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SPS Lighting/Growing Corals 9/14/10 -
9/17/10 Re: Less Problematic Large Angel In SPS Dominated Reefs 9/4/06 James at al., Thanks for your reply. Trying to obtain all the info I can get on this issue before I decide, I've been re-reading your "angel compatibility FAQ", and noticed one of your crew answers that, somehow, I missed before. When asked the top three large angels he'd choose for a reef, on a "blind decision", Bob Fenner answered: "<Okay... Pomacanthus annularis, Genicanthus species of any kind you like, Chaetodonoplus mesoleucos... my choices. Bob Fenner>. The Genicanthus spp. is easy to understand, but I've been wondering why the P. annularis. Specially in number one. Is it because of a specific diet or behaviour that is distinct from the other Pomacanthus? <I don't believe that Bob recommended these fish as "safe" reef dwellers, just the ones he would choose "if" he had to make a choice. The annularis will nip at base of sessile invertebrates including corals. They are also known to pick/nip on tridacnid clams.> I did not consider the P. Annularis before, because I had the impression it would be similar to the P. Imperator (which I prefer) as regards its "reef safeness", but this statement made me look at it with new eyes... And if the Annularis is less "Russian roulette" than the ones I've been considering, I may opt for it. <If you MUST have an angel, I would go with Bob's suggestions keeping in mind that none are totally safe.> Regards, <And to you. James (Salty Dog)> João Coral Lighting 8/21/06 Hi gang, great site it's been a source of information for me for many years. <Glad you enjoy/learn.> I am in the process of planning out a new 125 gallon SPS reef. I've had a 55 gallon Zoa tank set up for the last 2 years and I've been very successful with it and now I'd like to upgrade to something a little more challenging. That being said, I have a few questions on lighting. I had initially planned to go with 3 250watt MH HQI (10000k) and also use 220 watts of VHO 20000k for some additional color. However, I was told that I'd need to go with 3 400watt MH HQI for Acro frags. <Who told you that, Edison?> I question this; it seems like an ungodly amount of light for a tank of this depth and I worry it would overwhelm even the most demanding corals and I wanted to get your thoughts on it. <Three 175 MH's should work fine providing they are not pendant lights.> Second, I plan to use my old 55 as a fuge with a remote DSB and would like to place some of my more colorful Zoa colonies in the SPS tank (probably more towards the bottom) for additional color. I run activated charcoal regularly to help maintain water clarity and I skim aggressively, with that said, do you see an issue with the zoa's in a SPS tank? <I'd filter with Chemi-Pure in this regard. You will have some chemical aggression taking place here and we want to minimize the chemical content in the water. If you are going to mix corals, stay away from the potent types like Galaxy, Elegance, etc. Do search our site and others for Allelopathy/Chemical Aggression.> Thanks, <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)> John SPS collection business 8/21/06 Dear Bob and crew, <Alan> I'm thinking of starting an exclusive Acropora collecting business to supply to the trade. I only wish to collect Acroporas from the wild by fragging a few branches from a colony and gluing them unto rocks for sale in order to minimize impact on ecosystem. <Mmm... can't really be done this way... need to collect colonies, keep them in captive conditions... some time (months) later frag them... Too hard to make the transition otherwise> I suppose this will generate faster returns rather than having an aquaculture facility which requires more overhead cost and time. <...> Do you think this is viable in the long run? <Nope> Any words of wisdom? Thanks a lot. Best regards, Lee <Keep studying, dreaming, planning... Bob Fenner> Lighting/SPS Corals 7/24/06 Great site.......you have helped me greatly in the past. One quick question. I have a 100g tank with 2 65w 10,000K bulbs and 2 Actinic 65w bulbs. Can I grow SPS corals with this lighting, <No> Or do I need MH bulbs? Please let me know and if I need MH bulbs, which ones do you recommend? <If you tell me your tank dimensions, I can better answer your question.> Thanks, <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Jeromy Sharks and Corals 7/19/06 Hello. <Hi there> I have a 300 gallon shark tank with 2 young banded bamboo shark in it that hatched at my home. <Neat> I have a very large cave structure that is cemented together in the center of the tank that they sleep in and prowl around. <Good layout> The rest of the tank is open water. I was wondering since my rock work is so stable and I can't even topple it over if that I could keep some SPS corals on the top of the cave close to the surface to dress the tank up a bit. <Mmm, maybe...