PumpSelMar3

FAQs about Gear Selection for Circulation 3

Related Articles: Pump Specification Chart (by maker/URL, power use, flow, head, fitting size), by James Gasta, Wavemaker Pump Specification Chart (by maker/URL, power use, flow), by James Gasta, External Water Pump Impressions: Move Some Serious Water By Steven Pro, Circulation, Aeration, Inexpensive Wavemaker Impressions, by Steven Pro, Water Flow, How Much is Enough, Marine System Components, Refugiums, Central Filtration, Flow-through Live-holding Systems, Refugiums, Business Set-Up,

Best thing to do here is to search online and find some people who have purchased them. Better to get many opinions and not just one.

Sump Hi Bob. <James for Bob today.> Thank you for your help. I think I will go with either 2 CPR CS50 or 2 CPR CS90 overflow boxes to the refugium, but what pumps are appropriate for return to the main tank? I can't find any that match the flow rates of those overflow boxes. Thank you again. <Joe, all that needs to be done is add a ball valve to the output of the pump and control the flow. Some of the Hagen power heads have adjustable flow rates. James (Salty Dog>

Picking (out) A Pump (for you)! - Sung to "I'm picking out a Thermos for you" I have seen several references to Oase Pumps as excellent pumps. Where can you buy these? Are you referring to the Aquamax 3700? Which Oase Pumps would you use if purchasing for your own system? <Well, Mike- I am not familiar with this particular brand of pump, myself. Do put a query out on the WWM Discussion Forum to see what your fellow hobbyists think of this line.> The Dolphin Ampmaster pumps look like a pretty good value as well? <They are very nice pumps, well known for efficiency and quiet operation. There were some issues at some point with bad seals, but I believe the company has resolved these issues, however, and they are wildly popular in the hobby.> Which would you personally prefer? <My experience with the two lines you mentioned is limited to the Dolphin Ampmaster 3000> Is the Mag Drive 36 as reliable (by that I mean longevity) as these other brands in your opinion? <I like the Mag Drive pumps. However, I have heard of some issues with heat transfer on the larger models. I am not sure if this is true, so do ask around. My favorite pumps are Iwaki, Sequence, and Dolphin. I like the quiet operation and efficiency of the Sequence, and the reliability of the Iwaki line. Do some checking and see what else is out there!> Thank you for your excellent site! <Glad to be hear for you! Regards, Scott F.>

Multiple Skimmers And Pump Selection (Pt.2) Thanks for the advice Scott, I have just a few questions left. <Ask away!> I will plumb both the Bullet 1 skimmers with one pump. The recommended pump for these skimmers is rated at 750 gph (Iwaki 40RLT) so I will need one pump at around 1500 gph. The Iwaki 70 would fit this range but I have never heard these pumps in operation. I am looking for a quiet pump. As I said before, I have used the Little Giant 4's before and felt they were loud. How does the Iwaki compare to the Little Giants? <I have heard both, and I think that the Little Giants might be a tad quieter than the Iwakis. Again, get multiple opinions on this! I would also give some strong consideration to the Sequence line of pumps. They are very reliable, quiet, and efficient. Do remember to ask for the saltwater safe seals, however.> I have heard that the Blueline is very quiet as well, they have an 1800 gallon model which I could tee off to the sump. Do you have experience with that brand? Which brands are generally accepted to be the quietest? <Usually, I hear (no pun intended) that Dolphin, Sequence, and the former Custom Seal Life "T" series are among the most quiet pumps out there.> Thanks in advance. Justin Kyllo <Glad to be of service! Regards, Scott F.>

- Return Pump - I'm setting up a 54 gallon corner tank w/built-in overflow SW FO. I'll use an Aqua Clear 125 wet/dry filter. I was thinking of using either the Mag 5 or Mag 7 as my return pump. The feet/head will be about 5'. Their specs say that the Mag 5 will pump about 250 GPH at 5'/head, and the Mag 7 will pump about 420 GPH at 5'/head. What do you recommend? <Well... I used to be a fan of these pumps, due to their cost. I've since learned by having enough of them fail in various ways that I always suggest that if you use them, buy two - have a spare. Other than that, I'd suggest as much circulation as you can afford, so go with the Mag 7.> Mitch <Cheers, J -- >

- Return Pump, Follow-up - Cost is not a factor, so is there a better return pump that you'd recommend. <Would recommend an Iwaki or Dolphin AmpMaster.> Thanks again, Mitch <Cheers, J --

Self winding mechanisms I was searching for the elusive Perpetual water wheel :o) and came across your site with this post: Re: Gravity driven water using no electricity Hello Bob, What I want is a Perpetuating system that carries the water (like in a Windmill) Uphill and deposits the water back into a Trough that sends the water back to the Wheel, and that pushes the wheel to carry more water to the top of the trough, and so on ....... <There is no such thing> I just can't find any blueprints or plans on ancient water driven windmills that do this. I know that the force of the water coming down the trough can push more than it's height.... <Umm, no> I just need some basic plans! Can You help??? Thank You, Ariana <Like "cold fusion", the second law of thermodynamics is yet to be misproven... you can't (as far as I'm aware) get more energy out of a system then you put in. The potential (gravity in this case) energy, converted to kinetic (1/2 mV squared)... water going downhill so to speak, will not generate surplus to somehow "pump" it back up... unless maybe you can convert the water via fusion? Bob Fenner> Fortunately I am one off those people that won't accept no :o) I came across this site From Australia, not sure if it can help the lady, it might have to be too big or too much work. http://www.earthgarden.com.au/waterwheel.html < http://www.earthgarden.com.au/waterwheel.htm> Or it might not move enough water to warrant the extra work. Now my query is: I am not looking at perpetual (bit more modest) but I intend to use a bilge pump from a yacht, (12 volt) with solar panels to recharge battery (trying to stay away from electricity companies) to run the wheel. Have you run across one of two things a: a pump to attach to the axle, to pump water to another separate feature? <Not yet> (Double the bang for your buck) or b: A supplement for the solar panels a small electric (like one of those torches that that you keep squeezing) motor running from the axle to help trickle charge the battery. :o) Maybe like the Dynamos I used to have on the bicycle to run the lights.... ahhh I will look into that. Or something else to act as a brake (that is also useful) otherwise the wheel will spin too fast (and noisy) Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Clayton Candy Rotorua New Zealand <Mmm, have been to Rotorua... with the HHH... stinky, but great folks. There are more and more energy efficient solar panels... this is the route to go presently... the humans here will figure out how to utilize the momentum of the planet... even the dipole moment... but this will be a few decades hence. Bob Fenner> Regards Clayton Candy Glad to see we had a affect on you even if it was just the smell :o) Trust me after a week you don't notice it :o) Yes Really!!!!!!! Have a good one Thanks Clayton <Thank you my friend. Wish I was there with you in the land of the long white cloud... the weather is bunk here in S. Cal. Bob F> Regards Clayton Candy

- The Wave2K, a Black, Ugly Thing - Hi WWM crew, I am considering to use the Wave2K unit (www.wave2k.com) in my new 65Gal setup, because it seems to give a surge flow that is according to your website and from the books of Fenner and Calfo the best flow for corals and sessile invertebrates. But this is big and BLACK :) <Is that so bad? The background of my tank is black...> The dimension of the unit is L16*H16*W2,5 inch. I can live with that fact, but I have more trouble with the fact that this is black! So I would like to know as long as this is plastic (I think) <Actually acrylic.> do you think I could paint it and if yes with which kind of paint? Thank you very much for your help guys! I love that website and the books of Fenner and Calfo!!! Steve T. <Cheers, J -- > Multiple Skimmer Setup and Pump Selection Hi guys, <Hi there! Scott F. your guy tonight!> Love your site. I'll be quick and to the point. I am setting up a new system, either 135 gallon or 180 gallon reef, depending on what I can arrange. They will have dual overflows of 1 inch holes. I looked at all types of skimmers and cannot see how making the body of a skimmer an inch wider and two or three inches taller makes it double the performance capability. I decided to purchase two Precision Marine Bullet 1 skimmers to work together on this tank. <Fine skimmers with a nice reputation...Two skimmers on one tank! You're MY kind of fish nut!> Now I have to decide how to power these skimmers. At first I thought I would use a Iwaki WMD-4ORLT for each skimmer and a pump for the return to the main tank. Noise is a consideration for me since it is in my family room and I read that these pumps (the 40's) are fairly loud? <As someone who used an MD40 for a few years, I can tell you that they were too loud for my taste. Amazing quality; built like an M1 tank, reliable as anything- but too darned noisy for me!> In the past I have used little giant 4's and felt they were loud. So my question is should I use one bigger pump for everything, or one for the skimmers and one for return to the tank or one for each skimmer and one for the return? <Well, you could conceivably use one powerful pump for everything, and create a manifold with ball valves to power everything, or you can work out a gravity feed as well. However, I'd recommend two pumps: One pump for the system, and another for both of the skimmers, teed off for maximum control. This way, you minimize disruption to the system if you have to do maintenance to one of the components, etc.> Basically, which is better, three small ones like t4's or something like an Ampmaster or Iwaki 100? <As stated above, Id feel better going with two pumps, myself.> Will it be difficult to plumb these Beckett skimmers to work properly with one pump? <It may require a lot of tinkering with the ball valves to get the right flow in there. Experimentation is just par for the course!> Best Regards, Justin Kyllo <Hope I was of assistance to you, Justin! Good luck! Regards, Scott F

Working url for Submersible Pump PP-333LV Hi Bob, I came across your helpful post in my search to replace the pump on my cat watering fountain. (Of course, now that I'm here the aquarium info looks much more interesting!) Anyway, I did find the pump: there was a character missing in the homepage URL for Chrystella USA: https://www.chrystella.com/xcart/customer/home.php?cat=248&js=y The pump is almost as expensive as a replacement fountain: $15.99 for the pump (+S&H?) v. $19.99 for a new fountain at PETsMART (including a new filter). Anyway, just thought I'd share this in case you get beseeched by more distressed cat people. Cheers! Jennifer <Thank you for this... bunk links are a bane of this info. world. Bob Fenner>

Pump size, selection I have a little giant submersible that is 300gph 1/4 output and 12.2 cutoff. I use it 2 hours to pump reserve water from basement up 10.5 ft through 1/8 tube at a rate of 10 gallons per day or 5GPH. The cutoff is about 11ft using 1/8 tube. What I am looking for is a pump that can pump the water up 15 ft through 1/4 tubing and just running for of couple hours a day. The other little giant submersible pumps which are stronger with the small 1/4 output also are oil lubricated submersible so I don't want to go that route. I was looking at the Mag 18 or Mag 24 submersible but was unsure of the effects on the head pressure and cutoff which would be caused sizing the output down to a 1/4. Is there a pump that is strong enough to push water up 15 ft through 1/4 at a rate of a couple of gallons a day? Brian <Mmm, well, there are pump, pump engineering businesses that would/could give a more definitive answer here... but am tempted to open up this query at least a bit and ask "why the quarter inch line?"... is this simply convenience for the existing through-puts? All that you perceive needing, wanting for the scant amount of water involved? The short answer is that the Mags should deliver sufficient pressure and not burn out... You can/should contact the manufacturer however re these issues: http://dannermfg.com/ Bob Fenner> Re: pump size The reason for the 1/4 tube from output is I didn't want to drill a big hole in the floor. <Ahh, a good reason> I asked http://dannermfg.com/ about using the existing 1/8 tube for a total of 15 ft and the response I got back is the mag 24 is powerful enough to push the water up 15 ft through a 1/8 but they would not recommend using 1/8. So 1/4 is about the biggest I can get away with or use 1/2 in the basement half then 1/4 to come through the floor. <The 1/4" is much larger... remember pi R squared for the surface area of a circle?> I was wondering how to calculate head pressure and cutoff due to tube diameter. <Mmm, complicated... I would accept Danner (Hello to Mike!) input here re what they've actually tested to be the cut-off head here... in any given diameter conduit> I saw the mag 18 caught up to the Mag 24 in GPH at the 15ft lift area on charts but that was using normal 3/4 tubing. I was looking at the head loss calculator at http://www.reefcentral.com/calc/ but was unsure of what friction factor to use. I seemed to get the same results as if the numbers I was using was too far off the scale. Thanks <The chart in question is only a reasonable generalization... as stated, for our purposes of discussion here, I would overshoot the size/model of pump at the given head... or consider a peristaltic pumping mechanism. Bob Fenner>

