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Icp test questions 2/13/19 ATS guide part 1. Santa Monica Algal Turf Scrubbers -
02/04/19 Considering new tank, filter system unfamiliar... For what
type of sys? Adding a New Tank to my System
12/27/11 Re: Off-Grid 70/90 Gal? First Salt Tank: Filtration options 11/15/2009 Re: Bioactive sand turning brown, New Tank
9/3/09 Conscientious Aquarist book, chem. & mech.
filtration 7/2/09 Salty Dog Question if possible 220 salt water fish... filtration f' 2/4/09 Hello please respond if you have time. I have a 220 with dual over flows going down to two Tupperware sumps. One is 20 gallons just holds a Coralife 220 skimmer, the other one approx 30 gallon has large mat pre filter sitting on top of about 20 gallons of submerged bio balls and one little giant md4 return. my question is that i would like to build three towers out of 5 gallon pails with proper dip plates and keep the bio balls above the water line, can I do this all at once so i can scrub the bottom of the sumps.? <Could... but I want to state that I'm not a fan of using plastic biomedia, nor mechanical filter pads in most saltwater systems> The tank has been set up for a couple of years all levels normal 3 small lion fish, <... Why are these still small?> 3 small snowflake morays, <And these?> one large green wolf eel, one huge soldier fish and one marine beta 6 inch and one 6 inch porcupine puffer, the tank has 100 lbs of dead live rock and one 175 metal halide. <One? Must be kind of dark outside this cone of light> thank you <Welcome... Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm Peruse these articles and FAQs files... re other input re marine filtration possibilities. Bob Fenner> Filter idea's and UV questions. Filters/Selection 2/209 Good Morning to you. <Good afternoon Paul> I was at my local pet shop and seen a huge corner tank that looked beautiful and had 10 fish in it and was a reef set up with about 4 inches of gravel in the tank. The only filter on the tank was a protein skimmer, single canister filter and a very large UV sterilizer. Can you tell me the benefits of the UV on a reef tank.... I was told UV's were not a great add on and the question is still out there if they benefit or hurt a system. <They are beneficial but I would only use on a fish only system as they do kill the good with the bad i.e. pods etc. Do read here. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marphysf.htm> I have just a fish and live rock tank on 125 larger bioload.15 fish with 10 of them being the size of a clown or 6 line wrasse, so the bio-load is not that bad with the smaller fish. I run a wet dry filter with a Aqua C protein skimmer, two media filters with carbon and phosphate remover, and two power heads with sponges on them in the tank. Want <What> would you suggest I add for filtration... should I add a lifeguard system to filter the water better and get more carbon into the system...... with so many theories out in the fish market. I really would love to hear someone list the equipment they would suggest I use on my fish/live rock tank. Would I benefit more from having a UV on my tank or would you say that on a fish only tank I should use a refugium sump... Also, this tank is beautiful with a deep gravel bed. I was told deep gravel beds were a negative in a tank and more beneficial in a sump? Please let me know if you think I should be adding a UV to my tank? <Reading the above link will help you decide on using an UV. As to DSB's, I'd much rather use a refugium type sump. Read again here and related articles/FAQ's. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/refugium.htm As for filtration choice on your size tank, I'd go with an Ocean Clear in-line filter. Much more filtering area than the Lifeguard, and a model is available with a built-in UV if you desire to go that route. Incorporating double quick disconnect valves make servicing easy. Look here. http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+3579+3662&pcatid=3662> Thank you so much for your help and suggestions. Great web site lots of information on your page.... <Thank you, and you're welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Paul Re: Filters Ideas And UV Selection 2/2/09 Filters/Selection Hello Again James. <Hi Paul> I know ultimately this is my decision to make. I will research your site on the provided links. If I understand you correctly, Your suggestion to me for my fish/live rock tank would be to turn my wet dry into a small refugium tank and add an Ocean Clear pleated filter as my mechanical filter on the main system... <Is just my suggestion. There are others on the market, choose which fits well with your operation and budget.