Clown fish how soon  6/4/07 Hi, I have clown fish in a 10 gallon tank with a cleaner shrimp. and wanted to know if I could put it in my new 30 gallon tank I ran it for 4 days and on 5th day put in my 3 stripe damsel. <... may be troubles with these two here in such a small volume> Is to soon to put my clown fish and cleaner shrimp in yet. And also is it to soon to put a baby clown trigger. <No...> I know this tank is not that big but I will be getting a 125 gallon tank soon. <Then wait till you have this system up and going> And don't know when my LFS will be getting baby clown triggers in again. Thank you <Read my friend... on WWM, elsewhere re these species needs, compatibility. And run your messages through your grammar checker before sending to us. Bob Fenner>

Questions regarding Nano reef (5.5g AGA): lighting and compatibility. Small Tank With Big Plans   5/25/07 Dear Crew, <Scott F. your Crew member tonight!> I'm not sure who will be the one reading this letter, but thanks in advance to that helpful person! I have a few questions; any help would be greatly appreciated. My system is an AGA 5.5g Nano reef.  I would like to keep the following:    - Mushrooms galore    - Purple cap (and similar corals)    - Pulsing Xenia    - Finger Leather    - Yellow Polyps    - Various Zoanthids    - Dwarf Seahorses (couple)    - Peppermint Shrimp    - Scarlet Leg Hermit Crabs <In my humble opinion, this is too many corals of too many different types in too small a body of water. You'll have long term problems with chemical interactions between the various corals, particularly the Finger Leather and the Montipora (I assume that's what you mean by "Purple Cap"). In a system this small, I'd limit myself to one or two corals. Zoanthids would be a nice choice, because you could get a few different color varieties in this small space. Or, the best choice would simply be Xenia. They add movement, interest, and grow rapidly.> After doing extensive research, I confirmed that all of the animals I picked are compatible with dwarf seahorses (except Zoanthids, of which I am unsure). <I am not aware of any danger they would pose to the Seahorses. Although the crabs are generally inoffensive, they can stomp on and irritate your corals. If your dealer or other source for these crabs mis-identifies the species of crab, you could end up with a potentially dangerous one...Just something to think about when considering keeping crabs with Seahorses.> Formerly I wanted to keep a blue clam, but after reading through the FAQs, I found that the clams are best left for larger aquaria.  Some people also said that Linckia Sea Star (Blue) also need larger aquaria to survive, but I would like to get expert advice from you regarding that matter. <Avoid the Linckia at all costs! They typically require large, long-established systems with large areas on which to feed on detritus, etc. A small system will simply not provide the necessary food sources for the sustainable husbandry of these creatures.> My second question pertains to lighting.  I searched for days for appropriate lighting for an AGA 5.5g.  While I love DIY projects, I've got two DIY projects queued, not to mention studying for GRE's and what not, so this is a bad time for another DIY.  Would the 20" 1x28W Coralife Aqualight hood w/ 50/50 be a good choice, or do you suppose I must go with higher intensity lighting (e.g., the 96W variant of the Coralife Aqualight)? <Depending upon the photosynthetic animals that you'll be keeping, this could vary widely. For versatility, I'd probably opt for the 96 watt system.> (Since the AGA 5.5g tank measures 16 inches long, there are not many lights that can neatly fit that are also appropriate for a Nano reef.) At first, I wondered if it would be a good approach to get the 96W simply as a precaution in the event of an upgrade to say, a 10g tank.  In that light, would it be a wise maneuver? <As above, I'd also opt for the higher wattage light. However, there are more and more small lighting systems coming to market all the time as "Nano reefs" gain in popularity. Do check some of the e-tailers out there for what's new in Nano lighting systems.> Again, thank you very much. Faithfully Yours, Jason C. Wang <Good luck, Jason! Hope your system is very successful! Regards, ScottF.>

Turbos in a Picotope   5/24/07 Hello, I've asked a few questions before and they have all been answered very quickly and completely. <Glad to hear!> So thanks. <Welcome!> I have 2 Turbos and 2 hermits in a 3-gallon Picotope. Questions are the Turbos and hermits have been working over time to rid the tank of unwanted hair and other algae. And doing an excellent job. Are these cuc <???> going to consume their food source? <Hermits are generally scavengers and typically aren't too picky. The Turbos will need sufficient microalgae to survive.  I would not add any Turbos to your current setup.> I would like to get a cleaner shrimp or coral banded also, just want to know if they will have enough to eat. <The shrimp will not compete with the Turbos for food.  Food and your water quality will likely be more of an issue in such a small system.> Pico will eventually have mush,<mushrooms and mush?> polyp and other soft corals, <Various Cnidarians in such a small system will likely cause problems with allelopathy. Please research each coral's potential for chemical warfare before placing in your Picotope.  "Aquarium Corals", a book by Eric Borneman, is an excellent resource you might consider employing.>     Thanks again Joe <Welcome!  Mich>

NMA Books/stocking 20L Nano-reef    5/16/07 Hi all, <Alex> First - I really enjoyed the RI book - when is the sequel due out? <Indeterminate... JasonC is working on the two fish books/volumes... but don't know at this point... maybe later this year> Secondly - I'm trying to settle on fish for my upcoming 20L ("L" for long, not liter) Nano-reef (with 10 gal refugium).  I would like to have a group of very small fish, and am liking the idea of a group of conspecific gobies.  I understand that this will work with Elacatinus sp - <Mmm, maybe... really only with very closely related ones... best from the same "batch", tank-raised... see your dealer re ordering from an outfit that produces these if this is the route you're going> what about Stonogobiops, e.g. yasha or nematodes? <Can be done... in pairs here>   Also, for the latter and for shrimp gobies in general, how necessary is the shrimp commensalism to their happiness in captivity? <Not... though makes for far more interesting behavior, viewing> Will they thrive without a shrimp if all other parameters are OK? <Yes> I am thinking to avoid Gobiodon clown gobies as I would like to grow some SPS frags and they can apparently be hard on such. <Yes... and each other with crowding...> Also, I would like to have one small "active" fish to complement the more demersal/passive behavior of the gobies.  My thinking is leaning toward one of the smallest of the Flasher or Fairy wrasses (e.g. P. carpenteri or C. filamentosus), or possibly a six-line, <Mmm, no... not enough room here> but am wondering whether this would be too large/active a tankmate for the gobies, and whether a lone male Flasher would look good, or if they only color up/display in the presence of conspecific females?   <This latter really> Other possibilities for my "active fish" would be a small Basslet (Gramma brasiliensis?  Or a Swissguard or Candy Basslet?  Blue Assessor?). <Again... really too small a volume for these>   Really don't want Nemo (or any other damselfishes), and am cool at best to Firefish (would love to have other Dartfishes if I had a larger tank, but I don't). <Correct> Thoughts on the above and other suggestions welcome! Thanks in advance Alex <Mmm, have you read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/smmarsysstkgfaqs.htm and the series linked above? Have you seen Scott Michael's "Reef Fishes" pocket guide book? Bob Fenner>