Not Finished with the Pump Thing Thanks for response. <Welcome> I have heard that some of the little giant heavy duty submersibles are dinosaurs as far as pond pumps go. <Yes... these... and most magnetic drive pumping mechanisms are more for flow than force/head/pressure> I was not concerned about the power consumption of the direct drive pumps as I only use it 2 hours a day but was concerned about the oil leakage possibility. <Minor> Is there another pump you would recommend other then the Mag series. Little giant seemed to be the only submersibles I found that were direct drive and a small output thereby reducing the amount I could impede performance by using a smaller then designed output. <Mmm, I would "cast your net" out a bit further... and ask on the various specialized BB's (Reefcentral, Reefs.org) re what other folks have found and actually used in this sort of application. Bob Fenner>

Science Fair Help...Pump Selection <Hello, Ryan helping you today!> Hi! I need help on my science project. I want to make a model of the circulatory system which is a closed system. Instead of just drawing the blood pathways, I thought it would be cool if I can use clear tubing and have some red-liquid (for blood) to go around and around. Is there a micro battery pump out there that I can use? I asked the pet store but they only sell air pumps. <I'd try and find what's called a powerhead. A company called Rio makes inexpensive products, no need to spend much for a pump that will only run a few days. Try and make your "blood" mixture with a little dissolved solids as possible...They may clog pumps. Liquid food coloring would be a good safe bet.> I need a small inexpensive pump that would cause the liquid to move around in a loop. Any ideas. Pls help!! <Use the powerhead, but take some tubing with you and make sure that it fits snugly...You can use Teflon tape to ensure a clean seal. It's also very cheap.> I want to have a COOL display for my science project. <And with great ideas like this, I'm quite sure you will. I'd love to see a picture of the final project! The best of luck my friend, Ryan> Thanks, trying to get an A+

Science Project Continued 1.13.05 Hello everyone and Ryan. I checked aquarium supply store for the Rio powerhead--we aren't allowed to plug anything to the outlets--do you know of any battery operated product that could move liquid in a closed circle of tubes <Hi, I have only heard of battery operated air pumps. Perhaps you could use something hand-driven to create the motion? Keep those creative juices flowing, Ryan> thanks again

Pump(s) for a Oceanic 200-gallon RR FOWLR Aquarium, actually overflows, pump/plumbing considerations Hello, <Hi there> Hope things are going well for you guys and gals. Please give me your recommendations for a pump to return water from my sump to a FOWLR aquarium. The Oceanic Rep. States the aquarium has a flow rate of 1400/2000 gph. The 2-return lines to the aquarium will be 3/4" PVC pipe and the drain lines will be 1" PVC with Durso Standpipes. <Uhh... two 3/4" inside diameter lines? I think the estimate of how much flow you can realistically expect from these fittings is dangerously over-expectant... Hear me out please... I would NOT design, install or maintain a system that did not have at least fifty percent redundancy in provided capacity here... that is, for example, if one drain line would do, I'd have two of the same size... You do NOT here... depending on how you rig your plumbing, what sort of screening you have over these two drain lines, you can be in GIANT trouble in short order... should one become occluded. DO consider your options... if it were me, my system, I would have it (re)drilled for at least two 1 1/2" inside diameter overflows (2" holes)...> Presently my options are to use 2-Iwaki MD30RLXT pumps (960 gph @4') with the outlet reduced from 1" to ?" or to use 2-Supreme Mag-Drive 12 pumps (950 gph @ 6'). <Stop! Do NOT reduce the discharge diameters... and please show this correspondence to whoever has been encouraging you to do so... what you are suggesting is akin to buying an automobile with excess horsepower and driving with the parking brake on... don't reduce the diameter of the plumbing from your volute/s. Again, if necessary, have the available hole/s re-drilled> The overflows are located on the corners of the aquarium. I am looking for pumps that are quiet, efficient, and dependable (who isn't, right). Should I use higher flow pumps and throttle-down the flow with gate valves or will that hurt the pumps. <Might... will increase waste heat production, your electric bills> I was also told I could add two more return lines to run along the back of the aquarium and use a larger pump. If you know of a better option, please suggest. The system will also have a refugium and Euro-reef Skimmer. This is the correct flow path, water to protein skimmer, to refugium, to pump, to aquarium or water to sump to protein skimmer, to refugium, to pump, to aquarium? Using a refugium will be new to me. <Mmm, a bunch to say. First, please read through our archived FAQs on Pump Selection: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/pumpselmar.htm and the linked files (above, in blue)... then the MANY FAQs on Sumps, Refugiums... you can find them indexed here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/index.htm You DON'T want to run this much, all the water through a refugium... maybe you can fit another sump for transit volume... Bob Fenner> Thanks, GDG

Pump for a sump and potential consequences Thanks for all of the great, CONSISTENT info; unfortunately the same can't be said for others. <Strive to discern facts from opinions, commentary... to understand underlying principles...> I have two questions, but first the background and some info I've received to date; I am purchasing a 75 gal. reef ready Oceanic tank and sump (model 1). I was informed that each 90 degree bend is equivalent to 2ft; <Two feet of what? Induced drag?> therefore the distance from my return pump to the end should be approximately 6ft (4ft plus one 90 degree bend). The overflow is outfitted with a one 1 inch drain that can supposedly handle 650-700 gallons per hour. <Mmm, okay... am tempted to make a crack like "I reach all the way to the ground". Will reserve the right to make such wisenheimer comments below> Question 1: There are several pumps (Eheim 1262, Mag Drive 9.5, Quiet One 4000) that are either a little below or above 600gph @ 6ft. Is it better to be above or below the gph? <Mmm. well, slightly above... but with a "throttling mechanism", likely a gate or ball valve... to not over-pump> I was informed that if it is above I should throttle down the return and not the drain. <Oh! I should read ahead> I'm currently leaning towards the Mag Drive 9.5 based on this information since it pumps out approx 700gph @ 6ft and I wouldn't have to throttle it down. If you could give me little wink on my pump selection it would be much appreciated. <Mmm, a consideration, question back to you... How important is noise here? If very, I'd go with the Eheim product> Question 2: Based on this set-up what are some precautions I should take to avoid any overflow due to power outages, etc. I have a 75 gallon tank (7 years) but no sump, so I'm new to this. <... Make sure to use the largest sump/s that will fit... measure the water level in same with the pumps switched off... and after running a few minutes and NEVER fill them up further than the lower mark.> Any help to my questions or clarification from information I received would be greatly appreciated. I have spoken to my local fish guy and Oceanic reps and I'm getting very different responses each time. Based on your FAQs some info I received was absolutely incorrect, hence my double and triple check. Nick <Good idea. Bob Fenner>

Re: Pump for a sump and potential consequences Yes, 2 ft of drag. I agree with your suggestion of the Eheim pump my concern is at 6ft (4ft from return pump to the top of the tank, plus one 90 degree bend=2ft "if correct") the Eheim is a little below the 600 GPH. Is this concern warranted? <Mmm, not in my opinion. The difference here would not be discernible> If the 2ft drag is not true than the Eheim would be good since the total distance is less than 6ft. Hope this clarifies the information I received.

Re: Pump for a sump and potential consequences (question posted by Nick, in the 01/07/05 daily FAQ) I just went through the whole "pump head pressure/delivery" investigation myself, and a friend explained it to me. <Good> The "feet equivalence" shown for fittings is *horizontal pipe feet*, not vertical head pressure feet. There's another conversion to do. <Yes> One-inch PVC pipe contributes a head loss of 13.4 feet per 100 horizontal feet of pipe; that is, every 100 feet of horizontal pipe is like having 13.4 feet of vertical pipe, with regard to the pressure source. Hence, for each horizontal foot of 1" pipe, it's the equivalent of pumping it vertically 0.134 feet (a bit over an inch and a half). <Bingo> A 90-degree elbow fitting for 1" PVC is the equivalent of 2.6 feet of horizontal pipe. With the 0.134 feet-per-foot head loss of 1" pipe, that's the same as adding four inches to the height you're pumping, not two feet. In other words, with four vertical feet between the pump and outlet, the pump will see 4'-4" of head pressure, not 6'. <A good approximation> If Nick still wants 650-700 gph at 4'-4", the Mag Drive 9.5 and Eheim 1262 are still the ones that exceed his requirements. At 4', the Mag Drive 9.5 is rated at 800 gph (the Mag Drive 7 is rated at 480 gph), and the Eheim 1262 is rated at just under 800 gph (the Eheim 1260 is rated at under 600 gph, but the chart wasn't clear enough to estimate more closely). Hope this helps! (Gee, I can finally contribute an answer instead of a question!) Glen <Outstanding. Thank you for your input, help. Bob Fenner> Centrifugal pumps damaging plankton? 12/29/04 Dear WWM crew, First off I would like to say that I have literally spent hours perusing your forums, enough that my wife groans when she sees me on the computer <glad to hear the former, not the latter... do take care of family first and foremost :)> Thank you for offering a great service. I have heard from a few different places in passing (mostly magazines, and in a couple of places on the WWM pages) that our common centrifugal pumps are limiting our ability to maintain significant zoo and phyto plankton populations in our aquariums, <actually, this is archaic information/belief based on some silly research with brine shrimp that was extrapolated to be applied to marine plankton. In truth, marine plankton act nothing like (salt lake) brine shrimp and suffer very little plankton shear. The point is also ultimately moot as the plankton come out just as edible on the other side :) If you were hungry, would you refuse a hamburger because you wanted a steak instead? <G>> and thinking about it makes sense that the plankton could be damaged by colliding with the volute of the pump. <you'd be amazed what commonly passes through... I have seen small fish make it numerous times> Since I cannot seem to find anything more than speculation on this subject I was wondering what y'alls opinion is. <it is only speculation and bunk at that. No worries on plankton shear> Do you think there is any benefit in trying a reciprocating or perhaps rotary pump? I am thinking that the non-uniform output of the reciprocating pump could have its advantages (more turbulent flow etc.) but more complicated design would lead to more maintenance. I would love to hear the WWM opinion on this subject. Thanks very much for your input Chad Miltenberger <hamburger 'til it hurts, mate. Anthony> How big of a pump for sump? Hi Bob, << Blundell today. >> First of all I would like to thank you for the advice u gave me for transporting the rocks. I have finally got the rocks and I have kept them for curing. I am planning to built a reef tank with the following dimensions : - Display Tank : Length : 72 Inches Width : 24 Inches Height : 24 Inches and a sump Length : 48 Inches Width : 24 inches Height : 24 Inches. I am thinking of buying a powerful powerhead / submersible pump to pump the water from the sump to the display tank. But I am unable to choose the best. The distance ( in height ) between the sump to the display tank should be around 4 feet. Can u help me in suggesting a good pump. << Any little giant pump or mag drive pump. I'd say around 1000 gph (250 lph) is what you are looking for. >> Regards Rajesh << Blundell >>

Tunze Streams....Serious Water Movement For Serious Hobbyists! Hello' < Hi there! Scott F. with you today!> First let me thank you for such an amazingly information packed website. It is obvious that you all love what you do immensely. <Glad that it shows, 'cause we sure do love it!> My question has to do with the new Tunze Turbelle Stream pumps and/or kits. Currently we have a 125gal reef tank, 2"lx20"hx18"deep, 150# live rock, plenum w/6" aragonite, sump (size?) w/skimmer. We are running 3ea Maxi-jet 1200's (295gph) and have a Little Giant circulation pump (795gph). The tank contains soft corals including Capnella, Nephthea, orange carnation, Ricordea, Palythoa, colt, Sarcophyton elegans, etc. It also contains several fish 7-10 y/o including a 7" Naso tank, 5" angel fish, 5" single-spot black damsel, yellow tang, etc which help with the random turbulent water flow. The Maxi-jets are due for replacement and would like your opinion on the Tunze.....they seem too good to be true! Thanks for your help, Margo Rose <Well, Margo, the Tunze Stream pumps are amazing...not too good to be true at all. These are not your usual "powerheads" by any stretch! I am a user and huge fan of them! However, there are some limiting factors that may affect your decision to use them in your system. First, they are not inexpensive, starting at over $100 for the "smaller" version, and over $400 for the Stream 6200, which moves an amazing 5,000+ gph at only around 65 watts of electrical consumption! Second, the very power that these pumps can bring to bear can make a mess of your sand bed if not properly oriented in your tank. They are best used with either the Tunze Single or Multi Controllers, which can help re-create natural current patterns within the tank. They can also literally strip the flesh off of corals if directed right at them; some soft corals will have other problems if he pumps are aimed right at them. All-in-all, however, these are some of the finest products on the market today; well worth the big investment, IMO. Do give them serious consideration if they are within your price range. Regards, Scott F.>

Pump Manufacturer Hi, <Hello, Ryan with you today.> I tried going to crystella.com about the pump that you had on your web site. All that came up was a little duck and the name Crystella. There was nothing to click on. I would like to get a replacement for it. Can you help me? <Hi, I'd contact the manufacturer of the pump to find a distributor, either locally or on the internet. We're in the business of answering aquarium questions, not selling pumps! Good luck, Ryan>

