I'm settling towards a EuroReef CS8-1 as a skimmer. <A fabulous unit> Thanks for all the great help! You may hear from me again for "verification" before I buy some of this stuff hehe. Jeff <Be chatting my friend. Bob Fenner>

New fish-only tank I have a 125 gallon fish-only tank that I want to cycle. I'll have an Amiracle Sr 200 w/d with Turboflotor t1000 skimmer. I'm interested in using live rock. questions: 1) how much live rock? <Aesthetically? About as much as you'd like... Functionally? A pound to a pound and a half "per gallon"... look for "whole box" deals... > 2) cured or uncured? <Semi-cured (aka as cured) if you can afford it... really is the better deal... as much weight, time is lost in doing this oneself> 3) do I need the protein skimmer immediately? (I have yet to buy it) <I think so, yes. Best to save up, get ahead of the rock ("eat your Lima beans first...)... Please read over the "Live Rock" materials archived on our site, including the numerous FAQs there (www.WetWebMedia.com)> could you also give me suggestions on lighting? <Read the articles, FAQs on this field on the WWM site as well> my tank does not have a canopy. I want to set up a fish-only tank with live rock for added biological filtration. question: 1) what type of canopy to buy? <Or build... see the "Custom Aquarium"... > i.e. how tall 2) what type of lights specifically? any good brands you would recommend? 3) how much wattage for my set-up? <See the WWM site> thanks for your help, Knef <Thank you for your participation. Bob Fenner>

Contemplating a large FO tank. Hi Bob, Been doing a lot of thinking / considering lately regarding my system, and am considering a few changes to it, and thought you might be able to shed some light. <Okay> In recent months, several of my circumstances have changed, such that the regular long trips I used to make (8hr car journey) to get supplies (frozen food etc) will soon have to be all but stopped. Together with this, being around to feed my fish properly is also becoming a bit of trouble, due to time etc. <Important to learn/recognize what we "are about" and allocate our resources accordingly.> Thus, I have been considering changing my system to a "predator" type tank, which needs less attention to feeding and food, which is becoming an issue for me. What attracts me to fish such as the lionfish, grouper etc is that you recommend one or two feeds a week, preferable one large, and one small. <Yes, in general> I was thus hoping that the following might be a suitable plan for such fish. I could obtain fish stuffs, like squid, white fish, shrimp, clam, mussels etc from my fish monger every week when I went shopping ..... chop it up, and feed it fresh. I could keep a small amount aside, and then feed that a few days later as the "small" feed. I know while young the fish would need a little more care than that, but as large specimens, I would hope it would be as simple as I describe. Does this all sound ok ??? <Yes, thus far> Next, of the fish I had hoped to include in my collection, would be the following: 1) Lionfish (Volitans) 2) Groupers (Miniata and polka dot) 3) Triggers (Picasso and clown) 4) Morays (Snowflake, zebra) 5) Puffers (the "large" ones, also porcupine) 6) Wrasse (Lunare, Coris, Tuskfish) <A nice eclectic mix> I obviously do not want to keep all these fish, just a few .... say 3 or maybe 4 ??? <Depends on "which" are chosen... could be six or eight, or only one or two... the Clown will be the most limiting for instance.> The tank is 84"x18"x20" tall. I am feeling that it might be a good idea to forget the puffers, as they may harass others a bit too much, and be a bit "nippy". <Not really in this situation... but the Lion will have to be fed specifically in this mix...> From the remaining, would be thee any major compatibility issues i.e. generally speaking would a combination of or 3 or 4 single species from the remaining groups work out ??? At the moment, the selection might look something like a Volitans, Miniatus, clown trigger, Coris wrasse Or moray eel ........ how would that sound ??? Nothing rigid yet, that's just an example. If I were to include a wrasse, would the feeding schedule above be ok with him too ??? How about the trigger ??? I could offer a small amount of dried food pellets daily to supplement the weekly gorging. <Not too much problem to add an automated feeder to offer dried meaty foods for the wrasse/s on a daily basis... and the trigger/s are unlikely to take pellets... but will accept meaty frozen foods that you could make or buy.> Any other fish that I have not mentioned that might fit the bill ???? <Thousands of species> This tank will be the final home for these fish, there will not be a move to a bigger tank in the near future, as this is the biggest possible for at least the next 3 or 4 years, and probably longer. Thanks for reading. Regards, Matt <Keep studying and planning my friend. Bob Fenner>

