XeniidSysFAQs

FAQs about Xeniid Systems 1

Related Articles: Pulsing Soft Corals, Family Xeniidae,

Xenia Changing Shape And Color Under Different Lighting - 07/04/05 7/5/05 Hello Crew, <<Evening>> I have a question regarding the response of Xenia to different lighting. I have currently 6700K 92CRI fluorescent light bulbs with the xenia placed in the top 6 inches of the tank( I have had it like this for ~5 months). With this lighting the animal is fully extended and a pinkish color active and pulsing. <<OK>> I have tried to add another 2 bulb light fixture with actinics in it. After adding this to the tank the xenia turns dark brown and shrinks down to about half its regular size. If I take the actinics away the xenia returns to fully extended an a pink (normal?) color again. <<Hmmm>> Am I doing something wrong by adding the actinics or is the pink color just starving for light from the 6700K bulbs. <<The light spectrum is not a problem. What I think is happening is your Xenia is suffering from light shock when you add the two extra bulbs. You state the Xenia is located very close to the surface of the water...if you are not acclimating it to the additional lighting you are causing what is known in lay terms as "light shock." The Xenia needs time to adapt to the increase in light (photo activity). You can do this by cutting 6-8 pieces of fiberglass window screen, placing all the pieces on some kind of support (eggcrate) over the Xenia, and removing a piece every three days until all is gone and the coral will be acclimated to the increased in lighting.>> Thanks for your help. Brad <<Regards, Eric R.>> Stressed Xenia? Check for low pH and ALK 1/21/05 Mr. Fenner, <Anthony Calfo in his stead> I have a problem here. I have 2 stalks of pulsing xenia, and as of yesterday they both have flopped there pulsing stalks over and are limp. they are getting a greenish brown color to the hands, and it seems like the hands seem to be bubbling up. Is this normal? <It's hard to say without a picture... just speculating. Do check your pH (needs to be 8.3 minimum) and Alk (towards 12 dKH for Xeniids> It almost looks like the one stalk is ready to split again. I can see the stalk separating. what could be wrong? <if not pH or ALK, perhaps lack of water flow> placed as: middle of rockwork moderate - high flow lights 2x96w PC on a 46gallon parameters: ammonia 0 nitrite 0 nitrate 20 alk 1.9 meq/l ph 8.0 - 8.2 ca 500ppm temp 77 - 78.5 Please help, is my xenia dying? <Yikes! your pH is flat and your ALK likely low too because your Calcium is getting dangerously high (risk of precipitation soon... perhaps crash). Please ease up here mate. Do a large water change to dilute all and then resume with more balanced dosing (as with two part liquid supplements like ESV brand). What's worse is that this pH reading is likely a daytime reading and the level plunges much lower at night - double yikes! At least for Xenia, under 8.0 is scary. Aim for 8.3 by night and slightly higher by day. Kalkwasser dosing can help this. Anthony>

Xenia tank and soft coral identification Hi Bob, Anthony, and the rest of the all-knowing crew! Hope that this finds you well! <Cheers, my friend... I hope you are in good spirit as well> I am sending some pics for you to see. #1in is the tank as it is now -- not sure how long it's been since the leak on the other, (2 months?) but I think it is starting to come along. I am tickled pink with the refugium (the light is on an alternating timer) and would suggest it to anyone. <excellent. Indeed, Reverse Daylight Photosynthesis (RDP) refugia have many merits> There is a second skimmer hanging off the side of it. Can't wait for the coralline algae to start on the glass again . . . sigh. <in due time> #2 is a soft coral I got -- I had ordered a green hairy leather and the piece came in with two distinctly different corals on it. I'm not complaining, but I would like to know what the are! I am assuming the one in the back is the hairy, but what is the one in the front? It reminds me of morels . . . <no pics attached, my dear... please resend> Now, you remember part of the deal to set another tank up during the leak was that my beloved hubby got dibs on my 25? Well, he hasn't set it up yet so I call that an opportunity. <Ha! Staked a claim, eh?> Since it is all retrofitted for reef anyway it would be a shame to use it for freshwater. Before I had various soft corals, mushrooms, and polyps in it. The 25 is taller more than wide, with the eclipse hood running, and a CPR backpack hanging on the side, in tank heater, power compacts added into the hood, which is perfect for low light items but nothing past that. This time I would like to have a xenia species tank, and am looking for pointers! I have read Anthony's section on them in his book, and yours, and was just looking for more direction. <the common Fast-pulse Xenia, Xenia elongata would be very active, hardy and forgiving. A good first choice. The non-pulsing Xeniid, Anthelia glaucum, would also be a fine choice. Very hardy, likes very low light and has very large heads with attractive large pinnules> I want the Xenia to be the focus, so was planning on Xenia only. There will either be no fish, or maybe two -- like a 6 line wrasse and another tiny, unobtrusive fish. Was planning on a sand bottom, although I have to say, the glass bottom is attractive to try . . . I am trying to decide if I would be better piling live rock in there like before, or putting plastic shelves in and then putting the live rock on that? <the tank is small enough to not bother with shelves (keep good water flow easily)... rock on glass or sand will be fine> Also, I had heard on different internet sites that Xenia is susceptible to "crashes" . . . true? <anecdotally with some, but I have only had this experience with Anthelia. My mother colony of Xenia went for over five years without any such hiccup for any reason. I think it is largely due to husbandry. Any fast growing organism has a fast increasing need for ever more nutrients, Thus, you have to be on top of your game with water changes, iodine, etc. (just like with Caulerpa)> I know that Xenia really likes the iodine, I dose my tank daily with 8 drops, which seems to be about right. <excellent (daily dosing)> Seems like there is MUCH more that I need to know, so if you can think of anything, throw it at me! I tried looking at websites and there's really not as much out there as I would like . . . mostly to have to do with propagating. <Xenia is rather simple and hardy once established. Be prepared that all are finicky at first. May not pulse for days or even weeks on arrival> Here is the Xenia I already have, and how it was sold to me. All were tank raised. If you don't agree with the identifications, please let me know! LOL! #3 -- "regular" xenia -- pulses like mad, much stronger than the other two, almost in a twisting manner. Tends to like to "creep" along the rock. #4 -- "Red Sea" xenia -- pulses, but not as strongly as #3. Seems to be almost pink. <if Xenia umbellata, this is one of the most demanding for light if you are to succeed long term> #5 -- "green" xenia -- doesn't seem to pulse except for maybe extremely weakly. Might be my imagination. I can ALMOST convince myself that it is green when it is closed up, otherwise it looks brown. I would like white and pompom xenia, but being in Ohio the supply is limited unless you want to risk trying to ship it. <hmmm... it shouldn't be too hard to find good stock in Ohio. I've traveled most states through aquarium clubs, stores and conferences and Ohio by comparison is not too shabby. Cincinnati is not too shabby (stores, even a trip to the Louisville club), Cleveland is excellent (stores and clubs)... hmmm... Columbus is rather modest. If you can't find anything through local cities and are willing to drive to a Western PA PMASI meeting, I'm sure we could get some frags for you (PMASI is just over the border exit 6 PA turnpike)> Hope this wasn't too long, and that you're having a wonderful hump day! As always, thanks for your help and guidance. Cari <best regards, Anthony>