What is the best choice Mag12 or Mag 18? pump for ETS 700 skimmer ? Thank you for this opportunity . <Thank you for your participation> Would you please tell me what Mag drive pump would be the best fit for my ETS 700 36" high skimmer ? <Can and will> I can not have in line pump due to a space limits . I Like Mag drive pumps and it is now running on Mag 950 I know it needs more powerful pump the question is Mag 12 or Mag 18 ? <The 18 would be better... my biggest gripe with the ETS line of downdraft skimmers is just this issue... the too-high volume and pressure of pumping they require to operate well... However, if you don't mind the electrical operation cost, noise... they do work well> The Manufacturer recommends Iwaki with 700G/hr and is a pressure pump with cut off at 21 feet. The closest on is Mag 18 it pumps up to 21 feet however its delivering a little less then 1400 gal at 4 feet. Do you think Mag 18 would be too much ? <No... but I would either install/use a valve (likely a gate type for ease of adjustment) and/or (this is my real choice), divert the excess flow to recirculating the tank itself, running other gear...> Also I am reading from my skimmer manual that cutting off on a pump output is not recommended. <Cutting off? Can you explain this? Diverting water should not be an issue as long as the specified water flow, pressure is delivered to the unit. Bob Fenner> Thank you very much. Russell. Pump sizing for manifold setup? Hi there WWM crew!<hey> Thanks for all your endless patience and help, you guys are the best! I am anxious to try the manifold system that Anthony has described for water movement in the reef tank and need some advice on sizing the pump. I am setting up a predrilled 125g AGA tank (72x18x22) that will be for fish, LR and some assorted corals (still deciding on these but likely some shrooms, softies and possibly a somewhat hardy stony variety like Montipora??). Will initially be using 2 x 175w MH + 220w VHO actinic (plan on adding an additional 175 MH for total of 3 x 175 MH in 6 months or so. Does this sound reasonable lighting wise?). I would like to set up the manifold to be similar to a closed loop in that the water would come from the main display and be returned through the manifold system (ridding my tank of the ugly powerheads). I would have a separate pump running the sump to the tank return loop. I need to purchase a pump for the manifold and am stuck on sizing it. If I plan on running six water ports/tees on the manifold loop, what size pump (GPH) should I be looking for? I was thinking something like 1200 gph. <yea or maybe a little more gph...1600max I would say> Do you think this would be adequate?<yes> I want decent circulation but I am using fine sand and don't want too much sand blowing/drifting around (as much as possible anyway).<agreed> I know I can always super size the pump and throttle back but I'd like to save some $$$ on pump pricing and electrical usage as much as possible. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks, Brian

Circulation problems Adam! It's me again! One of my 3 SEIO 620 pumps died today -after a mere 3 months of operation. I just gave it a proper burial, and would like to do the same to the other 2 by the end of this year. These two are over 6 months old... First, I don't think with the swivel nozzle they were putting out anywhere near the claimed 620 gph output -about half that sounds reasonable. Second they vibrate a lot. I have a bunch of dead spots in the rear corners of the aquarium with this scheme... My goal is to eliminate dead spots that are inherent with 2 power heads -very poor circulation just under the power heads... Plus I don't want noisy ugly powerheads anymore. I seem to have two choices. Choice A: A pair of Tunze Turbelles stream pumps at either end of the aquarium, each rated at 1600gph. Sounds good on paper, but I may still have dead spots under the pumps and they will still be unsightly. << Yes, but dead spots aren't bad as long as you have a high volume flow and the surface of the water is moving. >> Choice B: Manifold return with a 900gph Eheim pump - Maybe two of them in parallel -they cost about the same as the Turbelles. The problem here is that I have a 72G bow front tank and since they don't sell curved PVC pipes at Home depot, I won't have a closed loop! ...just an 'E' shaped manifold with the tubes running along the back and sides and one under the center brace! And the total circulation numbers will still be a lot less than the Tunze, especially since the Eheims will have a 5-3 foot head to work against. At this point they are down to 750 gph. << This is only partially true. They have that 5 feet to work against, but they also have 5 feet of water above pushing down with positive force. They lose (if built properly like a closed loop) very little pushing power. I think a closed loop system is the way to go. You don't need curved pipe, just build it like you would for any other tank. >> Occupants are 1 Kole tang, 1 Ocellaris clown, 1 Fridmani Pseudo Chromis, 2 Lysmata Amboinensis, 1 small xenia (in QT) and 1 Capnella (in QT), plus live rock critters.... No additions are planned, except maybe more Xenia if this one grows. What do you think? As always, I'm grateful for your assistance. <> Narayan PS: If you are ever in the Rhode Island area, please feel free to call 401-886-XXXX... << Will do. Thanks >> << Blundell >>

Pumps, water noise, type/selection I am curious to know that if I changed pumps (I'm currently using an Eheim) would that reduce the noise of the pump. <Mmm, not likely... Eheim's pumps are superbly made, quiet> Because the Eheim has so much power, I need to use two u-tubes so the overflow can keep up with it which causes the overflow noise to be loud and occasionally it overflows because of all the foam I put in it to keep it quiet. <Ohh, it's not the pump, but the water flow, falling that is creating the noise... You can/could throttle back the flow... with a valve for instance... or trade the pump in for a smaller, lower-flow model...> It creates a considerable amount of vibration noise as well. I don't have a lot of room in my sump so my pump, skimmer pump and skimmer are all squeezed together. Do you have any thoughts on this situation that might help? Thank you, Laura <Is this a submersible model? I'd look into one of these instead, if not. Bob Fenner>

- Pump Noise - I am curious to know that if I changed pumps (I'm currently using an Eheim) would that reduce the noise of the pump. <Well... two things come to mind - first, change to what? All pumps are different, some more noisy than the other - which were you thinking about? Secondly... of all the pumps out there, Eheims tend to be the quietest... so I'm not sure what I'd recommend to you if you find the Eheim to be too noisy.> Because the Eheim has so much power, I need to use two u-tubes so the overflow can keep up with it which causes the overflow noise to be loud and occasionally it overflows because of all the foam I put in it to keep it quiet. It creates a considerable amount of vibration noise as well. I don't have a lot of room in my sump so my pump, skimmer pump and skimmer are all squeezed together. Do you have any thoughts on this situation that might help? <Well... perhaps just learn to accept the outcome of your choices. It sounds to me like this Eheim pump is noisy because it's vibrating against other equipment. I'm not sure any pump would behave differently in the same location... all pumps vibrate. You could try other models but really, Eheims are pretty much the best you can get in those sizes. Perhaps you now know what you would do differently if you were setting up a new, larger system...> Thank you, Laura <Cheers, J -- >

What pump to use for a sump? I am setting up a 75 gallon reef ready tank w/ a 29 gallon sump. I intend on using a Mag drive pump, but I need help figuring which model to use. What gph would be best for my setup? Thanks for your time and consideration. << Something around 1200 gallons per hour head pressure. I'm not sure what model number that would be. >> Monty << Blundell >>

Plumbing a sump Hi Blundell just a few more questions. I have 2 overflow boxes in my 137 gallon tank which are rated at 800gph giving me a theoretical total of 1600gph. What sort of kind of return pump should I get for this? << Well you can't get too much flow. I'd look for a Mag pump or little giant that will do around 1200 gph. >> The height to the tank is about 55". Should I get a pump that is rated at, say, 1900 to 2000 gph to make up for the height or should I get a pump rated less than the 1600gph from the overflow boxes? << Most pumps will say what they are rated for at different heights. When in doubt to prevent an overflow just get one rated 1600 or less. >> Don't want to flood my tank or my sump. Second, any good recommendations for submersible pumps? I have a new Sequence Barracuda but plan to install this as a closed loop system with the ocean motions 4 way. <> Could I possibly use the Sequence as the return pump and channel the return water from the sump to the ocean motions 4 way or will the pump be too powerful for it? It is rated by Sequence at "Medium Head Pressure at 1200-3800gph". What exactly does this mean and can I use this as my return pump? <> Thanks a bunch! Martin << Blundell >>

Pump question G'Day mate <Hey Hugh, MacL here with you today.> doing a school design and tech project and I am just wondering have you seen a pump that pumps both air and water at the same time ?? <Most of the pumps made for aquariums have the ability to connect with air hoses, I'm pretty sure Rio pumps for sure do and there are other brands. There are multiple online sites that carry pumps Hugh. Let me know if you have difficulty finding one. MacL> if so where would I get one from thanks heaps from Hugh This e-mail contains proprietary information , some or all of which may be legally privileged. It is for the intended recipient only. Pumps How do the Mag 18 pumps compare to the Iwaki WMD40RLXT, both are rated at about the same gph but I'm not sure how good the Mag pumps are? (they are cheaper) does the rule apply "YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR". Which would you recommend? <The Iwaki brand is generally considered top of the line by most aquarists. That being said I love my Mags, I have a Mag 12 and a Mag 18 and have been very very pleased with them. MacL> Thanks Water pump recommendation 11/5/04 Hi Anthony how are you? <I'm still short, dumb and happy :) Thanks for asking. Oh... and I'm still sarcastic, if not witty (trying), at times <G>> Can you help me again. I need to choose a return pump for my reef tank this is my tank. 48x15x18. I have in mind two. Iwaki, or Little Giant but I do not know which one. I thank you again Genaro. <I am sure the Iwaki is a better value and will almost certainly last longer (get the Japanese made motor). But if you need a more affordable pump right now (initial buy-in) and suspect you will outgrow this pump/tank in less than 5 years... the Little Giant might serve you well. I have used and enjoyed both myself. Anthony> - Pump Selection - Mag 18 or the Iwaki (wmd40rlxt). are Mag pumps good? They are a lot cheaper for the flow. Thanks, Nels <Personally, while I've endorsed Supreme Mag pumps in the past, I think I'm over them at this point. I do agree that their price point makes them attractive but I've had too many become erratic after six months in service - most typically they fail to start after they've been powered off. I have never had this problem with the Iwaki pumps. My only suggestion would be to purchase the Supreme Mag pumps in lots of two, so that you have an immediate replacement should the main one let you down. Cheers, J -- > Lighting and other questions I just purchased a 48 inch 260 watt lunar light from j&l aquatics in Vancouver 2 Coralife SP 65W 10000K Bulbs and 2 Coralife SP 65W Actinic Bulbs. for the other 24 inches I put a 130 watt power compact. will this light permit for all soft corals and maybe a deresa clam. << Soft corals yes, clam no. >> The tank is 18 high 72 and 24. I also was looking at purchasing a quiet one 4000 pump. I was told by J&l that this would be good for my tank. Is this a semi quiet pump and reliable? << Best thing to do here is to search online and find some people who have purchased them. Better to get many opinions and not just one. >> I was thinking of a Malu anemone but I don't think there will be enough light am I right? <> What's the best anemone for false Percula clowns? << Xenia, but if you really want an anemone I really like E. quadricolors even thought they aren't natural hosts. >> also how deep should the sand bed be? << How about four inches. >> I was just going to use 1 inch of Aragamax select will this be ok? <> thanks for your valuable time ( I know I couldn't answer all these questions you guys get) << Blundell >> AGA Dual Overflow Hi, I am new to Lg. Saltwater setups so sorry if this sounds dumb. I ordered from a local store a 125 AGA with dual overflows that are rated at a max flow through of 600 gph per overflow. The store is telling me that I need a pump rated at 2400 gph for each overflow, is this correct? It sounds like over kill? That would mean if I used one pump it would have to be 4800 gph... wouldn't the tank fill faster than it could empty? <Mmm, yes... even discounting for less than rated "performance", head, induced drag in the plumbing lines... I would NOT get/use a pump with more than 1,500 gph rating> Sorry for a stupid question! Kerrie <Doesn't seem stupid to me... Bob Fenner, who has mopped, vacuumed up many, MANY gallons of water from floors>

1 or 2- 1/2 pumps One 1500 gph pump or two 800 gph pumps is there a difference? Which is better? Thanks <Good question... all things not being equal, if both types of pumps are of "decent" serviceability, the single larger pump is a better choice... but it would be a good idea to have another as a back-up if the one fails... Bob Fenner>

