FAQs about Marine Macro-Algae
Culture
Related Articles: Marine Algae, Algae Can Be Your
Friend, Refugiums, Avoiding Algae Problems
in Marine System, Algae Control, Marine Maintenance,
Nutrient Control and Export,
Marine Scavengers, Snails, Hermit
Crabs, Mithrax/Emerald
Green Crabs, Sea Urchins, Blennies, Algae
Filters, Ctenochaetus/Bristle Mouth
Tangs, Zebrasoma/Sailfin Tangs,
Skimmers, Skimmer Selection, Marine Algae, Coralline Algae, Green Algae, Brown
Algae, Blue-Green
"Algae"/(Cyanobacteria), Diatoms, Brown
Algae,
Related FAQs: Marine (Macro) Algae 1,
Marine (Macro) Algae
2, Marine (Macro) Algae 3,
Marine (Macro) Algae 4, Marine (Macro) Algae 5, Rationale, Identification, Selection/Compatibility/Control,
Systems, Lighting, Nutrition, Disease/Pests/Predators, Algae Use in Refugiums, Coralline Algae: Use in Marine
Aquariums, Marine Algae ID
1, Marine Algae ID 2, Marine Algae Control FAQs II, Marine Algaecide Use, Nutrient Limitation, Marine Algae Eaters, Culturing Macro-Algae; Controlling: BGA/Cyano, Red/Encrusting Algae, Green Algae, Brown/Diatom Algae,
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Growing macro algae 9/22/18
Hello there.
<Cory>
I was hoping I could ask for some advice. I have had a love for macro
algae for some time now. And a few months ago i set up a tank to grow
macro algae. The intention is it just to be for maximising growth of the
macro to sell to pay for my reef tank and grow out some large plants to
put in a future big seahorse tank.
<Okay; did take courses on algal culture in college, and my MACNA pitch
this mo. was on the economics or business side of mariculture, including
macrophytes. Oh, and visited places that do such culture for human food
as well as ornamental aquatics.>
It is 250 litres and not very tall so its a lot of area. I have 3
powerheads producing a good amount of flow. Sand substrate. I have two
surface skimmers to maximise gas exchange on the surface. I have several
macro but am looking at doubling it.
<Mmm; better to just grow one variety per system. Often they produce
chemicals that interfere w/ the growth of competitors>
And two Kessil h380 lights (cost a fortune). I feed them nutrients every
day and they are growing ok but I do get a lot of. micro algae growth on
the macro although it seems to be getting better as the macro gets
bigger. I am monitoring the parameters and have a target range I found
for a macro tank.
I have lots of Cerith snails and an algae blenny and they are the only
livestock.
I wanted to ask what you thought about a set up like this. Am I missing
something?
<Mmm; mention of supplement and monitoring processes. You'll want to
have high, consistent alkalinity and alkaline earth content...>
I'm going to be adding a calcium reactor at some point.
<This will help w/ the above; and I'd look into the use of a
comprehensive fertilizer as you state that you're shooting to "maximise"
growth here>
I'm unsure whether I should add a canister filter I've done a lot of
research but can figure out what the consensus is I added copepods and
amphipods but my.surface.skimmer seems to have at least killed the
amphipods.
<Ahh>
I also don't know if there are any other inverts I can add that wouldn't
eat the macro and be beneficial to the tank.
Thanks in advance
<I can't encourage you enough to visit a large college library, ask a
reference librarian to help you search for current, pertinent
literature. I have older, copied... as well as standard print works on
algae, culture. You will benefit, save a good deal of time, effort,
money by gaining insights by others who have done this work already. Bob
Fenner>
Re: Growing macro algae 9/22/18
Hi Bob. Thank you for your advice I will get down to a library
<Ah, good Cory. This is THE single best use of your time here; invested
in
seeking out the best available, most appropriate technology. Bob Fenner>
Chaetomorpha Growth…Or Lack Of… - 09/22/17
The subject title will make you go noooooooo,
<<Noooooooooo!>>
but I've got a question I cannot find an answer to.
<<Okay>>
Ever since I've grown Chaeto, I've been successful in keeping it. Until
recently. Nothing has changed, the available nutrients are still there,
the red/blue light is still there and adequate flow is still there. I
had my crop die over a period of a month, just disintegrated. I replaced
it with another healthy handful which has grown slightly (nowhere near
as fast as before), but is also disintegrating now. The question is, in
your knowledge does Chaeto require anything other than the
aforementioned, which it may be lacking? I have a flourishing sps system
with close to ideal parameters.
