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Sand Bed/ moving sand? Hey Bob, <<Not Bob, but JasonC
doing a cameo - how are you?>> (Or whoever might be answering for
him). Glad you have somebody to assist you now. I've also gotten a
kick out of all your exploits, real or imagined. <<is some funny
stuff, indeed.>> :-) Anyway, my condo is now under contract! So I
will be closer! <<good stuff>> This is a threat and a
promise. :-) <<oh?>> Anyway some questions about the sand
bed. I went over your answers to me in JULY. And I still have
questions. What a shock! :-) Remember this is a LR and dry goods move
only-- much to Jason's disappointment. :-) <<you know
it.>> I am not moving anything by car, so this all would be in a
box on the van or not at all. I am thinking I will move the LR and buy
some more and add to it to give it new life. But what about the sand? I
maybe have a 1/2 inch to 1 inch sort of medium fine aragonite. Will
wetting it and putting it in an insulated box maybe inside a plastic
bag retain any useful life? <<I think so, yes - is how it is
shipped, stored.>> Also I have thought about a DSB but gosh even
3 inches is high on a 40 gal!! I think Anthony says that between 1-2
inches or so is actually dangerous, not a good thing. I was thinking of
2 inches, but maybe not. (I guess that isn't exactly deep-- but
it's sort of relative.) I realize that some folk will put 3-4
inches on a forty but it cuts down on LR space, water space, and so on.
<<what is the object of this exercise? Just thinking the most
common use of the DSB [Deep Sand Bed] is for natural nitrate
reduction.>> Your friend, --des/Jane <<And yours as well.
Cheers, J -- >> Re: moving question Thanks for the good news! I was so afraid I'd lose everything in the move.. the oxygen isn't really available, but I am going to move the system water in containers so that everything's good to go when I arrive back home. I'll try and take a 1-2 gallon jug of system water to put over the trickle plate in my wet/dry every few hours or so. Temp shouldn't be that big of a deal if the fish are kept in the car with me, with my AC set to say, 76 degrees? Thanks again, any other tips/suggestions will be gladly taken :) Bill H (of waffle eating fame) :p Moving Question Hello, <Salute, Bill H. of waffle eating
fame. Anthony Calfo here...yep, you got the unstable one of the three
again> I've read the moving FAQ's and beyond, but want to
ask your personal opinion on moving my aquariums. <sure... I
have an opinion about everything. I am a conspiracy theorist> I have
a 75g and a 58g system, but not much stock. Moving the equipment is not
a problem, my question of course, pertains to livestock. How viable
would it be to bag a white ribbon eel, scopas tang, coral banded
shrimp, some peppermint shrimps, and a ton of crabs/snails for a 18
hour drive? <easy...the are in small shipping bags on import for
longer> What's your best advice for attempting this? <with
unlimited money... Coleman makes a travel cooler with heat/cool
controls for under $100. But truthfully not necessary. Bag animals in
clear, undisturbed water... large/low bags filled with 1/3 water and
2/3 air. Oxygen from a aquarium or dive shop would be nice to fill bags
but again not necessary. Your main goal will be temperature control...
use heat or ice packs if necessary> Should I take all of the system
water from say.. the 58g with me, in containers, to re-setup the system
upon arrival in the new home for the aquarium? <wow... would be
nice, but a lot of work> is there anything that I should do to
preserve the bacteria in my wet/dry? <keep it moist! covered with a
damp cloth, or sealed in a bag and periodically splash water on your
media during travel. Have a battery operated airpump on hand for
emergency aeration. Keep fish dark (low O2 consumption) and undisturbed
as long as possible during trip. Anthony> System in Storage Hi, I will be leaving my 200g saltwater tank standing for 6 months as i am moving house for a while. Do you think it is possible to start again with new water after i have left the tank dry for such a long time or will i need to change the bio balls or whole filter system? <Do be sure to rinse/clean everything thoroughly. Especially all of the pumps and impellors. You have probably seen the mulm that develops around the impellors and inside the tubing. When this stuff dries, it becomes very hard and can/will ruin your pumps. It would not be a bad idea to run them in some vinegar before packing away to remove any calcium deposits, too. -Steven Pro> Thanks, Craig Aquarium Transfer Hello Bob, I just purchased a 125 Gallon tank to replace my 72 gallon tank. The 72 gallon is a saltwater tank and has the following... Equipment: Overflow to AMiracle Wet Dry sump, Berlin Hang On Protein Skimmer, 2 Power heads, 90 lbs of Live Rock, some Caulerpa plants, live substrate crushed coral. Fish: med. Blueface Angel, Yellow Tang, large Blenny & 2 striped Damsels. <Bet you they appreciate the new larger digs> How do I perform a complete migration without doing any harm to the fish and biological system? Is there a foolproof procedure somewhere at WetWebMedia? <Mmm, sort of like the "moving aquariums" pitch: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/movingaq.htm and associated FAQs.> I worry about temperature, water quality, how to transfer the fish. <Not much to this... taken a step at a time, systematically... draining water into large container, using airstone there, moving livestock... transferring substrate (I'd put over new) and rock into new tank... moving livestock, topping off with pre-made, stored water...> Should I use a new fresh crushed coral or sand as a substrate in the 125? <Could be either depending on the look, types of livestock you intend. Bob Fenner> Shipping Lenore's puffers Hi Bob -- I volunteered to take
Lenore's new puffers. The general plan is to ship everything needed
to Lenore's uncle, with instructions and $$ to cover costs of
shipping the fish here. Des suggested I email you, too. Here's what
I posted in the Zo's B&G forum: I'm looking at having
brackish puffers shipped from the Bay area to the Chicago area. I plan
on using FedEx, with as early a delivery time as I can afford. How
should the fish be packed? I was figuring several nested bags apiece,
with oxygen in the bags, and the bags closed with rubber bands. Then
the bags and a heat pack would go in a fish-shipping box (which I
have). Other things I'm considering: - Blue Holdex, which is
supposed to add extra oxygen to the water - AmQuel, to keep the ammonia
from building up - Oxygen rock, which is sold for those micro-aquariums
and is supposed to add oxygen to the water What would I use for a heat
pack? Other suggestions, anyone?? Thanks, Ananda <Which part of
California is this? I would have folks in the retail end pack all up