Xenia tank and soft coral identification <Cari, thanks for the pics... they were out of order with the last message so I have ID them in the sequence you'll see at the bottom here with the auto reply: pic 1: indeed a "green" xenia, AKA Blue or Siler-tip xenia as well. Needs heavy VHO blue actinic light to express good color. Magnificent when it does get it. Very blue/green then. pic 2: whole tank shot pic 3: looks like two branching corals of the same or similar kind. Quite frankly, one or both are Capnella, the "Green Kenyan Tree" coral pic 4: the white stalked xenia is actually one of the Red Sea or Fiji pom-pom varieties (you have it already!). It just doesn't look short and pom-pom like because it has adapted and elongated under weak captive lighting. pic 5: is also a white fast-pulse/pop-pom species. I suspect from its morphology that this colony is placed higher up in the tank than the one in pic 4. Else, it is getting stronger current. best regards, Anthony>

Xenia Questions and Nano Reef Bragging Bob, Knowing your caution regarding nano reefs, I have in past asked you livestock-related questions without mentioning my setup, but since it has done so amazingly well over the last three months, I thought I could brag to you about my pet project. <Glad to hear of your success... Do know of, have even had less than one gallon systems myself... but the vast majority of folks who might try them... would fail... and leave the hobby/interest... You may be aware of the fact that the "average" (mean) marine hobbyist has been "in the life" for less than a year... Where do they go, and why?> If you like, I have a large collection of pictures to share, too. Using an Eclipse System 6, retrofitted with 2 28 watt power compact bulbs, one actinic and one 10K, utilizing a lot of PolyFilter and some Super Aquarium purifier, I have been able to successfully keep a large collection of life in such a small tank. <Hmm, no skimmer?> I have: 1 Ocellaris clown, 2" 1 Lawnmower blenny 3" <In such a small volume? Make sure it gets enough to eat> 1 Fire shrimp 2" 1 Emerald Mithrax crab 1" 4 Scarlet Reef hermits 1/2" 5 Cerith Snails 1/2" 1 Frogspawn - 4 polyps 1 Green Torch frag - 1 polyp 1 White Torch frag - 1 polyp 1 Flower Pot frag - 1 polyp 1 White tipped xenia - 2" 9 Mushrooms - 2 Racemosa, 7 varied (green, red, blue, striped) 1 Halimeda Money plant - 4" 1 Caulerpa Racemosa - 4" 1 Halimeda (growing straight up, instead of as a bush) - 5" <Impressive> My only losses have been - one left handed hermit that crawled out the top, and one red Fromia starfish that was partially devoured alive by ??? (the crabs?), moved to another refugium, where he died shortly thereafter. My question is about the xenia in my tank - back when my frogspawn became infected with some bacterial disease (treated successfully with reduced salinity dip and malachite green), the xenia folded up and stopped pulsing, and seemed to be on the verge of death: polyps disintegrating, discoloration, etc. Now, though, he's on the mend, and new polyps are growing at a startling rate. The odd thing is, though, that they're growing almost like an anthelia mat - right out of his "foot." <This happens... Heteroxenia is poly/dimorphic...> He still has a central stalk, crowned with 15 or so small polyps, but his foot, with which he's attached to the live rock, is growing at least twice that many polyps - small still, but already pulsing. I read somewhere that xenia have the ability to assume different morphologies under different conditions, but can they so radically turn into a polyp "mat"? <Yes, some types, species of the Xeniid family... in fact, this trait is used as a dividing point between genera...> Thanks for any insight you have into my xenia/anthelia colony, and sorry if my enthusiasm for my tank makes this a long read. Josh <No worries, thank you for sharing. Do read over the skimmer and small systems sections on the www.wetwebmedia.com site for others input on how they've modified their Eclipse systems as well. Bob Fenner>

Re: Xenia Questions and Nano Reef Bragging Bob, Thanks for the quick reply! In reading your response, I see I neglected to mention one or two things: no, I have no skimmer for my tank. I just received a Red Sea Prizm HOT skimmer, but after leaving it on for several hours and coming up clean, I decided to move it to a newly-cycling marine tank in the next room. <Good idea... as you and I know (but many browsers may be unaware), substantially up and going reef type systems don't require or use skimmers/skimming> I also forgot to mention my star polyp colony, which is a recent addition, and a fast-growing favorite of mine. I do have one more question for you - what kind of prepared foods could the blenny be induced to eat? <Not much... Atrosalarias and Salarias blennies pretty much consume filamentous algae and associated life (aufwuchs to you Deutschen types)> I originally purchased him with the intention of leaving him in the system for a short time (to control an algal bloom), but I left him in there because he's so ugly that he's cute. What sort of algae-based foods will he take, if any? Or will I have to move him to the planted refugium in my FOWLR tank? Thanks, Josh <Likely the latter. Bob Fenner>

Xenia question Hi Bob, I just purchased a beautiful Xenia and have gathered that these guys are pretty finicky. <Hmm, not really... most Pulsing Corals just have difficulties in being moved... once adjusted, they tend to take off, over a system> The guy at the aquarium store said that all they need is light and nitrate? I understand the light part, but nitrate? <Hmm, well... not photosynthetic, so not really light... yes to some (a few ppm) nitrate (all plants utilize nitrogen in one or more formats... as well as phosphate... And for Xeniids, biominerals, alkalinity, some iodide...> I tried to research this but could only find the contrary. Also, I wanted to know the best way to lower my nitrate levels (they're around 25-30 ppm at the moment, with a goal of 0). <Please see the "Nitrates" section FAQs posted on our website: www.WetWebMedia.com here> Would changing a little water every day (say about 3 gal; I've got a 55 gal aquarium) wise or folly? If not, what's a good way to ease my nitrates down without stressing the corals in the tank? <Better to use/grow marine macrophytes, improve skimming... see the WWM site> I would really appreciate your advice...and my Xenia thanks you ahead of time as well. Filemon <Bob Fenner>