<<The alga needs pretty much everything your SPS need…including adequate
water flow. Some say the Chaetomorpha needs enough water flow to make it
“tumble” but I have never found that to really be necessary. I keep
Chaetomorpha in a 55g RDP refugium with a flow-through rate of about 450
GPH which has proven sufficient for more than a decade. Much of the
water is directed to ‘flow through’ the alga, but it certainly does not
tumble. If flow is not an issue, double-check water parameters. Another
possibility is something is either attacking the alga (chemical attack),
or maybe it is simply being outcompeted by the system/your other
filtration.>>
As the coral have grown larger year on year, is it possible they are
consuming what may have been previously available for the Chaeto?
<<Indeed…you may no longer need the Chaetomorpha, though I like it not
only for its filtration properties but also as a habitat and nursery for
the myriad of critters it hosts.>>
Kind regards,
Craig
<<And to you…EricR>>
Chaetomorpha in wet-dry setup? Emersed?
10/31/11
Hello
<Charles>
There might be some advantages to growing Chaetomorpha in one of those
old wet-dry filters with a drip plate. I think they would do fine in a
moist environment rather than being fully submerged;
<Mmm, think it has to be submersed>
the exposure to CO2 might help growth, and generally prevent fouling
and make it easier to harvest. This would also work kind of like a
degassing tower, with improved pH stability, especially if you were
using a very large mass as the primary filtration. Having the water run
over the algae rather than flowing through it, probably improves
contact, and prevents fouling areas as the algae grows.
On a large recirculating aquaculture system for sensitive organisms, it
might work better than a bacterial system such as beads.
I'm surprised that there are no references to this idea. Do you
know if anyone has tried it?.
<I do not; but you're welcome to give it a go>
Charles Matthews
<Bob Fenner>
Sharing Halimeda
8/4/11
Hello friends!
Just a quick question today:
I've got a huge amount of Halimeda exploding in my tank (yeah, in
the display, I don't have a sump, and I kind of like the way it
looks). I have to cut it back weekly. I've let it grow out a bit,
though as I'm thinking of taking some to offer at my local reef
club. So I'm wondering how best to move it? Can a simple cutting
"take root" (or whatever they do), or should I pull bits out
from the rock?
<Both can work... some times becomes quite invasive...>
Then obviously transport in a bag in water, but what would the
recipient do with it? Just add it to their tank or sump, or do they
have to attach it somehow?
<Can attach with a bit of epoxy, reef "glue", or just bury
in substrate, place in cracks in the rock>
Many thanks,
Chris
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Display Tank Macro-Algae and Sand Types --
09/30/10
Hello Crew,
<<Hello Jeremy>>
I was going to get a little bit of a step up and add some macro algae
to my display tank since I have plenty of growth in my fuge.
<<Mmm, okay'¦ Though I find that most species suited to
nutrient export via rapid growth in a refugium are often problematic in
a display for just that reason>>
Here are some things I was wondering about I couldn't find on the
site or may have missed it. First, I don't have normal real sand in
my DT; it is a non-buffering Tahitian Moon Reef and Marine
Substrate.
<<Okay>>
Can the macro algae grow off of this "fake sand" or does it
require nutrients from real sand?
<<The alga will pull nutrients from the water column -- this
non-carbonaceous sand; while not ideal for a marine system in my
opinion, will still serve fine as a substrate for the
macro-alga>>
Second, if the nutrients are used by the plants which are then eaten by
fish do they stay in the water negating their main purpose of filtering
said nutrients out of the water?
<<Some will be used/sequestered by the fishes but yes, much will
reenter the system as waste. To make the most of the 'filtering
capacity' of the macro-alga you will have to harvest it from the
display as you do from the refugium>>
I think getting some fauna in the display would make a more natural
environment as well as add some color to the DT.
<<No argument'¦ But do be aware the alga competes for
space on the reef like all the other living organisms -- aside from
shading issues, it can/will exude chemicals (compounded in a closed
system) to limit growth or even kill sessile invertebrates>>
Have you ever done anything like this?
<<Mmm, yes'¦ I introduced Caulerpa mexicana to a reef
system once -- was a mistake as it overgrew everything in short
order'¦the amphipods sure loved it though [grin]>>
I know people have but I haven't had much luck finding articles or
pictures about it. I'm guessing because a lot of macro algae is
invasive and aggressive for those who can't keep up with trimming
and harvesting.