Re: contemplating a large FO tank. Bob, Thanks for your reply ....... thorough as usual :-) ... much appreciated :-) This is not the first time you have advised me to "drop the trigger" .......... as you may recall, part of my existing set up, which I am trying to change, includes in it a clown trigger, and also and emperor angel, which is about 6", sub adult, and well able to look after himself I might add. Would he be a suitable substitute for the clown trigger ??? Keeping in mind the whole diet / tankmate thing ??? <Might get too hungry between feedings... best to offer food to even large Angels a couple times per day... or very vigorous live rock in a huge system...> I think probably not, but no harm in asking ....... I'd like to hang on to one of the two (emperor or clown) ... but if it is bad idea then it is best not to be sentimental :-) For both my sake and the fish. <I understand, believe me... Clown Trigger's are one of my faves... even commissioned a stained glass art piece of one years back... and it was the "logo" icon/fish for our retail stores, service companies... But are the epitome of unpredictable behavior, and must need shy on the side of caution here (on the net) where opinions go on and on... In more than half the cases, a Clown that started not too big would/will get along fine in your size, type of setting, with the sorts of livestock you list... But occasionally this situation can/will go sideways with the Clown becoming an unholy terror... You understand I'm sure. Bob Fenner> Cheers Regards, Matt

Re: contemplating a large FO tank. Hi Bob, <Hello> Thanks for your advice. It was very helpful. I have just read through wet web media, and through the conscientious marine aquarist, and found no real reason to doubt the success of my selection listed below, which is my first provisional selection. 1) Emperor angel (6" sub adult, which I already have). 2) Paddlefin wrasse (Thalassoma lucasanum) OR Checkerboard wrasse.*** 3) Long spined Porcupine puffer (or else bridled Burrfish ... preferably the former) Diodon holocanthus OR C. schoepfi 4) Volitans lion 5) Fuzzy dwarf lion ( D. brachypterus) 6) Miniata grouper ( C. Miniatus) ***I am a little confused about the checkerboard wrasse ..... on WW media I see you refer to H. hortulanus as the checkerboard wrasse (Also, the first article in the wrasse section of WW media, in the FAQ's, you mention H. hortulanus is a similar looking species to the T. Lunare only more peaceful and a better community choice) But the pics in the Halichoeres article look nothing like a Lunare. However, in the conscientious marine aquarist (on P284) I see you refer to Halichoeres centiquadrus as the checkerboard wrasse, <This "choice", identification is by the editor... but don't let common names throw you... for a real lesson here, choose the fish you'd like on fishbase.org and look over the common names for it... humbling> which indeed is quite like the Lunare wrasse, only nicer in my view. Are these the same species ??? Is H. centiquadrus (as feature in the book) the wrasse that you refer to as being more suitable for communities, less of a bully etc, than the Lunare wrasse???*** <Less> The only fish that I already have is the emperor ....... the rest would be bought as young specimens .... big enough to avoid being eaten by the lions and grouper though. I am under the impression the grouper will grow slower than all the others here, so they should all be safe ..... and the puffer and wrasse should grow quick enough to keep up with the lions. <Likely> My main concern would be the lions getting bullied.....especially from the puffer or wrasse. Do I need to worry about this ??? I had an experience before with a Lunare wrasse and a lion, and would hate a repeat performance !!! <Not much... just make sure the Lion is getting food> Is the stocking ok ??? Is it a bit OTT ??? <Probably okay> As far as the feeding goes ........ well I figure that if I set an automatic feeder with good pellets / dried food, that will help with the emperor and wrasse. I would also attempt to get a good Caulerpa culture growing in the main tank for the emperor to graze on, and I have 100 lbs of LR in there. There will be the two main feeds as described for the predators, and I figure a small amount of finely chopped fresh fish etc could be fed daily and would get quickly gobbled up by the emperor and wrasse before the rest have a chance ... would that sound ok for him ??? (Remember I am talking about fresh foods from the fish monger only, and not using shop bought prepared frozen foods). <Yes, likely so> Am I wrong in assuming that if I get a small specimen of Thalassoma lucasanum, it will be a "sexless" specimen, and in the absence of any others will become a male, and then a super male, displaying the fantastic male colours ??? <Maybe a less than spectacular "regular" male in time> Or are these guys born males, or females and keep their gender for life ??? <Most are undifferentiated, becoming females, perhaps males in time (not many)... a few are predetermined to be super males> Basically, what I am asking is, is there a chance I could end up with a comparatively drab female ??? Would the same apply to the checkerboard ??? <Less with the Checkerboard (hortulanus let's call a Banana Wrasse)> Thanks for reading, and for your ongoing help. Sorry about my confusion with the checkerboard wrasse thing ..... as you have said before, this is the danger of using common names, for all but the most certain species (an emperor angel is an emperor angle, for example :-). <You are so right> Regards, and many thanks again, Matthew <You're welcome my friend. Bob Fenner>