> Is it my understanding that the refugium will help my system out against nitrate while the skimmer would help take out the dissolved organics <Both of these methods will help lower nitrate levels immensely.> and the Ocean Clear would take out the un-dissolved organics. <Along with a place to put chemical media if needed. The pleated filters can also be cleaned/reused.> I like what you are saying here. Do you suggest carbon in the system? <If needed, it is a double edged sword, will also filter out some trace elements.> One last thing James or whom it might be answering this. <Once a thread is started, the original crewmember answering it takes it to the end.> The gravel bed in the main tank should be shallow or just enough for my wrasses to dig themselves under. <Yes, three inches should be fine.> Is this best to vacuum this gravel out weekly/monthly, while leaving the refugium gravel bed alone and not vacuuming that out... <I vacuum my substrate every time a water change is performed and I do recommend it.> help me out on the UV, your real thoughts on a UV???? <UV systems are great for commercial/LFS use where tanks share a common sump. Any parasitical/bacterial spores are killed on contact thereby aiding in disease control/prevention in the entire system. If you are using a sterilizer, and a parasitical disease manifests itself in your tank, the UV is not going to cure the fish, will just kill unattached spores looking for a host, again lowering the chances of infecting other fish. Excellent water quality/parameters and nutrition go a long way in preventing disease. For a home aquarium, my choice would be ozone over UV as it does raise the Redox potential and aids to more efficient operation of the skimmer. I use neither of the two, but I tend to under stock and provide good water quality and nutrition. The last fish I lost was about three years ago...think he was older than me.> Thank you very much!!! <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Paul Natural filtration Vs mechanical 1/3/09 Hey Crew! <Hello> I am an active member on a reef forum and was asked to get some information about which overall is better, natural filtration such as Caulerpa, Chaeto, seagrass, mangroves, DSB, ATS or mechanical filtration such as skimmers or canister filters. <A combination of both is best in my opinion.> I have looked and looked and can not find any research data on this subject. I understand that if one was to use a skimmer rated for twice the water volume of the tank, it would be better than a handful of mangroves, however, what if there was a combination of natural filtrators that are being used, would they be better than a skimmer? <Personally I think a skimmer is the single most important piece of equipment there is for a tank, and would not go without one. However I put very little faith in their size rating, going more with overall quality.> For example, in my system, I have a 55g reef with 80lbs of Caribbean LR and a 1.5" sand bed. The 55 is looped into a 40g plant tank where I have 20 mangroves, a 5.5" DSB, and Caulerpa and some Halodule wrightii. Then, the 40g plant tank runs into a 20g sump where there is another 30lbs of LR rubble. I personally did not run a skimmer for 8 months and did not see any negative affects because of this, however I also do not have a heavy bioload. <Most likely the low bioload is mostly responsible, and not to belittle your accomplishments, but 8 months is really too short of a time to determine if your methods will be successful in the long run. I don't mean to say you will not continue in your success, it's just tough to draw conclusions at this point.> I understand each system is different and each person finds the way that works for them. <Very true, but I will add I think most all tanks will benefit from a skimmer.> If one had the space, would it be better to have mechanical or a more natural means of filtration? <Well, if a baseline of a skimmer is there, I think many tanks can benefit greatly from macroalgaes, turf scrubbers and the like, often more so than some other mechanical means such as canisters and HOB filters which can be maintenance nightmares. My only concern is with some macroalgaes which can be quite aggressive chemically and effect corals and other invertebrates, and even fish life if proper water changes are not done.