for shipping. Bob Fenner> Tank move Hi, Bob, I chatted a bit with Jason about this but I thought I'd run this by you as well. I need to replace my cracked 210G tank. I've been thinking of doing a staged restocking of the tank but wanted to know if you thought the extra trouble was necessary. Here's the current plan to date: Day one: 1) remove select fish and corals to my 45G tank for holding for 1-4 months (until the new tank is stable) 2) return some corals and fish to the LFS (chance to tweak my stock) 3) hold my anemones and some SPS at my LFS for 1-3 months until new tank is stable 4) hold most of my LR and much of my water (filtered) in some new 110G livestock water troughs (with heaters and powerheads for circulation). 5) Mix up about 50-80G in the new tank with some new substrate and some old substrate 6) Let the new tank settle over night with powerhead and heater in it Day two: 7) Replace LR, hardy corals (leathers, Zoanthids, mushrooms) and water in tank using interlocking triangles as per one of your aquascapes in your book 1-4 months later, after things seem stable 8) Add stock held at LFS (anemones, some SPS) 1-2 months after that: 9) Restore fish and remaining corals from 45G to main tank Several questions: Do you think it makes much of a difference to spread it out so much? Or do you think I could get away with holding some the fish in the 45G and putting all the anemones and corals back in immediately? <I would "stretch it out" as you state in your plan> I'm planning on largely preserving the water and some of the substrate (trying to avoid any anaerobic sections). <I'd sacrifice half the water easily in vacuuming the substrate to assure a good deal of the interstitial "gunk" was removed> If I remove the fish initially, I've lowered the bio-load so hopefully the new tank can keep up even with less bacteria in the substrate, etc. It would be nice to avoid steps 3 & 8. On the other hand, I'd like to minimize die off in the process. <Mmm, I'd include steps 3,8> I've moved tanks before and the water gets pretty cloudy in the process. I was planning on buying a canister filter with floss or diatomaceous media to clear up the water. Any thoughts on that? Is diatomaceous better? I've never used either type previously. <A diatomaceous filter... rental even is a plus... ask your LFS if they have one they'll let you borrow... pack it with D.E. and activated carbon powderized> On the one hand, new tank setups seem a bit delicate at first. On the other hand, I'm not especially keen on making extra work for myself. Thanks for any thoughts on the matter, Marc <You have a well-thought out master-plan. I'd stick to it. Bob Fenner> Moving Question Please! Hi Bob, I have a friend that is moving from another state which would take at least 2-3 days and he is asking me that how is he going to move his corals such as Soft and SPS, mainly Acropora. He did mention that I have ordered from FFExpress before and that they shipped them to me via FedEx for at least 2 days and they are alive. Well I search through WWM but can't find any info, but from my order experience is that the bag is less than half way filled and it was covered with another black piece of bag to keep the lights out and they are shipped with ice pack, and my guess is that the PH is lowered to keep corals from dying I guess (but how and what to keep pH low I don't Know) <Ice packs added during summer shipping... No to lowering pH... this just happens enroute... Do use Styrofoam boxes, coolers... for insulation.> any info is appreciated, and that is all I know. Is there anything you can give this guy an advice that would be really appreciated. RL <There was a nice piece in FAMA two months back re shipping/moving livestock... detailed info. about bags, bagging... Please read through the little here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/movingaq.htm and the associated links, FAQs files... and consider detailing, writing, photographing the work done and putting out as an article to the hobby press. Bob Fenner> Moving Tanks Hi Bob, Jason, <<JasonC here, hello to you.>> How are you? <<I am well, and I hope the finds you in a similar way.>> I had written to you couple months back about Cyano .. thankfully, it's now pretty much gone but not without cost .. lost 3 hard corals along the way probably because I stopped adding additives etc altogether. <<yin/yang>> Anyway, I am moving next week to a new apt, and am thinking of using this opportunity to "upgrade" my existing tank. I have a 2 years old 60G reef with 45lb LR and about 60lbs sand. Have a flame angel, yellow tang, 3 damsels and a golden Sleeperhead goby. My question is, with a limited budget, would it be a better idea to: 1. get more live rock, 2. replace the existing substrate with one regular size e.g. sugar size (I have a mixture of all sizes, 40% sugar size, 20% crushed coral, 40% in-between, and my LFS told me this is a bad idea) 3. get more live rock and also add some more sand My sand bed is currently only 1 inch deep, and am using Bak-Pak and HOT Magnum for Carbon and phosphate sponge. What do you think? <<As to point #2, all good substrate goes away eventually so this will work itself out. Honestly, I'd add enough sand to get you to two to three inches, and then see if you can put a power skimmer on there, like a Remora or something... I just think skimmers go such a long way to good water quality, and being a BP owner, I know you can do better. [I use mine on a 20g quarantine] - also, if you could perhaps ditch the magnum for a sump/refugium, you wouldn't regret it.>> Also now that I have a chance to catch the damsels and goby, I am thinking of trading them in for either a Power Brown or a Hippo Tang. My Yellow Tang is about 3.5" so I will probably try to get something either similar in size, if not larger. <<ok, this plan will work, but do think carefully about that Powder Brown - these are difficult to keep, if not impossible in a system of your size, and it has a similar cousin which you may like and will have better chances - check out the Gold Rim Tang at: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/GoldRimSs.htm Hippos are good, but not bomb-proof - check them out here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/paracant.htm >> My stocking plan is to first introduce the new tang, then the flame angel after a week, and finally my yellow tang in another week (both my flame and tang have been at war for more than a year now, <<good thing they are both still there...>> and I am hoping to change the social dynamics by introducing a 3rd "big" fish). <<well, the whole move process and resultant re-work of the interior of the tank should throw off the battle for a little while. How it all plays out... there is no telling. I'm having my doubts about two tangs in a tank of this size - just worried they might go to war against each other.>> Other inverts I have include cleaner shrimp, star poly, bubble and mushroom corals (sadly my flowerpot, frogspawns died after having had them for a long time ...) Thanks again for your help and time. Brian <<My pleasure. Cheers, J -- >> Tank Upsizing I am interested in going from one tank size to
another and wanted to know the mechanics of making the switch. I
currently have a 46g bow front with 40 lb. of LR and 40 lb. of LS, a
Rio 1700 powerhead for current (a little overkill me thinks) <Not
me> , a cheap plastic 30 watt light bulb, <plastic?> and an
AquaC Remora skimmer. The critters in it consist of 5 various damsels,
a green Chromis and a pink skunk clown. The only other inhabitants are
crabs, serpents, and snails. The 46g bow is vary difficult to deal with
because of its odd shape. My wife broke the top glass this summer and
it took a month to find a replacement. Anyway, I can't decide
between a 75 or 55g. My current system has had no problems or deaths
for almost a year. If and when I switch, how do I make the transfer?