Marine Set-Up in Hawai'i (FO Filtration) Hi Bob, A friend gave us a 100 gal tank and skimmer for our shop. <Wow, what a gift!> It will be a fish only tank, no reef stuff since it's illegal in Hawaii. My friend told me to "ask Bob" for what filter to buy and any other essentials, and he will be getting us your book as a grand opening present. <More gifts!> I am brand new to this hobby and any help would be appreciated. Mahalo, Senji <Please read over the "Marine Aquarium Set-Up" sections on our site: www.WetWebMedia.com and their associated FAQs files here... there are a few "roads" to good filtration... as you will find... depending on desired livestock, budget... even though you can't strictly have "live rock", "live sand", stinging-celled life imported. Bob Fenner>

90 gallon FOWLR Good afternoon, I have a few questions that I hope you could help with. I have a 90 gallon with a 4" sand bed and around 80lbs of live rock and It's been running for about 2 months. This past weekend I finally moved my fish that had a temporary home in a 29 gallon to the 90 gallon. I have no plans for corals only fish and a cleanup crew. <Okay> My first question is if I should somehow try and save some of the bristle worms out of the Crushed coral bed and add them to the sand in the 90? Second I bought 10 very small blue leg hermits and 15 snails to get me started on a cleanup crew, what else do you think I need to buy to clean and stir the sandbed? What about a borrowing fish? (i.e. Blue spotted Jawfish) or do they eat to much out of the sandbed. <Many possibilities... some covered in a section "Sand Stirrers" on the Marine part of our website: www.WetWebMedia.com... best to wait a month or two here though for now... till the tank "settles in" a bit> Finally, the 90 gallon has 2 tank raised small Percula Clowns, a small Six-line Wrasse and a 5" long Palette Tang. I would really like to get a couple Bannerfish and a small juv. Imperator Angel. Would all of these fish get along? <Hmm, yes... though the Emperor will get too large for this system... probably within a year...> Would this work out OK until the Angel grew and I need to upgrade to a 180 gallon? And If so how long would that take? <Oh, we're thinking along the same lines...> Thanks a lot for you time and I really enjoy the WetWebMedia website. Thanks again!! Brent Heeres <A pleasure my friend. Bob Fenner>

