FAQs on Clown Gobies Foods/Feeding/Nutrition Related Articles: Genus Gobiodon Gobies, Related FAQs:  Gobiodons 1, Gobiodons 2, True Gobies,  Gobies 2,  Gobiodon Identification, Gobiodon Behavior, Gobiodon Compatibility, Gobiodon Selection, Gobiodon Systems, Gobiodon Disease, Gobiodon Reproduction, True Gobies: Goby Identification, Goby Behavior, Goby Selection, Goby Compatibility, Goby Feeding, Goby Systems, Goby Disease, Goby Reproduction, Amblygobius Gobies, Neon Gobies,  Genus Coryphopterus Gobies, Mudskippers, Shrimp Gobies, Sifter Gobies,  Large, aggressive tankmates can put small gobies right out of feeding!  Bodianus mesothorax.

Hopefully you can help save my yellow clown goby; not eating      10/22/13
Hopefully the geniuses (and I mean that sincerely not sarcastically) at WWW can help me save my yellow clown goby (Gobiodon okinawae).
<Will do my best>
I have him in a six gallon Fluval Edge with a yasha goby (Stonogobiops yasha) and the yasha's candy cane shrimp.
<Mmm; a note re such prawn/Alpheid assemblages in small volumes. Other fishes, motile invertebrates may "get punched">
 It's a mostly soft coral tank with a couple of small frags of Leptoseris and Acans to go with the pulsing xenia, Zoanthids, blue clove polyps, toadstool, large green glove polyps, Ricordeas and other mushroom corals.  I change about a gallon and a half of the water on a weekly basis and the water parameters are perfectly fine.
<Ok; though many of the Cnidarians you list can be dangerously allelopathogenic... IF upset could poison this system in short order>
My ycg has been a very typical member example of its species, bright and sociable with both people and the yasha and his shrimp.  So there have been no problems in the tank until this couple of weeks.  Until the last couple, the ycg was a very healthy eater and ate flakes, freeze dried and frozen food of all types.  However, over the last few weeks he has steadfastly refused to eat and is wasting away.
<Mmm>
I've tried soaking his dried food in garlic to no avail.  And I've added just about every dried, frozen and freeze-dried food in my repertoire.  The only thing I haven't attempted is live food of some sort.  But truthfully I don't know if that is the problem.  He's clearly hungry as he has gone from
a fat healthy fish to one I'm afraid will die in the next 48 hours or so.
There is no external parasites and if there are internal parasites they don't seem to affect the yasha goby who is still fat and healthy and is eating everything I put in the tank.
Any thoughts on how I can attempt to save him?  I'd hate to lose him. 
He's only about a year old or so.
<This little Goby may have swallowed something, or been stung... IF you have another established system where it will fit... I would definitely be moving it. IF you don't, I would entrust its care to another who does. Move it, now.
Bob Fenner>
Re: Hopefully you can help save my yellow clown goby     10/22/13
Thank you for the quick response.
<Welcome>
I also have a 29 gallon biocides filled with hard sps and Lps.
<Ah, great!>
  If corals were it's only occupants that would be a good place, but I have a falco Hawkfish and a neon Dottyback in there who would make short work of the ycg.
<Mmm, not so sure... Gobiodon are not the dullards they appear... and have a distasteful body slime... and are smart enough to hide amongst the stony coral branches...>
 I also have a 10 gallon cold tank with Catalina gobies that is equally inhospitable for obvious reasons.  The sole possibility for an established tank is I have a small two gallon tank I use exclusively to grow out macroalgae for feeding purposes.
<Might be the best choice... the 29 will be impossible to net out>
 It has some small dwarf Ceriths in there and has been established for at least a year.  It's a very small tank but then again the ycg is a very small fish.  If you think that the move and cramped quarters would be less stressful than his current environment I will move him. 
<I would; either the 2 or 29 gal.>
Like I said, I'm at a loss for what's causing the problem.  The edge is a tank that's been fully functional and "happy" for over a year and there's been no aggression. The only thing I can guess out is either an internal parasite of some sort but I haven't added new fish since the ycg and yasha went in and the corals are all at least six months old.  The other is the ycg had a favorite Favia that he nestled and nipped at and "loved" over a very long time he managed to kill it about a month ago.  Obviously that slime would not be his only food when he was happy as he would tear into anything I put in the water. 
Knowing the above, would you risk moving the ycg to the 2 gallon and try to rehab?
<See above>
 Or maybe purchase another Favia frag from my lfs and/or try to feeding bbs?
<Not I. BobF>