<<Indeed'¦ I have seen instances where pretty much
'daily' intervention is required>>
Look forward to your input.
Jeremy
<<Happy to share'¦ EricR>>
Algae Growth?/Growing Algae 5/6/10
Hi Crew,
<Hello Charley>
I have maybe an odd question, but how do I increase algal growth in my
tank?
<Not necessary to do so, the freeze dried seaweed will provide this.
Do consider a refugium for culturing algae, it will also improve water
quality. Do read here.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/refugium.htm>
My Yellow Tang is always looking for food on my live rock, but never,
ever eats any. She finds so little vegetable matter that I have to add
in two seaweed clips a day just for her.
<And a practical way to supply this food source.>
With the supplemented brine shrimp
<Not a very nutritious food.>
and seaweed she looks "pretty" healthy, but what's life
with given food all
day, right?
<Do read here. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/yellowtang.htm>
Foraging seems so essential to their life, and I plan on adding a dwarf
angel (flame or potter's, love the coloration of potter's but
love the spunk on flame) soon.
<The Potter's Angel is not easily kept, better off with the
Flame.>
I have 3 turbo snails and 7 other snails (prolly Astraea) for my 55g
(moving in a month, getting a 125), so I don't think that's
enough snails to take all the algae.
<I would hold off adding more snails in the 125, the tank will be
too new and food will be scarce.>
Should I periodically turn off my sump and my protein skimmer?
<No, and for what reason?>
Oh I have a coral in the tank so the lights are power compacts, and I
DO see coralline algal growth, so the rocks should be live...
<Not necessarily, coralline algae will grow on glass and I've
never heard the term "live glass".
Thanks for everything!
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Sincerely,
Charley Teng
Growing Macro Algae & A Rust Problem
3/23/09
Thanks for your help in the past.
<You're welcome and hello Sean.>
I have a few more questions. My setup is as follows: 220g display tank,
35g acrylic refugium, 25g acrylic sump, 64g Rubbermaid overflow sump,
Aqua-C EV240 skimmer, polyfilter, 300lbs LR.
<Wowsie.>
I recently got some Gracilaria to grow in my acrylic sump as a macro
algae filter and as a source of food for my tangs. My problem is in
trying to keep it contained in the sump. Water exits the Gracilaria
compartment by flowing over a baffle into a second compartment for the
skimmer and poly filter. The Gracilaria wants to flow over the baffle
if I let it tumble freely. I tried using a sponge to keep the
Gracilaria from going over the baffle, but then much of it got caught
on the sponge. So I tried using a light duty power head to constantly
blow the Gracilaria off the sponge, but then the Gracilaria got pulled
into the powerhead. For now, I have it sitting in a floating colander
in the sump, but that prevents it from tumbling and prevents light from
reaching most of it. What do you recommend to keep it in the sump while
letting it tumble freely? Also, is a 24w (6700k) daylight compact
fluorescent light about the right amount of light for the Gracilaria in
this setup? (The Gracilaria compartment is about 12g.)
<I think I'd try cementing four PVC legs to a piece of white
plastic eggcrate. Cut the legs so the eggcrate would be just below the
baffle. If the eggcrate tends to float, a small piece of live rock will
keep it down.>
I also got some Ulva for my refugium to (1) provide a breeding place
for 'pods, (2) serve as an additional macro algae filter and (3)
provide another source of food for my tangs. It's a 35g acrylic
refugium, but the refugium compartment is 22" x 14" and the
water level is 8" high.
It also contains LR rubble and a mixture of sand and mud. Is a 13w
(6700k) daylight compact fluorescent light about the right amount of
light for the Ulva in this setup?
<I'd say a little on the weak side with the length of the
refugium. Adding another light and spacing out equally should give you
plenty of light.>
The fuge and the acrylic sump are side-by-side, and I am running the
lights for both on the same 12-hour cycle, opposite of the display
tank. Also, is it correct to let the Ulva spread out over much of the
water in the fuge, rather than being clumped in a ball or tumbling?
<Ulva lactuca (Sea Lettuce) normally shoots out a holdfast and if
live rock rubble is present, it should attach as long as the water flow
isn't too harsh.