Converting fish only tank to reef tank I have successfully maintained a fish only since Oct. '97 and I think it is time to step up to a reef tank. My current tank setup: <Like that bold statement> 45 gal glass tank Amiracle SL-150 (its a wet-dry filter using bio-balls) 1-24" regular fluorescent "full spectrum" light (whatever is least expensive) 1-24" regular fluorescent "Actinic Blue" (whatever is least expensive) Crushed coral substrate about 30 lbs of live rock (probably dead rock now) <Hmm> about 3 months ago I added a new fish to my take that brought with it a nasty bacteria that whipped out all but two of my fish. My remaining fish: Clown Fish: Amphiprion Percula (3 years) Yellow-Tail Damsel: Chromis xanthurus (the fish I lost were my more expensive fish, thanks to Murphy) <Hmm again> My copper test still shows color, although it is lighter than the lowest color on my test card. <Unusual... must be a chelate artifact...> I purchased two barely used ballasts from a local dealer with a great reputation. It cam with 4 96 watt power compacts (2 white and two blue) I made a canopy out of nice oak plywood and solid oak that will keep the lights 6 inches off the surface and it has a 4"fan for the heat. <Wowzah, sounds nice> Okay, now for my questions: Lighting: I have heard many views on lighting I was thinking of going with the 2 blue + 2 white setup but read that it might be best to just do 2 white and 1 blue. <Okay... should be fine> I have also heard everything from 8 hours to 14 hours for lighting. Why the difference and what is the benefit for longer? <Not much... depending on your intent. If "just" for looks (as opposed to boosting photosynthesis, possibly culture...) ten-twelve hours per day is about right...> Filter: Is my filter enough? Or do I need a protein skimmer. <You want a skimmer> What is the difference in what they accomplish? <Well, yes... the wet-dry is principally a speeded up, fast uprampable biological filter... with likely some mechanical filtering features as well (sponge, fiber somewhere in its path...)... the skimmer is to remove undesirable (and some not so) molecules... Once you see what it removes you'll be an advocate...> My filter has kept my fish only tank at perfect levels since about 3 weeks after I set it up. <Time, accumulation of metabolites... trying to add more, other livestock later... would show different results...> Copper: Is the trace amount still too much? I just purchased a bunch of snails that were perfectly happy until they got placed in my tank. All but a few died almost overnight. <Umm, no. You need to remove the vestiges of the copper treatment here. Either activated carbon or PolyFilter placed in your filter/flow pathway.> Substrate: Most of the places around here sell bags of dry sand and will give me some of their live sand to "activate" it. I have heard of GARF grunge and wonder if I should go with that only or as an additive or not at all. <Not at all... your live rock will inoculate the "dead" sand> What about a plenum? <Time to send you to our collective resource...: please go to, read over the materials posted on our site: www.WetWebMedia.com... under all these terms: "Plenums"... and all else you've mentioned...> I don't want to go through so much trouble of making one and have heard that a Thiel system of dividing the front from the back of the tank with a damn will work batter anyway. Speaking of GARF grunge, have you heard of their reef janitors? What is your opinion? <Yes... there are better sources, better "cleaner uppers" from elsewhere.> They say you need 1.5 janitors per gallon. One of the local fish stores says he won't sell hermit crabs because they eat the snails. GARF sails a mix of snails and crabs. Well, that is a good start. Have I left anything out? <Much my friend. But there is time. Bob Fenner> Thank you, David Goshorn

Thoughts on my stocking plan I'm thinking about setting up a 29 gallon fish only tank with the following: 20 pounds of live rock 1 Hippo Tang 1 Dwarf Lionfish (either a Fu Manchu or Short fin) 1 Flame Angelfish 1 False Percula Clownfish and possibly an Orchid Dottyback or a Royal Gramma (maybe both?) <This is too much livestock for a 29... I would drop the Tang and Dwarf Angel... and the Lion (albeit a smaller species, specimen) is likely to eat the Clown sooner/later> I also wanted to add a cleanup crew from FFExpress.com, which adds some hermit crabs, turbo snails and possibly a star fish or two like the Orange Knobby Star or Red Serpent Star and maybe a cleaner shrimp or two. <Get a Fromia sp. or a small Archaster... not the stars listed. And maybe an individual Shrimp> The tank already has an Eclipse 3 system and I was planning to add one of the new Prism skimmers or possibly a CPR Backpack. Since I'm not going to add any corals, I wasn't planning to upgrade the lights or add any other pumps and filtration. <Good idea on the skimmer, corals... maybe the lighting> Do you have any thoughts on this setup? I was wondering if I have too many fish or if the fish will outgrow the tank over time? Also, I was wondering whether the lionfish would cause problems with the smaller fish, crabs, snails and shrimp? Everything I've read about Lionfish usually refers to the full size members and not the dwarf members. Also would it hurt to add all of the fish at one time? <No, if the live rock is thoroughly cycled... a couple of months...> I plan to order the fish from FFExpress since the local fish stores often don't carry saltwater fish and when they do, they don't have much of a selection. It would be easier and cheaper to order them all at once. I plan to dip them but not bother with a hospital tank, since once the tank is set up, I don't plan on making any changes. <A workable plan> I don't want to spend a lot of money on this setup as I'm saving up for parts and livestock for my 110 gallon tank. I want to put a couple of Volitans Lionfish, a couple of Blue Spotted Stingrays and maybe a Snowflake Eel in that tank with about 50-100 pounds of live rock. But that project's a year or so down the road (maybe more depending on how much it takes to set up my 29). <Read about the Blue Spotted rays on the site: www.WetWebMedia.com, and leave them in the sea> Thanks in advance for the advice. I really enjoyed reading your book and can't wait for you to write one about stingrays.........Wayne <Scott Michael's ought to be out soon, thank goodness. Bob Fenner>