Yellow Clown Gobies, fdg.  08/18/2008 Hello! <<Good Morning, Andrew today>> Last week I added a tiny (about ¾" long) yellow clown goby to my AquaPod 24. He seemed fine and frisky at first, resting in all my corals. As usually, I feed my fish frozen mysis as well as frozen Cyclop-Eeze. Being so small, the poor little goby is always the last one to eat, and, unfortunately, he always winds up grabbing one of the larger mysis, which I didn't think was an issue in and of itself until yesterday... <<Ok>> I noticed that what he does is swim around and hide with the relatively huge shrimp sticking out of his mouth. After a little while (say, 5-10 minutes) he spits it out! I guess he simply can't swallow it or lacks the necessary dental equipment to bite it into manageable chunks. <<Sounds about right>> With that said, it looks like he's not getting any food! He will OCCASIONALLY feed on the Cyclop-Eeze but doesn't seem that interested in it. So, my questions are: 1. Can I feed this fish flake food? I used to use flake food but I always felt that it was so "artificial" and went to the mysis and Cyclop-Eeze instead. Also, I was worried about phosphates. <<Yes, this will be fine.. Or, you can bland meaty foods into a puree with a blender>> 2. If I should NOT introduce flake food, should I resort to chopping up the mysis? <<Flake can be used, but I don't like to rely on it>> 3. If neither #1 or #2 apply, is there ANOTHER source of food I can use? PS - He still seems frisky but I think he's a little thin. <<Blending seems the best choice for you, or finely chop up the mysis>> Regards, John <<Thanks for the questions, hope this helps. A Nixon>>

Starving Goby? 9/24/07 I've got a 55 gallon tank with one OC Clown and Royal Gramma along with new resident Brown barred Goby. <Mmm, I know of a Black Barred Goby (Priolepis nocturnus). It has been about 3 weeks since "Digger" has moved in from QT and he had been acting normal sifting sand and totally destroying my hair algae and other algae growth. He still sifts in the sand but could he have eaten all the critters in the sand so fast? <Possible.> I am afraid that he did too good of a job as he appears to be "wasting away". He doesn't seem to be very good at eating food, it's hit or miss with eating brine or flakes. I have just bought algae pellets, shrimp pellets and Tubifex worm cubes to try and entice some feeding. <At this stage, not so sure if he is going to recognize pellets as food.> Not sure if it is working or not. What is a boy to do? What can get this guy to eat something not in the sand. He ate brine fine in the LFS. <I'd try vitamin enriched Brine Shrimp and Mysis Shrimp. They are not that difficult to acclimate as far as feeding goes. Do read here and linked files above, especially  the FAQ's on feeding. James (Salty Dog)> Thanks again for your help, <You're welcome.> Brad

Re: Saving a Starving Goby! 9/26/07 Hey Scott. <Hello there!> An update on my starving Citron Goby. I haven't been able to catch and move him to my fuge. I did buy New Spectrum 1mm pellets as suggested (I opted for the $15 formula that is supposedly formulated for picky fish). I searched on-line and also asked for "glass worms" but people at the LFS look at me like I'm an idiot. I decided to try frozen blood worms in addition to frozen Mysis, Formula One and Cyclop-eeze flake, as well as whole freeze dried Cyclop-eeze. Everyone loves the blood worms. <A lot of fish do..> Unfortunately, in spite of feeding small amounts of pellets soaked in Selcon 2-3 times a day on top of normal feeding, my Goby continues to starve. I just can't figure this out. He chases down food like there is no tomorrow, but 9 times out of 10 he mouths the Mysis or worms for a minute and spits it out. The only thing I have seen him eat without spitting is Formula One flake. <Well, then I'd keep feeding the flakes. I'd keep enriching them with Selcon, etc..> I hate for this fish to die. The hard part is that he's not jut sitting around waiting to die--he's active, attempts to eat, seems to enjoy his surroundings. At a loss really. Andy <Well, Andy- I'm wondering about possible internal parasites. Sometimes, these fishes come in with parasites, and need to be "cleaned" internally. I'm wondering if one of the anti-parasitic foods would help. I've used these foods with Meicanthus species in the past with great results! Worth a shot in this instance. Keep trying...Consider putting vitamins in the water, such as Vita Chem...Could induce algae, but it is absorbed through the fish's skin, and possibly even consumed. Can help stimulate appetite. Again- take all necessary action to save the fish! Best of luck! regards, Scott F.>