<Does it have to go in about the same/overlapping space? If not, set
up the 75/55 (bigger is better) and move all the "old" over
the new after the new has cycled live rock etc. wise> What steps
need I take? I'll make the new with a little more pizzazz, like
stronger lighting and more sand and rock plus corals. Could you help me
with a basic blueprint? Thank you. <Again... in the same space? Bob
Fenner> Moving a reef system hi bob, i read over all of your articles on your website on moving marine tanks, but i would like your personal opinion instead, please. I am moving a 55 gallon "reef" tank...I've moved 55 gallon marine tanks before (helped out 2 different friends), but all they had was fish, and we were successful with both moves, but my tank is a reef tank, and we all know how delicate the corals can be. here's everything i have 55 gallon tank/stand about 200 watts of power compacts calcium reactor protein skimmer 2 Fluval 403's 55 lbs of live rock 1 hippo tang 1 yellow tang 1 sailfin tang mating pair of saddleback clowns (no luck yet) I'm not to worried about moving all of those things, but here's my list of corals.... 4 different mushroom polyps 1 bubble tip Anemone 4 different open brains 2 yellow mushroom umbrella's (very beautiful!!) 2 maxima clams (also beautiful) 1 frogspawn and 2 different forms of flowerpot coral (doing very well for about 8 months now, very surprised, as i heard they are not hearty) <If received in good shape, placed in a "not too clean" setting" and left alone, often do surprisingly well... Instead, most received beat to dead, put in sterile settings, fooled with to death...> i would HATE to lose any of the corals....any suggestions on moving them??? my move is across town (about 1 mile) <If you can, set up another tank in advance, more all water (replace) and rest as quick as possible... corals in boxes on sand in shallow water in the dark...> i was planning on getting lots small buckets and putting one piece of coral in each container, is this a good idea, please help, your opinion means so much to me, and like i said, I've already read all of your articles and have some experience in doing these moves, but not with almost $800 worth of coral...thanks...Jeff <Specific questions? Bob Fenner> Forgot one thing... last email was about skimmers (actually, about moving a tank for one) I forgot to tell you.. I only have a 3" clearing behind my tank (Between it and the wall.. i didn't think I'd need more room, but I realize going with a new skimmer might require more room... what's the best way to get my tank away from the wall aside from draining it all? :( <Really... draining it most all the way... if it's acrylic you can likely get away with down to the level where the fishes are still wet, and with a friend with a strong back carefully swing one corner about, then the opposite side... if glass, I'd take the water, rock, fishes out first. Bob Fenner> Thanks again, Misc. Questions (mainly re moving) Hey Bob, I have just a couple questions I want to run by you. We will be moving soon so I have been reading up on moving a saltwater tank successfully. I question I have is if I place my rock and live sand in the tank after it has been moved can I add completely new water? <Yes... try to make this new water close in qualities (temperature, specific gravity...) to the "old" water> In essence I would be doing a 99% water change (I assume I need to keep my live rock and sand wet while I move). I just don't want to do a complete water change and have my tank recycle. Also, with the move I get another tank. I'm looking at about a 75 gallon right now. I want to go as natural as possible. I would like to have an 8 inch live sand bed and about 100lbs of live rock. I only want one fish in the tank a baby Clown trigger. I am planning to have about 4 to 6 power heads in the tank for water movement. If I take my tank and stick to my plan for only one fish, do you think I will still need outside filtration. <Mmm, likely so... at least with growth of the Trigger> I do plan to have a small (Berlin Prizm) on the tank just in case the water quality suddenly drops or more aeration is needed. Does this all sound like a good plan or is it a plan for disaster? Thanx, Jonathan Pac <You'll likely be able to tell if things are starting to go badly... from the fish's behavior, water testing. Bob Fenner> BIG MOVE ___BIG PROBLEMS I have read over the Q&A section on wetwebmedia.com regarding moving aquariums, but I couldn't find anything pertaining something even close to my problem. I have a 75gal FOWLR and am upgrading finally to a 300gal FOWLR. <Wowzah, quite a jump! Wish my "disposable" income (just what is this anyway, discretionary as in this or that flavor of Ramen?) went up in this fashion> My question is can I move this 75gal of water, LR, fish, and gravel to the new tank containing 225gal of RO water with the same salt level, temperature, and PH level and be okay? <Likely yes... I would set up the new, much bigger system in advance as much as you can... with whatever additional live rock, substrate... and have it running with the water level down... about seventy five gallons...> The 75gal will be used as the sump. I have a Merlin Fluidized Sand Bed that has never been used if you think this could be used at all making the change. <Wouldn't hurt. I'd use if I had it> The LR in the tank was the only thing I needed to sustain life in my tank and I will order an additional 200lbs from ffexpress.com once the tank is up and running. Also I have a 20gal tank that is used as the sump now but my fish wouldn't be able to live in such small quarters for any period of time allowing enough time for the new tank to cycle. <Agreed. Sounds like quite an adventure (mimicking Albie Beals here)... Be chatting! Bob Fenner> Moving Aquariums We sold our house and are going to have to move twice. I have two aquariums ( live rock, live sand, fish, anemones, etc.), I have no choice but to move them. I need to move them for the first time in about 30 days and then again in Jan. when our new house is done. I don't want to lose anything if I can help it, I have worked very hard on my aquariums. A local fish store has offered to buy some of my anemones, I plan to keep only one per tank. At present I have 6 or more per tank. The local fish store will help me move them, should I take them up on their offer? Or should I move them on my own? <Mmm, if you feel up to the task, I would go it alone... or maybe supervise some strong backs if you think this will help...> I have never let anyone else touch my aquariums and I am concerned. Please help! Linda Gagliardi <Do read over our old company's Action Plan for such moves: http://wetwebmedia.com/movingaq.htm With planning, preparation (there's a tool, material list on the AP and simple "steps to completion" your moves will be fine. Bob Fenner> Moving tank Hi Bob! Thanks so much for your quick reply to my last question regarding plenums. Guess what? I now have another one, regarding moving my tank. <Am shocked and amazed!> I looked over your article and the faq's on moving, found them very helpful, but unfortunately didn't answer my question. So here it goes. Just to refresh you, I have a 30g w/plenum, live sand, live rock, and Aragocrete (instructions courtesy GARF.org) I will be moving shortly (in a few weeks) about 10 miles away. <As the saying goes, "Plan your move, move your plan"> My question is: how should I move the tank w/ plenum intact. I figured to take out all rock, corals and other livestock, placing the fish in a bag (there's only one right now, the other having disappeared, I think he jumped out of the open top and maybe the cats got him; there's no trace anywhere:( ) And removing all the water except for what is on and in the sand bed and putting the aquarium on a strong board(s) to prevent shifting/ stress fractures. There's about 60lbs of substrate, plus it has about 5g's of water under/in the substrate, plus the weight of the tank. I guess if the tank breaks there's always my 29 g, which I was planning to hook up to it for added water capacity and refugium. Any thoughts/help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks a lot!!! Erin <Hmm, well, if the plenum isn't too heavy... and a bonus if it's not made of glass... I might well try lifting it intact (with most of the water drained out, but the plenum left as is... If you deem it too massive (watch your back!) I would remove most of the upper sand and place it in a clean container... and just replace it when you're where it's going... Bob Fenner> Upgrading my reef Hi, I have a five year old 55-gallon reef tank that I want to upgrade to a 120-gallon. My 55-gallon is full of hard and soft corals. I will have to brake my 55-tank down because I intend placing the 120-gallon tank in its place in my house. <Ah> I will be adding an extra 100 lbs of pre-cured live rock ( currently curing in the 120-gallon tank) and 120 lbs of sand. I am basically very nervous about doing the change, I would hate to lose any of my corals. <You won't, doing this systematically> I would appreciate your opinion on the best way to go about the change over. I will be using all the existing equipment from the 55 g on the 120 g tank, adding some extra circulation and lighting (2x 250 W 65K M Halides). I currently have 3 x 110W VHOs and 2 x 96W PCs. Also, is it OK to mix the new sand with the live sand in my 55 gallon or should I place the new sand on top of the live sand? <Mixing will be fine. Please read over the following: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/movingaq.htm and associated FAQs files. Bob Fenner> Thanks Stephen Pretorius Re: more help please (moving a system) i just thought i would drop u a line. i moved the tank on Saturday and everything went well thankfully everything survived and all is well in the tank the regal tang looks better now than what he looked like in the guys tank he is almost fully blue again he went white at his house and had been like that for a few months. i would like to say thanks to u for all your help. <You're welcome> the trickle filter was fine and the nitrate, nitrite and ammonia are registering 0 so the filter was fine, i moved everything and got it all set up in less than 6 hours which was hard work for a 100+ imp. gallon tank so i think that helped keep everything down to a minimum. <Wow, that's quick. You must have been quite organized> i am very grateful for your help i don't think i could have done it without u so cheers. also i feel that keeping a lot of the original water helped i kept about 3/4 of it. u can pass this message on if u please as am sure it will help others who have to move their tanks. <Thank you, will do so. Be chatting. Bob Fenner> cheers again Alex Removing the Tang? more ?s on moving... Hi Bob, This is the
40 gallon gal. I bet you thought that neat little forum
(talk.wetwebfotos.com) would clear up your mailbox a bit!! Well no such
luck! (LOTS of fun though, for us fish nuts.) <Really enjoying
browsing there> Anyway I think the Sailfin is long overdue a new
home. My favorite LFS has agreed to reimburse some of the cost in
exchange for perhaps a better size Tang. I really would like a Kole,
but would get a Yellow perhaps for my current tank budget.
