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-Protein skimmer placement- I have a 220 gallon tank with an Amiracle 30 gallon sump. I have 2 overflow boxes that hang on the back of the tank. They say that you should use raw water to run in to the skimmer. <Would be nice, not the end of the world if this can't happen.> If my water is flowing into the sump via the overflow boxes then into my filter pad then bio balls how do I get raw water to my skimmer then get that water in to a filter pad? <I wouldn't worry about it, most tanks are set up that way.> I do understand the concept but most of the sumps that they sell are not set up that way. <In reef aquaria I don't recommend any type of mechanical filtration, so if you remove that stuff, you'll get the "raw" water you desire.> I will admit that when I purchased most of my stuff I had sucky advice. At that time I did not know about wet web media. Thank god I did learn about you guys (and girls?) though. <A few!> I know that the output of my skimmer will not keep up with the incoming water. What do I do? <Turn down the incoming water w/ a gate valve?> I do have an extra sump laying around could I use that somehow? It is smaller, like a 10 or 15 gallon sump. <Well, I suppose you could tie it in to this one but it would require lots of drilling for little to no gain.> I have searched here and the internet but have found nothing solid to go on. be feasible to eliminate the sump totally? <Not really, you need a sump for an adequately sized skimmer.> A friend was selling his tank and I bought it. He had over 300 pounds of live rock in his tank. Before that I had a little over 300 pounds in mine. So I have over 600 pounds of live rock in my tank. <Holy crap!> He had his tank setup for about 6 years and the only filtration he used was a skimmer. I am leery about using that set up since I have never done it before. <No worries, you could run the pacific ocean on 600lbs of live rock!> I have looked for a good site explaining the Berlin style but came up wanting more. Know of any good sites or books about it? <Why yes, check out Bob and Anthony's new book called Reef Invertebrates. See Wet Web's front page.> What do I do? I am leaving the survival and quality of my tank in your hands ( no pressure). Would it be ok to use 2 skimmers? <It would be much better to use two so that when one was cleaned, the other would assure that skimming is never interrupted.> I have a Berlin XL and a Turboflotor, yeah I know, they work though. <Pick up a Precision Marine bullet 3 or an AquaC EV-240 and I'll show you how a skimmer is SUPPOSED to work! I think you're in good shape for now, good luck! -Kevin> Talk to ya later. Kenny Water flow in Reef 7/3/03 Anthony - having the flow from the sump back to the tank, let's say 8 changes per hour and having the closed loop at 15 per hour, would this be a good way to go? What are your thoughts on this for a reef tank? RGibson <Sounds excellent my friend. Superb for vigorous growth in most corals and for keeping detritus in suspension for export. Anthony> Filtration For A Growing System! Hi WWM, <Hello there! Scott F. here today> First may I say your site continues to be a veritable fountain of knowledge. <We're really happy to bring it to you! And our readers are the best! I learn as much from their experiences as I do from my own! What a great hobby, huh?> I am currently running a 700 litre marine tank with 3 fish and some coral rock. I have been unable to establish the system to the level I initially planned, I simply cannot maintain calcium levels in such a large environment. I wish to set up a smaller tank and focus on keeping a low bioload. <Well, sounds like you're a prime candidate for a calcium reactor. You can purchase or build one to fit your tank's needs and your budget. Really the most efficient way to maintain calcium and alkalinity levels in a larger system> Anyways, do you think it would be sufficient to use a Fluval 304 filter on a tank which will hold around 200 litres, containing perhaps one clownfish, an anemone, a shrimp, some mushrooms, polyps etc ? <Well, the Fluval is a fine mechanical filter system. However, it's tough to maintain the very high water quality required by some corals with just a filter of this size. It's important to regularly clean and/or replace the media contained within the filter, so that they do not become "nutrient traps", and contribute to declining water quality. Personally, however, I tend to favor a simple sump system, for its flexibility and efficiency. You can make your own with little effort> I have a homemade protein skimmer that is extremely efficient, so this will keep the organics low. <Great! A protein skimmer should be considered an absolutely mandatory piece of equipment for any marine system. It will really help with your system, particularly if it you are depending on a mechanical filter for the primary filter system> I am worried a canister filter will not keep the water quality high enough for a tank of invertebrates and corals. <Well, as above- I would employ a sump system for optimal flexibility and efficiency> I will use one of my 150w 10k MH lights as well as a small actinic tube to provide illumination. <Sounds fine for the creatures that you mentioned that you'd be keeping> Do you think my proposed method of filtration will yield a healthy tank of marine creatures ? <It certainly can work, as long as you pay close attention to husbandry techniques, particularly nutrient export processes (such as water changes, skimming, use of chemical filtration media, etc). Stay on top of the basics, and I have no doubt that you will create a system that your animals will enjoy, and that you'll be proud to own!> Thanks a heap Andrew Hough <My pleasure, Andrew! Best of luck! Regards, Scott F> Skimming and UV Selection Hi, first of all your site is absolutely fantastic! Thank you for it. <Glad that you find it enjoyable! We sure have a blast bringing it to you! Scott F. with you today> I'm going to be setting up my first Reef Aquarium (70gal). <Ahh...the addiction begins!> Currently I have Fluval 404 filter and I was looking for something that would have protein skimmer and UV and filtration all in one... I came across ViaAqua Multi-skimmer, which is a skimmer and 5W UV light. I'm not certain who makes it and I have no idea what their web page is. <Not 100% certain, but you may want to search under "commodity Axis", which I believe is the master distributor for their products...Do check this out!> Are you familiar with it? what are your thoughts on that filter? <Not familiar with this particular skimmer, although Via Aqua does offer some good products. I am not familiar with any other manufacturer offering a combination UV Sterilizer and Protein Skimmer. There are skimmer/"filter" combinations, such as the CPR Bak Pak. You may just want to keep it simple and opt for a good protein skimmer and basic sump system...> If negative, could you recommend an all in one filter most importantly with v. good wet/dry filtration and skimmer together, but one that I would not have to set up a sump for? <Okaayyy- so you don't want a sump...Well, then I'd look for one of the hang-on-the-back units, like the Aqua C Remora (just a skimmer, but a good one), or the Tunze skimmers and related accessories...Do consider a sump though- they do offer remarkable flexibility, and need not be expensive or complex..> What kind of UV light would you recommend for the filter you suggest? <Well, lots of factors go into selecting and utilizing UV in an aquarium. Factors such as water flow into the unit, tank size, etc., etc., etc. all figure into the equation. DO a little research on the WWM site to help you decide what you need.