Re: New hobbyist to marine aquariums   - 5/18/07 Thanks for your reply.  We only have a 58 litre tank (15 US gallons) and can only have about 4 fish altogether so need them to get on. <Mmm, four very easygoing fishes perhaps... the ones you have are not...> We have had an Anemone appear on the rock and also a spaghetti worm as well as a snail and we have bought a hermit crab. <...> We currently only have the two fish an ocellaris clownfish and presumed Dottyback?  We should have asked at the shop about the species but as we are novices and the shop knew this, we thought we were buying compatible fish and with all of the excitement (2 very eager children) didn't write it down - I can't find it in the books either!. <I'd go back to the shop and ask...> Looking through the book I have it does show that Dottybacks are compatible with clownfish <Some species... but not in small volumes...> and that they can both be mildly aggressive.  I was hoping you may the best next step for us. <Me?> Would it be OK for us to introduce another ocellaris clownfish now? <... no my friend... your system is too small...> I had read that you needed to buy them together if they were to be pairs, otherwise you shouldn't mix more than one of each species in a tank?  Any help would be of value. PS: We have tried to photo the blue fish but it won't stay still long enough! <Do make a trip to the local library... check out and read a recently published book on Marine Aquarium keeping... spend some time reading... You're setting yourself up for failure with the present slipshod approach to the hobby... Bob Fenner>

Re: Compatibility question for new marine setup   - 5/18/07 Thank you so much for the prompt reply, and Mr. Fenner, let me say your book is far and away my favorite of all the books I have read on the subject of marine fishkeeping!   <Am glad you have benefited from its perusal> Ok, I will stay away from the clown goby, although I will admit I am a bit sad as everything I have read says they are wonderful fish with great personalities. <As stated, live on, within SPS colonies... on which they derive nutrition... Not actually/generally easily kept>   But I would hate for the little guy to be unhappy since we are not planning on having corals, or to be tormented by the bi-color blenny.  "Sigh..."   <Yes> But in that case, I would like to add some yellow to our tank, so instead of the bi-color blenny, what about either the Midas blenny (I like that he will swim around and not stay hidden all the time) or the Canary Lyretail Blenny? <A good choice> Again, the biggest questions being would either be a good choice for a novice aquarist like myself, be compatible with the hex aquarium and other tankmates (the blackcap Basslet, a pair of ocellaris clownfish, and a flame angel)? <This tank is a bit small for a Loricula... but the others will likely go, be fine... and there are MANY other choices...> Thank you so much for taking the time to respond.  I can imagine the number of questions you get <A few dozen a day...> and how busy you must be, but I greatly appreciate your input and advice.  Nothing I would like more than to prevent any newbie mistakes that could result in harm the life I am so looking forward to keeping.   Jamie <Am happy to co-conspire with you... You're doing fine. Bob Fenner>

Nano-Reef Stocking    5/15/07 Hey Crew, <Hello.> I have a ten gal. Nano with a small yellow clown goby, and four dwarf seahorses. <Too much and wrong type of livestock for this type of tank.> If I were to add a chalk Basslet, would I be over crowding the tank? <Already 'tis my friend.> Also, does the amount of bio-filtration (macroalgae, live rock etc. .) reduce the needed frequency for water changes? <Mmm, not in your case, you'll be needing' at least 20% weekly or bi-weekly on this tank.> I don't really have a problem with water changes, but it just seems a shame to waste more water than I need to. guess I'm in the wrong hobby) :) <Please see our Nano articles on the main site.> Thanks! <Welcome.> Amanda <Adam J.>

BTA, Entacmaea quadricolor in a Nano Tank -- 5/8/07 Hello Crew, <Hi Matt, Brenda here>   Throughout this past year I have relied heavily on your FAQ's to obtain knowledge in proper husbandry. <Great!  Happy to hear you find it helpful.> This particular is regarding a new setup with a 24G JBJ Nano Cube. I have used 'cured' rock from my 200 gallon reef of over a year, along with water from the same tank to quickly cycle the new Nano Cube. <Did you transfer any of the sand?  An established sand bed is important.> My Nano setup is: 150 watt Viper Light, Remora Protein Skimmer, Koralia Powerhead, 35 Lbs Live Rock, JBJ Auto Top off, Milwaukee Ph Monitor and so on. My question is this, with careful weekly water changes and diligent checking of water parameters, is it possible to have several 2-3 rose anemones in this species only tank? <It is possible, but I don't recommend it.  Water quality can go down hill fast in smaller tanks.  One anemone can quickly out grow a tank of that size.  Also, a powerhead can be deadly to an anemone.> Also, what is the proper temperature to maintain such creatures? I am hovering around 77-78 right now. <79 -- 81> I would appreciate any input as I value your experience highly. Thanks, Matt <You're welcome!  Brenda>

Oceanic 29 Gallon Bio Cube. Euph/(frogspawn) in Nano Reef?  -- 05/08/07 Hi crew. <Hi.> Before I get to the question I just want to say how helpful the site is. <Go on'¦'¦'¦'¦'¦> VERY!!! <Great; thanks!> Anyways I would just like to know if you think that the Oceanic 29 Bio Cube has lights powerful enough to keep a frogspawn coral healthy and happy? <Tis' borderline. Not only the lighting but the size of the aquarium will make it difficult to keep the chemistry stable for this animal. But it is doable.> It comes with 2 36w pc's. <I would make sure both are 10,000k bulbs and replace them every 6 to 9 months as PC's depreciate in lumens at an alarming rate in comparison of other types of lighting.> If it is not, I heard of this  website called nanocustoms.com where they mod nanosystems. I just want to know what you think of this site, <Am familiar with it. Have not used it personally, though I know many who have and have been very satisfied. Can't give you a personal opinion really as I have nothing to base it off of. Having said that modding the original set-up may void the warranty. And I believe, though I am not sure, that nanocustoms gets around this by offering their own warranty. At the least it is something you should look into.> if you've heard of it and would 4 36w pc's be enough? <Yes but then there are heating issues to be concerned about.> Also they have a skimmer on that site that fits into the back of the Bio Cube made by Sapphire which I never heard of, do you know if it is a good quality or not? <No am not familiar with it either, though any skimmer is better than none'¦.to many nano-'ers go skimmer-less. Read this to; http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nanoreefsysart.htm .> Just looking for your input. <^^ There it is.> Thank you. <Welcome, Adam J.>

Compatibility for 25 gal tank -- 04/30/07 Hi there, <Howdy> I have a question regarding compatibility of fish, corals and invertebrate. I started   25 gal saltwater tank with 25 lbs of live rocks , hang on filter and Fission Nano Skimmer. Temperature, PH and salinity are perfect.  Its been running like that for three weeks now . I put Javanese Damsel and couple of Nassarius snails after two weeks of running and started the protein skimmer at the same time. Fish and snails are  doing fine even though the Nitrite level has been  rising by third week. My question is ; what kind of fish , corals and invertebrates should I put to match with the Javanese Damsel after my tank cycles? <... a wide selection...>   I saw the list of Fish that would do good in Nano reef but I don't like most of them , except Clownfish.  The kinds of Fish I was thinking about were; Clownfish,  Damsel,  Few different types of  Chromis, Spotted  or  Banggai  Cardinals (or both) ,  Dwarf Angel , <Maybe a "dwarf dwarf"... covered on WWM> Clown or Rainfordi goby (or both).  Also wanted to put some  Zoos ,  Mushroom Corals   and  tiny Starfish  and few different kind of Snails. Please advise which of them from my choice list I can put in there after the time is right without crowding. Also how many fish I can put in the 25 gal reef tank ? <About three to four cubic inches...> Can I put two different kinds of Clownfish ? <No...> Or two of same kind of Clownfish? How about two different types of Damsel or two of the same Damsel ? Your insight would be highly appreciated. Sincerely, VICTOR <All of this is covered on WWM... give a go at the indices, search tool, looking up the groups, species you list... Re their Systems, Compatibility... Bob Fenner>