Sump and pump question Super website by the way. I have been reading you articles and FAQ for years, this is the first time posting a question. Here is my question. I am getting a new sump built. It will hold almost 60 gallons of water for my 135 gallon Live rock five fish tank. I am in the process to re-do it all over. My sump will be 15 gallons for the skimmer area (using a CS8-3), 15 gallons for the return area and 24 gallons for the refugium. with a head of 5' I need to know a good internal or external pump and I think I have about close to $150.00, but if need be I can bring it up to $200.00. If I go with the external, I need to let the person building the sump, know, so I can make the proper modification. I need help bad please advise, soon. <Sorry for the delay just got this today. MacL> Carlos The reef rookie Do pods survive powerheads? Hello, I hope this hasn't been asked before. I look in FAQs and didn't see anything about diaphragm pumps. Does anybody make them for aquarium use? << For water or for air? For water, I don't believe so. >> I am starting a refugium for my 90 gal and need to get a return pump. Do the various pods, rotifers survive the trip through an impeller? << Yes they do. In fact I think everyone uses impeller pumps for sumps. >> Hope you can shed some light on this for me. Thank you << Blundell >> - Which Pump - Hi, I am running a Del Ray 125 wet dry filter. My tank is a 100 gal, Fish only. My question is what size return Pump do I use. Will a Rio 3100 work or a 2500. <I'd go for the larger pump, perhaps larger even than a Rio 3100.> The flow will also go through a 12X Turbo Twist UV filter. <Would suggest that you loop this through it's own pump... a flow rate of even the 2500 at full bore won't kill much of anything in this unit.> I don't know what will work the best. Please Help. <Cheers, J -- > Sizing Up The Proper Pump! Good Morning: <Hi there! Scott F. here today!> I want to use a GenX 2400 series pump with a height head about 48", as my return, and then I would need a pump for a venturi protein skimmer max capacity of 76 Gallons. On the box it instructs me to use a pump with a 300gph. My question is, what pump would work well with this skimmer? <When sizing pumps to skimmers, I will almost always defer to asking the manufacturer what pump they recommend. The manufacturer is your best source on this one, and I encourage you to contact them! Sorry!> Q#2 What size return pump should I use as a return into a 46 gallon tank with a height head about 3'. <All depends on the animals that you intend to keep, and how many tank volumes you want to turn over per hour. If your like a lot of folks, you want maximum flow, so I'd shoot for a pump that does between 750 to 1050 gph, minimum, such as an Iwaki MD40 or MD55. I like Iwaki because of their long-term reliability and quality. There are many others out there, of course, so do look/ask around> Would the answer to the protein skimmer work with this pump also or is the protein skimmer pump a separate issue? <Personally, if you could swing it, a dedicated protein skimmer pump is best, IMO. Good luck! Regards, Scott F.> Novice. Any info is welcomed.

Can I pump water up from a basement sump to my tank? 7/29/04 Hi Crew, << Blundell here. >> I will be moving to my new house this Friday and I was looking forward to being able to setup a more accessible filtration system for my 180g reef tank. My plan was to remove the cramped sump and refugium setup from my aquarium stand and to run the overflow and return lines through the floor to the basement, where I would keep a larger refugium. After further consideration, I realize my return pump will have very little flow as a result of pumping to a 10'-12' head. Do you have any recommendations for overcoming this obstacle -- aside from simply buying a larger (and much more expensive) pump? << Well I've seen people try to make a two stage set up for getting back up. Basically one pump pumps up half way, then a second pump in that tank pumps up the rest. I don't like this idea at all. I would just buy a very nice external pump. It is worth it, considering all the benefits you get from the sump in your basement. >> I am currently using a MAG 18 pump so, to keep approximately the same flow to the display tank, I have only found a MAG 36 or some very large pool-style pumps that would still provide at least 1,800 gph flow at 12' of head pressure. Even at that, nearly 50% of the pump's potential flow will be lost as heat and I assume this will also provide additional shear damage to 'pods from my refugium. << An external pump is the way to go, and I don't believe they will damage your pods. They get sucked and blown through so fast that there really isn't time for damage. >> Do you have any suggestions for a good (not overly expensive) pump that would provide adequate flow at this height? <> I have also considered using a pump similar to what I have to simply pump the refugium/sump water up one story to a sump in the tank stand. The existing MAG 18 would then continue to provide return flow from this sump to the tank. Although this would result in the same flow as I have today, the filtration flow (from the basement refugium & wet/dry) would be much less and I do not know if this would provide adequate filtration or oxygenation (since the skimmer would also be in the basement). Managing two overflow systems could also increase the potential for leaks or floods. << Definitely, floods will happen. >> What do you suggest as the best approach to 2-story plumbing? << A good friend of mine has done the same thing. His two options where to use two pumps at the bottom and pump all the way up, or buy one big pump. He is very pleased with his decision to buy one big pump. >> Thank you for the help! --Greg << Blundell >>

Picking A Pump... Hello folks <Hey there! Scott F. here today!> I'm stepping up from a 30 gal to a 75 gal reef tank. <Cool!> I am building a sump/refugium out of an old 20 gal. My problem is pump size. One LFS said a Mag 18 would be best, another said I will be running my sump dry at this flow rate and should use a Mag 9.5 at the most. I had already ordered the 18, so now I am not sure what to do? <Well, my thought is that you can always use a ball valve to dial down the flow from the pump; perhaps you can divert it to a skimmer, or elsewhere in the system. The Mag 18 is a lot of flow for a sump alone, though...> My tank is drilled 1 1/2 inches for the over flow by the people who recommend the Mag 18. Could I not put a valve to control flow? Or possibly tee off at the pump with a valve that would return water back to the pump AND up to the tank? <We're on the same wavelength What affect would these "solutions" have on pump life? My head will be about 4 feet and the Mag 18 is rated at 1300gph at this head. Plus I will have several 90s going to the tank which should decrease flow, correct? <Yes- such plumbing components can affect head, thus reducing output...> I also realize that the sump is small, but that's all that will fit in the cabinet. <An eternal problem, unless you're able to plumb in a remote sump (requires space, money, and an understanding spouse!> Very confusing! I do plan to set the system up in driveway and test all components for things like a power failure and if my sump will overflow etc. What about a check valve in the return line? I am totally lost at this point! HELP! Mark <Well, Mark- I have never been a big fan of check valves, as they are still potentially prone to fail with possibly catastrophic results. Better to design your system sump to accommodate a full "drain down" to the lowest level of your skimmer box's teeth, which will provide capacity to do the job. There are lots of great sources on the WWM site and on the net (like ozreef.org) about designing plumbing systems, etc. Good luck! Scott F.> Pump Heat (7/19/04) Dear WWM crew, <Steve Allen here.> You guys have been so helpful in the past. I hope you guys and gals never choose a different hobby. <We share a common and strong interest in aquaria, some for decades. We're not going anywhere.> Thanks a million. I have only one small question. My externally plumbed Mag 7 is keeping my water temperature in the red zone. Please please pleease, tell me some external pump recommendations that do not add heat to the water more than a few degrees if any at all. I have posted some forums on the web and I can't get any real feedback. Noise, reliability and price are no longer a factor. I have no room or money for a chiller and my A/C is almost non stop. BIG THANKS from Indy.

Pump recommendation Hello all and thank you for the great site you have. I am a regular visitor and have used your site for a lot of my decision. I am wanting to see what you would suggest for me to get. I currently have a POS CA pump that I am using for my return from my sump. This unit does not move anywhere near enough water and has problems starting back up after it is turned off for any reason. <A pain... have had this experience myself.> I am currently looking at a Quiet One 4000HH pump to use for my return. I am needing good water movement at a head of around 5' or so. Could you recommend a good pump for me to use. <I do know this pump has recently gone through a design/supply change - the earlier models we're ideally suited to saltwater aquaria... am not familiar with the new ones, but hopefully Pentair has learned from their past experience.> I have a 55G reef tank with lots of polyps, mushrooms and rose bulb anemones. I am currently using a SCWD to switch the return from side to side in the tank. I saw where you recommend having about a 15 x tank capacity for water movement. <Ideally, even more would be great but you don't have to accomplish this all with one pump... can be done just as easily with a medium sized return pump and powerheads inside the tank. Think there is an Eheim pump out there that might suit your needs - these are very efficient with the electricity.> Also the CA pump is putting way to much heat into my water and is a bit noisy. Please let me know what you think. <Are many choices out there, best to check into one of the many reef forums out there and get opinions from folks about what they are using.> Thanks. Wayne <Cheers, J -- >

- Pump Selection - Hi WWM Crew, I have a question regarding a return pump for my new 135 gallon tank. I am planning on having it drilled and adding 2 built in overflow boxes to the tank with 4 holes. I have been reading your website every single night researching the pump and various other equipment. I know the Eheim's come with a high recommendation from you all but I'm not sure if it has enough flow for my system. The Eheim 1262 states about 850gph at 2 feet of head. I am comparing this to the Little Giant (which comes highly recommended from my LFS) 4MDQX-SC which states 1200gph at 2 feet. I know Eheim has great other products and a superb reputation I'm just not sure if it strong enough. I appreciate any advice you can offer me here. <You're probably looking at a the Little Giant or Iwaki pumps - there just aren't that many options in the Eheim line for you for circulation on a tank of this size.> Thank you for your help. Sheila <Cheers, J -- >

Moving Water! (Pump Selection) Hi!!!! <Hi there! Scott F. here today!> Have learned a tremendous amount from reading the daily questions and replies. I have a 125 AGA with home made internal overflows. They are 12 x 5 with slots cut. The slots create a total over flow area of aprox 9" linear inches with 1.5" drains in each corner overflow and .75" returns. How much flow do you think I will get into my sump with this arrangement and if not enough should I cut a few of the notches out to create more linear overflow area? <I'm guessing that you'd be able to pull at least 1100 gph or thereabouts...You could always cut out some of the "teeth" from the overflow if you are not getting the flow that you want.> The pumps I have been looking at for the overflow return is either a Iwaki MD55RLT or a Blueline 55HD. Have heard much about the Iwakis but nothing much on the Blueline? I will also be putting in a closed loop system with a 1.5" drain and (5) .75 returns. What size Iwaki or Blueline pump would you recommend? <I'd go for an MD55RLT or an MD70...Go for the flow!> Also is it true on a closed loop system there is no head loss as in returns from sumps? <Essentially, none, or very little, depending upon your plumbing geometry!> I truly appreciate you time and responses. Thanks Jim McCauley <My pleasure, Jim. Good luck! Regards, Scott F>

Getting Pumped in the UK >Hi there crew. >>Hello Simon, you've got Marina today. >Hope you don't mind me firing this one at you as I am trying to upgrade my tank and all the equipment but it seems I will need to rob a bank or two first!!.... >>Not at all. >I have just enquired about the price of an Iwaki Mag drive (MD400) pump, to pump approximately 2000 GPH. I want to know if these prices are comparable in the States because I have to visit there this fall and will buy one whilst there if need be. >>Before even checking, I'd say likely not. >The Mag drive pump from Iwaki UK is (and get this) ?755.00 +P&P This equates to in (American) terms, i.e. you earn twice as much as we do and the dollar is $1.92 to a ?1. >>You do realize, don't you, that if you lot had gone and joined the EU you'd be using the lovely Euro and you'd be on par with the U.S. $$? Oh, how I love rubbing it in.. no, really. >Therefore this will equal over three thousand Dollars. Plus of course postage and packing! >>Um, do you get a tube of lubrication with that over there in the UK? >Do you lot really spend that much money on a pump for your marine tanks??? >>Only for the really big ones. >I would love to know. Or can you tell me where I can buy a good pump in the UK at something resembling a reasonable price? >>Can't help you very well on the location bit, other than trying an eBay sort of thing. What I've found is the following: http://www.customaquatic.com/customaquatic/brandsubcategory.asp?brandID=IK&subcatID=wp-aq Closest American available product I can find is the following: http://marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=IK1183 >>This outfit is actually quite close to me, but it's not as though we could just send you one and you can plug it in. >Thanks again you wonderful lot. Simon. >>Sorry we couldn't be of more help to you, my friend. Marina

- Jebo Pumps - just got a fountain with a Jebo submersible pump pp-399 120V .23A 60Hz. Can anyone tell me how much water this unit will pump? I am connecting several small ponds together. Thank you <I'm afraid I do not have any specs on this pump. Would suggest you enter the model number into your favorite Internet search engine and go from there. Cheers, J -- >