> This is assuming the mechanical filtration is rated for twice the water volume of the tank it is filtering. <Again I don't put much stock in these ratings, but a quality skimmer is worth much more to your tank than one of poor design, to the point where perhaps the skimmer is not doing much for you at all.> There is someone on the forum who runs an ATS and swears by it. If an ATS and DSB are utilized together can they together be as good as a skimmer rated for twice the tank volume? <Not in my opinion, I would rather remove the organics completely from the water column than sequester it in algae.> I am looking for data that states something like "in a 5 hour period a skimmer can collect ______ amount of _______ and in a 5 hour period a 3 lb patch of Chaeto can absorb ____ amounts of _______. <I have never come across data such as this, very little scientific studies are done directly for the hobby, although you may have some luck locating such data as it applies to food stock aquaculture.> Sorry if it seems I am being picky, but any and all info will be much appreciated! Thanks for your time! -Elliott <Sorry I don't know of any quantifiable data such as what you are looking for, and can only go by the collective experience of myself and friends in the hobby. Unfortunately there is little to no scientific research done of ornamental fish keeping, which is sad for the livestock in our care, but great for the many forums on the internet, where even the most ridiculous theories are often touted as truths. In a world where money decides what research is done, there just is not enough of it to justify good science for the hobby.> <Chris> Eheim & Wet-Dry Media for Marine 11/12/08 Hi Folks, <Justin.> I have a newly established 90 gallon aquarium with 130lb Live Rock (already cured, from an established aquarium), and 80lb of aragonite sand. My aquarium was converted from a Freshwater, as such I still have my Eheim 2317 canister filter in operation, it did a fabulous job on my Freshwater aquarium. (It was employed for over 10 years, and never had a problem.) <Sounds like typical Eheim!> I would like to continue using this filter, though cleaning it is difficult (due to the set up of my aquarium stand, and positioning of the canister. I'm currently disabled, and it's difficult to disconnect everything and carry to the sink to clean.) I do understand that a lot of waste products can get caught in the canister filter eventually raising nitrates. <It can, does.> I was curious if using ONLY Live Rock bits (rubble?) in the canister filter will be more beneficial than using the supplied media pads and floss? <An idea, would require less maintenance.> And, will the maintenance schedule remain the same with Live Rubble as with the media pads? (weekly cleaning) <It would be less, to the point of just making sure nothing is settling inside the filter.> I also have a Tom Pro Wet/Dry filter with media baskets, medium sized protein skimmer, and automatic top-off (to top off evaporated water). This is much easier to clean than the canister filter, since I can open it while it's in operation, pull out the media baskets, rinse/replace, and drop it back in.) I was thinking of putting the carbon pads, chemi-pure, floss, etc. in here, where it can be easily cleaned weekly. <It is an easier place to put it, one of the big advantages of a sump.> Currently there is no lateral room for a sump setup under the stand unfortunately, and the aquarium was set up only a few inches from the back wall, too close to add anything HOB style (as mentioned, this was previously a freshwater setup, the aquarium was positioned and planned for this setup initially.) Any advice is appreciated, thanks... <I really see no benefit to using the canister with your LR and sump. I would just take it out altogether.> Justin <Welcome, Scott V.> Filtration Options, System in General 10/15/08 Hello, <Paul.> I am switching my tank over from a wet dry system and would like a few options... I was going to set up a old 75 gallon tank as a refuge tank or just a live rock tank. What is your opinion on the two.. <Both are worth while, you can do a refugium with a purposefully grown macroalgae and live rock; really the way to go.> I have a 150 gallon fish/live rock tank with 150 pounds of rock in it... The wet dry filters I keep hearing are not an option and add to the problem of building up algae. <Indirectly, through the accumulation of primarily nitrate.> Should I put a light over the 75 gallon refuge tank? <I would, with the macroalgae, on a lighting cycle reverse that of the main display.