Cespitularia Dear Bob, I want to know how to take care this species, I have tried two times and all failed. <This genus of Pulsing Soft Corals (family Xeniidae) can be a joy, growing vigorously once established... but often is lost as has been your experience... mainly due to its sensitivity to CHANGES in water quality and damage in movement (very common with all Xeniids)> My tank is 55G and the water condition is SG=1.023, pH=8.1, Ca=380, Mg=1350, PO4=<0.03, dKH=10.2 and do 24L water change every week. <Hmm, a couple of things to emphasize here... the importance of maintaining "near seawater conditions" with these animals (particularly for you, a NSW spg of 1.025), and the fact that you should be pre-mixing and storing your water a week or more ahead of use... See the "Seawater" use sections of our site: www.WetWebMedia.com re this> I use one 25W Triton and one Marine-Glo as light source for 12 hour daily, From 11:00am to 10:30pm. My water is from tap water with a tap-water filter. The salt is from Tropic marine. <You might want to have the tap-water filtered water checked by your water district/supplier and/or an independent lab for quality/content... the salt mix is fine. Bob Fenner> Rdgs

Re: Cespitularia] Dear Bob, I in Hong Kong have started the reef aquarium since March 2000. My tank is about 59G (34Lx18Wx22H), no sump with 100lbs live rocks and 3" coral sand substrate and using one 25W Triton, one Marine-Glo and one 9W PC as light source for 12 hour daily, From 11:00am to 10:30pm. <Hmm, not much light...> My water is from tap water with a tap-water filter. The salt is from Tropic Marin. I run Tunze Standard Skimmer 210/2 24x7. <Very nice> Water circulation by Juwel Compact H filter on left side (back) <Very well built tanks> Reverse Undergravel filter fitted with Otto ph2000 on right bottom (back) Otto ph800 for current flow on right top (back) Eden 214 Self-Rotating Power Head (500l/h) for current flow on center top (back) Supplements using : Salifert : Bio Coral, Coral Grower, Trace Soft, Magnesium Powder, Phosphate Eliminator (when need) Two Little Fishes : CombiSan, C-Balance, Performance Iodine, Performance Strontium Kent : Iron I have 20 fishes: 2 Green Chromis (Chromis viridis) from 22-Apr-2000 1 Purple Tang (Zebrasoma xanthurum) from 29-Apr-2000 1 Six Line, Wrasse (Pseudocheilinus hexataenia) from 10-May-2000 1 Bartlett's Fairy Basslet (Mirolabrichthys bartletti) from 22-May-2000 1 Sea Goldie (Pseudanthias squamipinnis) from 24-Jun-2000 4 Orchid Dottyback (Pseudochromis fridmani) from 2-Jul-2000 2 Black footed Clownfish (Amphiprion nigripes) from 31-Jul-2000 1 Flame Angelfish (Centropyge loricula) from 15-Aug-2000 1 Firefish, Purple (Nemateleotris decora) from 29-Aug-2000 1 Flame, Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus jordani) from 24-Sep-2000 1 Gold Neon Goby (Gobiosoma evelynae) from 12-Nov-2000 2 Red Scooter Blenny (Synchiropus stellatus) from 26-Dec-2000, 27-Dec-2000 2 Firefish, Helfrich's (Nemateleotris helfrichi) from 10-Mar-2001 <This is a bunch of fishes!> I have 6 Invertebrates: 1 Ritteri Anemone (Heteractis magnifica) from 8-Mar-2000 2 Cleaner, Shrimp (Lysmata amboinensis) from 12-Mar-2000, 10-May-2000 1 Sea urchin (Echinometra mahtaei) from 17-Jun-2000 1 Giant Clam (Tridacna crocea) from 3-Aug-2000 1 Fire Shrimp (Lysmata debelius) from 3-Sep-2000 Also, I have 21 corals: 1 Disk Anemone, Red (Actinodiscus sp) from 5-Mar-2000, offspring many 1 Green Star Polyps (Briareum stechei) from 5-Mar-2000, offspring 2 piece 1 Fine Grape Coral (Euphyllia paradivisa) from 5-Mar-2000 1 Leather Coral, Green (Sarcophyton cinereum) from 10-Apr-2000, offspring 1 piece 1 Blue Sponge (Halichondria madaepora) from 26-May-2000 2 Mushroom, Green (Rhodactis Sp) from 5-Aug-2000, 3-Sep-2000, offspring 3 piece 1 Turret Coral (Litophyton viscidum) from 10-Aug-2000 1 Cocoworm (Hard Tube), White (Protula magnifica) from 24-Nov-2000 1 Velvet coral (Montipora digitata) from 7-Dec-2000 1 Button Coral, Green (Zoanthus sp) from 15-Dec-2000 1 Clove Polyps, Green at Center (Acrossota sp) from 20-Dec-2000 1 Flowerpot, Green (Goniopora stokesii) from 26-Dec-2000 2 Cocoworm (Hard Tube), Red (Protula magnifica) from 26-Dec-2000, 2-Mar-2001 1 Nepthea Tree Orange (Scleronephthya sp) from 27-Dec-2000 1 Xenia (left after the Cespitularia lost) from 1-Jan-2001 1 Nepthea Tree Pink (Scleronephthya sp) from 7-Jan-2001 1 Orange Tree Sponge () from 2-Mar-2001 1 Orange ball Sponge () from 2-Mar-2001 1 Bubble Coral, Multi-color (Plerogyra sinuosa) from 22-Mar-2001 <Wow! Good record-keeping... but what a lot of life in a fifty nine gallon volume... maybe less gallons just due to so much biomass!> My water condition is SG=1.023 (by Waterlife - Seadrometer) pH=7.85 to 8.06 (by iks - AquaStar Alpha pH Meter) Ca=380, Mg=1350, PO4=<0.03, dKH=10.2 (by Salifert test kit) temp=24-28?C (chiller setting) and do 24L water change every week. You suggest me to increase the SG to 1.025, will it affect the fishes, corals and invertebrates? And should I change to RO water if want to add this species in the tank? <I would raise the spg... slowly... in your case, a thousandth per week... and yes to using RO... But, really, do consider trading out some of your livestock, or at least keeping the corals trimmed back... Or (I know space is at a premium), getting a larger system... or an additional one... for safety's sake> And live in HK, the place is small and keeping 24L premixed salt water for a week is a problem between family member. <I understand> Also, your advise on using the Miracle Mud from EcoSystem. <A very good idea... good concept... am friends with Leng Sy (he lives up North of us in California> Many thanks, CY <Be chatting my friend. Bob Fenner>