Please Help My Citron Goby'¦ (Not Meeting Its Nutritional Needs) -- 09/16/07 Ahoy Crew. <<Oy Mate!>> It's actually been a long 2 weeks since I last bothered you. <<No bother, I'm sure'¦>> I am worried about my Citron Goby. <<Oh?>> He is skinny. <<Mmm'¦>> Really skinny. <<Not good>> Like, I can see his bones skinny. <<Really not good>> I've had him for about 2.5 months. <<And all the while slowly starving to death'¦is not an uncommon tale>> When I got him, he looked pretty good. He was in quarantine for 4 weeks, during which time I tried to fatten him up with frozen Mysis, but he seemed to like only brine shrimp--better than nothing. <<Ultimately (and unfortunately)'¦this is not really true>> Now he resides in my 110g (48x30x18). When I feed the fish, he is definitely interested in food, and he vigorously chases down food until he gets a few bites, and then he retires to his perch. He is very active, but he seems to be getting skinnier by the day. <<Indeed>> His other tank mates are a 4" Sailfin Tang, <<Really should be in a bigger tank>> a 3" Brown Combtooth Blenny, a 3" Gold Stripe Maroon, a 3" Filament Flasher Wrasse, and a 2" Royal Gramma. Everyone gets along beautifully. I also have 2 cleaner shrimps, 2 Sally Lightfoots, about 30 various hermits, 12 Turbos, 8 hairy green shrooms, 6 red shrooms, 2 Ricordeas, 2 small Capnella tree corals, a nice-sized Lemnalia, a red/dark brown BTA, and various very cool LR hitchhikers. I auto feed Formula One flake with an Eheim 3581 early in the day, and then feed when I get home using a variety of frozen foods (Mysis, minced squid, minced oyster, occasionally brine). <<A nice selection, though I would replace the brine shrimp with glass worms. The worms are very palatable and attractive to the fishes and are much more nutritious than the brine. I have often used glass worms to entice finicky eaters to start feeding>> I target feed whole Cyclop-eeze to the tree corals about every other day, and feed the BTA once or twice a week with minced seafood (squid, Mysis, or oyster). <<The problem with the goby is not the foods you are 'adding' to the tank, but rather the lack of 'natural' foods in the display. These 'coral' gobies are almost always found in close association with stony corals; more specifically, species of Acropora, Seriatopora, and Pocillopora'¦depending on species of goby. Most all these fishes feed on the mucus and occasional polyp of their chosen 'host' coral colony. Even if this fish is feeding every day, it is obviously still lacking something in its diet in the absence of a proper host coral. Simply adding Acropora frags will not solve the problem as the fish will irritate 'small' frags/colonies to the point where the coral usually suffers and dies'¦in my experience. Your best option might be to try the 1mm pelleted food from New Life Spectrum. This food has shown anecdotal promise with other 'difficult to feed' species such as Moorish Idols, and in my own personal experience, the Leopard Wrasse species Macropharyngodon meleagris. Soaking the pellets for a few minutes in an enhancement product like Selcon or Vita-Chem is also beneficial. If the goby will accept this food and is not too far gone already'¦well...is definitely worth the try. The Spectrum product is also an excellent addition to your feeding repertoire for all your fishes>> Filtration is wet-dry trickle, 90lbs of mostly pacific live rock (Fiji, Marshall Island, Tonga, Tonga Slab, and a few pieces of Florida aquacultured), a 30g in-line refugium with 4" DSB, 7 lbs Fiji rock, and Chaeto on a reverse daylight cycle, and an in-sump Coral Life Super Skimmer that works pretty well (now that I installed the Tunze Osmolator). In addition to the return flow from my Little Giant pump, internal circulation is via 2 MaxiJet 1200s and 1 MaxiJet 900 (I estimate about 1,600-1,800 gph). Lighting is via 6 T5 54W HO (4 10,000K daylights and 2 460nm actinics). 10% weekly water changes with pre-mixed RO/DI-Instant Ocean, and daily auto top-off with RO/DI. Chemical filtration is ESV activated carbon in the sump that I change every month. Numbers: Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, phosphate all 0; Calcium 350-400; alk 3.5-4.0 meq/L; pH 8.3; temp 78*-80*F. I dose/test daily (or as needed) with B-Ionic 2-part calcium buffer, and I add Iodine with weekly water changes. Oy! Bored yet? <<Not at all'¦your system sounds very nice/seems well maintained>> My refugium has tons of copepods and many amphipods. I've built up the live rock in the fuge so that it works up to the outflow, hoping to ensure that pods get into my display. I throw a few shrimp pellets in the fuge once a week to make sure there is food for the pods. <<Very good'¦is important in my opinion to feed a refugium if one wishes to keep the biota within 'populating'>> I would think with the fishless refugium, 90lbs of live rock in the display and supplemental feeding, the Goby should be in hog heaven, but obviously that's not the case. <<Indeed'¦for reasons stated>> I am seriously considering throwing the Goby in the fuge for a while to fatten him up (assuming I can catch him), but I'm worried that's just a temporary fix--that he'll experience the same problem once reintroduced (of course, I could always keep him in my fuge, but that sort of defeats the purposes of the fuge and of having him). Or . . . maybe he's just not happy in my tank and needs to go back to LFS where someone with a nano will pick him up. What are your thoughts on these ideas? <<Transferring the fish to the refugium can't hurt at this point'¦and may facilitate feeding with the Spectrum pellets soaked in the enhancement products>> I love this guy--his yellow color with striking blue lines. <<Lovely little fishes, agreed'¦but not easily kept in this instance>> I hate to get rid of him, but I don't want to kill him either. <<Unless you know someone with a mature system with large Acroporid colonies that would take it (and not completely without risk to the corals, as explained), you are likely this fish's best hope right now>> I really need a splash of yellow in my tank and like small fish. <<I will submit to you that the wrasse Halichoeres chrysus might fit this bill (depending on what you consider 'small') and be much more suitable for captive keeping>> As always, thanks for the insight. Andy <<Happy to share, Andy. Please try the Spectrum pellets (and the glass worms), and do let me know how you fare with this fish. Regards, Eric Russell>>