If you prefer just using the sand bed with no rubble, I'd let the
Ulva do what it wants.>
Water overflows from my display tank and is sent either to the acrylic
sump or to the refugium -- so that both the Gracilaria and the Ulva get
nutrient rich water -- and then flows into the overflow sump for return
to the display. I have the Gracilaria and the Ulva separated so that
they don't compete with each other.
<As long as they are in the same water system, there can/will be
competition for nutrients.>
The display tank overflow is rated at up to 1400 gph total. I have
about 1/4 of the display tank overflow water going through the refugium
and about 3/4 through the sump. I have the lower flow in the refugium
to provide a peaceful breeding ground for various critters and to keep
the sand/mud from getting stirred up too much. Does the flow split
sound appropriate for the Gracilaria and the Ulva? It sounds like the
flow might be too much for the fuge, but it seems fairly peaceful in
there.
<I'd leave as is.>
As a side note, I am thinking about adding a DSB in the sump
compartment with the Gracilaria. My real concern there is making sure
that the flow doesn't create a sand storm while letting the
Gracilaria tumble.
<I wouldn't add a DSB, with the AquaC skimmer and refugium, you
should be fine.>
What's your opinion on the carbon debate? Given the two macro
algaes, the poly filter and the skimmer, is there much value in using
carbon in this setup?
<Likely not, as long as the nutrients are being exported faster than
they are imported. Keep an eye on the nitrate level.>
On another issue, I recently had a custom canopy built for my tank.
Every morning, there is so much moisture that the hinges are rusting,
and I'm concerned that the rust will drip into the water and kill
my fish. It's an island display, so all four sides are
enclosed.
Unfortunately, I think that switching the hinges may be an expensive
option (based on the way it's constructed, it may require some
major re-work), and I'm not sure that any hinge would resist that
much moisture anyway. As an alternative, do you think that installing a
fan and a vent would take out enough moisture to solve the problem?
<I think so, and I would leave the fan run about 30 minutes after
the lights go off.>
Lastly, I was having a major problem with micro bubbles due to all the
turbulence in my sump/refugium setup (which is in the basement below
the tank). I found a lot of suggestions in your FAQs that helped me to
eliminate most of them; however, I still get a small amount. Do I need
to eliminate micro bubbles completely, or is a small amount OK?
<What is a small amount, are they near the surface? Back in my early
years in this hobby when horses were your ride (just kidding), there
were no sumps, refugiums, and wet/dries. Biological filtration was
carried out with undergravel filters employing one or more one inch
lift tubes with limewood airstones powered by a Silent Giant air pump.
We had tons of micro bubbles at the surface but they did not cause any
harm to the inhabitants, just created a mess.>
Thanks again.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Sean
Re: Growing Macro Algae & A Rust Problem
3/24/09
Thanks for the fast and VERY helpful reply!
<You're welcome.>
Two quick follow-ups:
You suggested doubling the light for the Ulva refugium (from 13w to
26w). Is 24w sufficient for the Gracilaria sump, or should I increase
that too?
<Depends on how far the light will be from the surface of the water
and the water depth of the sump. Makes it difficult to answer without
seeing your set-up. If it has good growth now, you should be
fine.>
Regarding the micro bubbles, it's hard to quantify how many there
are. Before I made adjustments, it was like a swarm. Now it's
just some tiny, lazy bubbles floating around spaced fairly well apart.
The bubbles are so tiny that they look more like dust particles than
bubbles. They are throughout the tank water (at least in the top half
of the tank). There are no bubbles sitting on the surface of the
water. Should I be concerned?
<I don't like bubbles in the tank for aesthetic reasons, if
you're OK with that, then no cause for concern.>
Thanks again for the info, and for all the great WWM FAQs and articles
that have provided wonderful guidance to me as I dive deeper into this
hobby (and my wallet!).
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Sean
Three questions... Reef maint. f'
3/8/09 Will split these questions up so they can be
posted where you guys want. Thanks to you guys who have brought
the joy to a hobby that can be very confusing!! <Welcome>
First, what might cause Chaetomorpha to decline in a sump? (Was
flourishing for the six months prior to this). The only things
that I can think of is I added more flow directly at the
"ball". Also, I've seen a boom in what a internet
pic identified as Munnid isopods. No changes to chemistry or
lighting. My Chaeto has withdrawn to about half the size is was
two months ago and is a darker green instead of the bright, light
green it used to be. <Mostly nutrient limitation... other
water quality issue/s... sometimes light quality diminishing...