Xenia... Another question for ya, just to get another opinion. My father has a 75 gal tank, 2-175W 5500K MH and 2-110W VHOs. Uses RO water, B-ionic, Kalk, and the typical other additives. Does water changed about once every 1-2 weeks, about 10%. He got some pumping xenia about 6-8 mths ago, just a small stalk. Right when we added it it was great, and after a while it had spread all over the place. Then slowly, it began to shrink in size. What was once a 3" high stalk turned into a 1/4" high stalk. At this point it has stopped pumping and is almost non-existent. Recently I took a few of his rocks into my tank, and lo' and behold, it has all come back to superpower status. He has tried everything from changing Iodine additives, to staring using B-ionic, to doing more water changes. Most of the other corals in the tank are great, except a colt coral, which started out strong again but has recently shrank and turned from a brown to a white color. He is running out of idea, and is frustrated because it was once thriving, and has now gone to heck. I know the love iodine, but this is a mix Soft/LPS tank with a few clams and I know overdoing the Iodine would not be enjoyed by all. Any suggestions with the ever moody xenia would be appreciated. Chris <Hmm, most likely the problem is traceable to either a chemical mix/additive problem or a chemical toxin release circumstance... Do you have a way of measuring alkalinity and calcium concentration? Have a feeling the former is too low... Otherwise, the soft corals are "terp"ing (releasing enough terpenoid compounds to toxify) the Xeniids... A few things could be tried for both possibilities... using chemical filtrants, like activated carbon and PolyFilter... Boosting biological filtration... like using a mud/muck filter and Caulerpa... Making larger water changes... the "dilution-solution"... Or maybe just setting up another tank! Bob Fenner>

Re: Xeniid pulsing, health, co-stocking/lighting Hi Bob, Hope this finds you well amidst all the recent chaos. <Yes my friend, thank you> Quick lighting question. Am trying to isolate causes for my xenia not pumping, am thinking it may be lighting. <Hmm, unlikely... as you likely know these soft corals are not photosynthetic> I have a 60 gallon, 20 inch deep tank, with 130 gallons in blue/white pc lighting. I am also keeping a derasa clam, and hope to acquire a toadstool and other leathers as well (no hard corals planned). Is my lighting enough? Is it worth the $300 to upgrade to a 220 pc watt for the animals I hope to keep? <For the other animals yes. Look to alkalinity, biomineral, iodide deficiency, testing, augmentation for your Xeniids though. Bob Fenner> Cheers, Javier

Xenia coral how long does it take for a xenia coral to grow big, at least until it grows a new colony at the base that branches off? <Can be a matter of weeks> Any tips on how to increase growth rate? <Lots of water movement, frequent, small feedings to other livestock... punctuated, weekly addition of vitamins, iodide supplements... addition of a mud-filter, living sump/refugium... > I also have a brown algae problem, and I was wondering if a bicolor blenny would do that job? <Mmm, an Ecsenius species? Please read over our site starting here: http://wetwebmedia.com/algaeconMar.htm Bob Fenner> -Matt

Strontium, Iodine, and Xenia ?'s Hello Bob. You may not remember me but I'm the 17 yr old who asked you about future careers with corals and their inhabitants. <Yes, I frequently see your query/statement... it's posted at the end of my "to be posted images"...> I'm currently in Vanderbilt on a summer program and learning about engineering and very confused about the studies. <Ah, the beginning of enlightenment!> Anyway I was reading through FAMA about a month ago and I came across the article about Strontium. Apparently according to the author of the article can't remember it all too well), strontium may inhibit coral growth. Have you heard or found any evidence to support this? <Yes... makes sense as this alkaline earth element needs to be "in proportion" with others (prominently magnesium, calcium)...> Well that really gave me a scare seeing as how I add Strontium/Molybdenum to my tank weekly, stop that addition. <These supplements are very dilute... not much to worry about here> Also by the way the wrote another article on the potential dangers of Lugol's iodine, saying the concentration of each solution from different manufacturers is different. What is your opinion on this product? <It's a valid source of iodine... can be overdosed/misused as any material can... Should be administered with testing... as all should be.> I'm currently looking for an iodine supplement and had considered the use of Lugol's iodine supplement but came across different manufacturers' price differences and then this article. Now I'm worried. <Don't be... get a test kit, and use one that fits your budget... no trouble here> Last question I've heard and read different requirements on Xenia. I've heard that they need intense lighting and I've heard that they don't. <They (family Xeniidae) don't> Well currently I'm keeping some in 10 gallon under 40 watts of RO fluorescents and they're doing fine. Just curious as to if Xenia really need intense lighting or not. Wow I wrote a lot. I thank you in advance for answering these questions. P.S By the way I know now that I want to do something in the fish and coral fields and definitely not engineering. I'm lost!!! <Again, don't let your feelings about this state cloud your drive and focus to understand. Take all incrementally, a bit, step at a time. Strive to grasp underlying principles; and build on your understanding. Be chatting my friend. Bob Fenner> Thanks again, Eric

Xenia questions Thank you for all your excellent advice to me and others. I've learned so much from reading others questions and your responses. <Ahh, thank goodness for the Internet> I have a 46 gallon tank with 50+ lbs of live rock, live sand, Berlin filter system in a 20 gallon sump. The tank contains 2 clarkii clowns, a pacific long tentacle anemone (I am hoping for babies), a yellow damsel (couldn't catch the little bugger to get rid of him), a brittle star, and some pulsing xenia. My nitrates, nitrites, ammonia, pH, etc are fine, salinity at 1.022, temp tries to stay at around 75, I live in GA so it gets pretty hot and is a battle to keep the temp steady. <You might want to try "reversing" much of the day/light cycle, having the lights on at the cooler parts of the night if this is practical> I don't know my lighting system off the top of my head but it was bought custom made for the anemone and corals if I ever decide I want them. <Good idea, planning> My question is about the xenia. I put them out of the way of the strong current as they looked like they were getting pushed over. They are on top of the rocks near the light. Now they are not opening as much and kinda shrinking down. Don't look healthy. I feed invert food once a week and shut down the filter for about 15-20 min. I also feed the fish 3 -4 times a week with flakes, oyster mixed with Nori and vitamins, or live or frozen brine shrimp. Should I move them into more current? away from the light? <Often such Pulsing Soft Corals don't appreciate being moved... by species, individual colonies some thrive in higher (by aquarium standards) current... I would likely move them back to more brisk water conditions... and do try adding an iodide (often described as iodine) solution to their water about once a week... decidedly positive effect.> Thank you for any info you could give me. Olivia Guthrie <Be chatting my friend. Bob Fenner>