> Thank you very much, Luke <A pleasure, Luke! Good luck! Regards, Scott F> LFS concerns I have spoke with him before, he just happens to be my neighbor. Marine aquariums are not big here...about 6 ppl, the only saltwater tank he has is his display. <You just got to keep trying with this guy. I have the same problem. There is an LFS here in Vegas that houses all (including SPS!) of his corals under about 1.5 watts per gallon of regular fluorescents until they are sold which often takes weeks or even months. Anything that isn't sold within the first month dies quickly thereafter. I've tried to explain to this guy why the corals don't survive (lighting...DUH!). He said none of the corals needed light because he fed them daily with mysis and brine shrimp!!! HAHAHAHAHAHA!! Ignorance is curable. When ignorance is mixed with stupidity, the situation is hopeless, IMO> With the next LFS not really local at 3 hours away, the prices are unbelievably high. <Buy a lot of stuff in one trip or keep trying to educate this other LFS> It was a real culture shock moving to this area 7 years ago, and until 2 years ago... he had no marines. So this is why I just can't understand him at least taking his diseased fish out of the display, especially since I have doubts that his supplier would credit him for a fish he has had for at least 7 weeks. <Shop owners have ways to get the credit. The next time he receives a shipment of tangs he'll just report one or more of the new ones as "dead." If the LFS has a long term relationship with the supplier, he most likely won't need to produce a carcass> My contact with ppl that knew anything at all about saltwater tanks has been non-existent, and finding WWM has been like finding an oasis. <Fantastic!> It's funny to see how much things have changed though, especially as far as filtration and tank setup. Now I am looking at my setup and wondering what I should do to improve it. I've been running a Marineland magnum 350 with it's output split to it's standard output and a bio-wheel pro 30, Marineland 660 powerhead just for extra circulation at bottom, and my soon to be replaced Skilter 250. I have had this setup since 94 on a Oceanic 55g FO with very light bio loads The Skilter will be replaced by aqua c remora, not sure if I should get the pro or not for this size tank. I had wanted to add another canister (Fluval 404)with the suction line opposite my magnum, but after reading the horror's ppl have had with canisters... I'm not sure now. I have always done ok with canisters though. I will be slowly adding LR and upgrading my lighting, but nothing for the next 6 months except for maybe 10#'s of LR to see how it goes. Any comments on altering/changing filtration short of a sump would be helpful. <For a reef tank? Consider a plenum with deep sandbed. The mechanical filtration that you have is adequate but it will eventually produce lots of nitrates. If this is a FO that will not be a problem. In a reef tank it will eventually be problematic. At least get a really good skimmer and get it pulling lots of stuff out of the water ASAP> -Chris <David Dowless> Reef Filtration What should the filtration on a 200 gal reef system be? What is optimum I mean ? <this is determined by the intended bio-load (largely feeding and fish levels/mass). On average... a lot of live rock, two skimmers cleaned alternately and modest chemical filtration is all that is needed. Simple and natural> There will be a Heteractis Magnifica in this tank also so I don't know if that will put a hamper on the filtration needs. <anemones do not belong in reef tanks... they are nightmares and I would bet VERY good money that your anemone will die if not cause a major disaster in this tank within 2 years like most in mixed invert gardens do. Many reasons for this not the least of which is the fact that you are placing a motile stinging Cnidarian in with sessile stinging cnidarians (coral). This is especially true is you intend to have any LPS corals like Hammer, Octopus, Galaxea, Elegant, etc. Please keep this anemone in a sun lit species specific tank if you must have one> Wet/dry , <nix the W/D... an unnecessary nitrate producing machine unless you will have a heavy fish load> Chemical, Biological, Skimming, <all good> UV, <also unnecessary unless you are building a phyto reactor for it. Else it will kill desirable plankton. If used for disease control... save your money and set up a proper quarantine tank instead> etc. There will also be at least 200 lbs of live rock and some various fish and inverts and maybe a few corals. There a 2 coral life MH over it and that is it. I am thinking of adding a coral life combo hood MH/fluorescent to it also so 4 MH a 2 fluorescent. Is this adequate for a Magnifica and some corals? <yes...likely, although I wouldn't take coral life MH lamps/fixtures for free. Do consult message boards on this topic for an intelligent consensus> IS there a grave possibility this species of anemone will eat my fish <nope... it will get stung by a coral or die in an intake/overflow strainer first> and if so is there a better large anemone? <most anemones are somewhat to very challenging to keep. My advice is to admire them from afar. They also suffer terribly from collections where many/most coral are unaffected. A conscientious choice> Any and all you help is greatly appreciated. John fin) P.S. The corals I am wanting to add are Acroporas and maybe and anchor or possibly an elegance or a flower pot polyp. yes/no? <enjoy the Acroporas and other sps corals and leave out the elegance and flowerpot... they are notoriously difficult (one because of collections, the other hardiness). Please review the Wet Web Media archives for information on these corals...there is A LOT on these species. Best regards, Anthony> Reef Questions- follow up Hi Thank you very much for a fast reply Anthony, I do have a Berlin from red sea, <I like other models for lower nutrient reef systems, indeed> but not using them anymore since I'm in a favor of, but I'm currently using EV150 from AquaC, but water level has to be consistent to get a good skimmate, <as it is for every skimmer> I have nothing against it but feel I need an even powerful skimmer like Euroreef. <much agreed!> You mention seagrass and calcareous are more stable and I agree with Macro, but where can I get seagrass and what do you think about mangrove. <see if any of you local stores has an independent diver that collects their Atlantic stock (Astraea snails, blue leg hermits, etc)...they can collect it cheaply. If you do decide to try seagrass please write back for an excerpt from my book on the finer points of establishing it in refugia...it is simple but strict. As far as the mangroves, ditto on the previous and my general opinion is that they are wonderful for aesthetics but grow to slow to be a significant means of nutrient export in aquaria> Agree with thin layers it gave me lots of headache. thanks I will get a luxmeter ASAP. I do have a problem with PH I think will decide to connect the end of the Ca reactor to another canister filled with aragonite (med) that way it does not lower ph, <you won't regret it...wonderful> and will decide to keep top of the tank open since they may restrict O2 from entering the tank and according to the Ozone controller 280-310 that tells me that 02 saturation is very low. <possibly low> I do change the mechanical filter media weekly you suggested every other day. In terms of MH light I currently use Ushio 10,000 K, and previously from Hamilton brands, but recently bought 65000K 400watt Iwasaki, <yes...generally quite good> but according to others you loose wattage with Iwasaki how true is this? <have heard this but cannot confirm. I have had tremendous success with 400 watt Radiums as well> Thanks for your advice I don't thaw the frozen food, and I think that might be a root, <an often overlooked source of nutrients for algae... the passage of thawed pack juice> which lead to another question why is the rock filled with many detritus and I do blast them turkey blaster, but is this from excess nutrient due to not thawing the frozen food. <nope...just insufficient/misdirected