Re: Please Help My Citron Goby... (Not Meeting Its Nutritional Needs) - 09/17/07 Thanks, Eric. <<Quite welcome, Andy>> A big help. <<I'll keep my fingers crossed>> I actually received your email while in the LFS, so fortuitous timing. <<Indeed>> I picked up the New Life Spectrum For Small Fish--tiny pellets. I assume this is what you were referring to. <<Yes...as well as the regular (1mm) pellets>> The goby does like these pellets, so at least that's a good sign. <<Excellent...feed a couple/three or more time a day if/when possible...and do also consider the vitamin soak I mentioned. With the goby taking the Spectrum pellets it may just have a chance!>> I also picked up the yellow wrasse you mentioned. <<Ah yes, Halichoeres chrysus...a great aquarium/reef safe wrasse in my opinion>> I've actually had my eye on this fish for a while as a planned last addition, and the LFS had one that looked good for only $15. He is now swimming happily in QT. <<Excellent>> As for the Sailfin Tang, I know he is going to get big and that he may ultimately need to be moved/traded to a larger system. <<Mmm, not 'ultimately' my friend...can/will develop behavioral and health issues from 'growing up' in a too small system>> He was one of my first fishes, and I didn't think about too much about size as I assumed he would be similar to a yellow tang. <<Not even close...I've seen Zebrasoma veliferum that were larger than dinner plates>> Then I found WWM. Live and learn. <<Let's hope [grin]>> Unfortunately, it's a lot harder to get rid of a fish humanely than it is to buy one. <<Agreed...all the more reason for research beforehand...as you have learned>> Andy Bulgin <<Regards, Eric Russell>>

Acclimation/Citron Goby. Feeding a Citron Goby 8/13/07 Good morning Crew. <Hello Andy.> I have a Citron Goby (Gobiodon citrinus) that's in my 30g QT. I have had him a little over a week. He is very active at feeding time, but I'm not sure he is eating. He races all around and picks up the food, but he appears to mouth it for a few seconds and then spit it out. I've tried frozen Mysis, frozen brine shrimp, cut up pieces of squid, cut up pieces of gulf shrimp, Cyclop-eeze, live black worms, and, today, live brine shrimp that I hatched. I have read the FAQs and other sources of info on feeding the guy and (I think) have tried just about everything I've read. It's hard to see if he's getting skinny because he has such large pectoral fins, but from what I "think" I see (may be paranoia), he seems a little thin to me. Any thoughts? <Well, you are definitely offering foods that he should eat. Mmm, I think I'd try a 10% water change and see if that doesn't trigger an appetite, but skip a day of feeding after the water change. Hopefully he will start eating soon.> Thanks! <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Andy Bulgin

Re: Acclimation/Citron Goby, Feeding a Citron Goby  8/15/07 Thanks, James. <You're welcome.> It just so happened that I had done a 10% water change the night I wrote to WWM. The goby actually is eating, but only brine shrimp, which I'm fortifying with Selcon. <Much better than no food.> He chases the Mysis, but spits them out. Maybe he just needs time to acclimate. I plan to keep in QT for 4 weeks rather than 2 to see if I can't get him ready for the display. On another note, I have a question about splitting mushrooms. I posted this on the chat forum, but might as well ask the experts too. I have an Orange Ricordea that has split. The two shrooms are hanging together by a very thin piece of tissue. The original shroom is very well established on a piece of base rock, but the second/new shroom looks like it's going to drop onto the substrate when they finally split. What should I do with this shroom? Leave it on the substrate? Move it to another piece of rock (I'm worried that my flow will knock it off)? I'm new to keeping inverts so I don't have any experience with splitting creatures. Any thought would be appreciated. <I'd probably move it to a piece of rock in a low current area. It will attach in time. James (Salty Dog)> Andy