Pulsing Xenia Mr Fenner, I hope my writing to you is not a bother! <No my friend> I think I am too much of a worry wart. :( This afternoon I got my pulsing xenia from FFX. Good size and color but not attached to anything such as rock. I called to ask what to do (had naively assumed it would come with some sort of stable base) and they suggested that I place it on my LR but held down by other smaller pieces of LR to keep it in place until it attaches. So I found a good spot and did just that. It is out and pulsing but I do not like the feel of what I have done by bracing it down. I cannot see if it is settled into place on the LR (will take a few days I'm sure.) <Yes, generally only a few> It looks to be floating above the rock. Should I leave it be and let it attach or do you think it would be better to use some other method to hold it into place. Some sort of band to hold it to a smaller piece of LR? <Leave it be. To relate a pertinent anecdote: a friend of mine used to cut up and re-sell his Xeniids... by splicing them with a water-pik (tm) underwater, letting the bits float about and attach themselves to whatever... and I mean "whatever"...> It looks very healthy and I want to lessen the stress as much as possible. Thank you for any help you can give. <No worries. Bob Fenner>

Out of Power, Pulse During the last hurricane we lost power for about 14 hrs. shortly after , I lost 4 types of xenia including a blue pom pom that I had had for many years. could the low barometric pressure or the loss of water motion be involved? I would appreciate any information on the care of xenia that you could provide including basic info because I might be over looking something that is very simple. thanks doc Sam < Gosh, what a shame. I really like the pulsing soft corals of the family Xeniidae. I suspect that you know more than myself re practical matters re these animals. There could be so many root causes for your losses; I don't believe barometric pressure had much/anything to do with it, but loss of water motion is at least indirectly related. I'd also like to mention low dissolved oxygen and the possibilities of nutrient, stress-chemicals from other reef life... Most of the Xeniids in the world (that I've observed first hand), are found in "open", constant circulating water circumstances. Not in stagnant reef flats, lagoons, etc. Many do positively respond to iodine prep. treatments as you know, and negatively to a dearth of alkaline earth materials. Many people in the west don't purposely feed their Xeniids, but some other places do sprits them occasionally with a water-nutrient basting, sometimes with "aquatic source protein" very finely blended in. At our and other friends intensive coral farming operations, better growth and reproduction (or repair from intentional splitting of colonies) is achieved through NNR systems that incorporate "mud" filtration, and best growth and reproduction by systems incorporating these features PLUS calcium reactors. Don't give up on the Xeniids, Do look around for other more storm-fortunate reef keepers (maybe someone who you graciously gave some animals to) for "local" colonies to restart yours. As you know, these animals ship and acclimate poorly to new conditions. Good luck, Your friend in fish, Bob Fenner>

A merry Christmas (and Xeniid questions) Dear Mr. Fenner. Just wanted to send you a quick e-missive wishing you and yours a very merry Christmas and a wonderful new year. Also the same to everyone else that has been so helpful answering all of my various and sundry posts. <Thank you> I received your book for Christmas :) I am sure that you have heard enough about how wonderful it is :) (It is very helpful) <A great opportunity, blessing to have met up with Mr. James Lawrence... the owner, manager, editor, publisher of Microcosm> Now I can quote page numbers for you. Actually that seems a little obsessive. I have a question about corals. I am looking at buying some pulsing Xenia and the price seems very high. $90.00 for a med sized branch. I have been reading several other posts and, presuming that all is ok that it can spread like wildfire. <Ninety dollars!? This is high. I would "make a deal" for a smaller species/colony (maybe this is considered a rare one)... or look about in your region, trade with an aquarist who "has too much"> My water quality is excellent, all test readings are within their given parameters. Should I see if I can find a smaller/cheaper specimen and wait for it to grow? <Ah! Yes> Also I read that they are not particularly light sensitive. I have 4 watts per gallon, and in the future, when the tank is upgraded am looking at doing VHO metal halides. <No problems with little or bright light with Xeniids> My bubble tip anemone is apparently acting in reverse as it is very full and open at night and half closed during the day. Also If I were to place light sensitive species nearer the top of the tank does this increase the amount of light that they receive? <Yes. Please read over the WetWebMedia.com site re this anemone (Entacmaea quadricolor) and Pulsing Corals. I sense the FAQs there you'll find useful> I got one Mithrax crab as recommended by either yourself or Jason and it is doing a great job clearing off the hair algae. The snails also helped a lot. Everything seems quiet and the tank is progressing nicely. I am just starting to get the urge to start buying corals and was looking for advice re hardy species. <Keep making your lists, checking about for "frag" opportunities.> Ok just a quick hello for today. I look forward to hearing from you soon. <And I to further interchanges. Bob Fenner> Cheers. Julian Hunt