> I would choose corals that don't sting of course. <Not really much of an issue...> Would this be a problem? <Likely will have problems with water quality for the SPS (need high biomineral, alkalinity content), perhaps easily knocked off the rock at night...> In the wild they live around the stuff so I figured it would be ok. Any input would be much appreciated. Thanks. Justin. <Worth trying. Bob Fenner> Feeding the Reef Tank 7/4/06 Hi there....sorry for asking 2 questions in one day. <No worries.> I'll make this short. <Awesome.> What product do you recommend as food for SPS corals? <Large refugia is great, other than that variety...specifically?; Read this: http://forum.marinedepot.com/Topic20086-9-1.aspx .> Or personally, what product have you used for SPS food and have had great results? <Google: Eric "Hugo" Borneman Recipe.> Thank you <Adam J.> Lighting For SPS....Buying the right light - 5/17/2006 Hello crew, <Hi Tim> First off I want to thank you guys for taking the time to look at this e-mail. I am trying to get the right light for my reef tank. I am planning on upgrading to metal halide lighting. My display is a 75 gallon tank that measures 48" long x 18" wide x 18" deep (from the sand). I already have a couple Acropora frags as well as two Stylophora pistillata specimens. This is the kind of coral which I primarily wish to house. I plan on using balanced lighting, most probably in the form of both 10,000K and 20,000K bulbs. I was looking at a fixture that has two 250 watt HQI and one 150 watt HQI and assume that this would be overkill as it comes out to well over 8 watts/gallon. <More than needed.> Another fixture I saw had two 150 watt HQI and one 70 watt HQI. This comes out to almost 5 watts/gallon which I believe is close to a good target value. Is this correct. Will this second fixture be sufficient for the more light hungry Acropora that I wish to grow? <Tim, with your 18" deep tank, I'd feel more comfortable with three 150 HQI's for the light loving corals you intend on keeping.> Also, I was wondering if you guys have any preference in fixture brands? <I think Current USA makes a nice fixture for the money. In bulb brands? <I like Ushio lamps.> I know that some metal halide bulbs are clearly better for gardening and was wondering if the same holds true in reefkeeping. <Some brands such as Ushio have a more accurate color temperature and a little more intensity. You may want to check this company out. They carry the new Odyssea light fixtures that I've heard are nicely built and a bargain. There is an error on this link, they state three 175 HQI but I'm sure they are 150's as I have never saw 175 HQI's. See here... http://www.aquatraders.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=275 Do keep in mind I have had no experience dealing with Aqua Traders.> Thanks for the suggestions. Thanks for the help, <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Tim SPS Accident - 5/8/2006 Hey everyone, I had a little accident with an Acropora in my tank. I broke off four 1 inch long pieces - fragging by accident I guess. I have always wanted to propagate my own coral to become more self sufficient in the hobby. I have some small cylindrical bases for the coral and want to use reef putty to connect the frags. My question is in regards to the base of the frag being slightly buried in the putty. I need to get at least a couple of millimetres into the putty to get the frags to stand. Is this alright or should I try something else. Cheers Marc <Marc - Yes, it is OK to stick the frag in. If it grows, the base will eventually cover the putty. With new frags, it is usually best to try to duplicate the same lighting and flow they had before they broke off for best results. However, with a brand new frag, you might want to start the frag lower in the tank and then move it higher over the course of several days. Best of luck, Roy> Arothron and SPS - 5/2/2006 Hello All, <<Hello Craig.>> I am interesting in purchasing an all black Arothron nigropunctatus to place in a 200 gallon tank (after a vigorous 4 week quarantine period) with my other fishes. <<Sounds nice, and it's nice to hear QT!>> All my other fishes are reef safe, and my bioload will not be upset by this fish. <<OK<> Once he has been acclimated to his new diet (four daily mixed pellet feedings of Thera+A and Vita-Diet from two different auto feeders; 3 times weekly homemade frozen with Mysis, Cyclop-eeze, Natu-rose, Spirulina, Selcon, vita-chem, Nori, krill, plankton, squid and clams; live Mysis and copepods from refugium as well), I would give him at least 6 months to love his new diet. <<Do be sure not to over feed, and offer plenty of crunchy foods to wear down his dental plates.