<Either> The question is this: How do I get him out without
tangling him in the net? I read somewhere that Tangs get tangled (was
it from you?). <At least me... best to use a stout, large bag... or
doubled, trebled... guide it in with a large net handle...
underwater...> My LFS suggested I put him in a bucket to transport
him. He said the net to bucket would be easier than a net to plastic
bag. Nice idea but won't the bucket spill? (One hour drive and all
that.) Any ideas on this? <Yes... and the fish bump its noggin... I
would use the bags, dip most of the water back out... borrow a
Styrofoam fish box for the trip over> Next question: my realtor for
when I sell the place was over today. (I have a condo). He is thinking
that I should not try and keep the tank going while trying to sell the
place. He believes people will be thinking there is water damage
whether there is or not. Btw, I got the idea he didn't have
experience with this. I thought aquariums were more common than that.
Oh well. <Nuts to realtors (I happen to be a licensee in CA...
it's not a big deal)... I say leave the tank... shows the home is
homey, the floor's are strong, and you have a well-centered
life...> Do you have experience selling a house (I mean your own)
with an aquarium? <Actually, am a huge fan of R.E.
investment... have all the places (all SFR's) that I've ever
bought... since the early seventies...> I'm sure you have always
had aquariums! (At birth? :-)) <Almost... and have a 4k coral farm
(hobby) alongside the house... and am in escrow (buying a similar house
on the opposite cyn here... bigger lot... time to trade out/in
equity...> Btw he was maybe not so keen about me keeping it up but
couldn't tear his eyes away from it and asked all sorts of
questions-- it was fun answering and supplying factoids. Maybe I should
run tours. :-) <Perhaps... show him this email... and say
"I'm the boss" (cuz you are) and either sell my place for
top dollar or the heave ho... Keep the tank going... sheesh... it's
your home!> More moving questions later... Too bad for you. :-)
Thanks again, your amateur Ichthyologist friend (Btw, did you know the
root word for amateur was "to love" or something like that?
<Yes... have a classics minor (Lingua Latina and Graecum) from my
first degree...> I thought that little factoid was interesting! :-))
<Much more to chat about my friend. Bob Fenner> --Jane J I'm moving YIKES! Hi Bob, This is the "forty gallon
gal". I gave you a couple days vacation from me. But now I am home
with a bad cold and time on my hands (when I'm not sneezing). It
was fun chatting about Ecosystems, Miracle mud, and garlic but now for
what I am really worried about! (Btw I posted a question about garlic
and ich on the ng. What flamage. New is bad-- see sig file below. )
Anyway, I am moving from Chicago to Albuquerque <A nice town... but
food very different... you have much better pizza (uno and dewey cheat
em and how)... but they have better tex mex for sure...> around
November (if I can sell my place so fast). BTW, this is my first time
out of the Midwest. And I have many questions about moving the tank.
<Okay> I am not even considering moving critters. And don't
think this is a great time to get me in a bigger tank :-) as I am
moving to a smaller place. However, this time I plan on doing it right
and not making the same stupid mistakes (I can now make interesting new
stupid mistakes :-)). <Bet you'll end with larger tanks just the
same> I'm not sure how soon afterwards I can set up, but it may
not be immediately (lots to do after such a long move). Anyway I have a
couple questions that weren't answered on your FAQ. 1. I am using a
professional national mover. Will they know what to do with an
aquarium? Obviously I can't really "pack" it, but are
there other things I should do? <Best to be "safe rather than
the other one"... get your own much larger boxes for anything
outright breakable (tanks, filter boxes...) and go to the big box
hardware store (Lowe's? there) and buy some sheets of Styrofoam (or
lots of boxes of cardboard), cut up and cushion all from all... and
get/use a two inch wide tape gun to really seal all up tight and
non-shifting... and big red labels or marking pen as in "this end
up" "extremely breakable"...> 2. Can I save any of
the sand? Some of it is "live" and of course it is probably
now occupied, however I could reseed it or just let new LR do that.
Does it need to be dried? I could probably arrange that. <Just moist
is okay if only a couple of weeks... in semi-open buckets... ones with
some holes drilled in tops... will need some rinsing on removal and
replacing... but some life will survive... worthwhile> 3. Can I save
any of the live rock? I realize it also will not stay "live".