> Is the 75 gallon overkill for a refuge tank or live rock tank should I still put light over it if it is just a live rock tank? <75 is a nice large refugium, by no means too large. You will have little to no benefit to lighting just rock, a huge benefit with the addition of the macro.> ... How much extra live rock do I need in the refuge tank? <Depends on how you end up setting this up, anywhere from 50-100 lbs, the more the merrier.> Should I still use carbon in a chamber filter? <You can.> How much water movement should I add to the 75 gallon tank so it does not become stagnant? <Generally the same that applies to your display, a minimum of 10X turnover within the refugium itself will do the trick.> Many questions, I know. I am just looking for the best option and heath of my fish.... <This is a good one.> Thank you for the time and all the help... love the site and read a lot, but sometimes it is nice to ask directly to my own situation. <Glad you have found the site of use.> Thank you again, Paul <Welcome, Scott V.> Filtration Questions & Lighting Question. 06/05/2008 125 gallon aquarium AGA, at least 200-300 lbs of rock, Fiji, holey lime and bowl. Substrate is mostly crushed coral and sand. <<Make sure the crushed coral is kept very clean to save elevated nitrates>> Life forms - soft corals. Fish - too many, but working on getting them down to a low roar. Lighting - T5HO 4 6' long, CF 96 watt bulbs, 6' length. 2 heaters, I think high wattage, but not sure off the top of my head. Timers set for lighting to fluctuate. 3 hours T5HO, 3 hours of T5HO + CF, 3 hours of CF. Is this a good schedule? <<Sounds fine, as long as about 8 hours of white marine light is apparent, i don't see any issues>> Refugium - Aquafuge Pro Large, built-in skimmer, 17 gallon holding area, return 2100 Rio, maxi-jet 1200 on skimmer, kelp and Chaeto and something else, 8lbs of live Fiji, substrate is crushed coral and sand. <<Ok>> I have a wet/dry from Tru Flo I used to use. I had converted this to a fuge, but have removed it and inserted a real fuge. I am wondering if I should be running that alongside the fuge or not. <<The Wet/Dry?? No, not really>> I do dose with Purple Up, Iodine, Trace Elements, Calcium and Alkalinity steps 1 and 2. <<You don't mention hard corals, do you "need" to be dosing calc and Alk? Stop doing iodine and purple up. Purple up is a complete waste of money as all you need for good coralline algae growth is light, calc and mag. With these apparent, additives will not be required. Trace elements / iodine should not really be needed as these are replenished via your water changes. Does an iodine test show that your suffering from a deficiency?>> I have built a Kalk drip and may use that, but am a bit afraid it would drop the alkalinity without my ability to re-establish that...how would I go about doing that? <<As above, do your tests stipulate that you need to use this? if they do not, then don't use, no need. Incorrect setup of the drip can lead to problems, please do read more here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm >> I feed every 3 days, except eel, who I feed every day or every 2 days so he won't eat my shrimps. <<Sounds fine>> The biggest question is do I run dual overflows and run the wet/dry on one side with a skimmer in that alongside the Aquafuge Pro Large, or do I just run the refugium? <<I would just run the fuge, as i really don't feel that wet/dry filters have any place on a marine aquarium as i feel the maintenance aspect is very high. If anything, convert it in a sump or add as another refugium>> What do you guys suggest? <<Thanks for the questions, i hope this helps. A Nixon>> Saltwater 55g FOWLR low maintenance, 5/16/08 Good day gentleman, <and ladies> first I would like to say great site just stumbled across it. I'm ready to set up my1st glass s.w 55ga FOWLR. Before reading your site I have bought a magnum 350 canister filter, ac 70 powerhead, Hagen Glo t5 ho 36in dual light with 2x39w marine bulbs, a Marineland stealth 200 heater, a Prizm hang on skimmer, <Has a less than optimal reputation.> and two 20pd of bags bio-activ live aragonite reef sand also a 10g tank that I was going to try and make a wet dry system and a 375gph Pondmaster pump for return. Now my question is I only have a small room under the tank, can I avoid a wet dry sump system if I use appropriate amount of live rock in tank or can I use a Eheim 2239 wet dry canister and avoid having to buy a overflow box bioballs etc. <Yes to both.> I'm worried that the space will not hold a wet dry tank system without overflowing being that only 10 gallon just fits under their I still have time to return anything does this sound like a good setup or should I change any thing <Sounds fine, many/most tanks are run without a sump system, where everything is either in-tank or of the hang-on-back variety. In future queries please use proper grammar and spelling, we need to correct this so that the information is easily accessible to readers and search engines. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/WWMAdminSubWebIndex/question_page.htm >