Going Larger - UPGRADING 4/2/04 Hi Guys, Short question here. I currently have a 100 gallon reef tank using a refugium for my filter. (I mainly keep tangs and a few corals). I wont go into lighting etc.. as my question in basically on the new setup I am getting. I just ordered a 200 gallon oceanic tank (8 ft long x 24 x 24). The tank has a double overflow boxes. Should I run one large sump that I wouldn't be able to get out easily once it is in or should I run two sumps - one on each overflow box? <If you run two sumps, you must connect them. If you run two unconnected sumps, and one of the pumps stops, that sump will overflow since the other will continue to pump water up to the tank while part of it is draining to the sump with the broken pump.> Also, what do you think about adding a few holes in the upper back for additional pumps coming from the sumps or closed loop for more flow (instead of power heads?) <Extra holes are a great idea for many reasons, but it would have been very advisable to order the tank with the holes pre-drilled. Keep in mind that wherever you drill the lowest hole, that is where the tank could potentially drain to in case of a leak. Placing the holes up high and then plumbing down to where you want the inlet or outlet to be is much safer.> I am looking at Nemo or Shea pumps for my main returns and Mag 24 or something for the holes in the back instead of the power heads. Any other tricked out ideas I came to try them. Thanks, Steve <I am not familiar with Nemo or Shea pumps. Do consider Sequence for their high flow rates and low noise and power consumption and better reliability compared to equivalent Dolphins. In general, I prefer external only pumps like Iwaki over submersible types like mag drives for better reliability and less heat transfer. Best Regards. Adam> Wanted: The Strong, Silent Type (Pump, That Is) Hello, I have been reading the faq's for hours and I am bleary eyed and still unable to make a decision regarding a different pump. I have a new 150 gallon setup and the pump it came with is an extremely loud Little Giant 4 MDQ-SC pump. I can't handle the noise, it ruins the whole relaxing nature of the aquarium. I thought my 55 gallon tank was loud but this makes that one seem silent. So I was reading the different opinions and it seems like the consensus is that the Velocity pumps are the quietest although have some problems with priming and heat output. How many degrees of heat are we talking, probably not any more than the little giant, right? <To be honest with you, I've never seen a study done on that. I can imagine that it's more significant in a smaller tank> Also, it seems the T3 would be equal to the Little Giant both rated at around 800 gph at 3 ft. But is the Velocity a pressure rated pump as well, or would I get less out of it than the Little Giant? I have dual overflows of 1 1/4" and 2 3/4" returns. It seems to be equalized pretty well right now between sump and tank with the Little Giant. Also, I believe the T3 has the same MPT/FPT as the l.g. so would fit in with the plumbing I have. But would I want to get the T4 because of the T off of the returns, I also have a gate valve on there, but it is wide open with the Little Giant I have. <Yeah- I'd go with the T4, myself> If it has hose barb fittings, can't I just convert what I have to that, or is that difficult? <Wow- I'm not even certain if this can be done. You may want to consult the dealer who sells the pump> Anyhow what would you recommend as the quietest pump with the fewest drawbacks? Thank you in advance, Kylee <Well, the quietest, most consistently powerful pump that I have experienced is the Dolphin series, particularly the "Ampmaster". An amazingly quiet pump; one that gives you serious flexibility. Do verify the connections on the pump that you are considering, and make sure that it fits your plumbing scheme. Good luck! Regards, Scott F.>

Pump Question - 3/28/04 And of course great for all the advice you guys give out. I don't know where I'd be without it! You saved me a lot of headaches... My question is I have a 72 Gallon Bow Front tank that is 48X22X12. I was debating over having a internal sump pump or external. Do you know of any advantages or disadvantages to having the pump in sump or external? <well documented in our wetwebmedia.com archives if you'll take the time to read/browse and educate yourself. The gist of it though is that external water pumps are generally longer lasting and impart less heat to the water> I see that some external pumps require less amps of power but wasn't sure if this is consistent, any ideas? <by brand... seek more reputable ones like Japanese made Iwakis> Also I was going to look for something around 1200GPH, do you feel that is adequate? <very nice> I was going to split off the return into two returns on either end of the tank. <not bad... but better to have more outlets (adjustable even better). See my article in the archives on closed loop manifolds to accomplish this> The stand is about 3feet from the bottom of the tank. Oh ya do you know of a good Metal Halide brand bulb for 10000K? <Ushio and Aqualine are two of the very best... also well documented in our FAQs> There are so many out there I don't know which are the best or preferred. And the same for VHO's? <they are not needed for coral health... blue actinics are just an aesthetic addition> Any good solid brand? <URI brand is tops> Thanks again for all your help, I hope to start actually putting this tank together when my research is done. Jason <best of luck. Anthony>

Pump recommendation 3/28/04 I have a 240 gal tank to set up as a reef. It is a tall design. Total head pressure will be about 10 feet. It will be located in a living area. What would you recommend as a good choice of pump to give sufficient flow but also produce minimal noise? <seek a Japanese made Iwaki that does 4000-5000 gph at that head (be sure to drill enough overflow holes to handle this flow)> It came with a Little Giant 4-mdsqx but it is rather noisy. <not as quiet, strong or long-lasting> Thanks L Mathies <best regards, Anthony>

Pump Size and Overflows Dear Bob and Crew, <Scott F. your Crew member today> How do you guys rate the Mag Drive pumps in terms of reliability? I was thinking of getting the MD24 for a 75 gallon with 55 gallon sump. I was hoping 4, 1" bulkheads could handle 1900 gph. Do you think I'll be ok?

What size pump? 3/19/04 Hi, We are in the process of starting a 90 gallon salt water tank with a 20 gallon wet/dry filter below. We are getting 75 pounds of Tonga Eve rock and want to know what size pump we should get. We were told to use a 1200 mag drive, Will this be too strong or is it ok? We also have a venturi protein skimmer that will be connected with this pump.. How many power heads will we need to use in this tank? <There are a lot of factors that affect these decisions, and they affect each other as well. If you use a larger return pump, you will need fewer powerheads. If you run your skimmer on a dedicated pump (recommended) you will need a smaller return pump. Ideally, you want a total of 10-20x the tank volume in water movement. If you use a mag1200 return pump (maybe 900 real gph after head losses), you will be at the low end of water movement. If you are running a skimmer from the same pump, you may want a mag1800 or even 2400. IMO, the best solution is an appropriate pump dedicated to the skimmer, a mag1200 return, and perhaps another small water movement device or two. Keep in mind that you will need at least a 1.5" drain to handle the mag 1200 flow. Best regards. Adam>

Pumping Up The Volume Without The Heat! Alright- I've been thinking a lot about my 125 I'm putting together, and I was wondering if you can help me choose the perfect pump for it. <Scott F. here- feeling no pressure!> I want to get a pump on the outside of my sump and use the bulkhead drilling I have that's just covered up right now. Today a good fish buddy of mind came into my work, and we were talking about my tank setup; After long hours of looking around I found 2 models I really like the Iwaki MD70RLT which pushes around 1500 GPH; So "T"eed off on a dual predrilled 125 will push about 1200. Also I liked the Little Giant Quarium pump 4-MDQ-SC which pushes about 900, but ran along with my CAP pump I have now would do about 1300 GPH. After telling him about my two choices he told me that he owned the Little Giant pump and it put out a lot of heat, where the only way I could run it is with a chiller. <Well, most pumps will impart some heat to the water...Some more than others. I have heard this before regarding Little Giant pumps, but I've always ran chillers in my reef systems, so I couldn't really confirm this for you.> But we have Iwaki pumps running my store tanks, and well beside when I put my hand on the motor it feels pretty cool; So I was wondering if Iwaki has what it takes to push my tank. Also on another note, they make a pump that pushes 2000 GPH where I could modify my overflows to handle the extra water flow due to the fact my sump is rated for a 250 gallon tank; But would you think that would be necessary, because I really don't want extra powerheads in the tank? I just want to "T" off both return ends with two flare nozzles each to allow water movement at the top/middle and middle/bottom. So I guess to sum it up, would you think Iwaki pumps will over heat my system; And with my idea would you go with the 1500GPH or 2000GPH pump? <Any pump can contribute excess heat to a system, as indicated before. However, it's not something that I would be overly concerned about. I'm more concerned about heat imparted by high intensity lighting systems (i.e.; halides). If your overflows and plumbing can handle it, it's never a bad thing to go with a larger capacity pump, in my opinion. You can, as mentioned above, always dial down or tee of the excess flow...May take some tinkering> Thanks so much for the advice this setup has been driving me nuts, because I just want to get it right the first time. -- Nathan M. -Turnover confusion!- I am setting up my 90 gallon drilled All Glass tank and I have been given conflicting information by two different retailers and the All Glass website. <Ok, hope I can make some sense out of it for you.> I am hoping you can clear up my confusion. I checked all the FAQ's and just became more confused. <Uh oh.> The first retailer sold me the tank, a bioball/sump filter and a submersible pump rated at 1800 gpm. This comes out to a turnover rate of 20 water changes per hour <I'm going to guess this is a mag since you refer to a 950gph pump later. If it is so, then the 1800gph rating is at zero feet, so after applying some easy head pressure calculations, you will get several hundred gallons less than that.> , but he said more is better. The second retailer told me the 1800 gpm pump is too much for the tank, and that the 1" bulkhead and overflow system would not be able to supply water fast enough to keep up with the pump, and that I would end up with an empty sump and a sucking pump. <Yep, AGA 90's come with one overflow, and i believe (but not sure) that the max it can handle is around 800gph. That pump is way too big.> He recommended a 950 gpm pump and said that was consistent with recommended turnover rate of 10 water changes per hour. <This one is more reasonable, you may still have to gate it back a little bit.> All Glass's website says the single Megaflow overflow system on the 90 gallon tank is rated for a maximum flow through of only 600 gph, then goes on to say "Using a 2400 GPH pump" What does this mean? <No idea, but make sure you take a good look at the pump curve that comes with each pump. It shows you how much flow the pump will produce at various head pressures. Besides the obvious 4' or so that the pump will have to literally push the water straight up, add 1' for every elbow and .5' for every 45deg elbow. Then you can look at the curve and get a reasonable approximation of what you're looking at for actual flow. > Can I use the 1800 gph pump as is or must I restrict the flow to 600 gph? <Trust the manufacturers specifications, 1800gph is way too much, I'm sure this is the first time your retailer has sold this specific setup since there's no way it's going to work!> Can I use the 950 gph pump? <Go for it, keeping in mind that you may have to gate it back a little.> For the time being this will be a fish only system. I may add limited invertebrates or corals later. <Sounds good, I hope this helps! -Kevin>

Buying Velocity pumps (Custom SeaLife) - 3/9/04 Hi, I am setting up a 20g sump with an CRP overflow on a 75g tank. I like what I hear about Velocity pumps. I was wondering if you think buying Custom Sealife pumps is still a good idea as they are going out of business? <An excellent question. I feel that unless the company you are buying from will honor any implied warranties from Custom SeaLife, then I would not purchase the pumps. I would discuss the matter with the retail outlet you are planning to buy from before purchasing. ~Paul> Thanks, Kevin Davenport

Rio Pumps (3/8/04) I have a Rio 800 pump in my skimmer and two Rio 800's as power heads. I've added sponges to both the power heads in the tank to act as a mechanical filter. I'm glad I did because they really have trapped a lot of the floating garbage that was getting into the pumps. I'm still worried about my skimmer as it's been making a lot of noise. Not that they're very silent machines, LOL Thank you for your suggestions! Eileen :) <Happy to help. BTW, Rios do not enjoy a good reputation. Your skimmer might work better and be quieter with the MaxiJet AquaC offers as an alternative. Read more about Rios by searching on WWM. Steve Allen. PS Do let me know how your Linckias hold up.> Goodbye power heads (re post) 2/27/04 Hi Anthony or other helpful crew member, <whassup?> Some time ago I wrote you about setting up a "goodbye power head" system. I have a standard 75 gal non drilled reef on a regular stand. I was going to use a over the back siphon as input to the pump and then run it back up as in your design. <yeeeeeikkes. Siphon overflows are no part of any system I would/did/will ever recommend. They are patently risky in the long term at best. DO reconsider. If you cannot drill the tank, I'd rather see you go sumpless than use a siphon overflow> I am ready to "make it so" but have a few more questions. 1) On the intake, should I plumb it like a external Durso with a cap on the pvc so the pump can be primed? I am thinking it will always stay primed even if the power goes out or am I missing something? <missing much my friend... there are many things that can and will break this siphon over time: accumulated microbubbles from sump pump, skimmer effluent, O2 production off corals and plants by day, etc)> 2) Should I use a pressure rated pump or a volume? <not sure here without knowing/seeing the plumbing. Still I suspect it will not be that complex and as such either pump will work. I'd opt for pressure rated> 3) Would 1/2" pipe for the return be ok? as 3/4 just stands out around the tank to much. <Likely fine here... will require some experimentation> 4) What GPH would you recommend at around 4' head and 4 90 elbows. I was thinking around 800gph or so. <too low here my friend... opt for 20X for better results (10-20X is minimum and some of the best tanks have near 40X diffused). Find a pump that delivers 1500-2000 gph at the head you will apply>> Can you recommend a brand or model? I have shallow pockets! <good things are seldom cheap and cheap things are seldom good, bud. For how large this overall investment is (many thousands of dollars through the first few years)... saving $50-100 on a cheaper pump is not worth it. Buy quality made to last like Iwaki and enjoy is 3-5X longer than the cheap pumps. Opt for Japanese made Iwaki (better built)> Thanks to all the crew for the great service you provide to all of us! <thanks kindly, Anthony>