Nano Compatibility 4/25/07 Hi Crew, <Hello> I have a 10 gallon with a clown goby (3 years),  a spotted cardinal (3 years), a royal Gramma (2 years) and a pair of neon gobies(1 year). <Seems like a lot of fish to me.> When I got the Gramma he was about half the size he is now. I think he would be better off in a larger tank and I would like to replace him with a fire fish.  <I definitely think he would be better off in a bigger tank, but I would not replace him.> And he bullies the cardinal. <Yep, they do that.> Is there any reason to think the Firefish and Neons would not get along? <Probably, but in such a small area all bets are off.>  Also what is the life expectancy of the Gramma. <10 to 15 years probably, although few live that long.> I couldn't sell him if he can not be expected to live much longer.  <Most marine fish are very long lived when properly house.> Thanks <Welcome> <Chris>

29 gallon cleanup crew  4/25/07  Good Evening! I have a question regarding a suitable clean up crew for my 29 gallon setup. Everywhere I go seems to have their own package of different animals. I'll explain my setup and if you don't mind, could you tell me what would be an ideal clean up crew. Current inhabitants include 1 ocellaris clown, 1 scooter blenny, 1 rock flower anemone, <Not a good animal to mix with the other Cnidarian Classes...> 1 green Ricordea, couple of red mushroom polyps, 1 small colony of blue zoos, 3 small giant sun polyps, and 1 sally Lightfoot. After further reading, I'm finding out the sally may not be such a good idea... I'll keep a close watch. My sand bed is CaribSea aragonite 1 1/2 inches deep. The only other animals I'm likely to ever put in this tank are some more Corallimorphs and the like. <Again... this mix is a disaster waiting to happen...> I do have a small hair algae problem. Thank you very much in advance for any info you can provide. I'm grateful that there are people like you guys who help guys like me so much. Have a good evening      Jacob <...? Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marscavart.htm and the linked files above... and on WWM re Cnidarian Compatibility... Per our instructions, learn to/use the indices, search tool before writing us. Bob Fenner>

Stocking question, small reef, and FYI, re: der. of Yasha haze...  4/24/07 Hello Crew, <Eric> Long time reader, first time writer here.  (Actually, I wrote about a week ago and didn't receive a response, so I'm trying again.) <Good> I have a 7 gallon (5 gallons of water) tank (30cm x 30cm x 30cm) with a little under 3kg of live rock, a Stonogobiops yasha and an Alpheus randalli.   Lighting is 40W of compact fluorescent.  All filtration is biological via the live rock, and I have a power head and a hang-on filter with the media removed which combine to circulate the water 25 times per hour.   Ammonia and nitrite are at zero and nitrate is at 5ppm.  SG is 1.024 and pH is steady at 8.3.  Alkalinity is at 4 mEq/l.  (All data is from Red Sea tests.) Can you recommend a second fish that will be comfortable in this size tank? <Some of the very small, easygoing Pomacentrids, Apogonids, Blennioids, Gobioids... many possibilities> The aquarium stores I've visited here in Japan have made all sorts of suggestions, but I'm pretty doubtful about all of them.  I'd really like to find a compatible fish to add, preferably one that is a free swimmer, because the tank seems lonely with the goby and shrimp hiding almost all of the time. Also, FYI, I see lots of different spellings, variations on the common name for Stonogobiops yasha, and I thought you might be interested to know that the fish's common name in Japanese is "yasha haze"  "Haze" is pronounced "hah-zeh" and means goby, so the term "yasha haze goby"Â@is actually redundant.  "Yasha" is a female demonic warrior deity, and I assume that the goby gets this name from its bright red stripes and spiky dorsal fin. <Thank you for this> Thanks in advance for your advice. Yours, Eric Anderson Zushi, Kanagawa Prefecture, Japan <Bob Fenner, Holualoa, Big Island, Hawaii>
Re: stocking question and FYI  4/25/07  Mr. Fenner (or which ever member of the Crew can respond), <Eric> Thank you very much for your guidance. Of the genera you mentioned, I am most interested in the Pomacentrids. After a quick check of the area LFS's, I found that the only member of the genus immediately available is Pomacentrus alleni. <Is a very good choice... as might be some of the small/er Chrysiptera... Talbot's, C. taupou...> My wife and I both think the fish is very attractive and would like to move forward, but I thought it best to check back with you once more to confirm that this is a suitable choice. The FAQs on WWM regarding this species seem to indicate that this is a less aggressive member of the genus, but also that it often does best when kept alone. <Yes> In your opinion, will it and my yasha goby get along? I also found references on the Web stating that the minimum tank requirement for Pomacentrus alleni is 30 gallons, although I also found examples of people keeping them successfully in Nano tanks. Should I be concerned about this? <I do give you very good odds here> I apologize for taking up so much of your time. Once again, many thanks for providing such a useful resource! Regards, Eric Anderson <Doh tashi mashiite my friend. Bob Fenner> P.S. If this message does get to Mr. Fenner, I hope you had a safe trip back to the mainland! Also, do you ever come to Japan for speaking engagements? My wife and I would love to attend. <Mmm, haven't been to Japan for more than transiting for years... and never to make presentations other than on Nishikigoi, pond issues... Doomo. Bob Fenner>

10 Gallon Marine Nano, Much Reading Needed  -- 04/16/07 Hello Mr. Fenner, <Sorry to disappoint...this is Adam J filling in for Bob F.> I have had fish for a while with success and I want to start a 10 gallon fish only tank. <Does not leave you with very many options, livestock wise in a marine tank.> I was thinking of starting with just a regular 10 gallon setup, with a Skilter 400, and a powerhead for filtration. <Mmm...Skilters are convenient but unfortunately not very effective in most circumstances, I would opt. for either a hang on refugium or protein skimmer...maybe both if you can fit them.> I'm thinking of either having 1) one Dwarf Zebra Lionfish, <Far too large for this aquarium.> or 2) One Pygmy Angelfish. <Also too large...> I was just going to use lava rock or Texas Holey rock for hiding/sleeping places.  Thanks for your time/suggestions. <See this article regarding Nano marine aquaria: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nanoreefsysart.htm . Read this and more....do as much research as possible, Nano tanks are not easy not for the faint of heart, they are a roller coaster as far as maintenance and stability go.> <<Well-stated. RMF>> Thanks
<Adam J.>