100 Gallon Filtration 2/10/08 I have had a 55 g marine tank for two years now and am ready for an upgrade. I will make this question simple, as I have most of the basics down. <OK> Would a live rock, deep aragonite sand bed, protein skimmer, and canister filter be sufficient filtration? <Yes it would be sufficient.> I plan on no overflow or sump. This will be fish only with the live rock. Probably clown trigger and other aggressive fish. <100 gallons is pushing the lower limits on system size for this fish. They get very large and territorial.> Aqua c hang on, with canister filter under tank. <Do be sure to clean the canister frequently.> How many pounds of rock would I need and can I get away without the sump? <You can certainly have a tank without a sump. Keep in mind you will need to stock this tank, and any other, at a reasonable (not overcrowded) bioload. As for live rock I would start with 65-75 lbs or so and see how you like the look. You can always add more.> Thanks, your site is great for info. <Welcome, please read through the links and related FAQ's below for more information, Scott V.> http://wetwebmedia.com/clntrigsys.htm http://wetwebmedia.com/lrselfaqs.htm Filter/Setup Questions 02/05/2008 Hello Bob & Crew, <<Hello, Andrew today>> I sent a couple of e-mails a couple of days ago but fear they may have gotten lost in the great beyond. If this is a duplicate of a message that is already in your queue to be answered I apologize. <<No apology needed>> I have a filtration question about a 125 gallon aquarium I am purchasing. I am going to add 100 lbs of live sand (brand new, I am not using the crushed coral in my current 56 gal tank), my existing 20-25 lbs of live rock from my current 56gal, along with another 25 lbs (for starters) of live rock I am purchasing when I buy the tank. I also have a Coralife 125gal skimmer that works fantastically in my 56 (knock on wood). <<Sounds good>> My LFS suggested (strongly) going with a wet/dry filter with the standard blue bio-balls. <<Strongly eh???>> I am not so sure. So I wanted your opinion on if I were to run two Aquaclear 110's and my current Aquaclear 70, along with the protein skimmer, the 100lbs of LS, and 50 or so lbs (for now) of LR, would that be sufficient to have a healthy setup? I really don't want to go with the wet/dry and especially the bio balls (after reading here on WWM) unless its an outright necessity for the health of the tank. Would this setup give me adequate mechanical filtration, bio filtration, and water movement for this tank? <<The amount of filtration mentioned should be fine, as you are already half way there with the live rock. I would stick to just the 2 Aquaclear 110's, leave off the Aquaclear 70..The 110's are rated at 110g's each, so, that's ok. Flow wise, I would not rely on these to provide the right amount of flow. I would be adding some powerheads to create the flow for you>> Also a quick question, if I may, on cycling the new tank. My LFS also said I "Have" to add bio-Spira to the new tank when I set it up in order to have the tank cycle in a short time frame. I can't support the two tanks (from a space perspective) for more than 2 weeks or so. With adding all of the LS, along with the LR and I also plan to add Hagen cycle which I already have a supply of, do I really "need" the bio-Spira to cycle in such a short time? <<A common question really. How to get a fast cycle. Unfortunately, a cycle should not be rushed, its natures way of laying the building blocks of the aquarium. My advise if you want a "quicker" route to cycling, if it cant be left alone, is to use fully cured live rock, and use pure ammonia as the ammonia source to kick start the cycle. Hopefully, the levels of bacteria already present on the Fully cured live rock will give the cycle a quicker turn around>> Thank you again for such a great site and such helpful information. It is very much appreciated. Mike P. <<Thanks for the questions, hope it helps. A Nixon>> |
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