Pumping xenia and pH hi! there, <Buona sera. Antonio> I just got a batch of silver P.X. and it looked great in the stores tank, all out and open, I bought it still with the rock it was on, and when I got home, I put on aquarium happy gloves, let the bag with the P.X. settle in the water for about 20 min.s. an will with the gloves on put the xenia in, near the top of the tank (I even put in new lights, I needed to anyways) <very good handling> and its been about a week and the P.X. isn't anything like it was in the store, its just a single stalk, not even looking like a P.X. is something wrong with it or is it just settling? <Hard to say just yet. see below> will it grow back to full health? <likely... the most common cause of Xenia not pulsing is low pH. Many will not tolerate a pH below 8.3 in the NIGHT (your lowest pH)...and so you should test your pH and hope it is towards 8.6 by day. Then test it fist thing in the morning before the lights turn on. Anything below 8.3 is a very likely cause for the non-pulsatory behavior. Use buffers to raise pH and alkalinity> Here's a list of what I have in the tank, if anything is the reason why, please tell me <do write back and let us know if this helps. Anthony> Fish: 3 Yellow Tangs 1 Fox Face 1 Flame Angel 1 Non spiky Puffer 1 Sand Goby 1 Rock Goby 2 Orange and white clowns 2 PJs Inverts 2 Green Serpent Stars 1 Yellow " " 1 Cleaner Shrimp 1 Urchin 2 Snails 3 Green Sea Stars (?) Blue hermit crabs Corals 2 Pink Bubbles 1 Batch of Green Grass 1 Batch of Blue Mushrooms 1 Batch of Brown Mushrooms 1 Huge Toadstool 1 Colony of orange polyp 6 Leather stem things (All came from one original) 1 Green Brain 2 Feather Dusters 5 Elephant Ear on one rock And of course the Silver Pumping Xenia Please email me back soon. Thank you much Alex

Attempt to re-send a confusing question (Xeniid Health) HI, Bob, sorry for the unintelligible e-mail last night. I had sent in a question asking for a 2nd opinion on something from Eric B. on RC. Steve responded saying he'd like me to cut and paste the original Q&A before really commenting, so I tried but it got too garbled. I'll try again and will try to be concise with my questions after the Q&A. Here goes: related xenia death question I have 2 colonies of pulsing xenia in my 46 gallon; they were doing great until first one , and now the other is starting, to shrivel up and virtually disintegrate. One is clearly dead, and I'm afraid the other is terminal. <A few comments as we go along here. For whatever reasons, apparent causes, if/when I have Pulsing Coral colonies crashing, I move a part of same to other systems ASAP.> The one thing I can possibly attribute this to is a change in my additives. I was using the Kent 2-part supplement with Kent CaCl. My pH was staying at 8.0 and I was having a hard time getting the alk and Ca to proper levels. So after a bunch of posts with Randy on the chem. forum here, I changed to the ESV B-Ionic which is much more alkaline and I needed to increase the volume of additive. The pH, alk, and Ca all responded very well, but I'm afraid I "burned" the Xenia; I add it to the outflow of my Eheim (have no sump); I probably should have added it much more slowly since the volume increased from 10>20 ml/each. Does this sound plausible? <Yes, very> Or more like the mystery death you're referring to? I could add the B-Ionic to the outflow side of my CPR BakPak instead or dilute it with tank water and just add very slowly, I guess. Any ideas much appreciated. I finally have a pH of 8.2-8.3, an alk of 3.3-3.5, and a Ca of 410-430, so I think I'm on track with my supplements and wouldn't want to change them. Sorry for such a long post!!!!Thanks in advance. Alexander, we need much more information about your tank that the type of additives you use. Light, feeding water flow, other corals present, water test results, temperature, salinity, etc. Why are you using an Eheim on a reef tank? Hi, let me fill you in: 46 gallons, up since late Oct., 70 # LR, 60# LS (about 3" deep), 2x96 watt PC's, one 10k and one actinic (?color temp). temp=80, SG=1023-1024, NH4,NO3,NO2 all zero, pH/alk/Ca as in previous post/Corals- two Sarcophytons, one bubble, one Fungia, one Clavularia, one zoanthid, and the two xenias one dead and one really struggling). one open brain. All seem to be doing great except the xenia and one Sarcophyton has remained contracted for several days, approx since the first xenia meltdown and it's also in the Eheim's flow pattern, but the second xenia which is now sick isn't in that current). Water flow is the Eheim (more on that later) 250 gph, a MaxiJet 270 gph, a CPR skimmer-200 gph, and a hang-on magnum just running carbon-250 gph, so almost 1000 gph total. Foods: DT phyto alternating with Coralife Invert Smorgasbord, and small pieces of shrimp for the bubble, brain, and Fungia. When I set up the system I was corresponding with Bob Fenner on e-mail, and since I don't have a sump, and wanted lots of circulation, and thought I might need back-up bio. filtration, he advised going with an Eheim which I always used with Freshwater. I'm aware of possible nitrate producing problems, but have been monitoring for that --so far not a problem. Also, I didn't think I'd be getting so much LR; and wanted some mechanical filtration because I'm fanatic about crystal clear h2o! Only other additive is Kent Tech-Iodine, 2 tsp/wk x 3 weeks, then 1 tsp/week. Critters: 2 false percs, 2 Banggais, 2 emerald crabs, scarlet hermits, cleaner shrimp, feather dusters, assorted snails. I think that covers your questions; thanks for your time and interest. Alexander: Numerous problems, many revolving around set-up. The magnum and Eheim are part - relatively low circulations a second (the gph is lost with the way canister filters and skimmers provide flow). Large biomass for a small tank, and especially set up for three months. Oxygen demand is probably real high with all the bacteria - things might be near death during the night, and this might be a prob with Xenia. Tons of live rock. Can't even imagine how much microbial mass you must have!! All demanding oxygen. Eric, Thanks for the reply, but it sure sounds discouraging! Could you elaborate on the problems you see with the Eheim and Magnum? What would you advise to try to remedy things other than starting over, which I can't even contemplate? Would measuring oxygen levels at different times of day give relevant info? If the total biomass is that excessive because of excess LR, wouldn't one expect some of the other organisms to be having trouble? Should I remove the Eheim and add more powerheads? I'm very confused...did tons of reading and research before the initial set-up and thought I was doing pretty well till the xenia meltdown and now, of course, I'm hoping for that as the diagnosis rather than the larger issues you're pointing out), but I'd appreciate any specific suggestions you might have. Thanks in advance. I'll let the others offer some advice on your set-up and add comments where I see fit. I don't like to recommend one way or the other. Your set-up can work, but I think will ultimately be hard to keep going well without a lot of needless work. The reason for this is that those canister filters, live rock and live sand are all ways to accomplish the same thing...providing substrate for bacterial growth - most of it is aerobic. As are the fish, corals, etc. At night, when there is no photosynthesis happening to keep oxygen levels high, you will see all the animals plus all the aerobic microbes start to suck up oxygen. With all that lie rock, and water flow that mostly runs through devices and isn't really stirring the surface or flushing the surfaces in the tank, you will have thick boundary layers, also populated by aerobic bacteria. This is my best guess on your scenario and my explanation is oversimplified, but it will hopefully let you see what I consider to be the problem. You want to use the animals and skimming to "polish the water", not filter material where it is all broken down into dissolved nutrients, feeds algae, reduces good water flow and ultimately creates demands on a small volume of water. END OF QUOTE, whew...... So, I'd really appreciate your opinion on these many problems with my set-up. I thought everything was going great till the xenia meltdown; all the fish and other inverts seem just fine; a few days ago, on the daily Q&A on WWM, Anthony, I think, advised someone else with a H.O.T Magnum to rinse it frequently "to prevent it from going biological". I don't understand that; is that related to Eric's concerns? <Yes, likely... probably in reference to the canister becoming another (unnecessary) source of enhanced nitrification... an oxygen using massive bacterial bed... You don't want, need more nitrate et al. production...> He didn't reply past the last quote above. Would any of you suggest any specific changes at all in my system? What do you think about my total flow/circulation? <Mmm, waving the magic wand... there are definite changes you could make that would improve the health of your livestock, make the system more trouble-proof... I would gladly make the tank larger for the life you list... add a lighted sump/refugium either alternating the light/dark cycle with the main/display system or leaving the lighting on continuously... and would either trade out/sell the canister filtration or use them with Siporax (fused glass beads) or ceramic material as denitrators... and use larger volume external or submersed pump/s instead.> Thanks in advance for your patience reviewing all this and for any advice you might have. <We'll be chatting. I'll cc Eric.B here as his name is mentioned, his words excerpted. Bob Fenner>