Re: Thoughts on my stocking plan Thank you for your answers and as you might have expected I have a few more questions. Would the Hippo Tang and Dwarf Lionfish be too much for the 29 gallon tank without any other fish? <Only when small... the Tang would languish in such a small system> Would the Flame Angelfish and the lionfish be a better combination for this tank or would the tang/angelfish combination? <The Angel would be worse> Would the cleanup crew also be in danger from the lionfish? <To some degree yes... and vice versa.. if the snails, hermits were ingested... could be curtains for both> Could I add the cleanup crew at the same time I add the fish? <Much better to add before... at end of full cycle of live rock...> I would rather have one or two larger fish than a handful of smaller fish. <Better to have two, three small fishes> I know that keeping Blue Spotted Stingrays is wrong, but the idea of keeping one of my own was why I got my first aquarium. <Not wrong, just very difficult. This species rarely lives in captivity> I spent a few years learning how to keep freshwater fish and kept a freshwater stingray for over a year, only to lose him when I moved halfway across the country. It's also a major part of the reason I want to learn to keep saltwater fish. Thank you for your time and advice.........Wayne <You're welcome. Bob Fenner>

Fish only with live rock I have a 240gallon tank with 6 true perculas and 3 damsels. It's being filtered with an AC500 and an Aquamaster600. I was wondering if I should add live rock? I plan on keeping a couple of angels, and I find that liverock is very beneficial. Now my question is, do I need a lot of lighting to keep the rock "alive" I only have 4x36watt bulbs. I thought I wouldn't need much to use live rock as an additional filter. If I put live rock in there, would the lack of light effect my water quality? And as for skimmer, do I need a large skimmer? like the RedSea Berlin XL? or would regular water changes be ok? Or is the skimmer required for the use of liverock? I would be buying "fully" cured live rock. Thanks. <The live rock is definitely a plus for you and your system. The lighting you describe will work, but barely... many of the organisms that will come in on/with your live rock will perish, and much of the photosynthetic material will just survive, not flourish. I would add at least the amount of intensity you have currently more... Look into totally upgrading into powercompacts (the hobby 'zines list kits, and much can be done through the big hardware stores here). And yes to having a protein skimmer... You're soon to be amazed at how much gunk this tool will be pooling out of the water, how much better your system looks, and the improved health of your livestock. Get one whether you use live rock or no, cured or not. Be chatting, Bob Fenner>

I recently wrote you about me upgrading my 125 FOWLR to an 180 FOWLR. My equipment consist of a 25 watt UV, MAK 4 pump, Turboflotor 1000, Nuclear canister filter, Approx. 150 lbs. of LR. You stated that you would need to know what type of fish my tank would include to determine if the Turboflotor would be efficient enough. Here is a list of what I would like to have. Any other recommendations would be appreciated. Coris Wrasse Dragon Wrasse Sohal Tang Naso Tang (2) Dusky Jawfish Harlequin Tuskfish Red Sea Sailfin Tang Assasi Trigger <The Turbo floater (I take it this is a 1000 model) should be fine... and if it were my system, I would probably just use this unit...> Haven't had any luck with the large angel fishes I get them when there about 3 inches and they do well for about a week then they start to loose there color and die on me. I'm somewhat afraid to spend any more money on them. <Don't blame you... and the limiting influence may well be all these other fishes... really kind of crowded... psychologically if not physiologically...> With this setup and fish like this do I need to concentrate more on a better protein skimmer or adding a 30 gal refugium with LR? <The latter if not both> If both which one first, How many lbs. of LR should be in the refugium? <the order stated, and about twenty to thirty depending on shape, density... and with Macroalgae and lighting... simple, on the sump.> Since space is kind of a concern if the refugium is added what I would do is connect my drains to a 100 micron filter bag at one end of the tank and have my protein skimmer next to it then my live rock, (would this be okay?) or does it need to be separate? <Can be together as stated> How can one tell if he has enough LR in a system to maintain it? Will a Dolphin pump be quieter and save me more money in the long run if I change pumps since I will have about 5ft of head pressure? Lots of questions but your assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thank You <Measures of nitrate are indicative, and the Dolphin/other direct drive fractional HP pump, is a very good idea on all counts. Bob Fenner>