Clown goby disease?    5/3/07 Hi. I think that my clown goby that I just recently got (4/27/07) has some type of disease.  It hasn't ate yet, <... eaten> I tried to get some brine shrimp close to it and it would grab it in its mouth then spit it out. <... don't eat this in the wild... Live/feed on Acropora polyps: http://fishbase.sinica.edu.tw/Summary/speciesSummary.php?ID=9952&genusname=Gobiodon&speciesname=rivulatus> Also there is some discoloration on it.  It looks like bumpy skin. <I see this> The goby is in my 29 gal. tank that has been set up for over 3 years with 1 yellow tang (which is soon to be transported to my 125 gal.) 1 blue damsel, 1 percula clown, 1 cleaner goby, and some inverts and mushrooms. <...> i couldn't find anything on the web to help me out some I came to you. Thanks a lot! Calvin. <Should have studied ahead of buying... This specimen may have been toxified by the Cnidarians, bullied by the other fishes... has no place here. Bob Fenner>

Clown Goby Feeding... again     5/7/07 I asked a question a while ago, as to I was worried about my goby  looking skinny. I believe they are typically skinny, but you can see some brown  in his skin. Not sure if this is because he doesn't have much meat on his bones, lack of nutrition, etc. <Mmm, me neither... could be a "few things", but am concerned as I've seen this same sort of marking on captive Gobiodons and never on wild specimens> I was told to feed him variety. What I have is Mysis shrimp, Spirulina brine shrimp, krill, and squid. I figured this was a wide variety but he seems picky. <Yes... really need to live on (physically and nutritionally) live Acropora (Table Coral) colonies... this is what they do and eat in the wild> He does eat, but sometimes it looks like he can bite off more than he can chew, and sometime spits the food out. Its not always, but  I occasionally see it. I fed him the other day, and out of nowhere he spit out  a amphipod/copepod, and it was quite larger. I try to feed him as little as I  can at a time, so he doesn't run around trying to collect everything. I also  watch him chew his food, and occasionally spit some out. He does eat everyday I  assure that, but it looks like he is picky. What is the best type of food to get  these guys? Would you suggest another type of food? <Yes... the live SPS... You have read on WWM: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/gobiodonfdgfaq.htm BobF>

Re: Clown Goby Feeding  -- 05/07/07 Hi Bob or whoever is assisting me, I did learn that Clown Gobies would often perch around Acropora and feed off of it, but I didn't know it was vital or just extremely important to house one. The problem is that I don't think my lighting is strong enough to keep Acropora, but possible to keep some other SPS corals. My lighting is a Nova Extreme T5HO with a retro fit kit along with it, its the 36" fixture. If I place the coral near the top of the tank or even in the middle, could it be possible  to house SPS corals for my Clown Goby? <Possible> I want whatever is best for him, but I  know that many of these corals are in need of high lighting. Even though I made  this mistake, I decided to purchase more books so I can learn more and   prevent any mistakes, so I can plan much easily now than I did in the  past. Thanks Joe (I posted the email before in case you would forget or not be able to see  it otherwise) <Good. RMF>

Goby Diet, Mix it Up!  4/26/07 Hey WWM Crew, <What's up Joe?> My Clown Goby looks awfully skinny. <Uh-oh.> I never really noticed it before, until   I really took a good look at him. You can almost see through him, and notice his  bones and organs. <Mmmm...not good, he needs some meat on his bones!> He isn't really plump as other clown gobies look in person and  in pictures. I feed him every single day, and I watch him eat. <What is he eating though and how much?> The only other  fish in the tank is the Flame Angel, and he favors the Spirulina shrimp much  more than the Mysid. The goby loves the Mysid, usually eating as much as he can. <Try mixing it up a little. Variety is important with diet, go for some Mysis (PE is a personal favorite of mine), krill or even some finely chopped mussel or bivalve meat. Also consider a vitamin/fatty-acid supplement like Selcon or Zoecon.> He doesn't really fear the Angel, he will sometimes attempt to out compete him  and get as much as he can from the cube and take it to the top of his power  head. What I do when I feed is place the cube on the surface, holding it with my  fingers, and let a certain amount of pieces break off, and save the rest.  Otherwise I would have a lot of uneaten food and excess nitrates. Is there a way  to beef him up? Or is it normal appearance? <See above....remember "VARIETY."> From, Joe <Adam J.>