current> My purpose about DSB is for nitrate control and also hopefully rid of my current problem with BGA as well, but at the same time I also want a competing for nutrients plants <sugar fine and deep is your path then> and I hope mangrove is much easier than macro algae. <much> Thank you in advance I appreciate your good advice. <very welcome, Anthony Calfo> Re: Filtration Dear Robert, Is there such a thing as over-filtering a system? <Yes... though rare... much more common is "mis-filtering", under filtration> I use an underground and a conventional air filter that have maximum capabilities that are a bit more than the size of my tank. Will this hurt the fish? Thanx. <No my friend. Bob Fenner> -James Kim Before I buy the lighting (reef filtration) One more question. I have been reading night and day lately about keeping a reef. I have read about sumps, refugiums, wet/dry filters, etc. At this point, I know very little about these pieces of equipment. I will learn but could you give me a heads-up if I can maintain a reef without these items. <Yes, you can... these tools can just make the whole project simpler, more predictable by providing more constant, faster reacting filtration, more volume> Before I spend $400 for lights, I want to know if I can have a nice, healthy reef with the following setup: 55g standard 45 lbs Fiji LR ~4" DSB (120 lbs HD Southdown sand) PC (which ones yet to be determined) Hang on Protein skimmer (currently on tank) Hang on AquaClear mechanical filter (currently on tank) 2 power heads (one back left, one back right) One airstone Can I keep a nice reef? Can I keep all inverts, possibly including hard corals and a clam? <Yes, yes... but would definitely add more mechanical filtration here... w/o this, you will have a too-narrow safety margin (even if tank/system in "balance" overall) and could have real trouble should "something" go wrong... Do consider a sump here... and keep studying... more fun, discoveries to come. Bob Fenner> Thanks for the continued help! Susie Reef Filtration Dear Bob, I know you are a very busy man and answer some questions hundreds of times. I would like to thank you in advance for any help you could be to me. <You're welcome> I have a 125 all glass tank the lighting is 2 40 w actinics 2 40 w super daylight and 175 w MH 10000 the act lights come on at 6 am the daylights at 7 and the MH at 8 they go off MH at 7 day at 8 and act at 9 does this seem ok? <Yes, for...?> I am using 75 lbs live sand and 90 lbs live rock I also have a twenty gallon tank that I use as a sump where I run a Berlin skimmer powered by a rio 3100 the return pump is a rio 1700 The over flow is a small hang on type with a small foam prefilter. Is this sufficient for this size of tank I also have a rio 1700 and the return and one other power head for circulation in the main tank. <Sounds good so far> The tank has been setup for four weeks I've already added two clowns a dragon wrasse sleeper goby scooter blenny red brittle star a serpent star a few scarlet crabs Astrea snails and Nassarius snails a Condylactis an and a carpet an. <Yikes... slow down on that stocking...> I plan to more to my clean up crew this weekend. <For browsers here, I'd have added the clean up crew only by now...> I really hated to add all of this to tank this sooner but I already had these creatures in another tank and due to certain things could not wait any longer however everything seems to be doing fine except my ph is 8.6 and I have green algae which covers all the glass daily I clean the front but leave the rest till I can get a better cleanup crew. <Ah, starting to make more sense> I plan to keep some soft corals and polyps and probably 3 or 4 more fish. Is there anything I should change in this set up and could you advise any additives right now I just plan to use b-ionic 2 part for alk and calcium. Thanks Randy and Tina <Do just keep an eye on alkalinity and your calcium levels. All should work out soon... will you be adding lighting and macro-algae to the sump? Bob Fenner> Re: Reef Filtration Hi Bob thanks for the and yes I would like to add macro algae to my sump but I think I will have to wait till I can build a bigger one as it is crowded as it is and there is no room for rock or sand. Thanks Randy and Tina <Ah, sounds good. Be chatting my friends. Bob Fenner> Eco-Wheel Opinion Me again Bob, I was wondering if I could get your opinion on AE Inc's Eco-wheel product? http://aquaticengineers.com/index.htm I was considering using one of these along w/an Ecosystem mud setup. <Have only heard two accounts re these (expensive) units... both positive. No personal experience. Bob Fenner> thanks again Bob! Filter for reef tank... Hi Bob...quick question for you. I bought a tank that is about 2 years old and it came with a Sea Clone (which will become a hospital tank skimmer) and an AquaClear filter (also for the hospital tank). It's a 70-gallon tank and I've ordered the Aqua C Remora (hang-on, as I will have no sump on this tank...tempered glass bottom can't be drilled and I don't want to risk a flood). Any recommendations on a good power filter to use for it? Planning to have about 80 lbs of live rock and a full reef tank. There are just so many out there, and it gets to be overwhelming. I figured you might have a favorite with this situation (got the Remora per your advice). <Hmm, any idea what sorts of organisms you might be wanting to keep? At the zenith I would utilize a sump and an overflow box (see the CPR site here for pix)... along with a couple or three internal pumps/powerheads to move water about... next down the line I would use one of the beefier hang on filters rigging it up as a lighted refugium (like Leng Sy's Ecosystem units) plus pumps as above... on the lowest end, good sized canister/s or hang on power filters could do> Thanks for the help! Kind regards, Misty Johnson <Be chatting. Bob Fenner> Re: filter for reef tank... I forgot to mention that I have already purchased four MaxiJet 1200's for water movement. <Ah, good products> Initial life forms (as this is my first tank) will be my clean-up crew, maybe a cucumber, and about 5 fish (nothing big...love gobies, damsels and clowns, added gradually, of course). Then as $$ and tank progress permits, I'll upgrade the lighting to accommodate corals, mushrooms, other non-fish things. And after 6 months to a year, I really want a mandarin (or a pair...I could watch them all day)! I've heard nightmares about overflow/sumps flooding, but will do more research and add this if I can find something with which I'm comfortable. By then, I may have upgraded to a drilled tank. <Yes...> I've also found a nice-sized acrylic refugium at my LFS that I might get (as suggested down the line). Still figuring out the exact purpose of a refugium (is it just that...a refuge for smaller inhabitants?) <Many... see the piece on these tools on the WWM site> Need one of those little confused faces to put here! Thanks for the (continuing) help. <A pleasure. Bob Fenner> :-)Misty Re: Some questions about reefs: Filters Hi Bob, I setup a 2 foot tank under my display tank and everything is in the sump now, including heater, Eheim filter, UV light, skimmer and pump. I installed a hang-on type overflow. I switched off the power to the pump to see if the sump would overfill and it looks good. (Sounds good) I installed the Turboflotor 1000 multi and retired the SeaClone. I have a few questions about the Turboflotor. The model they gave me is for a 500-1000 liter tank. I only have about 350 liters. Will the skimmer be okay on my tank? (Yes... a much better choice) There are two adjuster valves which you can turn and this will adjust the height of the bubbles going into the collection cup. Sometimes some water leaks from them as the seal is not very tight. Is this a design fault or have I done something wrong? If I have, how do I fix it? (A little of both... do take the unit apart and put a swipe