But I could save some cash that way. And if I do that should I save the
prime stuff with the hope it will get recoralined in later. Or should I
save the less interested pieces. I realize this is up to me, but I
don't know how doable this is or what the likely results are. If I
can save some of it, what's a good ratio between dead and live
rock? <Can ship semi-moist as well... with or w/o toweling/paper...
in the same sort of way as live sand> (BTW, someone on the reef list
I'm on claims she kept a whole lot of rock live and sand held damp
in Styrofoam boxes for several months. She claims it did not get too
rank, and some of the coralline survived. However, nobody substantiated
this, and I don't know if it was some fluke of some sort.) <I
believe her> 4. Also how clean should I make the aquarium? I have a
very good growth of coralline on the back. Do you recommend a
razorblade or some chemical? <Leave this as is for now... some may
well make the journey, and if it dies after, no big deal> Anyway
enough for now, you mentoree? You realize I am going to be a lot
closer?? Hehehehe. <Stop laughing... I do go through New Mexico (and
Chicago) pretty often. Bob Fenner> Moving an aquarium Dear Bob (and/or Lorenzo): <Robare today> (If Bob, then I hope the fish safari was as fun as it sounded! - If Lorenzo, I'm sorry to keep bugging you with questions...) <No worries on either count, I/we assure you> Anyway, just an update- I found out that my mystery creature is a Vermetid snail. Here is a nice article that has a couple of pictures that resemble my creature (not the first picture though) http://www.aquarium.net/0897/0897_8.shtml. <Very nice, thank you for this> Now, why I am writing... I had told Lorenzo a little about my fish tank. Unfortunately, what I neglected to mention (because I think I was in denial) <Ah, the "Queen of da Nile?"> is that I have to move the fish tank for a short time so that new carpet can be put in. (Why put in new carpeting now? Well, my husband bought me a brand new 60 g Tenecor aquarium last Christmas, but I haven't set it up because we had been thinking about putting in new carpet. <Superb patience> So, rather than set it up and then have to disassemble it, we chose to re-carpet and re-tile the entire house- clearly this is more information than you really wanted, but it puts into perspective why I have to move my little tank). <I understand> I just need to move the tank overnight while they put in the new carpet and I was thinking that it would be sufficient to slowly (over the course of a few hours so that not too much silt gets kicked up) drain and move a few pieces of rock a time to a second tank. I would plan on setting up the filters etc on the second tank too. Then, once the first tank is drained I could move it with the sand and a few rocks on the bottom. I could add a little water back to it after it had been moved and keep a power head going. The next day I could basically reverse the process to move it back. However, I'm concerned with how I'm going to catch the fish without terrifying them and whether this plan will end up killing everything. <Not to worry... be systematic... take a look through, print the "Moving Aquariums" part of our site: http://wetwebmedia.com/movingaq.htm and use the checklist, steps to completion for your move> Just the thought of all this makes me very sad. I don't want to disturb anything in the tank- its been set up over a year and everything is doing so well. [Tank description: 1.25 yr old, 15 gal, ~35 lbs live rock (aquacultured from Florida), CPR back pak filter, maxi jet powerhead, lots of mushrooms and assorted soft corals (e.g. star polyps, brown and green polyps, tree/finger coral etc), 3-4 xmas tree worms, a colony of little white feather dusters, 2-3 Chitons, a sea urchin, several small brittle stars, 3 hermit crabs, 2 tank raised ocellaris clowns (> 1 yr old), and one female spotted mandarin (> 6 mo.s in tank, she eats lots of stuff including frozen brine shrimp). <Good> Any comments that you have would be GREATLY appreciated-If you could direct me to any good articles, I would very much appreciate that too! <Please do read through our site: www.WetWebMedia.com and make use of the search engine there (Google).> Thanks Sam <You're welcome my friend. Bob Fenner> A question. (moving aquarium) Bob -- I have enjoyed your articles and books for many years. Finally, I have a question that I am "moved" to ask. <Make it so> I have a 125 gallon reef that has been up for almost 2 years and doing extremely well. I have over 200 lbs. of live rock, 70 lbs. of sand, a cell-u-pore plenum and too much coral to name. I just bought a house about 100 miles away and am going to set up a 225 gallon tank (72x24x30) with a 35 gallon refugium in the sump. <Sounds like a nice project> I plan on bringing in a professional service to handle the move. (Better safe than sorry) I also plan on adding another 85 lbs of live rock. I will cure this pre-cured rock myself in an appropriate container. My main questions: How should I prepare the new tank for the arrivals of my existing specimens? <Have it set up with the new LR ASAP, allowing the new system to cure as long as you can before moving all to it as per the "Action Plan" on "Moving Aquariums" posted on the Marine Index/part of our site: www.WetWebMedia.com> How long should the curing of the new live rock take? <A week or three... measure aspects of nitrogen cycling...> My secondary questions concern the residents. I presently have a hippo tang, yellow tang, Vlamingi tang, starcki damsel, orchid Dottyback, flame hawk, 2 cleaner shrimp, a banded coral shrimp and a single remaining green Chromis. I love tangs and would like to add the following: 3-5 yellow tangs 1 purple tang 1 Naso tang 1 Kole tang 10 green Chromis 4 lyre-tail Anthias 1 tomato clown 2 Heniochus 2 reef safe wrasses (Scott's, lineatus and the like) Am I crazy or is this too many fish? <It would be tight fitting all this in with what you have already... are you keeping, re-setting up the current tank? Maybe a bunch of these organisms can go there... they're all pretty much compatible as species, but need about twice the proposed space to do well in.> I would appreciate any insight that you can provide. -- Richard Wulwick <Take your time, print out the article cited, use as a checklist of "to do's". Bob Fenner> Moving Livestock Hi Robert, <Actually, Lorenzo Gonzalez still standing in for Bob-in-Asia> I was hoping you could help me out here. I'm getting soooo frustrated. <Youch! breathe deep, Daniel-san...> When I first got my marine tank, I was a little carried away stocking it. Now I have 8 fishes in a 75 gallon, 3 of which will get quite large 4"+ (Naso, domino, yellow tang) and wanted to remove 2 or 3. Sound easy? <No way. Never easy. Even in a barren holding tank.> Well, removing/re-arranging decor (corals and rock) is not an option at this point. I spent too much time landscaping the aquarium and really can't bring myself to re-doing everything. <Yeah - know how you feel.> Any tips on netting? I have tried for hours and can't even come close to netting any. I've tried hiding behind a towel, luring them with food, but can't even come close. As soon as they see the net...they're gone in the rocks ! I really don't know what to do at this point. Any help on this one would be most appreciated. <The Tangs, well, if you feed them on a veggie-clip, position the net under the clip, perhaps laying on some rock, handle sticking out where you can easily grab it... and LEAVE IT THERE, for a couple days, through a couple of feedings. If they'll feed whilst you are hovering about the tank, (most will) you can usually nab them this way. Just don't move the net until you're really ready to swoop it up underneath them. The damsel can be caught similarly, if he eats off the surface. Good luck! -Lorenzo> Tank Move & Sand Sifting Stars Bob--hello again. I had a
pleasant surprise yesterday--diatoms in the new system. The sand in the
refugium was covered with them, and there were also some growing in the
display tank. I'm getting more comfortable that the system will be
ready for the move this weekend. Apart from the trace ammonia/nitrites
I saw last Wednesday 24 hours after the LR was added, they've been
undetectable ever since. Nitrates are around 2.5 ppm. Ca and alk are
also good--420 and 3.2 meq/L, respectively. The larger system is also
seeming to be more supportive of pH--I've had readings around 8.0
in the mornings, and the addition of Caulerpa to the refugium and the
VHO lighting when the system is moved should help support pH even more.