- Remote Sump - I am in the process of constructing a small fish/equipment room in my basement below the display tank which will house my QT, RO/DI unit, top off water, supplies, etc. Another reason that I was anxious to make this move was that I wanted to expand upon my sump and add a refugium. There simply is not enough room in the cabinet as it is. I'm assuming that this will help cut down on the noise as well. <Yep.> My first question is, how do I figure out the size pump I will need to push the water back upstairs (probably 8 feet vertical)? <Probably more than that - the normal head height for tanks placed on stands is five feet - then you've got the distance from the floor of the main tank to the floor of the basement tank - I'm guessing that will end up being at least 10 feet, if not more.> The mag pump that I have now with the sump was provided by the LFS when I purchased the tank does a fine job but I'm sure that it won't be enough for the new design. <Probably not.> I am currently doing the necessary research to set up a good refugium but need help with the pump. <Add that to the research - you'll need something that can deliver whatever circulation you want/need at the head height resulting from the basement installation. Would take the time now to figure out roughly what that will be.> Current set-up: 105G RR with sump (40G?) below. In the sump, all I have is a heater, sponge filter, and skimmer. The mag pump is mounted outside of sump but I do not know the size. Thanks. <Cheers, J -- >

- Remote Sump, Follow-up - Thanks for the response. You're right about the head height. Mine will probably be around 11 feet since the sump will be installed on a work bench about 3 feet off the basement floor. The pumps that I have looked at indicate the GPH based upon the height. How do I figure out what rate of circulation I need? <Take the volume of your tank and shoot for 10 times that in recirculation - is usually a good goal to aim for.> Is there a standard calculation? <Five to ten times the tank volume turned over per hour is pretty typical.> Are there pumps that you can adjust the flow? <Probably, but there are also valves... will accomplish the same thing.> Mark <Cheers, J -- >

- Wet Set Pumps - Good Afternoon. I am desperately trying to find out about the wet set model 22 pump as I have recently been given one. Can you tell me how I can get in touch with anybody or Company who can answer some questions for me please? <Well... I've never heard of this pump, do suggest you put the phrase "Wet Set Pump" in Google or your favorite Internet search engine and see what comes up. In the interim - this email will be saved on our Daily FAQs for many folks to see, and perhaps one of our readers will chime in... they often do.> Regards Ricky <Cheers, J -- >

Powerful Pumps Without The Noise! Hi Crew, <Hello there! Scott F. here today!> Thank you for your helpful web site. I have two questions for you both about noise, one is about my return pump set up and the other is about a noisy skimmer. My tank is a 300 gallon reef tank in my living room it currently has an Iwaki mdrlt70 running the return to a height of 5 ft. The water is distributed through 5 nozzles around the tank. The problem is twofold: a) I don't think there is enough flow, and b) I want to put a couple of the SCWDs (SP?) to vary the flow pattern in the tank. My overflow box is in one corner and measures 8inches by 12 inches. I would like to have a two pump system just in case something were to ever happen to one pump I have a back up. I have looked at the Dolphin, Blue-Line and Velocity pumps, the Velocity I have heard adds too much heat back into the system so I am deciding between the blue-line and the Dolphin. Any suggestions or advice on pros and cons of either pump and other possibilities? <Both are quality pumps, IMO. If you want radical flow, go for a Dolphin Ampmaster. It is quiet and VERY powerful!> Is there a definitive way of finding out which one is quieter? <You'll just have to ask around, and visit some fellow hobbyist's aquariums to hear for yourself> Secondly, I recently added a Euroreef skimmer with the upgraded quieter pump in my sump. The problem is that the pump as supplied from EuroReef does not lay flat on the sump floor it is levitating ? inch above the sump floor this causes the skimmer to vibrate and makes the entire sump resonate. Any suggestions to make it quieter would be appreciated. <Perhaps you could position some closed cell foam around the pump to limit the vibration? Just a thought...> Thank You Bijan <You're quite welcome, Bijan. Maybe a few of our WWM readers could chime in here, too! Regards, Scott F>

The Right Pump For The Job? I have a 125 glass reef tank set up and running 9 years with 2 j tube overflows, and I am thinking about converting over to a 125 reef ready Oceanic or buying another tank and having it drilled. I run a Iwaki 40 and I have to reduce the flow, so I don't overpower the overflows. Which do you suggest? <Well, I'd look into an Iwaki MD55RLT (pressure rated). It has great flow, and can be "dialed down" if the flow is too great. Either of the two tank configurations that you are thinking about are okay, IMO.. Regards, Scott F>

- Pump De Jour - I have a 55 gallon tank and I am in the process of getting a 10-gallon in-stand sump/refugium up and running. I have an acrylic hang-on overflow box with U-tube. My (secondhand) tank set-up originally came with a CAP 2200 return pump, but this put a lot of electricity in the water so I threw it out. I now have a Surge 6000. I cannot find any information on this pump. I think it may be made by Aquus. It came from a reliable source and I think it would be good to use but I would like to know more about it before I add it to the system -- could it be too powerful? <It could be but that's hard to know for certain, honestly I have never heard of this brand of pump. This question will be posted on the dallies - with any luck, someone will pipe up who already has one of these pumps.> Thanks for all the great info. My eyes are tired from reading all the great FAQs. Oh yeah, since I am already here and asking, can I put a Coral Banded shrimp and two peppermint shrimp in my 55? <You could, but there's a strong likelihood that the either the coral banded or the peppermint shrimp will kill the other.> Or just one Coral Banded? <I'd just go with one Coral Banded.> I do not have any coral. <No worries.> THANKS!!! Emily <Cheers, J -- > Pump Selection Hi, <Hi there! Scott F. with you today!> I have been pouring through the topics and haven't really figured it out yet. I am switching from a 75G to an Oceanic 180G Reef ready and turning the 75 into a sump. As for the return pump, what should I get. The returns will be about 4.5 to 5 feet high, and I will have a 12" x 16" refugium overflowing into the display, which will be fed from the return. <Sounds nice!> I am looking at a Supreme Mag Drive pump, 1200 GPH and also looking at the same in a 1800 GPH. Also, is this manufacturer ok? Or is the Pond Master a better pump? <Mag Drive pumps are great products, IMO. I am a big fan of Iwaki pumps, however, for durability and performance. They are not the most quiet pumps on the block, but I feel that they are virtually indestructible! Alternatively, you could look into a Dolphin "Ampmaster", which puts out a lot of flow (up to 3,000gph). You could always bleed off some of the flow as needed of this is too much for your overflow, et. to handle> I will be sump skimming with a Tunze 230/3 and plan to have a Tunze top off and eventually a calcium reactor. These have nothing to do with my question, but I am just stoked on my desired end results! My friend, Phil Hanvey, is helping me visualize all this, and pointed me to your website. Thanks, James <Sounds like you have the makings of a great system, James! Pass on the thanks to James for turning you on to the WWM site! Good luck with your system! Regards, Scott F>

Lost my Flow! Hi guys, I am currently running a CSL Velocity T1 pump on my 90 Gal reef and have come to the conclusion I don't have enough flow in my tank. <OK> The plumbing is 3/4 PVC and there is an inline UV ster. after the pump which requires 7 90 deg elbows to make it all work. I am thinking of buying an Iwaki 40 to replace the Velocity. I really like how quiet the Velocity pumps are though. Thought about trying a T3 but seems unwise as CSL hanging it up. I hear the Iwakis are great pumps but a little noisier than the Velocity pumps. <Never used a Velocity, but I love Iwaki products> My questions 1) Do you think the Iwaki will be enough or possibly too much with a standard 1 " return bulkhead or could you recommend a better/quieter pump? 2) I notice the common philosophy with UV and reef tanks now is they are not really recommended, Being that I already have it would you still use it or disregard it when I plumb for new pump. I have unplugged it for a month at a time too see if I can tell a difference and can not see any difference with it on or off. <UV Sterilization can be very valuable in certain applications. That said, if you're quarantining fish and corals, it's certainly not needed. In fact, it may be killing valuable microbes that live in the water column. Can't make this decision for you, but many reefers are removing them. See here for more research: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/AqBizSubWebIndex/bizuvs.htm> Thanks again - Kevin

- Flow Rates - Post, Post Script - They are actually higher...for the mag 12 they charge $245.00 CAD... <Ouch!> I've found smaller guys that will do $225.00 but I still have to add the 15% on for taxes. <What a pain.> Is the Eheim an inline pump ? <Yes, or rather Eheim makes many things including inline/submersible pumps. Cheers, J -- >

Pump Picks! What brand of pumps do you think are the best for outside of the sump? As in quality, quiet, and runs pretty cool? I'm looking to use the hole on the side of my sump for my 180, so I can use the Euroreef skimmer I want because the foot print is so big.... Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. <I'm partial to Iwaki for their quality, power, and reliability. They are not the most quiet, but they are the best, IMO. Another good series of pumps is the Dolphin "Amp Master" series. Good power, and VERY quiet...Do a little chatting on the WWM Chat Forum and see what other fish geeks are using! Good luck! Regards, Scott F>

Picking A Pump! Hi, <Hi there! Scott F. with you today!> My first choice for new pumps would be RIO, since I have 2 without any problems for 15 odd years. Since so many hobbyists have problems these days with RIO I changed my mind. I guess their quality is not what it used to be? <Actually, I think that RIO quality is better than it ever was. It seems to me that RIO pumps are so prevalent in the hobby, that almost everyone seems to have one. When you have millions of units out there, you're gonna have the most failures, too...Goes with the territory. They are not the highest quality units out there, but they are certainly not the worst, either!> Is GENX and SEN good pumps, are there any known problems with these 2 makes, do they last long, etc? <Both have good reputations. If you want indestructible powerheads, look to the higher-end Tunze Turbelles and Geminis. Good stuff...> What other good makes are there on the market? <As above. In my opinion, if you want a great, reliable, and long-lived pump (not powerhead)- look no further than Iwaki! I love 'em. Lots of other brands out there, so ask around and see what your friends are using!> Thanks Mohamed. <My pleasure! Regards, Scott F>

Iwaki pump - 12/23/03 I recently purchased an Iwaki MD40RLT. It seems to function great, but at 4 feet of head, the return is almost too strong for my tank w/a 5'' DSB. <In the world of Marine aquarium equipment, we all get used to exaggerated claims.... Skimmers rated for a 300 gallon tank when we all know they will only handle 100, miracle additives and the like. Well, Iwaki delivers and then some. In my experience, either Iwaki rates their pumps conservatively or everyone else is pretty liberal, because they move some serious water for their rating!> It stirs everything up no matter where I direct the return head. Is there any way I can reduce this? I planned on using a couple of powerheads as well, rated at about 300 GPH. Any other possibilities here.. Thank you <Absolutely. Since your drains will obviously handle the full output of the pump, I would divide the return at least in two, if not into several separate returns. This will keep a lot of water moving, but reduce the velocity at any one point, helping keep your sand put.> HTH. Adam>

Too much pump? Guys, <hello> I am extraordinarily grateful to you for the time and effort you put into this wonderful site. <glad it has helped you> I have a pump question. I know, about a billion of them have already posted in the pump selection FAQs, but I've looked through all of them and it seems I'm the only one who does stupid stuff like this (I'm the kind of guy who'll research something for 6 months and then go out and do the wrong thing. It's like living in the Twilight Zone) Anyhow, my question: I've a pre-drilled All-Glass 120g tank in which I'm hoping to create a reef w/LS/LR. Depending on who you believe, this tank will drain somewhere between 1000-1200 gph. The Iwaki 55 seemed a perfect fit (1080 at 4' head, which is more or less what I'll have). But, when I went to order it I was momentarily overcome by the fact that the price between it and the 70 was inconsequential. In a burst of megalomania I ordered the 70 and only later realized the darn thing is going to be too powerful, physics dictating that if you put water into a tank faster than you take it out it's going to overflow. I know there are workarounds - maybe T-ing off a bleed line back into the sump or some such. But that kind of thing seems kludgy and unnecessary. Right now all I have planned, other than a skimmer, which is on its own pump, is sump back to tank. Do you think I should just return it for the 55? <I would stick with the 70 and Valve it down only valve down water coming out of the pump not going into the pump) the reason I say this is for one, you have the pump. Number two if you were ever to add (since you plan on doing a reef) a Calcium reactor, or UV or ROWAphos reactor, or refugium, you will need the extra from the pump to run those. good luck MikeH> Thanks again for the great work you do. Mark Colorado Springs