Re: attempt to re-send a confusing question (Xeniids, call/cause for book writing, reading, clubs...) Alexander, Bob forwarded your query to me and for our mutual convenience, I have replied within the body of each of the messages. Anthony Calfo <<Yikes... and I'll respond here as a place-marker to send all off to Buffalo (the FAQs maam, nothing but). Bob F> > HI, Bob, sorry for the unintelligible e-mail last > night. I had sent in a > question asking for a 2nd opinion on something from > Eric B. on RC. Steve > responded saying he'd like me to cut and paste the > original Q&A before > really commenting, so I tried but it got too > garbled. I'll try again and > will try to be concise with my questions after the > Q&A. Here goes: > <Ahh, okay. Will leave this for Anthony... El Rey de > Pulsaros! Bob F> *************** > related xenia death question > I have 2 colonies of pulsing xenia in my 46 gallon; > they were doing great <"doing great" meaning that they established and demonstrated normal pulsatory behavior? And if so how long?> > until first one , and now the other is starting, to > shrivel up and virtually > disintegrate. One is clearly dead, and I'm afraid > the other is terminal. The > one thing I can possibly attribute this to is a > change in my additives. I > was using the Kent 2-part supplement with Kent CaCl. > My pH was staying at > 8.0 <dangerously low for most Xeniids. Actually.. Xenia corals often can be observed to stop pulsing when the pH drops to below 8.3 and that should only happen at night. If you tested your pH when the lights were on at 8.0 (assuming that the test was even accurate and wasn't reading high!) the we can infer that your nighttime pH was below 7.8...that alone will stress/kill many Xeniids. They are notoriously sensitive to low pH.> and I was having a hard time getting the alk and > Ca to proper levels. So > after a bunch of posts with Randy on the chem. forum > here, I changed to the > ESV B-Ionic which is much more alkaline and I needed > to increase the volume > of additive. The pH, alk, and Ca all responded very > well, but I'm afraid I > "burned" the Xenia; <not likely.. in my greenhouse culturing vessels (over 5,000 colonies of Xenia at one point), I would dump a raw slurry of Kalkwasser (measured portions not to raise the tank pH by not more than .1-.2 within hours) in the same fashion that you have described> I add it to the outflow of my > Eheim (have no sump); I > probably should have added it much more slowly since > the volume increased > from 10>20 ml/each. <agreed. always safer> Does this sound plausible? <nope. the low pH from go was a more significant factor> Or > more like the mystery > death you're referring to? I could add the B-Ionic > to the outflow side of my > CPR BakPak instead or dilute it with tank water and > just add very slowly, I > guess. A <the latter will be fine> my ideas much appreciated. I finally have a > pH of 8.2-8.3, an alk of > 3.3-3.5, and a Ca of 410-430, so I think I'm on > track with my supplements > and wouldn't want to change them. Sorry for such a > long post!!!!Thanks in > advance. <other than the low pH, all else is reasonable> > Alexander, we need much more information about your > tank that the type of > additives you use. Light, feeding water flow, other > corals present, water > test results, temperature, salinity, etc. Why are you > using an Eheim on a > reef tank? > Hi, let me fill you in: 46 gallons, up since late > Oct., 70 # LR, 60# LS > (about 3" deep), <please maintain sand at more than three inches deep for denitrification> 2x96 watt PC's, one 10k and one > actinic (?color temp). > temp=80, SG=1023-1024, NH4,NO3,NO2 all zero, > pH/alk/Ca as in previous > post/Corals- two Sarcophytons, one bubble, one > Fungia, one Clavularia, one > zoanthid, and the two xenias one dead and one > really struggling). one open > brain. All seem to be doing great except the xenia > and one Sarcophyton has > remained contracted for several days, approx since > the first xenia > meltdown and it's also in the Eheim's flow pattern, > but the second xenia > which is now sick isn't in that current). Water flow > is the Eheim (more on > that later) 250 gph, a MaxiJet 270 gph, a CPR > skimmer-200 gph, and a hang-on > magnum just running carbon-250 gph, so almost 1000 > gph total. <not exactly as dynamic, though, as a 1000 gph dedicated return pump by which the standard is measured> Foods: DT > phyto <a fine food supplement but nothing you have eats it. The xenia and Clavularia are nearly autotrophic and have no physical mechanism for capturing/digesting phyto prey...they feed largely by absorption and the products of their symbionts. The Bubble coral and Fungia are dedicated zooplankton feeders... both will die within 18 months if not fed meaty foods weekly. The zoanthid and Sarcos feeding on phyto is marginal at best. Unless you keep Neptheids or gorgonians, for example, ease up on the phyto substitutes and focus on zooplankton (from a refugium or from culture...baby brine, rotifers, etc) alternating with Coralife Invert Smorgasbord, <easily pollutes a system> > and small pieces of > shrimp for the bubble, brain, and Fungia. <very good> > When I set up the system I was corresponding with > Bob Fenner on e-mail, and > since I don't have a sump, and wanted lots of > circulation, and thought I > might need back-up bio. filtration, he advised going > with an Eheim which I > always used with Freshwater. I'm aware of possible > nitrate producing > problems, but have been monitoring for that --so far > not a problem. Also, I > didn't think I'd be getting so much LR; and wanted > some mechanical > filtration because I'm fanatic about crystal clear > h2o! > Only other additive is Kent Tech-Iodine, 2 tsp/wk x > 3 weeks, then 1 > tsp/week. > Critters: 2 false percs, 2 Banggais, 2 emerald > crabs, scarlet hermits, > cleaner shrimp, feather dusters, assorted snails. > I think that covers your questions; thanks for your > time and interest. <best of luck to you in your endeavors. Anthony>