>> Then comes the idea that I have been playing around with--adding two or three different colored plating species of Montipora capricornis and a nice yellow specimen of Porites cylindrica (I do have the proper lighting and more than enough water movement). I would appreciate any comments on chances of success, or modifications to improve on any chances of success. I do not have to have these corals, but they are my favorite and it would be great to add them to my tank with all of my marvelous fishes. <<Corals and puffers together is always a gamble. Some will chomp them to bits, others will never touch them. The entire family is quite curious, and will sample/chomp on many things. My best advice to you is to watch closely, and be prepared to choose one or the other, should a problem arise. You may have better luck adding the Arothron after the corals, as to not highlight their addition/existence. Also note that shrimps, bivalves, clams and such will more than likely fall prey to the puffer in no time. All that said, ultimately it is up to the fish how tolerant/intolerant they are, and if you do decide to go this route, it's your job to be prepared to remove the puffer or the corals to other proper accommodations if need be. Good luck my friend!>> Thank you for your comments. I appreciate your time and knowledge. -Craig <<Glad to help. Lisa.>> Chemical Warfare? 4/6/06 I mentioned in my last email that my SPS started showing signs of stress. Their tips started dying. I have a doubt about my anemone, do you think that it can secrete allelopathic substances that can affect the SPS? <I believe that it is entirely possible, which is why I discourage mixing corals and anemones in most systems.> I looked up the archives but I am not sure if this is right or wrong. <I think that the theory is right.> It has been in the tank for 6 months now and once in a while, I lose one or two of my SPS for the same reason, either dying tips or bleaching , but mainly the tips begin to die. <Could certainly be allelopathic competition, or some lapse in environmental conditions.> Do you think it is the anemone? The water chemistry is great, calcium is above 400 and heavy skimming all the time with Euro-reef skimmer, water changes every 2 weeks !! I am confused and I need your help. Thank you. P.S. It is a red, long tentacle anemone. Regards, Ramy Ontario, Canada <Well, Ramy- in the absence of other possibilities (such as environmental lapses), the only theory that I have is that the anemone could be an issue, unless you're looking at some type of disease affecting the coral. My advice is to "specialize", and keep only the coral or the anemone...Hope this helps. Regards, Scott F.>
SPS problem !! 3/29/06 Hi Bob, <Ramy> I had my 150 gal running for a year now, housing only SPS and clams. Everything is fine so far except that one of my favorite Acros started showing the following : The growing tips started to break and are covered with algae. <Yikes!> I can see the polyps extending but not as much as they used to be. I haven't moved this piece from its spot for more than 5 months, same lighting conditions, great water values , nothing else is wrong. So what could have gone wrong ???? <Very likely "just" the unnatural make-up of aquariums at play here... Changing the flow (increasing greatly), introducing some smaller fishes, perhaps switching out some of the live rock... will steer your system back toward where you want it. Bob Fenner> Regards, Ramy, Ontario, Canada. Please Help! -- Mg damage to corals? Sclera. health - 2/28/2006 Hi Crew, <Greg> I hope I am worrying needlessly, but I am concerned I might have an unknown coral predator or a water parameter problem with my 180g reef. My main concern is one Acropora with approximately a pea-sized exposed skeleton near the base of one branch and ½' of skeleton exposed on one tip. A brown mucous-thread-like substance covered the Acropora, with dead tissue trapped in the bottom of this mucous net. I siphoned-off the mucous and dead tissue, cut off the dead tip of one branch, then dispensed a tank water + Lugol's solution over the remaining bare skeletal areas. I just fear that this area of necrosis might be spreading. This Acropora is placed approximately 8 inches from a 7' Crocea clam (which occasionally produces a similar-looking mucous-like 'net' near the byssal opening). So I am unsure if the Acropora coating was from the Crocea or if it was produced by the coral. <Mmmm> Two days prior to this happening I did move a rock that was attached to this Acropora and one tip was broken off the Acropora. This has never been an issue in the past as new