Citron Goby eating behavior?  - 03/02/07 Hi Guys! <Hi Kim, Mich here.> I've had a Citron Goby for about 6 weeks now.  It has slowly withered away and has stopped eating within the last 3 weeks.   <Uh oh!  Not good.> We have an established 75-gallon tank (protein skimmer, UV filter, refugium, calcium reactor) with plenty of live rock and hiding spaces, great coralline algae growth, and all the water quality numbers seem perfect. The other tank-mates act like sharks during feeding times (yellow tang, Kole tang, Foxface, skunk clown, long-nose hawkfish, Anthias, cleaner goby, pygmy angel, six lined wrasse, crew of Chromis) and are seemingly plump & healthy.   <That's a lot of fish.> Due to aggressive feeding behavior of the other fish, we thought the goby was just too timid to compete for food.  Although it does not eat, the goby is still out in the open, perching on coral, hanging on to the glass, and occasionally just swims in open water. There are no signs of abuse by the other fish. <OK.> The Goby appears to recognize there's food, as it will chomp at the food, but then spit it back up.  We alternate types of food between live brine shrimp (enriched w/ phytoplankton), frozen enriched brine shrimp, frozen Mysis shrimp, Formula 2 flakes, Cyclop-eeze, bloodworms, and zooplankton.  We've also tried putting drops of garlic and multivitamins on the food. All this with the same result - the fish just seems to spit it out. <A nice variety of foods.> Yesterday, while the goby was perched on the glass, I was surprisingly able to catch him (the fish are used to our hands in the tank to fix coral/rocks that have fallen) and have successfully placed him into our 25-gallon refugium.  We hope to rehabilitate him down there, by himself, until he starts to put on more weight.  We tried feeding him live brine shrimp, but again, he jumped at the sight of them, nibbled, spat them out, nibbled again, spat yet again, and swam away. <I think this was a good move, natural food possibilities in the refugium.> Any suggestions on what to feed this anorexic citron goby? <My biggest recommendation would be Selcon.  I would soak all foods offered in it.  Otherwise, I would keep trying the meaty foods perhaps even some intended for human consumption like finely shaved shrimp.  Make sure any pieces are quite diminutive.  Hopefully will do better in the refugium without all the other fish come feeding time.  More info here:  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/gobyfdgfaqs.htm> Thanks for all your help. <Welcome!> BTW your website it great! <Thanks!  Glad you like it!  -Mich> Kim

Citron Goby ... feeding mostly   5/9/06 Hi Everybody, <Chris> Hi from the UK, guess what - I need your expertise! <Hotay!> On Friday I bought a Citron Goby, he was eating ok at the fish shop & looked fine, they had had this fish in the shop for 2-3 weeks prior to my buying him. Since then he has been in my new(ish) tank (established February this year) he hung about on the back wall and the front corner for Friday evening & most of Saturday (when a head of Acropora was added - first sizeable coral to be added (apart from the Xenia colony temporarily in there)) on Saturday night he hung about close to the Acro but on Sunday he was hiding behind the rockwork against the centre back overflow. <Unusual... you likely know this genus largely lives on, in, under Acropora tables, feeds on their polyps in the wild>   On Saturday he ate a little but since then has not eaten (trying with frozen brine & Mysis) also his breathing seems very rapid to me - up to about 100 x per minute (gill movements) & he seems to have become paler.  He now seems reluctant to move, allowing food to drift right past him with no attempt to feed. <Not unusual... stress from moving...> Tank specs are - 50gal 200 litre main tank - 24" cube, internal weir mud sump below with Chaeto (currently has carbon & PolyFilter in also) 5000 litres of water movement per hour 150w HQI MH Tunze Nanodoc skimmer 3 to 4 litres evaporation per day replaced with saturated Kalkwasser through auto top off with Peri pump & floats (which indicates a high calcium demand to me bearing in mind the small load of calcifying organisms (list below & calcium slowly dropping unless supplemented with Tropic Marin BioCalcium) which confuses me a little, does this seem appropriate to you? <Mmm... well... seems high for what you list... But you're likely engaged in a/the self-defeating mix of alkalinity and biomineral... precipitation here... Please read: http://wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm and the linked files above> 30 kilos LR (Indonesian) 2 cleaner shrimp assorted cleanup crew 2 small plating Monti frags (large coin size) 1 small 1 1/2" Monti digitata frag 1 small 1" Acro frag & the new Acropora head mentioned above 3"-4" across Tests today - 1.025 sg Ammonia 0 Nitrite 0 Nitrate 0.2 Temp ranges 26.5deg c to 28deg c pH 7.95 ranging to 8.22 Alkalinity had dropped a little to 9dkh Calcium a little depressed at 370 Dissolved Oxygen at about 5mgl (initially tested about 3mgl but I retested & also tested my old tank for comparison which came out  at 6mgl) both these readings struck me as low (new tank & old tank) considering both have skimmer & lots of water movement - any thoughts? <Seven mg/l (or ppm) is likely about all to be expected, possible here... given temperature...> Background - About 3 weeks ago I added 2 Banggai Cardinals - one I found dead (intact) after 2 days (without warning) & the other disappeared completely without trace after 11 days with stringy white trailings from anus visible the day before (this fish wasn't over keen on food either but was eating & still in good shape when it died), <You don't mention the "Q" word... quarantine... You should be using such> corals and all other life remain in excellent health.  I am becoming very worried about the new Goby and am unsure of how to proceed, I have had great success with my old tank (with WWM help of course, sincere thanks to you all) & have my 2 clowns whom I don't want to risk in the new tank with this behavior & unexplained fish death.  I clearly don't want to risk this Goby either especially after the heartbreaking loss of first one then the second Banggai.  I have read I think most of the Goby FAQs and those others which seemed most relevant currently (recently) and a great many others in my year and a half of reefing.  So, what to do about my Goby? <Mmm, for one, read re the ping-pong issue re supplementing both alkalinity and biominerals... do this in new water for change-outs... consider cutting the "Kalk habit"... and the possibility of adding vitamins to live foods to entice the Gobiodon> Please do let me know if I can add further information at all & I look forward to your advice Cheers   Chris P.S If there is a footer on this email with my work details please delete before posting (sometime it shows up, others not) Many thanks. <Will do. Cheers, Bob Fenner, in not-so-sunny S. Cal.>