BTA in Nano Tank?   4/11/07 Hello crew <Hi.> Tyler Kohring  today <Adam Jackson on this end.> I have a 24 gal. reef tank which has had is ups and downs. <Nanos tend to do that...fickle creatures they are.> Now it is finally back to normal. <Good.> Anyway I  wanted clownfish for a while, but I didn't like the normal Perculas so I decided to get two black Australian Perculas. * very cool fish * <Especially the tank-reared versions.> I have not had them long but they are doing good, one is slightly larger. <Normal.> they seem to have paired up and I want to give them a anemone. I had a bubble tip anemone on mind. Do you think this is a good choice if not can you suggest one? <Well first I think it is important to mention that clowns in captivity do not need anemones in any sort of way to be happy. In fact most people who breed the animals on a large scale do not use anemones...in fact I don't know one commercial breeder who uses them. If you do get an anemone it is strictly for your enjoyment...the clowns don't care.  Anemones is general are not easy to maintain in captive aquaria, most don't live a year in captivity. Out of all of the choices, E. quadricolor, the BTA is probably the best choice, but that's not to say they are easy by any means.  If you do get one, your best bet is to go for a captive reared specimen.  I'll end by saying I do not personally recommend it. I do not like to see anemones placed in Nano aquaria, as you've mentioned they have their ups and downs and anemones appreciate very stable environments with low nutrient levels. Be sure to so all your research and read the articles/FAQ's placed on WWM.> Tank is four months old tank mates: bicolor blenny, Australian Perculas, fire fish, Rainford's goby, and six line wrasse. <Tank is a bit overstocked for my liking...being a Nano and all.> Thanks for the help, <Anytime.> Tyler Kohring     <Adam Jackson.>

Ich on corals? Cnid. allelopathy, esp. dangerous in smaller vol.s  3/28/07 Hi guys!  I'm hoping you can help me out of what I'm afraid might be my 1st experience with Ich (or marine velvet). I have a 24g Nano with MH lights, temp=80, Spg 1.025, ph=8.3-8.4 (depending on am or pm measure), calcium=450, nitrites, nitrates and am=0.  I do 3g H2O changes weekly.  We have 2 true Percs, a royal Gramma, 2 peppermint shrimp, assorted snails and hermit crabs.  Corals include Blasto, assorted mushrooms, Zoas, sun coral (my favorite), toadstool and Palys. <Yikes... trouble with all these disparate Cnidarians down the road... with growth... do settle on not adding any more species... and DO be diligent re maintenance> I noticed white spots on our Palys 4 days ago, and they have gotten worse.  I removed and gave to a friend to put in his hospital tank (I am getting one tomorrow!). <Good moves!>   Now I noticed that the Gramma is looking beat up. and scratching itself on the live rock. He's not breathing heavy, though. I think I see 2 pinhead white spots on the fin of 1 of the Percs. I plan to take all 3 fish and put in hospital tank as soon as I have it set up, but I'm wondering if the corals are at risk of this parasite, since it seemed to start on the Palys. <Mmm, not likely a parasite... of any of them... But very likely a matter of the fishes being exposed to types of chemical warfare twixt the stinging-celled life... "Caught in the cross-fire" so to speak"> I have had them for 1 mo already.  I just don't want to treat the fish, and wind up with all the corals getting this white stuff too!  Please advise!  Thank you!!   -Debbie <Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompfaqs.htm And the linked files above... Perhaps my write-up on Tom Walsh's small systems from years back... The "Garden Mix" of Zoanthids, Scleractinians et al. you list is possible, though not really practical in small volumes... these sessile animals species have varying, but highly effective strategies for "saving space", hogging light, gathering food exclusively to themselves... These potent stinging, poisoning, over-growing mechanisms easily play havoc in small captive systems... As you are experiencing. There are a few strategies for limiting the morbidity and mortality here... Read on. Bob Fenner>
Re: Ich on corals? Bambi vs. Godzilla short parody/explanation   3/29/07 As always, thank you for the prompt reply!  You guys are wonderful!! Just so I understand correctly what "next steps" to take, if the likely culprit is chemical warfare rather than a parasite, would the best course of action be to relocate some of the corals into a separate tank, rather than placing the 3 fish in a hospital tank and treating with copper, etc.? <... please read where you were referred to> I do think the hospital tank approach may be premature, <Agreed> as none of the fish appear to have breathing difficulty or white spots -- only the Gramma is scratching on the rocks very frequently, and seems unhappy.  If a larger and separate tank is what you suggest for separating the corals, which of the following corals would get along best together? (red & green mushrooms, green and blue hairy mushrooms, button polyp frag, Zoas, xenia, toadstool leather, sun coral). Please note that I have looked for a Compatability chart for specific corals, <Good point... As far as I'm aware there is none that is comprehensive... too much of "this goes with that, but not with this other" factual matter to graphically present> and I just seem to get general information about keeping 6-10" spacing, etc. <Is a good idea... as is starting with small specimens, colonies, the less noxious/stinging first... Additionally, frequent, partial water changes, use of chemical filtrants... diligence in cleaning/operation of your skimmer...> The reason I am so confused is that many reef tanks I've seen appear to have many different corals living together in close proximity. <All a matter of balance, time going by, and all potential trouble/time bombs... as in the wild, what appears to many folks, or as so pastorally "painted" as calm, serene cohabitation is in actuality an extremely aggressive world of chemical and physical warfare, kept in check (but not static by any measure) by dilution of water currents, predation, meteorological events...> I love the look of a reef "garden" with lots of colors, but I'm not sure how to avoid the chemical warfare issue. :-(  I greatly appreciate any advise you may have!   Thanks, Debbie <Much, MUCH that should be written on this overall topic... Perhaps a good deal by you... And much to tie-in with promoting biotopic presentations, careful organism selection, placement.... Bob Fenner>

29 gallon saltwater... stocking  3/28/07 Hello! <Katharine> I've had my 29 gallon tank set up for saltwater for about a month now.  I've got 4 lbs. of live rock growing some coralline algae in there.  The filtration consists of a 30 gallon hang off the back bio wheel filter, with a sponge, some "bio balls" and a "Purigen" bag.  I've just added two Green Chromis, and I want to add an Ocellaris Clown pair soon. <Mmm... these should get along... but the Chromis are more social... like to live in larger settings, in greater numbers> I want to set up a refugium, but I'm having problems fitting anything large enough to work under my aquarium.  I know there are hang off the back refugiums, but I'd rather have it under the tank.  My question is, what else can I put in this small of a tank safely?  Thank you! Katharine <Heeeeee! The list is indeed long... likely some of the smaller gobies, blennies would be good bets... Please see WWM re. Particularly: http://wetwebmedia.com/smmarsysstkgfaqs.htm and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Stocking a 14G Nano 3/27/07 I've been helping my g/f with her tank for about 2 years now.  I just got my own and it has cycled...now the fun part. <Let the fun begin.>    I have been thinking about my stock list and I would like to add to the 14 gallon eventually not all at once) <Doesn't give you much to work with, 1 hardy fish tops.>      1 - Randall's Goby <Ok>   1 - Candy/Randall's Pistol Shrimp   1 - Longnose Filefish (Oxymonacanthus longirostris) - I am aware of his eating habits and have a few ?s later on <Not appropriate for aquariums in general, especially a small one.>      3-5 - Sexy Shrimp   1-2 - PomPom Crabs <May compete with the Harlequin if hungry enough.>   1-2 - Harlequin Shrimp  <Lots of work to deliver the appropriate food.> Now the slew of questions. Biggest concern - excluding all special diets, will the tank be overcrowded if I have enough LR caverns (with a starfish added for the harlequin)?  What numbers would you shoot for per species? <Less is more, you are probably working with maybe 8-10 gallons when LR and sand are included.  The Goby and shrimp are enough in my opinion.>      How much of a cleanup crew would I need with all of those shrimp + crabs?  I was thinking a few snails to keep the glass tidy but suggestions are welcome. <1-2 snails, maybe 1-2 smaller hermits.> My last question concerns the filefish.  My LFS owner had one in his personal tank and he said it ate zoos as well as SPS.  Is it common for them to eat Zoanthids? <In the wild they eat Acros almost exclusively.> Which SPS do they favor (Monti, Acro, Acan?) and how quickly will they decimate the colony? <Most don't live long enough for this to be a problem, but fairly quick.>  My tank is the Oceanic 14g so the lighting might be alright for the Monti for the month or so that the filefish will peck at it, but I wouldn't want any Acros to die under sub par lighting :( <Really not appropriate for captivity, but the Acros would die to the fish eventually anyways.  Skip this guy.>      Thanks as always, <Welcome>   Dan Janes <Chris>