Pulsating Xenia no longer pulsing Bob, <Xeniid farmer and enthusiast, Anthony Calfo in your service> I had purchased a pulsating Xenia frag about 6 months ago. About 3 months ago I noticed they stopped pulsating but they continue to grow like weeds. <two most common causes are declining pH (you will want to always be above 8.3 at all times...including night... otherwise, many Xeniid pulsatory behaviors stop cold. Are you around 8.6 by day? No lower than 8.6 at night? Another common cause for abrupt cessation is an increase in water flow (increased, cleaned, or directionally changed sources?)> I have a 50gal reef, 2 yrs old, w/3-4" sand (all live now), about 20lbs live rock (35 total), with an overflow skimmer going into a 10gal refugium w/return to a U/W spray bar, UV sterilizer, and surface return. I also have a Berlin Classic P/S powered by a Dolphin Tankmaster 800. I have been performing about a 10-15 gal water change using a tap water filter cartridge, every other week. My nitrates continue to be high around 30-40. <not that big of a deal in this case> Alkalinity is 10dkH, Calcium is 350-400, Magnesium is 900, Phosphates are .05-.1, Temp is 80 w/salinity of 1.023. I also have 1 Yellow Tang, 1 Maroon Clown, 1 Blue Damsel, 1 Hippo Tang, a few Scarlet hermits, 2 Emerald Green Crabs, 5 Trochus snails, and 1 Stripped sand shifting star w/Gammarus shrimp and other creatures in the refugium. Corals include Red & Green Open Brain, yellow polyps, frilly mushrooms, green striped mushroom, metallic mushroom, Ricordea, toadstool leather, brown polyps, green polyps, candy cane, and 2 bubble corals. <excluding the Caulastrea (Candy coral) you have a dominating collection of some of the most noxious and aggressive (chemical allelopathy) animals in the trade. This could also be contributing to the inhibition of the Xeniids> With each water change I usually add trace elements, Iodine (need test kit), <a small daily dose is better than a weekly dose of Iodine for Xeniids... the efficacy of iodine supplements in tank is only a matter of hours. Weekly doses will not support Xeniids> Strontium/Molybdenum (need test kit), and Baking Soda (2tsp) with each water change. I have been guilty of adding some chemicals w/o testing, but it is done sparingly. I would add that the shafts of the xenia are noticeably elongated compared to when they were pulsating. All other corals are fully opened and doing extremely well including the fish. I realize I need to somehow control the high nitrates... is this the problem or is there something missing? Please let me know your thoughts. Thanks in advance. <do check out your pH (deep night and mid day readings to be sure)... this is the most common problem. Kindly, Anthony> Glenn Koenig

Pulsing Xenia Is there any secret to getting pulsing Xenia to grow? I have 1000 watts of lighting in my 125. Great water quality. PH is 8.3-8.5 and calc and alk ok 425 of 9dkh. The issue is current. I have a wavemaker and it is on randomly for between 1 and 10 minutes and off randomly for the same. Is there any pattern that Xenia will grow more rapidly in? Thanks and any help is greatly appreciated. <All of this sounds good. Regular additions of iodine would be helpful, small amounts daily is better than larger amounts weekly. Also, Xenia are known to feed through absorption, so feedings your tank and increasing nutrients could be helpful. -Steven Pro>

Pulsing Xenia Hello, I purchased a good sized pulsing Xenia this past Saturday. It is on a piece of rock, and there are three good sized stalks attached to the rock. All of the Xenia in the tank were pulsing when I made the purchase. I have made an observation. When water circulation is low, they pulse. At one LFS (not the one I made the purchase from) I noticed that Xenia in one tank were pulsing and in another tank they weren't. When I commented to one of the sales clerks, he promptly placed his thumb over that water return in the tank where the Xenia were not pulsing. They started to pulse almost immediately. He held his thumb over the return for about 15 seconds, then let go. When he let go, the pulsing behavior stopped. The Xenia I purchased were pulsing when I obtained them, but have never pulsed in my tank. I have them fairly high in the water column on top of a piece of rock. They are clearly in the path of the Hagen 402 powerhead, but are a good 30+ inches from it. The Xenia are briskly moved by the water flow from the powerhead. I have read that they like good water flow, but I am starting to wonder... <Your observation is correct. I have two species of Xenia in my tank and neither will pulse when being moved about by the circulation.> In going through the archives, the 'big' issue is ph. I currently have the ph at 8.6 (daytime). ph was raised slowly by adding 0.5 teaspoons of straight sodium bicarbonate several times per day to the sump. Ammonia / Nitrite / Nitrate all 0 ppm. Temp is somewhat warm at 82-83 by day, and about 80-81 by night. <Not bad.> Carbonate hardness, however, is an astounding 21 (tested two days ago). <Yes, astounding. Several larger water changes will help correct this imbalance.> Lighting is a JBJ Formosa Deluxe 4x65 watt (2x 10K + 2x 7100) plus a second hood with one 40W Coralife 6500k. Total 300 watts on a standard 75 gallon tank (20 inches deep, but the Xenia are about 10 inches from the surface). <Seems good.> I add 4 ml of SeaChem Reef Iodide daily straight to the tank. I add 2 ml in the morning, 1 ml when I get home from work, and 1 ml around 10:00 pm. I also have SeaChem Reef Plus, but have temporarily stopped dosing it (exact same dosage used as with the Iodide) because of persistent algae problems. <If my memory serves me, Reef Plus is Iodide with added vitamins and would not be needed in conjunction with straight Iodide. 4ml seems like a lot to me, but I would go with the manufacture's directions as long as you are not getting accelerated diatom growths, often the first sign of Iodide over usage.> Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. If you require additional info, please let me know. Sincerely, Mark Schwartz

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