of silicone-grease like for camera O-rings on the seals... and raise the water level in the contact chamber to just under the collection cup...) I do have room to put a light over the sump and put substrate and live rock in there. I have read about this on the WWM site, but I just want the skimmer to kick in first and hopefully improve the water quality. You should have seen the salesman's face at my LFS when I brought a 2 foot tank instead of his special bio-ball (very small) tank. He was not happy. (Tough... you did the right thing) The corals are looking better today (I suspect the SeaClone was helping a bit). (Yes) The setup is very nice with the overflow and sump. I'm pleased that I did not have to have the tank modified to have an overflow and sump. If you want to have a look at what I have done, I can put some pictures up on the net, just let me know :) Warmest regards Lucien Cinc (In a few days... when I get back from Cabo-Baja-Mexico... the connections here are not rapido... Roberto Fenner) 100 gallon reef/fish tank, filtration choices, sources I've written a couple of times about the 100 gallon and thanks for your recommendations. I have finally gotten the filtration (sort of) and stand out of the way now on to lighting. <Hmm> My tank is 60'' long. I have been looking at the pc fixtures offered by championlighting and FF Xpress <Two good choices> Question: 1) I have noticed the light tubes are not 60''. They are somewhat shorter and inside the hood the bulbs overlap in the middle. This leaves about 6'' on either end of the fixture that is not covered by all four tubes but only two tubes. From my understanding, I would say the middle of the fixture is giving 4x 96 watts but the 6'' on either end of the fixture is giving 2x96 watts. Is this correct? Will the difference be enough to cause dead spots? Does it matter? <Good points, and practically speaking... not much...> 2) VHO bulbs are 60'' and it seems to me they would give a better distribution of light but I don't really know how I feel about the "180 degree built in reflector. . ." <With a white reflector above and to the sides this is a minor concern> 3) I've been looking at these new refugiums that hang on the back of the aquarium and are sold by Petwarehouse among others (about $100). The one I'm looking at is 24'' long and 4'' wide. Is this type of refugium worth having? <Absolutely... a friend and I experimented with making ones about like this (now made by/for CPR, Ecosystem...) and never got "to market", but have them working (now for years) on tanks here... they work.> 4) I have been reading GARF and the plenum idea appeals to me. Some other authors write that plenums work but a delicate balance is needed and plenums have the possibility of causing real problems with the tank. Assuming that you recommend having a plenum. . .could I use undergravel filter plates (stop up the pump hole) as a plenum? <Yes to all> I have nightmares about having 100 lbs of live rock in a tank and having to take all of it out because the plenum isn't functioning. Plenum--Refugium---Plenum----Refugium---BOTH? HELP!!! Other currently used filtration includes an Eheim canister and a Remora Aqua C skimmer. <Both would be better than just either one> 5) Would a sump with some live sand, Caulerpa spp., and live rock cancel the need for either a refugium or a plenum? <Hmm, supplant, yes, to a large degree...> As always, thanks for your generous (product unbiased) opinions. I'm trying to be budget conscious but jeez, there's so much equipment it's hard to tell what's needed. I called the guys at GARF about these questions and they wouldn't talk about anything they don't sell. Surprising . . . <Not surprising... but disappointing.> I want you guys to get an online store where I can use the good old debit card to buy books and more. . .at good prices. . . . <Yikesville! Another job!? Will send this suggestion along.> Friend in Fish, David Dowless <Thank you my friend. Bob Fenner> Seeking equipment advice for 55 gal Hi Bob, I've been reading your website on equipment information etc. but I wanted to ask your recommendations as it pertains to my tank set up I have on order. I've recently purchased a SeaClear acrylic 55 gallon tank which I am going to fill with live rock and the following fish: 2 percula clownfish, hippo tang, Banggai cardinal and a flame angel. <Okay> I've purchased the type of tank that has the pre-filter box inside the back corner of the tank as I'm going to have all equipment tubes etc. under the tank in the cabinet. <Sounds good> I'm seeking your recommendations on the following equipment I plan on buying as to which brands of the below listed items would be suitable for my tank: 1. Wet/Dry Filter <Most any... I like the CPR line (Creative Plastics Research, CPRUSA.com) for design, value... but many others will/would do.> 2. Protein Skimmer (free standing outside of the wet/dry filter type) <Hmm, well the tank is a bit small for one of the larger units... but if you think you might go to a larger system in future, a Turboflotor 1000... if not, maybe just a CPR unit here as well... will be fine when the live rock settles in> 3. Canister Filter for additional mechanical filtration (I'm going to get an EHEIM here) <Best choice on the planet> 4. Appropriate pumps for the skimmer and the wet/dry (I'm really uncertain here) <Eheim's would be best... service, reliability and value in the longer haul (last for years, lower energy consumption... whisper quiet)... outside pumping? Probably the low or semi-corrosive magnetic-drive series of Little Giants that are offered in the trade (the other lines produce too much waste heat, noise, and more volume and pressure than you require... direct drives are out> 5. How many powerheads would you recommend for a 55 gallon and which type would be good ?? <Two to four... Instant Oceans and Hagen's are best volume, service factor wise...> I'm buying with Quality and Ease of maintenance being my top priorities. I don't mind spending the money up front for quality equipment that will help keep my fish healthy. <I'm in the same club, of the same mind> Thanks in advance for your advice and guidance ! <Glad to be here. Bob Fenner> 110 gallon reef-filtration This is the email I meant to send you. I am not sure if you received it so I am sending it again. Thanks- <Ah, figured there was more.> Hello there, I have, of course, a million questions to ask and your response to any of them would be great. I have read your column and recent Q&A and have already answered numerous other questions. I have had numerous tanks during the past fifteen years, mainly brackish and fresh as well as one fish only salt. Now I am setting up my first reef tank. Actually it is going to be a half reef/half fish tank. I have always wanted to keep several anemone's and clownfish, a few tangs (purple and yellow, I know they may not be compatible, gobies, etc. and a few corals (some of the hardier, beginner types, not stony polyps to begin with). My tank is a 110 gallon glass Oceanic tank. not the reef ready version, also undrilled) (60x18x24) I purchased a Hamilton Tech ABS hood that has 2 175 watt MH (5500k) and four 55 watt power compact actinics. I paid an extra 30 for a second fan because I plan on placing this directly on the glass canopy of the aquarium. Extra heat should not be a problem, should it? <Hope not... only actual practice will tell.> My light may be a little excessive for what I want to keep, but it was a gift and I really enjoy the shadow effect you get with MH as compared to all PC. My big question relates to filtration. I have nearly a dozen Marine/Reef books (including yours) and three magazine subscriptions and have been debating this for the past six months prior to purchasing my tank. I also, over years in the hobby, have purchased and still have much equipment. <You, me, and a whole lot of other folks, I'll warrant.