or predation as you speculate... On diverse occasions, seemingly
"nothing"... perhaps some internal/genetic
deterioration after so much metabolizing> Secondly, I have a
cleaner that I recently received from a guy who owned it for
three years. It eats great. My question is that I've recently
seen him "pick" at other fish in the tank (as is
natural). Does this indicate a parasitic issue? <No, not
necessarily... what sort/species of "cleaner?"... Some
are more obligate...> Does this indicate an outbreak or just a
natural habit that doesn't indicate a serious issue for my
tank? In other words, do I need to panic and start
quarantining/treating fish? (Fish act fine) <... is this a
Labroides? See WWM re> Lastly, my coralline seems to be
disappearing in patches (used to be covered). It's not
bleaching, it's just not there (I've attached a pic). It
looks as if something has been eating it. Which of my
fish/invertebrates may be eating the coralline off my rocks?
Cleaner shrimps, ocellaris clowns, cleaner wrasse, yellow wrasse,
neon gobies, Nassarius snails (didn't figure it could be any
of these), scopas tang, coral beauty, Nerite snails. Any ideas?
<The same as for the Chaetomorpha above. Read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/corlinedisfaqs.htm and the linked files
above> I've tried to research everything before I ever
bother you guys (know that you get lots of email), but
haven't found these answers. Thanks for all your work and the
sharing of your knowledge!! Scott <Again, glad to share. Bob
Fenner>
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Algae Queries For my sixth year Advanced Biology higher
project I have decided to do Algae growth and the factors
effecting it's growth. I realize I will have to grow it
in the laboratory and then will immobilize it into jelly beads, using a
solution to measure the uptake of carbon dioxide. I would be grateful
for any advice on a better experiment or any changes I can make to mine
to add to the reliability of results etc. (keeping in mind it is a
school experiment, so nothing too advanced or complicated.) thank
you very much, I would be really pleased if you could get
back to me with some feedback, Susannah Bennett >>>Hello
Susannah, At the most basic level, algae needs light and a nitrogen
source, (nutrients) and or a phosphate source to grow. So, you could
vary the amount of nutrients and light in different cultures. One has
no light, but high nutrients, one has tons of light, but no nutrients,
one with high light and high nutrients, med light and high nutrients,
etc, etc, on and on. :) Same with phosphates depending on how
complicated you want to make this. You can measure the nutrients in the
water, and phosphates with test kits. I would use a macro
algae such as Caulerpa, and simply weigh it, rather than messing with
solutions and jelly beads, but that's just me. :)Seems like that is
needlessly complicating things. Regards Jim<<<
Chaetomorpha question 11/10/04 In Today's Q/A there was
mention of Chaetomorpha and to allow it to roll around. Is this a part
of the requirements for successful growth of this
plant? <Chaetomorpha does not root and does best when it
is not allowed to simply lay on the bottom of the tank, but it is very
forgiving. I have successfully grown it without keeping it
suspended. IME, the most important thing is to thin it often
and not allow it to become too dense. HTH. Adam Growing
Porphyra perforata and Kappaphycus alvarezii (Opening A Sushi Bar?) -
06/10/05 I am trying to grow two types of Red algae (Porphyra
perforata and Kappaphycus alvarezii) in 20 gallon fish
tanks. I have synthetic seawater (Ricca chemical) and
Instant Ocean mix. I also have a hydrometer, floating type
for specific gravity determinations. I am using a chiller at 25C/77F
for temperature control with light source and air circulation provided
within a Conviron growth chamber. Rio pump 2500 for
circulation through the chiller, fitted with a nylon filter over
intake. The pH is maintained at 8.0. Do I need to
have rocks or other means of attachment for growth of the two species
listed? I want to culture the macro algae, which was shipped
on wet ice, but am having problems getting it to grow in the 20 gallon
tanks...any suggestions would be helpful. I want to ONLY
grow the algae, no fish involved. <<Well Dennis, my first
suggestion would be to separate the two species if they aren't all
ready to eliminate energy loss due to competition (chemical
aggression). Next...the P. perforata; according to my
research, is a northern Pacific algae...likely the water temp should be
in the 68-72 degree range for it to prosper...the K. alvarezii; again,
according to my research, is a tropical algae...bumping its water temp
to 79-80 degrees may increase growth. Based on this you may
need to operate two systems, or specialize in one species of
algae. As for rocks, both algae are found
attached/overgrowing a substrate/other sessile organisms, so it
probably couldn't hurt to add a few, though I don't know about
the algae's ability to reattach. You might find that
obtaining specimens still attached to a substrate will be more suitable
for propagation. Providing intense lighting, increasing
water flow, and supplementing iodine/iron may prove beneficial as
well.>> Thank you, Dennis O'Neill <<Regards, Eric
R.>>
Seaweed culture 8/31/05 Bob I was going thru ORA's
website on how they culture seaweeds. What do they mean when they say
they use "An air-generated method of tumbling the algae in large
vats is employed to culture them." <Air bubbles, from
pressurized air, are released in a circular (torus) fashion on the
bottom of circular tanks, lifting water and the algae and turning it
"donut fashion" in the water... gives all exposure to light,
moves nutrients about. BobF> http://www.orafarm.com/algae.html regards Perry
Hawaiian Ogo... Lolo for Ogo! Aloha WWM Crew, <Eh Howzit
Jeff, Scott F. with you (one haole with one Big Island girl)> Your
web site is DA KINE (the best). I can't thank you guys enough for
the great service you provide. I live on the island of Oahu and have a
55 FO tank. I have a question about Hawaiian Ogo (seaweed). I noticed
that the local markets have fresh Ogo bagged for consumption. I was
wondering if you could place that Ogo in your sump or main display.