Pump It Up (Water, That Is!) I have recently purchased an Oceanic Systems sump to go along with their 72g RR tank. I like the sump itself, but Oceanic recommends that I use a submersible pump b/c there are no holes drilled for an external. I would prefer using an external because of the possible heat problems submersibles may cause. My question is, would I still be able to use an external pump by taking some tubing coming from my sump, attaching it to the intake of the pump, then running the return back to the tank? I thought I have read about problems that may arise from this, but cannot entirely recall. I'm not completely against the submersible, but would prefer to use either Iwaki or Velocity pumps. Any other recommendations are very welcome. Thank you very much. Brian <I suppose that it could work, but you'll need to do some experimentation, and take into account head pressure, etc. I really like Iwaki MD pressure-rated pumps. Certainly worth a try, IMO. Good luck! Regards, Scott F>

Choosing A Pump With Power... Hello Crew, <Hey there! Scott F. with you!> Love the site, visit it daily. <Glad you enjoy it!> I am building a new house & am going to have 2-225g FOWLR tanks custom built into the family room wall. I have a 300gal water storage tank that will be in the garage. I want to pump the water from the storage unit, up 12' to the attic, then over 60' to the family, then down 12' to the sumps. I will have a switch at the tanks to turn on the pump in the garage. Can you tell me which brand/size pump to use. The pump will sit on the garage floor outside of the tank, so it wont have to be submersible. Any suggestions? Thanx in advance. Craig <Well, Craig, there are a lot of pumps out there that will do the job- I do recommend a pressure rated pump for this type of application. If it were me, I'd look into an Iwaki MD70RLT or the equivalent, as they are powerful and very rugged! I also like the Dolphin Ampmaster, which is an incredibly powerful pump that has the added advantage of being very quiet! Again, there are lots of pumps on the market that can be utilized for this application, so you'd well advised to speak to some fellow hobbyists on the WWM Chat Forum to see what they're using for this type of application. Good luck! Regards, Scott F>

-Pump selection- I have a 75 gallon reef ready tank by oceanic and have circulation questions. The tank has 2 - 1" overflows with Durso standpipes and 3 - 1/2" returns plumbed into the tank and not the overflows. I purchased an Iwaki 30rlxt pump but think it is probably not enough flow after going through a 1" check valve, teed off once with one side going to a SCWD ( so teed off again) and total height being about 4 feet. <Ooo, so you've got some decent head pressure here. I would shoot for 800-1000gph after all the head pressure has been taken into account. Check out http://reefs.org/library/pumps/ for pump curves (under more info) of the pumps in question. The one you have is a tad underpowered.> would you suggest going with a Iwaki 70rlt or would you buy two of the Turbelle stream 6060's and put them on opposite sides of the tank? <Although Turbelle streams are really cool, I'd upgrade the return pump.> they would be the same price to purchase one or the other. I can't really use a sea swirl since my returns only come about a foot up into the tank. <How 'bout using the 30rlxt on a closed loop w/ a 1" sea swirl?! Check reefcentral and reefs.org for closed loop designs.> As for the return tube size, I ran 1" off my pump and teed it to 2 3/4" with one side going to a SCWD and all the 3/4" tube all the way up to the 3 bulkheads before they turn into 1/2"s. <Why 1/2's? You should attempt to maximize flow while minimizing velocity. It's better to move more water slower than have a tiny outlet firing a jet of water across the tank. I hope this helps! -Kevin>

-Return pump Q's- So you suggest increasing my return pump to 700 gph at 5 feet. (So like a 1200gph pump?) <That all depends on the pump. Meet your new best friend for pump selection: http://reefs.org/library/pumps/ > Won't I run a risk of overflowing my overflow box on my wet/dry if the water can't go down fast enough to keep up with the pump? <Absolutely, that's why its imperative to verify how much your overflow box can handle. A standard 1" diameter J or U tube can handle around 600gph. This will be your limiting factor.> Also when "they" say water flow should be between 5 and 10 times the tank gallons, does that mean including the powerheads in the tank that just circulate the water OR does that mean the return pump from the filter should be between 5 and 10, and any powerheads are just additional.<5-10 would be referring to return pumps, I suggest the upper levels of that range. Some say 20-30 turnovers per hour total (w/ powerheads and stuff), but basically you need to have good flow everywhere in the tank that you need it. It usually ends up being 20-30 turnovers.> Like, can my return pump be around 3-5x and then add two powerheads? <I would suggest a return pump that puts your overflow to near capacity (i.e. if it max's out at 600gph, shoot for 550 or so). The number is not as important as just getting the most possible turnover to your sump within the overflow's capacity. -Kevin> Thanks Again

Pumps and head loss for manifold 10/8/03 I am attempting to build a circulation manifold for my 150 gallon tank from 1" PVC. I used the Head Loss Calculator at Reef Central and came up with 11 foot of head loss for my design. 60" vertical, 12" horizontal, 5 90 degree elbows, friction factor of .018 with 1" PVC. According to the guy on the phone at www.Marinedepot.com that accounts for an actual flow rate of 600 GPH for the Iwaki 40RLXT. For the 55RLT it would be 900 with an 11ft loss and for the 70RLT is would be 1260. My question is that it would seem I need to get the 70RLT to match my overflow box rating of up to 1400 GPH and get the flow suggested. I just wanted to make sure these numbers sounded right to you and that for a regular manifold for a 150 gallon tank, a guy would need to buy a 70RLT to get the kind of circulation you guys suggest, at least 5 times tank volume. Thanks <your estimate and assumption is correct... and know that if this is a full blown reef display, you will still need to add powerheads or a closed loop pump to the display to get into the proper 10-20X tank turnover per hour range recommended. Best regards, Anthony>

Sump and Pump Question 10/8/03 I am currently in the initial stages of setting up a 125 Gal FOWLR. I was given a W/D filter (about 32 gal) from a friend that was using it on a 200 Gal at one time. I am planning on removing the Bio Balls and using the LR for my filtration. <good> The tank has a built in pre-filter. <a hindrance if it is small and inline with the overflow> I have a couple of questions. If I was to add some LR to the sump would it need to be completely submerged? <it would be better/best to do so> Also and probably more importantly I am looking for advice on a pump. I have read that you really like the Iwaki Water Pumps and since it seems that they are of good quality I will look into purchasing one of them. <correct... time tested, reliable, quiet and very durable> I need to know which one. I have read that you suggest turning the water in the system aware form 5 to 20 times an hour, which does not seem unreasonable. <indeed... and some hardcore reefs with shallow water corals actually take towards 40X per hour. Your flow will depend on the needs of the animals you keep. ID them first before picking your pump> My main question is how much GPH and will the pre-filter and sump cause any reduction in the flow rate if I was to get a bigger pump that pumps more GPH? <there are calculations for this (some handy ones on reefs.org and reefcentral.com). Its rather long to explain in a brief e-mail here... do seek these online calculators for operating head/pressure on pumps. Use the search tool on their pages> I do not want to by a bigger pump like a 40RXLT and have it dry out the sump because it can pump more that the pre-filter and sump can handle. <you are missing the big picture here my friend... please do see if you can find a local aquarium society and aquarists to see and learn from their set-ups. Else a good LFS that will let you peep their systems> The last question that I have is about the Iwaki pump themselves. I notice that they have one that have American made Motors and ones with Japanese made motors. Do you know if there any significant difference in performance and quality because there is a large price difference? Thanks for all your advice and what a great site. Todd <the Japanese pumps have enjoyed a long reputation for being well-worth the added expense. Their advantage is durability and pump life. Anthony>

Magnum 350 10/5/03 I recently acquired a used Magnum 350 canister filter. How do I set it up? Thanks, Cherie <hmmm... I'm not sure I/we can best serve you by a less than clear and long explanation of this product via e-mail. Let me ask you to help yourself (better) by archiving the manufacturers website... and seeking a local aquarium society (excellent source of such information and advice to see and work hands-on). You might also try out www.wetwebmedia.com forum for fellow users that can share insight. Best regards, Anthony> Magnum 350 Manual 10/5/03 For the person who bought the used Magnum 350, the owner's manual can be downloaded from this link: http://www.marineland.com/products/manuals/magnum_manual.pdf Steve Allen <outstanding follow-up, Steve. Thanks kindly :) Anthony>

- Submerged Pump Types - Hi All, Just want to say without you all here for help I may given up this hobby. <Well... I'm glad you stuck around.> Now it's just to much fun. Do any of you know of a submersible pump which I can put into my overflow? <My guess is this would all depend on size... what you could fit in there.> All I've looked at that are submersible have a grate covering the inlet. I was hoping to find one which has it's own 3/4" inlet. <Perhaps a Rio pump.> I'm planning on using an existing unused return line below my overflow to feed another pump for more flow. This will become the dedicated suction line for the submersible and I will run a new return line hidden in the hood. <Ok.> Thanks in advance, Dick <Cheers, J -- >

- Submerged Pump Types, Follow-up - Hi J, Good morning. I will check out the Azoo 2500 Irrigator pump. It seems to be the only one which say it's submersible and show's it has a dedicated inlet and outlet. <Eh? I can think of a bunch of other pumps that fit this bill - Eheim, Rio to name just two... but, your the boss here. I'm sure the Azoo will work fine.> Thanks, Dick <Cheers, J -- > Who said head (pressure)? Hi, I calculated the head loss I would have on my return line, and this it said that I would have a total head loss of 10 foot head or 4.32 PSI (see below). I am not sure what this means. Does this mean that even though the pump would be pumping water four feet up back to the tank, the net effect including the head loss would be the equivalent of pumping the water up 10 feet? So, even though the pump is actually pumping water up 4 feet to the main tank and it is rated to pump 1190 gph at 4 feet, and is actually going to pump water at its rating for 10 feet (whatever it is)? <You are correct , figure pump volume @10' or 11' of head to be safe. Eric> Thank you. ----------------------------- Head losses are calculated as Frictional head loss is 6 foot head or 2.59 PSI. Elevation head loss is 4 foot head or 1.73 PSI. Total head loss is 10 foot head or 4.32 PSI.

Pump choice Hi I am setting up a reef tank, and have narrowed pump choices down to 3 - Iwaki 70, Blueline 70 or Gorman Rupp 520 - the GRI seems to draw a bit less current - some say it is quieter - do you have an opinion? I gather all 3 are very well built and reliable - so I would choose on quiet-ness and efficiency. Also - the GRI can run dry 8 hours, and I believe the others can not. < The best advise I can give you is to get the most efficient want you can, you may want to look into a different type of pump, Is this for circulation? if so, increase the size of the pipe from 1", to 2 0r 3 and go with a Sequence 1000 pump 1/4 hp and uses very little energy, remember this is a circulation pump not a pressure pump so not a lot a turns and not a lot of head pressure. Eric> Thank you very much. John Mathieson

- Sizing Pumps to Overflows - Hi Crew, <Hello, JasonC here...> I am down in the "sumps" again! Trying to get the concept of flow rates and return solved. I have read the FAQ but unable to find a "formula" or rule of thumb" I am setting up a 70 gal non drilled reef and plan on purchasing a CPR continuous overflow siphon or the Marineland version. Also plan on a Max Reef Wet Dry or the Marineland Tidepool (bio removed) or may even make a sump. My question is this: Each of the above products state that a return pump and line needs to be purchased separately. How do I determine what the correct gph pump and size of return line? <Well, do keep in mind that as long as you don't exceed the maximum flow rate for the overflow, the tank will overflow as much water as you pump.> The overflow box ranges from 300 to 1600 gph. If I turn the water over 5 times that would be 350 gph. <More would be better... 10x is a good rate to shoot for.> Is that what size return pump to get? <Absolutely your choice on this.> Should I go higher? It seems if I went lower, the sump would overflow and if I go higher, it would run dry?? <Again... if you pump in say 600 GPH, that same amount of water will flow back out of the tank and into the sump, ready to be returned at 600 GPH to the tank. You may find that as you get this set up and going that you need to add a little more water to the system - this is known as the 'transit volume' - the amount of water that is not in the tank or the sump, but in the plumbing between the two.> What diameter return line. The same or smaller than the overflow? <3/4" will likely be fine - 1" if you go over 1000 GPH.> Is there a set formula for figuring this regardless of what sump or overflow I go with? <I'm sure there is, but I can't locate it at the moment. Otherwise, just don't pump more than the overflow can handle and you will be fine.> As always, thanks for your great site and any assistance. <Cheers, J -- >