So this week I'm adjusting temp/salinity/pH on the old system to be
the same as the new system, so that from a water chemistry standpoint,
the move will be "seamless" for my livestock. <Sounds
good> I have a question about my sand sifting stars. I have two of
them in the old system. I'm trying to achieve a much better
filtration through the DSB on the new system than I've had on the
old one. The old LS bed is only about 2-3" deep, and the new one
is about 4-5" deep. In addition to using the LS from my current
system, I'm also going to seed it with some of the critters from
IPSF and inland aquatics, with a few bristle worms, Mysis shrimp,
amphipods etc. I'm also planning to add 50-60 Nassarius snails.
<Okay> I now understand that sand sifting stars, while they are
good at keeping the top of the sand bed free of diatoms and other
undesirable algal forms, <I'd say, "useful for keeping
these in check"> will completely deplete the sand bed creatures
over time, leaving you eventually with just the sand and the stars. Is
this in fact the case? <No... more like foxes and rabbits in a
given setting... a dynamic of predator/prey relations, populations will
develop> I like the sand sifters, but I'm really leaning toward
turning them in to the LFS if they're going to be counterproductive
to what I'm trying to achieve with the DSB, which is lots of
diversity! <They are part of "that" diversity... Perhaps a
vacation or extension course could help cure your linearity of
thought... very self-limiting> Thanks for your thoughts, and I hope
you had a great weekend. <And for you, lifetime! Bob Fenner>
James A. Deets Big move... Okay, so the day is here. I've read over your FAQs but didn't quite find the answers I needed. Thanks in advance for your speedy reply. I'm doing a double whammy... upgrading my 55 gallon to a 100 gallon AND moving from my rental home to a new apartment. Fish only. <Some mental and physical exercise now!> Today I'm going to finish breaking down my brother in law's 100G that he's giving me, and I will be dropping it off at the LFS to have some holes drilled into the acrylic that will drain water into my sump. Once that is done, I am going to fill the tank and sump with tap water and add in the salt mix. I will let this sit for a week for the "bad stuff" to leave the tap water. <Good idea> Once the water in the main tank is good and ready to go, I want to add in my live rock. <Do add some of the "old water" to the 100 after a day or so...> I have two sources of live rock. One source (about 40lbs) is from my existing established 55G at my old house... the other source is from my new 100G. I pulled the rock from the poorly maintained 100G from my bro in law and am storing/kind of re-curing the rock since last week in my garage with light and water pumps. I also have live sand in my established 55G tank. <Okay> Will moving over the LR and LS from the established tanks prevent me from having to recycle the tank? <Likely, yes> What about adding in the LR from the 100G that is ready to go? The rock has always "smelt fine" as I told you in an earlier email, and you suggested that I just keep it in a bucket with some light and circulation. <Yes, do place, use it> If I pull the live rock from my established system to move it to the new tank, I'm sure I'll piss off my fish, so I'd like to just move the fish and rock at the same time, but am concerned I may have a recycling event. <Minor only> Good thing is that after I setup the 100G with the freshly mixed salt water and wait a week for chloramine and all that stuff to go away, I still have a two to two and a half week window to move stuff over from the 55G. I left myself a month long window for a slow transition to the new apartment. Here's my action plan: Week One - Move in 100G tank and setup new salt water in tank/sump and begin circulation of water. Allow "bad stuff" to go away. Week Two - Take some live sand from the established tank and seed the new tank. Add in LR taken from 100G tank. Week Three - Move over live rock, remaining live sand and fish to the new tank. Test water in new tank prior to moving livestock. Does this sound reasonable? Can I do things quicker (always preferred). <Yes... you did see/read over the "Moving Aquariums" article on the www.WetWebMedia.com site I trust... I would review it>. Thanks Bob as always. This will be a lot of work, but I can't wait!!! <Me neither. Bob Fenner> Tank Move Hi Bob! As an update, I moved my 115 gallon system on Sunday. I had 5 other people helping--while I was draining water and moving LR and livestock, my helpers were having a cookout on the deck and having a brew or two and coming in to help when needed. No casualties at this point (either my helpers or my livestock). <Good to have help, fun in planned process> I did a full range of water tests last night, as expected, I am getting a small cycle. Ammonia was around 0.2 and nitrite <0.2. Since both of these levels are very low simultaneously, this would suggest to me that I'm not going to have a significant spike, and that the post-moving cycle is almost complete. (I would be much more concerned if I had ammonia at 0.5 and no nitrite. . .) Does this seem like a reasonable interpretation of these readings? <Yes> Nitrate are still testing zero. I've ordered Salifert test kits for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate, as I've never had the nitrates test above zero with my current kit. Since I've got some Cyano bloom right now, that leads me to believe that there must be some nitrates in there, and the Aquarium Systems "FasTest" I'm using isn't giving me true results. <Likely... and various BGA are able to very quickly assimilate nutrient> For the move, I put system water and as much LR as I could fit into 36 gallon Rubbermaid tubs, with heaters and powerheads. Fish livestock went into these tubs. I put the corals in 5 gallon buckets with system water. I didn't have heaters or powerheads for these buckets, but believe it or not, the bubble and moon corals extended fully in the buckets, and the red brain coral was inflated as big as I'd ever seen it. The only specimen that seems to be still "recovering" is the toadstool leather. However, that coral is my tried and true "water tester," being the first to show any signs of stress in response to any deterioration in water quality. It was looking much better this morning, so that leads me to believe that the ammonia and nitrite are quickly being consumed. The purple tang turned lavender during the process, almost a pastel purple. About an hour after he went back into the tank, he regained his full coloration. It's amazing how fish can change color so rapidly in response to stress. A good lesson here. <Indeed> Thought I'd give you a brief update on how things were going. I'm certain now I NEVER want to be in the service business! :) (Although I'm sure it would be a lot less stressful to move someone else's livestock and tank as opposed to your own. . . ) <Still stressful> One other question. I've read several more negative accounts regarding the Rio2100 pumps this week. I purchased the Turboflotor1000 skimmer for the new system, and it came with a Rio 2100. I'd really like to replace that Rio with a Mag 7 and use the Rio just for water changes and mixing salt mix, but the MO outfit that I bought the TF1000 from said that the needle wheel impeller that comes with the skimmer will only fit the Rio pumps. Is that so? <Yes... but there are other pumps, w/ and w/o needle-like impellers that will work> Do you know of a pump that I can use in place of the Rio that the needle wheel impeller will fit? (I posted this to the NG and haven't gotten any responses. . .) <Keep looking... as there are others... including the Mag line and Eheim that folks use...