flesh would cover the exposed skeleton within a week and new branches would form. Possibly this initial stress is what led to the current tissue necrosis. Current water parameters: Temp=77°F, Salinity=1.024, pH=8.1, alk=3.2 meq/L, Ammonia=0, Nitrite=0, Nitrate~1ppm, Ca=440ppm, PO4={below meas. Limits}, Silicate=0). I did also increase temperature on my heaters from 76°F to 77°F a few days ago. I performed a 32g water change at the same time. A little history'¦ About two weeks ago, I noticed that all of my Montiporas were becoming much lighter in color. I was not overly concerned because they have lightened and darkened in color several times over their 2 years in my tank and they continue to grow well. Although water parameters have always remained within acceptable ranges previously, my salinity dropped from 1.025 to 1.022 <This is a huge difference> over the course of a day just before the Montiporas changed color a few weeks ago. A snail had stuck my makeup water float switch in the 'on' position for a day, flooding my 100g refugium and diluting the water with RO/Kalk mixture. <No fun> My pH measured 8.2 so I was only concerned about the sudden change in salinity (makeup water flows at only 10gpd). I removed 10 gallons of tank water and slowly added 10 gallons of very high salinity water until tank salinity measured 1.023. The following day, I repeated this procedure until the salinity reached 1.024. All fish, corals, clams, other inverts appeared to be unstressed so I assumed that worst case, this might have induced a temporary color change in the Montiporas. <Takes a while to show... weeks, months> Since my alkalinity and pH have always remained near the low end of acceptable (pH=8.0-8.1, alk=2.5-3 meq/L) despite using a Kalkwasser reactor for top-off and the addition of Na2CO3 and NaCO3, I bought a Mg test kit to determine if a low Mg level was partially responsible for low alkalinity (Ca=440 ppm). Mg measured 1,140 ppm <Close enough...> so I mixed 10 teaspoons of Seachem Reef Mg in 1 pint of RO water and dripped this into the pump intake in my refugium. An hour later I repeated this. According to Seachem's label, I would have needed to repeat this process a few more times to reach the desired 1,300 ppm but I noticed another Acropora (near the return line) with mucous-like threads waving from its polyps. I was concerned that I might have changed the Mg level too quickly so I made no further changes to the tank for the next two days. <Good> I did continue to noticed these 'mucous threads' waving from the Acropora polyps at times. This is a different Acropora than the one that is currently displaying tissue necrosis. Could dosing Mg in this way cause tissue necrosis in Acropora? <Possibly a factor, not likely "the"> This particular coral is not in direct flow of the pump return line. One Montipora has completely bleached (although polyps are visibly extended) but I did move this coral to a lower light area of the tank when it initially began to bleach. All other corals (4 Acropora, 1 birdsnest, 1 open brain, 1 pineapple coral, hammer coral, zoos, star polyps, mushrooms, Alveopora) appear to be doing well. Even the Acropora that had previously produced the mucous-like threads now appears normal. All inverts appear unstressed as well. What should I do about the Acropora with the tissue necrosis -- is there a way to reverse this spread? <You likely have> If the necrotic area continues to grow, I assume I should frag the coral to save the remainder -- correct? <An approach. I would move this colony to another system, or even shallow, brightly lit sump first myself> Do you think this in contagious (e.g. should I be doing anything to protect the other corals in my tank)? Unfortunately I do not have a picture to send yet, but I can follow-up when I return home tonight if needed. Thank you in advance for your help!!! --Greg <I doubt you have a pathogen at play here. Very likely the bit of trouble you've observed is/was due to the change n spg... I would not over-react here. Bob Fenner> Re: Please Help! -- Mg damage to corals? - 3/1/2006 Bob, <Greg> Thank you so much for your input (or at least putting my mind at ease) -- and for taking the time to read my email. I will continue to watch this Acropora, but no additional skeletal areas appear to be exposed tonight. <Good> I refer all of my fellow reefers to the WWM search for answers to their questions. You and the WWM crew offer an invaluable service to aquarists! --Greg <We're very glad to share. Bob Fenner> Give Those Acros Some Breathing Room! (Coral Placement) 2/2/06 Hi! <Hiya! Scott F. at the keyboard tonight!> I just had a quick question regarding SPS coral placement. How far should most Acropora be placed from each other? I do prune them and make sure they do not touch each other. Is a distance of 3-4 inches enough? Thank you so much! Sheen <Well, Sheen- everyone has an opinion on this one, but I would allow almost 6" plus between specimens. I've done it closer, and trust me- given time and the proper conditions, they'll still eventually grow into each other! Try at least 6", be patient, and you'll be rewarded with larger, healthier, and more colorful corals...Assuming, of course, that you can provide for their other environmental needs! Best of luck to you! Regards, Scott F.> SPS lighting 1/30/06 Crew-