Contaminated equipment... SW...    3/19/07 Hi there, <Hello, Brandon here.>    I'm been running a 6G Nano for about a year now, recently (2 months ago) I started using an old heater/pump in a plastic bucket to heat and aerate RO water for a 2L bi-weekly water change.   <This is a good idea.> I lost a snail last month and today it seems another has bitten the dust.   <I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but they most likely starved to death.  Most people recommend 1 snail per 10 gallons.  Keeping two in this tank likely extinguished their food supply, or took it down to negligible levels.  Think about it like this, if I gave you one chicken nugget a day, you are still eating right?  But eventually you will starve to death.  Same thing with the snails.  While it is true that they need algae to live, they need a specific amount per day, if they cannot get this they will slowly starve.> The parameters are: Nitrate 15ppm, Amm 0, Nitrite 0, Ph 8.1, Sal 1.025, Temp 26c, Alk 2.7 and have been stable. <The Nitrate is a little high.  Would be better if it was under 10 ppm.  I will assume that your Alk is 2.7 mg/L since you did not say.  This translates out to 7.8 dKH.  This is low.  Ideally you want to shoot for 10-12 dKH, or about 4mg/L.  This will give you a more stable pH.> If the old heater/pump was used in a freshwater tank with a copper based treatment would the copper possibly be getting in the water it is aerating/heating?   <Anything is possible, but if there were copper in the water, the crustaceans that you mention below would likely be doing extremely poorly, or dead.  All crustaceans are extremely sensitive to copper.> The Zoanthids in the tank are also retracted, hermits and shrimps seem fine. <This is most likely due to the NO3 levels.  Try cleaning out your filters once a week, and see if this solves the NO3 problem.> All the best <Good luck to you.  Brandon.> Luke

Nano stocking question ) 3/14/07 Hey all, <Hi there Darby!  Mich here.>      Seems every week or two, I have another question, invariably due to some misadventure....  This time, it goes like this:       I have a NanoCube 24.  Last week, its' residents were a Yellow Tail Damsel, some small hermit crabs, a few snails, 4 different kinds of Button polyps, and two different sizes and colors of Star polyps.  I have also been running a 7 gal. refugium to culture copepods for a friends Mandarin. <What a nice friend!>     Over the weekend, the afore mentioned friend awoke to find his tank cracked and leaking, possibly due to his dogs knocking a chair into it while playing in the night.   <Yikes!> He promptly bagged up his fish (the Psychedelic and a Royal Gramma), and awoke me, handed me the fish, and left.  His parting words were "I won't be mad if they don't survive, they haven't been eating anything lately anyways..." <Uh oh!>     Well, I can assure you that they are eating fine.  Voracious, in fact.   <Oh!  Very good!> I gave them an adjustment time of 4 hours after their slow acclimation to the tank, then fed them live Brine Shrimp.   <Nutritional value is poor.> I swear, the Royal Gramma was trying to take the syringe out of my hand!   <Hee!> The Psychedelic also ate with relish, but only after I had managed to squirt a few shrimpies over his head where he could see them.  Ok, so all is well, and it looks like I may be keeping these guys indefinitely. <OK.>     Now, before this occurred, I had ordered a pair of Banggai Cardinals for my LFS.  They arrive tomorrow.  The question is:  Should I purchase them and bring them home, or will my tank be over-stocked? <I think overstocked.  Too crowed psychologically.>     There are plenty of places for the Cardinals to hide, should they wish to (including 2 good caves), and so far the Royal Gramma and the Damsel are getting along like good buddies and all is peaceful.  I really hope to keep it that way too! <Then don't add the Cardinals.> Thanks a bunch! <Welcome!  -Mich> Darby
Re: Nano stocking question  3/16/07 Thank you for the reply Mich.   <You're very welcome my friend!> I'll give the B. Cardinals a pass.   <Very wise on your part.> I'm sure some other people in the area will be tripping over themselves to get at them!   <Assuredly.> They truly are a striking fish, even if not what most consider "colorful". <Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.  -Mich> Darby

Can I have two cleaner shrimp?  3/14/07 Can I put two cleaner shrimp together in a 38 gallon tank with out them fighting each other?   <Yes> I currently have a false clownfish and a maroon about the same size never fight with lots of live rock.  Should I only put one in? <Two will be fine.  However, I do suggest starting out with one.  If you are happy with one, go ahead with the second.  I was unable to view the picture, but not necessary to answer your question.> <Brenda>

Damsel/tank (small) (skimmer) question  3/13/07 Good day to all the staff of this wonderful website! I've read this site and its archives for the past 3 weeks and its been very helpful, got a couple of questions though. 1. is it true that yellow-tailed damsels lose their "yellowtail" color when they mature? <Mmm, not really... actually intensifies under "ideal" conditions... good water quality, nutrition, social factors...> how long (is it months or years?) does a damsel of this kind mature?    <Likely just several months... You can look on fishbase.org... and read their Cartesian graphs re such...>   2. my second question is, I have a 20 gallon with 2 yellow tail damsels and 1 clown <... too crowded... not healthy, sustainable> with about 15lbs of live rock, everything is fine and I don't plan on adding anything more, do I still need a skimmer? thanks in advance! <I would have, use one, yes. See WWM re... Bob Fenner>

Nano Marine Aquaria; Newbie  - 3/12/07 Dear Mr. Fish Person, <We have Ms. Fish Person's here too, as for me I go by Adam.> I've had fishtank as long as I can remember, <Me too but I don't remember what I ate for dinner last night so.......> so now (at age 17) <I do remember being 17, that wasn't long ago.> I feel ready to take on a marine tank. <Cool...you have lots or research and reading to do.> I'm planning on using a ten-gallon and I know that takes a lot more work than a larger one, but I'm on a budget, and I've factored that in and feel I have enough time and motivation to care for it. <Sounds like you are on the right track.> I would like to have an ocellaris clownfish <Go for a tank raised individual if you can.> and maybe a starfish later. <What type of starfish? Nano-Aquaria probably does not suit 99% of species offered, most large systems don't.> I'm going to use a hang-on-back filter and a skimmer, as well as a heater to keep the fish happy. Do you have any advice for me before I attempt to tackle this? <Read this (and everything else you can): http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nanoreefsysart.htm .> For instance, what kinds of small starfish are good for beginners? <Honestly o those offered in the trade, there are not any I would recommend other than those occurring naturally of inoculations of live rock and live sand.> Any feedback would be great. <Do keep reading, learning will make the "heartache" much less likely.> Thanks, Lindsay <Welcome, Adam J.>