Stow away jackpot! Hi Bob! I thought I could ask you a question about a stow away that I recently picked up from Tropicorium from Romulus MI. I purchased a 4-5 in. Acropora tan with white tips about two weeks ago. Along for the ride was quite a few critters. I first noticed a couple of large crabs. One "fuzzy" brown with blue eyes and another solid white with black eyes. No big deal, they don't seem to be damaging the coral so I left them in. After a closer look with a flashlight at lights out I noticed not two crabs but 7, and a very small clown goby. I feel I got more than I bargained for. My question is how can I get my clown goby to feed. I have tried to use prime reef in a dropper above the coral, but the goby refuses to leave the branches. He's a beautiful fish and I would like hate to lose it to starvation. Any ideas? <Try frozen Mysis shrimp and/or Seawater Zooplankton. Also, keep a close eye on that coral and the crabs.> Best Wishes! Brad Stefanko <You are welcome. -Steven Pro>

Clown Goby Chow... Happy Holidays Wet Web Crew! <And a great holiday season to you and yours! Scott F. with you here tonight!> Just a quick question... I think I've decided on the fish for my new 20G reef. I'm thinking 2 Purple Firefish and 2 Clown Gobies. <Be careful with the Firefish. Many times, when placed in pairs or groups, one fish will dominate the other(s), until he or she is the only one left! Unless you obtain a true mated pair (rare), or have a large tank with lots of rockwork to separate the fishes' territories, I'd keep one to a tank..> It has been cycled with L/R for about 3 weeks now. However a week and a half ago I found a really skinny Mandarin at the pet store, so I brought him home. Put him in the tank and he quickly became the fattest mandarin I have ever seen. <Great to hear that. A mandarin that eats is a joy to behold!> So I took him back hoping he would have a better chance of surviving long enough to go to a new home. I say this because now that I've been digging through your FAQ's on clown gobies I've seen that they too like to munch on critters in the substrate. Do you think the Mandarin would have depleted the clown gobies munchies? Or will he be fine with frozen Mysis and the likes? <I think that it's more common to have a clown goby eat frozen and other prepared foods, such as Mysis, than it would be for a mandarin to do the same. You are right, though, as far as 'pod eating fishes, such as mandarins: In a small tank (I mean anything under 50 gallons), it would be problematic to have more than one to a tank, as the 'pod and infauna population simply would not be sufficient.> Merry Christmas if we don't speak again before! Melinda <Same to you, and I'll throw in a Happy New Year at no extra charge!>