<If you got the Ogo already refrigerated, chances are it will not
grow in your sump or aquarium. If it's fresh, meaning you
"jus' wen pick em from da ocean water," then, the Ogo
will probably survive and grow. I have had success growing fresh Ogo in
a 10 gallon aquarium with an airstone. Please note that Ogo (Gracilaria
parvispora) needs a lot of light and should be kept in suspension in
order to grow at its best> Moreover, would it be okay to place
shoreline rocks from the North Shore into my tank without worrying
about pollution and other negative consequences. Thanks for all your
help. <Jeff, are you referring to coral rubble or lava rock? If
it's coral rubble, it may be okay after curing. If it's lava
rock, it may not work in a closed system, because of the possibility
that it could release lots of compounds that will induce microalgae
growth. Also, you might want to check with local authorities to see if
it's legal to collect rock.> Jeff <Malama Pono and A hui hou!
Scott F.>
Macroalgae In The Mix Hi My water parameters are calcium 350,
kH 7.4 and alkalinity 2.63. <KH and alkalinity are a bit on the low
side, but well within acceptable parameters> The iodine is
saturating the water through adding too much. <Hmm- definitely
continue regular water changes and discontinue the iodine dosing- the
level should fall to a "normal" concentration> The
Penicillus seaweed is still white looking and the Ophiocoma seem to be
shedding segments from the tips of their arms and to be losing bristles
and turning white in patches along the arms. One brittle star seems to
have lost most of his arms. <Not sure what could be causing the
brittle star to lose arm segments...I'd keep shooting for the
highest possible water quality through aggressive skimming and water
changes> I cleared out most of the racemosa and the prolifera
isn't a problem but how do I attach cuttings of taxifolia to rocks?
I know a local fish shop takes seaweed cuttings but the taxifolia is
harder to attach. <If you want to keep working with this species,
you might want to try attaching it with some cable twist ties gently
pressed near the runners (not too tight-you just don't want it to
blow away in the current) around some small chunks of live rock.
I've done that with Halimeda and even Gracilaria with decent
results. Once the algae puts down it's runners, you can cut away
the twist ties. It's not too attractive, but you'll only need
to do this for a few days, or until the runners attach. Good luck!
Regards, Scott F>
Phycology Culture Text/Manuals? Hi Bob, Been
catching up on reefkeepers and saw you mention a phycology culture
course you had to take way back when. Are there any texts
available for this subject (and can you recommend any you might
know about) and would they be applicable to the types of algae
available to the hobby. <Yes to both... several... look at the
bibliographies to the algae pieces posted on the WWM site,
www.wetwebmedia.com> Specifically, I've tried some of the
Rhodophyta that occasionally crop up (pun intended!) in the LFS
but have never had much luck. I haven't been able to find anyone
who knows (or will confess to know) much about the culture of
tropical macroalgae. As you may know I was trying to find
someone to speak on that topic for WMC but even Jim Wolfe, who
did his thesis (or was it dissertation?) on one of our local
macroalgae punted at that suggestion. Dave Sheehy <I'll do
so if you'd like... Bob Fenner, pls note/use new e-mail
addr.>