About  Zoanthus Colony Polyp Corals  3/10/07 Hi, my name is Dan Zabler and I have had a salt-water tank since October 2006.   The first step is admitting you have a problem...Oh wait, wrong place.  Hi Dan! Mich here.> The main tank is a 29-gallon high.  I recently add a 20-gallon long refugium to my system and I was looking at what types of fish to put in my refugium when I came across the Zoanthus Colony Polyp Corals.  I was wondering what types of fish are safe to put with these polyps.  I was doing some research and read that the polyps are poisonous and I don't want to put them in my tank and find my fish dead.   <Can be toxic, but most fish have a natural aversion to eating things that might harm them.> Right now I have a Scooter Dragonet (Synchiropus ocellatus), <A real challenge to feed, often starve in captivity.  Glad you have the refugium, do research their dietary needs.  More here and links in blue:  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mandarins.htm> a Firefish (Nemateleotris magnifica), and two skunk cleaners (Lysmata sp.).  I am going to get one or two more fish but I might change my decision on what fish to get depending on the effect of the polyps going into the tank.   <I would be more concerned about the size of your tank.  You need to choose any fish you add very carefully.  You tank is quite small  and psychological stress from over crowding is often a bigger issue than many appreciate.  There are several options.  A few you might  consider may include your basic clownfish, Chromis and select damsels.  Some other possibilities include:  an Orchid Dottyback (Pseudochromis fridmani), a Royal Gramma (Gramma loreto), or possibly a Jawfish (Opistognathus spp.).  Only consider the Jawfish if you have a deep sand bed in the display and your tank is completely covered, because they will find the smallest hole to escape from to go carpet surfing!  But please only one more fish, two at the max.>    If you could e-mail me back at this address that would be very much appreciated. <Will do!> Thanks, Dan Zabler <Welcome!  -Mich>

Starcki Damsel <and a Clown!> in a Nano  -- 03/09/07 <Hi there, Mich here.> I really want to get a Starcki damsel for my 10G, but would also like to get a Percula Clown. Do you think it would be worth the risk?   <No! Too much fish, not enough space!> Do you think if I put the clown in first and add the damsel a few weeks later it might work. <No, there is not really enough room in the tank for one of these fish, let alone two!> I'm prepared to watch for any aggression, and remove one of the fish if becomes a problem. It's only a 10 so taking it apart if I had to catch a fish isn't terrible. <Better to get a larger tank or set up another system.> I have done a lot of Googling, and it seems that the Starcki is one of the least aggressive damsels you're going to find, and they are gorgeous little fish. Some people even say theirs are rather timid. <But the tank is still too small.> I think it is worth the risk, and I'm pretty sure if the Damsel tried anything the clown could take care of himself. <You are setting up a system filled with a good deal of psychological stress.  I wouldn't recommend it.> Do you guys think I can try it, as long as I keep a close eye out for aggression, and if necessary remove one of the fish (hopefully I won't have to).? I realize the instinct is Damsel=Evil, but people do a lot of things in this hobby that are against the rules, and have success. <I just don't think this is a good idea.> I'm just debating if it's worth the risk. Worse comes to worse I have to take the damsel out, it can't hurt to try right? <My goal is to have you be a conscientious marine aquarist and that means doing what is right for those creatures dependant on you for their care.  You ultimately control their entire world and I just don't think it's fair to put these two fish is such an exceedingly small system. I'm sorry, I know this is not what you want to hear, but is what should be said.  -Mich> Thanks

P. mccoskeri For a Small Reef? (Oh Yes!) - 03/02/07 Hello, <<Howdy>> I would like to know if my 40 breeder tank would work for a male Paracheilinus mccoskeri Wrasse? <<Very neat little fish...yes it would>> My total water volume is 65 gallons.  I have a 25 gallon sump/refugium.  The male I would like is only 2in. I know, of course, it will eventually grow. <<Mmm...but not much more in my experience (to about 3~31/2 inches)>> I will upgrade my system in the future.  Just wanted your thoughts on this. <<P. mccoskeri is an excellent little wrasse for reef systems.  Very peaceable (conspecifics aside), generally very hardy, and quite attractive too!>> I have a nice stable reef right now.  66 pounds of LR/ not all in the main display, but a good amount for hiding, DSB, BM150 skimmer, LPS, Refugium, closed-loop with a Sequence snapper. <<Sounds very nice>> I haven't been able to find someone that asked this question about this particular Wrasse.  Please let me know. <<I think I just did [grin]>> I currently have no other fish.  I'm looking to get some and this one looked great and sounded like it has great personality, plus it's Gorgeous. <<Indeed>> Thank you. Gina <<A pleasure to share.  EricR>>

Wrasse Addition to Semi-Nano Aquaria   3/1/07 Hi <Hello.> My name is Joe and I currently have a 3 months old saltwater aquarium that is 36 gallons, has a bunch of snails and hermits, <How much is a bunch?> 40 lbs of live rock, a Citrinus Clown Goby, and a flame Angelfish. <Tank is on the small side for a Centropyge.> I was wondering if you had a suggestion for a type of wrasses to add to my aquarium. I am looking for  something that will fit stocking wise, and aggression wise between the goby and  angel. I know the angel may give him a hard time though, but was thinking wrasse  are aggressive and tough enough to handle. Particularly one of the smaller sized ones that will fit in my tank, and will be a different coloration from the goby and angel if possible, but that is not primary. I like the four and six line   wrasse fish, but never see the four or twelve line wrasse I think they call it  around in stores. <The only wrasses I would find suitable would be a smaller member of the Pseudocheilinus genus (which the Sixline is) or possibly a member of the Wetmorella genus (possum wrasse).> Also in the future I will be adding a 10g refugium to the side  of the tank, and corals when my lighting upgrades. <Sounds good.> If you have suggestions or  any comments it would be appreciated. <Just to stay diligent and keep reading, Adam J.>