Clown/Goby Feeding and Majano questions Greetings! Three days ago, I added my first fish tenants to their new 30g home after five long weeks of cycling.  The True Percula and Citron Goby appear to be doing well, although the goby has adopted the upper heater suction cup as its perch, causing my wife to question the wisdom of my fish choice.  The only anomalous reading thus far was a brief ammonia spike of 0.2 after 24 hours, which was remedied by a 3g water change. I was unable to get either fish to eat flakes or pellets, and they let the Formula 1 frozen food sink to the bottom.  The LFS has brine shrimp, but I now know they are bereft of nutrition.  I did, however, seem to hit pay dirt with Sweetwater Zooplankton.  Both fish have nibbled at this (and my peppermint shrimp happily eat the rest).  My question is this:  is zooplankton a sufficient nutrient source for these fish?  I would still like to try Mysis shrimp, but have not yet purchased them.  I am more concerned about the goby, since I have seen it attempt to eat much less than the clown.  <  The plankton alone will not be sufficient although it is a very good food.  Try to give them a varied diet with as many different foods as possible.  They should take flakes after awhile but just be patient.> Next question: I have a Majano problem that is primarily located on one piece of LR (about 2-3 pounds out of about 30 pounds total).  In addition to the Majano, I have noticed some tiny Aiptasia growing, as well. Unfortunately, my shrimp are altogether uninterested in helping me with the Aiptasia.  Would it be feasible to pull the piece of rock, nuke the small polyp Majano and Aiptasia with the hot Kalk mixture, rinse with my heated/aerated change water, and return to the tank?  Any idea how long it would take for those suckers to drop off?  Would the ensuing die-off be too great a bioload for my new inhabitants?  Should I just chuck the piece of rock in question?  There are about 3-4 of each type of pest located elsewhere in the tank, but at least 30 Majano on this rock and about a dozen Aiptasia.  <Make sure your shrimp are actual peppermints and not camels which are peppermint look-alikes.  If these are peppermints they should eat the Aiptasia in time.  You can find everything you need to know in the Majano here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/otherpstanemfaqs.htm Best regards, Cody.> Thank you again for all your assistance thus far. JPM

Clown Gobies Dear WW Media, <Hi Laurie, MacL here with you tonight> Recently I purchased a green clown goby and a yellow goby for my 150 gallon tank and have had both fish in quarantine for the last 2 weeks.  The yellow is eating well and will accept baby live brine (enriched with Selcon), Cyclop-eeze, Sweetwater zooplankton, and tiny pieces of frozen formula one. It is hard to tell, but I think the green goby is only eating the baby brine. <Not good unless the baby brine has been supplemented with Zoë or Selcon or something similar. Brine shrimp alone doesn't have much nutrition.> Its abdomen is sunken (it arrived that way) and I am concerned that it might not be getting enough to eat. <It might also possibly have some type of intestinal worm or even possibly cyanide. I hope not but its always important to pick a fish that is healthy looking at the store. Sorry didn't mean to sound like I was preaching.>  Theoretically, will the baby brine be enough to help it gain back some weight?...Or, is there another food you would suggest trying? <I'd try to get some pods or at least soak the baby brine with some Zoë or Selcon or some other type of vitamin supplement.>  I have read that copepods are a big part of this fish's natural diet---aside from spending a large fortune to ship in some ocean plankton is there any other good copepod substitutes? <You can get copepods in various places. Many stores online sell them and you can find Mysis most places. Your local pet store might be cultivating them. I know people who put pieces of PVC in their tank for the pods to breed. Then they close off both side pull it out of the tank and use it to seed other peoples tanks.> Originally when I set up my Q-tank I added a small live rock from the main tank to help establish the bacterial bed. Along with the rock came a few Mysis(?) shrimp that resided in the main tank. <Great copepods!>  These seem to be the perfect size (2xs the size of new hatched brine) for the goby's little mouth but I haven't notice it eat any. I did try live brine adults but these were too big--- neither goby attempted to eat them. The last few days I have tried adding the baby brine three times a day (without fouling the Q-tank) to give the goby a longer foraging time since after a few hours the numbers of brine floating about decreases. To complicate matters I have noticed a few patches of its skin that seem bleached/discolored and possibly a white spot or two today.  It still is eating though. <This doesn't sound good. It might be ich, the vitamins should help this as well.> Unfortunately, I moved the yellow goby to the main tank a day ago in hopes to reduce competition for food. The yellow goby has no spots, looks very healthy, and it is eating ok in its new environment. Assuming that these fish are pretty resistant to ich could I possibly have infected my main tank? <Possibly but you might not have as well if its showing no signs of infection. Its always best to do a full quarantine but I do understand your thinking on this.> After watching the behaviors of both fish I would recommend to anyone interested in clown gobies to pick the yellow species over the green since they seem hardier, more outgoing, and are more likely to move about in the open. I have a 2 year old mandarin in the main tank which eats baby brine etc. and despite what the books say it seems much hardier than clown gobies. <I'm betting your mandarin is also eating Mysis and other pods in your rocks. Good luck, MacL> Laurie