> I come across great deals and buy things that I save to use I the future. I have Eheim wet/dry filters. <Unfortunately, IMO, not one of their greater developments.> One rated for tanks up to 90 gallons and the other for tanks up to 160. These use a substance call Eheim Substrat. Small porous stones or rocks to conduct biological filtration. I like these because of the their ease in use and maintenance and the way they return water causing a wave. I have thought about using the larger one with a hang on protein skimmer (considering buying a reef devil III) as my filtration. Even thought about hooking up both Eheim filter and placing them on each side of the tank. Lots of water movement, along with a few pumps on the bottom of the tank for more movement. Would this work well? <Again, not a big fan of Eheim's wet-dry efforts... would build/buy a sump, add gear to it... like a needle-wheel skimmer...> I also have a LifeGuard fluidized bed filter. Would it be overkill to use that with the Eheim and the prot. skimmer? Could I have eventual nitrate problems? The kicker is that I do plan to have live rock in the tank as well. <This unit is also not well designed or constructed... but will work as a beginning "box"> As for that, I am contemplating using 75-100 lbs of Carib sea reef rock as my base and then purchasing 50-60 lbs of live rock to place on top. Thus, I guess I could stop using the live fluidized bed after all the live rock was seeded. Can you have to much biological filtration? <Actually yes... hard to balance aerobic, hypoxic and very low oxygenated bacterial actions in a closed system... better to not overdrive any... instead rely on lower stocking densities, less vs. more feeding, using plenty of live rock, purposeful or incidental live substrates... > Alternatively, I could use a sump. I have a 20 gallon long tank, as well as an ultra reef hang on prefilter with a double return. I also have a Zambezi 1000 in sump skimmer. This skimmer is 26 inches tall and about 6 inches in diameter. It uses a RIO 2100 pump. My hesitation in setting up a sump is the higher risk of flooding than with the Eheims and maintenance. The Zambezi is a tough fit into my cabinet and I am working with limited space in the area where the tank is. <Know we're starting to get somewhere.> Have you heard anything about Zambezi skimmers? It is made by Marine Enterprise International, makers of Crystal Sea salt. I know that most reefers following the Berlin method insist upon a sump and there are benefits as far as placing your heaters in there, dosing, water changes etc. What are your thoughts? <Rate these skimmers about in the "middle" quality and function wise. Also, would it be too much to set up the sump and run one of the Eheim Wet/Dry's for added filtration, water movement etc. <Hearing what gear you have, I would...> Your thoughts are greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance- Jim >> <You're welcome. Bob Fenner> New Reef Aquarium, Basement Filtration Dear Bob, Thanks to you, 4 books, and numerous resources on the Web my plans are near completion. (The Escobar book you suggested was most helpful in plumbing the basement system and designing a proper U/V flow control.) <Good to hear.> A 1 inch surface drain through a pre-filter feeds a TurboFlotor 1000 in its own small sump (so water level can be precisely controlled). Skimmer effluent and overflow of its sump goes to a 30 gal. heated and lighted sump. Another 30 gal. tank above the sump provides for mixing and warming new water and is fed from an R/O unit. This tank plus a valved bulkhead drain at the "down 25% level" of the aquarium allows for easy water exchange from the basement. I intend to monitor total system gallons by the level in the big sump and add fresh R/O water as needed. An Iwaki 70 RLT 1500 gph pump powers circulation from the big sump through a mechanical filter, optional use carbon filter, and a bypass valved 30 Watt U/V unit. A 1 inch line returns to a flexible surface discharge. Three Rio power heads provide additional circulation. Lighting will be four 48 inch VHO tubes in an Ice Cap unit. I have several decisions on which I beg your advice: I can use either a 25 inch deep tank or a 30 inch for more water and more viewing, do I have enough light for 30 inches? <Hmm, not really... less you want to mount much of your photosynthetic life up on your rock... and hard to work on... unless it's a "proportional" element... in other words, a huge system> Is there any way to drain off the filtered residue from the TurboFlotor unit or install a much larger cup? <yes... carefully tap and drain the collectant in a "milk jug"...> Do you have a preference on powered filters? I am considering a Triple Rainbow Lifegard, a Nu-Clear, or an Ocean Clear) <The last two are very similar, the LifeGard is a piece of junk...> Can you give me a source for bulkheads with pipe fittings rather than hose fittings? <Take a look through a recent issue of FAMA, Grainger Supply online...> Can you give me a source for drain strainers that will keep fish out? <Build your own... Out of acrylic, solvent... what I do.> Any other advice or suggestions will be most appreciated. Howard >> <Yikes, not a mind reader (at least today), seems like you may know more than I do anyway! Bob Fenner> Plastic, fantastic? Hello Bob, Just ran across your site a day or so ago, and I think it's great. I just set up a 75 gal reef tank,( well it's in the making). it's been cycling bout a month or so. I used BioZyme to help get the cycle under way as soon as possible very anxious). I also added some very fine woven plastic grid that I found browsing in Wal-mart in the crafts isles. I think it's called plastic canvas. But anyway... I added it to give a little extra area for bacteria growth in the filters sump. the cycle has already played out , and the only problem is the nitrite. and it's on the way down, bout .5 . I've have already added bout 70 lbs of live rock and live stock consist of 1 green chromis damsel, 1 key hole angel and 1 scooter blenny. all is well , so far... I know ... I was gonna yank the last of 5 damsels, but my wife put her foot down cause she pick it. My question is ... will the plastic grid be a problem if left in the tank, I always heard it's not needed on a reef and could cause problems. and my other question is... I added to much BioZyme cause my aragonite keeps trying to turn brown from the BioZyme, I've been using the vac on it and water changing bout 10 gal or so every 4 or 5 days to keep it at a min. how long does it take to play out, or what do I need to do. I don't think it can hurt anything, But it's very unattractive. Thanks for you time any help is greatly appreciated Gary Benningfield >> Hmm, I would be careful about changing most anything till the system really, thoroughly cycles... as in no nitrites... and probably would remove the plastic "canvas"... just out of general principle... for fear that it might not prove to be chemically inert in the long haul... Bob Fenner Building a sump Bob, How hard is it to build a sump? Can you
point me in a good direction (internet site) for instructions on how to
build one? <A sump is just a chemically inert, water-holding
container... you can use a tank, plastic basin, bucket... or cut and
solvent plastics together, have glass cut, cut it yourself and silicone
one together (like a fish tank)... most folks use thru-hull fittings...
necessitating drilling holes through whatever sort of material walls
they're using... relatively easy with all but glass... which should
be cut before assembly... or you can do without thru-hulls... just use
submersible pumps, or plumbing that is primed to take the water up and
over the side of the sump.... No internet instruction sites for this
sort of job as far as I know... maybe you and I can/should make one? If
this is a one-time job, I'd just buy a pre-made container...>
PS: Is a single MH 250 watt light sufficient for a 50 gallon reef tank?