<Craig> Quick question: I am planning on putting some SPS about
halfway up the rockwork in a 300 gallon tank (31" high). I am also
planning on trying different lighting schemes throughout the tank. I
would like to leave some recessed lighting on the ends so that private
entreats exist for more reclusive fish to feel comfortable. Since I do
not want the whole thing lit up like the midday sun, I am only planning
on putting 400 watts of 20K metal halide on the middle third of the
tank (a length of about 32"). If the SPS are put directly below
the fixture 1-2ft deep, would this amount of light likely suffice? Let
me know if this is ill-advised. SPS TURNING YELLOW 01-01-06 Hello I just bought 2 SPS coral for my 55 gallon reef with 260 watts power compact ( about 5 watts per gallon) a canister filter, protein skimmer,2 power heads, and a heater, about 30 lbs live rock, 40 lbs live sand. Now for the fish I have a yellow tang, maroon clown, mandarin goby, and bullet goby. My corals are a finger leather, yellow polyps, 2 mushroom rocks, Ricordea, open brain, cabbage coral bubble coral , 2 SPS on the same rock, and star polyps. My inverts are a sponge, emerald crab, camel shrimp, coral banded shrimp, t. gigas clam, bubble tip anemone,6 astray snails, and a large turbo snail. Also I have a medians hair algae, Chaeto ,needle algae. My water tested perfect. <Sounds like a very full tank.> My new SPS coral that was a green brown color is now turning yellow. The other day I had to catch a clown fish and I took down the rock work to catch him. Is this because stress did I kill it or is it new symbolic algae because lighting please help I love this coral thanks for the help. Sorry this letter was so long. Please excuse the mis-spelled words I'm 11 years old thanks for the help love your web site. <First, let me thank you for the compliment. As for your question, you may have three situations going on. The fist situation could be chemical warfare in your tank. To remedy this you will need to add carbon to your tank. The carbon will also clear organics from your water making the lights more useful for your coral. The second possibility is that you may be witnessing bleaching. If your coral is bleaching you will need to upgrade your lighting to keep that coral or remove the coral to a friend's tank until you can afford to upgrade your lighting. The final situation you may be witnessing is; the corals may be adjusting to your lights and will actually color up to a more natural color. This situation is usually found more in tanks with very high watt lighting and pristine water conditions. Travis> New SPS Frags... Long Shipping... What To Expect? - 12/31/05 Hi all... <<Hello>> as has been stated by many, you have an awesome site, no fluff, all info. <<Thank you>> I have read much, but not all of the site, haven't been able to find an answer. <<ok>> I just acquired some Acro frags 1 yongei and 2 tortuosa (sp.?). <<Correct>> Thanks to shipping problems they were in transit about 40hrs. <<Uh oh!>> They arrived white, little or no apparent color, no polyps yet. <<Expelled their zooxanthellae...or worse...have complete tissue loss.>> My fears about ammonia in bags and alkalinity of tank water led me to introduce them to the QT tank after temp adjustment. <<Smart>> I'm acclimating lighting using vinyl screen layers. <<Smart again>> On intro to QT tank frags had filaments of slime but no other indications of life. <<Not unexpected...>> Don't expect a miracle here but what if anything should I expect from these frags if water parameters, lighting and flow are optimal, which I think they are. At what point should I give up on them in your opinion. <<Mmm...both species of coral have quite visible polyps, if you don't see any evidence of these after 48 hrs. I think you can assume the worst. You might also try viewing the frags under some magnification (jeweler's loop/magnifying glass) to see if you can determine if there is any flesh on the skeleton.>> This is my first of many cracks at SPS so would like to not overreact. <<You're not overreacting...40 hours in transit/bleached condition is cause for concern.>> Steve |
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