Overstocking, Hermit Crab eating snails -- 2/26/07 <Hi Tracy, Brenda Here tonight.> Thank you for your great articles. <Your welcome.> We have a 33 gallon tank that is about 1yr running now. We started with live sand and began adding live rock and snails 1 month later.  After 6 months we were up to 70 lbs live rock, 3 turbo snails 15 blue leg hermits <You have too many crabs.  I recommend one per 10 gallon or less.> 6 Margarite snails, 1 sally light foot 1 cleaner shrimp, lots of little feather dusters on live rock, I have seen some bristle worms too, 1 blenny, 2 tiny maroon clowns and a yellow tang, 1 very small anemone its white and about 1/4 of an inch big. <1/4' anemone?  Pest anemone?  Your tank is much too small for a tang.> There is coralline growing and we have star polyps. All was well for a few months then the tang died. We checked the water (prior to this we change 10% every 2 wks) and did a 50% change the ph was 8.2 and nitrate 10 Two days later we did another water change. The salinity is kept at 1.023. The place where we get our supplies checks the other levels for us and said they were good. <Nitrates at 10 is not good, need to be zero.  I suggest purchasing your own test kits and learning to test all of your water parameters.  What will you do at midnight when you need to know your water parameters?> After the tang died the tank became over run with red slime algae and green hair algae. <Have you checked for phosphates?> We were able to combat the red algae but the green was unreal. We had to remove the fish to a holding tank and clean the algae of the live rock you couldn't see any live rock the algae was so bad. We scrubbed off the algae under RO water. Everything seemed nice and clean we tested the water, the store said all looked good the nitrate still at 10 though. <The LFS is not doing you any favors by telling you that your water is good when nitrates are above zero.> We put the fish back in and purchased a zebra turbo snail and 5 Nassarius snails and a conch snail and a peppermint cleaner shrimp. That was about 1 month ago 1 week ago we got a pink tipped anemone for the clowns who have out grown the little tiny one (sorry don't know what kind it is) the pink tipped hasn't quite settled yet still on the move some how I think it is running away from the clown that wont leave it for a second it actually lies down on its side wrapped in the tentacles of the anemone. <Buying any tank mate and not knowing the species is a bad idea.  Your salinity is too low for an anemone.  It should be 1.026.  You have two anemones, and I have no idea what kind.  You won't be able to successfully keep two species of anemones in a 33 gallon tank.  A 33 gallon tank is border line for even one anemone, unless you are experienced with keeping anemones.  Your tank is overstocked, and I believe you will continue to have problems.  The anemone has not settled because it is unhappy with its environment.> Now 3 snails are dead, one of the hermit crabs is now very huge could he be eating them? <You bet it can!> He moved into a very large shell and looks to be about 2 1/2 inch by 1 inch big.  Do you think the anemone has something to do with it? <Nope!> Thank you Tracy <You're Welcome.  Please research all of your livestock and learn their requirements and compatibility with others before you buy.  Good luck with your tank.  Brenda>

Sebae... anemone, Carpet and Euphyllia, in a 36 gal., oh my!   2/26/07 Hello WetWebMedia crew! <Julie> I recommend your site to all of our fellow reefers, and I use it often myself. Thank you for this vital and informative service. Now to my question. I have a 36 gallon bowfront with 96 watt power compacts. I have a carpet anemone <A dangerously small volume for this/these species> that hosts a 4 inch cinnamon clown.( I know he is a little large, but I'm a sucker for fish no one wants. He was brought into the fish store as an exchange, and looked so pitiful I adopted him) The are inseparable. Now, I purchased a considerably smaller cinnamon approximately 1.5 inches. He happily adapted to his surroundings, but, being the intelligent little creature he is, he steered clear of the carpet for what I assume are two reasons: the larger cinnamon won't let him anywhere near his carpet, and he didn't want to become lunch for that same carpet. <All take time to "become familiar"... as you're likely aware> So, he persistently rubbed all three heads off of my frogspawn. (sigh). <Yikes... this Euphylliid is in this small volume with a Carpet?> I purchased a Sebae anemone for him and both are happily living in the opposite corner of the tank after a period of traveling around finding just the right spot. <A time bomb...> Now, my question is, after reading about coloration of the Sebae, mine is the "stark white" color with purple tips. <Bleached...> It has been this way since purchase approximately 2 months ago. The carpet was a very white color also when I purchased it a year ago, but since turned a dingy brownish color. (after reading up on anemones, I assume this is a good thing) <Mmm, yes... is improving.... reincorporating zooxanthellae...> Now, the Sebae settled down at the bottom of the tank and has remained there for the last couple of weeks. It looks full and healthy, but the color concerns me. Will it take on the dingy brown color like my carpet? <Perhaps in time... but much more likely you will have an extreme-enough allelopathogenic event here... with the clowns being killed, and all else... with one of the anemones being last "to go"> Both anemones eat small chopped up "prime reef" and "squid" about once a week or longer. I have a hob refugium and a CPR backpack with 1/3 of the space being taken up with live rock. I also have quite a bit of macro algae growing in the tank (rooted in the sand) <Good... this gear and the algae have forestalled the event mentioned above> various snails and hermits, a cleaner shrimp, a decorator crab and small black scissor tailed damsel. (oh I almost forgot a brittle star that I only see with the flashlight when lights are out). This tank has never had anything expire in it save for the occasional war over a shell between a hermit and snail. About six months ago I had an outbreak of brown algae, which the snails cleaned up promptly and still keep everything nice and clean. So do you think my Sebae being so white will "color up" given more time? <I think all will die if the anemones are not separated> I was quite surprise to read where the white color is not a good thing, since every single Sebae I have seen at the local fish stores are the stark white color with the purple tips that look exactly like mine. Thank you for all that you do for our hobby (i.e.-read here addiction) Julie B <Please read here (Heeee!): http://www.wetwebmedia.com/anemcompfaqs.htm and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Fish additions to a 29 gallon Bio Cube   2/25/07 Hello WWM crew, <Henry>             Thank you in advance for taking the time to look over my question and hopefully give me the correct direction I need. My tank has been up and running for 9 weeks now. Bio-balls have been removed and a Sapphire Aquatics skimmer added in their place. I have added some Loc-Line to the output port for the stock filter area to break the outflow into two separate directions. I have added a power head in the tank and my flow is about 600 gph total. <All good changes> Everything else in the tank is stock as delivered from Oceanic. I may upgrade lighting down the road. All parameters have been going through cycling about as I expected from reading yours and other materials. The cycle is complete (should I say first major cycle) and the all parameters are within the accepted ranges for a reef tank. The tank was started with 11 lbs. of Tufa base rock, 20 lbs. of LFS cured LR. 20 lbs. of CaribSea Live aragonite sand (or as live as it can be sitting in a bag on a shelf for however long). <Mmmm, yes> I have added some GSP in wk. #7, some Zoanthids in wk. #8 and some small mushrooms and Ricordea in wk. #9. I am looking forward to the addition of fish, probably starting somewhere in wk. #16. The fish I would like to add are Centropyge loriculus, Cryptocentrus cinctus, Pseudocheilinus hexataenia, and one Amphiprion Percula. <Mmm, how many gallons is this system? Too small for a Flame Angel> If I were to give up on adding anything down the line it would be the clown. I plan to add these fish one at a time at about two week intervals. Naturally I will be keeping an eagle eye on the parameters as they change with the bio-load to ensure that the 10-15% weekly water changes and the biological filtration are able to keep the water in the condition it needs to be in. My question for you is the order of addition. I am thinking the goby then wrasse then angel then clown. Your thoughts? <Is fine> I appreciate the fact that you all are working to keep the site up and running and I have been using it, mostly in the search function, and this is my first time writing since I could not find what I was looking for doing searches. I remain grateful and your fan. Henry <Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Peppermint and Cleaner Shrimp... small sys. incomp.   2/24/07 Good Morning Crew, I have two questions regarding the two types of shrimp in my 29 Gallon marine tank. First is concerning a Peppermint Shrimp. Just yesterday I noticed my Peppermint Shrimp resting still, upside down under a live rock. This in itself is not unusual however it was not his normal spot and he did not come out during feeding time. <Mmm, may be getting near a molt... perhaps reproducing...> This morning I found him dead on the bottom. The only changes recently was about a week ago I added a Cleaner shrimp to help deal with a mid case of ich. <Mmm, won't... and these two may not have been compatible...> Are there diseases or anything else that may have caused his demise - all else appears to be normal in the tank. My other question in concerning the Cleaner Shrimp - I have noticed black blotches on either side of his main body. He appears healthy and very active at feeding time. Should these black blotches of concern to me? (he has molted once in the tank) <Mmm, no... please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clrshrpdisfaqs.htm Likely similar... algal growths> Other info 29 Gallon Tank 1 Penguin 300 BioWheel Hang on Filter 1 Prism Protein Skimmer 2 Internal Powerheads Live Rock 4 Large Hair Mushrooms 3 Small Maroon Mushrooms <Not nearly enough room for these here> 3 Chromis 1 Ocellaris Clown <Territorial trouble... the two Pomacentrids above will lose to the winning Premnas> 1 Sailfin Blenny (very skinny - trying to feed) 1 Scopus Tang <Ditto> 6 hermit crabs 9 assorted snails Lots of Amphipods A number of assorted hitchhikers   Water levels are good however I have had issues with elevated Nitrates and Nitrites in recent past Thanks, Lance <Do be planning on a much larger system... soon, Lance. BobF>