(anemone's, corals, coralline algae, etc.....) <Yes, if the
animals can be carefully placed to use the intensity and spectral mix
of the light source> Bob Fenner Gracias, Mike Filtration and flow I have a 54 corner tank that is reef/fish and I am wondering if 50 lbs live rock and my CPR back pack 2r with carbon and phosphate removal in a biomedia bag put in the return chamber is enough for filtration? I have two rio 1100 for flow in the 54 corner, is that enough again it is a reef/fish tank. >> Call me a worry wart, but I would add a bit of redundancy here for your 54... Either a BIG hang on power filter, or a good canister filter....like an Eheim... The added biological, mechanical filtration at minimal operating cost will give you needed aeration, circulation, flexibility, margin for error... and peace of mind. Bob Fenner Sump I have a 29 gallon tank. My question is can this be turned into a sump? If so can you please provide me with instructions on how to build one and the materials required. >> Hmm, I would assume (and what I would do) that you're not going to cut the tank in question. You can make it into a sump using a submersible pump (or a canister filter of large flow rate), an in-tank, or hang-on skimmer, and a constant volume device... see these arrangements...at www.cprusa.com for illustrations. Bob Fenner 20 gallon mini I don't know if you would consider this a question. I was reading your Feb.. 4 articles when I saw your answer about a protein skimmer on a 30 gallon tank. You also suggested some other mechanical filtration. Do you really think another filter is really necessary in a reef tank where live rock is present and with regular water changes? Thanks for your information in your article. It was very helpful in figuring out my coralline algae problem. The alkalinity was causing my coralline to go white. >> Yes to other (mechanical mainly) filtration on such a system... May seem redundant, but as back-up for biological filtration, more water movement, aeration... destratification... a very worthwhile, low cost improvement to small tanks. And you're welcome. Bob Fenner Filtration Recommendations << Thank you for your advice. I have probed the internet heavily for anything that I could find on your suggesting an algae scrubber means of filtration, and I came up with the Leng Sy method found at www.ecosystemaquarium.com. I was wondering, is this what you are speaking of? The reason I ask is because they say that no additional filtration, such as a protein skimmer, should be incorporated with their method. What do you think of this? I am really quite confused about this system, as it is completely foreign to me. Also, could I mix dead sand with live sand to cut costs? My last question is what you think of denitration units (the not-natural kind, such as that by NatuReef). Thank you very much, Brian Towers >> Yes, this is exactly the type of filter system I am/was referring to... and some people do run such systems without, with, or temporarily or scheduled on/off a skimmer.... I run mine with... but they are not (the ones I use) very "efficient"... Yes to the dead sand becoming live... no problem with mixing some or placing the live on top.... it all will become live. I am not a big fan of electronic and the drip/sugar anaerobic box types of denitrators... and especially don't agree with much of the advertisement claims of many of these products.... Water changes do more than just rid systems of nitrates... and are by far cheaper and better ways of preserving water quality.... and live rock, deep(er) sand beds, live macroalgae, anaerobic/hypoxic media (like Ehfi-mech, Siporax Beads...) are far better than these expensive, unpredictable products... Bob Fenner Live Rock and UGF Bob, I have a 55 gallon fish only aquarium that has been setup about 1.5 years now. I am using a UGF with 2 AquaClear 802 powerheads and about 2.5 inches of crush coral for substrate. Other filtration are Fluval 304 and Whisper 3 power filter. I will be adding 45 pounds of Fiji live rock to this tank after it is done curing. I would like to know if I should get rid of the UGF or go strictly with the crush coral and some reef janitors. My early goal is to try and keep some of the "more easy to keep" corals in this tank. >> Many, many (okay about everyone else) would proffer a different response... but if it were my tank, I'd just remove the powerheads from the undergravel filter and the risers and leave the rest as is... maybe placing some plastic "caps" (most anything non toxic) over the UGF riser holes... as an ersatz plenum... And focus on getting good lighting, a skimmer... before going along with your introduction into the beginning reef organisms. Bob Fenner, who can hear folks screaming already Bob, I am very interested in more information on your reply today regarding the high nitrates and your recommendation on the lamp/pad for the trickle filter to have algae reduce nitrates. Could you please be more specific. How do I get around the trickle cover plate with the two water intakes? I have a 225 Gallon with a 300 gallon wet dry and a 250 gallon skimmer (both by Sealife Systems). My nitrates are presently at 12.5 due to recent dosages of Dolphin products (Four stages: Bio booster, Total, Bio De nitrate and Clarifier) just started using them this past week). Nitrates were between 25 and 50 before. If I go a couple of weeks without a minimum 25% water change, I am guaranteed nitrate levels in excess of 80. I would really like a natural way of reduction without the use of chemicals. Obviously healthier for the fish and much more healthier for my wallet. I have two liters of Matrix in my sump, which is said to be great for housing anaerobic bacteria. If I add the Siporax and the Eheim product you mention, will this guarantee better efficiency? How much more should I add? My other problem is I can't get my phosphates below 2-5 PPM. I use PhosGuard to no avail. I use a Maxima RO with 0 phosphate reading for my salt mix (Kent or reef crystals). This creates a great need for constant glass cleaning due to dust like film within two days of cleaning, which turns to brown algae within 7-10 days if left alone. My tank receives a bit of indirect available light for a little while and I use 4 - 96 watt power compact bulbs about 4-5 hours per day. I enjoy your Q&A very much. Please help. >> Glad to be of assistance. If there is room on top of your drip tray arrangement, you may place Dacron polyester filter pad material of any determinate thickness on top of it, or barring this possibility, the cover can be removed and the pad placed on top of the wet-dry media... Full spectrum intense lighting (my fave is compact fluorescents... available in ready made hoods in many sizes now. above and directing the light to the pad itself... maybe two layers of pads if your system is very messy... the upper pad rotated out and the newer/fresher one below becoming the top... with a new piece inserted under it. Beneficial, fast metabolising algae will grow on and in the pad... and the removal of solids by periodically switching the pads will aid in the removal of a/the principal source of your nitrates, phosphates... food. Can't offer guarantees... and need to know more about the livestock, maintenance and foods/feeding of your system to guess at how much more anaerobe media might significantly contribute to nitrate reduction in your system...but it is considerable for your size system and apparent inputs of nutrients... Have you considered an illuminated algae/mud or algae/Live rock filter/sump? You sound like a good candidate for one... that and pulling the wet-dry media from your filter would likely solve your induced nutrient problem. Hmm, and it may seem contrary... but you'd be better off boosting your macro and live rock algae growth in your main system by extending