> One other note for you. When I read a message from a "newbie" on the NG who is just getting started and has lots of very broad questions, I've been directing them to your website. And you'll be pleased to know that I have had many replies to those posts from very experienced aquarists to the effect of "Amen to that one." Just thought you'd like to know that your work is respected and appreciated at all levels within the hobby! <Yes, thank you> Hope you're having a good week! James A. Deets <Life to you my friend. Bob Fenner> Marine Tank Disaster! Hello Robert! I've corresponded with you in the past regarding my 55 gallon marine tank. I am very new to the Marine Aquarium Hobby, and after receiving and acting upon your previous advice, my tank was healthy as could be, that is, until, the BIG DISASTER! Please bear with me, as it may be a bit lengthy, but I think that it's a pretty good story. I think it is also pretty inspiring for the new marine aquarist, such as myself. At the end, I'll be looking for anything I could've done differently, if this ever happens again. 11:30pm, the night before I was to leave for the Canary Islands, my husband was playing with our dog, and accidentally threw her bone through the side of our 55 gallon tank. <Wow, that's some toss! Maybe sign him up for tryouts with the Major League? Fifty fives are generally made of 3/8 or 1/2" plate glass.> Baseball sized hole, about 5 inches from the bottom - you can guess how fast the water emptied out! <Very quickly, or for Mac/Apple types, "very quick"> Once the water drained below the hole, it was seeping out slowly through cracks, and I had to decide what to do. I had 1 blue damsel, 3 fire fish, and 1 red pencil anemone in my tank, and all were still inside. Against all advice, I had not yet set up a nursing tank, but I had a spare 30 gallon sitting in my workshop. <Ahh, very fortuitous> I had my husband pull out the fish and put them in a large plastic bowl filled with water remaining in the tank. I cleaned the 30 gallon as best as I could (it once housed Oscars), salvaged all of the rock, decor from the 55 gallon and loaded it into the 30 gallon, salvaged about 5 gallons of water from it, and a small amount of substrate that was "glass free". I then filled the rest of the 30 gallon tank with distilled water and well water, added Tap Water Conditioner, BioZyme, StressCoat, Stresszyme, pH 8.2, salt to Specific Gravity of 1.023, and dropped in my Fluval Filter. I added my heater and brought the temperature up to 78, the released the fish. The next day, I fed them and left for vacation. The surprise if it is, after 9 days of my not being there, ALL OF THE FISH LIVED! My biggest problem at this point is that the water got cloudy from feeding pyramids which I had put in (never again will I use them, I've bought an automatic feeder). <Very good...> So, I've now purchased a new 55 gallon tank, am in the process of setting it up, and am about to move my fish out of their temporary housing. Though all worked out well for me, I'm pretty sure that it was 99% luck that caused it. Other than keeping a nursing tank (which my 30 gallon will now become), what should I have done differently? <Shades of Deuce Bigelow (one of my fave films natch)... Nothing comes to mind...> Thankfully, the Fluval filters are, essentially, portable biological filters, so that helped, but I'm sure that I missed a few things on this. Any advice you could give would be wonderful. Both you and your publications have been a great source of assistance to me during my introduction to marine aquarium keeping. Thanks again! Deborah H. Colella <Thank you for your relating this debacle and triumph... Obviously, your livestock were in good shape and your system well maintained before the "bone toss" incident (another Anne Rice title?), and all's well that ends well. You may quote me. Bob Fenner, who will post your amazing tale on the www.WetWebMedia.com site for others edification> New Fish Tank Hiya Bob I have been asking your advice over the past couple of months about upgrading my fish only tank to be able to sustain some simple soft corals. After much deliberation and weighing up the cost of various equipment i feel that it would be cheaper and more reliable to simply buy a second hand tank that can already sustain corals and inverts. I think i have finally found my tank. I hope that the pictures have attached properly to the mail. <Will look for on your next email> Is there anything else i should consider before buying this tank, i am going to see it on Friday night. The tank is 18months old and is 48 inches x 15inches X 18inches high. It contains 1 Yellow Tang 5 Yellow Tailed Damsels 5 Humbugs 2 Shrimps and 1 hermit crab. I wish to still keep my fish if possible (7" regal tang, 2 Common Clownfish, and a 3" Damsel) Should i give the damsels and Humbugs back to the LFS in order to keep my Tang??? <At least five of them, yes> Another majority problem, I would have to transport the tank by car for 2.5hrs to my house! Have you any suggestions for transporting the live rock, fish, corals, with minimal die off???? And should i wait a while until i put the corals and fish back in? <Yes, please see, copy the "Moving Aquariums" and checklist for same posted on the www.WetWebMedia.com site, start saving clean cans, fish-boxes... ask your LFS to hold onto some large fish bags... rinse and air dry these...> The method i have at the moment is as follows. Remove all the corals and fish and put them into large tubs of the tank water. Then I completely drain all the water off the tank, carry the tank into the car. I Think i should then put some of the water back into the tank while it is in the car to keep anything alive that is in the substrate and place damp clothes over the live rock to keep it moist. <Just enough to keep damp... and watch your back!> When at my house i drain the water out of the tank, carry the tank into my living room and refill with all the existing water and put the fish and corals back. Are there any flaws in tis plan???? <Not really, but many cautions, steps in-between... look over the Action Plan... listed on the WWM site again... this is what we used to train, direct our staff for a few decades in the service side> Sorry for the long e-mail and all the questions, but i would like to do this properly with as little upset and death as possible:) Thanks in advance, Matt Haslam <No worries, thanks for sharing this adventure. Bob Fenner> Catching Fish Hi Bob, In response to the question about an easy way to catch fish on the FAQ I thought I'd share what I do in the event it may be helpful. This is hard to describe in words - easier to see. I've set up my 60 gallon (4ft) tank with most of the rock on the left 3 feet and only three large pieces in a pile on the right 1 foot. There is an "s" shaped division running about 30 degrees from perpendicular between these two piles that is almost unnoticeable. I got a piece of thin Plexiglas (it's important to be thin enough to be flexible) and cut it to fit the space. All I have to do is chase the fish I want to that end of the tank (with the help of food) and maneuver the partition in place. Once that's accomplished the most I have to disturb is the three rocks in that part of the tank. I've only had to catch a fish twice but both times it was a breeze - 10 to 15 minutes. Brian "hoping he can help after all the help he's received" Battles <Thanks much for this (bizarre, but a friend was mentioning about the same thing last night about a pesky Remora in their system that's been the Dickens to catch out). Will post on the WWM site for all's use. Bob Fenner> Please Advise - marine Reef tank Hi Bob, You have a great Q&A. Its been very informative. I hope you can advise me on the following 2 questions <I'm willing to give it a go.> 1) Is there an easy way/methods to catch fish. I have a reef aquarium and I recently had to strip the rock out to catch a sick powder brown (Mission Impossible 3, fish are damn smart when they need to be) He has subsequently recovered in a hospital tank. <With many organisms the fastest, easiest, most expedient, about only way to remove them from a system is as you state... to systematically remove all other materials... Some can be "trained" to ignore nets (by exposure, feeding nearby...), others can be baited/trapped...