- Sizing Pumps to Overflows, Follow-up - Hi Jason, <Hello.> Sorry I guess I still just don't get it? <Perhaps you are thinking too hard ;-) > If I purchase a overflow that is rated at 800 gph and has a 1" outlet then isn't this the limiting factor of how much water I can pump? <It's a self-limiting factor... if you ignore the 800 GPH rating of the overflow and put a 1,200 GPH pump on that same overflow, the pump would drain the sump and overflow the tank... exceeding the maximum flow rate the overflow could handle; essentially filling the tank faster than it can be drained.> Would I then get an 800 gph pump or one that pumps less? <Up to, but not more than 800 GPH, sure. Smaller would be fine... exactly the same might be pushing your luck as few devices match their rating exactly... it's always +/- a small percentage - but say 700 GPH, or 750 GPH should be fine.> As you state, do not pump more than the overflow can handle? <Indeed... what I was really getting at is... say you pick the 800 GPH overflow, and then use a 600 GPH pump... the overflow will move water at 600 GPH... even though the overflow can move a maximum of 800 GPH, it's not going to drain water at 800 GPH unless you pump at that rate. The pump is the limiter.> Thanks again! <Cheers, J -- >

- Sizing Pumps to Overflows, One Last Time - Hello one more time, <No worries.> I believe the "fog" is finally lifting. By George I think I've got it! Thanks for your assistance. <My pleasure.> You are right about thinking too hard. At least I have the lighting figured out. <Ahh good.> The roofers are coming tomorrow to cut a very large hole in my SW Florida roof. Natural sunlight and makeup water everyday! :) <Sounds like fun.> Thanks again. <Cheers, J -- >

- High Flow with No Noise - Hello again Crew! <Hello to you, JasonC here...> Looking for more insights and opinions. I've been researching the forums and FAQs and would like to run some things past you. I'm setting up a large (375 gal.) reef and have been trying to determine which pumps will best suit my needs (I know, can be highly subjective but please bear with me). My requirements are high flow, very low heat transfer, and very, very low noise (e.g. - spouse doesn't want to hear it!). I realize that the right pump will most likely be a compromise but I'm trying to keep that compromise to a minimum. My first choice was the Dolphin Ampmaster series but other aquarists report many issues with seal failure and some unreliable restarts after power interruptions. Velocity and Sequence (the same?) pumps were also considered but seem to suffer from seal issues as well as high heat transfer. Iwaki and Blueline offer the reliability I seek but reports indicate they are very noisy. Little Giant (yikes!) and MAK4/MAK5 were also reviewed and dismissed. That brings me to Gorman Rupp. User stats are sparse but all seem to be favorable and if price is any indication.............. ! <Not cheap.> The GRI pumps that I've been able to find don't have exceedingly high flow rates (about 1500 gph max) but I could employ more of them (ouch!). I've also considered the "external" powerheads in lieu of more pumps for supplemental flow (MAX, High-Tech). <Is really the way I would address this issue. Is wise to have a decent recirculation flow rate, but if it's too high there will perhaps be as much noise from the overflows as there is from the pumps. Do consider one or more of the Tunze Stream pumps... these pumps are 1800 GPH [and up] power heads which provide robust water movement in the tank.> Any info or experience with these? I've also looked at Turbelle Stream powerheads (don't seem much more intrusive than a Sea-Swirl would be) but heard they really stir a deep sand bed (maybe too small a tank) but otherwise provide terrific flow. <Only if you point them at the sand bed... is easy to remedy if you put a layer of larger grain, heavy particle substrate on top of the fine-grain sand that makes up your sand bed.> Your thoughts again? <Again, the Tunze Stream pump is your best option - there is currently [no pun intended] nothing on the market like them.> As for switching the Turbelles, could you not use any manufactured electronic switching device or must they be run with the Tunze controller (if switched at all)? <They have two different models - the 'electronic' models must use the Tunze controller. The non-electronic models can be used like other power heads, but cannot be plugged into a wavemaker [pulse on/off units] as these will damage the powerhead. If you want wavemaker-type action from the Tunze Stream pump, you must use their electronic version.> Don't know for sure but I suspect the controller doesn't really "switch" power but might alternately slow-down and speed-up the units? <That is correct.> Thank you "10 to 20 times over" for your time. (OK, sorry for the pun) Eric <Cheers, J -- >

-Large pump recommendations- Hello again Crew! I apologize if this gets to you more than once. I sent the original six days ago and haven't seen a response so figured it must have been lost in the ozone :-). <My apologies, not sure what happened> Looking for more insights and opinions. I've been researching the forums and FAQs and would like to run some things past you. I'm setting up a large (375 gal.) reef and have been trying to determine which pumps will best suit my needs (I know, can be highly subjective but please bear with me). My requirements are high flow, very low heat transfer, and very, very low noise (e.g. - spouse doesn't want to hear it!). <Ahhh, so you want the perfect pump, aye?> I realize that the right pump will most likely be a compromise <You got it> but I'm trying to keep that compromise to a minimum. My first choice was the Dolphin Ampmaster series but other aquarists report many issues with seal failure and some unreliable restarts after power interruptions. <They also transfer heat directly to the water.> Velocity and Sequence pumps were also considered but seem to suffer from seal issues as well, and high heat transfer. <The CSL velocity pumps aren't even truly rated for seawater.> Iwaki and Blueline look to offer the reliability I seek but reports indicate they are very "noisy". <The Japanese MD series of Iwaki pumps are tried and true great pumps. Whichever way you go you'll have to deal with some noise, so Iwaki would be your best bet.> Little Giant (yikes!) and GEN-X MAK4/MAK5 were also reviewed and dismissed. That brings me to Gorman-Rupp. <Ahh, an often overlooked brand> User stats are sparse but all seem to be favorable and if price is any indication.............. ! The GRI pumps that I've been able to find don't have exceedingly high flow rates (about 1500 gph max) but I could employ more of them (ouch!). <They're pretty quiet and reliable. You will likely need more than one provided your overflows can handle it.> I've also considered the "external" powerheads in lieu of more pumps for supplemental flow (MAX, High-Tech). Any info or experience with these? <Unfortunately no. I do have much experience with running closed loops with sea-swirls. In large tanks like yours, an Ampmaster driving a pair of 1" Sea-swirls off of a closed loop will provide excellent supplementary flow. Do some forum searches on closed loops for hobbyist DIY plans> I've also looked at Turbelle Stream powerheads for creating flow (doesn't seem much more intrusive than a Sea-Swirl would be), but heard they really stir a deep sand bed (might have been too small a tank) but otherwise provide terrific flow. Your thoughts again? As for switching the Turbelles, could you not use any manufactured electronic switching device or must they be run with the Tunze controller (if switched at all)? <Not sure, you may want to ask Tunze directly> Don't know for sure but I suspect the controller doesn't really "switch" power but might alternately slow-down and speed-up the units? <These units are still relatively new, but I'm sure someone, somewhere has addressed this.> Thank you "10 to 20 times over" for your time. (OK, sorry for the pun) <Ouch, turnover jokes... :) Good luck! -Kevin> Eric

-Pump selection- Hi Crew, I have researched pumps on manufacturers websites and also forums and am at a loss because of it (warning: too much info can paralyze :) <Heehee, I hear ya> I had a Rio3100 as a return pump, but it puts out a ridiculous amount of heat (tank was at 94 degrees F for a time (no inhabitants yet, thank goodness). <Something's horribly wrong with it, sounds defective.> I am debating the Iwaki wmd30rxlt, the mag9 and blue line pumps. The Iwaki seems like a good choice, but some have said it runs hot and is real noisy. <They do run warm. A quieter choice would be the md series because the motors are Japanese made. You should know about buying American made stuff!! ;) > Heat and noise are my two biggest concerns. The mag9 is attractive for the price, and no one has said they're very loud. <Not at all, I run 3 Mag pumps on my system right now. They're pretty quiet (I run submersed though) and I'm proud to say that I probably haven't serviced my main Mag 9 in over a year and I run no mechanical filtration!> The drawback here is I've heard the can leak from the fittings when set up external. <Occasionally, there's only a cheesy o-ring holding back the water.> Finally, the blue line 30XHD - this seems like a good balance of $$ and power. couldn't find info on heat noise though. Do you have any info that could help break the stalemate? <I'd go with the tried a tried and true Japanese Iwaki, even if you need to stretch the budget a little, they're great pumps. -Kevin> As always, thanks for your time and wisdom. Nick p.s. I really want a dolphin pump, but way over budget (~250.00) - why is everything worth buying too expensive to afford??? <Ah, who knows, could be worse!>

Amped With His Pump! Scott, <Hi there!> I took your advice and purchased a Dolphin Ampmaster 3000. WHAT A DIFFERENCE! The pump is almost silent. It pumps a great deal of water and runs much cooler. <The Ampmaster is simply outrageous! Glad that you like it!> Thanks for the advice. I highly recommend this pump. Even though the Iwaki says it is "super quiet", it isn't! James <Yep...I love Iwakis...They are built like a tank...Reliable, powerful- everything that the manufacturers say about them is true...Except they are to darned noisy! The Ampmaster is in a class by itself. Like any pump, it has its own quirks- but it's ideal for most reef applications! Enjoy! Scott F>

I need exact model below, please help! (Jebo pump) Interested Models: JEBO Submersible Pump PP-33LV 12V 60Hz 2W Head:0~50 CM I need to purchase above exact model. Where can I buy one? Can you send me an e-mail with information please? Thank you, Mike P.S.: I don't know where to look for one. I checked local fish stores and they don't carry this model. <I'd contact the manufacturer: http://www.jebo.com.cn/html/under-c.html and ask them for directions on who might carry it in your area or ship it to you. Bob Fenner>

Big Pump Noise I currently have a 180g mini reef tank with an Iwaki 100 RLT as my main pump. I am really struggling with the noise level of this pump as the tank is in the same room where I have an entertainment system. I have enclosed the back side of the sump area and this has made it tolerable, but I am still tempted to turn off the pump when I watch a movie because of the noise. <Could you use some type of insulation as a sound barrier. I have also seen people use mouse pads under the pump to help deaden the noise> Is there a pump with similar output that would be substantially more quiet? <Others here have spoken well for the Dolphin AmpMaster although the longevity may not be as good as the Iwaki> Thanks, Marc <Hope this works out, Don>

Sump Pump! - 7/7/03 <Hi Bob, Cody here reporting for duty! Sorry for the delayed reply.> I'm getting ready to set up a 30 gallon FOWLR in my office (probably 40 gallon in the system with sump water). Here are my pump questions: 1) Considering that I'll have an in-sump skimmer, is another submersible pump for circulation back to the tank (I have a spare Rio 1700) going to create heat problems with the water? <It could, especially if you have a skimmer pump by it.> 2) If so, should I just drill my sump and go with an external pump? <That would be my choice.> 3) Either way, I was considering the Mag Drive 5. One site that sells them highly recommended that they NOT be used in-line, ONLY submersed. I haven't found any one else with that concern. What's your opinion/experience regarding that? 4) What pump(s) might you recommend that produce the least noise (both in-sump and external)? 5) If the flow rate is too high, do you control it with a ball valve in the line returning to the tank? And should that be a certain distance from the pump (i.e. not immediately after the pump)? Hmm, It would be a lot better if the pumps flow rate is less than the overflows.> 6) I also assume I do not need a pressure rated pump, just circulation? <See http://www.wetwebmedia.com/sumprffiltfaqs.htm for more info. Cody> Thanks for the help! You all provide an excellent service!! Bob D

Rio Replacement...? Hello crew!! Back in January I bought an Aqua C Remora Pro skimmer with a Rio pump for my quarantine tank and all was running well until the power went out for about a minute a few days ago. The pump won't come back on even after taking it apart and cleaning the impeller and housing. I contacted Aquatic Warehouse, where I bought the skimmer, about the problem and they said I needed to contact the manufacturer of the Rio pump about replacement of the impeller or the pump. Funny thing is they don't have the number so I can contact them. My problem is I can't find any info on the net (Google) as to where I can contact the maker of the Rio pumps/powerheads for replacement. Does the crew have an address or phone number of the Rio manufacturer so I can get a hold of them? I would appreciated any assistance at all from any of The Crew. Thanks again for all the help, Jeff <The manufacturer/distributor is TAAM, Inc. Their fax number is 805-383-3565...Hope this Helps...Scott F.>

Not So Beautiful Noise! Hi! <Hi there! Scott F. with you today!> I have a 175 reef aquarium that I am in the process of cycling. I purchased an Iwaki 100 RLT pump for the system. The noise is unreal! It sounds like a factory or an old appliance that is running. Is there anything that can be done to reduce the sound? Would you suggest another pump either Iwaki or another brand? I don't think I can live and enjoy the aquarium with this constant noise level. Thanks, James