your light period... I realize this is a bunch to say in a short space/time... and there is a need for clarification, a time frame for proposed changes... but these are the directions I would investigate/go: Bob Fenner I recently purchased a 72 gallon bow front tank and had the opportunity to buy it w/ an overflow already installed. I have been reading a lot on reefs (which is the choice for this new tank) and it seems the way to go is to leave it to the live rock. I plan on a lot of water movement and using a protein skimmer and high quality, light and porous, live rock (and SHOO lighting). I guess my question is, should I go w/ the overflow or leave it as is. I have not picked the tank up yet and can easily get a hold of one w/ an overflow. Thanks, Carter Mason >> I would utilize the overflow... to a sump and return from below... Much more flexibility (I'd put your skimmer, maybe a plenum or at least a light/dark cycle algae filter with more live rock...), and overall stability for your system... Bob Fenner what exactly is wet/dry filtration. I have 2 bio-wheels on my 55 gallon tank that say they produce wet/dry filtration. is making my powerhead spray a lot of bubbles also producing oxygen? is it necessary to have a wet/dry filter? my friend has an Eheim canister wet/dry, is this as good as the sump models? >> Hmmm, wet-dry is a type of filtration, and also an aspect of filtration... that involves the use of a medium (usually plastic, sometimes calcareous, vitreous material), that is exposed (by dripping, spraying, pumping) to system water, mixing both air and water there to optimize the growth and metabolism of aerobic microbes to rid the water of the more common nitrogenous wastes, ammonias and nitrites... which otherwise may build-up in concentration, poisoning livestock. Such gear/approaches to bio-filtration are useful for systems with lots and variable amounts of livestock (like a new tank with lots of live rock, or a wholesale facility)... but they do have their downsides... principal of which is the consequences of driving the forward reaction (nitrification) of biological nitrogen metabolism... in short, wet-dries are nitrate factories... and the presence/high concentration of nitrates poses its own problems. The Marineland/Aquaria Inc. Bio-Wheel (tm) products are only partial wet-dry filters... and for the most part, don't create dire conditions like the larger/real wet-dry filter set-ups (like the under tank models). Wet dry filters are not absolutely necessary. Many people keep reef tanks without them (I do). The Eheim wet-dry is not my favorite product of this fine company, but it does work, and is superior in design, workmanship and function than many of the smaller wet-dry filter units on the market. Power heads set-up to discharge air/water together do increase oxygen, and gaseous exchange overall. Bob, Thank you for your response, I was not expecting it. From your response I guess I need to get some mud ;-) I forget who, but someone is really pushing some "miracle" mud out there in cyberspace, maybe I need to find them. Wayne You know, there is Leng Sy, I think his company name: Aquatic Eco Systems...? He's got a website and advertises in FAMA... or you might ask your dealer if they'll give you the mud/muck from their live rock curing processes (yuck but effective), or even keep studying and make your own (not hard to do), or even consider a trip to the "beach" or having a friend/relation mail you some. You don't need much. Get Leng's info. and decide. Bob Fenner Elegance Coral decline > Bob, > I read your q/a in FFExpress, sporadically. But, I always learn something. My question is concerning the elegance coral (Catalaphyllia jardinei). I have one that looked great coming from the store and continued to look that way for about 2 weeks in my 75 gal. tank. After feeding it some frozen brine and silversides (the second time I fed it in the 2 weeks) it started to decline. It seemed to collapse then swell up around the edges and it hasn't extended it's tentacles much in a couple of weeks now. There is one area where it has pulled away from the skeleton. I checked today for an odor and it still smells healthy. Total of 4 weeks in tank. I subscribe to a couple of bulletin boards and posted a question concerning the elegance and almost immediately got a number of responses... all of them commenting that they either were, or had experienced this same problem. > The elegance is supposed to be an easy coral, what is going on? Why are so many experienced aquarist having problems with this "easy" coral? > Tank parameters: > 75 gal > 9 months old > 0 nitrite > 0 ammonia > 8.1 - 8.2 ph > <5 nitrate > 140 lb Live Rock (Fiji and Old Florida) > 85 lb Live sand (gulf of Mexico/ keys) > Tank inhabitants > Open brain coral -- doing great > Torch coral -- doing great > Flowerpot -- brought back from the brink of death > Devil's hand -- doing great > elegance -- mentioned above > Green star polyps -- doing great > Yellow polyps -- doing great > Regular assortment of snails and hermits > Skunk cleaner shrimp > coral banded shrimp > sally lightfoot crab > Foxface Rabbitfish > Naso Tang (I know he will outgrow this tank, by that time I'll have a > 180 ready for him) > Psychedelic Mandarin -- fat and sassy > any idea's? >> Thank you > Wayne Pierce > Hey Wayne, thanks for writing. Yours may be the final goosing I need to finally get my family Caryophyllidae, Stony Corals We love and hate article finished. Catalaphyllias/Elegance corals are NOT easy to keep. One more time on their requirements:1) Not clean water. They live mostly in inner lagoons and reef flats with high nutrient levels... in the mud...2) Horizontal orientation... Not vertical or on an angle as in NOT on an incline of live rock. They live in the mud.3) Not endlessly blasted by current coming from one (linear) direction. Where do they live in the wild? In the mud, where it's pretty calm. There's more, but you get my point. What's more I'm amazed that more folks in the trade and hobby don't 'fess up about these gorgeous corals. Historically they don't do much better than the notorious Poritid family genus Goniopora... But you did by your own admission, bring one of these (flowerpot) corals back from the brink. Maybe you can have the same success with the Elegance. Do you have another system or even a sump you can make into an algae or turtle grass and elegance habitat? Do you mind a few tens of ppm nitrate there? Bob Fenner About six months ago I purchased a used 135 gal reef tank complete with all fish and corals. After about three months the biological filtration crashed and at the recommendation of my local store owner replaced the homemade sump its pump, the two magnum 350 pumps used only for circulation, and the four powerheads with a commercial trickle filter system, a single 1040gph pump and a protein skimmer. My question is should the bio-balls be removed or let the system operate as it is? The coral, fish, and inverts all are doing well and water quality stays excellent but I have been told not to run the balls in a reef system. Thank You Randy >> I hope you held on to all the used gear, it's still useful for this and/or other systems... And yes, I'd remove the bio-balls myself... as they tend to spawn nitrate profusion... However, for your particular circumstances, if all is going well, let it ride (many reefers have wet dry media)... you can always remove the plastic media if/when you see the mal-affects of accumulating nitrates. Bob Fenner Hi, I've been reading your Daily Q&As and find them very insightful. I have kept various freshwater fish for several years but I'm new to the Saltwater hobby. My current set-up is a 30 gallon with 30pds of live rock. My only livestock are a Lemon Peel Angelfish and 2 Yellow Tailed Damsels. I do not plan on adding anymore fish. I