Filtration for a FO System I currently upgrading my 125gal FOWLR tank to a 180gal. My question is what kind of filtration system would work the best on a heavily loaded system containing a red Coris wrasse, dragon wrasse, Queen angel, Naso and Sohal tangs. More fish will be added later. I currently have a Mak 4 pump, 25 watt U.V sterilizer, Nu-clear canister filter, 1 1/2 gallons of bio-balls, 150lbs. of LR and a Turboflotor 1000 P.S. Would you add another Mak 4 pump and Turboflotor 1000 or sell the skimmer and get an reef devil 750 (would this be just a waste of money.) And far as the mechanical filtration goes is the canister filter enough or is there a better method. <I would stick with your current mechanicals... and put the proposed money into a sump system with live rock, Caulerpa algae and some lighting (leaving it on twenty four hours a day)... rather than going to more skimming, wet-dry... You'll find this gets you the most improved, stable water quality in the long run. Bob Fenner>

New to Saltwater Bob, I am new to saltwater aquariums. I had a 30 inch cube glass tank made for a certain location in my new home. The tank has a center column overflow so it can be viewed from all sides. I have ordered two power compacts for lighting. filtration is a wet/dry with protein skimmer. I am still in the design process for the built in cabinet. I would like for it to be a fish only tank until I get more familiar with the water chemistry process. <Good idea> My question is: I am going for a uncluttered look. A few rocks and miscellaneous for hiding places. To season my tank I was thinking of live sand instead of live rock. <A possibility... I would use both... or at least some live along with your "base" (non-live) rock... more reliable for cycling... less algae problems down the line> Eventually I would like to turn this in to a Reef tank. When I get more knowledge and funds) Would you recommend that I place some live sand in the sump of the Wet/Dry? And how much would I need to purchase? Mark McCrary >> <I wouldn't place the live sand down in your sump... Do investigate the possibility, however, of building a plenum/denitrator there with non-line substrates (two grades)... More on this issue can be perused at my site: Home Page , under the Marine Index, terms like "plenum". Bob Fenner>

Just getting started. I am just getting started with a 75 gal tank. I have purchased a RIO 600 power skim and have a wet trickle filter with bioballs. currently I only have 1 40watt light. I am going to the store and buying R/O water to start. Is this a good start. Do I need more lighting if I want to have live rock. How much live rock should I put in the tank? Being a beginner should I stick with fish only? As much info you can recommend is greatly appreciated. chi >> Welcome to the ever-fascinating learning, and fun experience of marine aquarium keeping. Yes to more lighting... even if you're going to make this a fish only system, and even more so if you intend to have live rock... Look for full spectrum fluorescent lamps... While you're investigating matters, do consider getting, rigging up your own reverse osmosis unit... If you consider your tapwater as unsuitable for your marine aquarium, you shouldn't be drinking or using it for cooking... and such units are inexpensive, easy to install... For live rock stocking... more is better... up to a pound to a pound in a half per gallon... Check out the by the "box" deals FFExpress.com has... better to get it and cure it this way. Do consider first going "fish only" until you have a bit of experience... FO systems are more forgiving, less subject to outright problems than fish and invertebrate to reef systems... But do keep looking, studying, dreaming... and direct your livestock purchases to organisms that will mix (not big "eater uppers") for the time upcoming (I sense you're a fast learner) when you'll be craving a reef. Bob Fenner

Fish only tank lighting I recently changed my 20 g reef tank over to a fish only tank. My problem deals with the lighting. For my reef tank I had 2 55w power compacts. They really brought out the color in all my corals and fish. For my fish only tank I bought a double light strip with one daylight bulb and one actinic bulb. I am not happy with the way my tank looks while under this lighting. What lighting scenario would you recommend for a fish only tank? >> If you have two regular or boosted output fluorescents, I'd just use a couple of high CRI (color rendering index), daylight/white lamps like Dura's Vita-Lites... and skip the actinic altogether... unnecessary for the fishes... There are other brands... 92+CRI, 5,500 or so K temp... Bob Fenner


Small Marine Aquariums Book 1: Invertebrates, Algae New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner	Small Marine Aquariums Book 2: Fishes New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner	Small Marine Aquariums Book 3: Systems New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner

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