Problem with Crabs and Overstocking -- 2/20/07 Help! <Hi Janet, Brenda here tonight> I have been reading through your FAQ's and reading elsewhere and I am not finding the answers to my question.  Since November 2006 I have had a 24 gallon Aqua Pod.  All my parameters are within the required limits. I do a weekly 4 gallon water change to keep my nitrates down. I have 4 fish (yellow-tail damsel, 1 clarkii clownfish, and 2 Percula clownfish), there are snails and crabs, mushrooms, an anemone (the clarkii loves it there), a sea urchin, a blue star fish, frogspawn coral, feather duster, star polyp, Caulastrea, Galaxea coral, yellow pagoda, Zoanthid, and 2 cleaner shrimps. <Oh my!  You're way over stocked.  You will also see aggression between the Percula and clarkii clownfish as they mature.  You shouldn't mix corals and anemones, especially a Nano tank.  The Galaxea has sweeper tentacles that can reach up to 12 inches, the frogspawn also has long tentacles and the Caulastrea up to 2 inch tentacles.  These tentacles will sting all your corals and your invertebrates.> I had (and these have not survived) a electric flame scallop, black sun coral, pearl bubble coral, brain coral, and Fungia. <I'm not surprised.> I feed them 1X a day ~ I alternate every other day with the following Mysis shrimp, Cyclop eeze (originally for the black sun coral), and prime reef flake food.   About a month ago, I took out 10 crabs (I had 20) because they seem to be eating other things in the tank besides the garbage. <It is recommended to have 1 crab or less for every 10 gallons.  I don't recommend crabs with anemones.> Now they seem to be eating snails <This is common they can also eat small fish, corals, and nip at anemones.> and they look they are eating each other, too.   <Have not heard of this, could be the sweeper tentacles.> It, also, looks they have multiplied.  What do I do? <Decide what sort of tank you want to keep, anemone or coral.  If you choose coral, select those that are not as aggressive.  Please research compatibility and care before your purchase.> Janet <Brenda>

Pico Reef Tank - 07/29/06 Hi WWM crew: <<Howdy Jeff!>> After a couple of years of keeping a medium-sized (46 gallon) reef tank and learning all the million and one things NOT to do, I've decided--even though I know I have to learn another billion or so things NOT to do--to take the plunge into a Pico reef tank. (Yes, I'm aware that most Nanos and picos fail in the long-run, so I'm taking this risk with no illusions.) <<Mmm, must admit to disliking pico/nano systems...death traps for the most part, in my humble opinion>> I've been continually learning by first-hand experience, by countless hours of reading your FAQ's, articles and books, and by talking with other "reef geeks". <<Let's hope it will be enough...>> Now here's my set-up plan: TANK, EQUIPMENT, & SUPPLIES - 3 gallon mini Deco with 18 watts of PC light, 50/50 (dimensions 12.5"L x 9.5"W x 7.5"H), Deco power filter (Hang-on) with 80 gph of flow (so about 27X turnover per hour) - note: filter cartridge to be replaced by a bag of Seachem's Purigen. <<A good idea>> Tetra 50 Watt heater (4.5" long, fully submersible, preset at 78F) <<Hmm...this sounds too large...would quickly do damage if it were to "stick on">> Algae magnet cleaner, Digital thermometer, Refractometer, AP saltwater test kit, Salifert Alk test kit, Seachem Reef Salt, Seachem Reef Buffer. <<Dosing additives is dangerous/should be unnecessary on this small volume of water.  Frequent partial water changes will be quick/easy and will provide/replenish all the elements this tank will need...and do so safely>> MAINTENANCE REGIMEN - DAILY: 2 CUPS of water change (approximately 4% of tank volume daily), Top-off (I have yet to measure exactly how much water is lost to evaporation in 24 hours; if necessary I may have to top-off twice a day--once in the morning and once in the evening) <<Indeed...won't take much evaporation to cause large swings in water chemistry>> Scrape algae off acrylic wall, monitor temperature, pH, and specific gravity. -WEEKLY: Siphon of substrate & LR, cleaning of filter & replacement of Purigen as necessary, salt water mix prep in 5 gal bucket w/heater & powerhead, refill top-off water bucket, test for Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, & Alkalinity. SUBSTRATE: .5" of white sand, 2-3 lbs of live rock. LIVE STOCK: This is where I need advice.  I know that stocking this tank will be the most critical. <<Indeed...won't be keeping much in this tiny volume of water>> I gave it a lot of thought and decided it will house only the following: A single colony of some species of xenia (I've actually kept the elongata species in my larger tank, and it has grown rapidly) - 2 red-leg hermit crabs - 1 Astrea snail I choose xenia because they're relatively hardy, almost fully autotrophic, <<Mmm, do feed through absorption...have been proposed as viable organisms for "animal" filters (a vessel filled with organisms utilized for the water filtering capacity>> and because I love their pulsing behavior.  I'm thinking the waste from the live rock, crabs and snail will give it enough sustenance without me having to feed it by polluting the water. <<Possibly, yes>> I'm afraid of putting any food in the tank at all since overfeeding would be too easy. <<Agreed>> I will also not dose any supplements & additives--too dangerous in this system. <<Ah...good!>> Besides, the Seachem Reef Salt (which I'm using for my larger tank) contains good levels of trace elements. <<Agreed again>> My Question is: which species of xenia would you recommend (if at all)? <<X. elongata or X. umbellata would be fine choices I think.  Though if you've kept Xenia before you should be aware that sometimes it declines for "no apparent reason">> And would the wastes produced from the LR, crabs & snail be sufficient supplemental nutrition? <<Maybe...though the crab and snail may need supplemental feeding at some point...maybe best provided by exchanging the old rock with new>> If not, what "feeding" regimen would you recommend? <<At this point, none.  If you choose not to swap out old rock for new (about every 4-6 months...maybe more often), a shrimp pellet or two (literally), tossed in every 3-4 days may suffice>> Best Regards, <<Cheers, EricR>>

Small Marine Aquariums Book 1: Invertebrates, Algae New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner	Small Marine Aquariums Book 2: Fishes New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner	Small Marine Aquariums Book 3: Systems New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner