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Is this temperature ok? (Bob F., if available). & Nano stkg... 2/16/07 Hi, Great site as usual! I am setting up an Oceanic Bio Cube 14, as a Nano reef. I had a company by the name of nano-tuners.com <Neat name> do a mod to my hood that increased the lighting from 48 watts to 72 watts of PC lighting. I am running 1- 10k bulb, one actinic, and one 50/50) As expected with a light increase, there was a heat increase. I have freshwater in there now, and am testing all of my equipment. I am getting temps in the 80- 83 degree range consistently with out the use of a heater. <Mmm, temp. and range will likely be okay... I would use/place a/the heater... just set at the lower temp.> I will employ the use of a 50 watt heater when I get it set up, but will these temperatures be ok for the following? 15 Lbs of Live Rock <From tropical clime, yes> 3 Lbs of rubble as a bio filter 20 Lbs of Live Sand <Ditto> 212 model zoo-med power sweep power head + stock pump, yielding a turn over of 20x 2 True Percula clowns (a pair if I can manage it) <Start with just two small tank-bred ones... they'll become a pair in time> 1 Fire fish <Mmm... really needs two square feet of space per individual, and most species available are best kept in pairs... Highly stressed otherwise> Various softies (xenia, mushrooms, Ricordea, etc) <A Pacific Ricordea species would be better than a Floridian> Some hard corals Other various frags An anemone (Bubble tip??) <Mmmm... this tank is really too small> A clam (can you recommend a specific species?) <Ditto> 2 cleaner shrimp (Am I better off with a mated pair of golden coral banded shrimp, or two skunks?) <Better with Peppermints... again... this volume is too small> 2-4 hermits (2 blue, 2 scarlet) 5-10 snails (Suggestions?) <I'd avoid here> Top off every other day with pure R/O water 10% w/c once a week <Make that twenty> I will be exclusively using Nutri sea water for this setup. Filter floss cleaned at every top off under tap, and squeezed dry. Chemical filtration: Pura pad. Does this set up look good to you? Any other recommendations are gladly welcomed. Thanks, Anthony <Appears you've been doing your "homework"... again, go slow... small colonies of those Cnidarians... Bob Fenner> New Tank 2/12/07 , SW, anem. sel./sys., subst., First and foremost let me start off by saying your online resource is enjoyable to read and I appreciate the time you all put into answering questions. <Thanks> Now I have a 29 gal tank with an Emperor 400 with Bio-Wheels, a 3 inch crushed coral substrate, a maxi-jet 900 and 17 pounds of various types of live rock. <No skimmer?> My tank has only been running for about one week. My questions is with the current set up that I have is it possible to have an anemone and two clown fish set-up (once the tank is cycled of course)? <Too small/unstable for an anemone, fine for a clownfish pair.> I plan on adding more live rock however I just need some direction. Should I ditch the crushed coral for some type of sand? <Could, would help with water quality.> I have read various responses on your website as well as in numerous books and I just wanted to ask a direct question about my specific set up. Thank you for any and all help that you can provide. <Welcome> <Chris> -Andre F. Ousley What's the secret? Coral Compatibility 2/5/07 Hi there, <Hello Sameer> Greetings from India, <And from Michigan...brrr> Hope you are having a great day! This is Sameer from India. I wanted to know, that when we see the pictures of reef setups on website, we see small tanks which are fully loaded with corals of different types. These tanks are so filled up that we often don't see the live rocks too! The websites like http://www.garf.org/ etc, have such tanks which are small but amazingly beautiful. What is the secret behind such kind of stocking? <No secrets, just reading/learning.> Is there no chemical warfare? How do they control the war? <There will always be some warfare going on, but tanks such as these are best set-up with coral species from the same family to minimize the war.> How do they sustain such bio load in such small quarters? <The corals do not create near the bio load that fish do.> Also how do they manage the corals from touching each other when the tanks are so filled up? <Careful placement.> Because when we read on the FAQ's on WetWebMedia, we see that chemical warfare and compatibility is a major issue between corals and other inverts! <Yes, corals and anemones should not be kept in the same tank.> I have read that many times even the same species have warfare! <Yes, but not quite as dangerous as mixing species in such small quarters.> I myself have a Nano tank and hope to have different Zoanthids and Mushrooms only! what are the basic and common requirements for both? <Read here and linked files above. Plenty of info here to pass a few nights. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/zoanthid.htm> Also which would you suggest as beginner corals? <Geez, all depends on tank size, lighting, etc.> Often when I get Zoanthid frags, they don't open for weeks and the mistake I would do is keep moving them in the tank to adjust to the lighting, later they would just melt away! <The link above should give plenty of info. Do read the FAQ's on such, learn from the experiences of others.> But in the same case Sea Fans and Favites Coral would settle down and open the same day on introduction to the tank! <Mmm, conditions to their liking. Each specie of corals have their own requirements, but the one thing they share in common is photosynthesis.> So, maybe I should just leave them alone and watch them settle down! <And read/learn.> What is the *maximum* time (days) needed for them to settle down and open up? <Another loaded question. All depends on your system.> So, I can wait for that period before discarding the animals! <Do read/learn my friend.> Thanks in advance! <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)> cheers, Sameer Small Marine System Stocking 2/1/07 Hello seemingly tireless crew member, <Seemingly is the key word...hehe....Hi Chris.> I have a 9 month old 35 gallon reef with a 4.5 gallon HOB refugium and 45 pounds of live rock (equipment and environment details are included below; photo attached). I am working on my stocking plan would like your critique and advice. I have no fish or coral in the tank at the moment. <Okay.> I would like 4 coral colonies: 2 Zoanthid, 1 Xenia and a Ricordea. They will go into a Q-tank for 4 weeks. <Sounds acceptable.> Can I put two colonies at a time in quarantine or should I just go one at a time? <If obtained at the same time, form the same system...can go together...otherwise separate...separate if you want to be on the safe side.> Once all 4 colonies are in the main tank, I would like 3 fish. I would like to go with 3 of the following fish. Assuming I can go with 3, can you suggest a mix that will maximize survivability? Bi-color Blenny (Ecsenius Bicolor) Clown Goby (Gobiodon sp.) Red Headed Neon Goby (Elacatinus puncticulatus) Red Head Goby (Elacatinus puncticulatus) Firefish (Nemateleotris magnifica) Royal Gramma (Gramma loreto) <Assuming there will be plenty of rock-work, I would think you could go with any combination of those three...the smaller gobies would be my choice personally.> Each fish will be separately quarantined for 4 weeks. Should they go in any particular order? <The Gramma....should you choose this one....would go last.> Other tank life: 2 Peppermint shrimp (dealing with Aiptasia bloom following a period inconsistent water changes). They will be removed and returned prior to first coral additions. 20 IPSF micro-hermits (no species specification) Strombus and Nerite snails. Numerous pods in both the main display and refugium Chaetomorpha in the refugium (harvested for nutrient transport) Husbandry Temp: 79 -- 80.5 Ammonia, Nitrate: 0 PH: 8.4-8.6 SG: 1.024 Alk: 179 Calcium: 350 (has trended down from 500 when new) Twice monthly 8 gallon water change 35 gallon tank (36" x 18 x 13) 3" sand bed <Mmm...3" is sorta what I like to call no mans land....sand beds should be 2" or less or at least 5-6" if you are looking for the DSB affect (which would not look great in a tank of this size I concede), anything else in between is usually just a nutrient trap.> 40+ pounds of live rock Orbit 4x96 PC lighting AquaC Remora HOB skimmer 4 power heads running on a variable timer cycle 4.7 gallon CPR AquaFuge with 4+ inch mud and sand bed, 3 pounds of live rock rubble and Chaeto running on a reverse lighting scheme. Automatic top off unit to keep salinity constant when I travel for work. <Sounds like the making of an efficient yet simple system Chris.> Thank you for all your fine work, <Thank you for the compliment.> Chris <AdamJ.> Stocking Question, Sebae Anemone, Lighting -- 1/31/07 Hi crew, <Hello, Brenda here> Wonderful answers you guys give. I have a 20g (24"Lx15"H) with 130W PC Odyssea lighting, 10g DIY sump/refuge. My question is; I have two 1" Ocellaris clowns, a 3" lawnmower blenny, a 2" watchman goby, a pistol shrimp and a cleaner shrimp along with a Sebae anemone (currently slowly regaining its brownish/tanish color). Would the tank be overstocked? <Yes, even more so without a skimmer.> Secondly, should I replace one of the bulbs with a 10K daylight bulb? <In my opinion 130W PC lighting and a 20 gallon with sump is not enough for this anemone. Changing the bulb to 10K will not be sufficient.> Thank you so very much crew. <Your welcome. Brenda> Set-up, stocking questions--a mixed bag 1/27/07 Hey hey. <What do you say?> I have a 60 gallon, rectangular, soon-to-be reef tank that's been up and running for 9 months. <Welcome to the reef my friend.> I've asked you all a few questions before (to much benefit) and now I think I'll try to get all the rest of them out of the way at once. <Alrighty> So...After many hours of tinkering, upgrading, and hundreds of hours of research (mostly on WWM), I'm almost satisfied with my set-up. <Very good! Key word there being almost... if you make it to satisfaction, I hope your time there is longer than the 10 minutes that most reef aquarists experience.> My tank has a built-in overflow with bio-balls and a sponge filter inside, with a 1-inch bulkhead return to my 20-gallon sump. My return pump is a Rio 2500, which I am replacing with a Rio 10HF. This will increase the flow from ~330gph to ~510 gph (at 6ft of head). Do you think this will be too much? <Will have to watch, a 1 inch bulkhead should handle around 600 gallons per hour.> I'm concerned about the adequacy of my drain and the turnover in the sump/refugium (see below). <Understandable.> I also have two MaxiJet 1200 powerheads in my display, a 1 to 1.5 inch live sand bed, and tons of live rock, maybe 80 to 100 pounds. It is lit with Coralife 260W (total) PC 10K and actinics. This fixture is mounted in my canopy. Coralife states the light is only to be used over covered aquariums. Mine is covered at the moment, but when summer rolls around it might get pretty warm. I have a small fan in the canopy (which has an open back) and can put a fan over the sump, but if heat is still an issue do you think it'd be okay to drill a bunch of small holes in the tank covers for more ventilation? <I would think this would be OK.> Moving on. I made the sump into a refugium, in the sense that I added Chaetomorpha, an 18W PC light, and live rock. The Chaetomorpha is doing great (despite the relative low light), and my nitrates are always below 5ppm. I just added a culture of live copepods into it, also. There's not too much room in there for much substrate due to the equipment (there's also a skimmer in there), but I've read that copepods prefer it. I think I could put about an inch in there (maybe in a casserole dish?), if it'd be worthwhile. <A possibility.> Another concern I have is that the copepods will get filtered out by the skimmer, which has a sponge filter on the outlet to reduce bubbles. I've heard many people prefer no mechanical filtration, or bio-balls for that matter. Would you take out the bio-balls (over a period of weeks) and/or the sponges? <You could if you find your Nitrates are increasing. I think I would lose the bioballs immediately, may be worth trying to keep the sponge just as a physical barrier for the microfauna.> My fishes at the moment are an Ocellaris clown, a royal Gramma, a yellow-streak fairy wrasse (C. luteovittatus), and a neon goby. I'm thinking of adding 3 Chromis and later down the road--here it comes--a mandarin or Rainford's Goby. <Please allow your tank to establish itself for several months and build up a large supply of microfauna before attempting either of these fish. In general the Rainford's Goby (Amblygobius rainfordi) is a better choice.> I know they are difficult, so if you recommend against it I will probably go with a flame angel or coral beauty instead. <Would be a better choice as long as you re aware of the risk of these angels nipping at your corals.> My Gramma is very shy, and I'm hoping that the Chromis will make him more comfortable about coming out of the rockwork. <May, may not.> As for invertebrates, I'm thinking a Scarlet Cleaner Shrimp, a Fromia Star, a Hawaiian feather duster, pulsing xenia, Green Star Polyps, a leather coral, and torch or frogspawn. I'll do more research on the exact species before I buy, and will make sure to keep plenty of space between them. What do you think of the plan, in general? <Fromia is a poor choice. I would not add this. It is doomed to starvation.> Okay, one last thing. I just set up a 10-gallon quarantine tank and put it's sponge filter in my sump to grow bacteria. I'll add 75% tank water and 25% new water. How long do you think it'll take to cycle? <Mmm, not sure, seeding the sponge will help, but you should monitor your levels with a test kit.> Sorry to bombard you with questions, I guess I'm a bit of a perfectionist. <As are many others.> Thanks again for all your help. <Welcome! -Mich> Scott Pico/Nano Reef Questions 1/25/07 Greetings. I am slowly ramping up a 10 gallon Nano. I would like to say that I have appreciated your site's non-judgmental yet honest approach to the small-tank side of this hobby. <Thanks for the compliment.> The system is currently running with the following clean-up crew (following cycling w/ live rock): 2 Astraea snails 2 Chestnut turbo snails (Turbo castanea) 2 Dwarf red hermits 2 Peppermint shrimp <A bit much on the snails for this volume of tank.> The cycle completed great, the clean-up crew added, and they are deftly handling the usual young tank algae issues. I feed the shrimp very sparingly with a frozen food about every other day. <Sounds acceptable, but keep it varied.> Fish-wise, my intent is to eventually stock it with 1-2 hardy fish, and if I go with two fish I would get probably get, for example, a neon goby and something else, such as a small damsel or a chalk bass (still debating and researching, sources conflict on chalk basses in tanks this small). <It is pushing it, a neon goby or two is the most you should do, no fish would be optimal.> I do not want a clown. I am pretty comfortable that I will eventually find suitable fish, and I have read your great suggestions on the site, but if you have additional advice to offer I am all ears. Here are two issues that I have been unable to find answers for: One: Light-wise I have a 2x40W fixture (Current Orbit Satellite). I would love to keep stony corals of some sort. I will certainly thoroughly research any species I choose beforehand and I realize that my system will limit my choices to some of the less light intensive species. I don't mind going with softies if I determine that stonies are a bad idea. The problem is there are so many options and so much info geared to the world of larger aquariums that it is hard to find a starting point. Can you recommend a few starting points for research of corals or families of corals that meet the following description, if any exist in your opinion: - Hard/stony - Do well with moderately bright lighting (8 W/g - I know, not a very useful measure), but don't necessarily need MH to thrive - Are not ultra-sensitive to a bit of unintended water parameter fluctuation - Don't have some other undesirable quality that makes them patently unacceptable in a Nano, such as long sweepers or a need for frequent solid foods Am I doomed to failure with hard corals or is it doable in this setup with careful species selection and water quality maintenance? Issue Two: Water quality is good overall so far, but for some reason there is a pH/Alk problem. My parameters are consistently: - SG = 1.023 - Temp = 78-80 deg. F - NH3/4 = 0 - NO2 = 0 - NO3 = 0+ (barely detectable) - Ca = 300mg - KH = 170 mg/L ( = 3.4 mEq/L, = 9.5 dKH) - PO4 = 0 Here's the interesting part: - pH = 7.9 I can't figure out why my pH is 7.9. It appears that it's not the water because I am using RO, and my RO tests at KH < 20 mg/L, GH < 20 mg/L, Ca < 20 mg/L. It is not a function of the tank environment because the salt mix (Instant Ocean) mixes to 7.9 in an empty, open top bucket. It appears that it is not a CO2/O2 issue because I have mixed the salt both inside the house and outside on the porch and it is the same. Plus, my house is poorly insulated and, being that it is winter in Florida, we have the windows open a lot. It appears that it is not an aeration issue because the pH is stable at 7.9 within an hour of mixing, still stable after mixing for 24 hours, and stable in the tank. I am using an open egg crate diffuser cover on my tank. The only other variable I can think of is the test kit (Hagen - expires 2010). It is a wide range kit, and it is a bit difficult to read, though I am confident it is reading slightly below 8.0. I am purchasing a new narrow-range kit just to make sure. Any suggestions? What could I be missing? I intend to slowly and carefully bring the Ca up closer to 350-400 with a part A/part B supplement prior to stocking with any hard corals, but I want to solve the pH mystery first and get things stable for a couple of weeks before I even start that process. Any thoughts or suggestions would be much appreciated. <Kemp...this should answer all if not most of your questions; let me know if you need more detail: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nanoreefsysart.htm .> Thanks, <Anytime.> Kemp <**AdamJ.> Fish for Nano System 1/14/07 Hello Mich, <Hello again Tom!> How were your holidays? <Most delightful and the New Year has been mighty fine too! Hope yours have been equally nice.> I was having some trouble trying to find something (fish wise) but I am stumped (hence my email to you). <Hope I can help.> I have been trying to find a good small fish that can be kept in a 5G Nano tank. I know this is very small but I have been doing months of research. <Yes this exceptionally small. I think one of the biggest issues with this size system will be water stability and water quality.> Now it is all ready except for the fish. It has been cycling for two months and everything is stable. The only thing in the tank right now is LR. If you could give any suggestions it would be appreciated. <This is awful small. I think the one possibility might be a neon or Sharknose goby (Gobiosoma oceanops or Gobiosoma evelynae) Bob also suggests a tank raised Royal Gramma (Gramma loreto) or Pseudochromis fridmani. Be sure to closely monitor your ammonia/nitrite/nitrate levels carefully in a system this small. Would also be wise to keep premixed fresh saltwater on hand in case problems arise. Nice to hear from you! Good luck! -Mich> Tom Nano Stocking 1/9/07 Hey Guys, <Hi> Quick question for you... <Ok> I have a 14g BioCube with about 20+ lbs of live rock and a few mushrooms, Palys and zoos. It's been up and running for about 4 months now and I regularly complete weekly 10% water changes. I'd like to add both a Banggai cardinal and an Ocellaris clown, but I wanted to get your opinion first. Do you think this would be too much for this system, both from a bioload and compatibility standpoint? <Yes> If both are too much, which would you recommend for the greatest success? <The clown by far, unless you can find a captive raised Banggai, then either one would probably be ok alone. Be aware of the long term difficulties of keeping a tank this size.> Many thanks, Derek <Chris> Re: Which Fish Should I Get? Hopefully only ones you can provide a happy home. Sm. Reef stkg. 1/8/07 <Hi Desiree, Mich with you today.> I recently got a 14 gallon fish tank that will be for saltwater fish, and I am wondering how many and which kinds of fish to buy. <Congratulations on you new tank. It is a very small tank for a saltwater tank. It can only house one or two fish happily.> I am going to get live rock, and I would like to get a fire Dartfish and a Banggai cardinal at first, and later (a few months) I would like to buy a green mandarin fish (don't try to talk me out of getting a mandarin because it won't work) and maybe a psychedelic mandarin. <Wise of you to get live rock. You are not going to like what I say here. But your tank is very small. It is really only suitable to house one or two fish at the most. If you get and successfully keep the Firefish and the Banggai, your tank will be quite crowded. There really isn't room for more fish in this tank. Mandarinfish are extremely difficult to feed. They really should only be kept in well-established systems where there is plenty of their natural prey. Many Mandarins slowly starve to death in systems much larger that yours because off the lack of food. I would strongly urge you to hold off on the Mandarins until your system has been established for at least a year or more and perhaps by that time you may even consider getting a larger system, which would provide a more suitable home for the fish you wish to keep.> Would the two mandarins be able to coexist and maybe get along if they were different genders? <Two males would most likely fight to the death. Two different sexes may or may not kill each other; regardless it will likely cause a great deal of stress. I would advise against this.> Would a Fromia sea star be appropriate after the tank has set up for about a year and a half? <No! Absolutely not. A 14 gallon system is entirely too small. The Fromia will also starve to death in this small setup. They often starve in systems that are larger than 100 gallons. You would be better off saving your money and upgrading to a larger system than buying livestock that is doomed to slowly, painfully starve. Please consider the quality of home you can provide to the animals that are relying solely on you for their care. You hold their delicate lives in your hands. -Mich> Thanks, Desiree Andersen 24 gallon Nano stocking advice 12/14/06 Hey guys, <Hi there Marshall! Michelle with you tonight.> I have a 24 gallon AquaPod which has been running for approximately 7 months. I have modified the filter chambers to create an actual overflow and added an additional 270 GPH powerhead giving the tank a combined 560 GPH. My pH runs low in my area so it usually stays around 7.9, and ammonia and nitrites are 0 ppm and my nitrates rarely exceed 5 ppm. <pH is a little on the low side. Do you have any live rock in your system? Are you buffering you top off water? Can easily be done by adding a little sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) to the water. Dose should be about 1 teaspoon per 20 gallons.> I realize that in this hobby there are rarely any absolutes as behavior often varies specimen to specimen, but my aim is to have a reef with a minimum possibility of conflict. <Excellent goal!> I am stocking my tank with a cleaner skunk shrimp, a peppermint shrimp, an Ocellaris clown, and green mandarin (which I personally observed on several occasions to eat frozen brine shrimp). <Yes, but there is little to no nutritional value to the brine shrimp. Have you tried frozen Mysid shrimp?> I am also stocking frogspawn, hammer, short tentacle plate, star polyps, pulsing xenia, bubble coral, orange tree sponge, orange tube anemone, and a Crocea clam. <That's a lot of allelopathic potential in a small tank. Watch the sponges, they can cause big problems if they die.> My question is how would a setup like this fair regarding species interaction (obviously aggressive invertebrates will be adequately spaced). Specific areas of concern are the shrimp and the clam, and the tube anemone attacking the fish. <You should be fine with the clam and the shrimp. However, the tube anemone can and will eat your fish. The mandarin is particularly vulnerable to the tube anemone. Please reconsider the anemone. It is not reef safe.> I am relatively new to the reef hobby and have been burned too many times by LFS's with questionable and often outright bad advice. <To succeed in this hobby the best thing you can do is educate yourself.> I greatly appreciate your time in giving my stocking concerns thought. <You are welcome. If you do not already own this book, please consider adding "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist" by Robert M. Fenner to your holiday list, In my opinion, it is the best written resource available to a new aquarist. -Mich> Marshall Read Deciding on a puffer species... System - 12/12/06 Hello. <Hi there> I currently set up a small 10 gal tank. The reason for this is I received some extra live rock and couldn't put it into my large reef. I have decided I would like to keep one interesting fish in the 10 gallon. It does not matter to me whether it is reef safe or not. I do not want to keep any of the usual fish that are recommended for a tank this size. Anyway, I have been reading into puffers and from your site have realized that the smaller species of puffer such as the Valentini cannot live in the 10 gallon (correct me if I'm wrong). <You are correct here... as a matter of fact, as far as I know there are no marine puffer species that are suitable for this small volume> I have also read puffers grow very slowly, would that allow me to keep a small one in the 10 for a while? <Mmm, nope> I can always upgrade when necessary. Another question I have is would I be able to accustom a figure 8 puffer to full marine water or would this be unsuccessful? <Mmm... not likely> I have read on your site that puffers can become accustomed to varying salinity therefore do you think this would work? <Variable by species, individuals...> If all the answers to all the above questions are no is there any other kind of puffer that I could keep in this tank? <Not IMO> Finally if there isn't do you have any recommendations on an exotic fish I could keep in this tank? <Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/smmarsysstkgfaqs.htm and the linked files at top> I have noticed that most of the fish I like are not reef compatible but pretty much all of them need large tanks. If there is anything that could live in the 10 please let me know. Thank you for your time and advice. Marcin. <Read on my friend, read on. Bob Fenner> 24G Nano -- fish stocking 12/11/06 <Hi Karl, Mich here today.> Firstly thanks for providing this forum it has helped me start my SW tank and limit my mistakes, and demonstrated how important it is to research new additions BEFORE opening the wallet! <Excellent!> Have a 24G NanoDX running for 2 months now, although still new at this everything seems to be going smoothly (H2O chemistry stable for quite some time now). Usual crew of cleaners, couple of Zoo's, plates, bubble and flat brain. Inverts (other than cleanup crew) include 2 feather dusters, flame scallop (should have read more b4 buying the scallop...I think). Have lost a feather star...early purchase LFS guy was out for $$ on that one...definitely should have read more, sad mistake but I am learning. <Learning is the goal.> Have added a Ocellaris Clown and I am looking to add some more fish.....small community guys that fit my tank.....I don't want to make more mistakes. <Very good to be an educated consumer.> I am thinking of a Pearly Jawfish (will he just hide away and be a $40 investment I don't see?), <Pearly Jawfish (Opistognathus aurifrons) are adorable fish, one of my favorites. Your tank would need to be completely covered as they easily startle and will go carpet surfing! You would need a deep sand bed, at least 3 inches deep. The Jawfish would also appreciate some small rubble. Given enough room and no overly aggressive tank mates these fish can provide hours of entertainment ...well, at least to a fish geek like me.> a Lawnmower Blenny (have not seen these at my LFS but a lot of Nano keepers seem to have them), <Lawnmower Blennies (Salarias fasciatus) need more space. An appropriate home would be a tank of at least 55 gallons.> Purple Flame Goby (seems to be a good choice overall) <Purple Firefish (Nemateleotris decora) also require a completely covered tank as they are jumpers also. I'm not sure I would put the Jawfish and the Firefish together as they both tend to hover near the sandbed and may stress each other.> .....and then I get stuck. Could you let me know if these choices make sense and if there is any other good Nano type community fish that fit my scenario.....I think I can go up to 5 - 6 small fish safely (over time of course). <Five to six is too many fish in such small tank, especially with your clown who could get over 3 inches long. When considering potential tank mates, I would try to think about where each fish would generally tend to reside i.e. water column versus sand bed. Try to only have one fish in each area in a tank this small. Close quarters leads to environmental stress, which is best avoided. You have the clown. You could consider something that stays near the sand bed like the Jawfish (if you can provide the requirements described above) or a shrimp goby (Stonogobiops sp.) and it's symbiotic Pistol Shrimp (Alpheus randalli). This relationship is interesting to watch. Maybe something that hangs out in the rock work, along the lines of a Royal Gramma (Gramma loreto) or Yellow Clown Goby (Gobiodon okinawae) or a Neon Goby (Gobiosoma sp.)> Thanks a ton.....Karl <Welcome! -Mich> Stocking and filtration in a 29g BioCube 12/9/06 Hi all, <Hello Linda! Mich here. Do you have family in Pennsylvania? Your last name is familiar.> I've been reading your site and have already gotten a lot of good info, but I have a few specific questions about my system. I've had my tank up and running for about 2.5 months now and, after some initial success, I've had a bit of a setback. I have a 29g BioCube that I stocked with 20lbs of live rock and 30lbs of live sand. <OK> The unit also has a carbon filter and bioballs (I also bought a Fission Nano skimmer but haven't set it up yet). <Skimmer is a good addition. Bioballs would be a good subtraction.> It has high intensity fluorescent lighting that is appropriate for the clam and coral, and I've added an extra water pump (in addition to the one that comes with the system) to increase circulation. <Please be aware of the clams high lighting requirements.> I have been using distilled or bottled drinking water, but I found out where to buy bottled R/O water and have now been using that for everything. <Yes, RO is better.> Specs for my tank are as follows: Ammonia/ Nitrites = zero Nitrates = 5-10 ppm <prefer 0 ppm> Temp 78 Sg 1.024-1.025 pH = 8.2-8.3 Calcium = 400-500 Coral: green star polyps, yellow polyps, pulsing xenia, green mushrooms and frogspawn (I'm also hoping to add a bubble coral and a torch coral to round out the collection) - all doing great. <I don't think I would add a bubble or a torch. Too much allelopathic potential here.> Cleaner Crew: 8 Astrea snails, 4 Nassarius snails, 2 blue leg hermits, 1 electric blue hermit. <OK> Inverts: 1 fire shrimp, 1 coral banded shrimp and 1 Crocea clam (all doing great, and both shrimp have already molted a few times). <You've only had the tank 2.5 months correct?> I initially stocked the tank with a hi-fin red banded goby and a wild caught Percula clown (who jumped into the filter system and died after a couple of days). <I'm sorry for your loss.> I immediately replaced the clown with a golden damsel. After a couple of weeks, I added a six-line wrasse (who got along great with the damsel and goby). Three weeks later, I added a tank raised Percula clown. The wrasse was fine with him, but damsel kept the little guy isolated in one corner of the tank (and also kept biting the goby's high fin off) so about two weeks later, I netted the damsel (after taking practically all the rock out of the tank) and took it back to the LFS and exchanged it for a royal Gramma - this is where my luck turned. <Luck!?!?> Unfortunately, the wrasse immediately started picking on the Gramma, which stayed in one corner of the tank. Despite the behavioral issues, the four fish all seemed healthy until about two weeks later when I noticed the clown swimming near the bottom of the tank. When I checked him the next morning...on Thanksgiving...he was very disoriented and died before I could get him out of the tank. <Again, I'm sorry for your loss.> (I now suspect Ich, but I wasn't sure at the time). The LFS was having a big sale on 11/24, so I got another tank raised Percula clown and added him to the tank. The wrasse wasn't fond of him either and so the clown joined the Gramma in his corner of the tank. Since I wanted to eventually have a total of five fish and my choices for the last fish were a Longnose Hawkfish or a flame angel, on 11/26 (in hopes of getting the wrasse to stop picking on the clown and Gramma) I bought a flame angel. <Adding more fish usually makes the problem worse, not better.> The Gramma was so frightened by the mere presence of the angel (who was completely non-aggressive toward the other fish), he hid in a small crevasse and only came out to grab a few bites to eat during feeding time. After about four days, the flame angel started hanging out at the bottom of the tank and was loosing his color a bit. By the next morning, he was at the top of the tank, very pale and having trouble breathing. I quickly got a quarantine tank set up (I know...I should have had one sooner) and gave him a fresh water dip, but it was too late. <Yes, QT should have been the first step. And again I'm sorry for your loss.> The next morning the clown met with the same fate, and I found the Gramma dead in the filter system that night (even though I have a plastic barrier to make it harder for them to jump the tank). <So many losses!> All that was left was the wrasse and the goby, but a week later I saw the fire shrimp with the half eaten remains of the goby (who seemed fine earlier that morning). <Wow! That's quite a lot of losses! I'm sorry.> OK, my questions are: 1. Is my ultimate goal of a wrasse, Gramma, clown, goby, and Longnose Hawkfish or flame angel OK for this system? <No! Plus the Hawkfish may well snack on your shrimp.> The BioCube manual suggested a 5-8 fish limit. <Way overcrowded!> If not, can I substitute a smaller fish for the angel/Hawkfish? Any suggestions? <Yes. Stop. Do not pass go. Start reading. Read more. Then read even more. Employ proper QT procedure. Be patient. There is much to learn. This tank can not be a happy home for the number of fish you are trying to put in it. It causes too much stress. When you have one fish hiding in a corner, that is one fish too many in the tank.> 2. The wrasse is still doing fine (very active, good color, eats like a piggy), so I'm not sure why the other fish died (marine Ich/velvet may have gotten the two clowns and the angel...but I'm not exactly sure what Ich looks like). <The root cause was most likely environmental stress. Ich may have been a factor also. But you need to read. Learn what Ich looks like, how to avoid it, what to do if you get it ... Here's a good starting place as far as Ich goes: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ichartmar.htm and here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ichart2mar.htm> I do weekly 10% water changes but I've had some problems lately with high phosphate levels (which I took care of with extra water changes and some Phos-Buster Pro) and an outbreak of cyanoBACTERIA, which I've read on this site can be toxic. I've also been battling an occasional microbubble problem. Could any of these have contributed to the fish death? <Unlikely. I suspect overcrowding was the primary cause of your problems.> Are toxins from the coral also something I need to worry about? <Yes allelopathy can be an issue among your corals, but unlikely related to your loss of livestock.> 3. I suspected overfeeding contributed to the phosphate/Cyano levels, so I've cut back. <Good.> Is it possible/likely that the coral banded shrimp got hungry and killed the goby? <Unlikely.> 4. I know the skimmer will help control excess nutrient levels but I'm not sure where to set it up. Are the bioballs necessary/helpful (given all the live rock and sand) or would it be better to get rid of them and put the skimmer in the chamber reserved for the bioballs? <The latter would be most appropriate.> I know this is a long message, but I'm a bit frustrated right now. <Understandably so.> Anyway thanks in advance, your website is great! <You are welcome and thank you for your kind words.> <Please consider adding "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist" by Robert M. Fenner to your holiday list. It will serve you well.> Linda Re: Stocking and filtration in a 29g BioCube 12/13/06 Hello Mich! <Hi there Linda!> Thanks for your quick response! <You are most welcome!> To answer your question...I do have a brother in Mechanicsburg, PA, but the name "Czyzyk" is like "Smith" in Poland (or so I'm told) and PA has some rather large immigrant communities, so I wouldn't be surprised if there were others out there. <Yes, strong ethnic identities are maintained for generations in many areas of PA. I bet a lot of people wish it was "Smith" if they've never heard "Czyzyk" pronounced! Looks harder than it is!> And you'll be happy to know that "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist" by Robert M. Fenner was already on my holiday list (I have the one he co-wrote on Marine Invertebrates which I really like and has lots of good info). <Yes, Reef Invertebrates is an excellent and beautiful book. However, it is my opinion that everyone who owns a saltwater tank should also own a copy of "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist". It is the best overall instruction handbook on keeping a saltwater tank. It is a "must have" for beginners and an essential reference for those with years of experience. If you only buy one book, "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist" is the one to purchase.> I've done quite a bit of reading over the last few months and I know I still have lots to learn, but it's hard to figure out what's best with all the different opinions out there. <Yes, as time and technology march on, we all must continue to learn.> Everything in the tank is still doing fine. <Good.> The clam and the coral seem to be thriving (and growing) and the Wrasse is enjoying the run of the tank. The shrimp and cleaner crew are all very active (and yes, the CBS molted 2x and the fire shrimp molted 3-4x in just 2.5 months in the tank). <Seems like a lot of molting, are you supplementing with iodine? If you are I would cut back.> I hope you don't mind, but I have a few follow up questions: <Nope, shoot.> Fish selection: I got the Wrasse because I read that it was a good choice for a beginner reef tank, but I've also read on your site that they can have an aggressive streak. <Yep.> Mine got along fine with the damsel and goby that were in the tank when he arrived, but when I got rid of the damsel and added the clown and Gramma, he seemed to pick on them. <Yep, The damsel and goby established their territory before the wrasse was introduced. The wrasse was the new kid on the block. So no problems. However, now the wrasse has established it's territory and now these new fish are invading the space, thus problems. Order of introduction becomes very important when planning tank inhabitants.> I'd like to have at total of 4-5 fish depending on size, and with the other fish dying, the Wrasse is now Fish #1. Given my interest in the following, which of these do you think would work best and in which order/how many at a time do you recommend adding them to the tank to minimize chances of the Wrasse picking on them: Sixline Wrasse <Max length 3 inches> Percula Clown <3 inches> Hi-Fin Red Banded Goby <2 inches>, Yellow Watchman Goby <3 inches>, Firefish <3 - 3.5 inches> Royal Gramma <3 inches>, Black Cap Basslet <4 inches> Blue/Green Chromis <4.5 - 5 inches> Flame Angel <4 inches> Longnose Hawkfish <5 inches> (conflicting info on Hawkfish in general vs. the Longnose as a danger to shrimp on your site, plus they're cool fish). Also, is a Flame Angle totally out of the question in a 29g BioCube with the Wrasse and one or two other small fish (can you tell I really want one)? And are there any other smaller fish not on my list that you recommend for this mix? <You can not successfully keep all these fish in a 30 gallon tank long term. It's just too much fish and not enough space. If you really want a Flame Angel (Centropyge loricula), you can have a Flame, but it should be the last fish introduced. They can be bullies and about half of all flames will eat some of your corals. So if you plan on having a flame and you already have the six-line wrasse (Pseudocheilinus hexataenia) that's a substantial fish load for a 30 gallon tank. I think this rules out all the other fish on your list with the possible exception of a shrimp goby (Stonogobiops sp.).> Coral selection: I've heard it's OK to mix hard and soft coral as long as you do weekly water changes and maintain good water quality, and others say it's best not to. <Depends on what your goals are.> Given that I have mainly soft coral: green star polyps, yellow polyps, pulsing xenia, green mushrooms (the yellow polyps and xenia were started from frags and have really taken off), and one LPS: frogspawn, if I add a bubble or torch coral, where is the allelopathic potential coming from? <Chemical warfare between the LPS corals. The frogspawn will release toxins to prevent other corals from invading it's space.> I haven't been able to figure out why mixing the same kind of coral is ok while putting hard and soft together can be a problem...is it because soft coral are less sensitive to toxins put out by other soft coral and vice verse? <Yes, As a very loose generality soft corals tend to be more toxic and be tend to tolerate the toxicity of others better.> Would the bubble coral be the "victim" or the "aggressor" in this mix? <Both to a degree.> I've read the mushrooms have toxins that can affect LPS, is that correct? <Yes> My frogspawn is doing great right now but will it have problems long term if it is in the same tank as the mushrooms? <Should survive, but may not flourish.> They are all spaced several inches apart right now and I have one or two other spaces for a nice specimen. Do you have any suggestions, given I like specimens with large or swaying polyps? <Maybe a gorgonian.> Thanks again! <You are welcome, keep reading. -Mich> Linda Re: Protein Skimmer Application, Now Nano Stocking Questions 11/29/06 Thanks so much for your fast response! <You're welcome.> I say that only want live rock right now because I want to make sure that I've got everything right before I start adding any critters. What would your suggestion be for when I do feel ready to add something that actually moves to the aquarium? <"Moves to the aquarium?" "in" possibly?> I'm not set on whether I want to do FOWLR in such a small space, but the thought of putting corals in is scary to a newbie to salt water! <Reading/learning about what you would like to add will help calm you.> I guess what I want to <know> is whether you would recommend putting fish or some type of coral in there. Ether way I don't want anything to be to complicated and it needs to thrive in a small environment, but I have to start with something beside live rock at some point. <What I think is attractive is a couple of colorful small gobies, even a shrimp goby/pistol shrimp combo, some soft corals, such as Zoanthids, mushrooms, yellow polyps, etc, all hardy and relatively easy to care for.> Sorry if I confused anybody by switching email I just realized that I used my Father's email ( he's probably trying to figure out where in heck this odd email came from and what in the world a protein skimmer is!) to ask my first question, and I only just found the answer in the FAQs. I won't switch on you again. this was the previous response that I got back. Thanks! <You're welcome. Here is a link for you on Nano tanks....<<Uhh, James? RMF>> Do read along with linked files above. Always reply with the original query as you have done. If changing subject matter, do send a new query. It makes our filing/placing much easier. James (Salty Dog)> Changing To A New Tank ... small SW stocking 11/24/06 Hello WWM, <Hey Jackie, JustinN with you today.> Happy Thanksgiving!!!!!! <Same to you, albeit a day late> I currently have a 24 gal AquaPod (up and running for 7 mo.s) with the following stock: LS LR - 40 lbs <That's a lot of rock in such a small space!> 1 Clown Wrasse <...> 1 Dispar Anthias <....> 1 Clark Clown 1 Royal Gramma 1 Blue Tang <.....> 1 Brittle Star 1 Sally Lightfoot 1 BTA 1 Emerald Crab 2 Porcelain Crabs Pulsing Xenia 1 Sponge 1 Tiny Unidentified Anemone Various Hermit crabs & Snails A few Stony Corals <...You're Joking, right? The Clown wrasse has an adult size of 7 inches, the Anthias, while stays small, requires a LOT of live rock and a LOT of swimming room, and does best with conspecifics, and the blue tang... I won't even say what I think about a hippo tang in a 24gal Aqua Cube. Needless to say, I feel you're incredibly over- and mis-stocked.> I am getting a 90 gal reef aquarium for Christmas. <MUCH better, but still not enough to comfortably house your tang for the duration of its life...> My concerns are many. <Ok, I'll end my tirade here, and move on to the questions. Do please consider a new home for your tang, before its genetic problems become incredibly apparent.> I do not have the facilities to have both tanks running at the same time. <Ok> I am assuming I would drain about half of the water from the old tank (into a bucket), move the old tank, setup the new tank with new sand & new water. Add the water I drained from the old tank to the new tank. Remove LS & LR from the old tank and add to the new tank????? Because I don't have the facilities to have both tanks running simultaneously, how can I cycle the new tank? The water I'm getting from the LFS has a PH of 8.3, and salinity of 1.021. <This salinity is very low. I would either purchase the salt to increase this to NSW levels (1.025) or begin making water yourself. With the larger volume of water you are set to be in charge of, perhaps an RO/DI unit of your very own is in your future? Check out www.purelyh2o.com for some very well priced units.> My existing tank has a PH of 8.0, and the salinity is 1.024. I understand I'll need to acclimate the inhabitants before placing them into the new tank. However, I am concerned about the drastic change in PH & salinity. What are your thoughts? <I'd be somewhat concerned too, however, a slow drip acclimation in buckets would likely work just fine. Methodology for this process is posted on WWM.> My next concern is my BTA & Xenia. The BTA is stuck (for lack of a better word) to the base of the largest/tallest rock in my tank. In addition, I have Pulsing Xenia on the top of the same rock. How can I acclimate the BTA & Xenia while attached to the rock? Should I try to remove both the BTA & Xenia from the rock? I'm so confused and scared that they're going to die. <Use the same bucket-drip acclimation method mentioned above.> Please help. Jackie <Seeing as you're moving into larger quarters, you will likely need more live rock ultimately in your new configuration as well. No matter what way you slice it, however, there will be a definite risk of a spike and a cycle occurring here. The only thing I can suggest different in your methodology is to purchase a sufficient quantity of Marineland's Bio-Spira. This additive is the only one on the market that contains nitrifying bacteria ready to go. Using this method, I would move all of your live rock and sand as you planned, and then add the Bio-Spira to a filtration/high flow area while you are drip acclimating your livestock. This would instantly cycle the new quarters, and alleviate that side of the concerns when adding your livestock. I hope this helps you! -JustinN> Stocking Questions -- 20 gallon Saltwater 11/21/06 Hello Team, <Hey Tom, JustinN with you tonight> I have one quick question for you. I have a well established (6 months) 20G saltwater tank. <Mmm, still establishing> So far I have tried to play it very safe with stocking. Right now I have one tank raised Percula clown, a shrimp and some hermit crabs and snails. I have read some of your Q&As and seen that other people have mush more in smaller tanks. <You may also often notice these against the crews recommendations...> What I would love to have would be a Coral Beauty, and two Clownfish. I am guessing that it would be too heavy of a bio load but I would like know what you think. I have a very efficient skimmer and filter. Thanks for your time. Tom <Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but your tank is, in my opinion, at least 35 gallons too small for a Coral Beauty. While these fish are much smaller than the other larger angelfish, they still do need ample swimming room and live rock to graze on. Perhaps you might be interested in some of the more comical blenny species (a personal favorite), or gobies? Keep reading, you'll get there! Hope this helps! -JustinN> MH lighting, mis-stocking in a too small SW system 11/19/06 I am trying to make sense out of what I am about to say to you guys, <Appreciated> anyways I recently purchased a second 150 watt energy savers unlimited tank mount metal halide because one did not cover my entire 58 gallon reef tank. The occupants are a golden angel, <Mmm... aurantius? Needs much more room> two Percula clowns, yellow goby, and a dwarf hog. Coral are elegance, <Dangerous to crowd, have in small volumes> hammer, mushrooms, xenia, and a toadstool, <Do be diligent here re water changes, switching out chemical filtrants... I would not add any other invertebrate life.> there's 300 watts of light total and for one thing it seems to be to much for the angelfish, <Yes... I would only use one such fixture here> also my electric bill is going up more than I thought it would, <You are wise to be aware here> so I was thinking instead of buying a new set of lighting could I reduce the length of time the lights are on right now its about nine hours a day, or could I get away with just using one halide and centering it, <This is what I would do> that would give me 150 watts of light. I also forgot to mention that there is a rose bubble anemone in the tank, Thanks Ron <... you should take the time to read re each of these listed species "Systems", "Compatibility"... on WWM... some potential disaster looming. Bob Fenner> Mespilia globulus 11/19/06 I have a 25 gallon with 12 bumble bee snails, a Hawaiian feather duster, a colored feather duster, an Arabian Dottyback, 12 dwarf blue leg hermits, 5 Nerite snails, 5 Tonga snails, a Bi-color Blenny, and 5 Scarlet hermits. I'm planning on adding a Fire shrimp and a cleaner shrimp. <Only one or the other... and not a Stenopid...> I've been looking into a Mespilia globulus. Do you think it would be compatible with everything else? <I would not add an Urchin of any species here... too small a volume, too crowded with organisms that fill about the same niche> What about some small mushrooms? <Could be tried> I've never kept them before but was thinking about them as well. My tank has been running for 10 months and has a large amount or algae growth (I just added the blenny and the Scarlets). <Ahh. I would wait on them...> Parameters are good, and filtration is high (Emperor 280, SeaClone 100), 2" sand bed, and standard fluorescent lighting. Rich Chen <Bob Fenner> Nanos... stocking limitations/choices
11/8/06 Hi Crew, I've been doing some research on
Nanos. I'm kind of drawn to the challenge of these little systems.
I was thinking of keeping an anemone and a pair of black and white
Ocellaris clowns in a 12 gallon AquaPod. <... a poor idea... Way too
much chance/inevitability for disaster...> Will the two 27watt CF
bulbs (1 daylight 1 actinic) be adequate for say a carpet anemone (12in
deep tank)? <No> My other idea was just a pair of clams. <Also
a poor stocking notion> Could they thrive in this environment?
<No... insufficient volume to provide stability... too much
potential for slippery slides to environmental degradation, loss>
I'm definitely going to use a Nano protein skimmer and live rock,
R/O water, and frequent water changes. Does either of these ideas sound
workable? <Nope> BTW used ChemiClean on my 55g reef tank to fight
a serious Cyano problem - worked beautifully! 3 weeks later, there is
no Cyano, and corals, macro algae, and fish are doing great. <Glad
to hear of your good luck/experience here> Thanks for your advice,
Mike <Welcome. Bob Fenner> Re: Nanos, anemones, visiting HI 11/12/06 Thanks for all your help, Bob. I really appreciate it. I'm going to work on a design that would have say a 12 gallon display and a 20 gallon refugium hidden in the stand. Hopefully I can come up with a workable Nano-anemone display. <Mmm, these are challenging at this volume... but can be done> We're planning a HI trip for January. Debating between Wailea and Kona. <Really like Kona (am there now), but Wailea is also fabulous> Any specific suggestions regarding diving companies/instructors? <Yes... In Kailua, Big Island Divers, Jack's Diving Locker... and Dive Makai... though there are many other excellent services in the industry here> Never been to Kona. Have any lodging suggestions? -Mike <Mmm, if you have to pay... the (Kona) Seaside is a fave... inexpensive (for the area), right on the main drag (Palani and Ali'i Dr.) and have kitchenettes... which can save you a bundle on meals. A hu'i ho! Bob Fenner> Stocking and Photos 10/23/06 Dear WWM Crew, <Hi> First, thanks to all of you for a great site and for volunteering your time to the aquarium community. I have several questions regarding the appropriate stocking of a 55 gallon reef tank. I have kept a 20 gallon Nano-reef for about a year and decided to upgrade because I wanted the chance to have more vertebrates: Tank Size - 55 Gal, 48" Lights - 65 watts of actinic, 195 watts of full-spectrum (all pc's) 60lbs of live rock 3/4" of sand <Sounds nice.> Residents in order of introduction: 1 Pair Amphiprion Ocellaris 1 Chrysiptera parasema 1 Gramma brasiliensis 2 colonies of xenia elongata, 1 colony of button polyps, and 1 colony of Zoanthids. 2 SPS - unidentified... (these seemed to be dead pieces that came with the softies, but they are now growing...) <Nice> Chemical parameters: Nitrate, nitrite - 0ppm Ammonia - 0ppm pH - 8.3 Temp - 80F <Good> Maintenance: 5% water change twice a week, no chemicals are added except for 1 tsp calcium bicarbonate with each water change. I have found frequent water changes with a reputable salt-mix to be better than dumping supplements into my tank. <Wisdom here!> I have seen many sources say that damsels can be maintained in small groups, but these sources rarely specify whether the damsel groups must be of the same species. <Best> Is it possible to have 1-3 yellowtail damsels and a small shoal of green Chromis, given my tank size and occupants? How would this affect future vertebrate choices? <Perhaps one or the other, although when you include your current fish lots of chances to get some aggression problems. Both the clowns and Gramma can get quite territorial.> On another note, I have read Mr. Fenner's "Conscientious Marine Aquarist" cover-to-cover several times (great book!), <I like it too.> and try to use the pictures to answer questions that the text does not. That took me to this observation: in the section regarding setting up different "types" of tanks, the fish and invertebrate set-up seems to be quite heavily stocked. There are 16 fish altogether, some of which would likely need new quarters eventually. Any comments on this mixture of inhabitants? <A sacrifice to marketing/aesthetics most likely. Publishers like books with pretty pictures and lots of fish, easier to sell. Will copy Bob on this to see if he cares to elaborate.> <<Is as you both speculate... not of my choosing... but hopefully not too/often misleading. RMF>> Ultimately, I am looking at having my four current fish, a dwarf angel, a butterfly, and a goby as my final inhabitants, with the extra damsels if possible. <Would leave out the damsels if you want these other fish, too much for a 55 otherwise.> I would really like a small Zebrasoma tang of some sort, though I know it will need a new home sooner than later. I have already upgraded once, and would be willing to do it again. Any comments on that mix of fish? <Forget the tang unless you already have the bigger tanks.> I had to research very thoroughly to balance the Nano-reef, and wouldn't want to add any new stock without again doing enough research. Thanks ahead of time! Regards, JonMichel Seman <Chris> 30 gallon tank - 10/17/06 Hi, just a quick thanks before I even ask a question, you guys rock. <Hey Tris, you are too nice to us. We appreciate people who do the research.> I'm shutting down my 135 gal tank, to 2 more manageable tanks while I'm at school. I have already set up a 30 gallon cube and will set back up a 55 gallon of mine. I have a urchin that was a hitchhiker on my live rock years back, he has grown considerably and I was hoping that he could go into my 30 gal? <I think he would be fine in a 3o gallon. I understand your hesitation and thinking about waiting but you need a tank that is established to provide him plenty to eat.> In the tank are 2 Percula clowns, 1 little watchman goby, a royal Gramma, elephants ear mushroom, Ricordea, candy cane, 2 cleaner shrimp,2 feather dusters,1 tiny tiger tail Cuke and some pipe organ...wow that sounds like a lot. Would I be better to wait and put him in the 55 when I set it up? also is there any specific requirements to keeping pipe organ? the polyps never extend for me. <Pipe organ coral is difficult to feed, you might try to use the cone method for feeding each individual polyp to get that, you don't mention your lighting but they have high lighting requirements as well. At least halide in my experience so you might be better to trade it for a different coral.> Now with enough live rock and janitors would I have to have filtration on my 30 gallon? right now it has a little whisper filter which looks odd on a cube. <With you load, I would consider adding additional filtration but definitely some type of additional water movement.> Sorry for so many questions, last one...I promise. On my 55 which is 20" high, would I have enough light to keep some sort of anemone? The light is 260 watts of pc. I would like a RBTA but don't know if I can. <You might be able to keep an Atlantic anemone but honestly I think you are going to have troubles. thank you so much for the help and I look forward to hearing back from you. <You are going to do great with everything you do, you read and research and ask questions and are doing so much right. Great job, MacL> Tris Just a few questions I seem to be getting the most conflicted advice on. New Setup Checkup 10/2/06 Hi. Your site is great, I've learned a lot already from it and hope to keep learning from you. <Good to hear.> I am saving money up to start a saltwater tank, and am definitely interested in doing things correctly the first time. <Good> When I started keeping freshwater tanks a few years ago I was steered in every wrong direction possible, a mistake I don't want to make this time, especially since most of the stores here seem to be in the same "money over customer" base one store even told me I could keep 2 Oscars in a 10 gallon tank forever!) <Well, I wouldn't go there for advice ;)> I guess I should start with my plans. I only have the space for a small tank, a 29 gallon. I am going to use aragonite sand and have a bed of about 2". <Less than 1 or more than 3 is best.> I am unsure about how much rock I am going to use, I am going to get a lot of porous 'dead' rock from my LFS and seed it with some beautiful aquacultured live rock that I have found. Probably about 5 lbs of the LR. For my equipment, I know I will use pc lighting, have a skimmer and have a fuge. Plus the obvious things like heaters. I plan on getting all of the non-living things first, setting up the tank then adding the live rock to cycle it. I figure the rock can cycle it and while that is happening I can watch to make sure I don't have any bad hitchhikers in the tank. After it has been set up for a couple of months (after cycle basically) then I will add the livestock to it. <I would probably let it run a little longer to let the LR really establish itself and seed the base rock.> I don't want a lot of fish, just a few. I know I will have an Ocellaris clown, and a clown goby still haven't' decided on a colour yet, most likely a citrinus though) I was planning on a rainfordi goby, but have read at your site that they need a more established tank. <Yep> Though would a 29 gallon tank be enough for one after it has been set up for a while? <Probably not.> Or should I forget about that plan? <I would> I want about 10 snails, an even mix of Astrea, Cerith and Nassarius. <Good> I am also planning on getting a scarlet hermit crab or two, I love to watch hermits and have been told that those are the most reef safe, as far as crabs go. <Yep> I don't have any plans to keep shrimp, but if I did decide to I would get peppermint cleaners. <They are nice, enjoyed them when I had them it the past.> For the corals, I will have a random assortment of Zoanthid and palythoas. A Ricordea and some xenia. Perhaps someday a Capnella OR devil's hand for some variety. Does this sound like too much livestock, or can you find any big incompatibility problems with my list? <Not really, just don't overload it with corals, just a few and leave them room to grow.> For my filtration, I know the skimmer and rock are the bulk of it, but what skimmer should I get? I was going to get a remora, but the LFS I am going through is hesitant to get any in because he has never used them himself. <I absolutely love mine.> He stocks the CoraLife super skimmers. <Check some of the message boards for opinions on this model.> I have heard that either works "better" than the other. Also I have heard, dumb question here, that xenias like their water a bit Underskimmed. <High water quality is important for these like all other corals.> Would I be overskimming for them with either skimmer, or would I be just fine? <Will be fine.> The fuge I am going to use will be an AquaClear filter made into one. It'll have some sand, perhaps a bit of rock, and some macro. Probably either sea lettuce or turtle grass. Is either one better than the other? <Should be fine, although not as fast growing as some other macroalgae.> It'll be lit by a small pc light. I'm hoping to grow out pods in it. <Will> The model of filter I was looking at has 500 gph flow rate. Should I go for the next size down model(300 gph), or should I keep this one in mind? <Bigger the better.> Also, with either size would I need to have additional powerheads for more flow, or should I be fine with that much? <Almost impossible to have too much flow, I would add a powerhead or two.> My LFS has said to add another one or two powerheads to that mix, yet that seems like the flow would be nonstop everywhere in the tank. <Looking for 10X tank volume turnover.> Also, how much light should I get? <Depends.> The LFS has said that the single light pc strip(65 watts) should be more than enough for the tank. <Maybe> Should I stick with that plan or should I get the double strip light? I am never going to have any form of anemone, clam or SPS in the tank. And really most LPSs don't interest me. Huge IF I ever tried one in that tank it would be a candy cane. I've read that they don't need massive amounts of lighting, and I could keep it near the top of the tank for more than it would be getting otherwise. So yeah, 65, or 130 watts? <Really depends on what specific corals you get.> What salt should I use? Hm, don't really know how to elaborate more on that one, just which brands seem to be better, in your experience? Or is there even a really big difference? <Most are pretty comparable. Most popular is Instant Ocean, most commonly available, reasonably priced. Shedd Aquariums brand of choice if that helps.> I think that is about all my head has rattling around in it at the moment, so thank you in advance for your time. <Sure> Dana <Chris> Small marine single species trials 10/2/06 Hello There! For years I have had a 20 gallon marine aquarium, which is currently empty. Beforehand I had several animals in there (i.e. Coral Banded Shrimp, Scooter Blennies, Damsels, <Too small for> ect <No such word... etc... a contraction for et cetera res... "and other things"> ), but over the years those eventually died off and I haven't bothered to restock it. So currently the only inhabitants are several small "Scud" creatures <You point them and they go?> and anything else lurking in the live rock. I, of course, and interested in making my aquarium a home for a meaningful animal again, but I <I...> have some plans that seem to be very unusual, for very few people have any information on the species I plan on. I want a single species display tank, but of the animals I have in mind I can only keep one. anyways, here goes: The first species I had in mind was the Speckled Crab (Arenaeus cribrarius). He's closely related to the Blue Crab and is not the most polite animal to have in a tank. however, they do seem interesting to keep especially for feeding. The second species I had in mind was also a swimming crab, the Lesser Blue Crab (Callinectes similis). these guys are a bit more brightly colored. <And tasty> Oh, and yes in case you were wondering I have considered buying a live blue crab from the local grocery store and putting it in my tank, the biggest reason I didn't, however, is because they get much larger than the two species I listed. also: I cannot imagine an animal being sold for food is in great health. <Mmm, when "fresh", well-handled...> The other species I had in mind were all snails..... predatory ones at that. First I wanted a Tulip Snail since those are for sale from time to time and stay a reasonable size. Am only discouraged by their almost total lack of ability to feed on bivalves thus negating my plan of running up the grocery store every few days and buying a few live mussels. The other two species CAN feed on mussels: the Lighting Whelk and Pear Whelk. the Lighting Whelk was my first idea, but those get BIG. so then I decided on a Pear Whelk, which stays a reasonable size. Unfortunately, with the exception of the Tulip Snail, none of the species I mentioned are really ever available for the pet trade. My local pet store did have a Horse Conch for $99, but those are monstrous. The other 4 species I have seen for sale at some scientific institutes, but apparently they only sell to public aquaria and universities. So my questions are: how "Hardy" are these animals? (compared to more common aquarium species), and do you think these will every become available? Thank you VERY much. <Like most marines, are very/quite hardy... if collected, held, shipped... appropriately, processed expediently... Worth trying. Bob Fenner> Hello, I have a 26g bowfront tank that I wish to set up as an anemone/clown system. - 09/22/06 For lighting I have a 130w orbit pc fixture. For water movement I will be using an AquaClear 110 power filter and a MaxiJet 600 powerhead. I also have 30lbs of CaribSea Aragamax sand. I will be using about 26lbs of premium Fiji LR as well. I have a 24g reef and it has been running great for 6 months, and I have had reefs in the past, so I wanted to do something new. I'm pretty sure the only anemone I would be able to keep would be a BTA, but if possible I would like to try and LTA because I really wanted to do a pair of Orange Skunk clowns. if not, I will more than likely do the BTA with a single maroon clown. My question are, will I be able to keep an LTA under my lighting, and would any other anemones be possible? someone said I could try a carpet as well? if so how often and what should I feed it? There will be no corals in this tank, just the anemone. also, would I be able to do a few of those colorful rock/flower anemones( Epicystis crucifer) in there as well? if I happen to do the BTA, would I be able to do a pair of gold stripe maroons or would I just have to do a single? I know they get big. <<Jordan: I have a LTA in about 5" of sand under 400W MH SE lighting. The anemone seems to be thriving and is about 18 inches in diameter. LTA's need a sand bed several inches deep in order to bury their foot. Since you have never kept an anemone, I suggest looking for a clone of the Bubble Tip Anemone. They are much easier to keep, can live under less powerful lighting, and because they are clones, they weren't pulled out of the ocean. Most species of clowns will easily host in them. I had a pink skunk clown that hosted in my BTA (until he found a way to jump out of the tank). Best of luck, Roy> JB 10 Gallon Marine Tank: A Doomed System? 9/16/06 I looked through FAQ's on the Marine section of your website (and I recommend this site to anyone with a fish/aquarium/amphibian/meaning of life question, you are all amazing) and read the (very discouraging) article on small marine tanks as well as the ones on Nano reefs, and I am still tempted. I really don't have the option of anything larger than a 10 or 12 gallon tank (worries of the floor falling through to the driveway below after a period of time), but I am VERY interested in a marine tank. As in, I spend much free time drooling over articles about it online, and drooling over the books that I cannot afford to buy in paper but instead check out of the library. [I highly doubt I am alone in this. I also think I may be stalking several articles on WWM.] I know the larger the better: more stable; easier to maintain; and in case of livestock death, the whole thing won't go kalbooie as easily. But I really want a small, happy, marine tank. I like the idea of keeping Featherduster worms because I love watching them. I also really like barnacles and anemones, but I doubt even you can think of an anemone or barnacle that would do well in this size tank. (I can dream, though.) I'd be in heaven with a single anemone, Featherduster worms and maybe a fish (not necessary at all for me to be happy). I read and understood the stern advice about over-feeding: keeping Bettas will do that to you. Does anyone at WWM have some favorite invertebrates you can imagine doing well in a small tank like this? I understood the shrimp (fire, scarlet and sexy) and the mushrooms as well as polyps, but are there any specifically that are hardy and do well in a (much) smaller environment? I'm more interested in the invertebrates and reef-type systems, but I just don't have the ability to keep a larger tank. I realize I have to do much more frequent water changes and constantly test, but my mom's a chemist so I've got more than a little know-how of practical chemistry and I can devote the time to testing daily and weekly 1/4 to 1/3 water changes. I'd love to set up a tank like this, but I realize the futility of a failed endeavor and don't want to kill livestock and waste money because I am determined to try something stupid. I'm also not talking about setting up a tank like this for some time, I feel more research is necessary--again, I don't want to kill the animals or stunningly crash and burn. Thank you for any advice you can give, Meghan R <<Meghan: A 20 or 25 would give you even more flexibility if you can swing it. Invert only tanks are really cool. In a small tank, you could have a Skunk Cleaner Shrimp, hermit crabs, feather duster, etc. In my 25, I currently have a coco worm and a tuxedo urchin (great creatures but they need coralline algae to eat). Frankly, an anemone is not realistic in a small tank; but, you can get the waving movement effect with several other things; including colt coral, frogspawn, Fungia, torch coral. Small tanks are harder to maintain; but, if you proceed cautiously, you can do it. Best of luck, Roy>> Deteriorating Toadstool...Noxious Corals in a Nano Tank - 09/14/06 Good afternoon Crew! <<Morning here...Hello!>> Hope you're enjoying this beautiful fall afternoon! I'm writing today with a concern about my toadstool leather. I've attached a previous email that describes my set up. <<Thanks for the background info>> Everything is the same, except I've finally conquered the hair algae battle!! :-) <<Yay!>> I didn't think that the day would ever come! <<Can/does usually take time...and perseverance>> My concern is this. About 2 weeks ago, the leather shed its waxy coating as normal. (It usually does this about once every 5-7 days.) Then the day after it shed, the tentacles retracted and it shed again the next day. Then it repeated this again 2 days later. <<Mmm...would seem something has gotten in to the water and is irritating the toadstool. Any new livestock additions?>> Since then (it has been about 5 days now, the tentacles are still retracted. <<That's not a good sign>> And I've noticed a difference in the texture of the coral. The coral used to have slightly concave areas where the tentacles retract into. Now the areas are convex (like little bumps) and very white instead of being the same shade as the rest of the coral. I have also noticed that the entire coral has changed a bit in color. It is now slightly grayish. <<Another "not good" sign>> I've done 2 large water changes (each about 25%) over the last several days & I've changed my Chemi-Pure out for a new batch thinking maybe a bit of allelopathy was to blame here. <<Indeed...but have you also done tests for all the "usual" culprits? (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate)>> But none of the other corals seem to be suffering any. <<Maybe just "not yet">> My Zoas are fully open & the xenia is pulsing away as always. <<Hmm, how "close" are these Zoanthids to the toadstool?>> One other thing, the stalk seems to have developed a "crease" and is a bit folded over. <<Yes...the coral is declining and starting to collapse>> I'm wondering if I need to frag below the crease & hope that it regenerates itself, or do I do nothing and hope for the best? <<Any "fragging" would need to be done from the "crown" for much hope in propagating/saving a piece of this coral (but you could try if you wish). Might be best to observe/remove if the deterioration worsens>> If I need to frag it back, that presents yet another problem. It has attached itself to several large rocks which are all epoxied together. <<Possibly a moot point here>> I'm not sure if I can remove it?! Otherwise I would have quarantined it by now. (I have photos but they don't seem to go through when I try to email them. I think that the firewall on my server chucks these out.) Thanks in advance for your input. -Jaime <<Keep an eye on the toadstool and remove immediately if it worsens/starts to "come apart" to preclude further poisoning of your system. I also suggest you try to determine the core reason for this incident...do water tests, review your stock placement/density//compatibility, etc. I truly suspect the fact this is a 12g "Nano" system stocked with noxious soft corals is the reason for your troubles. Regards, EricR>> Stocking Advice - 09/10/06 I have a 29 gallon tank with 25 pounds of live rock and 30 pound of live sand. Right now the inhabitants are a Midas Blenny, 2 scarlet hermit crabs, 2 top snails, and 2 Margarita Snails. I would like for a single gold stripe maroon clown with a BTA to be the centerpiece of the tank, and I know I should introduce this fish last because of its aggression, but I would first like to have one or two other small fish. What are some good, active, small fish that would be compatible with a Maroon Clown and a Midas Blenny? Thanks, Vince <<Vince: If your anemone reaches maximum size, things could get pretty tight in your tank. Since Maroon Clowns are so aggressive, you might want to consider getting two of them, instead of an unrelated species. Another interesting option would be a Skunk Cleaner Shrimp. They are always out and neat to watch. Best of luck, Roy>> Stocking a 25G Marine
9/7/06 Hello! <Hi> First I would first like to say thank you
so much for all of your help! I would have given up months ago if it
weren't for your site, and Bob's book. <Is a great
book.> After having my tank for almost 6 months, and
after a lot of rethinking, I'm re-planning my stocking list. I
would just like for someone to look it over, and see if this would be
too much for my tank and/or if the animals are compatible? I have a 25
gallon saltwater Marineland Eclipse, 24"L, 12"D, 18"H,
25 lbs. of live rock, and about .5" live sand. I do a 20% water
change weekly. I keep my Spg at about 1.022. <A little low, closer
to NSW levels would be better.> I don't have a Protein Skimmer,
because of the tank that I ignorantly chose. <Have seen some adapted
for this tank, not easy though.> I would also like to add some sort
of Powerhead to increase circulation a little more. <Always a good
idea.> Anyway! Right now I have 3 Blue-Green Chromis, 1 Cleaner
Shrimp, 1 Emerald Crab (that I'm trying to catch and return. Pesky
little bugger!) 2 Hermit Crabs, 8 Turbo Snails, and a colony of Purple
Mushrooms. I would like to stock (slowly, and of course with 3 weeks of
QT): 1 Banggai Cardinal (Pterapogon kaudneri) 1 Elegant Firefish
(Nemateleotris) 1 Orchid Dottyback (Pseudochromis Fridmani) 1 Small
Orange Marble Starfish (Fromia monilis) And I can keep or remove my
current 3 Green-Blue Chromis, depending on how much strain they will
have on the system. Are any of these creatures unsuitable for QT?
<No> I've read that starfish are messy and can put a strain
on a small tank. Is this true? <They can get quite large.> I
can't seem to find much information on that. Thank you for your
help. I look forward to hearing your insight! -Christy <For a 25 I
would say you are fully stocked now, and would not add any
more. Also, would not combine the Dottyback with any of
these more passive fish in this sized tank, he will get too
aggressive.> <Chris> Re: New Marine Setup/Cloudy Water - 09/07/06 Eric and Crew, <<Hey Rick!>> You've done it again. I followed your advice and the water has steadily cleared up. <<Ahh...always gratifying to hear/read>> I placed the powerheads back in the aquarium as directed and simply waited this thing out. Within 3 days the bloom was practically gone. <<As is usually the case. I'm glad you were able to muster the patience to wait it out>> Now, after a week the water is crystal clear and I'm getting some really interesting growth in the Live Rock (By the way, I ordered my live rock from LiveAquaria.com, select Lalo rock, it's gorgeous and I'd highly recommend it ). <<I have been hearing much praise for this rock of late>> I do, however, have a few quick questions, if you have the time. <<Certainly>> The temperature is hovering around 84 degrees since placing the powerheads back in the aquarium. <<As does mine this time of year...not a big concern, though you don't want it creeping up much higher>> I've ordered small fans to install in the hood in hopes of reducing it down to around 76-78 degrees. Can I hope to expect this much of a change? <<Not likely...a 2-4 degree drop is probably more realistic>> I realize this may be a guessing game, but if I need to take further measures I'd like to start ASAP. <<Lets see what the fans accomplish and go from there. You're near the upper limit on temperature, but the addition of the fans should give you a few more "degrees" of breathing space. If the fans you are adding are simply to "exhaust" the hood then do consider adding a small "clip-on" or similar fan to "blow directly across the surface of the water" to speed evaporative cooling>> Secondly, I had a bag of Chemipure break in my sump. <<Hate it when that happens>> I've cleaned out the sump, but not before the carbon fragments got into the tank. <<Mmm, yes...teeny bits they are>> They're appearing in patches on my substrate. <Not a concern. The carbon will simply act/perform as any other porous material in the long term by colonizing with bacteria...very much like your live rock/sand does>> I'm cleaning this out as best as I can, but with 120 lbs of live rock it's difficult to get it all. <<No doubt>> Should I remove the rock and meticulously clean the substrate? <<I wouldn't>> Can this be harmful to the aquatic life? <<Nothing to be concerned with here>> Last question, as far as stocking is concerned, I'd like to gradually add the following life to the aquarium and was hoping you could provide your opinion. <<Well Rick, when it comes to "stocking" I definitely have opinions...and am always glad to share>> Two Ocellaris clowns (could you recommend the proper anemone?) <<Mmm, trouble here right off the bat my friend. I strongly recommend you DON'T acquire an anemone until you get a bit more experience under your belt. It's not that these creatures are "delicate doilies" so much (some few species are quite hardy), but they do present their own special challenges...and risks...that are very easily/often overlooked. For certain you don't want to introduce an anemone to this very new system...and certainly you don't want to mix this animal with other cnidarians. The clowns will do fine without a host anemone...but if you really want to attempt this animal I recommend you spend time reading/researching and decide if you're capable and committed to providing the correct environment for the long-term health of these virtually immortal creatures>> 1-Long Nose Butterfly, 1-coral banded or fire shrimp, <<The fire (blood) shrimp gets my vote...less destructive of the two and "may" facilitate as a biological parasitic control (cleaner). The coral-banded shrimp will likely devour/destroy most all the emergent life on your live rock>> 1-Orchid Dottyback, 1-Coral Beauty, 1-Blue Girdled Angel, <<As a fish mix, these are fine. If you did acquire an anemone, the butterfly and the angels would likely prove incompatible>> and 1-small puffer/Toby (something in the Canthigaster genus). <<Also would not be compatible with the anemone>> I'm leery about the Toby as some sources state that they can be "fin nippers". <<Not can..."are"...and more than just fins! Tobies are generally hardy/interesting aquarium specimens, but they need to be housed with "agile" fishes to avoid getting nipped...would also pose a threat to many/most crustaceans/inverts>> Can you recommend a species that tends to be less aggressive? <<Mmm, the "nipping" behavior is indicative of the genus (most all "puffer" genera) as far as I'm aware>> In lieu of the puffer I was also considering a Hawkfish (Flame or Long Nose). Any advice you can provide would be appreciated and not taken lightly. << Ah yes, well Grasshopper...Wait/study-up for now on all the commonly kept/available anemones, and go with the Hawkfish if you're uncertain about the Toby (either species of hawk is fine, though I really like Oxycirrhites typus...this species would also be less risk to the shrimp)>> Thanks again. Rick in DE <<Always welcome my friend. Eric Russell in SC>> Stocking A 24 Gallon Nano 9/4/06 Greetings from Australia, WWM crew. <And to you from Michigan, USA> Many thanks for the site, I have gained valuable knowledge and saved myself from disaster which (most probably) would have occurred had I launched into the reef keeping hobby unprepared. <Well said.> I like to think of myself as an accomplished freshwater enthusiast, having kept various tropicals and most recently, have been keeping myself busy with African cichlids. Now, my attention as turned to saltwater; specifically (much to your dismay, no doubt) 'Nano reef' displays. My question relates to the stocking of my small 24 gallon tank; I would like to keep a few corals in it and having read various articles on the matter, have come to the conclusion that soft corals are my best bet. <Agreed, much less chemical aggression here.> There is currently 3kg (6.6 lbs) of live rock in the tank, and it has been there for about a week now. The tank is still cycling and I intend putting another 3kg next week, then gradually increasing the live rock load until I am satisfied with the aquascape and the tank is stable. The sand is crushed marble, roughly 1' deep. I'm also keen on anemones, however realize keeping one would probably be an irresponsible choice, and have decided against it. <Very much in agreement.> I don't trust the employees of my LFS (too business oriented for my taste) and feel I cannot rely on them for decent advice on stocking my tank. Can you offer a hardy mix of (preferably common) specimens suitable for a small setup such as mine? I intend on keeping a small fish in there, along with various helpful invertebrates. <I'd probably go with an assortment of mushroom corals, some xenia and star polyps.> Many thanks, <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Sebastian Star Polyp Color Loss... Allelopathy in a crowded, small, mis-stocked Nano 9/2/06 Hello Crew: <Richard> I am writing to you concerning a very odd star polyp issue. First, my tank: 10Gal Nano - 2 inch sand bed, 17lbs live rock - 8 months old 55 Gal Power Filter (set 1/4 on) - run one side with carbon constantly 1 20 Gal Power Head Heat at 78 - fluctuates 77-79 96Watt Aqualight 50/50 PC Weekly - Biweekly 1 gallon water change C-Balance every 2-3 days <With testing...> Liquid Calcium every 2-3 days (alternate from C-Balance) PH Buffer 2 times/week <Dittos> Ammonia - 0 Nitrite - 0 Nitrate ~0 PH 8.2-8.3 Calcium - 300-350 (a bit low but it just seems that this tank stays low) Phosphate - 0 Mates: -Percula Clown Fish -Linckia Star Fish (Didn't realize at the time that 10 gal is too small - I think he is hungry and appears to be shrinking, but I'm cycling a 37 that he can move into soon). <Still too small...> -Blue Maxima Clam 2" -Teardrop Clam 2" <... these Tridacnids are misplaced here> -3 Blue Hermits -4 Astrea Snails -Xenia - 2 types -Button Polyps - many colors -Ricordea - 3 heads -Mushrooms -Toadstool Coral )Getting big now! -Star Polyps I feed the clown flakes - he will eat out of my hands which is cool. I feed DTs twice per week for the clams, and feed frozen Cyclop-eeze to the star polyps 2 times/week. Absolutely everything is the tank is growing at a great rate (except the starfish). Now to my question: The star polyps were given to me by one of the guys at my LFS (just tore off a piece growing on the sand!). The polyps have white centers with long green tentacles. The underling color is brown. Ever since I've had them, they have grown at an amazing rate. <... dangerous in such a small volume> They have never had any problems opening fully and continue to grow like crazy. However, over the past 3 months, the green color has been disappearing from the tentacles (leaving them brown). Now the green color is nearly completely gone. I read one forum article where a respondent stated that it may be that if the animal isn't being fed enough that the symbiotic algae was taking over the feeding chore - providing energy for the coral and as a result, changing the pigment through sheer reproductive growth. This seemed to make since and I increased feedings of Cyclop-eeze to no avail. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks for the great articles and FAQs. Rich in Holly Springs NC. <You need to invest in a much larger system... Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/polypcompfaqs.htm and the linked files above. You have a classic case of allelopathy going on here... will result in a crash... soon. Bob Fenner> Percula Pair Going Through Divorce? Small, mis-mixed Cnid. system, Tube Anemone... 9/2/06 Afternoon, <Yawnnnn! AM here now> Thank you for being a resource for me! I've searched through the FAQ's and Daily Q&A for an answer but I've only found bits and pieces relative to my clowns' situation rather than the whole story. They've been a pair for nearly 8 months, 6 of which in my 12gallon Nano tank with an appropriate watt Halide looming over it. The environment is littered with coral -- neon green star polyps, leather coral, devil's hands, bubble coral, frog spawn -- and presently has a single tube anemone. <Too crowded... and a Cerianthus? Toxic> My tank is not a good supporter of anemone's such as carpets, bulb, and long tentacles, or rather, I'M not a good supporter of them since they don't live longer than a couple months. <... agreed... small marine volumes are unsuitable for actinarians period> My guess is a lacking food supply since my clowns don't feed their anemone like the clowns I've had in the past. I'm now trying the turkey baster with brine method. <Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/tubeanem.htm and the linked files above> The problem (aside from my inability to keep an anemone besides the tube anemone) is that my pair aren't much of a pair anymore. When I had my last anemone -- which I just netted out of the tank today and tossed to the garbage men, <...> my pair started going through the mating motions -- which I identified by the smaller having the little seizure spasms near the larger. Now that the anemone is gone the two aren't getting along. The smaller will chase the larger into a corner, leaving the larger gasping at the top of the tank. <... too crowded... no where to get away... the cnidarians, incompatible, warring with each other... will take out any/all fishes> I'm worried because I absolutely adore these two clowns, <If you do... then grant them a decent habitat... Please... Read re the needs of these fish, provide them... A feeling will not support their health... only action, with knowledge can. Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clownfis.htm and the linked files above> they're incredibly hardy and eat like triggers, and now that they're fighting as they are I'm pretty much just waiting for one to get too stressed out and end up being an offering to the porcelain gods. They're about an inch and a half and inch and three quarters long, the larger being thicker; they're a bright orange with three white stripes connected by two large black patches. The colors are immaculate and I haven't seen another like them in my LFS so I'm unable to attempt to find a like male to replace the one who's pissy now. Thank you for your time! Ian. <Translate your sentiment to focus, attention in gathering useful information re the life in your care. Read! Bob Fenner> Life suitable for my small SW tank - 09/01/06 Greetings from Australia, WWM crew. <Hi there!> Many thanks for the site, I have gained valuable knowledge and saved myself from disaster which (most probably) would have occurred had I launched into the reef keeping hobby unprepared. I like to think of myself as an accomplished freshwater enthusiast, having kept various tropicals and most recently, have been keeping myself busy with African cichlids. Now, my attention as turned to saltwater; specifically (much to your dismay, no doubt) 'Nano reef' displays. <That's OK - a bit harder, but I've succeeded, and with time and effort you will too!> My question relates to the stocking of my small 24 gallon tank; I would like to keep a few corals in it and having read various articles on the matter, have come to the conclusion that soft corals are my best bet. There is currently 3kg (6.6 lbs) of live rock in the tank, and it has been there for about a week now. The tank is still cycling and I intend putting another 3kg next week, then gradually increasing the live rock load until I am satisfied with the aquascape and the tank is stable. The sand is crushed marble, roughly 1' deep. I'm also keen on anemones, however realize keeping one would probably be an irresponsible choice, and have decided against it. I don't trust the employees of my LFS (too business oriented for my taste) and feel I cannot rely on them for decent advice on stocking my tank. Can you offer a hardy mix of (preferably common) specimens suitable for a small setup such as mine? I intend on keeping a small fish in there, along with various helpful invertebrates. <You can do many things with a Nano tank, but remember - moderation is the key here. First make sure you add enough live rock, it really does make a difference. Your soft coral choice is a good one - you can also add some Zoas/mushrooms. As for fish - make sure you keep it small - in size and numbers. Some gobies would work (clown, citron, neon, redbanded so on.), also Firefish are very common for tanks this size and prove to be very peaceful (just make sure other tankmates are also peaceful or these guys won't eat!.) A few blennies are also OK, and even a pair of clownfish if you wish, just don't then add much more in livestock. Here you have many choices, just research what you want and have fun with it!! Enjoy! There is an excellent article on WWM which will give you the basics. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nanoreefsysart.htm Read up! Jen S.> Many thanks, Sebastian Where do I start? Nanos, Coral, Skimmers.... 8/31/06 Hi, <Hello there> I am a very frequent visitor of WWM, and have been visiting almost daily for the past year or so, to read the freshwater FAQ's and of course, seeing the Pic of the Day. Why do I visit daily? Because it is an awesome site!!! <Heeeee! Thanks> Now, I have been interested in Saltwater from the beginning, but have never been umm... brave enough to do so. I have a 26 gallon community tank, 2.5 gallon guppy setup (failed breeding setup), a 55 gallon Cardinal/ Ram community tank, (all planted) <Nice> a 20 gallon Pleco/ frog tank, and my prize possession- a 125 Planted Discus Tank (8 med- large Discus who are happy and healthy and breeding thanks to the WWM crew) So that's 1..2..3..4..5 Tanks. May not seem like much, but I am still in high school (junior) <!> and my parents are not my greatest fans! LOL (Direct Quote from Mom: "Fish are icky, smelly and slimy" <Heeeee! Can be!> What cracks me up though, is that every time a guest comes over, my collection is the first thing they show off....go figure. <I get the same for my gardening efforts...> Well, I figured, if I can do discus, I may be able to handle saltwater.( I may also pursue a career in this area (biologist of some sort) (not sure)) <Mmm, not too soon to "do a stint" as a retail clerk... even start gearing up for part time self-employment work in the Aquarium Service industry...> Problem is, my parents have banned me from keeping more tanks. Any suggestions on how to convince them??? <Mmm... perhaps an inquiry as to their specific concerns... Is this principally to do with their wanting you to focus on your studies? Perhaps a pledge/contract to excel will satisfy them here... A consideration for costs? Here's where the part time work might come in... Maybe there's not enough room, or electrical power in the house? I'd ask them directly> I want to set up a "Nano-reef". My tank will be the AGA 7 Gallon Glass Mini Bow. I have been looking, reading, and learning (hopefully) about saltwater tanks for about the last week or so, on nano-reefs.com, WWM, and a forum devoted to 7 Gallon Mini Bows, just to name a few. Problem is, I am overwhelmed by all of the info (as I am sure you know, there is quite a bit out there). But, I believe I have a grasp on quite a few things. I apologize for the length of this email, but I feel you should be well-informed of my situation. I plan on having a "natural" tank of the following specs: 7 gallon glass mini-bow Live rock Live sand bed corals (numerous types) <Careful here> "clean up" crew a pair of true Percula clowns <Mmm... these really need much more room> Now for the questions: 1.) How many pounds of live rock should I purchase, and what type? <A few to about ten... S. Pacific...