run two hang-on style filters, a Penguin (wet/dry) Bio Wheel 330, and a Skilter 250 for protein skimming. I have been experiencing a problem with brown algae diatoms. I find myself scrubbing and sifting sand every few days. Is there a way I can reduce the brown algae? To start, I plan on investing in a better skimmer in the very near future. I have not tested the nitrates but I'm sure they are high as I've heard wet/dry filters increase nitrates. My home is small and I prefer to use hang-on style filters. Would a AquaClear 300 Filter be better as far as nitrate reduction is concerned? Thank you in advance for you assistance. Best Regards Hezekiah White >> Well, I couldn't find the previous post myself !!! So, let's try this again. No, the Aquaclear wouldn't help... the other filters you have are fine. And yes the better protein skimmer will help... And maybe the use of a chemical filtrant... like activated carbon or Polyfilter. Bob Fenner Well I don't know what will happen to the Eclipse once I take down the 15 gallon, or maybe I won't take it down, just move it. But that 33 gallon will be great, I appreciate the advice. I'm considering using CPR's design to build my own under the tank wet dry, with a Bak pak for skimming and circulation. How do I keep the whole sump from siphoning in the tank during a power outage? thanks again- -Chris >> Check that design out again Chris, or better, go see one in action... at a local fish store? The overflow box has a fail safe (unless gravity goes) spillway arrangement that only allows the tank water to get into the box down to a certain level. Do however make sure and not discharge the water too far down on the other end of your filtration/circulation system... and/or install a check valve on that end... lest your tank back siphon on the discharge side in the event of power/pump failure. Bob Fenner Hello, I am a new to Marine Aquaria. I have a 100 gallon tank and cabinet stand that I bought used (See attached picture) three months ago. It came with a UV sterilizer and a Modulfilter, but no skimmer. The tank is plumbed through the bottom and the filtration stuff is underneath the tank in a cabinet. So I am looking for a skimmer, but I would prefer to put it under the tank in the cabinet if possible. If it is possible do I run the risk of losing all the water from my tank if the power goes out? {Feel free to edit if advertising for AquaC is inappropriate} I have been looking on the Net at AquaC's EV-150 protein skimmer (http://www.proteinskimmer.com/products/ev150.htm). A RIO 2500 pump is recommended. It does make me feel comfortable that Scripps is using it. AquaC's web site says it can be installed "In-Sump, Stand-Beside, and Inline." I think I have a good grasp of "Stand-Beside" but I'm foggy on "In-Sump" and "Inline." Your comments and suggestions are appreciated. Help me Obi-Wan Kenobi, you're my only hope, Dale Perry Nice picture... and I do know and am friends with Jason Kim, owner/operator of Aqua-C and really like his/their products (they work)... but I'm also mystified after looking at his website, about what he means under the heading "inline" for these "open" configuration skimmers... As far as I am aware there is no way to rig one of these up with your shown set-up... a line coming into a little giant magnetic drive centrifugal pump, to the pressurized canister filter (modu) to and through an Aquanetics UV sterilizer and then back to the tank.... Now here's what I would really do. Keep all the gear you have... in the order it is now... and add the gear to take out (constant overflow box) the water from your tank, and a good size (the biggest you can fit in) under the tank sump/filter box, and rig up that Aqua-C skimmer in it... then connect the little giant pump, cartridge filter and UV on the discharge side. The transit volume (water in play, and going to the sump in the event of pump, power failure) should be tested (by turning the whole thing off) and you marking the maximum depth you want to fill the sump (permanently), so there is no chance of the sump overflowing... Is this clear (enough?). If you don't know where to start gathering the gear together for this GREAT improvement, take a look at Creative Plastic Research's website (CPR)... they have the "other" parts... You don't need/want the wet-dry parts... just the sump, box, hoses.... And, please check for me... there is a band clamp on the Modu-Filter Discharge isn't there? I can't quite make it out from your pic. Bob Fenner finally made the big decision - going to graduate from my eclipse filtered 15 gallon mini reef to a 33 gallon long reef. I'm considering for filtration a COMPLETE Berlin, a wet dry trickle w/overflow. but I really don't want a plumbing mess to deal with (the wet dry trickle shouldn't be too bad) would a CPR Bak pak be adequate? or do I need the undertank Berlin or W/D, or can you even recommend another system to fit my needs Thanks again Chris >> Yes to all (wish I had that Eclipse, just suggested to a friend yesterday to buy one as a gift...), but I would also suggest adding another outside filter for added circulation, mechanical and biological filtration. Either a canister type (Eheim is my fave, the bigger the better) with Siporax, or Bio-Mech (one-time purchase), or whatever brand hang-on type... Bob Fenner, who thanks you! Filtration Hi Bob, I am planning on upgrading my
tank to a 125 F/O w/triggers and would like a suggestion on which
wet/dry to purchase. The mail order carries AMiracle would this be ok I
would like the model with the built in skimmer. Also I am thinking of
not getting the built in overflows would this also be ok. I plan on
putting this in the wall so I will only have top and bottom access.
Money is somewhat of an issue at this time, what am I talking about, it
is an issue all the time. Thanks in Advance. >> This make/model
should be fine. In fact, more important than brand/manufacturer is the
actual operation... cleanliness, maintenance of an adequately sized,
circulated wet-dry. Especially with big eaters/defecators like
triggerfishes, you want to oversize the filter and pump... And just a
short plug here for live rock. Do consider putting it in to more
completely filter your water. Bob Fenner << Hello! I got your
reply about what to do with my Foxface with a voracious appetite. I
would really like to take your suggestion of trying to grow the
Caulerpa in the sump under the tank. My concern is this...it is
dark under there (of course) and I don't know how little light I
can get away with for these plants. I will have to mount some sort of
light fixture under there and I need advise about what size and wattage
of bulbs...I'm assuming fluorescent...please help! It is a 92gal
corner aquarium sort of rounded triangle shape on a stand of similar
proportions. the sump underneath is rather crowded in due to the
protein skimmer and other pumps, equipment, etc. The sump holds about 4
- 5 gallons of water I believe...have I given you enough information?
Thank you for your patience with beginners. (: Ruth >> Ruth, look
into one of those less expensive compact fluorescents that come put
together in a hood (they're made in China, and your dealer can get
them from the livestock trade in Los Angeles... have them contact me if
they're having trouble locating these). Leave the small wattage CF
on continuously. This is best for your system, and will not harm the
Caulerpa. There are many sizes and wattages, but just get one that will
fit, and don't worry. Are you sure re the volume of that sump? 4-5
gallons? That's puny... you might want to look into fitting a
larger (as big as you can get, make, have made) one instead... or is
there room to mount another sump nearby? Even on the same level as the
main tank? Patience? We are all beginners. Bob Fenner
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