> I can catch clowns at feeding time easily, since they hover around the top I haven't tried leaving a net in the tank with food in. I doubt this would work with the tang, if he sees a net (or hand) he disappears. Maybe a PVC pipe blocked at one end with food in and wait to block the entrance. (I have a ghost fish that will "steal" any temptations for the fish I want to catch) <Try leaving an all-plastic large net in either corner front of the system for days...> 2) I have a 400 Litre tank, with built in filter at back with loads of bioballs and about to transfer it into a 700L (my new baby) tank with 100L sump. I cant afford a whole lot more of the bioballs for the new tank. I am about to just started cycling the new tank (filling with RO water) then add maturing agent. <Good idea... and would leave out the bioballs, remove them in time... as you see nitrate levels approaching, exceeding say 10ppm> Please advise on the transfer method of stock, rock and filter media. <Please read through the "moving aquariums" section and FAQs file associated with it on the site: www.wetwebmedia.com and follow/adapt the instruction set there> The 700 litre tank has a huge overflow (trickle filter-40Litres) to the sump. I plan on half filling with PVC pipe cuttings the rest with the bioballs. Put some new sandstone in the tank (not enough rock in old tank) <I would place live rock, macro-algae and lighting there myself... Pls read over the algae filtrations parts of the WWM site re> I was going to cycle normally for 4weeks (I have a fluidized bed in the 700L tank and chopped up PVC pipe in trickle filter to mature). and try get some live rock. <Ah, bingo!> Do water swap (say 100 litres) to put more mature water in new tank. Then move the hardiest fish one by one say a week at a time (I have 8 fish) and at the same transfer a few cups of bioballs into the new tanks sump. The rock I'll move when I can with inverts. Lastly move the corals and inverts. (only if all nitrates and ammonia zero) Please advise Regards Andrew <You can likely just move all the fishes, non-fishes in the first week... with pre-moving some/half of the established biomedia, substrate, water.... and placing some pre-cured live rock... This is what I would do. Bob Fenner> What to do?? Hi, I have a 46 gallon reef tank with lots of live rock, corals, inverts and fish. I live in an apartment now but will be moving to a house soon. My question is what is the best way to move the tank and it's inhabitants without losing everything in it?? >> Hmm, bunches of things to write here... And thank goodness in some of my few lucid moments I already did! Please download the article on "Moving Aquariums" located at www.wetwebmedia.com There I detail the tools, steps to completion of successful "translocations"... do start hunting up clean cans, boxes, liners/bags... and making/adapting my/a list of steps you'll be using to make this move with the greatest of ease. Having done a bunch of these "Bekins" jobs, I assure you they're not that tough, or hard on your livestock, as you may currently believe. Bob Fenner, who says, please write back if something seems still missing, errant. The big move Bob, I thank you for all your advice in the past. I'm sending this e-mail in hopes again for your help. My question is what's the best way to move a 70gallon and 55 gallon marine tanks. I'm moving out of my apartment into my 1st ever owned home, thus I need to try to keep the moving cost of these two tanks low but without sacrificing the fishes health. I'm not moving until April or May (depending on closing) but want to make sure I have a plan and everything I need in place well before hand. I'm overlapping the apartment and the house by a month , resulting I hope in a smoother move not only for me but the fish. I do have 120gal tank and equipment, brand new not being used that I hoped to replace my aging 70 gal. 1) do I start from square one on the new tank(120) setup? Or is there a way to transfer the 70 to the 120 . (70 equipment is rated for 120) 2) Do I move all the water in the 55gal tank? 3) basically what's the best way to move these two tanks and if I can make the move into the 120 gallon tank from the 70 gallon tank during the moving process? The 70 gallon tank contains: 45lbs of LR Copper banded Corel banded shrimp 3 peppermint shrimp green Bristol star blue lobster (sm. The size of ? long at best) Corel cat shark (sm 5-6 inches) Currently the LV is either in the corner and up on stilts (PVC Pipe) allowing the shark to swim under and curve his craving for digging. I realize he will be outgrowing the system shortly and hope to move him to 120 for a while. I plan to build a large enclosure for the shark in my new basement. I got the idea from two other systems and I plan on taking the best of both systems. I would actually love to discuss my thoughts about the system sometime in the future. If you be will. The 55 gallon tank contains: 45lbs of LV Yellow Tang V-Tail grouper Niger Trigger Thank you, for all of your help Bob. Your column is extremely appreciated here in Chicago. Rich Rittorno >> And thank you for writing, being an active part of this interchange. 1) Thank goodness for all your forethought and planning.... and the upcoming 120... I would set it up in advance (as soon as the place "is yours"... with some, much of the rock and substrate from the seventy... Move the livestock next week or so to it (the Shark will be eating some tankmates soon... this might be a/the time to make the big change-out of the other livestock...) 2) I think you mean should you save all the water from the 55... don't try moving much of anything but maybe the wet substrate in the tanks... Place the live rock and other decor in multi-lined trash bags... in clean boxes or cans... But do try to save the bulk of the water in a similar fashion (multiple banded closed at the top of course), and place it in the new and used tanks at the new site. 3) You can make the move pretty much as you and I seem to be inkling at... do take a look at the article on "moving aquariums" I have posted at www.wetwebmedia.com for a more complete rundown on gear and procedures for the big move... and let me know if I've left anything (critical) out. Bob Fenner, on his way out to give a couple of pitches this month in PA... and wishes he was coming back (maybe so!) to do the same this year again in the Windy City... see ya at Uno and Due! Moving with fish Bob, We plan to move in June, probably no more than 50 to 100 miles. We have a 100 gal. and 55 gal. with live rock in both. We have nine fish in all and three shrimp. Any suggestions for moving the animals and live rock? These items are my biggest moving concern at present. Thanks for your help. Tony >> Hmm, all sorts... for one, I'd move the larger/smaller tank first, set it up... move the livestock... and then move the other later... And many more suggestions (have moved many of these systems myself) in articles stored at the url: www.wetwebmedia.com on... Moving Aquariums! Good luck, and watch your lifting! Bob Fenner Moving experiences I've looked all through your answers
to everyone's questions and found a lot of good information. I
appreciate what you do for the new hobbyist and the old. I have
question that I haven't seen answered. I have a 65 gallon aquarium
with a wet dry filter (rated at 100 gallons) a protein skimmer for 75g.
The water quality is good. I have 1 3'' clown trigger, 1
3'' porcupine puffer, a 4-5" Volitans lionfish, and a
3" queen angel. All animals are healthy but I have to move. I need
to know how to go about moving the tank and not having to recycle it.
Thanks Adam Schrage >> Adam, thank you for your encouraging note.
There is much to caution and advise re such a move. Luckily, in a few
lucid moments I wrote an informational article and recorded our old
service company's "Action Plan" including tools,
materials and steps to completion for doing such a move. All are
archived on my free for all website, wetwebmedia.com
You're welcome to copy, adapt, adopt what you find there. Please
help me by amending this material and write if/when you have suggested
changes to it. Bob Fenner |
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