> 2.) How many pounds of sand should I purchase <Ten or so...> 3.) Lighting: The tank comes supplies with a 14 watt 16" long fluorescent bulb. Is this sufficient for keeping corals? <Mmm... not many species can/will thrive under such low illumination> I do not plan on keeping anemones. 4.) If not, how can I achieve the proper amount (what is the proper amount?) <Changing out for a small CF unit likely> 5.) What should my clean-up crew consist of? (I want shrimp, crabs, and snails) Can you recommend some species? <Some mix of small snails... specifically here...> 6.) Corals: Could you recommend some low- med light species that stay small/ grow slowly? <Bits of small species of Alcyoniids are what I'd start with... trading frags through a club highly recommended.> Also, how are corals attached to live rock? (similar to java fern on driftwood? lol) How do they consume energy? I read something about micro algae. Do I need to feed them? <All posted on WWM...> (Do I need to add any chemicals?) <Likely not... just regular water changes.> 7.) Do I need a protein skimmer? I have received conflicting information, would prefer not to use one though. <Would be a good idea to have/use a small one> 8.) Can I use a regular HOB Power filter? What media should be kept in it? <Can, and posted> Can I place a heater in the filter? <I would not. I'd put this in the little tank> 9.) What should the salinity be of this type of setup? <1.025... matched carefully with new water> I found an already mixed solution called Nutri-SeaWater (_www.naturesocean.com_ ( http://www.naturesocean.com) ) It has a pH of 8.3, is this good? <Synthetic would/will be better> More importantly, it has a salinity of 1.027, is this a good level? <Too high> 10.) Top-off: Can I top off with Distilled water? Or is RO better? <I'd use RO, but can use distilled> (Can easierly (is that a word?) obtain Distilled) 11.) Water changes: I plan on 1 gallon a week with the Nutri-SeaWater. 12.) What is the best temperature for this setup? <Upper seventies F.... higher can be trouble> Umm I think that's about it.... For now. I want to keep this as simple as possible. I really truly appreciate your time and effort, I apologize for the length again, but I want to be successful. Do you have any books that you could recommend to me? <John Tullock's "Natural Reef Aquariums"> I would gladly purchase them. Thank you! Anthony <Be chatting, Bob Fenner> Anemone . . . Outta Control!/Anemone Systems - 08/26/2006 Hi Gang! <Hello Thomas> Thanks in advance for answering my question. <You're welcome.> Stats first: 24 Aqua Cube 16 lbs LR, 5 lbs LS, 10 lbs crushed substrate 79 degrees. Amon = 0, Nitrite = 0, Nitrates > 20. Calcium ± 300. Weekly water changes of 4 gallons. 8 months established. <Lighting?> 1 Yellow Tail Damsel, 1 Coral Banded Shrimp, 1 Sally Footed <Foot> Crab, 1 tiny blue crab (I mean TINY) I had a large blue crab, but he jumped ship last week. Contemplating his replacement. 2 Clarkii Clowns, mated pair (that took a long time - she chased him for months, now he lives happily on the top edge of the Anemone <Anemone>) with hosted Sebae Anemone. My problem: The Anemone has gotten HUGE. It is gigantic - over 18 inches wide! It's in the back of the tank, and it's taking over. It opens up fully during the day and then shrinks at night. I feel as though it's too big for the tank. Is there any thing I can do to it? Or should I just be happy it's alive and thriving in an aqua cube and leave it alone? <You're not going to be happy too much longer. The 24 gallon cube is much too small for housing anemones, especially this species. Sebaes can grow up to 1' 8" under ideal aquarium conditions, and, the Sebae Anemone is one of the more difficult anemones to keep in captivity for any length of time. I suggest you find a better home for this anemone. Do read here and linked files above. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm> Thanks! <You're welcome. In future queries, do cap letters that need to be capped and do a spelling/grammar check. We do not have the time to correct queries before posting. Thank you, James (Salty Dog)> Thomas 50 gallon Hagan Tank, lighting, SW, reading
8/25/06 I have a 50 gallon Hagen tank (it is 36 x 16 x 20 in
height). I have live rock, fish, anemone, mushroom,
leather, polyps. I would like to get a clam, bubble coral,
sun coral. <... trouble with this mix... Please search WWM re each
species System, Compatibility...> What type of lighting
should I get? <... Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm
Scroll down to the bottom, the tray with links to marine aquarium
lighting articles and FAQs> We have a canopy to house the lighting
system. We like the look of a finished top! <Me too> I
like the light that a metal halide emits. But I understand
they emit a great deal of heat and will cost us a small fortune in
electricity! <Possibly> We were debating getting a
power compact lighting system (2 x 96 watts plus 3 blue LEDs) or a 1 x
175 MH, 2 x 15w CF, 2 blue led. Which option should we
go with based on our wish list of clams, bubble coral and sun coral?
Thanks for the information! Kimberly <A few more factors to take
into consideration... as you'll soon know... Enjoy the reading. Bob
Fenner> Leather corals in a Nano 8/24/06 Hello crew, <Jennifer> I'm sorry to bother you with this question, but I've been getting mixed answers everywhere else I turn. I know I need to get rid of something in my tank, but I'm just not sure what, and what I can house safely. Please know that I have read your sections on Nano stocking and also all of the articles on Alcyoniids. <Good> So here goes....I have a 12 gallon with 12 lbs of live rock. Cleanup crew consists of some blue legged hermit crabs and some reef-safe snails (can't remember what kind they are). I have an Ocellaris and a seahorse. I also have a small frag of star polyps attached to some of my rocks and a couple of small bunches of Caulerpa. Now for the part you're going to shake your head at. I have a toadstool and also a Sinularia. <As long as they're small, you're diligent re regular maintenance...> Everything in my aquarium seems happy and healthy. My temp is at 78, sg 1.024, ammonia and nitrites are 0, nitrates are 5ppm. Calcium is around 450, and iodine is around .06. My pH is 8.4, and Alk is at 10. I have PC lighting with 4.5 watts per gallon. I do 20% water changes twice a week. My leathers have those feathery hydroids that live in/on them, <Hard on your fishes> and that is my main concern. With my tank being so small, when these hydroids extend they will pretty much spread across my whole aquarium. I've seen my clown fish get stung by one of them once. I also know allelopathy (spelling?) could be an issue down the road. <Is> My LFS said I would be fine as long as none of my corals were touching each other. <Mmm, no... still can/do "touch" chemically> I'm running activated carbon through my filter and also a PolyFilter all of the time. I've tried manually removing the hydroids, but they either just keep coming back, or I'm not successful at removing the entire thing in the first place. The toadstool has numerous hydroids, the Sinularia has 2 that I've seen. Do I need to get rid of the toadstool and the Sinularia, or can I just get rid of the toadstool and keep the Sinularia. <Up to you...> My seahorse does like to hitch onto the corals sometimes. Is that bad for them? <If not excessive...> I don't want my tank to be bare looking, but I also want to do what's best for it. If I have to get rid of both of my corals, can I get some Zoanthid frags to cover the rocks and spruce it up a bit, or will they eventually wreak chemical warfare also? <I would not house Zoanthids in a system with fishes as this> I don't want my tank to be packed full. I just want it to have a little bit of color and beauty with smart choices. Any suggestions please? <To keep on doing as you are... with a mind to having frag the Soft Corals in time... removal of the hydroids/efforts> Thanks for all your time and knowledge that you put into this site. I have found many answers to my questions just by reading your archives. <Thank you for writing, sharing. Bob Fenner> Can gods make tanks that are too small to illuminate Anemones properly? 8/23/06 Hi <Hello> My name is Trevor and I was wondering how much lighting I need for a 5 gallon 10 in. high minibow tank. I will have a bulb tipped sea anemone in it. <Not for long likely...> I'm pretty sure the 15 watt bulb that comes with it is not enough. Please respond as soon as possible <Very hard to keep such a small marine system stable "enough" Trevor... particularly for animals such as Anemones. Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm and the linked files above. Trying to apply sufficient light/ing here will create heat/temperature vacillations that will... Bob Fenner> Nano- No-No? Centropyge In a small Tank? 8/14/06 Hi Bob (and WWM Crew), <Hi there! Scott F. here today!> Like most, long time reader, first time poster. Couple of questions I was hoping to get answered in the one mail :-) <Sure...no extra charge!> I am trying to decide on the suitability of dwarf angels in "Nano" tanks. There are a many different opinions but I have found consistent quality advice from WWM that has helped me. Id like to run over relevant specs to see what you think as far as suitability. I have a 75 ltr (~16gl) (54cm H x 50cm Lx 35cmW). I have a sump which has a refugium with a 5-6" sand bed it contains appx 15-20ltrs more of water. My sump also has a Tunze Nano skimmer (model 9003). I have approximately 10-15kg of live rock. I was wondering if the tank has the capacity to house a dwarf angel most likely a Flame/Cherub/Coral Beauty as they are readily available in Australia. <well...I have to be honest. I think that Nano-tanks can be great systems, if managed carefully (and it sounds like yours is!). However, I'd be really hesitant to recommend a Centropyge in such a small system for a few reasons. First, they do need some "territory". Second, they can become highly aggressive towards other fishes in a small tank. Also, all of these guys might simply outgrow the tank, having a greater need for physical space than their diminutive size suggests. I would not keep a Dwarf Angel in anything less than a 40 gallon tank, and then only one of the really "small models", like the aforementioned Cherub or maybe C. fisheri.> Currently the tank has xenia/fluffy Corallimorph/small hammer/zoo's. I have a green BTA which is host to 2x clowns. <Ohh...then I would not even consider the Centropyge.> I try to get the bristleworms that are relatively large in size out of the tank when I can. I check periodically in the middle of the night for signs of them, and most of the time there usually isn't much night time activity of the worms. They seem to be most active when I feed the clowns. I was wondering if there is a long term concern, and a drastic need to eradicate them from my tank as it is relatively small. <I'm not overly concerned about them, unless you see obvious signs of damage to your inverts. I see them as more beneficial than detrimental, myself. Do keep them in check if you notice problems.> Cheers for any advice you can provide I know my questions are broad :-) Mark. <No problem, Mark. You sound like you're really on top of things in your tank! I would definitely avoid the Centropyge, but keep doing what you're doing otherwise! Much continued success to you! Regards, Scott F.> Goby Symbiosis and LPS... Nano stkg., Trachyphyllia sys. 8/13/06 Hey, guys. I've got a question about shrimp-goby pairs and LPS corals. I am planning a Nano-reef in a 12 gallon NanoCube. I'm thinking of keeping a Randall's Shrimp Goby and a pistol shrimp (tiger, if I can find one) and a Firefish (maybe, not decided yet) in as the non-coral inhabitants. LPS corals interest me, especially Trachyphyllia and the "Closed Brains" of the Favia and Favites genus, especially the so-called "pineapple brains." I know the Trachyphyllia need to stay on the substrate, but I'm worried about the shrimp's digging covering up the Trachyphyllia. Do they have the ability to shed sediment? <To some extent, yes... but I would "mount" (set upon) the Trachyphyllia on a short (substrate depth) section of cut PVC pipe to elevate it.> Also, I still can't figure out whether the "Closed Brains" should be placed on the rocks or the substrate... <Faviids are almost always found on the latter in the wild...> If on the sand, would they be able to shed the sand from the digging shrimp? Thanks for the help. <Do be careful re Nanos period... not stable... on average all crash more than once a year... Bob Fenner> Stocking Small, But Thinking Big!
8/2/06 Hello WWM Crew: <Hi there! Scott F. here today!> I have a 46 gallon
tank which has 50 pounds of live rock. As far as equipment goes it has a
Remora (h o t) skimmer, a Magnum 350 canister which I run carbon on it
and change weekly with my 10% water change and 2 power heads for
circulation. <Sounds great to me!> The specs. are ammonia 0, nitrate 0
and nitrite 0. Sg. 1.022 ph. 8.3 and temperature 80. For livestock, I
have 1- Royal Gramma 1-Cleaner Shrimp 1-Peppermint Shrimp 2-Snails
and 3- small Hermit Crabs. The tank has been running for 6 months and
the Gramma has been in the tank for the last 2 months. My question is
could I add 3-Blue Reef Chromis? And to finish off my stocking maybe a
small peaceful Wrasse a few months down the line? <The three Chromis
would be about it, in my opinion. I suppose that you could keep a small
Halichoeres species wrasse, but I'd be cautious about that addition.
Even though your tank is 46 gallons, the capacity when filled with rock
and sand is quite a bit less, so do consider that when stocking.> Any
suggestions would be of great help. You have helped me in the past and
look forward to your words of wisdom on this occasion as well. Thank
you, Mike.
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